I did the same thing when i first got my xmaxx.. modded the crap out of it with tons of upgrades.. the problem is metal fatigue.. it works and it works.. and then it dont.. beautiful rig.. i have the same green color one.. but i also went back to alot of plastic for big air sends.. For little jumps and ripping around.. the aluminum upgrades is where its at. Looks badass but will break alot easier then one would think.. It would be badass to see a company come out with some carbon fiber links and arms for xmaxx.. i might be into that..
Agreed. All that aluminum makes the truck much too heavy. It sure looks nice but it’s not practical. With an xmaxx you have to choose your upgrades very wisely and really do a ton of research:. It’s real easy to over do it on an xmaxx cuz it’s already so big and heavy and there’s so many upgrades out there but easily 70% of them are not needed.. the other 30% on the other hand are extremely good and will make a huge difference but you need to know which ones to choose and why.. not just guy aimlessly thinking that each alloy part will make it better.. most alloy parts will just send the breaking point to another area which normally is an even harder area to get to and fix and will often break more than the original areas of the upgrade. My upgrade list: Alloy C-hubs (not knuckles) -Alloy Front and rear diff covers (not housings) -Keeps pinion and spur in mesh -Shim the pinion in front and rear diff with a .2mm shim or close to it -Alloy Top Acherman brace/support -GPM hub extensions.. the smaller ones they make not the super wide ones -Heavy duty diff out drive cups that are on Amazon (these are the best) GPM ones are trash. You’ll never break another cup as they are fully captured and not open slots -Alloy Lower chassis brace (I got mine from alli express for $25 it’s identical to the one M2C sells for 1/4 the money and still allows some flex which you want unlike the GPM brace shown in this video -Alloy center diff upper cap/cover (helps retain a good mesh to your center diff) -Rpm rear hubs + XRT front hubs (XRT front hubs are better than the RPM ones) -Spectum 1250kv and max 6 esc.. (amazing power to weight ratio and for the amount of mods it’s a perfect fit) -Mod 1.5 gearing -Aluminum motor mount (don’t use plastic) -Aftermarket center driveshaft (m2c or GPM) -Aftermarket servo and set voltage to 7.2v with max 6 esc (stock traxxass RX will be fine at this voltage -RPM, GPM, or M2c hinge pins.. M2C are the best. This is just about all the upgrades you gotta do to make your xmaxx powerful and bulletproof. I’m sure I missed a few small things but for the most part this is all you need.
@@BiffsEquipment i have basically the same xmaxx as u do.. lol.. except im running a 5690 1100kv motor..also im using the vitivon servo arm and link system.. it has a clamping system so u dont strip the server horn
@@AVERAGEJOERC very cool man! Vitivan makes some amazing parts.. just extremely expensive sometimes. I also have an aluminum server arm and aloy servo horn.. I didn’t add that to the list so thanks. Another great upgrade is the M2C bellcrank which I still need to buy myself.. been waiting for the stock one to break but hasn’t yet. Oh and I also added the heavy duty traxxass servo saver spring.. it still wasn’t strong enough for my liking so I took it apart and added a few shims to make it even tighter.. now it’s absolutely perfect but still moves when it needs to. Make sure to do the servo saver mod by drilling through the servo saver and using a longer bolt with a lock nut on the back side.. this keeps the servo saver from loosening up over time. Good call on the 1100kv motor! It was a real tough choice for me beteeen the spectrum 1100 or the 1250.. I went with 1250 tho since I already had the proper gearing I’d need and so far I’m very happy with it
What’s your gearing with the 1100kv? I’m running 35/14 right now and it’s PLENTY fast.. but my motor and esc temps hardly break 100F on an 80F degree day which is insane.. so I’ll prolly go up to a 15 tooth pinion at some point. (I’m also running thick 20,000rpm turbo fans which I’m sure helps a lot with cooling and the stock armma motor heatsinc is a beast cuz it nearly wraps around the entire motor so I’m sure that’s also helping a lot haha
Very Nice Brace Chris!!! Awesome Build buddy!!! 🏆🏆🏆🏁🏁🏁
Thank you 🙏🏼 I really appreciate the good words🤙🏼
6:40 I definitely recommend doing all by hand first and then drill lol (to others). I stripped the holes doing this method on 1 screw hole.
Yeah, I should have been a better example. Sometimes i need to slow down I 🤔 Thanks for tuning in🤙🏼🙏🏼
Nice bit of kit that bar ! Need a few of them !! Good video man 🔥
Thank you!!🙏🏼 I will have them
in stock when you’re ready. pnwrc10 is the coupon code also for one time 10% off
I did the same thing when i first got my xmaxx.. modded the crap out of it with tons of upgrades.. the problem is metal fatigue.. it works and it works.. and then it dont.. beautiful rig.. i have the same green color one.. but i also went back to alot of plastic for big air sends.. For little jumps and ripping around.. the aluminum upgrades is where its at. Looks badass but will break alot easier then one would think..
It would be badass to see a company come out with some carbon fiber links and arms for xmaxx.. i might be into that..
Agreed. All that aluminum makes the truck much too heavy. It sure looks nice but it’s not practical. With an xmaxx you have to choose your upgrades very wisely and really do a ton of research:. It’s real easy to over do it on an xmaxx cuz it’s already so big and heavy and there’s so many upgrades out there but easily 70% of them are not needed.. the other 30% on the other hand are extremely good and will make a huge difference but you need to know which ones to choose and why.. not just guy aimlessly thinking that each alloy part will make it better.. most alloy parts will just send the breaking point to another area which normally is an even harder area to get to and fix and will often break more than the original areas of the upgrade.
My upgrade list:
Alloy C-hubs (not knuckles)
-Alloy Front and rear diff covers (not housings) -Keeps pinion and spur in mesh
-Shim the pinion in front and rear diff with a .2mm shim or close to it
-Alloy Top Acherman brace/support
-GPM hub extensions.. the smaller ones they make not the super wide ones
-Heavy duty diff out drive cups that are on Amazon (these are the best) GPM ones are trash. You’ll never break another cup as they are fully captured and not open slots
-Alloy Lower chassis brace (I got mine from alli express for $25 it’s identical to the one M2C sells for 1/4 the money and still allows some flex which you want unlike the GPM brace shown in this video
-Alloy center diff upper cap/cover (helps retain a good mesh to your center diff)
-Rpm rear hubs + XRT front hubs (XRT front hubs are better than the RPM ones)
-Spectum 1250kv and max 6 esc.. (amazing power to weight ratio and for the amount of mods it’s a perfect fit)
-Mod 1.5 gearing
-Aluminum motor mount (don’t use plastic)
-Aftermarket center driveshaft (m2c or GPM)
-Aftermarket servo and set voltage to 7.2v with max 6 esc (stock traxxass RX will be fine at this voltage
-RPM, GPM, or M2c hinge pins.. M2C are the best.
This is just about all the upgrades you gotta do to make your xmaxx powerful and bulletproof. I’m sure I missed a few small things but for the most part this is all you need.
@@BiffsEquipment i have basically the same xmaxx as u do.. lol.. except im running a 5690 1100kv motor..also im using the vitivon servo arm and link system.. it has a clamping system so u dont strip the server horn
@@AVERAGEJOERC very cool man! Vitivan makes some amazing parts.. just extremely expensive sometimes. I also have an aluminum server arm and aloy servo horn.. I didn’t add that to the list so thanks. Another great upgrade is the M2C bellcrank which I still need to buy myself.. been waiting for the stock one to break but hasn’t yet.
Oh and I also added the heavy duty traxxass servo saver spring.. it still wasn’t strong enough for my liking so I took it apart and added a few shims to make it even tighter.. now it’s absolutely perfect but still moves when it needs to. Make sure to do the servo saver mod by drilling through the servo saver and using a longer bolt with a lock nut on the back side.. this keeps the servo saver from loosening up over time.
Good call on the 1100kv motor! It was a real tough choice for me beteeen the spectrum 1100 or the 1250.. I went with 1250 tho since I already had the proper gearing I’d need and so far I’m very happy with it
What’s your gearing with the 1100kv? I’m running 35/14 right now and it’s PLENTY fast.. but my motor and esc temps hardly break 100F on an 80F degree day which is insane.. so I’ll prolly go up to a 15 tooth pinion at some point. (I’m also running thick 20,000rpm turbo fans which I’m sure helps a lot with cooling and the stock armma motor heatsinc is a beast cuz it nearly wraps around the entire motor so I’m sure that’s also helping a lot haha
@@BiffsEquipment im running 15/35 but and its perfect temps for me
Very likely grabbing either an XRT or Xmaxx soon - love to see the stuff you're making!
thank you so much!!!!😊
I want a green one for the XRT when it comes out!!! support your local business
So awesome 🤙🏼🤙🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 That part is coming soon also!! Stay tuned for more😊
Build list? I’m getting an Xmax and wanna do the same thing ur doing
Tough first landing
yeah… this big old 39lber is a bit heavy to be launching😂 I just can’t help it though. We will be back soon💪🏼🚀🚀🤙🏼
ughhh car looks beautiful, shame that small jump messed it all up. Also that bash bar is super scratched...