As a courtesy to my mechanic, I always touch up the engine with the foam Cannon and a light pressure wash. He's never said anything about it one way or the other, but having a clean engine bay and engine makes a tough job a little more pleasant.
Each member of my family has a car. That's four. I am the one who keeps the entire engine compartments clean. Periodically I use Purple Blaster solvent spray when the engine is cold. It is water soluble and hoses off easily. Then I use dishwashing liquid on a rag to all the hard-to-get areas. The modern engine is sufficiently impervious to garden hose pressure. I have a 20-year-old Corolla Station-Wagon and the engine is impeccable. Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.
You should only do this if you know your way around the engine bay--not mechanic level or anything, just enough experience to get yourself into trouble. :) You need to check for oil and fluid leaks first. There are a lot of pinhole leaks that are easier to see if it's been several days and the leak has made a big enough mess to track back to the source. If you just like keeping things clean, do the wash after the mechanic is done. There will always be drips and dribbles during standard maintenance. :)
Nice job Kenny. You make it look real easy, though it is not ! Once someone rounded the hex of the alternator long-bolt on a 2013 Yaris, by using a cheap spanner. I had to weld a chisel to another chisel to reach the bolt-head down inside. Eventually it woke up, and then I could thread it out by hand. Of course, I had to get a new bolt. Lots of vehicles pop their main fuse if a jumper cable is connected in reverse. I know too, it may mean disaster for others ! Trinidad & Tobago. West Indies.
Kenny, I look forward to your videos. I am not a mechanic, but I have done tune-ups and carburetor rebuilds on cars I have owned and generators and am pretty capable of figuring out some problems. Your attention to detail and process is stellar. And as a woman, I truly appreciate your inclusiveness towards me. Keep wrenching.
Good Day Ken, I will share an alternator issue. 1997 Ram 1500 blew a whole bunch of fuses. After a lot of monkeying around with test light and vom I couldn't find anything wrong. But as soon as I started the engine they all blew again and I noticed the head lights got very bright just befor the fuse blew. I finally decided to put in all new fuses again and start the engine with my meter hooked up to measure the alternator out voltage. As soon as that 5.2L w/ that tuned intake setup it starts, it rev's up to about 1,500 rpm and just befor it melted every single fuse again, I saw my volt meter show 45 volts. Next try was with the alternator output wire disconnected and it showed the battery voltage and no fuses blew. Next I disconnected the feed wires to the alternator and w/ engine running I checked the voltage at the ends and it read battery voltage. I took the alternator up to Autozone to check it and they said it was good. I was stumped. Then I called a rebuilder and that was when I found out the computer regulates the alternator output. The rebuilder told me to check the rotor winding to see if it was shorted. Instead of taking the alternator all apart, he suggested I use the first generation solid state regulator called a flat pack to supply the alternator voltage. When I did it the lights flickered. They lit up real bright and then dimmed, back and forth like 10 times per second. The voltage was oscillating between 14.5 volts and 30 volts. So what I got out of it was that 140 amp alternator was over voltage because the rotor coil was shorted to ground somewhere far enough into the coil that it didn't get the ground side from the PCM. So the shorted coil was running un regulated. So I opted for an Autozone rebuilt alternator, but I made them check it right out of the box. They told me there was nothing wrong with my old one, they had checked it and didn't want to sell it to me, it would not fix my problem and I'd be just bringing it back. I was thinking I was hoping I didn't need a new PCM. Well, the new alternator worked perfectly putting a stead 14.7 volts on the flat pack setup I had going and no lights flickering. So I connected the feed wires from the PCM and no more flickering and no more fuses blown. The voltage seemed to move around a lot compared to the flat pack, and sometimes it did go as high as 15.5 volts. But everything else looked good. It seemed like a lot of monkeying around, and the Autozone girl really didn't want to sell me that new alternator. My little setup showed me the PCM was OK. In the end, I didn't feel too bad, at least I didn't buy another PCM for no reason. My hats off to the rebuilder for the tip on how to check it, but I never did go back to Autozone to tell the girl it fixed my problem. The next time I was in there she'd left. ben/ michigan
Definitely jumpered backwards. Step father did this to his car. Blew everything. Ignition module, alternator, regulator, etc. The alternator has a diode array that is now shorted out. That blew the fuse block. Once upon a time... You could buy the arrays and regulators at fleet farm.. and rebuild the alternators.. the diode array is a 3 phase rectifier. (6 diodes).
Thanks for always keeping us DIY'ers in mind. Had the scanner long enough to play with it on all 3 of my vehicles. No regrets and It'll pay for itself just by reseting the service alerts in the Wife's Mini.
VW/AUDI, BMW, etc.; the german cars are FAMOUS for these fuse block setups. Not such a PITA in japanese and usdm vehicles. Hybrids are different story. I hate these things... Good show sir. Appreciate you showing the proper way to do things, and not Jerry's way..
The 140 amps is to handle the anti-skid system and/or or traction control system draw when it has to kick in to modulate the brakes. The electric pump is pretty loud when I tried it on ice. I wouldn't try a long term load at that amperage.
@@OldManTinkers Your handle/name says that you "Tinker" ... it's plug and play ... youtube vids regarding it's capabilities is very helpful so you don't really have to swallow the whole cow at once ... through the bi-directional control alone you can gather huge amounts of information .... how to apply that info depends on the system you're working on for instance ... IF you CAN run (whatever you're trying to run) that tells you that the circuit is intact.... the wires ... fuses .. etc... but TINKERING IS NO DOUBT important .... you can't really screw up .... and it is fun to discover just what all it can tell you ..... and besides..... if you're 80 and you're lacking hobbies ... just sayin' ...
ha ha ha ha LOL Thank You so much for your time. My Uncle is whom I was inquiring about. He lives 4 hours from me and I can't run up there and read his codes all the time. when one pops up this is his Second OBDII Vehicle and of course he bought one with issues, I have put a complete timing set, then a few months later an ECM and wiring harness So I been busy on it. Thank you for your time.@@letzrockitrite8469
I went to the scanner and saw that it was 635 US dollars. Here at home in Canada we pay 649 Canadian. That converts into 490 US dollars. Not sure why it is so much cheaper here in Canada but I'll take it.
Been there done that. except I heard mine go pop so I knew where it was, I just didn't know what it was, nor ow expensive it was until it was too late.
hi Kenny, Very informative video, I like the way you work. There is one question that arises in my brain, which is: How are you sure the alternator is broken, I mean, couldn't the fuse have blown because of the wrong way jump start? In the previous video when you jump wired the fuse, the wire got hot, which is not suprising in my opinon, as it is supposed to carry all the current the alternator feeds to the battery and the whole car actually (assuming the alternator was working)
Considering that the wire got that hot & actually melted, when there is only supposed to be a fuse link. I was pretty confident that the altenator was the issue. I believe that was the original issue with the vehicle & that was why it was parked for so long. That was an excellent question. Thank you! Keep wrenching 🔧
well the easiest way to test an alternator is to start your vehicle and then disconnect the battery. if your vehicle dies your alternator is fucked, but if it stays running the alternator is fine. you don't even have to remove a single bolt to do this test. you just gotta loosen the 2 bolts on your battery connectors so you can pull em off.
It has something to do with the emissions system. My 2006 will idle really high for the first few seconds and you can hear the air pump buzzing to push extra air into the cats during / after that too. It'll idle down to normal soon after. Like 15 - 30 seconds.
That's what I said in my last post,if the vehicle was jump started with the jumper leads connected the wrong way or if the battery was connected backwards then that could've shorted out the alternator diodes which caused the fuse to blow. Those Nippon Denso alternators aren't cheap if you can find a brand new unit ( they're a few hundred $$$'s for a Toyota Corolla) which is why when the diodes got fried in it I just removed the back tin cover & replaced the diode pack assembly which required no soldering since they're screwed onto the stator leads. It was in my mothers Toyota Corolla which my grandmother used to own !
a fuse or fusable link ,fast blow,slow blow fuse,ceramic fuse,liquid fuse, switched fuse,glass fuse all in line to blow before over heating wire always trips or blows first
Wow.. just... WOW. All of this, because someobody reversed Plus and Minus with the jumper cables?? How is that even possible in 2020-something : Connectors really dirty? Battery terminals dirty? Was it dark out? Were the cables reversed on the host vehicle? Someone really not at all paying attention?
You were very lucky that the 60 Amp fuse didn't blow. Otherwise your brand new alternator could have been fried instantly. Alternators really, really, really don't like to be disconnected while running. The diodes in the alternator have a very low voltage rating to gain good efficiency (low voltage diodes have less forward voltage drop). If you disconnect a running alternator, the diodes normally blow instantly, because of the voltage spike.
hmm really? that's how i always have tested if an alternator was good or bad you start the vehicle and disconnect the battery, iv yet to blow one in over 15 years of doing so.
@@jackasshomey you were very, very lucky then... When the lights and the AC blower are on you might get away with it, because it softens the spike. But even then it's a really, really bad idea. It is for a reason that every owner's, service, maintenance or workshop manual tells you to never disconnect the battery with the engine running.
Under or lower voltage = less current. V = IR V = voltage, I = current, R = resistance - Ohms law. Typically lower voltage can never deliver more current. If a diode fails short circuit you start getting AC (ripple if only 1 diode) higher voltage, if it goes open circuit just less power.@@fitybux4664
Good God. What group of junior engineers designed the position of that Alternator? It was TOYOTA so they could hammer the customer for labor charges. Horrible. F Toyota. F all foreign vehicle companies.
This is totally irrelevant to your current video Have you ever changed a cable for a 2001gmc transmission cable. After getting the wrong cable, I got the correct cable, unfortunately the two cable's would not connect. I misstakingley removed the retainer from the cable. Don't ever do this. Problem was the shaft going into the other cable was 1/8 of an inch to long. Could not get the retainer clip back in. Used small wire to secure the two cable's. As I broke the clip. The cable's are supposed to snap together. They don't if the cable coming from the transmission is to long. I ended up cutting off about an 1/8 inch to get them to fit. Frustrating.
ANY Alternator wrongfully designed to be mounted on the lower part of the engine subjects it to water and other debris which will damage it. I've seen alternators on some Fords mounted above the exhaust pipe...meant to be FRIED..Bozo engineers!
@@WrenchingWithKenny Thank you. I subscribe to your channel. I have a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2 liter 167K miles. Replaced the Spark plugs, (used to misfire-not anymore) but idles rough. Any baseball park ideas on what to check? Thanks.
Labor time is a ripoff! I have done jobs in a half hour and the book called for 2.3. I go by actual time now. I am not going to rip people off because of a book that is meant to make you more money than you earned. My conscience will not let me do that anymore.
Can go either way like this stupid .8 to change this alternator is way too low to get vehicle in the shop diagnose it repair it verify repair to get paid 20$ screw that
As a courtesy to my mechanic, I always touch up the engine with the foam Cannon and a light pressure wash. He's never said anything about it one way or the other, but having a clean engine bay and engine makes a tough job a little more pleasant.
I like to keep engine bay clean to
I think I love you. 15 year tech
@@chadcramer4024 Just a little professional courtesy from one working man to another.
Each member of my family has a car. That's four. I am the one who keeps the entire engine compartments clean. Periodically I use Purple Blaster solvent spray when the engine is cold. It is water soluble and hoses off easily. Then I use dishwashing liquid on a rag to all the hard-to-get areas.
The modern engine is sufficiently impervious to garden hose pressure.
I have a 20-year-old Corolla Station-Wagon and the engine is impeccable.
Trinidad & Tobago.
West Indies.
You should only do this if you know your way around the engine bay--not mechanic level or anything, just enough experience to get yourself into trouble. :) You need to check for oil and fluid leaks first. There are a lot of pinhole leaks that are easier to see if it's been several days and the leak has made a big enough mess to track back to the source. If you just like keeping things clean, do the wash after the mechanic is done. There will always be drips and dribbles during standard maintenance. :)
Yep somebody did something bad to that charging system. That top radiator hose wasn't looking so healthy either. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
Nice job Kenny. You make it look real easy, though it is not !
Once someone rounded the hex of the alternator long-bolt on a 2013 Yaris, by using a cheap spanner. I had to weld a chisel to another chisel to reach the bolt-head down inside. Eventually it woke up, and then I could thread it out by hand. Of course, I had to get a new bolt.
Lots of vehicles pop their main fuse if a jumper cable is connected in reverse. I know too, it may mean disaster for others !
Trinidad & Tobago.
West Indies.
Kenny, I look forward to your videos. I am not a mechanic, but I have done tune-ups and carburetor rebuilds on cars I have owned and generators and am pretty capable of figuring out some problems. Your attention to detail and process is stellar. And as a woman, I truly appreciate your inclusiveness towards me. Keep wrenching.
Hey if my little 90 pound sister can change a serpentine belt on a diesel engine bus on the side of the road. Anyone can do it.
whats her insta? lol@@Emoralis
Very good videos , it’s so good to see someone do complete jobs correctly . Thanks . 11:04
I appreciate your kind words. Keep wrenching!
Hey Kenny, I always enjoy your videos. Thanks for the time and effort you put into them.👍
Nice work Kenny. You make it look easy. I know that wasn't too bad, but remember how easy it use to be to change an alternator.
Just so you know, the linked scanners on Amazon are not available right now. But I'm clicking a different sponsor link on every video. Thanks Kenny!
Good Day Ken, I will share an alternator issue. 1997 Ram 1500 blew a whole bunch of fuses. After a lot of monkeying around with test light and vom I couldn't find anything wrong. But as soon as I started the engine they all blew again and I noticed the head lights got very bright just befor the fuse blew. I finally decided to put in all new fuses again and start the engine with my meter hooked up to measure the alternator out voltage. As soon as that 5.2L w/ that tuned intake setup it starts, it rev's up to about 1,500 rpm and just befor it melted every single fuse again, I saw my volt meter show 45 volts. Next try was with the alternator output wire disconnected and it showed the battery voltage and no fuses blew. Next I disconnected the feed wires to the alternator and w/ engine running I checked the voltage at the ends and it read battery voltage. I took the alternator up to Autozone to check it and they said it was good. I was stumped. Then I called a rebuilder and that was when I found out the computer regulates the alternator output. The rebuilder told me to check the rotor winding to see if it was shorted. Instead of taking the alternator all apart, he suggested I use the first generation solid state regulator called a flat pack to supply the alternator voltage. When I did it the lights flickered. They lit up real bright and then dimmed, back and forth like 10 times per second. The voltage was oscillating between 14.5 volts and 30 volts. So what I got out of it was that 140 amp alternator was over voltage because the rotor coil was shorted to ground somewhere far enough into the coil that it didn't get the ground side from the PCM. So the shorted coil was running un regulated. So I opted for an Autozone rebuilt alternator, but I made them check it right out of the box. They told me there was nothing wrong with my old one, they had checked it and didn't want to sell it to me, it would not fix my problem and I'd be just bringing it back. I was thinking I was hoping I didn't need a new PCM. Well, the new alternator worked perfectly putting a stead 14.7 volts on the flat pack setup I had going and no lights flickering. So I connected the feed wires from the PCM and no more flickering and no more fuses blown. The voltage seemed to move around a lot compared to the flat pack, and sometimes it did go as high as 15.5 volts. But everything else looked good. It seemed like a lot of monkeying around, and the Autozone girl really didn't want to sell me that new alternator. My little setup showed me the PCM was OK. In the end, I didn't feel too bad, at least I didn't buy another PCM for no reason. My hats off to the rebuilder for the tip on how to check it, but I never did go back to Autozone to tell the girl it fixed my problem. The next time I was in there she'd left. ben/ michigan
Definitely jumpered backwards. Step father did this to his car. Blew everything. Ignition module, alternator, regulator, etc. The alternator has a diode array that is now shorted out. That blew the fuse block. Once upon a time... You could buy the arrays and regulators at fleet farm.. and rebuild the alternators.. the diode array is a 3 phase rectifier. (6 diodes).
Thanks for always keeping us DIY'ers in mind. Had the scanner long enough to play with it on all 3 of my vehicles. No regrets and It'll pay for itself just by reseting the service alerts in the Wife's Mini.
Quick and accurate Kenny! Not too much detail, just what was needed.
VW/AUDI, BMW, etc.; the german cars are FAMOUS for these fuse block setups. Not such a PITA in japanese and usdm vehicles. Hybrids are different story. I hate these things... Good show sir. Appreciate you showing the proper way to do things, and not Jerry's way..
The 140 amps is to handle the anti-skid system and/or or traction control system draw when it has to kick in to modulate the brakes. The electric pump is pretty loud when I tried it on ice. I wouldn't try a long term load at that amperage.
A little more work and this could be a good truck for this guy. Good vid. Thanks
Good luck with packing! Hope the new space works for you.
Good afternoon Mr Kenny hope y'all have a good day,thank you for your videos sir
Bought the scanner .... it's a great recommend Kenny ... thank you sir
would you say it is very easy to use? and would you say an 80 year old that can not send pictures from his smart phone could use it?
@@OldManTinkers Your handle/name says that you "Tinker" ... it's plug and play ... youtube vids regarding it's capabilities is very helpful so you don't really have to swallow the whole cow at once ... through the bi-directional control alone you can gather huge amounts of information .... how to apply that info depends on the system you're working on for instance ... IF you CAN run (whatever you're trying to run) that tells you that the circuit is intact.... the wires ... fuses .. etc... but TINKERING IS NO DOUBT important .... you can't really screw up .... and it is fun to discover just what all it can tell you ..... and besides..... if you're 80 and you're lacking hobbies ... just sayin' ...
ha ha ha ha LOL Thank You so much for your time. My Uncle is whom I was inquiring about. He lives 4 hours from me and I can't run up there and read his codes all the time. when one pops up this is his Second OBDII Vehicle and of course he bought one with issues, I have put a complete timing set, then a few months later an ECM and wiring harness So I been busy on it. Thank you for your time.@@letzrockitrite8469
I went to the scanner and saw that it was 635 US dollars. Here at home in Canada we pay 649 Canadian. That converts into 490 US dollars. Not sure why it is so much cheaper here in Canada but I'll take it.
Where's part 1? I want to see the whole movie! 🍿
the shorts your making are making me look for a new channel, please keep the regular videos coming. you're doing a great job.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, and done in the simplest way.
Been there done that. except I heard mine go pop so I knew where it was, I just didn't know what it was, nor ow expensive it was until it was too late.
hi Kenny,
Very informative video, I like the way you work.
There is one question that arises in my brain, which is:
How are you sure the alternator is broken, I mean, couldn't the fuse have blown because of the wrong way jump start?
In the previous video when you jump wired the fuse, the wire got hot, which is not suprising in my opinon, as it is supposed to carry all the current the alternator feeds to the battery and the whole car actually (assuming the alternator was working)
Considering that the wire got that hot & actually melted, when there is only supposed to be a fuse link. I was pretty confident that the altenator was the issue. I believe that was the original issue with the vehicle & that was why it was parked for so long. That was an excellent question. Thank you! Keep wrenching 🔧
The Zener Diode in the alternator regulator circuit had probably gone short circuit.
I've seen a similar situation, when someone changed the alternator out, while the positive cable was still attached to the battery.
Valuable information Kenny, thanks for sharing your skills!
Just did a steering rack and pump on my wifes Mercedes,(pot hole took it out)the worst part of that whole job was putting the belt back on!
Backwards battery connection can damage alrernator diodes, bad diodes can short out blowing the alternator main fuse
Good luck at the new job maaate
well the easiest way to test an alternator is to start your vehicle and then disconnect the battery. if your vehicle dies your alternator is fucked, but if it stays running the alternator is fine.
you don't even have to remove a single bolt to do this test. you just gotta loosen the 2 bolts on your battery connectors so you can pull em off.
good job sir.
Nice job again ken🏆
Is it me or is the idle on that truck kind of high. ??
Toyota tends to idle high when cold
It has something to do with the emissions system. My 2006 will idle really high for the first few seconds and you can hear the air pump buzzing to push extra air into the cats during / after that too. It'll idle down to normal soon after. Like 15 - 30 seconds.
That's what I said in my last post,if the vehicle was jump started with the jumper leads connected the wrong way or if the battery was connected backwards then that could've shorted out the alternator diodes which caused the fuse to blow.
Those Nippon Denso alternators aren't cheap if you can find a brand new unit ( they're a few hundred $$$'s for a Toyota Corolla) which is why when the diodes got fried in it I just removed the back tin cover & replaced the diode pack assembly which required no soldering since they're screwed onto the stator leads.
It was in my mothers Toyota Corolla which my grandmother used to own !
a fuse or fusable link ,fast blow,slow blow fuse,ceramic fuse,liquid fuse, switched fuse,glass fuse all in line to blow before over heating wire always trips or blows first
Thank s
Can this cause high resistance in the circuit or will it cause the whole circuit to fail if it goes bad?
Wow.. just... WOW.
All of this, because someobody reversed Plus and Minus with the jumper cables??
How is that even possible in 2020-something : Connectors really dirty? Battery terminals dirty? Was it dark out? Were the cables reversed on the host vehicle? Someone really not at all paying attention?
Great video 📸
I hope that's $24 delivered, they are only $8 from our dealer.
So you are no longer going to be working at the salvage garage you have been working at all this time?
That Frankenfuse, what kind of nut comes up with that?!?!?!?!?
Seems the fuse did its job.
Wonder if someone was trying to steal the truck and or cut off the cat for money?
not checking the output on that new/reman alternator?
Starters on those are stupid too.
You were very lucky that the 60 Amp fuse didn't blow. Otherwise your brand new alternator could have been fried instantly. Alternators really, really, really don't like to be disconnected while running. The diodes in the alternator have a very low voltage rating to gain good efficiency (low voltage diodes have less forward voltage drop). If you disconnect a running alternator, the diodes normally blow instantly, because of the voltage spike.
hmm really? that's how i always have tested if an alternator was good or bad you start the vehicle and disconnect the battery, iv yet to blow one in over 15 years of doing so.
@@jackasshomey you were very, very lucky then... When the lights and the AC blower are on you might get away with it, because it softens the spike. But even then it's a really, really bad idea. It is for a reason that every owner's, service, maintenance or workshop manual tells you to never disconnect the battery with the engine running.
Alternator probably went way over voltage while failing - which blew all the other fuses - before it could actually destroy the electronics.
I think the reverse happened. The alternator's diode failed, it went way under voltage, and the huge amount of current popped the main fuse.
Under or lower voltage = less current. V = IR V = voltage, I = current, R = resistance - Ohms law. Typically lower voltage can never deliver more current. If a diode fails short circuit you start getting AC (ripple if only 1 diode) higher voltage, if it goes open circuit just less power.@@fitybux4664
Good God. What group of junior engineers designed the position of that Alternator? It was TOYOTA so they could hammer the customer for labor charges. Horrible. F Toyota. F all foreign vehicle companies.
i think they just jumped it backwards and caused all of it.
24 bucks? Holy shit, a few fuses would have been a helluva lot cheaper.
Agreed, but it was cheaper than I anticipated. It was a fuse link, which is a slow burning style fuse. Thanks for watching!
Ya, hadn't made it that far yet. Links, those are always fun.
This is totally irrelevant to your current video
Have you ever changed a cable for a 2001gmc transmission cable.
After getting the wrong cable, I got the correct cable, unfortunately the two cable's would not connect.
I misstakingley removed the retainer from the cable.
Don't ever do this.
Problem was the shaft going into the other cable was 1/8 of an inch to long.
Could not get the retainer clip back in.
Used small wire to secure the two cable's. As I broke the clip.
The cable's are supposed to snap together.
They don't if the cable coming from the transmission is to long.
I ended up cutting off about an 1/8 inch to get them to fit.
Frustrating.
Love your video,s,keep um cummin
ANY Alternator wrongfully designed to be mounted on the lower part of the engine subjects it to water and other debris which will damage it. I've seen alternators on some Fords mounted above the exhaust pipe...meant to be FRIED..Bozo engineers!
That's the truth. Thanks for your reply & watching the channel 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Thank you. I subscribe to your channel. I have a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2 liter 167K miles. Replaced the Spark plugs, (used to misfire-not anymore) but idles rough. Any baseball park ideas on what to check? Thanks.
Labor time is a ripoff! I have done jobs in a half hour and the book called for 2.3. I go by actual time now. I am not going to rip people off because of a book that is meant to make you more money than you earned. My conscience will not let me do that anymore.
Can go either way like this stupid .8 to change this alternator is way too low to get vehicle in the shop diagnose it repair it verify repair to get paid 20$ screw that
You never encounter a rusted bolt or stripped nut that delayed you for an hour.
How do you give customers an estimate?
Your not doing a 2.3 hr job in 1/2 an hour
🤣🤣🤣
And foreign cars are so much better 😀
Between that fuse block and that alternator change out that is some piss-poor Mickey mouse engineering!!!