1993 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 Head Gasket Part 1 : SILICONE RAGE!
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- In this installment, we see one of my biggest repair pet peevs get ticked...and ticked...and punched...and kicked... and beaten to death.
I don't know how many times I've heard "Just use some silicone on it" when doing a parts swap or repairing a leak somewhere on an engine. IT'S NOT A F$&^#@G CURE ALL!
If you don't want to take the time and spend the money to do a repair right, don't bother. If it does work at first, it's either going to fail on you again later or be a headache for the next guy.
Don't feel bad about asking. It's the best way to learn.
The throttle body is the part where air enters the intake manifold. The reason it's called the throttle body is because the throttle cable moves throttle blades commonly called butterflies in the airflow path to control how much air is allowed into the engine to mix with the fuel depending on engine load.
That's how you can have throttle body injection. T.B.I. is basically a carburetor where instead of bowls of gas that have small straw like tubes that use vacuum to suck fuel into the airflow and mix it, the injectors spray a mist of fuel into the airflow directly at the butterflies right where the air enters the intake.
Multi-port injection just adds more injectors that spray less fuel directly at the back of the intake valve when it's open and air is flowing past. You still have a throttle body, but it's only function is to control airflow into the intake in relation to engine load and throttle position.
Direct injection has a special injector that sprays fuel directly into the cylinder instead of the intake manifold or the throttle body.
As far as the head gaskets on your Dakota, I'd make sure that they are the problem first. My problem with over-pressure in mine was because both the radiator and heater core were plugged up with stop leak and some other crap that restricted flow. Once I replaced my radiator and cleaned out my heater core, the pressure problems stopped.
I still have bad rings so I don't have much compression on a few cylinders, but the truck still pulls like a mother.
Last thing, you should use new head bolts when doing a head gasket as they are designed to stretch. Since you did a head gasket already you should know that, but I figured I'd mention that for people who might be thinking about doing it so they know to order the bolts at the same time as the gasket instead of sitting and waiting for them afterwards.
Award for the longest intro ever!
Great video!!!!!
My god them valves are burnt up head gasket ain't gonna fix that 😂😂
They weren't burnt. They just had a heavy deposit layer. The truck ran fine for a long while after that. Still would, if I put the accessories I scavenged off the engine for other vehicles back on it. It's the only vehicle I've ever owned that I would stake my very life on starting every time I turned the key.
@@hellcat1988 I see holes 😂😂
@@chestonanderson Then you need your eyes checked.
Yeah I left the throttle body on there. Make sure that you clear all the vacuum lines and the fuel rail before you try that though.
If you end up breaking off the oil pressure sending unit like I did, you can go down to your local hardware store and see about borrowing their assortment of electric water heater element sockets to change it, as they are large enough, strong enough, and deep enough to do the job.
Lastly, if you intend to use the cork gaskets for the ends of the intake manifold like I did instead of going with the thick bead of silicone along the entire thing like most half job part changers do, make sure you put a good dollop of silicone at each end of the gaskets where they meet the heads to ensure there are no leaks from those points.
hellcat1988 ok thank you for info, also did you put in new head bolts if so where did you buy yours?
I didn't use new head bolts because of a VERY tight budget but you should as they stretch when you torque them down. I get my stuff by comparing prices/vs/shipping time with O'reilly's, napa, and Rockauto.com. If I can wait, I usually order whatever part I think is best value for money from rockauto. If I can't wait, I buy whichever is cheaper between the two brick and mortar stores. It's VERY rare that either store will be cheaper than online, but it HAS happened in the past.
Ok thanks also when I take the vale cover off do I have to disassemble all the valves lifter push rods ext... To get access to head gasket
No. You can just take the head bolts out and lift the head off, leaving the push rods in place. If I remember correctly, what I did was get the head loose, turn the rocker arms off the valve stems and push rods, then pull the push rods out. I put them in an old piece of cardboard to make sure I kept them in sequence and on the correct side so as to keep them where they were worn in at.
Assembly was the reverse. Put the heads on loosely, put in the push rods, lift the head up and turn the rocker arms back into position, (kind of hard to get all of them in place without some pressure on one side or the other to keep them from rotating) then torque the head with the proper sequence.
Oh ok thank you much I appreciate your help!!
Appreciate the video, I've got a 93 Dakota 3.9 with very similar problems.
I don't know if I mentioned it somewhere else, but my radiator ended up being the cause of my overheating. Some moron dumped so much stop leak into it that it was almost totally plugged at the bottom. If your head gasket and thermostat housing don't solve your problem, I'd suggest ordering a new radiator or trying to find an aluminum one out of a junk yard.
@@hellcat1988 actually my problem is a broken thermostat housing bolt that rusted out or whatever. I drilled it out and retapped threads but I drilled a little to far and I'm I'm wondering if I can braze it without taking the intake all the way off?
@@michaelmask4520 Best not to risk it, given how easy it is to take the intake off and how cheap the seals are. Doing it right is more work, and more time, but dumping water into the oil is a quick way to end an engine.
@@hellcat1988 that's what I was thinking also, just didn't want to do more work but you are right. I'll take the advice and do this job right. Thanks again
@@michaelmask4520 Good luck.
So it looks like you took the top part of the engine off without taking off the carb/throttle body? I need to do the gaskets but I want to hey as much info as I can before I take everything apart.
you still around? i got to the head bolts and loosened them up (i have an 01 dakota sport 4x4 3.9l v6 with a blown head gasket) not sure if i have to take anything off the front face of the engine holding the head in place: In other words, what all is holding those two cylinder heads in place other than the head bolts under the rockers and pushrods?
Some of the accessories or accessory mount brackets are bolted to both the head and the block, so you'll need to remove them. The exhaust manifolds are also a good idea to remove. Finally, the intake plenum is bolted to both and will need new gaskets. (add a dab of silicone to the edges of the cork intake gaskets where they meet the heads to get a better oil seal when reassembling)
To get the intake off, you'll need to get the fuel rail disconnected from the fuel lines, or leave the lines connected and unbolt the fuel rail from the intake. I don't recommend the second option, but it'd what I had to do because I couldn't get the fuel lines to let go.
You'll also need to get the throttle linkage disconnected and out of the way.
The egr tube is on the back of the engine, if I remember correctly, and that's a bit of a pain to disconnect, but it also has to come loose if I remember correctly.
To save yourself from breaking it, I also recommend taking the oil pressure sending unit off the engine before removing the intake. It's the sensor on the back of the engine next to where the egr tube goes into the intake manifold. Just remember to put it back in before starting the truck or you'll spray oil everywhere. You can borrow a water heater element socket from many small local mom and pop hardware stores to be able to get it out and back in. Just make sure you get the right size.
Finally, before you even bother to get too far into the teardown, I absolutely recommend trying to find the cast aluminum radiator tube outlet as shown in this video. It solves a long running issue with this engine where the stamped part doesn't seal well and causes radiator leaks, which leads to overheating, which leads to warped heads, which leads to blown head gaskets.
@@hellcat1988 thank you i appreciate your insight. Another question, i see that full heads are on sale for our engine at autozone for $330 each basically and they come machined and whatnot. if i find warpage on my head with this .015 feeler gauge i have and can’t even it up, will it be cheaper to buy 2 new heads then two machine 2 old heads? if i install new heads do i have to crank a pulley, rotate the engine, and ‘reset’ the timing a certain way or is it just plug ‘n play in the sense of just bolting new heads on without adjusting time?
@@hellcat1988 also im so grateful you answered in the first place both me and my buddy you’re like the only guy with good understanding of this neglected ass 3.9l
@@glenmorebarchan You always want to go over new heads with a fine tooth comb and make sure that all the valves are seating properly, that the valve keepers are in place, that there isn't any assembly or casting debris anywhere, and that they are flat and even. There are a few videos on youtube showing what you should do first when buying new heads to help you with that.
I have no experience with having heads machined, as I've never bothered to do that. For me, with older vehicles, it's always been cheaper to just buy a whole new engine out of a junkyard than to dig down into the engine and have parts blueprinted at a shop.
Any time that you've taken the heads off, you'll need to make sure you have all the timing marks lined up during assembly or you're gonna have a bad time, and maybe bent valves.
What is the front part called on the engine ? I know the water pump attaches to it, then that attaches to the engine itself. I have coolant leaking from what looks like the gasket but I'm not sure. Any help would be much appreciated.
If you're looking at the part with the water pump recess, that is the timing cover. There should never be coolant leaking from behind that. If there is, you may have more damage than you realize. Finding out the problem now could save you plenty in repairs later if water is getting into the oil.
did you have oil pressure issues from the blown head gasket?
+darren smith
Sorry I missed the notification about your comment.
No I didn't have any oil pressure issues from the head gasket, and it turns out it wasn't the actual cause of the overheat in my truck. There was enough stop leak in the system that the entire bottom of the radiator was plugged up and restricting flow.
The head gaskets needed to be done to clean the silicone out of the engine but I ended up replacing my radiator with one out of a junk yard and recently had to clear out my heater core with "the works" when the temp got down in the teens below zero here. The cleaner was solid blue/teal going in and orange coming out so that should give you some idea of how much crap was/is in the system.
I even found a floating ball of silicone in the radiator a few months back so I'm betting there's still debris in the cooling system even now.
That's a pipe for smog pump bud no worries still a great video tho
That is the egr valve feed tube, coming from the exhaust manifold. I know that because 1, I am fully capable of recognizing what a smog pump is, and what an egr valve is, and 2, the round hole directly above it, full of black soot, is where the tube feeds into the egr valve before entering the intake manifold through the rectangular port behind it when commanded by the ecu.
@@hellcat1988 ok then how was mine hooked up to the smog pump on my 89 tbi which up to late 92 was the same block as what u n me both have different intakes. So it's nothing to do with the EGR it's all smog. Cuz trust me I'd be more than glad to show ya or I can ya. U have two rub lines which looks like rad hoses which go from a smog pump which belt driven. That metal line connects not just both sides of the exhaust manifolds but also runs into ur cat. Try again. How do I know this, I own a Dakota sport 3.9
@@1992hotrod Do yourself a favor and google 92 dodge dakota 3.9L magnum egr valve. Then maybe take a breath, watch the multiple videos or look at the multiple diagrams showing that the dakota 3.9l magnum in 92 DOESN'T have a smog pump, DOES have an egr valve, and it's on the back of the intake manifold, fed by the pipe off the exhaust, exactly like I said it is.
The 91 DOES have a smog pump. The block being the same doesn't matter because it's the INTAKE that the egr is plumbed into. Another difference is that the 92 dakota 3.9l had MULTIPORT injection, not TBI like the 91. Google the chrysler LA engine wiki and do some dam reading, look at a few pictures, and maybe get your facts straight.
@@hellcat1988 do urself a favor n come find this ol mechanic let me show u a few things. U'll thank me for it
@@hellcat1988 better yet why don't u go to California n look under the hoods of them Dakotas guess what u'll find smog pumps
I was working on my 96 Dakota earlier today and i was change my pcv valve and while removing the old pcv, it disassembled and the bottom half of the pcv remained. After i few attempts to remove it , i ended up pushing the very bottom piece in right before it covers out (from bottom to top). What can do this do to my engine and should i attempt to remove the little piece (with help by someone more experienced) or will i be ok with the piece there?
If it was the pcv valve it will have dropped into your valve train and COULD (in a worse case scenario) cause some serious damage.
Thankfully, it's a relatively easy job to take the valve cover off and retrieve the piece, though I'd suggest getting new valve cover gaskets before you do it if you can leave the truck sitting. If not, you might get a slight oil leak from the old gaskets until you replace them.
If you want to try to run the engine with that piece in there, it should only be thin stamped steel so the valve train SHOULD be able to smash it and knock it out of the way until it settles into the oil channels in the head until you remove it, but I don't like using the word should when working on vehicles. It can get caught in parts and cause a horrible rattle for a long while, scratching up the parts of the valve train until you pull it out.
If it were me, I'd take it out before running the truck again.
hellcat1988 alright ima go with the safest option and remove the valve cover, replace the gasket and remove the piece. i thank you so much, on point with the youtube comments i love it. thanks again will update once its done.
I can't always respond right away but I'm glad I can help. Make sure
you either take pictures or memorize where everything goes.
can i get the part number for that aluminum water neck from oriellys?
It's been a NUMBER of years since I bought the part so I don't have the number any longer. You'll have to go on their website and look it up yourself. Here's one I found just by googling it.
www.stockwiseauto.com/four-seasons-85181-engine-coolant-water-outlet?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-arTjoim2gIVVkwNCh09SwjEEAkYBiABEgLtJvD_BwE&fit_id=7685&Year=1993&Make=Dodge&Model=Dakota&gsID=pxf1104198f7685&