I was able to change out the radiator without disconnecting the A/C condenser. The entire project was pretty simple, took me about 3 hours to complete it. I ended up removing the front tires so I could gain access to all the plastic clips in the fender wells.
Cheers Gary. I renewed the radiator on my other Freelander 2 weeks ago, the 1.8 K series petrol, and I didn't need to remove the a/c condenser nor the front bumper. Just the alternator and exhaust manifold came out.
Mr. Jascco I could not write earlier was a very busy. Since you had better English then we like that. I am from Serbia, but I live and work in Malta 8 years. I tried to bleed the air from antifreez and changed the tap for antifreez and the system was pressurized. I used your video to see the process. I turned on the aircon in Speed 2, the fan remains off. When the engine is warmed up both fans are started. Engine was ok I think and hope that the engine will now be fine.
Sounds better, let the engine idle for 10 minutes and see if it overheats. That will be the ultimate test. Usually, the twin fans at front should never come on as the Freelander radiator is more than enough to cool the entire engine single handedly when the system pressurises correctly. The Freelander computer system is supposed to switch the twin fans on just before the temp level reaches the red as a safety measure to stop the engine overheating. But, if your cooling system pressurises correctly, the temperature needle will always stay at the middle level and fans will not switch on, no matter if you let the engine idle for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. My question is, when the twin fans turned on, where was the temperature needle? Was it exactly at the half way mark? Or was it higher than half way?
good, that is normal. During normal cooling system operation, the twin fans at front should never turn on (unless of course your Freelander 1.8 original computer system was reprogramme to get the fans to come on earlier, I know there was some software or something marketed on Ebay a few years ago that claimed being capable of this. The 1.8 Freelander radiator is single handedly adequate enough to provide all the cooling capability the engine requires. The fans are only designed as an emergency feature that the computer switches on if the temperature reaches the "unacceptable" level.
My temperature needle also hangs around that same mark forever after this repair, exactly as you described, maybe a millimetre or so below the 50 percent mark. And so long as your Freelander can do that and sustain itself like that no matter how hot the temperature is outside or if the engine idles for 40 minutes or 5 minutes, then it's normal.
Gospodine Jascco nisam mogao ranije pisati bio sa very busy. Ja sam iz Srbije ali zivim i radim na Malti vec 8godina. Probao sam bleed antifreez i promenio zatvarac na rezervoaru za antifreez i sistem je bio pod stabilnim pritiskom
Important!! If you want to follow this method, first discharge the air conditioning refrigerant from the system. If you don't have the training or expertise in this, don't risk serious injury, book a mobile mechanic to come out to you to "evacuate the air conditioning refrigerant from the a/c system", also known as "recycle the air conditioning refrigerant out of the a/c system". Don't mess with charged a/c gas, get it recycled safely, remember work safe, be safe, stay safe.
I followed the level of antifreeze and was the MAXIMUM initially during work fell by 0.5 cm from max, but when I turned off the engine and opened the tap of antifreeze pressure was released and antifreeze climbed 1cm above the max. I do not Know what happened I'll have to check again.
mr jasco i very happy to follow your advice to change cooler fan, but i make something different, in your video you remove your condenser and empty A/C, but i make different only remove bolts between radiator and conderser, then removing radiator with cooling fan from right hand, there is big gab to remove it without lossing A/C
+Eslam Abuzaid Hi Eslam, yes that may work, I followed the procedure from the Land Rover RAVE manual for the KV6 which recommends the A/C to be drained as part of the procedure and the condenser to be removed. I also coincidentally changed the condenser since there was a leak in the A/C refrigerant there.
+Eslam Abuzaid Hi Eslam, the RAVE manual states that the concentration should be 50% for good anti corrosion protection, the coolant must be OAT coolant (the red type). I would never use pure water, I would use demineralised water.
So I'm just trying to get to the radiator cap on my 02 landrover freelander to replace it. Can I just take off the correct side panel, I'm not sure which side it's on, and get to it that way? Yours is a tad different and your actually removing it so I was hoping there wasn't much to take off just to get to it? Not many videos at all on this model :( at least not showing me where it is.
Hi sorry for my late response, are you in the USA? Australia here. The radiators on the Kv6 Freelanders don’t have radiator caps they just have an anti freeze expansion tank. Is the NAS V6 Freelander (North American Specification) different and includes a radiator cap and filler hole on the radiator itself? (Correct me if I’m wrong). That’s the same feedback I received concerned the KV6 Freelander. Sadly on 15th July 2020, my red KV6 Freelander was written off in an accident “. It wasn’t my fault, I was driving straight and a Hyundai SUV failed to give me way and crossed my path to turn right in front of me. I’m very thankful that I and the Hyundai driver walked out of our cars when it happened but the KV6 has sadly been declared a total loss by the insurers.
Gospodine Jasko imam freelandera 1.8 benzin i imam problem sa pregrevanjem motora. Kad pokrenem motor u bocici se vidi cirkulacija,dali je termostat ostao zaglavljen ili ga uopste nema to nisam proverio.Kada motor pocne da se greje pokazatelj temperature se ne pomera dok motor ne postane stvarno vreo,onda se popne do malo ispod polovine i tu voda pocne da vrije.Fenovi se ne ukljucuju a hladnjak mi deluje kao da nije toliko vreo sa obzirom da voda kuva.Ulje nema vodu a voda ulje pa mi nije jasno sta se to zapravo desava i jos kako sam video vas snimak,uopste mi se ne skida ni hladnjak niti nista.Jednostavno sam izgubio volju da bilo sta radim sa autom.Imate li neku ideju sta i kako da cinim.Zatvarac tanka za vodu mi deluje kao da ne dihtuje dobro,mozda je to problem?
+Jasco Kovacevic actually I am new in freelander, i trying to learn step by step from professional peoples like you, last thing i made it change my radiator, change coolant and repair my both cooling fan
+Eslam Abuzaid Hi Eslam, thanks for calling me a professional but I consider myself a DIYer, I'm not a professional or mechanic for the record - but you can call me an advanced DIYer on some things if you like to. I myself was shown many of the things I can now do by one of my friends who is a full time mobile mechanic. You must have had some problems with the cooling system for you to do all those things - change coolant, repair fans & change radiator.. were you losing coolant? I am humbled to have been called a professional.. thank you!
+Eslam Abuzaid Owning both a KV6 and 1.8, bleeding air out of the cooling system for the 1.8 was a piece of cake as opposed to the KV6... Unless you have other issues such as a coolant leak somewhere whether internal or external, your KV6 may still overheat if you haven't bled the coolant correctly following re-filling.
+Jasco Kovacevic really i meen what i say, actually i bought this freelander last January, but buyer cheating me, (that is not his fault) i think freelander like same any cars, but i founded little complicated at this time start to read and search about anything belong to this car, so my second big problems it was oil in cooling tank, becouse before engine cooler damage inside and old buyer not cleaning radiator, day by day all oil collect in return hose and make explode same time i repair my fan becouse one fan only working
Gary, when I get home, will see what the RAVE says and get back to you on this one. Admittedly, my first thought was that "yes you can", by removing the twin cooling fan assembly, but just to be sure, let me check with RAVE then get back to you tomorrow. Cheers, Jasko (Jase).
Gary, sorry for not replying sooner, the the KV6 model with air conditioning, the RAVE manual states that the condenser must be removed when removing the radiator. Cheers, Jasco.
Jasco Kovacevic - thanks...I will be changing out my sons radiator on his 2005 Freelander over the Christmas Holiday....the little nipple broke off & as far as I can tell there is no real good fix except a change out. Am hoping I can get the radiator out without unhooking the A/C lines from the condsensor ....I found a new radiator for $150.00. Dealer wants $1,300.00 to do the change....cheapest I could find it else where was $ 850.00
Good one Gary, Ebay and overseas is the best bet. Hey it might take 2 weeks to get to your place via snail mail postage, but look at all the $$$ that you'll save.
Hi Jasco,I hope this msg finds you well. Firstly thank for the video and previous feedback. May I ask you another question? I am wondering if it's possible to replace the motor of radiator fan without having any coolant drain/refill and refrigerant of a/c leak? Could you please kindly suggest me the feasibility of my thought? My freelander is 2.5v6 and it starts to have squeeze sound from the raditor fan, but I really would like to avoid touching a/c and the cooling system fuilds. Thanks a lot
hi Brian, I know what you mean concerning preferences to avoid disturbance of cooling system - the KV6 can be a real pain to bleed and if not bled properly, minute coolant loss can occur every time the car is driven. If you want to remove only the fan controller (where the power pack wiring loom plugs in to, according to RAVE, this fan controller can be removed after taking out a single bolt). But if it's the fan motor your after, it's 3 bolts on each fan and the fan motor should come out and detach itself from the fan cowling. I have never removed solely the fan motor. RAVE unfortunately mentions that the radiator has to come out as a step prior to removing the fan motor. In terms of feasibility of the thought of solely removing the fan motor, I would suggest you could pioneer and see whether there exists adequate room for removal of same once the 3 bolts are removed for each fan motor. People have commented on some of my videos of steps they have taken in bypassing steps recommended by the manuals. Let me know how you go, is there adequate room to remove the fan motor by simply undoing the 3 bolts at each?
Hi Jasco, to feedback the result in short, the answer is Yes to replacing only motor of radiator fan w/o deattaching the raditor or leaking any coolant or refreigirant. I didn't have proper tool and room to DIY this. I managed to source an experienced mechanic who was willing to give it a shot. the steps are as below: 1. remove the wheel arch liner screw and other screws to remove the front bumper 2. remove the front aluminum bar 3. remove the air deflecting cow on both sides, also loosen the two special bolts on the top panel (where the hood lock resides) - they are used to secure the radiator in place. 4. the two bolts in 3. should be taken out completes and place aside. Also protect the PAS pipe(?) not to deform too much. 5. Then loose the 'J' shape bracket used to hold the top coolat Hose, so that we can make space to access to the inner side of the fan/assem without stretching the hose(s) too much. We didn't remove the acoustic cover. 6. with step 5, try to lose all 4 screws on the corners of fan assembly to the raiator, then also take out the 3 screws which are used to secure thefan motor to the assembly. 7. By now, the fan motor is loosened and we need to find a room to take it out. this is by (with assistence) slightly jiggle forwards the radiators top end - the bottom end can be moved a bit with care; also first we needed to take care of the thin overflow pipe from reservoir to the tri-joint to the top Hose to make sure it's not over-stretched to be broken(make it out of the fixing bracket of widscreen filler tank so that the thin pipe can slightly move about). 8. after creating enough room on the top: top body panel->room->top end of radiator, put your arm in (the vehicle has fully cooled down) to take out the fan with motor - be careful not to bumping into the radiator fin structrue - in my case it's the motor near bottom that needs to be replaced. 9. then we put the new fan and new motor in, secure the fan motor screws (x3), move back the radiator top/bottom end to the original space, secure the radiator fan assembly screws(x4) secure the top two bolts to ensure radiator is in right place. then start the car to engage the A/C to trial test the fan Ok. 10. put everything back. Job done (total 3 hours). It's not easy (well.. for me) but it save a lot money for me to keep the hippo. I hope the the above makes sense to you as I am novice to the terminology of these car parts and may have used incorrect wording... PS: BTW, for anyone who is willing to give it a try by yourself. while removing the front bumper off your Hippo: some idiot like mine screw the car identification plate INTO the bar behind the bumper, so you want to check this before exerting too much of your energy trying to deattach the bumper - as this could could damage to your bumper...
Good to hear Brian. You'll want to keep the hippo even more now when you know it's fairly DIY friendly. The "Free" in the "Lander" is what promotes this! Nice work, glad it worked out well.
Hi Jasco, So the twin fan is secured to a radiator which has coolant hoses connected to it. Could you please let me know what's the black block with condensor at side and you removed first? Thank you.
Brian Yang Hi Brian, at 6:01, the black block at either side of the condenser is a plastic spacer that sits there to cover the holes or gap that would otherwise exist from the front of the condenser to the rear. They serve as a massive spacer, a plastic block.
I was able to change out the radiator without disconnecting the A/C condenser. The entire project was pretty simple, took me about 3 hours to complete it. I ended up removing the front tires so I could gain access to all the plastic clips in the fender wells.
Cheers Gary. I renewed the radiator on my other Freelander 2 weeks ago, the 1.8 K series petrol, and I didn't need to remove the a/c condenser nor the front bumper. Just the alternator and exhaust manifold came out.
Hvala puno gospodine Jasco pisacu vam opet.
Your welcome my countryman friend.
Mr. Jascco I could not write earlier was a very busy. Since you had better English then we like that. I am from Serbia, but I live and work in Malta 8 years. I tried to bleed the air from antifreez and changed the tap for antifreez and the system was pressurized. I used your video to see the process. I turned on the aircon in Speed 2, the fan remains off. When the engine is warmed up both fans are started. Engine was ok I think and hope that the engine will now be fine.
Sounds better, let the engine idle for 10 minutes and see if it overheats. That will be the ultimate test. Usually, the twin fans at front should never come on as the Freelander radiator is more than enough to cool the entire engine single handedly when the system pressurises correctly. The Freelander computer system is supposed to switch the twin fans on just before the temp level reaches the red as a safety measure to stop the engine overheating. But, if your cooling system pressurises correctly, the temperature needle will always stay at the middle level and fans will not switch on, no matter if you let the engine idle for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. My question is, when the twin fans turned on, where was the temperature needle? Was it exactly at the half way mark? Or was it higher than half way?
Mr. Jasco temperature needle never pass more than half, maybe even a little less than half do not know if this is normal.
good, that is normal. During normal cooling system operation, the twin fans at front should never turn on (unless of course your Freelander 1.8 original computer system was reprogramme to get the fans to come on earlier, I know there was some software or something marketed on Ebay a few years ago that claimed being capable of this. The 1.8 Freelander radiator is single handedly adequate enough to provide all the cooling capability the engine requires. The fans are only designed as an emergency feature that the computer switches on if the temperature reaches the "unacceptable" level.
My temperature needle also hangs around that same mark forever after this repair, exactly as you described, maybe a millimetre or so below the 50 percent mark. And so long as your Freelander can do that and sustain itself like that no matter how hot the temperature is outside or if the engine idles for 40 minutes or 5 minutes, then it's normal.
Hvala puno gospodine Jasko
Gospodine Jascco nisam mogao ranije pisati bio sa very busy. Ja sam iz Srbije ali zivim i radim na Malti vec 8godina. Probao sam bleed antifreez i promenio zatvarac na rezervoaru za antifreez i sistem je bio pod stabilnim pritiskom
Important!! If you want to follow this method, first discharge the air conditioning refrigerant from the system. If you don't have the training or expertise in this, don't risk serious injury, book a mobile mechanic to come out to you to "evacuate the air conditioning refrigerant from the a/c system", also known as "recycle the air conditioning refrigerant out of the a/c system". Don't mess with charged a/c gas, get it recycled safely, remember work safe, be safe, stay safe.
I followed the level of antifreeze and was the MAXIMUM initially during work fell by 0.5 cm from max, but when I turned off the engine and opened the tap of antifreeze pressure was released and antifreeze climbed 1cm above the max. I do not Know what happened I'll have to check again.
mr jasco
i very happy to follow your advice to change cooler fan, but i make something different,
in your video you remove your condenser and empty A/C, but i make different only remove bolts between radiator and conderser, then removing radiator with cooling fan from right hand, there is big gab to remove it without lossing A/C
+Eslam Abuzaid Hi Eslam, yes that may work, I followed the procedure from the Land Rover RAVE manual for the KV6 which recommends the A/C to be drained as part of the procedure and the condenser to be removed. I also coincidentally changed the condenser since there was a leak in the A/C refrigerant there.
+Jasco Kovacevic sorry i don't know you have problem in condenser
+Eslam Abuzaid all good. By the way, are you using the red OAT coolant as recommended by Land Rover, or the green?
+Jasco Kovacevic actually i prepared coolant at my home 40% coolant with 60% pure water
+Eslam Abuzaid Hi Eslam, the RAVE manual states that the concentration should be 50% for good anti corrosion protection, the coolant must be OAT coolant (the red type). I would never use pure water, I would use demineralised water.
So I'm just trying to get to the radiator cap on my 02 landrover freelander to replace it. Can I just take off the correct side panel, I'm not sure which side it's on, and get to it that way? Yours is a tad different and your actually removing it so I was hoping there wasn't much to take off just to get to it? Not many videos at all on this model :( at least not showing me where it is.
Hi sorry for my late response, are you in the USA? Australia here. The radiators on the Kv6 Freelanders don’t have radiator caps they just have an anti freeze expansion tank. Is the NAS V6 Freelander (North American Specification) different and includes a radiator cap and filler hole on the radiator itself? (Correct me if I’m wrong). That’s the same feedback I received concerned the KV6 Freelander. Sadly on 15th July 2020, my red KV6 Freelander was written off in an accident “. It wasn’t my fault, I was driving straight and a Hyundai SUV failed to give me way and crossed my path to turn right in front of me. I’m very thankful that I and the Hyundai driver walked out of our cars when it happened but the KV6 has sadly been declared a total loss by the insurers.
Gospodine Jasko imam freelandera 1.8 benzin i imam problem sa pregrevanjem motora. Kad pokrenem motor u bocici se vidi cirkulacija,dali je termostat ostao zaglavljen ili ga uopste nema to nisam proverio.Kada motor pocne da se greje pokazatelj temperature se ne pomera dok motor ne postane stvarno vreo,onda se popne do malo ispod polovine i tu voda pocne da vrije.Fenovi se ne ukljucuju a hladnjak mi deluje kao da nije toliko vreo sa obzirom da voda kuva.Ulje nema vodu a voda ulje pa mi nije jasno sta se to zapravo desava i jos kako sam video vas snimak,uopste mi se ne skida ni hladnjak niti nista.Jednostavno sam izgubio volju da bilo sta radim sa autom.Imate li neku ideju sta i kako da cinim.Zatvarac tanka za vodu mi deluje kao da ne dihtuje dobro,mozda je to problem?
we need more videos about KV6
+Eslam Abuzaid Thanks Eslam, perhaps you could video your next project for the Kv6. Do you have any issues with yours at the moment? Jasco.
+Jasco Kovacevic actually I am new in freelander, i trying to learn step by step from professional peoples like you, last thing i made it change my radiator, change coolant and repair my both cooling fan
+Eslam Abuzaid Hi Eslam, thanks for calling me a professional but I consider myself a DIYer, I'm not a professional or mechanic for the record - but you can call me an advanced DIYer on some things if you like to. I myself was shown many of the things I can now do by one of my friends who is a full time mobile mechanic. You must have had some problems with the cooling system for you to do all those things - change coolant, repair fans & change radiator.. were you losing coolant? I am humbled to have been called a professional.. thank you!
+Eslam Abuzaid Owning both a KV6 and 1.8, bleeding air out of the cooling system for the 1.8 was a piece of cake as opposed to the KV6... Unless you have other issues such as a coolant leak somewhere whether internal or external, your KV6 may still overheat if you haven't bled the coolant correctly following re-filling.
+Jasco Kovacevic really i meen what i say, actually i bought this freelander last January, but buyer cheating me, (that is not his fault) i think freelander like same any cars, but i founded little complicated
at this time start to read and search about anything belong to this car, so my second big problems it was oil in cooling tank, becouse before engine cooler damage inside and old buyer not cleaning radiator, day by day all oil collect in return hose and make explode same time i repair my fan becouse one fan only working
Can you remove the radiator without removing the condenser????
Gary, when I get home, will see what the RAVE says and get back to you on this one. Admittedly, my first thought was that "yes you can", by removing the twin cooling fan assembly, but just to be sure, let me check with RAVE then get back to you tomorrow. Cheers, Jasko (Jase).
Gary, sorry for not replying sooner, the the KV6 model with air conditioning, the RAVE manual states that the condenser must be removed when removing the radiator. Cheers, Jasco.
Jasco Kovacevic - thanks...I will be changing out my sons radiator on his 2005 Freelander over the Christmas Holiday....the little nipple broke off & as far as I can tell there is no real good fix except a change out. Am hoping I can get the radiator out without unhooking the A/C lines from the condsensor ....I found a new radiator for $150.00. Dealer wants $1,300.00 to do the change....cheapest I could find it else where was $ 850.00
Good one Gary, Ebay and overseas is the best bet. Hey it might take 2 weeks to get to your place via snail mail postage, but look at all the $$$ that you'll save.
What about a 1.8td
Hi Jasco,I hope this msg finds you well. Firstly thank for the video and previous feedback. May I ask you another question? I am wondering if it's possible to replace the motor of radiator fan without having any coolant drain/refill and refrigerant of a/c leak? Could you please kindly suggest me the feasibility of my thought? My freelander is 2.5v6 and it starts to have squeeze sound from the raditor fan, but I really would like to avoid touching a/c and the cooling system fuilds. Thanks a lot
hi Brian, I know what you mean concerning preferences to avoid disturbance of cooling system - the KV6 can be a real pain to bleed and if not bled properly, minute coolant loss can occur every time the car is driven. If you want to remove only the fan controller (where the power pack wiring loom plugs in to, according to RAVE, this fan controller can be removed after taking out a single bolt). But if it's the fan motor your after, it's 3 bolts on each fan and the fan motor should come out and detach itself from the fan cowling. I have never removed solely the fan motor. RAVE unfortunately mentions that the radiator has to come out as a step prior to removing the fan motor. In terms of feasibility of the thought of solely removing the fan motor, I would suggest you could pioneer and see whether there exists adequate room for removal of same once the 3 bolts are removed for each fan motor. People have commented on some of my videos of steps they have taken in bypassing steps recommended by the manuals. Let me know how you go, is there adequate room to remove the fan motor by simply undoing the 3 bolts at each?
Hi Jasco, to feedback the result in short, the answer is Yes to replacing only motor of radiator fan w/o deattaching the raditor or leaking any coolant or refreigirant. I didn't have proper tool and room to DIY this. I managed to source an experienced mechanic who was willing to give it a shot. the steps are as below:
1. remove the wheel arch liner screw and other screws to remove the front bumper
2. remove the front aluminum bar
3. remove the air deflecting cow on both sides, also loosen the two special bolts on the top panel (where the hood lock resides) - they are used to secure the radiator in place.
4. the two bolts in 3. should be taken out completes and place aside. Also protect the PAS pipe(?) not to deform too much.
5. Then loose the 'J' shape bracket used to hold the top coolat Hose, so that we can make space to access to the inner side of the fan/assem without stretching the hose(s) too much. We didn't remove the acoustic cover.
6. with step 5, try to lose all 4 screws on the corners of fan assembly to the raiator, then also take out the 3 screws which are used to secure thefan motor to the assembly.
7. By now, the fan motor is loosened and we need to find a room to take it out. this is by (with assistence) slightly jiggle forwards the radiators top end - the bottom end can be moved a bit with care; also first we needed to take care of the thin overflow pipe from reservoir to the tri-joint to the top Hose to make sure it's not over-stretched to be broken(make it out of the fixing bracket of widscreen filler tank so that the thin pipe can slightly move about).
8. after creating enough room on the top: top body panel->room->top end of radiator, put your arm in (the vehicle has fully cooled down) to take out the fan with motor - be careful not to bumping into the radiator fin structrue - in my case it's the motor near bottom that needs to be replaced.
9. then we put the new fan and new motor in, secure the fan motor screws (x3), move back the radiator top/bottom end to the original space, secure the radiator fan assembly screws(x4) secure the top two bolts to ensure radiator is in right place. then start the car to engage the A/C to trial test the fan Ok.
10. put everything back. Job done (total 3 hours). It's not easy (well.. for me) but it save a lot money for me to keep the hippo. I hope the the above makes sense to you as I am novice to the terminology of these car parts and may have used incorrect wording...
PS: BTW, for anyone who is willing to give it a try by yourself. while removing the front bumper off your Hippo: some idiot like mine screw the car identification plate INTO the bar behind the bumper, so you want to check this before exerting too much of your energy trying to deattach the bumper - as this could could damage to your bumper...
Good to hear Brian. You'll want to keep the hippo even more now when you know it's fairly DIY friendly. The "Free" in the "Lander" is what promotes this! Nice work, glad it worked out well.
Hi Jasco,
So the twin fan is secured to a radiator which has coolant hoses connected to it. Could you please let me know what's the black block with condensor at side and you removed first? Thank you.
Brian Yang Hi Brian, at 6:01, the black block at either side of the condenser is a plastic spacer that sits there to cover the holes or gap that would otherwise exist from the front of the condenser to the rear. They serve as a massive spacer, a plastic block.
Thank you :)
Kind regards,