I was in the market for a Sienna of this generation shown in the video (2004-2010). I'm lucky I found one with rear disk breaks. Yes they come as an option in certain "packages". The funny thing that you can find them in the lowest trim CE and you may not find them in the higher trim XLE. Disk breaks are standard in Limited Edition Only. If you're buying CE, LE, or XLE you have to visually inspect and look under the car to check if they're drums or disks. I wrote this comment because I HATE DRUM BREAKS.
This is where the US governments needs to step in and make them illegal (drum brakes) they usually take me 2-4hrs to replace v. 20 mins with front disks.
What an amazing video. Thank you for the help. It was nice to know that everything needed to be placed accordingly or step by step. It would've taken us a century to put it back the way we were doing it. Thanks again.
I am replacing the rear brakes on a silver 2007 Sienna exactly like the one in this video. Thank you so much for making this video it made the job a piece of cake! 👍👍
Last rear brake drums I did was on my 89 Corolla. It’s been so long that I will have to take a picture or video before removing any brake parts. I’ll be doing this work soon on my Dad’s old amigo Sienna ...He’s 85 and lives alone on a fix income, I’ll charge him some beers 🍺 for my time 🧰
Great video.... I'm getting ready to do my brakes and this is easy to follow. Thanks. One suggestion... the removal of the C clips. One of them (the second removal) has holes on either side/tip. Those are for a special pair of needlenose pliers with a pin on the side of each jaw that fit in those holes. Squeezing the pliers (they open, rather than close) easily spreads a C clip so it can be removed. Saves hassling with a screwdriver.
Thanks for including the thread size for the jack bolts. By the way, I work on boilers and so I rebuild pumps every now and then. We call them jack bolts. Please, don’t call them jack off bolts 😂 great video. Thanks.
In the process of changing pads and rotors on a 2012 XLE. I made sure we purchased a model with pads all way around. I struggled to get rotor rear router off and when I did guess what I found? That’s right shoes. Guess I’ll be learning that today. Your video will help. Thanks!!!
Good video. Helped with changing original shoes on my 2006 LE. Am slightly disappointed in Toyota for not providing a hole in the drum for accessing the adjuster. Used ceramic shoes from Detroit Axle that came pre-chamfered, although the Toyota originals are not chamfered.
a old tip pull both drums off but work on one side at a time so you have example where all the parts go it may advoid alot of confusion and frustration drum brakes can be a real pain thanks
Great video. Only thing I would add is to try to put some brake grease where the shoes contact the backing plate. You can get little packets from auto zone for a buck or two. Not 100% necessary but it allows the pads to retract easier for less drag when you're not braking. Also wear some safety glass when messing with springs.
Great tutorial! It's been indispensable for replacing my drum brakes. The only real problem I faced (besides some unrelated hiccups like a wheel stud breaking off) is how hard two of the damn springs are to reinstall. They seem to require a hell of a lot of strength. I have a feeling it's due to my buying a 4" vise grip, which some ppl refer to as a mini vise grip, instead of a 6" one, which seems to be the standard size. The 4" one is just too small for my hands to get enough leverage on. I have a 6.5" one arriving tomorrow and hopefully I can it to finish up replacing one of the brakes. Almost done though and the second one should take much less time! Edit: The problem was that I mixed up the two smallest springs (adjusting lever and anchor springs). The anchor spring at the bottom that connects the front and rear shoe together is very strong compared to the one that's attached to the adjusting lever lmao. Once I swapped them, it was easy. My first drum brake replaced! Also, a 6" or 6.5" vise grip makes this job a lot easier compared to a 4".
@@JoDaddysGarage Very nice. I already removed it using a tie rod end remover tool I rented instead of using a hammer. This tool is so useful as a clamp I might just buy one outright lol. First drum brake replaced and I never imagined I'd be able to do something like this. Hopefully it works correctly since I made sure to install everything together perfectly. Much thanks!
@@MrFakit hate them, took me 2hrs for the 1st one (I forget how to do it every 2-3yrs, the 2nd took me 30mins) The government should step in and outlaw them.
You did not adjust shoes, after you out drum back?? There is hole, in a plate, covered with rubber plug, at the top, after you put drum back, you should adjust shoes with screwdriver, from that hole: you turn first all in, drum can't turn, and, I believe, 5 to 6 click open, and then they are adjusted!!! You should show/ mention that also, important!!!! Some say, factory says 8 clicks???, I have noticed, 5 to 6 is OK! Thanks, youtheman =)
Actually, that's not always necessary. The internal adjuster is activated by backing up and hitting your brakes gently a few times. That's why it's in there. I'd rather have the shoes lightly rub the drum as I install it than to struggle with trying to guess the right number of clicks.
@@JoDaddysGarage good to know that backing up will eventually adjust them correctly, I didn't back the screw out before putting the drum back on and the brake hits the floor board w/o holding the car. I will do a series of back up braking to adjust them :) Great video BTW. Also, I found it helpful to put those coiled spring holders on to hold onto the brake shoes when your trying to put that long blue spring that's coiled around the brake adjusting screw. (instead of holding them up with your knee)
My rear brakes on my 87 Buick Grand Nat'l and 70 Camaro was so much easier to do. I noticed you didn't use any brake grease on the backing plate where the back of the shoes will rub when engaged. Maybe it differs from GM.
My question, I have rear disk brakes on that model van, but when I removed the rotors, the drum brakes were there too? Do I need to replace those if I have disk brakes? Why the drum brakes on that if I have the disk brakes? Your input would be nice.
I have a 2007 Sienna and want to do the rear drums. I'm wondering how many miles there was on the car. I have 108,000. I'm easy on the breaks. I did the front two years ago. Much easier. Can I ask what size bolts do you use to loosen the drums? Thanks for the video. I'll be doing it one day.
With only 108,000 miles, my bet is that you still have over half of the lining thickness remaining and are nowhere close to needing new shoes. According to the Owner's Manual, the lining limit is 1.0mm, although I wouldn't wait for them to get that thin.
HELP: what do I do if the second piece you removed and the large spring on top would not come off from mine, no matter how much i tried to. I loosened the thing just as you did and still it's stuck.
have a 1998 toyota sienna le. this helped a lot. i was on planning on getting hardware kit to also replace springs. my left rear is leaking, most likely the cylinder. is it really just making sure everything fits and is in the right place?
@@JoDaddysGarage would this e from the bleeding nipple outside or from the cylinder itself? is this a separate procedure from normal brake bleeding? i was planning on getting those $40 kits from amazon
is centric an okay brand? they have a wheel cylinder, shoes and drum for both rear for like $150. i dont plan on having the car much longer than 2 years
As it turned out, there was a little burr of metal. just enough to make it not fit. After pressing and rotating the piece with the hole in it, it went on.
03:25-03:45 We would hope that the added complexity has yielded a more efficient, longer-lasting braking system. Whether it has, is unknown. Trade Secrets! Thank God for Japanese resilience and respect. If you can analyze what they do and determine it's success, you'll stay in the game and everyone will benefit.
Best vid by a huge margin.
I was in the market for a Sienna of this generation shown in the video (2004-2010). I'm lucky I found one with rear disk breaks.
Yes they come as an option in certain "packages". The funny thing that you can find them in the lowest trim CE and you may not find them in the higher trim XLE.
Disk breaks are standard in Limited Edition Only.
If you're buying CE, LE, or XLE you have to visually inspect and look under the car to check if they're drums or disks.
I wrote this comment because I HATE DRUM BREAKS.
Good info.
This is where the US governments needs to step in and make them illegal (drum brakes) they usually take me 2-4hrs to replace v. 20 mins with front disks.
What an amazing video. Thank you for the help. It was nice to know that everything needed to be placed accordingly or step by step. It would've taken us a century to put it back the way we were doing it. Thanks again.
Make sure have handy(foot) brake release before removing the drum off.
I am replacing the rear brakes on a silver 2007 Sienna exactly like the one in this video. Thank you so much for making this video it made the job a piece of cake! 👍👍
Thanks. Perfect camera awareness. explaining in Clear Plain english, Rare these days!!
Last rear brake drums I did was on my 89 Corolla. It’s been so long that I will have to take a picture or video before removing any brake parts. I’ll be doing this work soon on my Dad’s old amigo Sienna ...He’s 85 and lives alone on a fix income, I’ll charge him some beers 🍺 for my time 🧰
COOL. Like folks who help out for some beers.
Great step-by-step illustration and explanation. I will do mine, a 2002 Toyota Sienna soon. Thanks!
Great video.... I'm getting ready to do my brakes and this is easy to follow. Thanks. One suggestion... the removal of the C clips. One of them (the second removal) has holes on either side/tip. Those are for a special pair of needlenose pliers with a pin on the side of each jaw that fit in those holes. Squeezing the pliers (they open, rather than close) easily spreads a C clip so it can be removed. Saves hassling with a screwdriver.
Thanks for including the thread size for the jack bolts. By the way, I work on boilers and so I rebuild pumps every now and then. We call them jack bolts. Please, don’t call them jack off bolts 😂 great video. Thanks.
😂
I am going to my drum brakes on my 2007 Sienna, your video is a great resource, thanks!!!
In the process of changing pads and rotors on a 2012 XLE. I made sure we purchased a model with pads all way around. I struggled to get rotor rear router off and when I did guess what I found? That’s right shoes. Guess I’ll be learning that today. Your video will help. Thanks!!!
This is super helpful. I had to replace my wheel cylinder and this is the clearest video on removing the brake shoes. Thanks!
Just did the drum brakes on my 05 Sienna and your video was a huge help. Very clear step by step instructions.
I really appreciate you dedication on this project, 🙏
Good video. Helped with changing original shoes on my 2006 LE. Am slightly disappointed in Toyota for not providing a hole in the drum for accessing the adjuster. Used ceramic shoes from Detroit Axle that came pre-chamfered, although the Toyota originals are not chamfered.
Thanks for the jacking bolt tip. I'm in South Carolina and couldn't get the drum off.
a old tip pull both drums off but work on one side at a time so you have example where all the parts go it may advoid alot of confusion and frustration drum brakes can be a real pain thanks
Yep. Thought I mentioned that. I know I have in other videos.
Yes, you did mention it at the end.
Good point. He mentioned did kne at a time not pull one off for reference
They did look a little more involved than the drum brakes that I have seen. You made it look pretty simple.
Thanks for this video, it was very helpful and to the point.
Great video. Only thing I would add is to try to put some brake grease where the shoes contact the backing plate. You can get little packets from auto zone for a buck or two. Not 100% necessary but it allows the pads to retract easier for less drag when you're not braking. Also wear some safety glass when messing with springs.
This is one of the best videos I ever seen in the quality is really nice thank you sir
Thank you for the video.really helped me out.
Thank you very much for the great video and explanation, it helped a lot to repair my friend's car.
thanks for uploading this
Thank you very much. Very helpful .
Great how to. Thank you for sharing.
All my best.
Bobby
Great tutorial! It's been indispensable for replacing my drum brakes. The only real problem I faced (besides some unrelated hiccups like a wheel stud breaking off) is how hard two of the damn springs are to reinstall. They seem to require a hell of a lot of strength. I have a feeling it's due to my buying a 4" vise grip, which some ppl refer to as a mini vise grip, instead of a 6" one, which seems to be the standard size. The 4" one is just too small for my hands to get enough leverage on. I have a 6.5" one arriving tomorrow and hopefully I can it to finish up replacing one of the brakes. Almost done though and the second one should take much less time!
Edit: The problem was that I mixed up the two smallest springs (adjusting lever and anchor springs). The anchor spring at the bottom that connects the front and rear shoe together is very strong compared to the one that's attached to the adjusting lever lmao. Once I swapped them, it was easy. My first drum brake replaced! Also, a 6" or 6.5" vise grip makes this job a lot easier compared to a 4".
I have a video on wheel stud replacement too.
@@JoDaddysGarage Very nice. I already removed it using a tie rod end remover tool I rented instead of using a hammer. This tool is so useful as a clamp I might just buy one outright lol. First drum brake replaced and I never imagined I'd be able to do something like this. Hopefully it works correctly since I made sure to install everything together perfectly. Much thanks!
Oh Jees what did I get myself into... Wish I had found this video sooner. It’s a great instructional.
Thanks! It helped me a lot.
good thing you had a video..
Thanks for video. I’m about to do the shoes on an ‘04.
Thank You! awesome video.
Thx man I just changed mine.
Brake pads and rotors I will do myself. Brake shoes? I’m going to a mechanic. 😩
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Excellent video! Thank you.
Cool video. I'm gonna do those on my Toyota
I just did the back brakes on my Toyota sienna thanks for the video help me out a lot test driving it right now
Good job I've done the same on the uclips and with the retaining springs .
Plz make video on replacing brake linings on Toyota Sienna 2017.
Thx
Thanks for share.
Thank you very helpful
Don't know why some companies still use these on the rear wheels there so much more complicated than disc brakes
cheaper
@@MrFakit hate them, took me 2hrs for the 1st one (I forget how to do it every 2-3yrs, the 2nd took me 30mins) The government should step in and outlaw them.
video is great
My rear drum driver side makes like a howl sound when coming to a stop more of a slow stop but....
You did not adjust shoes, after you out drum back?? There is hole, in a plate, covered with rubber plug, at the top, after you put drum back, you should adjust shoes with screwdriver, from that hole: you turn first all in, drum can't turn, and, I believe, 5 to 6 click open, and then they are adjusted!!! You should show/ mention that also, important!!!! Some say, factory says 8 clicks???, I have noticed, 5 to 6 is OK! Thanks, youtheman =)
Actually, that's not always necessary. The internal adjuster is activated by backing up and hitting your brakes gently a few times. That's why it's in there. I'd rather have the shoes lightly rub the drum as I install it than to struggle with trying to guess the right number of clicks.
I am just telling you how you suppose to do it;o) you do what you want.....
@@JoDaddysGarage good to know that backing up will eventually adjust them correctly, I didn't back the screw out before putting the drum back on and the brake hits the floor board w/o holding the car. I will do a series of back up braking to adjust them :) Great video BTW. Also, I found it helpful to put those coiled spring holders on to hold onto the brake shoes when your trying to put that long blue spring that's coiled around the brake adjusting screw. (instead of holding them up with your knee)
Thanks a lot.
That's a lot of pieces.
My rear brakes on my 87 Buick Grand Nat'l and 70 Camaro was so much easier to do. I noticed you didn't use any brake grease on the backing plate where the back of the shoes will rub when engaged. Maybe it differs from GM.
I don't put grease there. Grease will accumulate brake dust, and movement is so minimal, it's not worth it in my opinion.
Thank you! Very helpful
Hello, drum brakes do have ABS? Or only the front disk brakes have ABS?
I don’t know for sure but I would say abs only works with calipers.
Great video! Confident with disc, now i'll be confident with drum after tomorrow! Thanks again!
My question, I have rear disk brakes on that model van, but when I removed the rotors, the drum brakes were there too? Do I need to replace those if I have disk brakes? Why the drum brakes on that if I have the disk brakes?
Your input would be nice.
The drum brakes are for your parking brake. They normally don’t need changed.
They make snap-ring pliers for a reason. Save the headache.
Those weren't snap rings. Your incorrect
Can I use a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean and get rid of the dust?
Yes.
I have a 2007 Sienna and want to do the rear drums. I'm wondering how many miles there was on the car. I have 108,000. I'm easy on the breaks. I did the front two years ago. Much easier. Can I ask what size bolts do you use to loosen the drums? Thanks for the video. I'll be doing it one day.
Not sure
M8-1.25 x 30 mm
With only 108,000 miles, my bet is that you still have over half of the lining thickness remaining and are nowhere close to needing new shoes. According to the Owner's Manual, the lining limit is 1.0mm, although I wouldn't wait for them to get that thin.
HELP: what do I do if the second piece you removed and the large spring on top would not come off from mine, no matter how much i tried to. I loosened the thing just as you did and still it's stuck.
Is it rusted?
Jo Daddy's Garage yes a lot of rust.
Wish I could offer better advice, but rust is the worst.
Jo Daddy's Garage ok thanks anyway
have a 1998 toyota sienna le. this helped a lot. i was on planning on getting hardware kit to also replace springs. my left rear is leaking, most likely the cylinder. is it really just making sure everything fits and is in the right place?
Pretty much. Of course if the cylinder is leaking, you know it will need bled.
@@JoDaddysGarage would this e from the bleeding nipple outside or from the cylinder itself? is this a separate procedure from normal brake bleeding? i was planning on getting those $40 kits from amazon
Normal brake bleeding. Just wanted to emphasize.
is centric an okay brand? they have a wheel cylinder, shoes and drum for both rear for like $150. i dont plan on having the car much longer than 2 years
@@cvete01 Should be fine. Did you check Rock Auto?
My 2007 sienna xle has brake pads and a different system for the rear brakes. What model of sienna is that?
I don't recall, but it's likely the base model.
Jo Daddy’s Garage at 19:57 how did you get it to fit ?
As it turned out, there was a little burr of metal. just enough to make it not fit. After pressing and rotating the piece with the hole in it, it went on.
GJ
👍
03:25-03:45 We would hope that the added complexity has yielded a more efficient, longer-lasting braking system. Whether it has, is unknown. Trade Secrets! Thank God for Japanese resilience and respect. If you can analyze what they do and determine it's success, you'll stay in the game and everyone will benefit.
👍🙏🤝
Need place pcv
every time Oops ^^