I managed to fix my stick drift by just replacing the white disc inside the potentiometer without having to solder. I released the tabs and slightly bent the green portion away from the stick body and swapped out the disc. Pushed the green part back in place and it worked like a charm. Fixed three of my controllers this way. Sometimes just using a little IPA on a cotton swab to clean the carbon traces on the green portion works just as well with no parts needed.
@@w3st80yes, just pay attention to the position of the original when you remove it. If the stick doesn’t work when you reassemble then you put it in upside down.
while I appreciate the encouragement that its really quite simple to do, the fact that almost every part of the process where you repair it is in fast forward and the couple of times you "ran into a bit of trouble with one of em" Im going to assume I should just probably go get a new controller
I need this 2 months ago. Since then I have resurrected 2. 1x half pot replace & 1x just by an open clean. Now I am stripping them for parts to make a custom black/blue. I found most cheapos on ebay circa £8 incl p&p have wireless connection issues. Have you tried sourcing & soldering a coaxial, I have lots of power boards but the analog boards are missing SMA and I can't see that well anymore..✌
I haven't tried addressing any connection issues yet, but if I do, I'll be posting about it here :). Also I can't believe I didn't think of the half pot replacement. So simple!
How is this in any way not already known? Or did we just miss the literally THOUSANDS of videos about this horrifyingly bad part decision from both XBOX and Playstation when the far superior hall effect stick has been in existence for years?
It's shocking that they are still being used even in the newly released controllers. I'd hope the hall effect ones start turning up on the next gen of hardware but when you're paying out £400+ for a console it's disappointing that they cheap out on such crucial components
Nice idea just replace the piece rather than the whole part. A simple way to make sure you have the correct stick is touch the plastic with a marker. The part with the mark is the part to pull. What I am looking forward to is easily swappable Hall effect sticks. I know some exist but they have issues at the moment.
any tips with removing then whole joystick module? i've take out several, I've also removed several pots alone, but the plastic bits on the center itself are broken and removing the whole thing is SUPER annoying. The last 2 controllers i tried fixing I'm pretty sure i've shorted/damaged even more. it's extremely hard to get all of the solder out even WITH a desoldering iron, engineers pump, AND desoldering braids. I just gave up after about an hour of trying and swapping between the normal iron and the desoldering iron and used the sharp flat sheers to cut the metal legs off and I must have damaged something somewhere because now both sticks are hard pulling down right KNOWING the left stick was okay and that the right stick was the new one i just put in
All I can say is you're not alone. I replaced a pair of sticks in a dualsense controller with hall sensor sticks and the desoldering process almost drove me to tears. so very, very frustrating, that solder is very difficult to remove. Also had a good solder pump and flux and desoldering braid. The only other thing I would say is to use low temperature solder to make blobs on the solder points to make it easier to remove. I hate desoldering and these stick assemblies are no fun at all to remove.
So stick drift is the absolute worst. Great video. I break an Xbox lb/l1 button every two months and need to purchase a new controller each time. Is there a fix? They just stop clicking and then do then do not respond.
My new series s got this after 3 months of daily use for fortnite. An hour or 2 a day gaming. Replaced the potentiometre insides with a 360 one and worked! Shame on M$. This controller is supposed to be one of the highest quality and hyped to the moon and back
I do really like these controllers, the ergonomic design is great, but they cut corners on some fundamental components which is inexcusable and results in us having to make repairs to near brand new hardware.
@@chrisestates8472 The overall controller could be the best design ever but if they keep using these cheap stick components we will keep getting the same problems unfortunately. The industry needs to move forward and use hall effect sensors as standard. I always say it but Sega were way ahead of their time with the Dreamcast.
@@JoeBleeps for me without the proper tools only 1 mistake would mean a trip to repair centre. I replaced the interior of the potentiometre. No soldering tools.
can these potentiometers you've used work on the Xbox series one pads? the ones that don't have the 3 buttons on the face of controller, previous versions
Yes, in fact I am planning a video about stick drift in general, where I will cover all this. It's the same potentiometers in Xbox one, Xbox Series S/X, PS4, PS5 and the Switch Pro Controller.
@@michaelsanchez4403 around 300-350 should do it. You might get away with just swapping out the middle of the potentiometer if you don't want to solder
@@JoeBleeps yeah it’s a skill I want to learn. Plus my kids tend to rage on thier remotes and have like five of them that have really bad stick drift and I told them I’m not buying anymore controllers.
Really everything is done so that we buy a new controller when we encounter this kind of problem. They mass produce potentiometers as cheaply as possible and of poor quality for rapid wear, knowing full well the number of hours that people spend in front of the console since the explosion in the popularity of this activity. They know that it wears out quickly, they have planned for it as they know that hall effect potentiometers are not more expensive and wear out less quickly just as it would not be difficult to have ones as precise if they had looked into the question of creating their consoles. And where I really think that absolutely EVERYTHING is done to force us to buy a new controller is in the simple fact that if they had put the graphite layer on the moving part of the potentiometer (and that's all feasible, don't tell me that there is no space) rather than the part soldered to the motherboard, there would be no soldering to do and it would be enough to offer only this moving part for sale rather than the whole system. We thank them for also thinking about their wallet rather than the environment with the waste that this simple potentiometer design creates. Controllers in the trash or for the DIY enthusiasts, sticks or complete potentiometers in the trash rather than the single little piece of carbon plastic not to mention the waste of producing all of this to sell it in exchange for this same small piece.
Yes! And with more modern potentiometers and the lack of physical contact in the parts, there would be far less waste altogether. Couple that with how tricky they've made it to open these controllers up and you just know they want you to splash out on a new controller.
Very helpful video... I guess. 😅 No honestly, it is, but I've used countless controllers over the years and never ever had any issues with stick drift whatsoever. Except for one PS4 controller where it was actually okay because I really really really played that left stick to death. That drift was well deserved 😂 So I guess I'm just the most lucky gamer alive or whatever, but if I ever have any issues, your video will provide very helpful advice. Thanks.
I managed to fix my stick drift by just replacing the white disc inside the potentiometer without having to solder. I released the tabs and slightly bent the green portion away from the stick body and swapped out the disc. Pushed the green part back in place and it worked like a charm. Fixed three of my controllers this way. Sometimes just using a little IPA on a cotton swab to clean the carbon traces on the green portion works just as well with no parts needed.
The cleaning is what I've tried in the past, I hadn't thought about just swapping the white parts. Great idea!
This worked for me too but carbon track eventually became too worn out and I had to solder.
do the disc's have to be positioned in a certain way?
@@w3st80yes, just pay attention to the position of the original when you remove it. If the stick doesn’t work when you reassemble then you put it in upside down.
while I appreciate the encouragement that its really quite simple to do, the fact that almost every part of the process where you repair it is in fast forward and the couple of times you "ran into a bit of trouble with one of em" Im going to assume I should just probably go get a new controller
You need a gold medal
Thanks!
I need this 2 months ago. Since then I have resurrected 2. 1x half pot replace & 1x just by an open clean. Now I am stripping them for parts to make a custom black/blue. I found most cheapos on ebay circa £8 incl p&p have wireless connection issues. Have you tried sourcing & soldering a coaxial, I have lots of power boards but the analog boards are missing SMA and I can't see that well anymore..✌
I haven't tried addressing any connection issues yet, but if I do, I'll be posting about it here :). Also I can't believe I didn't think of the half pot replacement. So simple!
subbed anyhow👌@@JoeBleeps
thank you so much!@@facelessvaper
How is this in any way not already known? Or did we just miss the literally THOUSANDS of videos about this horrifyingly bad part decision from both XBOX and Playstation when the far superior hall effect stick has been in existence for years?
It's shocking that they are still being used even in the newly released controllers. I'd hope the hall effect ones start turning up on the next gen of hardware but when you're paying out £400+ for a console it's disappointing that they cheap out on such crucial components
Can I disable the sticks without soldering? I just want to use the controller for fighting games
@@TripleG102 maybe if you just removed the middle of the potentiometer altogether? I haven't tried that
Nice idea just replace the piece rather than the whole part. A simple way to make sure you have the correct stick is touch the plastic with a marker. The part with the mark is the part to pull. What I am looking forward to is easily swappable Hall effect sticks. I know some exist but they have issues at the moment.
Yes ,some issues with calibration I believe. I'll definitely be swapping out the white parts next time I try this fix
any tips with removing then whole joystick module? i've take out several, I've also removed several pots alone, but the plastic bits on the center itself are broken and removing the whole thing is SUPER annoying. The last 2 controllers i tried fixing I'm pretty sure i've shorted/damaged even more. it's extremely hard to get all of the solder out even WITH a desoldering iron, engineers pump, AND desoldering braids. I just gave up after about an hour of trying and swapping between the normal iron and the desoldering iron and used the sharp flat sheers to cut the metal legs off and I must have damaged something somewhere because now both sticks are hard pulling down right KNOWING the left stick was okay and that the right stick was the new one i just put in
All I can say is you're not alone. I replaced a pair of sticks in a dualsense controller with hall sensor sticks and the desoldering process almost drove me to tears. so very, very frustrating, that solder is very difficult to remove. Also had a good solder pump and flux and desoldering braid. The only other thing I would say is to use low temperature solder to make blobs on the solder points to make it easier to remove. I hate desoldering and these stick assemblies are no fun at all to remove.
is there a way to calibrate the new sticks after replacing them as mine is slightly off center after installing new potentiometer
There is! In a recent update they added the ability to calibrate your controller on series s and X in the settings menu
So stick drift is the absolute worst. Great video. I break an Xbox lb/l1 button every two months and need to purchase a new controller each time. Is there a fix? They just stop clicking and then do then do not respond.
Yes, I made a video about it ua-cam.com/video/3jDU18vgGWA/v-deo.htmlsi=HXlB5zYLUQHWxYV-
@@JoeBleeps awesome thank you
I’ve had stick drift like 3 times but have never had this issue
My new series s got this after 3 months of daily use for fortnite. An hour or 2 a day gaming. Replaced the potentiometre insides with a 360 one and worked! Shame on M$. This controller is supposed to be one of the highest quality and hyped to the moon and back
I do really like these controllers, the ergonomic design is great, but they cut corners on some fundamental components which is inexcusable and results in us having to make repairs to near brand new hardware.
@@JoeBleeps its a disgrace considering they marketed it as a controller they spent millions on R&D for it. Unusable after 3 months!
@@chrisestates8472 The overall controller could be the best design ever but if they keep using these cheap stick components we will keep getting the same problems unfortunately. The industry needs to move forward and use hall effect sensors as standard. I always say it but Sega were way ahead of their time with the Dreamcast.
@@JoeBleeps for me without the proper tools only 1 mistake would mean a trip to repair centre. I replaced the interior of the potentiometre. No soldering tools.
@@chrisestates8472 Yes! That's a much better way to do it
can these potentiometers you've used work on the Xbox series one pads? the ones that don't have the 3 buttons on the face of controller, previous versions
Yes, in fact I am planning a video about stick drift in general, where I will cover all this. It's the same potentiometers in Xbox one, Xbox Series S/X, PS4, PS5 and the Switch Pro Controller.
Cheers will definitely be watching that @@JoeBleeps
Can u make a video for how to fix stick drift in a sega genesis controller plz!!!
That's a new one for me! Never experienced any drift with a d pad. Unless I am misunderstanding?
Nice one mate, need to fix my forza controller, I’ll give this a go.
Good luck!
I have the drift on Forza too, gotta try this
I’m trying to do this for the very first time. What temp do I set the sodering iron to?
@@michaelsanchez4403 around 300-350 should do it. You might get away with just swapping out the middle of the potentiometer if you don't want to solder
@@JoeBleeps yeah it’s a skill I want to learn. Plus my kids tend to rage on thier remotes and have like five of them that have really bad stick drift and I told them I’m not buying anymore controllers.
@@michaelsanchez4403 haha yeah you're worth getting good at it then
What size soldier are you using?
Really everything is done so that we buy a new controller when we encounter this kind of problem. They mass produce potentiometers as cheaply as possible and of poor quality for rapid wear, knowing full well the number of hours that people spend in front of the console since the explosion in the popularity of this activity. They know that it wears out quickly, they have planned for it as they know that hall effect potentiometers are not more expensive and wear out less quickly just as it would not be difficult to have ones as precise if they had looked into the question of creating their consoles. And where I really think that absolutely EVERYTHING is done to force us to buy a new controller is in the simple fact that if they had put the graphite layer on the moving part of the potentiometer (and that's all feasible, don't tell me that there is no space) rather than the part soldered to the motherboard, there would be no soldering to do and it would be enough to offer only this moving part for sale rather than the whole system. We thank them for also thinking about their wallet rather than the environment with the waste that this simple potentiometer design creates. Controllers in the trash or for the DIY enthusiasts, sticks or complete potentiometers in the trash rather than the single little piece of carbon plastic not to mention the waste of producing all of this to sell it in exchange for this same small piece.
Yes! And with more modern potentiometers and the lack of physical contact in the parts, there would be far less waste altogether. Couple that with how tricky they've made it to open these controllers up and you just know they want you to splash out on a new controller.
why wont you just take out the metal ring and clean it and the inside ? without soldering
I tried that first of course, but in this case no amount of cleaning would fix it
Very helpful video... I guess. 😅 No honestly, it is, but I've used countless controllers over the years and never ever had any issues with stick drift whatsoever. Except for one PS4 controller where it was actually okay because I really really really played that left stick to death. That drift was well deserved 😂
So I guess I'm just the most lucky gamer alive or whatever, but if I ever have any issues, your video will provide very helpful advice. Thanks.
Very lucky! I hope you never need this video 😁
I've never had stick drift with my controllers but my family members have.