Wow this was a great tutorial. I just replaced my baring assembly I would mention you will probably need a rubber mallard to knock loose the old bearing assembly mine was a b***** to get off. Other than that this tutorial was right on the money saved me over 300 bux to just do it myself. Thanks again.
I laughed my ass off when mine finally came off, pouring about a half-gallon of water onto my face ... I wad laughing because a) it stopped, and b) ir wasn't scalding hot water, lol; I was kind of concerned about both.
I want to thank you for a great video tutorial on changing the bearing assembly, it was really easy to change and solved the problem that I had with leaking THANK YOU !!!!!!!
Tom, I just ordered some parts including the wicks for the series 100...would you mind posting a picture of how they are installed? Mine seem trashed (I am replacing the mounts/coupler and wicks as preventative after 23 years / coupler started making some noice I think... rest of unit still doing it's job)...leaving what's not broke alone! The wicks-do they go parallel to the bearings left and right or over the top of them? Mine seem pretty well toasted.
@dirtymindedx rubber mallard is a good way to go if you have an old rusty one that is fused together. Usually they are not stuck to the point where you need that much force. Glad you liked the video and glad we could help. Take care!
@enlightened it would be a good idea to order the motor mounts too. Often the coupler goes bad because the motor mounts are sagging - they are "out of round". In your case though, you may be in luck. The coupler may have gone bad because of the lack of lubrication. You could go one of two ways: 1) replace the coupler cross your fingers. 2) replace both the coupler and motor mounts. If you choose to replace just the coupler, you may be ordering another yet coupler along with motor mounts.
@StankyWarez per our phone conversation, due to the amount of water that is coming in to the bearing cavity, I suggested that you replace the entire bearing assembly. I also recommended that you keep the old bearing assembly as a spare. Once you have the defective bearing assembly off you can inspect and possibly repair it.
good video on how the pump goes together!! my coupling broke i believe before it's time and very hard to get to!!! i replaced that coupling just a few years ago, and think it should of lasted longer then it did, any comments why it would fail prematurly??? riles lane
Is there any "special" way to install the oil wick? My oil wick is shot. I have the replacement, but not sure of the best way /place to install the oil wick. Can I just put the two wicks along the side? I *hate* who there is not good information on these pumps. That is why this video is great, he is *showing* us what we need to know.
+John G. Moore, Jr. Not really. Just make sure the wick ends are placed evenly on each side of the bearing. The ends of the wick should be lying at the bottom of the oil reservoir.
I have a series 100 pump that is leaking water very bad,after I add water to the system it leaks out right away the system will not hold any pressure is it that I need a new pump or time for a new gas boiler?
David Salzman Sounds like you have a bad lip seal. I would recommend giving Tom a call, (The Pump Doctor) at 1-877-775-7782. He will walk you through what you should do.
i bought bearing assembly and coupler/impeller only 2 years ago and this year the noise is unbelievable, no problems heating house just very loud for some reason a pipes vibrate in each room. bought the oil-less bearings[stainless ball bearings] but i suspect they corroded or some such...i fell for the sales pitch, still have to oil motor...no leaks in bearings, just noisy as heck and a bit of shaft oil isn't helping ANYONE KNOW OF SUCH A THING HAPPENING TO THEM AND HOW TO FIX OR OIL THE BALLBEARINGS? NO NOISE FROM MOTOR AND SHAFT TURNS FREELY AND COUPLER WAS EXAMINED. MOTOR STAYS COOL AS DOES REST OF IT. Impeller was new but...it is polymer so...noise is actually metallic and continues for second after click shuts down motor, momentum of shaft?
David Salzman It depends on where the leak is. If it's leaking out of oil well cover, you my have just over oiled it. If you're getting an oil/water mix leaking from in between the bearing assembly and the cast iron volute, you'll need a new seal. The part number for seal is 118681 (BG1300 )and we have plenty in stock.
Will a motor fail without damaging the couplers if the impeller shaft is tight? By tight I mean I can spin it with my fingers but it is not as easy to spin as the shaft on the motor. I am having a repairman come replace the motor but don't want that to go bad from the resistance. I just don't know how to tell how much resistance would be bad.
The motor likely failed due to age or electrical issue not due to the coupler. If you are replacing your motor it would be a good idea to replace the coupler as well. Hope this helps!
how much oil is needed in the front gear section if pump is working contiunuasly, some say 3 drops a year, others say 3 drops a month if working continuously, is it the same on the B80 version, thank you
Hi Erik - depending on the age of your pump and how long it has been leaking, my advice is to replace the bearing assembly (located in the middle section of the pump) with a BG1453 (part number 189134) which is a new bearing assembly that includes the impeller. Just follow the instructions in the video above and call me if you need additional help at 1-877-775-7782.
I need to replace a bearing assembly..... the B&G # on the bearing is 189101.....what 'other' numbers would work with this application. I've seen several assemblies (189100, 102, 103 etc....) while I have been shopping that look identical, and want to make sure we purchase the right assembly?
My circulator is making loud sounds! Does that mean I need to replace it? and if so is it hard to do it? My model is an older one I think.. P2909 model gold color with timer. please help!
air biggs It could be any number off issues, there are some repair parts for that pump. If you would like to call Tom (The Pump Doctor) at 1-877-775-7782, he should be able to walk you through the issue.
Hello Tom, I have a question if you can help me out I would really appreciate it. I have the same pump and the bearing assembly is making a very loud noise that radiates all the way upstairs to the point we cant even sleep. So I opened the oil port of the bearing assembly to find a bunch of black gunk and what looked like broken pieces of plastic and some stringy things. So I cleaned it all out-- I now know that those strings were supposed to be there. Anyway I pulled those strings out and re-oiled it but it still makes noise--So do I need to replace the whole bearing assembly or can I replace that stringy stuff? BTW, it is very dirty and gunky even after I cleaned the oil port out--any help would be appreciated. And 1 more question Tom, How much oil is supposed to go into the bearing assembly port? Is 2 tablespoons correct?THANK YOU
PLEASE HELP ASAP!!! I'm in NJ & it's getting cold!! I have a 100 series (106189) pump but the pump is fine, i just need the bearing assembly (coupler) with impeller, but i'm only finding that/those parts sold separately for the 189134 model... are they compatible & if not where else can I look for this part??
Hello! The 189134 bearing assembly does come with the plastic impeller. The coupler is sold separately. If you have any questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1877-775-7705!
Hey Richard, could be a few different things. A coupler on a Series 100 should last roughly 10 years. That is about the time it takes for the motor mounts to go bad, start sagging, and throw the motor out of alignment - which will break your coupler. Check the end of the coupler ears on your failed coupler. If they are out of round or grooved, bad motor mounts are the culprit. Give me a call if you have further questions at 877-775-7705. -Tom
Hey bigbub - sounds to me like your seal kit is leaking into the oil reservoir. Is it peeing out the weep hole on the bearing assembly? If it is not peeing out the weep hole, your seal kit is probably still leaking. Either way, I recommend replacing the seal kit and/or the bearing assembly. Give me a call tomorrow anytime after 9am CST if you have further questions and I would be happy to help you out - 877-775-7705.
Hi Ricky - sounds like your problem goes outside the scope of just your pump. There are too many variables to diagnose the problem with a comment. Why don't you give me a call at 877-775-7782 and I'll see if I can't point you in the right direction.
Won der ful thank you!!
Great video very informative ty
Awesome! Thanks for this... 11 years later 😵💫
Thank you! I was able to replace the coupler. You saved me so much $!
Wow this was a great tutorial. I just replaced my baring assembly I would mention you will probably need a rubber mallard to knock loose the old bearing assembly mine was a b***** to get off. Other than that this tutorial was right on the money saved me over 300 bux to just do it myself. Thanks again.
I laughed my ass off when mine finally came off, pouring about a half-gallon of water onto my face ... I wad laughing because a) it stopped, and b) ir wasn't scalding hot water, lol; I was kind of concerned about both.
I want to thank you for a great video tutorial on changing the bearing assembly, it was really easy to change and solved the problem that I had with leaking THANK YOU !!!!!!!
came back to say thank you for high quality training videos. I'll definitely order parts from State Supply in the future.
Tom, I just ordered some parts including the wicks for the series 100...would you mind posting a picture of how they are installed? Mine seem trashed (I am replacing the mounts/coupler and wicks as preventative after 23 years / coupler started making some noice I think... rest of unit still doing it's job)...leaving what's not broke alone! The wicks-do they go parallel to the bearings left and right or over the top of them? Mine seem pretty well toasted.
Thank you very much for this video.
Glad you liked it! Thanks!
@dirtymindedx rubber mallard is a good way to go if you have an old rusty one that is fused together. Usually they are not stuck to the point where you need that much force. Glad you liked the video and glad we could help. Take care!
@enlightened it would be a good idea to order the motor mounts too. Often the coupler goes bad because the motor mounts are sagging - they are "out of round". In your case though, you may be in luck. The coupler may have gone bad because of the lack of lubrication. You could go one of two ways: 1) replace the coupler cross your fingers. 2) replace both the coupler and motor mounts. If you choose to replace just the coupler, you may be ordering another yet coupler along with motor mounts.
Great Video
@StankyWarez per our phone conversation, due to the amount of water that is coming in to the bearing cavity, I suggested that you replace the entire bearing assembly. I also recommended that you keep the old bearing assembly as a spare. Once you have the defective bearing assembly off you can inspect and possibly repair it.
good video on how the pump goes together!! my coupling broke i believe before it's time and very hard to get to!!! i replaced that coupling just a few years ago, and think it should of lasted longer then it did, any comments why it would fail prematurly??? riles lane
Awesome video, helped me a lot. lost another motor to over oiling, how do you know if a motor has too much oil?
Is there any "special" way to install the oil wick? My oil wick is shot. I have the replacement, but not sure of the best way /place to install the oil wick. Can I just put the two wicks along the side? I *hate* who there is not good information on these pumps. That is why this video is great, he is *showing* us what we need to know.
+John G. Moore, Jr. Not really. Just make sure the wick ends are placed evenly on each side of the bearing. The ends of the wick should be lying at the bottom of the oil reservoir.
+State Supply - Cool, thanks!
@jeffpicks you just need to make sure and get one with a sturdy beak :-). Sorry for the typo... not sure what was on my mind. I appreciate the thanks!
I have a series 100 pump that is leaking water very bad,after I add water to the system it leaks out right away the system will not hold any pressure is it that I need a new pump or time for a new gas boiler?
It's leaking just oil between the motor and bearing assembly.
David Salzman Sounds like you have a bad lip seal. I would recommend giving Tom a call, (The Pump Doctor) at 1-877-775-7782. He will walk you through what you should do.
i bought bearing assembly and coupler/impeller only 2 years ago and this year the noise is unbelievable, no problems heating house just very loud for some reason a pipes vibrate in each room. bought the oil-less bearings[stainless ball bearings] but i suspect they corroded or some such...i fell for the sales pitch, still have to oil motor...no leaks in bearings, just noisy as heck and a bit of shaft oil isn't helping ANYONE KNOW OF SUCH A THING HAPPENING TO THEM AND HOW TO FIX OR OIL THE BALLBEARINGS? NO NOISE FROM MOTOR AND SHAFT TURNS FREELY AND COUPLER WAS EXAMINED. MOTOR STAYS COOL AS DOES REST OF IT. Impeller was new but...it is polymer so...noise is actually metallic and continues for second after click shuts down motor, momentum of shaft?
Hi. My pump is leaking but I cannot find a replacement gasket anywhere.could you help me out plz. Thanks
How often would you oil the pump?
My trouble is my motor stops turning after a few minutes of running. Will I need a whole new pump or can I fix the motor?
How do you install the timer on the series 100? It appears it has nowhere to be mounted on
Hi Jorge. You can give our pump specialists a call at 1-877-775-7782 and they'll help you.
i have a problem with my pump leaking water from where the main oil goes in. do i just need to change out the bearing assembly?
Mine is leaking oil is there a deal kit for it or do I have to buy a new assembly?
David Salzman It depends on where the leak is. If it's leaking out of oil well cover, you my have just over oiled it. If you're getting an oil/water mix leaking from in between the bearing assembly and the cast iron volute, you'll need a new seal. The part number for seal is 118681 (BG1300 )and we have plenty in stock.
Will a motor fail without damaging the couplers if the impeller shaft is tight? By tight I mean I can spin it with my fingers but it is not as easy to spin as the shaft on the motor.
I am having a repairman come replace the motor but don't want that to go bad from the resistance. I just don't know how to tell how much resistance would be bad.
The motor likely failed due to age or electrical issue not due to the coupler. If you are replacing your motor it would be a good idea to replace the coupler as well. Hope this helps!
@@statesupply I did actually replace the couplers too. Thanks!
how much oil is needed in the front gear section if pump is working contiunuasly, some say 3 drops a year, others say 3 drops a month if working continuously, is it the same on the B80 version, thank you
Hi Erik - depending on the age of your pump and how long it has been leaking, my advice is to replace the bearing assembly (located in the middle section of the pump) with a BG1453 (part number 189134) which is a new bearing assembly that includes the impeller. Just follow the instructions in the video above and call me if you need additional help at 1-877-775-7782.
Don't throw out that washer - its the centering washer meant to seat the spring on the bottom side of the impeller.
I need to replace a bearing assembly..... the B&G # on the bearing is 189101.....what 'other' numbers would work with this application. I've seen several assemblies (189100, 102, 103 etc....) while I have been shopping that look identical, and want to make sure we purchase the right assembly?
+ChaplainK All of those bearing assemblies are replaced by the 189163LF bearing assembly. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks
+State Supply Ok, thank you.
My circulator is making loud sounds! Does that mean I need to replace it? and if so is it hard to do it? My model is an older one I think.. P2909 model gold color with timer. please help!
air biggs Oh and mine looks half the size of these red ones I see online.. I cant even find my model anywhere..
air biggs It could be any number off issues, there are some repair parts for that pump. If you would like to call Tom (The Pump Doctor) at 1-877-775-7782, he should be able to walk you through the issue.
hello, are you familiar with, Wands WBA10 bearing assy? I see that these are sealed. No oiling needed?
+ken peffley I am not familiar with those. The series 100 bearing assemblies should be oiled.
+State Supply How much oil is needed and how would you know if have added enough?
You should make sure the oil wicks are well coated. You can't over oil it, any excess oil will be drained out of the hole on the bearing assembly.
Hello Tom, I have a question if you can help me out I would really appreciate it. I have the same pump and the bearing assembly is making a very loud noise that radiates all the way upstairs to the point we cant even sleep. So I opened the oil port of the bearing assembly to find a bunch of black gunk and what looked like broken pieces of plastic and some stringy things. So I cleaned it all out-- I now know that those strings were supposed to be there. Anyway I pulled those strings out and re-oiled it but it still makes noise--So do I need to replace the whole bearing assembly or can I replace that stringy stuff? BTW, it is very dirty and gunky even after I cleaned the oil port out--any help would be appreciated. And 1 more question Tom, How much oil is supposed to go into the bearing assembly port? Is 2 tablespoons correct?THANK YOU
oh shit he just threw out the centering washer!?
PLEASE HELP ASAP!!! I'm in NJ & it's getting cold!! I have a 100 series (106189) pump but the pump is fine, i just need the bearing assembly (coupler) with impeller, but i'm only finding that/those parts sold separately for the 189134 model... are they compatible & if not where else can I look for this part??
NEVERMIND!! I finally found some more info! For anyone else with my same situation, the series 100 MODEL # 189134 IS compatible with the 106189 pump !
Hello! The 189134 bearing assembly does come with the plastic impeller. The coupler is sold separately. If you have any questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1877-775-7705!
Sweet thanks guys!
Hey Richard, could be a few different things. A coupler on a Series 100 should last roughly 10 years. That is about the time it takes for the motor mounts to go bad, start sagging, and throw the motor out of alignment - which will break your coupler. Check the end of the coupler ears on your failed coupler. If they are out of round or grooved, bad motor mounts are the culprit. Give me a call if you have further questions at 877-775-7705. -Tom
Hey bigbub - sounds to me like your seal kit is leaking into the oil reservoir. Is it peeing out the weep hole on the bearing assembly? If it is not peeing out the weep hole, your seal kit is probably still leaking. Either way, I recommend replacing the seal kit and/or the bearing assembly. Give me a call tomorrow anytime after 9am CST if you have further questions and I would be happy to help you out - 877-775-7705.
Hi Ricky - sounds like your problem goes outside the scope of just your pump. There are too many variables to diagnose the problem with a comment. Why don't you give me a call at 877-775-7782 and I'll see if I can't point you in the right direction.