Just had it pumped out and service guy tried to scam me replacing a perfectly fine concrete baffle which was about to cost me $1,200 +. Thanks for the video, and I’ll share this with others.
Master Plumber here, but not a septic expert. I bought a filtered baffle tee and did not fit because of the disintegrating baffle. Thank you for this video. I now know to break out the baffle to fit the filter on. Learning every day.
Buying an older home that had the septic pumped and a baffle replaced. Now we know what's going on. Thank you very much for this thorough visual and explanation. I'm certain you've helped many many folks with this UA-cam Vlog. 😊
After having nothing but problems with my old concrete tank and about to tackle a new drain field you have also given me an easy how to to fix the scum layer issue. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Had my septic pumped today and the technician was trying to describe this same thing to me. He said my original baffle is gone. Now that I have seen you assemble and install a baffle, I can fix mine.
Thank you! I just completed doing this after my septic man said i needed it. Had to wait a week to get the poly loc thingy in the mail. Tank wasn't close to full in a weeks time. I measured the depth on the congrete baffle to outlet and it was 20". So I made my device that to match that. Have had it pumped every 3-4 years for 20 years with no proplems until concrete baffle fell apart. Once again, Thank you so much!
Thank you so much! Your video is exactly what we needed! My son and I were going to try and "build up" the old broken concrete baffle and I'm so glad I found your video! This will be so easy as we have already removed the entire lid and can get to the 4 inch drain pipe way easier than you were able to in the video. And we can use both hands! LOL. Thanks again for helping us out and saving us a lot of time and probably a lot of frustration.
I agree I've been a plumber for a long time but in a area where we didn't have many septic systems no I live where there are I appreciate your knowledge and showing fitting I've never seen
Thanks for doing this video. This is what I will be doing today…when I bought this house, I knew it had failed the inspection, but was waiting until spring to install a whole new system. I rolled the dice on it not backing up…but came up short. I am hopeful that by installing this…I can buy some time until I get a chance to design and install a new system.
Had my septic tank pumped the other day, and the pvc piece going down had fallen off, and the guy pumping it acted like it wasn't a big deal, happens all the time. Just cover the holes back up. I'm glad I did some research while it's still basically empty
Wonderful. Might be simple to those who know but wonderfully helpful for those who didn't know .... like me. I have the exact same circumstance. Things answered that I was curious about were 1) OK to bust off the old concrete baffle and let it fall into the tank? (Yes) 2) cap the top of the Tee (No) 3) straight Tee or Sanitary (Sanitary 4) I didn't realize there was a wet use PVC glue (there is). thank you again this video - well done and helpful.
I had a friend with a backhoe install a 500 gallon concrete tank for me 45 years ago. I live alone and don't let any grease get in the tank nor water from my clothes washer. I originally put 3 packages of Fleischmsns yeast in the tank. About 10 years ago, I looked in the tank and there was a floating crust about half inch thick and I dragged my bar along the bottom and it felt like there was about 4 or 5 inches of sediment.Added yeast again. Opened the rank recently and the crust and the sediment were gone. There was only black water that was almost clear. Added more yeast. Never had the tank pumped.
thanks for the help... selling my house and theyre telling me my baffle needs replaced . thanks for saving me money and not having to call a company in to do it!!!
Excellent video. I thought about this possibility with my 40 year old concrete tank but didn't think I had enough clearance to install it and my existing pipe needed an extension. Now I feel comfortable going ahead with the project. Thanks!
I'm not sure if it's my baffle or my pipe, but whatever is coming through the rear of my tank has come loose, and water is seeping thought the tank into the ground. Just had my tank pumped a few months ago, but I think I'm going to have to pump it again, and do a repair similar to this, probably even replacing some pipe on the outside. Thanks for the video, and Go Blue!!!
This video is a little off topic but towards the end has a picture that could be helpful for your repair: ua-cam.com/video/SQJ7aDHEW2k/v-deo.html This is definitely a video I will be making soon. Thanks.
We have our 30year old tank pumped every 4 years. Only two adults and a dog are in the house. Our tech mentioned this outlet pipe has seen better days and you can see the cement around it is failing.. So thank you for this and educating us all on it. Not sure I could rely on him do this for us for as well as you did here! He also found two 4-5 foot effluent type logs at the bottom of the tank and I only hope he removed them! My concern is that the 3.5 ft large black drain pipe/riser he install a few years ago was not sealed in any fashion at the tank! The tank is in a wet area where rain drainage occurs above it. And I believe dirt and water from the top of the tank cover and at that riser are getting in it. I am not happy about that short cut and wish I knew better to demand a better product and install. I also remember seeing a soupy slug at the same level as this outlet! Not as clear as I believe it should be. So there was not as much area for gasses to collect Would you have a clue what might cause these harder logs at the bottom of that last tank?
It's hard to say what those could be in the bottom of the tank. Sometime we will find pieces of wood that were used during construction or similar items. If they are just sitting in the bottom of the tank, I would not be concerned. They will not hurt anything as long as they are not disintegrating and ending up out in the drain field.
I have some kind of log at the bottom of my tank. I'm guessing they put that in there to see if you're at the bottom of the tank when pumping out. Just what I always thought.
Hey, excellent video. Thank you. Question: I can't find very much useful information on when using a single compartment septic tank is appropriate and when it's not. My main question is, assuming proper drainage (leach field), and proper plumbing, can a single compartment, 500 gallon septic tank, with a proper baffle like you show here, provide years of trouble free service to a one bedroom cabin? I keep hearing people say that single comparment septic tanks are basically the equivelent of holding/pump tanks, and that you'll have to regularly pump them, much more often than a double compartment tank (such as a 750 gallon double compartment, which is double the cost). I don't want to over-build or over spend.
Excellent video and info, thanks. My tube has been missing a long time could this totally clog the drain field piping after a long time or do they recover well from scum layer draining out???
drain fields can be resilient. The best thing you can do is get the outlet device repaired and be very conscious of your water use. The more you can spread out the usage, the more rest periods the drain field will get and these rest periods are most helpful in drain field recovery.
Great video thank you. So I take it this is a gravity system? So as the tank fills it flows downhill through that output pipe to the drain lines? I recently changes my 2 1/4 HP pump that was put in in 1995 (Myers). It was pumping uphill, about 1000 feet to the drain lines. My first time working on my septic system. I sure did learn a lot, thanks to guys like you posting these how-to videos.
Yes, this was a gravity system. You will find the same set up in pressure systems as well. The tank or tanks before the pump chamber will have outlet devices like this. Thanks!
Very informative! Thank you. Quick question- After showering, our water level rises just below the top of the PVC T-piece, and at times has gone above the T, is this an indicator that we have an issue with the drain field being clogged?
Great video, just subscribed! This morning we discovered that our tank top collapsed. There’s a 2’ x 3’ hole that opened up. Someone is coming over tomorrow to inspect it. Hopefully we don’t have to replace the whole tank.
Cast Iron is a disaster in the older tanks... mine is so restricted I have a crew coming to replace it very soon and run a camera down to the drain field just to see how clear it is..... or not. Thanks for posting.
If the tank is structurally compromised it could need replacing. But if the outlet device is the only thing that is in need of repair, the tank would not need to be replaced.
THANK YOU for posting this. It is EXACTLY what I need to do, except the size. I have clay tile between the tanks, so I have to use 3 inch. Thanks again!!! Now... you just need to lose the hat from "that school up north" !!!
When we bought our home the spectic inspection revealed a broken T connector in the one system (there’s 2 here!) It was gonna cost me around $450 for a new one to be made but he wouldn’t install. Referred me to the guy who pumps out the tank. But now that I understand what he was talking about I might just tackle it myself
Well done. My septic is having issues and I have someone coming to address the field. The pump truck was supposed to come out Thursday then Tuesday and now they won’t make it before the leach field gets addressed. A little frustrating because this needs to be fixed to. Ever fix it full?
I have a concreat tank with what appears to be a plastic or maybe fiberglass half round baffle that clings to the inside of the tank. It is chipping away at it's top edge and begun causing clogs. Is this common and how does this happen? Is the damage from the required 3yr pump-out required in WI? What of the inlet baffle are they not prone to failure?
The outlet was installed at about 5 degrees up from level. In order to have the tee somewhat perpendicular I would like to use a 45 coming off of the extend lock. Do you see any problem here?
No, it is typical for the septic tank to only have one outlet line. The drain field will be made up of several lines that branch out from the outlet line from the septic tank. I would be interested in finding out why, if that is this case that there are multiple outlet lines from your tank. You could try contacting your local health department to see if they have records from when it was installed to see if there are any explanations there.
I'm gonna be checking this on my next pump out. My tank is about 4ft below grade so if I have to do this repair can I do it from inside the tank after the tank has been pumped?
Do not go inside the tank! The gas in the tank will make you unalive and make it very hard to get you out. Get a professional to do that and seriously do not go in the tank.
I replace my inlet and had it pumped kast year. This year I'll be installing a new t and having the outlet lid pumped.. is it possible to just have your pipe 20" ish attached to the t and install within old concrete baffle? Just wondering incase I run into that. So I don't risk cracking tank dropping chunks of concrete 8 feet. Thanks
I made my outlet device just like in your video instructions but when I went to dry fit it onto the outlet pipe i found the outlet pipe to be slightly oval-shaped so the extend & lok would not fit. What do i need to do next?
It depends on what type of tank the filter is installed in. If the filter is installed in a single compartment tank and it is the first tank in the system, it may need to be cleaned every 6 - 12 months to avoid plugging. But in most cases, filters are installed in either the second compartment of the first tank or in a secondary tank. When this is the case, the filter should only need to be cleaned when the tank is cleaned.
Is the pipe you tapped in the plastic piece to concrete or plastic? My Concrete/ ceramic baffle broke off. I’m assuming my pipe is concrete too. Not sure yet. Thanks
Great Video...quick question. When doing the tee do you need to put a cap on the top? Would it not be possible for sludge to overflow into the tee and to the bed? Thanks
You want to keep the top of the tee open for ventilation so it can't create a siphon and flood the drain field. The operating level should be at the bottom of the pipe going through the wall, so unless there is an issue with drainage in the drain field the solid level will not go above the top of the tee.
Very well done! Thank you. BTW, needing to replace my 40 year old tank with field. Would you recommend a tank with or without baffles? Very sandy, well drained soil in Florida.
Would sure like to know where to get the filter that fits that T…..your link doesn’t bring to that. Thx in advance if ya see this and respond! Great Video, I’m literall doing this today Cheers!
My understanding is that the outlet should be 3-4 inches lower than inlet. Allowing waste to come out fall and go to the bottom. Will be a scum layer on top. My outlet has the T just like this keeping waste out which I have a good baffle anyways and not an issue but it’s cocked backwards a lil bit and prolly should be lowered about 3 inches. The water level is at the bottom of my inlet which caused a backup. Is it possible to lower the outlet myself or is this a big expensive project that’s going to cost me? I have the diverted on the outside directing to either 1 or 2 in my leach field. Assuming not an easy task?
Yes, it is best to perform this repair after the tank has been drained. You only need to lower the level in the tank enough to add the extend N Lok and then glue the tee. Typically if you have about an inch or two of room you will be good to go.
@@askthepumperdude Thanks for the reply! DO you know if the outlet pipes generally have enough pitch that I could create a siphon with some hose a couple feet into the pipe. In other words, what's the typical pitch of the outflow pipe? (Which would dictate how far in I need to send the hose to get a siphon)
I would start by having the drain field inspected to find out the exact cause of the slow drainage. If it is caused by a structural issue or poor distribution, adding a bacterial product would not be of much help. If the slow drainage is caused by a biomat build up, adding an aerator could be an option. If you are going to try a product, I would suggest using a high count bacteria or an oxygen based product to encourage aerobic bacteria growth.
No, you wouldn't want to dump anything down directly into the outlet device. It would cause waste to flow directly out to the drain field. If your local health department allows for RV waste to be connected into your septic tank, it would need to be brought in through its on plumbing or connected into the inlet line coming into the tank.
Question, I’m replacing the entire line from the house to the septic with sch 40. The outlet pipe is original cast iron. Is there an adapter like the one you used for cast iron to pvc? Thanks
A 4" rubber furnco connector should do the trick. Its important that you have a square cut on the cast iron coming out of the house so the PVC pipe and the cast iron will meet evenly in the middle of the furnco. This will help to prevent creating a sharp edge where waste could get caught and cause a clog.
Thumbs up on the extended and lock. I had no idea it existed. Question on primer.. I'm not a plumber so I read the directions, if I remember right from the last time I used it, you are supposed to glue the fitting while the primer is still wet, but I seldom see youtube plumbers even bother. How important is this?
I’m not a plumber but do drainfields and tank installations and the primer that we use dries super quick so unless you were super speedy I don’t think you could glue it with wet primer.
You Sir are a natural teacher... every part of this post was clear and understandable... no showboating, no distractions. Very much appreciated.
Exactly what we were going for. Thanks so much!
my thoughts exactly!
yes sir!
I approve of this message.
Thanks so much
Just had it pumped out and service guy tried to scam me replacing a perfectly fine concrete baffle which was about to cost me $1,200 +.
Thanks for the video, and I’ll share this with others.
Master Plumber here, but not a septic expert. I bought a filtered baffle tee and did not fit because of the disintegrating baffle. Thank you for this video. I now know to break out the baffle to fit the filter on. Learning every day.
Buying an older home that had the septic pumped and a baffle replaced. Now we know what's going on. Thank you very much for this thorough visual and explanation. I'm certain you've helped many many folks with this UA-cam Vlog. 😊
Thanks! I appreciate your comment very much!
Super impressed that “one”you installed that Tee with one hand and “two” had perfect camera shots while doing the install. Well done sir!
Im a sewer contractor and very impressed the way you explained the repair of the baffle tee !!!!!
After having nothing but problems with my old concrete tank and about to tackle a new drain field you have also given me an easy how to to fix the scum layer issue. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video. Had my septic pumped today and the technician was trying to describe this same thing to me. He said my original baffle is gone. Now that I have seen you assemble and install a baffle, I can fix mine.
Glad it helped!
I want to if I need a license to fix mine. Cause someone was telling me it could be illegal to do it yourself.
Thank you! I just completed doing this after my septic man said i needed it. Had to wait a week to get the poly loc thingy in the mail. Tank wasn't close to full in a weeks time. I measured the depth on the congrete baffle to outlet and it was 20". So I made my device that to match that. Have had it pumped every 3-4 years for 20 years with no proplems until concrete baffle fell apart. Once again, Thank you so much!
Thank you so much! Your video is exactly what we needed! My son and I were going to try and "build up" the old broken concrete baffle and I'm so glad I found your video! This will be so easy as we have already removed the entire lid and can get to the 4 inch drain pipe way easier than you were able to in the video. And we can use both hands! LOL. Thanks again for helping us out and saving us a lot of time and probably a lot of frustration.
I agree I've been a plumber for a long time but in a area where we didn't have many septic systems no I live where there are I appreciate your knowledge and showing fitting I've never seen
Yes it is a great product. Thanks!
Thanks for doing this video. This is what I will be doing today…when I bought this house, I knew it had failed the inspection, but was waiting until spring to install a whole new system. I rolled the dice on it not backing up…but came up short.
I am hopeful that by installing this…I can buy some time until I get a chance to design and install a new system.
Never thought I would like a septic video.
Never say never! Thanks!
Thank you for sharing. I have never seen an extend a lock. Very interesting and informative.
Thanks Don! Yes the extend n lok is a great help in making this repair. It was a game changer for us when we found it!
Had my septic tank pumped the other day, and the pvc piece going down had fallen off, and the guy pumping it acted like it wasn't a big deal, happens all the time. Just cover the holes back up. I'm glad I did some research while it's still basically empty
Wonderful. Might be simple to those who know but wonderfully helpful for those who didn't know .... like me. I have the exact same circumstance. Things answered that I was curious about were 1) OK to bust off the old concrete baffle and let it fall into the tank? (Yes) 2) cap the top of the Tee (No) 3) straight Tee or Sanitary (Sanitary 4) I didn't realize there was a wet use PVC glue (there is). thank you again this video - well done and helpful.
I had a friend with a backhoe install a 500 gallon concrete tank for me 45 years ago. I live alone and don't let any grease get in the tank nor water from my clothes washer. I originally put 3 packages of Fleischmsns yeast in the tank. About 10 years ago, I looked in the tank and there was a floating crust about half inch thick and I dragged my bar along the bottom and it felt like there was about 4 or 5 inches of sediment.Added yeast again. Opened the rank recently and the crust and the sediment were gone. There was only black water that was almost clear. Added more yeast. Never had the tank pumped.
Had a septic specialist out this morning, your video made this process so understandable, great job, baffle deterioration
Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful!
thanks for the help... selling my house and theyre telling me my baffle needs replaced . thanks for saving me money and not having to call a company in to do it!!!
No problem Brad. Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. I thought about this possibility with my 40 year old concrete tank but didn't think I had enough clearance to install it and my existing pipe needed an extension. Now I feel comfortable going ahead with the project. Thanks!
Awesome! You can do it!
Wow.... Had 2 septic guys tell me the only thing I could do is replace the entire tank... I think this video just saved me 5K
Only $5k? That's a major job.
Thanks for your one handed effort man. You made it look easy. Great info.
Thanks for watching!
Great Video! Super clear, and shows how straightforward this repair can be. Fabulous job, sir.
I'm not sure if it's my baffle or my pipe, but whatever is coming through the rear of my tank has come loose, and water is seeping thought the tank into the ground. Just had my tank pumped a few months ago, but I think I'm going to have to pump it again, and do a repair similar to this, probably even replacing some pipe on the outside. Thanks for the video, and Go Blue!!!
This video is a little off topic but towards the end has a picture that could be helpful for your repair: ua-cam.com/video/SQJ7aDHEW2k/v-deo.html
This is definitely a video I will be making soon. Thanks.
I'm going to be doing this next week and had no idea how to go about it because the outlet pipe was in like yours. Thank you!!!!!
Glad I could help!
Thank you, that was very clear, very helpful and much appreciated. Very well described.
Thanks!
Excellent video. You had a difficult situation with where that tank lid was and what you had to do to fix it but wow you hit it out of the park! 👍
Great informative video. Well done. Now if you could just make a similar video for repairing the inlet baffle that would be awesome!
My body hurts just watching this!! I'm dealing with a septic clog but is no where near this involved! Good job taking this in stride.
We have our 30year old tank pumped every 4 years. Only two adults and a dog are in the house. Our tech mentioned this outlet pipe has seen better days and you can see the cement around it is failing.. So thank you for this and educating us all on it. Not sure I could rely on him do this for us for as well as you did here! He also found two 4-5 foot effluent type logs at the bottom of the tank and I only hope he removed them! My concern is that the 3.5 ft large black drain pipe/riser he install a few years ago was not sealed in any fashion at the tank! The tank is in a wet area where rain drainage occurs above it. And I believe dirt and water from the top of the tank cover and at that riser are getting in it. I am not happy about that short cut and wish I knew better to demand a better product and install. I also remember seeing a soupy slug at the same level as this outlet! Not as clear as I believe it should be. So there was not as much area for gasses to collect
Would you have a clue what might cause these harder logs at the bottom of that last tank?
It's hard to say what those could be in the bottom of the tank. Sometime we will find pieces of wood that were used during construction or similar items. If they are just sitting in the bottom of the tank, I would not be concerned. They will not hurt anything as long as they are not disintegrating and ending up out in the drain field.
I have some kind of log at the bottom of my tank. I'm guessing they put that in there to see if you're at the bottom of the tank when pumping out. Just what I always thought.
Just by chance I found this video a few days after I got my tank pumped out and found some concrete. Now i know what it was from. Thanks
Thank you for posting this! You're like a frickin super hero 😁👍
👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this. Exact same issue on my septic. saved me a lot of $$$
Great to hear!
Hey, excellent video. Thank you. Question: I can't find very much useful information on when using a single compartment septic tank is appropriate and when it's not. My main question is, assuming proper drainage (leach field), and proper plumbing, can a single compartment, 500 gallon septic tank, with a proper baffle like you show here, provide years of trouble free service to a one bedroom cabin? I keep hearing people say that single comparment septic tanks are basically the equivelent of holding/pump tanks, and that you'll have to regularly pump them, much more often than a double compartment tank (such as a 750 gallon double compartment, which is double the cost). I don't want to over-build or over spend.
I love competent people like you!
Excellent video and info, thanks. My tube has been missing a long time could this totally clog the drain field piping after a long time or do they recover well from scum layer draining out???
drain fields can be resilient. The best thing you can do is get the outlet device repaired and be very conscious of your water use. The more you can spread out the usage, the more rest periods the drain field will get and these rest periods are most helpful in drain field recovery.
Very good job and excellent instructions. Thanks!
Absolutely great video very informative and very professionally done this can save a lot of money if it has to happen
Glad you enjoyed it
God bless all you septic tank people for doing the dirty work.
And GO BLUE!
Great video thank you. So I take it this is a gravity system? So as the tank fills it flows downhill through that output pipe to the drain lines? I recently changes my 2 1/4 HP pump that was put in in 1995 (Myers). It was pumping uphill, about 1000 feet to the drain lines. My first time working on my septic system. I sure did learn a lot, thanks to guys like you posting these how-to videos.
Yes, this was a gravity system. You will find the same set up in pressure systems as well. The tank or tanks before the pump chamber will have outlet devices like this. Thanks!
How do you determine the length of the pipe that is submerged into the tank? Great video! Very informative 👏
Thank you! The down pipe should be between 12 - 18 inches.
@@askthepumperdude thanks!
Very informative! Thank you. Quick question- After showering, our water level rises just below the top of the PVC T-piece, and at times has gone above the T, is this an indicator that we have an issue with the drain field being clogged?
Great video, just subscribed! This morning we discovered that our tank top collapsed. There’s a 2’ x 3’ hole that opened up. Someone is coming over tomorrow to inspect it. Hopefully we don’t have to replace the whole tank.
Thanks! Hopefully they will be able to repair the collapsed portion. Depends mostly on the condition of the rest of the tank. Good luck!
Hi from Trinidad great job and the first time i have seen an extend lock
Thanks! The extend n lok is a huge time and effort saver!
Cast Iron is a disaster in the older tanks... mine is so restricted I have a crew coming to replace it very soon and run a camera down to the drain field just to see how clear it is..... or not.
Thanks for posting.
man this is what I need it that'll save me money thank you for your help
i got some people looking at it and they told me that canot be fix they said I have to replace the ta6
If the tank is structurally compromised it could need replacing. But if the outlet device is the only thing that is in need of repair, the tank would not need to be replaced.
exactly the information I was looking for explained clearly thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I really enjoy informative videos like this. Great work.
Thanks so much!
Should you add a filter in that pipe ? Thanks for tne video very helpful ! Oh you answerd it at end of video 😆
We try to cover everything! ;-)
Hello,
Thank You a great video, I have a good understanding of how it works.
Glad it helped!
THANK YOU for posting this. It is EXACTLY what I need to do, except the size. I have clay tile between the tanks, so I have to use 3 inch. Thanks again!!! Now... you just need to lose the hat from "that school up north" !!!
Glad it was helpful. Go Blue!
Fantastic video, thank you so much for making this!
You are very welcome!
When we bought our home the spectic inspection revealed a broken T connector in the one system (there’s 2 here!) It was gonna cost me around $450 for a new one to be made but he wouldn’t install. Referred me to the guy who pumps out the tank. But now that I understand what he was talking about I might just tackle it myself
Well done. My septic is having issues and I have someone coming to address the field. The pump truck was supposed to come out Thursday then Tuesday and now they won’t make it before the leach field gets addressed. A little frustrating because this needs to be fixed to. Ever fix it full?
Need to put that kit on an amazon store ! I need this now i can't wait and i cant find it local !
good video for those of us who u/s whats going on here, thanks for taking the time to make it!! 🤠
this will solve our problem in our septic tank. thanks man. I'm from Philippines.
Great! I'm glad it was helpful.
Excellent demonstration. Exactly what I need to do.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a concreat tank with what appears to be a plastic or maybe fiberglass half round baffle that clings to the inside of the tank. It is chipping away at it's top edge and begun causing clogs. Is this common and how does this happen? Is the damage from the required 3yr pump-out required in WI? What of the inlet baffle are they not prone to failure?
Would it be possible for you to send a picture? That would be helpful. You could email it to jake@djseptic.com. Thanks.
The outlet was installed at about 5 degrees up from level. In order to have the tee somewhat perpendicular I would like to use a 45 coming off of the extend lock. Do you see any problem here?
Thank you for the clear explanation. Is it normal for a septic tank to have more than one exit lines? Ours has a least three.
No, it is typical for the septic tank to only have one outlet line. The drain field will be made up of several lines that branch out from the outlet line from the septic tank. I would be interested in finding out why, if that is this case that there are multiple outlet lines from your tank. You could try contacting your local health department to see if they have records from when it was installed to see if there are any explanations there.
@@askthepumperdude Thanks for answering!
Thank you so much. You did a wonderful job. You’re a great teacher.
I'm gonna be checking this on my next pump out. My tank is about 4ft below grade so if I have to do this repair can I do it from inside the tank after the tank has been pumped?
Do not go inside the tank! The gas in the tank will make you unalive and make it very hard to get you out. Get a professional to do that and seriously do not go in the tank.
I replace my inlet and had it pumped kast year. This year I'll be installing a new t and having the outlet lid pumped.. is it possible to just have your pipe 20" ish attached to the t and install within old concrete baffle? Just wondering incase I run into that. So I don't risk cracking tank dropping chunks of concrete 8 feet. Thanks
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you sir!
You are welcome!
Awesome demonstration!! Thank you!🇺🇸 16:36
Very well presented and explained. THANK YOU!
I made my outlet device just like in your video instructions but when I went to dry fit it onto the outlet pipe i found the outlet pipe to be slightly oval-shaped so the extend & lok would not fit. What do i need to do next?
right on dude. simple, concise to the point demo. I feel confident to replace the baffle that is loose ""tanks" to your video. 👍
do you have problems with the filters now required .do they need cleaning every couple of months ??? great video
It depends on what type of tank the filter is installed in. If the filter is installed in a single compartment tank and it is the first tank in the system, it may need to be cleaned every 6 - 12 months to avoid plugging. But in most cases, filters are installed in either the second compartment of the first tank or in a secondary tank. When this is the case, the filter should only need to be cleaned when the tank is cleaned.
Is the pipe you tapped in the plastic piece to concrete or plastic? My Concrete/ ceramic baffle broke off. I’m assuming my pipe is concrete too. Not sure yet. Thanks
Nice video! All except for the U of M hat 😀....Go Bucks!
Appreciate it! Go Blue!
Great Video...quick question. When doing the tee do you need to put a cap on the top? Would it not be possible for sludge to overflow into the tee and to the bed? Thanks
You want to keep the top of the tee open for ventilation so it can't create a siphon and flood the drain field. The operating level should be at the bottom of the pipe going through the wall, so unless there is an issue with drainage in the drain field the solid level will not go above the top of the tee.
I’m assuming that should also add a cover extension so that you don’t have to dig as far in future
Absolutely! Here's a video for that installation as well! ua-cam.com/video/IWTucklC_xY/v-deo.html
This is very informative. How much does it cost to do this? Had my septic tank pumped and have the same situation. Thank you.
This repair typically runs around $250 - 500.
@@askthepumperdude Thank you. Getting estimates now. Have a great day!
I have the square top lids also one has fallen in the tank where can I buy a riser for a square cover?
Thankyou for the info and great demonstation
Thanks for watching!
Thanks great video greetings from Ireland
Thanks for the video. What's the measurement on the pipe below the tee? 15-20 inches?
For a typical tank you will cut this pipe 12-18 inches in length.
Very well done! Thank you. BTW, needing to replace my 40 year old tank with field. Would you recommend a tank with or without baffles? Very sandy, well drained soil in Florida.
Thanks Man! Great video and solved my problem perfectly! Soooo much appreciated!
Would sure like to know where to get the filter that fits that T…..your link doesn’t bring to that. Thx in advance if ya see this and respond!
Great Video, I’m literall doing this today
Cheers!
My understanding is that the outlet should be 3-4 inches lower than inlet. Allowing waste to come out fall and go to the bottom. Will be a scum layer on top. My outlet has the T just like this keeping waste out which I have a good baffle anyways and not an issue but it’s cocked backwards a lil bit and prolly should be lowered about 3 inches. The water level is at the bottom of my inlet which caused a backup. Is it possible to lower the outlet myself or is this a big expensive project that’s going to cost me? I have the diverted on the outside directing to either 1 or 2 in my leach field. Assuming not an easy task?
Hi Chad, we just posted a video to answer this question. I hope it is helpful! You can find that video here: ua-cam.com/video/vInS4ECLyhE/v-deo.html
IF the tank is still full of effluent, what do you recommend doing? Drain it down some, using a hose into the outlet?
Yes, it is best to perform this repair after the tank has been drained. You only need to lower the level in the tank enough to add the extend N Lok and then glue the tee. Typically if you have about an inch or two of room you will be good to go.
@@askthepumperdude Thanks for the reply! DO you know if the outlet pipes generally have enough pitch that I could create a siphon with some hose a couple feet into the pipe.
In other words, what's the typical pitch of the outflow pipe? (Which would dictate how far in I need to send the hose to get a siphon)
Nice video. How do I know how long the tube goes down in the tank to hit clear water? Are most tanks standard in size?
Another question: My intake also has a baffle. Do I need that baffle?
What a great video. Thank you so much!
You are so welcome!
Very interesting. Thanks. Just wondering if you’ve ever dropped that metal rod onto the tank?
Not yet!
Any suggestions on enzymes that would be put in distribution box for a slow draining field thanks
I would start by having the drain field inspected to find out the exact cause of the slow drainage. If it is caused by a structural issue or poor distribution, adding a bacterial product would not be of much help. If the slow drainage is caused by a biomat build up, adding an aerator could be an option. If you are going to try a product, I would suggest using a high count bacteria or an oxygen based product to encourage aerobic bacteria growth.
How far should the pipe extend into the tank? I'm assuming about halfway since you were referencing the middle clear zone?
The down pipe should be around 12-18 inches from the bottom of the tee.
Would I be able to do that to extend the piece to come above ground level to empty and rv tank into it or would that be a whole different process?
No, you wouldn't want to dump anything down directly into the outlet device. It would cause waste to flow directly out to the drain field. If your local health department allows for RV waste to be connected into your septic tank, it would need to be brought in through its on plumbing or connected into the inlet line coming into the tank.
how often do you have to clean that discharge filter and you have to dig it all up to get to it !!..nice job mate !!
Great video!!!!
Just the issue we are having!
BUT......................arg... Where's the link to the screen filter??
Thank you so much for detail explaining.
Question, I’m replacing the entire line from the house to the septic with sch 40. The outlet pipe is original cast iron. Is there an adapter like the one you used for cast iron to pvc?
Thanks
A 4" rubber furnco connector should do the trick. Its important that you have a square cut on the cast iron coming out of the house so the PVC pipe and the cast iron will meet evenly in the middle of the furnco. This will help to prevent creating a sharp edge where waste could get caught and cause a clog.
@@askthepumperdude thank you sir
Thumbs up on the extended and lock. I had no idea it existed. Question on primer.. I'm not a plumber so I read the directions, if I remember right from the last time I used it, you are supposed to glue the fitting while the primer is still wet, but I seldom see youtube plumbers even bother. How important is this?
I’m not a plumber but do drainfields and tank installations and the primer that we use dries super quick so unless you were super speedy I don’t think you could glue it with wet primer.
Very well done video. Thank you for helping us.
What a great video! Ty for teaching us!
You are so welcome!
Thanks bro, you saved me a fortune.
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Extender into T first, then whole assembly into drain pipe. Work smarter, not harder. 👍
Thank you! Great and simple explanation!
Glad it was helpful!