Nice work and a nice step by step helpful video. Using portland in the bond and mix is helpful in the NE USA where cold and water/snow/ice are an issue. Smart move to mask the siding.
Boy. This is a back breaking job. I am in the middle of a job like that myself too.Great job through. If you had a little bit more patience to put a horizontal painting tape or masking paper you could get a nice straight line but altogether 1000 times better than before. That’s what counts
I just did a job exactly like this on an interior wall. Such back-breaking work, but you save thousands of dollars doing it yourself instead of hiring a contractor.
A pointer would be to remove all the old parging so that you didn't build up the wall too much. Also clean off the brick with a sponge. Decent job though.
you need to dig canal around foundation.deep .it depents from how deep is concrete foundation,usualy min 80 cm,then put membran on foundation to stop water coming to foundation ,them put river stones to canal because this is gonna hapen again,a you will haveto repair it again problem is water underground making foundation wet
How about the curing process for the cement? Cover with a plastic sheet and mist it/keep it damp for 3 days? The prep work to clean the wall is the worst part, isn't it?
Thanks for watching Lucas. Actually i did not cover it, i just misted it for a few hours while it was curing. You should mist it more or cover it up if it is in direct sunlight as that will dry the outside up faster. The prep work is always the worst.
Thanks for the video. I really have to do this for my house but am still kind of intimidated if I mess up... do you have any more tips or tricks for this before I try it? Could I try it this fall or would it be too cold? Thanks for the video man and any tips would be appreciated!
@@bigjknee thanks for watching, be careful if it gets too cold, you want to make sure the cement can set up. I wouldnt be too intimidated it is relatively cheap to do yourself but just labour intensive. Preparation is the most important part so clean the old surface really well and chip off the loose bits. Use the cement glue for better adhesion as well. Good luck
Hi i wondering what foam did you use to fill the hole? And do i need to wait on summer time instead of the fall.? Because i got a hole innit like in your video
Thanks for watching Peter, any spray foam will work, mine was cheap, I used the one for windows and doors. You might need to place some hardware cloth in the hole first other wise the foam will go all the way down to the bottom of your basement. Don’t do it if it’s wet and cold the cement will never cure
If you take off the parging and you have some holes in your brick like you did, Aren’t you concerned about getting water into the basement when you washed it down with the hose?
I’ve got to do the same thing and I got a inside wall that needs this done also. So how’s it holding up ? I live in oregon where we seem to get more rain than sunshine so I’m curious how this would hold up over a period of time ?.
Great this is good to know since I’ll be doing this myself and only want to do it once lol I’ll be doing this on the outside but I also have a basement wall to do and that’s my main concern because I’ve got to remove the old stuff to hopefully find some solid cement to build the wall back up and since I don’t do cement it’s scary to me lol
It seems to be holding up well, so far no cracks. On the other end of the house I did fill the voids with 3/4 crush and some mix. I think the parging mix traditionally adheres to rigid foam around basement foundations. Stucco holds up well too against foam. Thanks for watching
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking The repair doesn't have any structural strength when backed by foam. It's also going to perform different thermally than the rest of the repaired areas. Visually it's a nice repair, but you should reconsider the use of foam.
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking Three options: either knock out the front half of the damaged CMU and fill the half void with a partition block, or knock out the damaged portion and replace it with concrete brick, or fill the cells with grout. You'd think it would be quicker to fill the cells with grout, but it usually ends up being a lot of grout to mix up. So the go-to move should be the use of partition block or concrete brick. If you have a very long run of a course or two of damaged CMU to repair, then stagger it in thirds and don't hog out more than two CMU's wide at a time.
Nice job. You learned me something today. :) Did you have any issues with cracking? I have essentially the same thing going on with my foundation. Thanks for the upload. :)
You have some pretty deep holes in part of the stem wall. I don't think you addressed the underlying problem. Once the stem wall starts spalling, the cause is from moisture getting to the rebar. Once the rebar starts oxidizing, it eventually will expand up to 5X its diameter or 2-2.5 inches which causes the stem wall to spall. Nice job, but you'll probably be back in 5-10 years doing it over again.
Next time press green tape into the brick to give uou a straight line and clean line to keep the page mix off the brick. Use a spong and rub in a circular motion for finish coat. Add some concrete adhesive to the fill coat prior to finish coat of parging for strength. Other than that,good job !
I apply the green painter's tape, pressed firmly to the bottom row of brick and then apply a strip of duct tape over the green tape. The duct tape provides a durable protection from the mud and trowel nicks and with the painter's tape under it, it pulls off at the end with no glue residue left behind on the brick and a clean straight line.
My friend I am not knocking your work I’m a fourth generation Mason with 33 years experience just a little more advice for your viewers A repair that thick I would’ve definitely nailed up wire lath and did the repair in three different coats but one scratch coat second coat gets scratched third coat is smooth flat either sponged or brushed again just my way I was taughtOverall nice job
There is all kinds of different concrete walls that will need to be parched or stucco or repair due to crumbling I agree never need to put wire lath on a fresh poured concrete foundation wall or retaining wall especially with has a brick face pattern and the concrete floor panels but if you look on UA-cam under crumbling foundations I did a repair of a whole foundation for a lady where she had weeds trees everything growing out of her concrete basement walls that were 100 years old whoever mixed and poured it 100 years ago had Harley no semen at all mainly all sand in River rock so that situation I had to pull wire lath because the concrete was crumbling of the. The only thing that held it together wire lath £.16 cut nails and she went for the better job I use the Ardex concrete patch and it worked great that was 15 years ago not a hairline crack in the whole foundation if you want to look at it today two different situation with concrete walls even on smooth pour concrete walls no you only one that never hurts to use a latex bonding agent spray it on the wall where we got left mix a little bit in each bag of mud don’t put in your 5 gallon bucket of water whatever you got left out a gallon of bonding agent isn’t expensive and it never hurts to do the extra step
How many generations are you btother??? You never use wire. I'm from a long line of master stone masons from itaily. He fine with what he has done. He does want to mix it to a peanut butter consistency, but that depends on temperature. He is also doing a nice job of not adding the adhesive to the mix, not to mention he is diluting it. A little goes a long way. I'd abuse using a. Sand grit rubber float with a back hand motion with a tad of water to pull through some sand if you are pitching it. Kudos my friend!
cam eout ok, itll hold up for sure, the finish wasn't so pretty i would've went with a float finish that looks like a brush/broom finish, but regardless no awards trying to be won here. good job.
@@Danny-ju2ip depends what material you use if you put in anything to slow it down . On a hot day rapidset moray can be applied and then floated minutes after . Where you located?
Scoring of each filling layer can also help with adhesion of the next layer. Good video for helping others tackle their foundation repairs.
Thank you for sharing you experience. Brief and to the point. I followed your steps and my foundation wall looks great 🎉
Nice work and a nice step by step helpful video.
Using portland in the bond and mix is helpful in the NE USA where
cold and water/snow/ice are an issue.
Smart move to mask the siding.
You can also put a little of that white bonding fluid right in the parge mix works great
also you can use a wet grout sponge to finish , with swirls and a gentle touch you can get a really nice even finish
This is so helpful You explained very well
Boy. This is a back breaking job. I am in the middle of a job like that myself too.Great job through. If you had a little bit more patience to put a horizontal painting tape or masking paper you could get a nice straight line but altogether 1000 times better than before. That’s what counts
Nice job, man.
Helpful. Looks great,
Nice job, and thanks for sharing. Could you use fiber glass mesh tape to prevent future cracking or would this be unnecessary?
Thanks for making this video
I just did a job exactly like this on an interior wall. Such back-breaking work, but you save thousands of dollars doing it yourself instead of hiring a contractor.
Facts I have the same problem on my house it's 100 years old in Pennsylvania idk how to start I'm a rookie 😐 😅
Looks good. I have to do it to mine also.
A pointer would be to remove all the old parging so that you didn't build up the wall too much. Also clean off the brick with a sponge. Decent job though.
I have a front porch that has bricks that are falling off. I would like to parge it as well. Do you have any recommendation? Thanks
Add a nice acrylic stone coating and it will hide any imperfections.
What do you do if you can't dig a trench? We have a concrete sidewalk along the side of our home that meets the cement of the existing parge.
Is it the same process for a block chimney for a furnace?
you need to dig canal around foundation.deep .it depents from how deep is concrete foundation,usualy min 80 cm,then put membran on foundation to stop water coming to foundation ,them put river stones to canal
because this is gonna hapen again,a you will haveto repair it again
problem is water underground making foundation wet
Mine also appears to be pulling out some of the block with the failed parge. Is there anything else i should do to repair that first?
Cool video very helpful ....f@%$ng Rona LOL!!
I enjoyed that
I am doing my first parge repair. Not near as bad as this. Mine is all well above ground. I've already done the knock and pry work...lol
Don’t forward or skip the scraping it’s so satisfying watching it come off and chip away. And washing and scrubbing
Is this not a structural concern with that much concrete missing? Also why did it chip in the first place?
What did you spray fill the holes with ?
Just curious, any special spray foam that you used to fill the holes ? Thank you for all the tips
thanks for watching, the cheapest spray foam I could find
What brand of mortor is best
Can I just use parging cement?
It's better than it was
How about the curing process for the cement? Cover with a plastic sheet and mist it/keep it damp for 3 days? The prep work to clean the wall is the worst part, isn't it?
Thanks for watching Lucas. Actually i did not cover it, i just misted it for a few hours while it was curing. You should mist it more or cover it up if it is in direct sunlight as that will dry the outside up faster. The prep work is always the worst.
Thanks for the video. I really have to do this for my house but am still kind of intimidated if I mess up... do you have any more tips or tricks for this before I try it? Could I try it this fall or would it be too cold? Thanks for the video man and any tips would be appreciated!
@@bigjknee thanks for watching, be careful if it gets too cold, you want to make sure the cement can set up. I wouldnt be too intimidated it is relatively cheap to do yourself but just labour intensive. Preparation is the most important part so clean the old surface really well and chip off the loose bits. Use the cement glue for better adhesion as well. Good luck
Robinson Custom Fab and Woodworking right on, thank you!
Would it be stronger or better to fill the cinderblock holes with concrete instead of foam?
YES!
Use Portland and water natural bonding agent
You really boogered up those bricks by the end. 😞
Boogered up 😂😂😂
Hi i wondering what foam did you use to fill the hole? And do i need to wait on summer time instead of the fall.? Because i got a hole innit like in your video
Thanks for watching Peter, any spray foam will work, mine was cheap, I used the one for windows and doors. You might need to place some hardware cloth in the hole first other wise the foam will go all the way down to the bottom of your basement. Don’t do it if it’s wet and cold the cement will never cure
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworkingIf it's a foundation block, is there anything else that should be done?
If you take off the parging and you have some holes in your brick like you did, Aren’t you concerned about getting water into the basement when you washed it down with the hose?
Thanks for watching and no I wasn't that concerned, no water got into the basement
I’ve got to do the same thing and I got a inside wall that needs this done also. So how’s it holding up ? I live in oregon where we seem to get more rain than sunshine so I’m curious how this would hold up over a period of time ?.
2 winters now and holding up fine
Great this is good to know since I’ll be doing this myself and only want to do it once lol I’ll be doing this on the outside but I also have a basement wall to do and that’s my main concern because I’ve got to remove the old stuff to hopefully find some solid cement to build the wall back up and since I don’t do cement it’s scary to me lol
How long did you wait between coats?
thanks for watching, i waited overnight
I was on board until you filled the busted block with foam.
How will the mortar adhere to foam.
Why not mix up some stiff sakcrete?
It seems to be holding up well, so far no cracks. On the other end of the house I did fill the voids with 3/4 crush and some mix. I think the parging mix traditionally adheres to rigid foam around basement foundations. Stucco holds up well too against foam. Thanks for watching
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking The repair doesn't have any structural strength when backed by foam. It's also going to perform different thermally than the rest of the repaired areas. Visually it's a nice repair, but you should reconsider the use of foam.
@@Loonypapa thanks for watching. what would you do?
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking Three options: either knock out the front half of the damaged CMU and fill the half void with a partition block, or knock out the damaged portion and replace it with concrete brick, or fill the cells with grout. You'd think it would be quicker to fill the cells with grout, but it usually ends up being a lot of grout to mix up. So the go-to move should be the use of partition block or concrete brick. If you have a very long run of a course or two of damaged CMU to repair, then stagger it in thirds and don't hog out more than two CMU's wide at a time.
Nice job. You learned me something today. :)
Did you have any issues with cracking? I have essentially the same thing going on with my foundation. Thanks for the upload. :)
thanks for watching, so far no issues with cracking
if you've got splitting or cracking in "problem areas" you should use a wire or fiberglass mesh in between coats to add rigidity.
You didn’t cover it with plastic sheeting to cure? It’s supposed to be covered and kept in a humid environment for 3 days.
Thanks for watching, I sprayed water on it over the course of the night. 2 years later its still holding up, I am not a professional.
Where is Mike Haduck when you need him?
Off screwing up someone else's foundation.
You have some pretty deep holes in part of the stem wall. I don't think you addressed the underlying problem. Once the stem wall starts spalling, the cause is from moisture getting to the rebar. Once the rebar starts oxidizing, it eventually will expand up to 5X its diameter or 2-2.5 inches which causes the stem wall to spall. Nice job, but you'll probably be back in 5-10 years doing it over again.
would it help to put a mesh fabric?
Pretty easy that stuff off with no effort.....bonding agent not needed (doesn't hurt) if surface is clean, porus and wet
Was told it is hard to parge a poured basement. Any ideas?
I think I would follow the same procedure as the video, make sure its clean and you have a bonding agent
Call a mason
Next time press green tape into the brick to give uou a straight line and clean line to keep the page mix off the brick.
Use a spong and rub in a circular motion for finish coat.
Add some concrete adhesive to the fill coat prior to finish coat of parging for strength.
Other than that,good job !
thanks for watching and thanks for the tips
I apply the green painter's tape, pressed firmly to the bottom row of brick and then apply a strip of duct tape over the green tape. The duct tape provides a durable protection from the mud and trowel nicks and with the painter's tape under it, it pulls off at the end with no glue residue left behind on the brick and a clean straight line.
5:59 "'uckin' Rona." (not referring to COVID) lol
Why not use cementall?
Sets up too quickly. I've used it, and not parging friendly unless doing a small area.
Anyone know what he filled the deep holes with?
Could use hydraulic cement
@@johnnywadd7960 thank you
Best parging video on the youtube
thanks for watching !
Then you have not heard of Kirk Giordano plastering videos, he is the master!
@@theloneviking9145 That's the one guy I've seen who doesn't scrimp on a repair. He's the Norm Abrams of stucco and parging.
“Fuckin RONA”
haha i cant believe you heard that
My friend I am not knocking your work I’m a fourth generation Mason with 33 years experience just a little more advice for your viewers A repair that thick I would’ve definitely nailed up wire lath and did the repair in three different coats but one scratch coat second coat gets scratched third coat is smooth flat either sponged or brushed again just my way I was taughtOverall nice job
Never use wire on concrete , never , ever !!!!!
So what’s the right answer. Why no lath with concrete ?
There is all kinds of different concrete walls that will need to be parched or stucco or repair due to crumbling I agree never need to put wire lath on a fresh poured concrete foundation wall or retaining wall especially with has a brick face pattern and the concrete floor panels but if you look on UA-cam under crumbling foundations I did a repair of a whole foundation for a lady where she had weeds trees everything growing out of her concrete basement walls that were 100 years old whoever mixed and poured it 100 years ago had Harley no semen at all mainly all sand in River rock so that situation I had to pull wire lath because the concrete was crumbling of the. The only thing that held it together wire lath £.16 cut nails and she went for the better job I use the Ardex concrete patch and it worked great that was 15 years ago not a hairline crack in the whole foundation if you want to look at it today two different situation with concrete walls even on smooth pour concrete walls no you only one that never hurts to use a latex bonding agent spray it on the wall where we got left mix a little bit in each bag of mud don’t put in your 5 gallon bucket of water whatever you got left out a gallon of bonding agent isn’t expensive and it never hurts to do the extra step
How many generations are you btother??? You never use wire. I'm from a long line of master stone masons from itaily. He fine with what he has done. He does want to mix it to a peanut butter consistency, but that depends on temperature. He is also doing a nice job of not adding the adhesive to the mix, not to mention he is diluting it. A little goes a long way. I'd abuse using a. Sand grit rubber float with a back hand motion with a tad of water to pull through some sand if you are pitching it. Kudos my friend!
What is in the parging mix? Portland cement
yes and sand
If you look under concrete Chris Santoro you’ll see a few of my stucco jobs
1 word. "Roller"
Give your trade away youll be a walmart greeter
cam eout ok, itll hold up for sure, the finish wasn't so pretty i would've went with a float finish that looks like a brush/broom finish, but regardless no awards trying to be won here. good job.
What type of float ? Sponge float or steel ? Or rubber ?
@@Danny-ju2ip depends on the finish you're going for, hard rubber float would be ok
@@OffYourBackBJJ OK thanks. One more question how long after you apply the parge should you float ?
@@Danny-ju2ip depends what material you use if you put in anything to slow it down . On a hot day rapidset moray can be applied and then floated minutes after . Where you located?
@@OffYourBackBJJ upstate NY i was going to use Portland and sand mix
Canada lol Ontario lol rona lol ! or Quebec
Lol
I can't understand why all the videos I watched on this. my shit looks so much better than yours LOL
Plastic for the cure
PIG