Only about 1/4 of the way through, but thanks in advance for taking the time to test us out! I love your presentation style and u can see a lot of time and care was put into making this a shockingly digestible 30 minutes video :D - LS
Haha I can NOT not read this comment in your voice. Honestly I was relieved when I saw your review and had mostly similar results, I love how you explain your setups and I'm sure you could see how some of the parts of this video were inspired by your channel!
The oil on the driver bits may actually be a feature. Prevents any oxidation or corrosion while the kit sits in a warehouse waiting for someone to buy it.
And though I don't think it's launched yet, much of the conversation around development was future ability to pick between a few load-outs of bits. Given that plan I think leaving them separate from the driver itself allows purchase of multiple SKU's without the issue of multiple assembly tracks. Also cheaper than paying someone to insert bits in drivers (probably by a lot).
Love the video, I will say the "bit switch speed" was a bit unfair because you know with the PB Swiss there will be a 10-30 minute penalty where you're walking around looking for the bit storage brick that you "left somewhere you wouldn't forget it"
Oil on metal parts actually helps act as a rust preventative as someone who works more on the manufacturing side of metal production. We have customers that literally require us to oil their stuff before we send it back to them for example. I'd rather have oiled bits than rusty bits when it comes down to it.
@@jonathanlarsen4177 even stainless steel is susceptible to rust. Using oil literally prevents it from rusting regardless. The metal they used is quite a good tool steel and using oil is actually smart. Sure say they could've gone with a high speed or something zwear assuming it wouldn't rust cost still goes up and it doesn't mean it's suited for a use like driver bits. Shockingly not all metals are suited for all jobs. Oiling them also means they could sit on shelves for months without any concern. Just knock off the "lol just do better" keyboard warrior bs. I have customers that want all their tool steels oiled and there's a reason for it. Its steel. It's susceptible to rusting.
@@Blue-cq2hl If anything, specialty stainless steels (hardenable, martensitic types, designed as tool/knife steels or HSS) that are really good for tools will be a bit less corrosion resistant than such that are optimized for corrosion resistance above anything else (eg the austenitic 304 type used for pots and pans). And sometimes non-stainless specialty steels will be the best choice for tools (or the best choice for an affordable but high performance tool) - for example, some of the best electronics cutter brands use non-stainless carbon tool steel for good reasons. You could probably make them equally good if you went for some of the really high end stainless and semi-stainless (HAP/YXR series, Crucible CPM-S series, probably also alloys like VG10 knife steel) - it will add cost, not just for the steel but also because any post-heat-treatment finishing needed will wear out the factory tools much more/need more or more expensive abrasives/....
Glad someone mentioned it. Like yeah you can add a finish to the tool. But it is metal on metal eventually that finish will wear and rust will begin. But by oiling the bits they stay rust free. Im sure it was a cost compromise especially with the extra bits that can be ordered. But it shows a level of attention to detail and understanding of the product that they did oil the parts. For example if these dont seel/ ship fast for any reason the bits are protected from rust while on shelves in stores warehouses or while being shipped overseas by boat(if that happens) so when the customer receives them they will be a bit oily but also rust free.
The biggest complaint I have as a mechanic with "Grippy" handle or rubberized handles is that once you start getting greases and oils on them, they start falling apart and/or getting really nasty sticky feeling to them. This is something that is not considered "Warrantable" by the tool companies I have dealt with. The hard handles wipe off and are good for life.
Not a fan of rubberized handles for that reason. They dissolve. Meanwhile, 30 year old craftsman and snap on handles are just fine. And I’m not even a snap on fan, but I’ve seen the good qualities they have.
I laughed so hard at "is itt better than our sponsor?" hahaha The LTT segue is legendary, Great video man. Hope you're doing good with your health, always keep you in my thoughts and prayers I now what it's like to live with a chronic illness, I was born with a rare kidney/liver disease and have had 3 transplants in my life and live with pain every day. UA-cam is my way to keep my head in a good place. 🙂
The hangup for me on the Williams would be the "just toss em in there" nature of the bit storage. Probably just a personal pet peeve but it drives me bonkers hearing bits rattling around inside while I'm working.
A removable cap and loose bits is a constant source of anxiety whenever I’ve used the workshop’s Snap-on while working on electronics OR automobiles. Sorry Snap-on and clones, but that’s a hard no.
I like the review, one thing to point out is that the rubber handles drivers tend to hold onto dirt and debris over time. Sweat and greases can cause them to break down quicker.
recently got a force driver that uses bits (no storage) with a rubberized handle , it fits so well in my hand that for 4$ I will gladly change it out to the same one when the rubber wars out and gets sticky.
It seems to me like the internal storage of the LTT and Amazon basics drivers are a good convenience feature and saves time in comparison to having bits stored seperately or loose in the handle. It is a shame the Amazon basics had such a poor ratchet and weak magnet, otherwise I could see that being quite a nice format for PC building.
I feel the same about the amazon one, its already a compelling option as it is. Honestly I could see myself picking up an amazonbasics for general use, until I've saved up enough to comfortably drop $80 on the LTT driver as a gift to myself.
@@ianlehman8342 from what people said about the Amazon one during the live stream as a couple people had it is that it feels pretty decent out of the box however performance over time significantly degrades like the bit holder doesn't come out and the Ratchet progressively feels worse
@@rogerroger10-47 yes they should especially if you are a mechanic and you pay for top quality. That being I have Vessel, Wera, Wiha, PB Swiss and I've gotten all at lower prices than on the tool truck.
A rotating end is an overlooked feature... The ltt allows you to apply downward force at the end with palm and than spin with second hand without the end creating friction against your palm. It's the ultimate to prevent the driver from camming out and preventing damage to cheap fastener heads
It depends on one's technique. Personally, if it needs that force to push it into the screw, I'll also be applying some additional torque through my palm to the screwdriver. However, if one is spinning the shaft with one's fingers, having the end free to rotate means one hand can hold the screwdriver in a stable position and square to the fastener while spinning it with the other hand.
The precision screwdriver that came in my electronics repair kit has this and also a hole in the handle to insert the separate extension shaft and get some crazy torque out of it. It's metal-on-metal and no bearing, so it squeaks like a mofo, though.
@@gordowg1wg145 This. I have an off-brand cheap screwdriver with a rotating end and it really conserves my energy due to me having to raise my arms above my head very often. It's so much better than using a driver with none and having to twist my arm in an already tiring position.
The rotating end is a make or break feature for me, maybe not quite the same application but I do a lot of industrial electrical work and using a terminating screwdriver without the rotating end would just be madness. Carpal tunnel waiting to happen.
@@tomdragon3881That's kind of what I was thinking you could get away with just getting one double-sided Phillips of two sizes in something like a Klein screwdriver and that would pretty much cover anything you run into in a PC side from the big thumb screws that some of them use on the back. It's thin it's narrow so there's more RPM per input and it's all fingers. At these prices I would get a super light duty electric screwdriver and a precision screwdriver with a button on the back. Then again I bought one for work and one of the young kids managed to pull off the button and lose it so it became very unpleasant to use.
I typically never respond to these discussions, however, for some reason feel compelled here. Excellent review overall, I must say - thank you! As far as the ratcheting screwdrivers, I have been utilizing WERA for years. WERA makes various "grades" of ratcheting drivers, some even with adjustable torque control (miniature torque wrenches - both adjustable and factory preset for a specific purpose such as mass production of a specific part requiring a specific torque setting). I find all their tools to be top-notch and would have absolutely no hesitation in recommending them to anyone. For those concerned about cam-out of the screws, please utilize the "Laser Etched Anti-Cam-Out Bits" WERA offers. They are extremely grippy and will never cam-out. At least not in my extensive experience. WERA Bits are heat treated for hardness, typically with Rockwell Hardness Scale numbers of about 55 to 60, slightly less then the PB Swiss. As for PB Swiss - they are fantastic. Absolutely top notch. I use these for jobs in which extreme precision is required. The bits are harder then the WERA bits, typically testing to a Rockwell Hardness Scale of 58 to 65. All are heat treated for hardness. I personally find the comfort grip handle design of the WERA System to be more comfortable for MY hand (size 7 glove, smallish hand for guys. Average male hand is a size 8). Nevertheless, personal preferences on the comfort of the handle aside (subjective), objectively, the PB Swiss will cope with a little more torque over WERA and the bits are harder. You get what you pay for. In addition to WERA and PB Swiss, I have tried and own Snap-On, WIHA, Klein, Craftsman ("old Craftsman" from the 90's and earlier is TOTALLY different then "new Craftsman" that you purchase today with the older stuff so much better then the newer stuff, Dewalt, Stanley, and others. That being said, I personally own the complete line of WERA Tools, entire system, as well as PB Swiss. I have yet to have one break or need repair. I also own the complete Knipex System for pliers and other assorted tools. Hand-held power tools I go with Festool and Dewalt depending on the tool. In conclusion, as a Master Machinist / Tool & Die Maker involved in precision work as well as heavy machining work in the aviation and motorsports industries specializing in making low volume production runs of parts that no one else can figure out how to machine, I would have NO PROBLEM recommending WERA and PB Swiss to anyone. Knipex for Wrenches and electrical wire cutters, pipe wrenches, etc.... You can't go wrong. As for the review, as I said, overall, excellent. One aspect overlooked, however, is the bits! The same bit should have been used in ALL comparisons. This would have taken that variable out of the equation as the bits are significantly different. How can one compare of PB Swiss bit heat treated to a hardness of Rockwell 60 or WERA Laser Etched Anti-Cam-Out Bit in INOX Stainless Steel heat treated to a hardness of Rockwell 55 with a cheap Harbor Freight bit that has never been heat treated and is likely a Rockwell 20 at best, or, bits made from remelted scrap from the production of other products as opposed to centrifugally forged material specifically made for the creation of the hex stock for the bits? BIG DIFFERENCE! *Note - All Rockwell Hardness Numbers quoted were obtained by MY OWN TESTING utilizing a Rockwell Hardness Tester which is verified to be in spec (yearly) and kept in a climate controlled measurements room for standardization of parts prior to the company who ordered the parts completing the sale. In other words, if specified tolerances are not met, hardness not met, etc..., they will not take the parts and I have lots of scrap on my hands, so, that CAN NOT happen. All information shared is MY OWN PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. Thank you Jonathan
Wera - I was very fond of mine (non ratchet, bits in handle) til I tried to lever something open with the flat bit and the whole screwdriver broke in my hand.. I kinda want another but they aint super-cheap, so I'm now hesitant, and wanna try the LTT PB Swiss nice, very nice but even the LTT's way more than I'd usually pay for a screwdriver, so.. Nahhh sorry Knipex are lovely but my last cheap cutters have great hardness, and I'd be less paranoid about breaking them cutting the 'wrong' kind of wire (or cutting something that turns out to be harder than expected) as they're not cheap either - maybe get one as my 'nice' cutters? Trouble is Wera DO have some VERY sexy little tools - should I try again ;) ?
The problem with these type of screwdrivers on a IT environment (PC specifically), is that there isn't long screws in the first place, maybe with the exception of water cooling radiators. And if you are dealing with a humongous number of screws, it would be best to simply invest in a powered one with adjustable torque setting.
I don't disagree; though if you also do a lot of rackmount and networking stuff (homelab united!), there are sometimes higher torque and/or longer screws involved.
@@azblurbit You can get one tailored for electronics, with torque values adequate for the job. There are bigger ones you would use for PCs and smaller ones for laptops.
You just can't beat a "normal" screw driver. I used cordless drillers as a screwdriver at work for 90% of the time but sometimes you need fine control or those long screwdrivers in a hard to reach place.
One thing about the Snap-on in these comparisons that nobody ever mentions: The shaft is a separate piece from the driver, and you can trade out the shaft for the length of screwdriver you want. Need a stubby screwdriver? Put in a short shaft. Need extra reach for some reason, get a longer one!
Not all snap on have those. Mine are all fixed shaft like the one he tested. I have 6, different lengths, fixed shaft. The thing I don’t understand is the focus on bit storage. I don’t keep any bits in the handle. I have a case that has all my bits. It works for tool control and is faster than opening up the handle to find a different bit.
So far I watch 3 video and no one has disclaiming the quality of the LTT driver. Honestly I’m impressed with the care they took putting it together. They could have coasted on the brand recognition but they chose to actually create a quality product. My hat goes to LTT for caring
Yeah I'm saving my pennies for one ;) if the handle breaks in my hand like my Wera did I'll cuss Linus like anything, but him n his team seem to have thought the design through pretty well...?
Ooh Me-Oww! They sure look good to me - I bet as soon as I put a favourable review up, I'll just be an "ad" ;) - from all I've read these things are class. Not cheap, but .. Class
@@petegaslondon I doubt you will be an ad, but I guess that depends on how many followers you have. I am sure there are worse screwdrivers that you could buy, there are also better ones that cost less but aren't marketed to fanboys.
The expansion card screws on my case can only be reached by feeding the driver through a set of holes above them (WHY???) so I was looking for a review with the shaft dimensions specifically. Thanks! But sadly even the LTT driver won't fit, they're only 8mm wide.
Shucks! There's always that odd screw. That's why I still have a couple sets of thin-shaft drivers like the Gamers Nexus ones. There's always some case designer who doesn't understand clearance issues :P
I wonder if the covering set of holes is a plastic part that is removable, because I have a case for a few years and just recently found out I could just remove the plastic bracket to make screwing so much easier.
@@trunghung03 No it's metal and fixed :( such a dumb design. But I love the rest of the case. It's a full-height ATX HTPC style which is hard to find these days.
Nice review, it touched more on kind of use cases that users are actually about to do, even though the destructive testing is fun as well. For example, the static top that could be used to apply more force is a very nice thing that I never thought even looking for.
It's the little details, and it takes more time using a driver before you realize the little quirks that are either brilliant or obnoxious. I may do a follow up after a month or two.
@@JeffGeerling just a idea: make a DIY/custom windows tablet PC with a SBC(khadas/rockpi/odroid or LattePanda or snapdragon 845). You can use a body/case of a cheap handheldconsole as body/case or product a case by a 3D Printer and use razer kishi or razer kishi-like gamepad.
As a Manager for a tire shop, getting a tools from the truck is essential for me and the guys there. I have the snap on screwdriver and i use it mostly for building pcs and some car stuff. Great review on the tools! Def look forward for more content!
I can vouch for the Snap On being durable. I've had an orange handle SSDMR4B since 1996. It was part of a set that also included a small 1/4" ratchet and extension (both since lost). The orange has faded to almost yellow. The handle and blade are a bit too chunky for some PC assembly or repair work, especially with SFF or USFF cases, but if I can use it, I generally do.
I've had a Snap-On SSDMR4 like the 4B you tested, for nearly 30 years. I've used it as my main screwdriver that entire time - on hundreds of computers and household tasks - and it still works and looks like new despite my abuse. It may not have as many bits as the others, but the ones it does have always worked fine for my tasks. I can't recommend it enough.
If you need the hex for extra torque, you need an impact driver. The bit won't climb out of the screw's head. They are also needed to remover screws from cast aluminum if it was installed with thread locker or is corroded.
@@hillppari Heh, I think he means the hex shaft or a hex part on the driver shaft, for more leverage. And yeah, the Wera was the only one that was camming out, so giving it more torque probably wouldn't make a huge difference either way.
23:10 One thing to note: I'm pretty sure the shaft is extensible/collapsible on Amartisan. I think the experience would have been much better if you collapsed the shaft, since it would have been much more stable.
When removing screws, sometimes you need extra grunt / elbow grease / torque. That's why I prefer handles with a HOLE at the top. Sure they're good for hanging on toolbars- but when you stick a second screwdriver through that hole the resulting T shape can be just what you need.
I recently learned why my Snap-on screwdrivers have that little hex shape molded into the shaft: it's to attach a wrench when you really need the extra torque but aren't committed enough to use gelignite.
@@j_taylor Many screwdrivers have either a full hex shank or a small length of hex at the end of the handle so that you can put a small wrench on the end and torque it. But if you do need lots of torque you're better off just using an impact driver. Something like Jeff's 2x3 test may be interesting as an experiment and useful as a test for comparing how they feel under a more extreme (for the tool) use case, but realistically it would take less time and effort to just get my impact and use it for a similar circumstance.
I like that you included Doyle in this test but they are really made for the auto/ industrial type applications, that’s why it’s so beefy. Trying to take rusty screws out you need to be able to really bear down on one. I have one and I don’t like it for electronics or even doing electrical work in the house because of the weight, but when I use it on the car it’s the best thing in the world.
@@RsFrag3d however, as a fellow mechanic, I appreciate that he included it as I do want a ratcheting screwdriver for both automotive and home use and wanted to know how it stacks up before I purchase one. Heft itself doesn't bother me, if I want a lighter screwdriver I'll carry one of my Snap-On screwdrivers, but for something to be able to grab quickly and use.
He also failed to mention one of the biggest draws about the Doyle: it has 3 different (very common) nut drivers built in. There are also lots of other things too.. The ratchet selector he complains about is actually pretty handy.. You can easily switch it with your thumb. I have several of those doyles (cause they are super cheap) and I use them for all kinds of shit.. Working on cars, general house work, construction, etc. I've dropped them off of a roof (more than once) and ran over them with a 1 ton trailer. Hell, I've used them to start nails or hammer out cotter pins. All 3 that I have still work with no real problems. Sure, they get dirty (it's a fuckin tool...), and you aren't gonna thread a needle with them or anything. You also don't feel like you are gonna break it when you use it.. Thing is built like a Lincoln. If you are looking for an awesome, multipurpose, dirt cheap screwdriver, don't let this video dissuade you.
@@BrazenNL Family comes from NL a couple generations ago, we still wear our orange shirts every World Cup, and are torn the few times the US ever plays NL :)
Just want to say here, I appreciate you and every other creator who puts in the time and effort (or money), to get proper closed captions on your videos. It makes watching and following along way easier, and im sure it's even more helpful to people who have impaired hearing. And it makes make watching at 2x speed (which I do) less like a lesser experience. Its not something you always notice, but you always miss them when they're gone. P.s. TODO: *Transcribe spoken words from **18:30** to **20:13* lul Edit: not really complaining but there also seems to be some more script in the "touch wood" section, like you didn't say those things out loud but they are in the closed captions.
Every channel over 100,000 subscribers should have CC. It's not just an important accessibility feature that's been kind of neglected in the internet era, but it's also really useful and not hard to implement especially for those producing scripted content.
Absolutely agree that CC are very nice to have. I appreciate it as well! About your edit: Starting at the touch wood section till the end of the video, all the CC are about 5minutes ahead of the video itself.
Thank you, and also sorry about the issue... we had some captioning issues with this one :( Should be fixed now. Also, I care deeply about accessibility and wish I could do more. Honestly captions are the least we can do, it is not super expensive to take the time and do it. I have someone who helps me with them, but usually we have a day or so to work on them. Today's video was uploaded right before I went to bed las night lol.
For wear and tear, I'd like to have seen them all thrown into a cement mixer along some stones and left there running for 12h so we could get a decent finish wearing and to get some debris on the mechanism to check how well they fare.
I was actually trying to get that to happen-it was going to be the segment that was me scratching the drivers with an HF screwdriver-but my health issues prevented that shoot from happening :(
That would most likely destroy all of the rachet mechanisms. You're not even supposed to use the butt of the driver to hammer something into place because the shock from using it as a bumper can damage the rachet.
@@unfortunatelyrob2635 They actually make a screwdriver that is purpose built to be used like that for stuck screws. You hit it with a hammer and the internal mechanism uses the blow to turn the bit.
I think the Gamer's Nexus bit-change is highly variable! Can be anywhere from "grab it" (1s) to "dang it, it must be somewhere below the saw in the toolbox" (5 minutes). Same with the other loose bits of course :D
I think the demonstration in the video here shows average 'bit change' time for the GN set pretty well. The "5 minutes because it's under the saw in the tool box' could just as easily be 30 minutes to run to the store to buy new bits on any of the other drivers if you drop the one you need and it vanishes. I've lost plenty of them rolling off a tail gate and in to grass or gravel, so over all I'd say the set of non-bit drivers is actually better for finding lost or dropped 'bits'.
As far as the bits coming with oil on them, that is a good thing as it prevents rust. Would you rather have oily bits out of the box or rusty bits? Something to think about
Fantastic test, Jeff!!! I also found that Chinese screwdrivers sometimes are worth the small expense than professional and expensive ones! I have a box with fixed screwdrivers purchased almost 8 years ago in a food discount market (German Europe-wide chain Lidl) selling garage tools for cheap sometimes. They surprise me every day: last long, don’t wear much also with heavy work, and magnetic tips lasted until today!!!
I think the Williams is so close to being a wonderful product but the lack of a bit organizer is a deal breaker. If I'm up on a ladder fiddling with my ceiling fan or a light fixture, the last thing I want to do it pour out all my bits and try to funnel them back in. For the price, the Williams is a great value but for the practicality, I can't say that I agree that it would be a good buy. I'd rather go a step up to the Wera.
Yeah they should consider making a variant of their product. Or maybe just 3D print your own little bit carousel that fits in there? Also screw down caps are a bad idea, it should be a bayonet cap if anything.
@@helloukw Nope! I'm Dutch lol. PB Swiss is just very expensive outside of Europe. And the LTT screwdriver is $100+ here after shipping and import duties.
Love that you took the time to run through these. I actually wouldn't have minded if you went further with a prying test for each. I think some materials may be "harder" or less susceptible to scratching, but may also be more brittle.
I tend not to like the big “easy to use” selector because I’ll have the screwdriver in a tight area and something rubbing up against it switches it. I think Linus even reversed his switch from the industry standard that helps prevent that, so when you put it in a tight spot it will switch to the opposite direction of the working turn. Although I prefer a very high quality 5in1. I can just loosen my grip to get a ratcheting effect. It’s not like a wrench vs a ratcheting wrench which are basically two different tools.
if something is interfering with the selector enough for it to switch when you turn the driver, why does it matter which way it goes? even with a reversed selector won't it still switch when you try to reverse and prevent the ratchet from working anyways?
@@TwinStar229 I think the idea is that if you're turning the driver and the selector catches, for most drivers it will continue turning. But with the LTT driver, it will free spin.
@@SixOThree you're absolutely correct, and I think anyone wanting to use it professionally should definitely consider that. my thinking is that this driver really isnt a good pick for an industrial setting (automotive, electrician, etc.) despite their enthusiasm. In a more "everyday" use case of home/hobby electronics, random home maintenance, those scenarios are much less likely and having a bit extender on hand would still be a better solution than grinding the selector against whatever caught it. I have personally ordered one, so I guess I will find out the hard way eventually :p
This was a great review, Jeff - nice work! I always think I should buy a ratcheting screwdriver for PC building then run into some clearance issues - and then realise why I prefer to use regular screwdrivers! Also, does that KNVB shirt have your name on it?
For years Stanley was my go to, then I discovered Wera. The grip is designed to be held diagonally across it. You naturally get a mix of downward force and cross torque with the butt nestling into the palm of your hand.
I'll stcik with the $20 Craftsman screwdriver I've been using for the last 30 years. For work on laptops I have a "Project Source" 18-piece set that I got for Christmass several years ago.
I have always been a Craftsman tool or Proto tool person over the years. Have just started purchasing Klein Tools recently and love them. The Klein 32303 & 32308 screwdriver set from Home Depot is a great product and a very good value at around $25 US for the set of two. Really like the adjustable screwdriver shaft length & large selection of bits in the handle.
I recently switched from Wera to PB Swiss screwdrivers and I absolutely love the quality of them! As for ratcheting screwdrivers: I actually don't know a single professional who uses them. Be it on construction sites or in IT/computer repair. Even non-ratcheting screwdrivers with bits are somewhat rare and at best used for some oddball security screws.
I've had one of those Snap-on drivers for 22 years. It is literally the best tool purchase I ever made. It didn't cost almost $100 back then - only $50, which is still TOO expensive for a flippin screwdriver. But After carrying it in my back pocket for years, it has earned a special place in my heart. One of the most aggravating things I've noticed about cheaper ratcheting screwdrivers is the selector mechanism. Most of the cheap ones twist in the opposite direction that you're about to screw. That's REALLY annoying after you've gotten used to one that does it "the right way" - meaning you twist the selector clock-wise to screw something clock-wise not ratchet clock-wise. Also, another "feature" I've noticed with cheap ratchets is that the selector gets turned by accident when you have to hunker down and drive something requiring some torque. (I'm looking at you Hart/Walmart brand ratchet driver!) There's another area that I haven't seen any reviewer mention - maybe because they haven't had their driver very long. But after some time, the ratchet mechanism will get dirty and will need cleaned and re-lubed. With the Snap-on (and I assume the Williams, because it looks like a clone), you can easily disassemble the driver and ratchet mechanism, clean it, and reassemble it to make it feel brand new. The last thing I don't see reviewers mention is the quality of the bits - not necessarily strength - you can only supply so much torque with your hand - but the bits ability to grip the fastener head and NOT cam out. Snap-on bits have always performed excellently for me in this regard - to the point of when I lose a bit, I buy a Snap-on replacement. They're honestly that much better at not camming out - specifically the philips head bits - and are worth the extra money not to strip out fastener heads. The Achilles heel of the Snap-on driver is the way it handles bit storage. Compared to more modern designs, Snap-on is severely lacking. The tail cap of the driver interferes with the bit storage when you have several bits in there, and it's just not organized or efficient. If I could change that, I would give the Snap-on a perfect score.
Glad to see the Williams recommended! I put in a bunch of research on ratcheting screwdrivers early this year and ended up with the Williams myself. Would have got a Megapro, but the model I wanted was out of stock everywhere. It's really a superb value, especially when you consider that SnapOn feels comfortable charging almost $100 for their rebranded version. Fun fact: You can disassemble the Williams, remove a retaining ring on the blade, and put in SnapOn's interchangeable blades for their soft handle model. It holds well enough that it won't fall out and requires a minor amount of force to remove. I'd assume you can fit the retaining ring back on for a more permanent fit if desired. They're about 30 a piece which defeats the value aspect, but allows for some flexibility in blade length and fixes the lack of knurling
I have a Snap On that was given to me as a gift over 30 years ago. Been used for everything from pc building to construction. Looks a little dirty, but still works great. I also have a DeWalt, which you didn’t test. It’s major flaw is that it is a fair bit longer, and thus more awkward in many situations.
I worked as a mechanic for 15 years in several shops. Every mechanic I have ever worked with owned that Snap On ratcheting screwdriver and I still own mine. The warranty is second to none and is the best screwdriver hands down I have ever used.
You have the Good Version of the Snap On Ratcheting Screwdriver. I had two, One was the Ratcheting Screwdriver and the other a Ratcheting 1/4" Drive. They look the same except for the tip. Each was 35 Years Old. The 1/4" Drive finally broke after 35 years and Snap On replaced it with a new one. What a piece of garbage. It weighs less than half as much, the ratchet is nowhere near as smooth and after a week it came apart while using it. I have put it back together three times now. The gear assembly keeps popping apart. My 35 year old Ratcheting Screwdriver is still going strong. Unfortunately they do not make rebuild kits for the old ones so you are forced into the new model.
I'd love to see a quality ratchet driver with special bots that are just like the metal part of a regular screw driver but with the hex part at the end, and the hex nut embedded in the ratchet driver's shaft. So you get the combined advantages of both the thin blade of a regular screw driver plus the ratchet mechanism and interchangeability of bits.
I have the Wera Kraftform 816 RA. It's a ratchet handle with the bit holder right above it. Then I put in 3" long bits. Got it for $25 a couple years ago, before the price jump. I do sometimes wish it extended out like some of wera's other models or had a bit holder in the handle like these.
Thank you for covering how well you were able to grip the driver handles. No other review I've seen covered that yet it's a very important part of the driver.
Another aspect which I think is important is the rotating end, I often get horrible blister in the palm as occasionally I have to put a lot of torque into it and forget I get blisters, and then.. I get a blister which I feel just as I finished :)
I also came to the same conclusion that the WIlliams or the MegaPro Automotive edition are probably best for most people as they cover most of the features of the LTT screwdriver at around half the cost ($40). Personally I ended up getting something around $20 because I know I won't use the screwdriver super often, but it's still something useful to have around for the few situations when I need it.
I really enjoyed the bit change on the Gamers Nexus. I do like a flippy style screwdriver, though I'm frustrated when I think a bit is "small flip to change size" and it's actually "small flip to change Phillips to straight" (or vice versa)...
What a small world. I bought your ansible book the other day and then randomly searched YT for a review of the screwdriver and you came up. A dude of many talents :)
PF's videos are always stellar. This video draws some inspiration from his style, but I figured I'd give a little more from the IT/user experience perspective (PF is all about that data).
The LTT seems solid if you're willing to drop $80(plus $7 for me since I need torx bits for my knives) but the Williams is a nice middle option. For $15 I think the Amazon Basics isn't too bad. Sure it has a bit more slop but the materials seemed nice, nice storage for bits (plus they're standard size so I can fit 12 of tho bits I have vs 6 in LTT) and at 6th or 10th the price I think you get 80%-90% of the performance.
Bought ratchet driver with bits separately in the box for like £10 from LIDL, I have tried to use the ratchet don't really like it, just put it in the middle setting which is disabling the ratchet and makes it ordinary driver. All I need is just rotating end, one with bearing from ifixit is nice.
I like that you’re using the Zoom H6 for recording audio! It’s an amazingly versatile device, used to have one. Otherwise, I really appreciate the great and in-depth review. Definitely hoping to get the LTT screwdriver at some point :)
i think the wera drivers just feels so good in the hand and the price is decent. also with a solid screw driver like the gamers nexus one its easy to magnetize it with a magnet if you need more strength and sometimes you just cant beat the simplicity and compactness of a regular driver, im glad you included them in the video
Definitely! I love having multiple straight shaft drivers, because they always win when there's a clearance issue. Not as useful for high torque, but if you're pulling that hard on a PC build or in a rack, then you might be doing something wrong :D
@@JeffGeerling I prefer regular screwdrivers too. It's a rare occasion when the screws are all the same and so it's quite normal for me to use 6 screwdrivers at any one time. I think it would be a pain in the ass to keep switching bits. Although i do see the use case for bit screwdrivers for obscure bit sizes and styles, and to have one in the car or similar.
I have to say, performance aside I really like the design of the Amazon basics screwdriver. Amazon is evil but I like the idea of having a more accessible line of basic consumer goods that give people who aren’t experts or who don’t have a large budget an option to get what I would consider pretty necessary items.
We know that LTT worked with megapro, so there you said that technology is certainly legitimate. Did Amazon? Did they bother to pay for the patent that they're infringing on? I doubt it.
@@edwardallenthree What are you talking about? It's a ratcheting screwdriver, there are dozens of them on the market. The AmazonBasics is clearly a different design than the MegaPro. MegaPro is not the only manufacturer of ratcheting screwdrivers.
@@edwardallenthree what makes you think that Amazon didn't pay for licensing - if they really used a patented mechanism? I guess it's just your hate for Amazon. Correct?
I never realized why I hated my Klein ratcheting driver so much until now…. It’s identical to the Doyle. Just bought a megapro to replace it because I didn’t feel like paying for the LTT… sorry Linus lol.
Linus shouldn't price his driver so high. It's not a professional grade tool especially with the low product volume. If I'm gonna pay that much you best be able to have a warranty like snap on. I left my Snap on a exhaust manifold the handle melted. Next week I hand my snap on guy the melted driver he handed me a new one.
@@thedarkmage7373 Can you explain what you mean by "professional grade tool" in this context? Looking at both this review and the one by Project Farm the LTT seemed to perform just right if not well for it's price point. But maybe I'm not understanding the term you are using.
@@thedarkmage7373 It sounds like you have a good relationship with your Snap-on guy. What would you suggest to a casual home user, someone who doesn't have that relationship? I bought some tools off their web store.
I said it on LTT and I'll say it here, for all their development LTT missed the mark on colour scheme. Work spaces are not always brightly lit, don't drop the LTT into a dark engine bay or raised server room.
Most likely they went with black because it was the cheapest option. That matte black will just blend in to dark areas. That’s the problem they designed this for them in their shop that’s well lit and big tables and thought the black looked cool.
14:55 the bit change for the PB Swiss was unrealistic and you gave it an advantage over the real life scenario. In real use scenarios when you want to change the bit you'd not conveniently have the extra bits next to you all lined up, instead you'd have them in the case or tossed loosely off in a tool drawer or toolbag or whatever, so you forgot to account for the time to go walk over to your tool area, open the drawer, pull out the pb swiss case, open it, and figure out which of those bit holders has the bit you need, then you can proceed with the bit swap, then afterwards toss the extra bits back in the drawer or whatever.
Honestly watching the videos about this made me go out and get the Amazon Basics. It does the job, is shockingly cheap, and the bit storage is impressive. Ratchet does require more force than I'd like, but it's absolutely fine for two-handed operation.
This should have been the start of the whole review. In the end it's nothing more than a luxury product. I have been working as a professional for over 20 years. Most screwdrivers are fine, as long as the tips are sharp and hard enough. I consider screwing computer parts as one of the lightest use cases. At home I still use screwdrivers that are over 40 years old that used to be my grandfather's.
The Pb Swiss with internal bit storage is less than half the price than the LTT one over here. The one you're using there, with the case and a lot of bits, is also still cheaper than the LTT one. I mean... I like LTT, but that's just way too expensive for me. They're literally priced above the premium brand.
I fixed planes in the Air Force, Snap-on tools were the main tools we used, those square handles are not ergonomic at all and I don't foresee them changing it my lifetime. Why? Because a good ol' Crescent wrench will give you that extra torque, and the handle lasts forever. I'm pretty sure the ratchet driver is only square to keep the design language the same across the board, but you shouldn't really be wrenching on them hard unless you want to strip the ratchet gears. But like you said, Snap-on would have a new ratchet rebuild kit the same day if it's on the truck. Why replace the whole tool if the handle is indestructible??
You was lucky. When I was in the AF working B52s we had el cheapo tools in our boxes. When another base closed and sent us all their snap on tools. We thought finally we get some good tools. Yet our tool crib threw them out as unserviceable. So you know someone in the tool crib got some nice tools at home lol
@@JechtAruon I may or may not have some tools that were headed to the recycling bin. We've recycled entire tool boxes before, so I'm not surprised they chucked em. Especially when you need to scrape serials, and re-etch your own tool crib codes on them. 2 years of heavy use plus corrosion mx will make them look like shit, but they were probably fine to use.
I really didn't like it's ratchet, it was a bit tight. The bitholder is nice in how much it stores, but it was a lot less convenient than the Megapro design that can spin freely. It is a good value (certainly way better than the Doyle or Amartisan) though, and the plastics hold up well. I wouldn't use it for anything more than light projects though-it was the only ratchet that seemed to slip here and there.
You literally didn't watch the video whatsoever. LTT's screwdriver stacks up well even against the more expensive ones. Stop being a hater for no reason.
@@kadrix732 having watched both this video and the project farm one i can say that it is in the middle of the pack at best. The job determines which tool is best not the manufacturer. A strong magnet looks great for holding screws. Until you drop it on your workbench between you metal work and you end up with a metal toilet brush. They talk about reaching difficult places, but the real tool brands sell non ratcheting extended shaft length tools for hard to reach places. Those shafts are much thinner. The special size of the bit forces you back to the Linus store. And their bit selection isn't that great and they are a wear item. Hp for example and many others use a single screw head size. So the advantages of switching bits is minor. It's a megapro with a few minor thrills and double the price. A pro has a workbench and tool rack. Not this Amateur thing.
@@bzuidgeest First of all, sorry for the late reply, I just got to this. Look, I agree that the job determines the tools that's best. And I'm not saying that this screwdriver is the best thing in the world. But it's definitely not "shit" like many people say it is. "The special size of the bit forces you back to the Linus store." Straight up false. They give you shorter bits, you're not required to use their own bits. Bits don't last forever in any case, they're replaceable for a reason. "It's a megapro with a few minor thrills and double the price." You're not buying it for value. You're buying it to mostly support a creator. However, unlike other creators which would shamelessly slap their logo onto absolute shit, Linus went a few steps above those people and designed something half decent. "A pro has a workbench and tool rack." Not everything requires a workbench. Not everything requires a million tools either. "Not this Amateur thing." So, is the PB Swiss an amateur thing too? Just because you don't like the tool, just because you don't want to use this tool, doesn't mean other people dislike it and don't want to use it. I'm so sick of people having such stupid arguments, using their own views and trying to make them sound like an objective fact. Some people are talking about this thing like it's a complete piece of shit which is in reality worth $7. Try getting a tool for 7 bucks, but don't complain when it falls apart on you.
@@kadrix732 again you say he designed something. Specifying is not designing. He took an existing model and specified some extras. They might be good choices, but that does not make it designing. And is the PB swiss and amateur tool? In my opinion yes. It's not as expensive in Europe as in the US. But a nice tool, if you want to screw in a light fixture with quality. Every tool has its uses, sure. But claiming this specific one is something special, no. The sweeping language use by Linus, like it's going to replace every tool in every job, no. His fans treating this like mana from the gods, no and more no. If you want to support him as a content creator, it's fine, buy one. But the credit for implementing and thus designing it belongs to megapro staff, not Linus. He made a little more effort then slapping a sticker on something from Alibaba, but a lot of creators do more. Want to buy more tools? Buy some wrenches from hand tool rescue. At least he is not claiming he designed them. Though he actually makes them. And yes you can use normal bits, but then it only takes six not the twelve. Even the Amazon basic takes 12 normal ones. So yes for full functionality you are stuck with Linus. Vendor lock.
Don't forget. You get the exclusive trust me bro warranty with the LTT one. Wera makes some of the best screwdrivers out there in my experience. Been using a couple for 25 years at this point. Still as good as new.
Interesting video thanks for making it. As for your video at about 6:40 when you spoke about oily bits, I laughed. Many if not all good quality tools have corrosion protection on the tools. Sockets, screwdrivers, feeler gauges and the list goes on. I have seen tools sit on shelves for long periods of time and some do rust without protection on them.
Oiled is fine, but the amount of oil was as much as I normally see on HF tools, where there were drips on a couple bits. I only mention it because oily is okay, but dripping with oil is annoying (IMO).
I would have liked to see a Megapro (maybe the Automotive?) compared to the LTT since it's based on a Megapro design and even licenses the ratchet patent and iterates on it.
Eh, I've used Wera manual screwdrivers (extra long blade) to build/repair over 50,000 PCs in my 25+ career. A ratcheting screwdriver is just overpriced and gimmicky. They are too short, too bulky, and the ones with the screw on caps are super annoying because the caps always come undone while using.
Hi Jeff, completley off topic, but i just wanted to say tank you so much. That you, Tom (Lawrence Tech) and Steve (Gamers Nexus) don't add a stupid amount of "boomyness" to mic or loud background music or other crap that i can watch it very very easy and it does not stress me with ear fatugue or so. thank you. keep doing what you did so far.
Sure thing! I also enjoy listening with only the occasional filler music, and not the streaming-style background music. To me it just ends up being distracting here and there.
Other people have probably pointed this out, but metal has to be shipped oily if theres cardboard involved! The tannins in the cardboard will cause rusting on metal, especially if it has to sit in a warehouse before shipping, or in customs if its international. Not always fun to clean before use, but better that then recieve a rusted bit!
I did LOL at 16:32, Jeff! I have a lot of screwdrivers. I have and love the GN set when I need something precision and slop is unacceptable/likely to strip a screw or something. I'm really glad I bought them because they're literally made for tight clearance and torqued down GPU screws that are sometimes both really small and really easy to strip with a lesser driver. I don't generally take apart GPUs, but they're really handy when working with delicate electronics. My iFixit kit should do the same work, and I freakin' love the Mako driver in their Pro Tech toolkit for small work. It's not the most comfortable for PC building, but it does work. Unless the driver's too big. I've got a Wiha driver that takes my Mako bits because it's absolutely tiny compared even to the Mako without being like an eyeglass or PH#00 SSD retention screw driver that came with a Chinese no-name PCIe/m.2 adapter. You know the kind. The Wiha doesn't feel as nice, but … yeah. I've got something between the two made of aluminum that was like a CenturyStink freebie … No idea where I got it, but it's got storage for its 4mm hex bits in the handle. I don't like it, but … it does get used more than I'd like to admit. I wanted to love the iFixit Mahi driver. I don't, it feels weighty and has a good spinny cap, but its magnet is weak-sauce. My Klein PH#2 gets a lot of work building machines. I tend to toss a magnet on the blade when I need one rather than magnetizing and demagnetizing the tip constantly. It's not ideal but it's my standard time to build a PC fixed blade driver, mostly because between it and the Mako, I have what I need for PC building. Again, I wish I could say the Mahi serves me well here, but it really doesn't. My ratcheting driver, the only one I've got, is a big Stanley. It's got as much slop as the worst you have there, and it's honestly too big. I'm really eying that Wera to replace it. There just doesn't seem to be one driver that does everything, y'know?
I own that specific Wera and I really like it. However I often use solid screwdrivers and a Non-Rachet Draper I have use for 35 years, All the bits are still perfect.
5:37 - LOL! LOL! As an aircraft structures & sheet metal mechanic I have seen many mechanics with these house-sized Snap-On toolboxes! All bought via high-interest financing! They think they are so cool with their giant Snap-On tool boxes!
Only about 1/4 of the way through, but thanks in advance for taking the time to test us out!
I love your presentation style and u can see a lot of time and care was put into making this a shockingly digestible 30 minutes video :D - LS
There it is.
Huge shout-out to Nick, who helped get the drivers sent out amidst a pretty crazy-sounding week at the LMG HQ!
Wow Jeff you're fast!
That crazy to think me and Linus were watching the same video at the same time
Just finished it! Linus, good job👍
Sadly, there's no real point for fans from the EU to buy it or anything from the LTT store because shipping costs are way too high.
Hi Jeff, "Very Impressive" review!! Looking forward to more of your upcoming reviews!
Haha I can NOT not read this comment in your voice.
Honestly I was relieved when I saw your review and had mostly similar results, I love how you explain your setups and I'm sure you could see how some of the parts of this video were inspired by your channel!
The legend himself. Been watching you for years keep up the great work!
If Project Farm thinks a review is good, you know something went terribly wrong.
quotation marks is genuine emphasis right?
@@Gergus it’s his “catchphrase”
The oil on the driver bits may actually be a feature. Prevents any oxidation or corrosion while the kit sits in a warehouse waiting for someone to buy it.
True, true.
Engineers will often apply a fine film of a oil to their tools throughout the life time of the tool for this exact reason.
And though I don't think it's launched yet, much of the conversation around development was future ability to pick between a few load-outs of bits. Given that plan I think leaving them separate from the driver itself allows purchase of multiple SKU's without the issue of multiple assembly tracks. Also cheaper than paying someone to insert bits in drivers (probably by a lot).
@@JeffGeerling it's a very common industry practice.
@@fezik8870 there final assembly is done in canada so it certainly is.
Love the video, I will say the "bit switch speed" was a bit unfair because you know with the PB Swiss there will be a 10-30 minute penalty where you're walking around looking for the bit storage brick that you "left somewhere you wouldn't forget it"
True
mine are in my pockets, so more like 60 minutes
@@b1battledroid476 truest response of all time.
'I just had it right f'ing here' truer words never spoken.
Remember, switching to your sidearm is always faster than reloading.
Oil on metal parts actually helps act as a rust preventative as someone who works more on the manufacturing side of metal production. We have customers that literally require us to oil their stuff before we send it back to them for example. I'd rather have oiled bits than rusty bits when it comes down to it.
they could've just used a material that doesn't rust lol
y'know... like the rest
@@jonathanlarsen4177 even stainless steel is susceptible to rust. Using oil literally prevents it from rusting regardless. The metal they used is quite a good tool steel and using oil is actually smart. Sure say they could've gone with a high speed or something zwear assuming it wouldn't rust cost still goes up and it doesn't mean it's suited for a use like driver bits. Shockingly not all metals are suited for all jobs. Oiling them also means they could sit on shelves for months without any concern. Just knock off the "lol just do better" keyboard warrior bs. I have customers that want all their tool steels oiled and there's a reason for it. Its steel. It's susceptible to rusting.
@@Blue-cq2hl If anything, specialty stainless steels (hardenable, martensitic types, designed as tool/knife steels or HSS) that are really good for tools will be a bit less corrosion resistant than such that are optimized for corrosion resistance above anything else (eg the austenitic 304 type used for pots and pans). And sometimes non-stainless specialty steels will be the best choice for tools (or the best choice for an affordable but high performance tool) - for example, some of the best electronics cutter brands use non-stainless carbon tool steel for good reasons. You could probably make them equally good if you went for some of the really high end stainless and semi-stainless (HAP/YXR series, Crucible CPM-S series, probably also alloys like VG10 knife steel) - it will add cost, not just for the steel but also because any post-heat-treatment finishing needed will wear out the factory tools much more/need more or more expensive abrasives/....
Glad someone mentioned it.
Like yeah you can add a finish to the tool. But it is metal on metal eventually that finish will wear and rust will begin.
But by oiling the bits they stay rust free.
Im sure it was a cost compromise especially with the extra bits that can be ordered.
But it shows a level of attention to detail and understanding of the product that they did oil the parts.
For example if these dont seel/ ship fast for any reason the bits are protected from rust while on shelves in stores warehouses or while being shipped overseas by boat(if that happens) so when the customer receives them they will be a bit oily but also rust free.
There are also specific considerations when it's a tool used for electronics, oily residue is a no-go
I like that the ltt driver is the one that got dropped the most. They really should have had it drop rated lol
There is no knurling or texture on the handle, it looks slippery.
It even get the infamous "dropped by Linus" during manufacturing itself!!!😅
I like that the LTT screw driver being dropped had that LTT quality you come to expect from one of Linus's videos. :P
If it survived Linus testing the screwdriver, it's already drop rated past what any normal human will subject it to.
It's also thematically appropriate given Linus himself = P
The biggest complaint I have as a mechanic with "Grippy" handle or rubberized handles is that once you start getting greases and oils on them, they start falling apart and/or getting really nasty sticky feeling to them. This is something that is not considered "Warrantable" by the tool companies I have dealt with.
The hard handles wipe off and are good for life.
Like every Microsoft mouse with simple skin oils. Ugh. The Wera stuff holds up super well, IMO.
Talon grip tape and everyone is happy :)
Not a fan of rubberized handles for that reason. They dissolve. Meanwhile, 30 year old craftsman and snap on handles are just fine. And I’m not even a snap on fan, but I’ve seen the good qualities they have.
I agree, rubbery handles are not that great.
I laughed so hard at "is itt better than our sponsor?" hahaha The LTT segue is legendary, Great video man. Hope you're doing good with your health, always keep you in my thoughts and prayers I now what it's like to live with a chronic illness, I was born with a rare kidney/liver disease and have had 3 transplants in my life and live with pain every day. UA-cam is my way to keep my head in a good place. 🙂
The hangup for me on the Williams would be the "just toss em in there" nature of the bit storage. Probably just a personal pet peeve but it drives me bonkers hearing bits rattling around inside while I'm working.
Same here.
I often find myself working on a ladder so that would also be an issue for me. Also that the screw-on cap is loose and could fall to the ground.
Not to mention the pain of sifting through them to find what you want..
@@brettwalkom948 Especially when you have put five or six more in there.
A removable cap and loose bits is a constant source of anxiety whenever I’ve used the workshop’s Snap-on while working on electronics OR automobiles. Sorry Snap-on and clones, but that’s a hard no.
I like the review, one thing to point out is that the rubber handles drivers tend to hold onto dirt and debris over time. Sweat and greases can cause them to break down quicker.
I like to call that 'patina' :D
Though the smell can be too much at times.
Sweat, greases, dishwashers, non-polar solvents, sunlight, age... Just Say No to rubberized and soft-touch plastics.
Why you should wipe down your tools after use.
recently got a force driver that uses bits (no storage) with a rubberized handle , it fits so well in my hand that for 4$ I will gladly change it out to the same one when the rubber wars out and gets sticky.
@@Vegemeister1 No. Soft grips are nice. Get used to the real world.
Should someone ever told me that I'll spend 30 minutes watching screwdriver review, I'd tell him to think again. Yet, here we are...
And ditto as well. We all in this together bro
This is the second 30 minute screwdriver review I've watched in 2 days. What's wrong with me?
Just wait until UA-cam starts recommending Project Farm to you next week.
Robert, let's be honest, today in 2022 we are in position to watch Everything, no matter of personal interest :)
I watched 2 minutes. He is full of bullshavik and fanboy followings. Unless you are building numerous systems a day you need an ELECTRICAL screw gun.
It seems to me like the internal storage of the LTT and Amazon basics drivers are a good convenience feature and saves time in comparison to having bits stored seperately or loose in the handle. It is a shame the Amazon basics had such a poor ratchet and weak magnet, otherwise I could see that being quite a nice format for PC building.
Yeah, that product could probably be made to be a close match to the Williams if they produced it a little nicer, and bumped the price to $30 or so.
If only LTT made their screwdriver 10mm longer so it could accommodate 12 regular size bits instead of just 6.
The king d1ck (made in the uk, short for richard) stores 6 standard bits plus an extension. Has a great ratchet too. Costs 25 quid shipped
I feel the same about the amazon one, its already a compelling option as it is. Honestly I could see myself picking up an amazonbasics for general use, until I've saved up enough to comfortably drop $80 on the LTT driver as a gift to myself.
@@ianlehman8342 from what people said about the Amazon one during the live stream as a couple people had it is that it feels pretty decent out of the box however performance over time significantly degrades like the bit holder doesn't come out and the Ratchet progressively feels worse
Was glad to see PB Swiss and Wera represented in the comparison, nice review!
Except they are screwdrivers and none should ever cost $69.
@@rogerroger10-47 yes they should especially if you are a mechanic and you pay for top quality. That being I have Vessel, Wera, Wiha, PB Swiss and I've gotten all at lower prices than on the tool truck.
A rotating end is an overlooked feature... The ltt allows you to apply downward force at the end with palm and than spin with second hand without the end creating friction against your palm. It's the ultimate to prevent the driver from camming out and preventing damage to cheap fastener heads
It depends on one's technique.
Personally, if it needs that force to push it into the screw, I'll also be applying some additional torque through my palm to the screwdriver.
However, if one is spinning the shaft with one's fingers, having the end free to rotate means one hand can hold the screwdriver in a stable position and square to the fastener while spinning it with the other hand.
The precision screwdriver that came in my electronics repair kit has this and also a hole in the handle to insert the separate extension shaft and get some crazy torque out of it.
It's metal-on-metal and no bearing, so it squeaks like a mofo, though.
@@gordowg1wg145 This. I have an off-brand cheap screwdriver with a rotating end and it really conserves my energy due to me having to raise my arms above my head very often. It's so much better than using a driver with none and having to twist my arm in an already tiring position.
The rotating end is a make or break feature for me, maybe not quite the same application but I do a lot of industrial electrical work and using a terminating screwdriver without the rotating end would just be madness. Carpal tunnel waiting to happen.
@@tomdragon3881That's kind of what I was thinking you could get away with just getting one double-sided Phillips of two sizes in something like a Klein screwdriver and that would pretty much cover anything you run into in a PC side from the big thumb screws that some of them use on the back. It's thin it's narrow so there's more RPM per input and it's all fingers. At these prices I would get a super light duty electric screwdriver and a precision screwdriver with a button on the back. Then again I bought one for work and one of the young kids managed to pull off the button and lose it so it became very unpleasant to use.
I typically never respond to these discussions, however, for some reason feel compelled here. Excellent review overall, I must say - thank you!
As far as the ratcheting screwdrivers, I have been utilizing WERA for years. WERA makes various "grades" of ratcheting drivers, some even with adjustable torque control (miniature torque wrenches - both adjustable and factory preset for a specific purpose such as mass production of a specific part requiring a specific torque setting). I find all their tools to be top-notch and would have absolutely no hesitation in recommending them to anyone. For those concerned about cam-out of the screws, please utilize the "Laser Etched Anti-Cam-Out Bits" WERA offers. They are extremely grippy and will never cam-out. At least not in my extensive experience. WERA Bits are heat treated for hardness, typically with Rockwell Hardness Scale numbers of about 55 to 60, slightly less then the PB Swiss.
As for PB Swiss - they are fantastic. Absolutely top notch. I use these for jobs in which extreme precision is required. The bits are harder then the WERA bits, typically testing to a Rockwell Hardness Scale of 58 to 65. All are heat treated for hardness. I personally find the comfort grip handle design of the WERA System to be more comfortable for MY hand (size 7 glove, smallish hand for guys. Average male hand is a size 8). Nevertheless, personal preferences on the comfort of the handle aside (subjective), objectively, the PB Swiss will cope with a little more torque over WERA and the bits are harder. You get what you pay for.
In addition to WERA and PB Swiss, I have tried and own Snap-On, WIHA, Klein, Craftsman ("old Craftsman" from the 90's and earlier is TOTALLY different then "new Craftsman" that you purchase today with the older stuff so much better then the newer stuff, Dewalt, Stanley, and others. That being said, I personally own the complete line of WERA Tools, entire system, as well as PB Swiss. I have yet to have one break or need repair. I also own the complete Knipex System for pliers and other assorted tools. Hand-held power tools I go with Festool and Dewalt depending on the tool.
In conclusion, as a Master Machinist / Tool & Die Maker involved in precision work as well as heavy machining work in the aviation and motorsports industries specializing in making low volume production runs of parts that no one else can figure out how to machine, I would have NO PROBLEM recommending WERA and PB Swiss to anyone. Knipex for Wrenches and electrical wire cutters, pipe wrenches, etc.... You can't go wrong.
As for the review, as I said, overall, excellent. One aspect overlooked, however, is the bits! The same bit should have been used in ALL comparisons. This would have taken that variable out of the equation as the bits are significantly different. How can one compare of PB Swiss bit heat treated to a hardness of Rockwell 60 or WERA Laser Etched Anti-Cam-Out Bit in INOX Stainless Steel heat treated to a hardness of Rockwell 55 with a cheap Harbor Freight bit that has never been heat treated and is likely a Rockwell 20 at best, or, bits made from remelted scrap from the production of other products as opposed to centrifugally forged material specifically made for the creation of the hex stock for the bits? BIG DIFFERENCE!
*Note - All Rockwell Hardness Numbers quoted were obtained by MY OWN TESTING utilizing a Rockwell Hardness Tester which is verified to be in spec (yearly) and kept in a climate controlled measurements room for standardization of parts prior to the company who ordered the parts completing the sale. In other words, if specified tolerances are not met, hardness not met, etc..., they will not take the parts and I have lots of scrap on my hands, so, that CAN NOT happen. All information shared is MY OWN PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.
Thank you
Jonathan
Wera - I was very fond of mine (non ratchet, bits in handle) til I tried to lever something open with the flat bit and the whole screwdriver broke in my hand.. I kinda want another but they aint super-cheap, so I'm now hesitant, and wanna try the LTT
PB Swiss nice, very nice but even the LTT's way more than I'd usually pay for a screwdriver, so.. Nahhh sorry
Knipex are lovely but my last cheap cutters have great hardness, and I'd be less paranoid about breaking them cutting the 'wrong' kind of wire (or cutting something that turns out to be harder than expected) as they're not cheap either - maybe get one as my 'nice' cutters?
Trouble is Wera DO have some VERY sexy little tools - should I try again ;) ?
Yes do it they are absolutely worth it
The problem with these type of screwdrivers on a IT environment (PC specifically), is that there isn't long screws in the first place, maybe with the exception of water cooling radiators. And if you are dealing with a humongous number of screws, it would be best to simply invest in a powered one with adjustable torque setting.
I don't disagree; though if you also do a lot of rackmount and networking stuff (homelab united!), there are sometimes higher torque and/or longer screws involved.
I've never felt comfortable with powered screwdrivers with electronics. Never felt like I had enough of a feeling of control
@@azblurbit gotta get the finger control. Well I use my drill as a driver for a lot of things that I probably shouldn't when I'm feeling lazy 😅
@@azblurbit You can get one tailored for electronics, with torque values adequate for the job. There are bigger ones you would use for PCs and smaller ones for laptops.
You just can't beat a "normal" screw driver. I used cordless drillers as a screwdriver at work for 90% of the time but sometimes you need fine control or those long screwdrivers in a hard to reach place.
I never get screwed by Jeff Geerling vids.
Man, I wanted to make that joke!
*slow clap*
@@slendi9623 Hit the bell icon and be early every time!
@@MarcoGPUtuber Exactly, this is why people should subscribe and hit the bell icon to make sure good jokes aren't claimed!
Thats cool. Whats your credentials? Every video I see he is phsyically screwing in.
Thank you SO much for testing the proper Snappy driver. Also, thanks for giving prices “shipped”.
One thing about the Snap-on in these comparisons that nobody ever mentions: The shaft is a separate piece from the driver, and you can trade out the shaft for the length of screwdriver you want. Need a stubby screwdriver? Put in a short shaft. Need extra reach for some reason, get a longer one!
Aircraft structures mechanic here & I've always liked that about my Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver! Sometimes I need a super-long reach.
Not all snap on have those. Mine are all fixed shaft like the one he tested. I have 6, different lengths, fixed shaft. The thing I don’t understand is the focus on bit storage. I don’t keep any bits in the handle. I have a case that has all my bits. It works for tool control and is faster than opening up the handle to find a different bit.
So far I watch 3 video and no one has disclaiming the quality of the LTT driver. Honestly I’m impressed with the care they took putting it together. They could have coasted on the brand recognition but they chose to actually create a quality product. My hat goes to LTT for caring
Yeah I'm saving my pennies for one ;) if the handle breaks in my hand like my Wera did I'll cuss Linus like anything, but him n his team seem to have thought the design through pretty well...?
Have you watched a video with a genuine review, or just these adverts on youtube?
Ooh Me-Oww! They sure look good to me - I bet as soon as I put a favourable review up, I'll just be an "ad" ;) - from all I've read these things are class. Not cheap, but .. Class
@@petegaslondon I doubt you will be an ad, but I guess that depends on how many followers you have. I am sure there are worse screwdrivers that you could buy, there are also better ones that cost less but aren't marketed to fanboys.
@@-opus. Similar to others.
The expansion card screws on my case can only be reached by feeding the driver through a set of holes above them (WHY???) so I was looking for a review with the shaft dimensions specifically. Thanks! But sadly even the LTT driver won't fit, they're only 8mm wide.
Shucks! There's always that odd screw. That's why I still have a couple sets of thin-shaft drivers like the Gamers Nexus ones. There's always some case designer who doesn't understand clearance issues :P
@@JeffGeerling Hoping to see someone test long bits. There are bit with long thin shafts.
I wonder if the covering set of holes is a plastic part that is removable, because I have a case for a few years and just recently found out I could just remove the plastic bracket to make screwing so much easier.
@@trunghung03 No it's metal and fixed :( such a dumb design. But I love the rest of the case. It's a full-height ATX HTPC style which is hard to find these days.
In instances like that, a standard #2 Phillips screwdriver without interchangeable bits is the best tool.
Much like the screwdriver itself, i've been waiting for this review!
Thanks @Jeff!
Nice review, it touched more on kind of use cases that users are actually about to do, even though the destructive testing is fun as well.
For example, the static top that could be used to apply more force is a very nice thing that I never thought even looking for.
It's the little details, and it takes more time using a driver before you realize the little quirks that are either brilliant or obnoxious. I may do a follow up after a month or two.
@@JeffGeerling Please do! And stay well! 😎✌🏼
Having a top that screws off can be frustrating when applying force on it. The lid screws off or screws on too hard etc. So that was a good test.
@@JeffGeerling just a idea: make a DIY/custom windows tablet PC with a SBC(khadas/rockpi/odroid or LattePanda or snapdragon 845). You can use a body/case of a cheap handheldconsole as body/case or product a case by a 3D Printer and use razer kishi or razer kishi-like gamepad.
As a Manager for a tire shop, getting a tools from the truck is essential for me and the guys there. I have the snap on screwdriver and i use it mostly for building pcs and some car stuff. Great review on the tools! Def look forward for more content!
Doesn’t the snap on have a removable shaft?
Getting tools from a truck hasn't been essential for any self respecting mechanic in at least 15 yrars
I can vouch for the Snap On being durable. I've had an orange handle SSDMR4B since 1996. It was part of a set that also included a small 1/4" ratchet and extension (both since lost). The orange has faded to almost yellow. The handle and blade are a bit too chunky for some PC assembly or repair work, especially with SFF or USFF cases, but if I can use it, I generally do.
Used my snap on since the 90s. I replaced it with the Gearwrench kit. Multitude of extensions ect
@@TheLexiconDevils Well it's back when the brand was good. Last 10 years they suck.
BUT DID IT ASSEMBLE COMPUTERS?!?!!?!!?!!
@@rogerroger10-47 Oh yes. Most recently a server rebuild, maybe 18 months ago.
Finished the repayments on it yet?
I've had a Snap-On SSDMR4 like the 4B you tested, for nearly 30 years. I've used it as my main screwdriver that entire time - on hundreds of computers and household tasks - and it still works and looks like new despite my abuse. It may not have as many bits as the others, but the ones it does have always worked fine for my tasks. I can't recommend it enough.
That was Linuss daily driver for years and the reason it took 3 years to make somthing he likes better for it work😁
30+ years here too, love this driver.
If you need the hex for extra torque, you need an impact driver. The bit won't climb out of the screw's head. They are also needed to remover screws from cast aluminum if it was installed with thread locker or is corroded.
who cares about hex when theres torx which rules supreme
@@hillppari When you don't get to choose? The assembly is old and/or American. Also hex is generically cheap.
@@hillppari Heh, I think he means the hex shaft or a hex part on the driver shaft, for more leverage. And yeah, the Wera was the only one that was camming out, so giving it more torque probably wouldn't make a huge difference either way.
Not always, some products use hex for fine metric screws. M3, etc.
@@hillppari
Bicycles (almost) exclusively use metric hex fasteners.
23:10 One thing to note: I'm pretty sure the shaft is extensible/collapsible on Amartisan. I think the experience would have been much better if you collapsed the shaft, since it would have been much more stable.
When removing screws, sometimes you need extra grunt / elbow grease / torque. That's why I prefer handles with a HOLE at the top.
Sure they're good for hanging on toolbars- but when you stick a second screwdriver through that hole the resulting T shape can be just what you need.
I recently learned why my Snap-on screwdrivers have that little hex shape molded into the shaft: it's to attach a wrench when you really need the extra torque but aren't committed enough to use gelignite.
@@j_taylor Many screwdrivers have either a full hex shank or a small length of hex at the end of the handle so that you can put a small wrench on the end and torque it. But if you do need lots of torque you're better off just using an impact driver. Something like Jeff's 2x3 test may be interesting as an experiment and useful as a test for comparing how they feel under a more extreme (for the tool) use case, but realistically it would take less time and effort to just get my impact and use it for a similar circumstance.
I like that you included Doyle in this test but they are really made for the auto/ industrial type applications, that’s why it’s so beefy. Trying to take rusty screws out you need to be able to really bear down on one. I have one and I don’t like it for electronics or even doing electrical work in the house because of the weight, but when I use it on the car it’s the best thing in the world.
That’s why tool reviews should be done by people who understand tool application
@@RsFrag3d however, as a fellow mechanic, I appreciate that he included it as I do want a ratcheting screwdriver for both automotive and home use and wanted to know how it stacks up before I purchase one. Heft itself doesn't bother me, if I want a lighter screwdriver I'll carry one of my Snap-On screwdrivers, but for something to be able to grab quickly and use.
He also failed to mention one of the biggest draws about the Doyle: it has 3 different (very common) nut drivers built in. There are also lots of other things too.. The ratchet selector he complains about is actually pretty handy.. You can easily switch it with your thumb.
I have several of those doyles (cause they are super cheap) and I use them for all kinds of shit.. Working on cars, general house work, construction, etc. I've dropped them off of a roof (more than once) and ran over them with a 1 ton trailer. Hell, I've used them to start nails or hammer out cotter pins. All 3 that I have still work with no real problems.
Sure, they get dirty (it's a fuckin tool...), and you aren't gonna thread a needle with them or anything. You also don't feel like you are gonna break it when you use it.. Thing is built like a Lincoln. If you are looking for an awesome, multipurpose, dirt cheap screwdriver, don't let this video dissuade you.
As a Dutch person, I really love the KNVB shirt... Outside of The Netherlands, you don't see these that often 🙂
Good video!
Yeah, I'd expect an F1 shirt because of its growing popularity. KNVB is a surprise, indeed.
@@BrazenNL Family comes from NL a couple generations ago, we still wear our orange shirts every World Cup, and are torn the few times the US ever plays NL :)
@@JeffGeerling Ah, that explains the last name. I was wondering about that.
@@JeffGeerling That's really cool that you still do the Dutch football (soccer) tradition with your family.
@@JeffGeerling I recognized the name. My best friend from childhood shares your surname. I wanted to ask about it, but now I have my answer. 😄
Just want to say here, I appreciate you and every other creator who puts in the time and effort (or money), to get proper closed captions on your videos.
It makes watching and following along way easier, and im sure it's even more helpful to people who have impaired hearing.
And it makes make watching at 2x speed (which I do) less like a lesser experience.
Its not something you always notice, but you always miss them when they're gone.
P.s.
TODO: *Transcribe spoken words from **18:30** to **20:13*
lul
Edit: not really complaining but there also seems to be some more script in the "touch wood" section, like you didn't say those things out loud but they are in the closed captions.
Every channel over 100,000 subscribers should have CC. It's not just an important accessibility feature that's been kind of neglected in the internet era, but it's also really useful and not hard to implement especially for those producing scripted content.
Absolutely agree that CC are very nice to have. I appreciate it as well!
About your edit: Starting at the touch wood section till the end of the video, all the CC are about 5minutes ahead of the video itself.
@@nero3700 ah, I realized that a bit late, I was editing while watching the video lol
True. There's definitely issues with the CC in the wood screwing section, it almost looks like captions for later in the video
Thank you, and also sorry about the issue... we had some captioning issues with this one :(
Should be fixed now. Also, I care deeply about accessibility and wish I could do more. Honestly captions are the least we can do, it is not super expensive to take the time and do it. I have someone who helps me with them, but usually we have a day or so to work on them. Today's video was uploaded right before I went to bed las night lol.
For wear and tear, I'd like to have seen them all thrown into a cement mixer along some stones and left there running for 12h so we could get a decent finish wearing and to get some debris on the mechanism to check how well they fare.
I was actually trying to get that to happen-it was going to be the segment that was me scratching the drivers with an HF screwdriver-but my health issues prevented that shoot from happening :(
That would most likely destroy all of the rachet mechanisms. You're not even supposed to use the butt of the driver to hammer something into place because the shock from using it as a bumper can damage the rachet.
@@JeffGeerling Well aware, I have been following your condition. Hope you get better soon! Really like your rPi content!
@@unfortunatelyrob2635 but it would be fun nonetheless!
@@unfortunatelyrob2635 They actually make a screwdriver that is purpose built to be used like that for stuck screws. You hit it with a hammer and the internal mechanism uses the blow to turn the bit.
I think the Gamer's Nexus bit-change is highly variable! Can be anywhere from "grab it" (1s) to "dang it, it must be somewhere below the saw in the toolbox" (5 minutes). Same with the other loose bits of course :D
I think the demonstration in the video here shows average 'bit change' time for the GN set pretty well. The "5 minutes because it's under the saw in the tool box' could just as easily be 30 minutes to run to the store to buy new bits on any of the other drivers if you drop the one you need and it vanishes. I've lost plenty of them rolling off a tail gate and in to grass or gravel, so over all I'd say the set of non-bit drivers is actually better for finding lost or dropped 'bits'.
GN excels in the lost bit on floor test.
@@ttww1590 Fair! :D
Or... Wait who did I borrow this out to??
As far as the bits coming with oil on them, that is a good thing as it prevents rust. Would you rather have oily bits out of the box or rusty bits? Something to think about
Fantastic test, Jeff!!!
I also found that Chinese screwdrivers sometimes are worth the small expense than professional and expensive ones!
I have a box with fixed screwdrivers purchased almost 8 years ago in a food discount market (German Europe-wide chain Lidl) selling garage tools for cheap sometimes. They surprise me every day: last long, don’t wear much also with heavy work, and magnetic tips lasted until today!!!
They have some lidl in the us too! Love it.
Ps, we say it the German way (leedle) not the British way (liddle)
I think the Williams is so close to being a wonderful product but the lack of a bit organizer is a deal breaker. If I'm up on a ladder fiddling with my ceiling fan or a light fixture, the last thing I want to do it pour out all my bits and try to funnel them back in. For the price, the Williams is a great value but for the practicality, I can't say that I agree that it would be a good buy. I'd rather go a step up to the Wera.
Yeah they should consider making a variant of their product. Or maybe just 3D print your own little bit carousel that fits in there? Also screw down caps are a bad idea, it should be a bayonet cap if anything.
I can get the PB Swiss for 57 euros here (just the handle, no bits), so that would honestly be my go-to pick.
Sounds like a Swiss flexing :P
@@helloukw Nope! I'm Dutch lol. PB Swiss is just very expensive outside of Europe. And the LTT screwdriver is $100+ here after shipping and import duties.
Love that you took the time to run through these. I actually wouldn't have minded if you went further with a prying test for each. I think some materials may be "harder" or less susceptible to scratching, but may also be more brittle.
When I heard about this review I wasn’t expecting it to be so comprehensive great video
I tend not to like the big “easy to use” selector because I’ll have the screwdriver in a tight area and something rubbing up against it switches it. I think Linus even reversed his switch from the industry standard that helps prevent that, so when you put it in a tight spot it will switch to the opposite direction of the working turn.
Although I prefer a very high quality 5in1. I can just loosen my grip to get a ratcheting effect. It’s not like a wrench vs a ratcheting wrench which are basically two different tools.
Right. Like it or not, there's a reason for the reversed switch on pretty much anything that ratchets.
if something is interfering with the selector enough for it to switch when you turn the driver, why does it matter which way it goes? even with a reversed selector won't it still switch when you try to reverse and prevent the ratchet from working anyways?
@@TwinStar229 I think the idea is that if you're turning the driver and the selector catches, for most drivers it will continue turning. But with the LTT driver, it will free spin.
@@SixOThree you're absolutely correct, and I think anyone wanting to use it professionally should definitely consider that.
my thinking is that this driver really isnt a good pick for an industrial setting (automotive, electrician, etc.) despite their enthusiasm. In a more "everyday" use case of home/hobby electronics, random home maintenance, those scenarios are much less likely and having a bit extender on hand would still be a better solution than grinding the selector against whatever caught it.
I have personally ordered one, so I guess I will find out the hard way eventually :p
This was a great review, Jeff - nice work!
I always think I should buy a ratcheting screwdriver for PC building then run into some clearance issues - and then realise why I prefer to use regular screwdrivers!
Also, does that KNVB shirt have your name on it?
Indeed it does, and the number I used through my time playing soccer and volleyball!
The best orange shirt in the world!
@@JeffGeerling Do you have Dutch heritage?
@@gartennelke yes
@@JeffGeerling Mooie video makker!
For years Stanley was my go to, then I discovered Wera. The grip is designed to be held diagonally across it. You naturally get a mix of downward force and cross torque with the butt nestling into the palm of your hand.
Wera is Amazon basic tier
I'll stcik with the $20 Craftsman screwdriver I've been using for the last 30 years. For work on laptops I have a "Project Source" 18-piece set that I got for Christmass several years ago.
I have always been a Craftsman tool or Proto tool person over the years. Have just started purchasing Klein Tools recently and love them. The Klein 32303 & 32308 screwdriver set from Home Depot is a great product and a very good value at around $25 US for the set of two. Really like the adjustable screwdriver shaft length & large selection of bits in the handle.
Adjustable shaft length sounds like a useful feature!
Loving the Dutch football shirt!! Great vid, as always!!!
I've had that SnapOn driver for almost fourty years. Still works as it should. The LTT driver is on my wishlist though...
I recently switched from Wera to PB Swiss screwdrivers and I absolutely love the quality of them! As for ratcheting screwdrivers: I actually don't know a single professional who uses them. Be it on construction sites or in IT/computer repair. Even non-ratcheting screwdrivers with bits are somewhat rare and at best used for some oddball security screws.
13:02 LOL, that "lol sorry" and "you too" on those two screwdrivers is gold 🤣👌❤️
Great review, I loved you in 'Con Air' and 'Reservoir Dogs' :D
I've had one of those Snap-on drivers for 22 years. It is literally the best tool purchase I ever made. It didn't cost almost $100 back then - only $50, which is still TOO expensive for a flippin screwdriver. But After carrying it in my back pocket for years, it has earned a special place in my heart. One of the most aggravating things I've noticed about cheaper ratcheting screwdrivers is the selector mechanism. Most of the cheap ones twist in the opposite direction that you're about to screw. That's REALLY annoying after you've gotten used to one that does it "the right way" - meaning you twist the selector clock-wise to screw something clock-wise not ratchet clock-wise. Also, another "feature" I've noticed with cheap ratchets is that the selector gets turned by accident when you have to hunker down and drive something requiring some torque. (I'm looking at you Hart/Walmart brand ratchet driver!) There's another area that I haven't seen any reviewer mention - maybe because they haven't had their driver very long. But after some time, the ratchet mechanism will get dirty and will need cleaned and re-lubed. With the Snap-on (and I assume the Williams, because it looks like a clone), you can easily disassemble the driver and ratchet mechanism, clean it, and reassemble it to make it feel brand new. The last thing I don't see reviewers mention is the quality of the bits - not necessarily strength - you can only supply so much torque with your hand - but the bits ability to grip the fastener head and NOT cam out. Snap-on bits have always performed excellently for me in this regard - to the point of when I lose a bit, I buy a Snap-on replacement. They're honestly that much better at not camming out - specifically the philips head bits - and are worth the extra money not to strip out fastener heads. The Achilles heel of the Snap-on driver is the way it handles bit storage. Compared to more modern designs, Snap-on is severely lacking. The tail cap of the driver interferes with the bit storage when you have several bits in there, and it's just not organized or efficient. If I could change that, I would give the Snap-on a perfect score.
To be fair, $50 in 2000 is $86 in 2022, so not too far off.
This sounds like you're a Snap-On dealer...
@@Clay3613 LOL, I know, right?!? But honestly, they make good tools. They're just too darn expensive. That's why I only have one Snapon tool.
Lets appreciate Orange Shirt Jeff for a moment!
I didn't know Jeff was a Netherlands Football fan 🇳🇱 👍😃
@@DerekGreen123 Or a Verstappen fan
Glad to see the Williams recommended! I put in a bunch of research on ratcheting screwdrivers early this year and ended up with the Williams myself. Would have got a Megapro, but the model I wanted was out of stock everywhere. It's really a superb value, especially when you consider that SnapOn feels comfortable charging almost $100 for their rebranded version.
Fun fact: You can disassemble the Williams, remove a retaining ring on the blade, and put in SnapOn's interchangeable blades for their soft handle model. It holds well enough that it won't fall out and requires a minor amount of force to remove. I'd assume you can fit the retaining ring back on for a more permanent fit if desired. They're about 30 a piece which defeats the value aspect, but allows for some flexibility in blade length and fixes the lack of knurling
The blade? Are you talking about the actual shaft being interchangeable?
@@uli3119 Yes! Dunno why I used blade in the moment but that's what I mean.
I admire the commitment to subtitling when you add "assorted bit change noises" in there.
I have a Snap On that was given to me as a gift over 30 years ago. Been used for everything from pc building to construction. Looks a little dirty, but still works great. I also have a DeWalt, which you didn’t test. It’s major flaw is that it is a fair bit longer, and thus more awkward in many situations.
I worked as a mechanic for 15 years in several shops. Every mechanic I have ever worked with owned that Snap On ratcheting screwdriver and I still own mine. The warranty is second to none and is the best screwdriver hands down I have ever used.
You have the Good Version of the Snap On Ratcheting Screwdriver. I had two, One was the Ratcheting Screwdriver and the other a Ratcheting 1/4" Drive. They look the same except for the tip. Each was 35 Years Old. The 1/4" Drive finally broke after 35 years and Snap On replaced it with a new one. What a piece of garbage. It weighs less than half as much, the ratchet is nowhere near as smooth and after a week it came apart while using it. I have put it back together three times now. The gear assembly keeps popping apart. My 35 year old Ratcheting Screwdriver is still going strong. Unfortunately they do not make rebuild kits for the old ones so you are forced into the new model.
I'd love to see a quality ratchet driver with special bots that are just like the metal part of a regular screw driver but with the hex part at the end, and the hex nut embedded in the ratchet driver's shaft. So you get the combined advantages of both the thin blade of a regular screw driver plus the ratchet mechanism and interchangeability of bits.
I have the Wera Kraftform 816 RA. It's a ratchet handle with the bit holder right above it. Then I put in 3" long bits. Got it for $25 a couple years ago, before the price jump. I do sometimes wish it extended out like some of wera's other models or had a bit holder in the handle like these.
Huh, I've never seen someone grip a screwdriver like that when screwing in a screw... it looks super carpel-tunnel inducing.
me neither, not sure if hes mad or im missing out on an easy way to do things.
Thank you for covering how well you were able to grip the driver handles. No other review I've seen covered that yet it's a very important part of the driver.
Not Jeff's usual content but certainly his usual quality Just fantastic. Thanks!
Another aspect which I think is important is the rotating end, I often get horrible blister in the palm as occasionally I have to put a lot of torque into it and forget I get blisters, and then.. I get a blister which I feel just as I finished :)
I also came to the same conclusion that the WIlliams or the MegaPro Automotive edition are probably best for most people as they cover most of the features of the LTT screwdriver at around half the cost ($40). Personally I ended up getting something around $20 because I know I won't use the screwdriver super often, but it's still something useful to have around for the few situations when I need it.
I really enjoyed the bit change on the Gamers Nexus. I do like a flippy style screwdriver, though I'm frustrated when I think a bit is "small flip to change size" and it's actually "small flip to change Phillips to straight" (or vice versa)...
What a small world. I bought your
ansible book the other day and then randomly searched YT for a review of the screwdriver and you came up. A dude of many talents :)
I'm quite pleased you have both bought the book and commented on the video, and I hope they both are extremely helpful!
I can't believe I actually watched this video till the end... and I liked it. You made me like tools 😂. I'm subscribing to learn more. I'm hooked now.
I purchased a cheap 10$ kit from amazon about 5 years ago, it has ~20-30 steel bits and okayish handle, still in good condition to this date.
@@AnonYmous-qi9rb sorry for my bad english, I'm not from an english speaking nation.
You fixed it! I’m fixing my previous message by deleting it!
Just watched the "Project Farm" review! Nice to have a broad perspective!!!😁👍🏻
PF's videos are always stellar. This video draws some inspiration from his style, but I figured I'd give a little more from the IT/user experience perspective (PF is all about that data).
@@JeffGeerling Yep. PF's was rapid fire data!!! I like the "Red Shirt Jeff" angle!!! Absolute Worth the Watch!!!😁
The LTT seems solid if you're willing to drop $80(plus $7 for me since I need torx bits for my knives) but the Williams is a nice middle option. For $15 I think the Amazon Basics isn't too bad. Sure it has a bit more slop but the materials seemed nice, nice storage for bits (plus they're standard size so I can fit 12 of tho bits I have vs 6 in LTT) and at 6th or 10th the price I think you get 80%-90% of the performance.
LTT is a rip off, for that amount you can get a set that can do more.
You could buy enough of those Doyles to last a lifetime :P
Bought ratchet driver with bits separately in the box for like £10 from LIDL, I have tried to use the ratchet don't really like it, just put it in the middle setting which is disabling the ratchet and makes it ordinary driver.
All I need is just rotating end, one with bearing from ifixit is nice.
BTW. knuring on LTT is not aggressive, it's made correctly, other one next to it has unfinished knurling.
I don't usually watch your channel, but the LTT screwdriver review brought me in. Thanks for showing how it stacks up.
I like that you’re using the Zoom H6 for recording audio! It’s an amazingly versatile device, used to have one. Otherwise, I really appreciate the great and in-depth review. Definitely hoping to get the LTT screwdriver at some point :)
It's extremely handy, and can take almost any kind of input level I throw at it.
i think the wera drivers just feels so good in the hand and the price is decent. also with a solid screw driver like the gamers nexus one its easy to magnetize it with a magnet if you need more strength and sometimes you just cant beat the simplicity and compactness of a regular driver, im glad you included them in the video
Definitely! I love having multiple straight shaft drivers, because they always win when there's a clearance issue. Not as useful for high torque, but if you're pulling that hard on a PC build or in a rack, then you might be doing something wrong :D
I like my wera drivers, but have you ever tried the felo? Handle wise I think they're the best I tried so far. They are a joy to use
@@JeffGeerling I prefer regular screwdrivers too. It's a rare occasion when the screws are all the same and so it's quite normal for me to use 6 screwdrivers at any one time. I think it would be a pain in the ass to keep switching bits. Although i do see the use case for bit screwdrivers for obscure bit sizes and styles, and to have one in the car or similar.
I really like the hex shaft. You can put a wrench on it when you're driving deck screws etc.
I have to say, performance aside I really like the design of the Amazon basics screwdriver. Amazon is evil but I like the idea of having a more accessible line of basic consumer goods that give people who aren’t experts or who don’t have a large budget an option to get what I would consider pretty necessary items.
We know that LTT worked with megapro, so there you said that technology is certainly legitimate. Did Amazon? Did they bother to pay for the patent that they're infringing on? I doubt it.
@@edwardallenthree What are you talking about? It's a ratcheting screwdriver, there are dozens of them on the market. The AmazonBasics is clearly a different design than the MegaPro. MegaPro is not the only manufacturer of ratcheting screwdrivers.
@@porterfielddynamics they have the patent on the bitholder mechanism.
Amazon doesn't really make anything
@@edwardallenthree what makes you think that Amazon didn't pay for licensing - if they really used a patented mechanism?
I guess it's just your hate for Amazon. Correct?
Glad you're feeling better to produce this video 🍻
Very helpful video. A lot of "what it's like to use" criteria that fives you the real world feel. I love PF and watched their video too. Well done.
Would have been interesting to see the mega pro driver in this line-up seeing as the LTT driver licensed as lot of this design.
I never realized why I hated my Klein ratcheting driver so much until now…. It’s identical to the Doyle. Just bought a megapro to replace it because I didn’t feel like paying for the LTT… sorry Linus lol.
The megapro is probably a great option (in terms of value for what you get) as well, unfortunately I couldn't get one in time for this review.
Linus shouldn't price his driver so high. It's not a professional grade tool especially with the low product volume.
If I'm gonna pay that much you best be able to have a warranty like snap on. I left my Snap on a exhaust manifold the handle melted. Next week I hand my snap on guy the melted driver he handed me a new one.
@@thedarkmage7373 Can you explain what you mean by "professional grade tool" in this context? Looking at both this review and the one by Project Farm the LTT seemed to perform just right if not well for it's price point. But maybe I'm not understanding the term you are using.
@@thedarkmage7373 It sounds like you have a good relationship with your Snap-on guy. What would you suggest to a casual home user, someone who doesn't have that relationship? I bought some tools off their web store.
@@thedarkmage7373 he really doesn’t have that much control over pricing. You said it yourself, low volume - economy of scale
I said it on LTT and I'll say it here, for all their development LTT missed the mark on colour scheme. Work spaces are not always brightly lit, don't drop the LTT into a dark engine bay or raised server room.
Most likely they went with black because it was the cheapest option. That matte black will just blend in to dark areas. That’s the problem they designed this for them in their shop that’s well lit and big tables and thought the black looked cool.
@@JechtAruon There is a Black/Orange option for the same price
This is the only screw driver review that I've managed to watch so much of..
The subject is such a stupid problem, but this content is awesome.
14:55 the bit change for the PB Swiss was unrealistic and you gave it an advantage over the real life scenario. In real use scenarios when you want to change the bit you'd not conveniently have the extra bits next to you all lined up, instead you'd have them in the case or tossed loosely off in a tool drawer or toolbag or whatever, so you forgot to account for the time to go walk over to your tool area, open the drawer, pull out the pb swiss case, open it, and figure out which of those bit holders has the bit you need, then you can proceed with the bit swap, then afterwards toss the extra bits back in the drawer or whatever.
Honestly watching the videos about this made me go out and get the Amazon Basics. It does the job, is shockingly cheap, and the bit storage is impressive. Ratchet does require more force than I'd like, but it's absolutely fine for two-handed operation.
This should have been the start of the whole review. In the end it's nothing more than a luxury product. I have been working as a professional for over 20 years. Most screwdrivers are fine, as long as the tips are sharp and hard enough. I consider screwing computer parts as one of the lightest use cases. At home I still use screwdrivers that are over 40 years old that used to be my grandfather's.
The Pb Swiss with internal bit storage is less than half the price than the LTT one over here. The one you're using there, with the case and a lot of bits, is also still cheaper than the LTT one.
I mean... I like LTT, but that's just way too expensive for me. They're literally priced above the premium brand.
I'm not watching a half hour video about screwdrivers! oh sh*t I just did.
I fixed planes in the Air Force, Snap-on tools were the main tools we used, those square handles are not ergonomic at all and I don't foresee them changing it my lifetime. Why? Because a good ol' Crescent wrench will give you that extra torque, and the handle lasts forever. I'm pretty sure the ratchet driver is only square to keep the design language the same across the board, but you shouldn't really be wrenching on them hard unless you want to strip the ratchet gears. But like you said, Snap-on would have a new ratchet rebuild kit the same day if it's on the truck. Why replace the whole tool if the handle is indestructible??
You was lucky. When I was in the AF working B52s we had el cheapo tools in our boxes. When another base closed and sent us all their snap on tools. We thought finally we get some good tools. Yet our tool crib threw them out as unserviceable. So you know someone in the tool crib got some nice tools at home lol
@@JechtAruon I may or may not have some tools that were headed to the recycling bin. We've recycled entire tool boxes before, so I'm not surprised they chucked em. Especially when you need to scrape serials, and re-etch your own tool crib codes on them. 2 years of heavy use plus corrosion mx will make them look like shit, but they were probably fine to use.
Really glad to see you feeling better Jeff!
Seems like Amazon basics is the best screwdriver when it comes to price/perf
I really didn't like it's ratchet, it was a bit tight. The bitholder is nice in how much it stores, but it was a lot less convenient than the Megapro design that can spin freely.
It is a good value (certainly way better than the Doyle or Amartisan) though, and the plastics hold up well.
I wouldn't use it for anything more than light projects though-it was the only ratchet that seemed to slip here and there.
This was my conclusion after the review as well. Highest value of the bunch.
I only do light PC repairs and it's hard to justify $50 so the Basics is probably perfect for my needs.
inspired by the name PB Swiss I made a peanut butter and Swiss cheese sandwich and it was not very good
Haha. Next try Peanut Butter, Mayo, and a slice of Kraft American cheese. Most people hate it, but I love it.
Sounds like something "This Old Tony" would say!!!🤭
So as expected LTT is a waste of money unless you're a fanboy. I appreciate the time taken to test all of this. I look forward to your next video
Have we been watching different videos?
You literally didn't watch the video whatsoever. LTT's screwdriver stacks up well even against the more expensive ones. Stop being a hater for no reason.
@@kadrix732 having watched both this video and the project farm one i can say that it is in the middle of the pack at best. The job determines which tool is best not the manufacturer. A strong magnet looks great for holding screws. Until you drop it on your workbench between you metal work and you end up with a metal toilet brush.
They talk about reaching difficult places, but the real tool brands sell non ratcheting extended shaft length tools for hard to reach places. Those shafts are much thinner. The special size of the bit forces you back to the Linus store. And their bit selection isn't that great and they are a wear item.
Hp for example and many others use a single screw head size. So the advantages of switching bits is minor.
It's a megapro with a few minor thrills and double the price. A pro has a workbench and tool rack. Not this Amateur thing.
@@bzuidgeest First of all, sorry for the late reply, I just got to this.
Look, I agree that the job determines the tools that's best. And I'm not saying that this screwdriver is the best thing in the world. But it's definitely not "shit" like many people say it is.
"The special size of the bit forces you back to the Linus store."
Straight up false. They give you shorter bits, you're not required to use their own bits. Bits don't last forever in any case, they're replaceable for a reason.
"It's a megapro with a few minor thrills and double the price."
You're not buying it for value. You're buying it to mostly support a creator. However, unlike other creators which would shamelessly slap their logo onto absolute shit, Linus went a few steps above those people and designed something half decent.
"A pro has a workbench and tool rack."
Not everything requires a workbench. Not everything requires a million tools either.
"Not this Amateur thing."
So, is the PB Swiss an amateur thing too? Just because you don't like the tool, just because you don't want to use this tool, doesn't mean other people dislike it and don't want to use it. I'm so sick of people having such stupid arguments, using their own views and trying to make them sound like an objective fact.
Some people are talking about this thing like it's a complete piece of shit which is in reality worth $7. Try getting a tool for 7 bucks, but don't complain when it falls apart on you.
@@kadrix732 again you say he designed something. Specifying is not designing. He took an existing model and specified some extras. They might be good choices, but that does not make it designing.
And is the PB swiss and amateur tool? In my opinion yes. It's not as expensive in Europe as in the US. But a nice tool, if you want to screw in a light fixture with quality.
Every tool has its uses, sure. But claiming this specific one is something special, no. The sweeping language use by Linus, like it's going to replace every tool in every job, no. His fans treating this like mana from the gods, no and more no.
If you want to support him as a content creator, it's fine, buy one. But the credit for implementing and thus designing it belongs to megapro staff, not Linus.
He made a little more effort then slapping a sticker on something from Alibaba, but a lot of creators do more.
Want to buy more tools? Buy some wrenches from hand tool rescue. At least he is not claiming he designed them. Though he actually makes them.
And yes you can use normal bits, but then it only takes six not the twelve. Even the Amazon basic takes 12 normal ones. So yes for full functionality you are stuck with Linus. Vendor lock.
Don't forget. You get the exclusive trust me bro warranty with the LTT one. Wera makes some of the best screwdrivers out there in my experience. Been using a couple for 25 years at this point. Still as good as new.
Interesting video thanks for making it.
As for your video at about 6:40 when you spoke about oily bits, I laughed.
Many if not all good quality tools have corrosion protection on the tools.
Sockets, screwdrivers, feeler gauges and the list goes on.
I have seen tools sit on shelves for long periods of time and some do rust without protection on them.
Oiled is fine, but the amount of oil was as much as I normally see on HF tools, where there were drips on a couple bits.
I only mention it because oily is okay, but dripping with oil is annoying (IMO).
I would have liked to see a Megapro (maybe the Automotive?) compared to the LTT since it's based on a Megapro design and even licenses the ratchet patent and iterates on it.
Yeah... in hindsight I wish I would've ordered one earlier :(
>I bought it for exactly 16 dollars and 37 cents.
>Video says 14.99
Americans and their dumb sales taxes, lol.
Eh, I've used Wera manual screwdrivers (extra long blade) to build/repair over 50,000 PCs in my 25+ career. A ratcheting screwdriver is just overpriced and gimmicky. They are too short, too bulky, and the ones with the screw on caps are super annoying because the caps always come undone while using.
I watched the project farm video and yours too, thank you for taking the time to find some different ways of looking at the same material.
Only Jeff could make me watch (in full) -- or care about -- a screwdriver review. Well done! Will have to look out for future reviews...
Maybe it’s a European thing, but I’ve worked in the IT industry for 20 years and never seen anyone use a ratchet driver 🤷♂️
Hi Jeff, completley off topic, but i just wanted to say tank you so much. That you, Tom (Lawrence Tech) and Steve (Gamers Nexus) don't add a stupid amount of "boomyness" to mic or loud background music or other crap that i can watch it very very easy and it does not stress me with ear fatugue or so. thank you. keep doing what you did so far.
Sure thing! I also enjoy listening with only the occasional filler music, and not the streaming-style background music. To me it just ends up being distracting here and there.
Other people have probably pointed this out, but metal has to be shipped oily if theres cardboard involved! The tannins in the cardboard will cause rusting on metal, especially if it has to sit in a warehouse before shipping, or in customs if its international. Not always fun to clean before use, but better that then recieve a rusted bit!
I did LOL at 16:32, Jeff!
I have a lot of screwdrivers. I have and love the GN set when I need something precision and slop is unacceptable/likely to strip a screw or something. I'm really glad I bought them because they're literally made for tight clearance and torqued down GPU screws that are sometimes both really small and really easy to strip with a lesser driver. I don't generally take apart GPUs, but they're really handy when working with delicate electronics.
My iFixit kit should do the same work, and I freakin' love the Mako driver in their Pro Tech toolkit for small work. It's not the most comfortable for PC building, but it does work. Unless the driver's too big. I've got a Wiha driver that takes my Mako bits because it's absolutely tiny compared even to the Mako without being like an eyeglass or PH#00 SSD retention screw driver that came with a Chinese no-name PCIe/m.2 adapter. You know the kind. The Wiha doesn't feel as nice, but … yeah. I've got something between the two made of aluminum that was like a CenturyStink freebie … No idea where I got it, but it's got storage for its 4mm hex bits in the handle. I don't like it, but … it does get used more than I'd like to admit.
I wanted to love the iFixit Mahi driver. I don't, it feels weighty and has a good spinny cap, but its magnet is weak-sauce.
My Klein PH#2 gets a lot of work building machines. I tend to toss a magnet on the blade when I need one rather than magnetizing and demagnetizing the tip constantly. It's not ideal but it's my standard time to build a PC fixed blade driver, mostly because between it and the Mako, I have what I need for PC building. Again, I wish I could say the Mahi serves me well here, but it really doesn't.
My ratcheting driver, the only one I've got, is a big Stanley. It's got as much slop as the worst you have there, and it's honestly too big. I'm really eying that Wera to replace it.
There just doesn't seem to be one driver that does everything, y'know?
I own that specific Wera and I really like it. However I often use solid screwdrivers and a Non-Rachet Draper I have use for 35 years, All the bits are still perfect.
5:37 - LOL! LOL! As an aircraft structures & sheet metal mechanic I have seen many mechanics with these house-sized Snap-On toolboxes! All bought via high-interest financing! They think they are so cool with their giant Snap-On tool boxes!