Great information for all of us Savage rifle owners . Now I know how to install a barrel on my rifle the right way . That’ll save me some money instead of taking it to a gunsmith. Thanks. Cheers 🍻
Love my Teslong. Now my Hawk Eye is just gathering dust. It has changed my barrel cleaning regime forever! Also thanks for all the links. So many YT's just blow through explanations and dont realize a lot of guys are newbies and want to know whats in the background.
Ok... from a guy that use to calibrate torque wrenches. Doing that triple clicking you went 5 to 15 ftlb over 45 at the wrench pivot. One click is all you need.
Good video. Done many myself. To new people watching and reading this, be mindful of the extractor and making sure to get the rim of the gauge under it or remove it completely. Some people prefer to remove the ejector also. With that said I don’t remove anything. Just pay attention.
I've shot a bunch of centerfire rifle brands and tinkered with those I have shot and owned. Savage is just the Chevy 350 engine of rifles. They are accurate, relatively easy to work on, parts and accessories can be found easily and they aren't as expensive as other brands that they are up to par with on accuracy. Actions aren't as smooth but with some elbow grease they can become acceptable for most of those beginning their journey into target shooting. Professional competitors are going to use the best equipment, "they" can afford. For the weekend warrior, Savage gives, if you are a tinkerer, the ability to learn a lot about the workings and experience in your field of choice on the cheap in my humble opinion.
The E.R. Shaw barrel kits make a great diy project if you want a hunting rifle in a different caliber since they come with a barrel nut wrench and headspace gauges too. Really wish this video was around when I did my swap, I love how you break things down so they sound as simple as they actually are. Keep up the excellent work sir!
I have a Savage 10 .308 I really like. The more of your videos I watch the more it think it might be getting a 6.5 barrel this Fall. And that will be an excuse to start reloading. 😃 Not getting a wallop in your action is definitely good advice, too.
i have found better accuracy, or should i say consistency headspacting off of the ammo/brass i intend to use. Then checking with a go gauge and no go gauge. Usually ends up on the tighter side. The only issue with this is ammo other than used to headspace may not allow you to close the bolt. If putting one together for sale or for someone else i would do it exactly like you did here. Just food for thought. Try it on brass you have already sized. Shoot some groups and see if you find the same.
@@crcdesign9886 if you're reloading, just be sure your brass is size the same that you head spaced with. Should make things a lot more consistent. Just means if you switch ammo up you might have headspace issues.
I used a .250 Precision ground and pinned lug from Brownells. If you mic the factory lug, they are in the shape of a wedge rather then being the same thickness across the entire face. Maybe I’ll show that in my next video.!
Got the Savage 110 Ultralite. The fluting is so aggressive, it’s like racking a cheese grater. Thinking of switching out to a smooth bolt body. Will I need to readjust head spacing when changing out bolt body? Obviously I’ll check with gauges.
It isn’t the depth of the flutes necessarily. I have a custom action with deeper flutes that’s smoother than a tikka. It just comes down to the machine work, and the tolerances. If anything send it off to be nitrided. It will make a significant difference.
Do you have any experience with any of the aftermarket triggers available for savage? I was interested in the one by Jard, but its a bit pricey and I can't find much info on them.
Here is a link to the wrench set for the savage. They are inexpensive but work great.! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DKS6LK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002DKS6LK&linkCode=as2&tag=vaughnprecisi-20&linkId=e184476d1cfe15e584cef8747d7b872f
@@vaughnprecision thanks for adding that link! I've seen that on midway for sale, I thought it was for smooth barrel nuts but I had never measured the diameter of the smooth but and compared it to the action
@fattigla the directions say it's for a smooth barrel nut, but it seems to work for the action as well. I plan on using it for the action also. I was glad to see it being used that way.
Hello, Have been following a number of your Savage videos and with this one I have to ask. I see you are using the Wheeler Nut wrench tools to do this with a barrel vice and not an action wrench. Have you had any issues doing it this way? Would you recommend an action wrench over the Wheeler to hold the action? If this works, great. Really don't want to buy a $60.00+ wrench for a possible one time use
So I’m doing some research and I thought I would ask an expert. I’m in the market for a lathe to do barrel work. Mostly bolt action percision rifle stuff. What would be good lathe to invest in. I’ve been looking into the percision matthews 1440gs. What do you think is a good lathe for chamber/barrel work? Thanks! I’m glad your back at in and mostly recovered.
I like Grizzly brand lathes, I’ve got the cheaper model and still get some great precision work done on it. They have some higher end models that have a ton more features. Nothing wrong with Jet or Mathews either.
merry christmas..Are all the barrel nuts the same size for savage if its a factory barrel? Ex. if I'm going from a sporter contour to a heavy varmint in the same caliber will I need a new nut and wrench?
@@vaughnprecision I’m sorry I should of phrased my question differently. I have a savage axis in 223 with a factory contour. I have a barrel I bought but it’s a varmint contour. Can I use the same nut and wrench?
@@crcdesign9886 yes, most likely you can use the same nut and wrench. I simply can’t say 100% because I can’t see them but in my experience that will work
If I'm not mistaken remington 770s have pressed in barrels. Once the barrel goes may as well toss the whole thing. Not worth the machining cost even IF the barrel could somehow be removed.
On this one I didn’t remove it but it’s a good idea to do so. Once you get the feel for it you don’t have to remove it. If your new to it I would recommend taking it out
Great Video Buddy , easy to understand and that bore scope rocks !!!!
Glad you addressed the recoil lug alignment, I was wondering how you aligned that. Great stuff, love it!
Great information for all of us Savage rifle owners . Now I know how to install a barrel on my rifle the right way . That’ll save me some money instead of taking it to a gunsmith. Thanks. Cheers 🍻
Love my Teslong. Now my Hawk Eye is just gathering dust. It has changed my barrel cleaning regime forever! Also thanks for all the links. So many YT's just blow through explanations and dont realize a lot of guys are newbies and want to know whats in the background.
Another well done and easy to follow video! Thanks for keeping it simple and informative.
Ok... from a guy that use to calibrate torque wrenches. Doing that triple clicking you went 5 to 15 ftlb over 45 at the wrench pivot. One click is all you need.
Terrific video....I’ve done a number of Savage barrels, and yours is the best, clearest and understandable tutorial I’ve seen. Thanks
Good video. Done many myself. To new people watching and reading this, be mindful of the extractor and making sure to get the rim of the gauge under it or remove it completely. Some people prefer to remove the ejector also. With that said I don’t remove anything. Just pay attention.
Man I love your channel you don’t no how many times I have went to your videos with my savage 6br build keep up the good videos bud
I've shot a bunch of centerfire rifle brands and tinkered with those I have shot and owned. Savage is just the Chevy 350 engine of rifles. They are accurate, relatively easy to work on, parts and accessories can be found easily and they aren't as expensive as other brands that they are up to par with on accuracy. Actions aren't as smooth but with some elbow grease they can become acceptable for most of those beginning their journey into target shooting. Professional competitors are going to use the best equipment, "they" can afford. For the weekend warrior, Savage gives, if you are a tinkerer, the ability to learn a lot about the workings and experience in your field of choice on the cheap in my humble opinion.
Exactly how I’ve done it. Good stuff!
The E.R. Shaw barrel kits make a great diy project if you want a hunting rifle in a different caliber since they come with a barrel nut wrench and headspace gauges too. Really wish this video was around when I did my swap, I love how you break things down so they sound as simple as they actually are. Keep up the excellent work sir!
Do you have a link for where you got that kit from
Thanks for a very clear demonstration.
That was an awesome video Sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Makes me want to start looking for a donor Savage action to re-barrel.
Good to see another video from you.
I'm getting ready to get a barrel spun for my savage 12 lrp..
Thus was a good help video..
I have a Savage 10 .308 I really like. The more of your videos I watch the more it think it might be getting a 6.5 barrel this Fall. And that will be an excuse to start reloading. 😃
Not getting a wallop in your action is definitely good advice, too.
Be careful torquing the savage factor nut. They will split. I recommend using a better barrel nut. Just my 2 cent. Always enjoy your vids 👍🏻
I wanted to use an aftermarket nut, but everyone was out of stock when I went to order one. I’ll probably swap it out in the future.
i have found better accuracy, or should i say consistency headspacting off of the ammo/brass i intend to use. Then checking with a go gauge and no go gauge. Usually ends up on the tighter side. The only issue with this is ammo other than used to headspace may not allow you to close the bolt. If putting one together for sale or for someone else i would do it exactly like you did here. Just food for thought. Try it on brass you have already sized. Shoot some groups and see if you find the same.
Good info..I was wondering if I could set the headspace with a dummy round that I sized.
@@crcdesign9886 if you're reloading, just be sure your brass is size the same that you head spaced with. Should make things a lot more consistent. Just means if you switch ammo up you might have headspace issues.
Thank you, very informative video with good camera angles.
Thanks for the video. I’ve got a new barrel on order for my Savage. What about antiseize on the threads? Is it necessary?
It’s not totally necessary, if you do add some make it a minimal amount
Great video. 👍
Good video and information thanks for sharing
very well explained and informative thanks!🙂
Good video, thank you.
Can you do a video on removing the old barrel on a savage. I like your videos on savage swap but the old barrel is already out. Thanks
Do you need to remove the ejector and extractor on the bolt when using the Go gauge to set headspace ?
where do you get your go. gauge action reaches from great video
Great Video
Thanks for the visit
Nice video, great done, thanks
When you mentioned upgrading the lug, what did you use and why?
I used a .250 Precision ground and pinned lug from Brownells. If you mic the factory lug, they are in the shape of a wedge rather then being the same thickness across the entire face. Maybe I’ll show that in my next video.!
Is this like a drop in barrel if there is such a word? I've heard this is a similar method Ruger RPR.
In a way it is.
It's called a pre-fit barrel. You can also do it with a Remington 700 ("Remage conversion").
Got the Savage 110 Ultralite. The fluting is so aggressive, it’s like racking a cheese grater. Thinking of switching out to a smooth bolt body. Will I need to readjust head spacing when changing out bolt body? Obviously I’ll check with gauges.
Yes, you will definitely need to reset the headspace.!
It isn’t the depth of the flutes necessarily. I have a custom action with deeper flutes that’s smoother than a tikka. It just comes down to the machine work, and the tolerances. If anything send it off to be nitrided. It will make a significant difference.
Do you have any experience with any of the aftermarket triggers available for savage? I was interested in the one by Jard, but its a bit pricey and I can't find much info on them.
I do have some and they are nice. The down side is they are pricey
Do you headspace with the extractor on the bolt or do you remove it ? I Have a savage 110
I remove it 99% of the time
@@vaughnprecision thank you so much really appreciated
Excellent!!!
I'v never seen an action wrench like that. Where is that from or did you manufacture that ?
thank you
Here is a link to the wrench set for the savage. They are inexpensive but work great.! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DKS6LK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002DKS6LK&linkCode=as2&tag=vaughnprecisi-20&linkId=e184476d1cfe15e584cef8747d7b872f
@@vaughnprecision thanks for adding that link! I've seen that on midway for sale, I thought it was for smooth barrel nuts but I had never measured the diameter of the smooth but and compared it to the action
thank you for the link
@fattigla the directions say it's for a smooth barrel nut, but it seems to work for the action as well. I plan on using it for the action also. I was glad to see it being used that way.
Where did you get your Barrel at? How many grooves how many twists and my Savage 11 has a smooth barrel nut
This is a “Preferred Barrel”. You can look them up and contact them for details
I know the torque for a Savage barrel nut... it's somewhere between a grunt and a grunt-and-a-half.
Hello, Have been following a number of your Savage videos and with this one I have to ask. I see you are using the Wheeler Nut wrench tools to do this with a barrel vice and not an action wrench. Have you had any issues doing it this way? Would you recommend an action wrench over the Wheeler to hold the action?
If this works, great. Really don't want to buy a $60.00+ wrench for a possible one time use
I actually use them both and you’ll definitely need an action wrench. I know it’s more money but when you need it you really can’t get by without it
So I’m doing some research and I thought I would ask an expert. I’m in the market for a lathe to do barrel work. Mostly bolt action percision rifle stuff. What would be good lathe to invest in. I’ve been looking into the percision matthews 1440gs. What do you think is a good lathe for chamber/barrel work? Thanks! I’m glad your back at in and mostly recovered.
I like Grizzly brand lathes, I’ve got the cheaper model and still get some great precision work done on it. They have some higher end models that have a ton more features. Nothing wrong with Jet or Mathews either.
Have you installed a Remage barrel?
Yes, I’ve done a couple
@@vaughnprecision for a rem 700 re-barrel, would you recommend? Seems much easier than traditional barrel swap.
Do you have to take the plunger out to check your headspace
I do recommend it yes
Mount your torque wrench 90 degrees to the tool and no calculation for the extension will be required.
merry christmas..Are all the barrel nuts the same size for savage if its a factory barrel? Ex. if I'm going from a sporter contour to a heavy varmint in the same caliber will I need a new nut and wrench?
No; these is a large size (uncommon) and a standard size that is the most common. You probably have the standard size
@@vaughnprecision I’m sorry I should of phrased my question differently. I have a savage axis in 223 with a factory contour. I have a barrel I bought but it’s a varmint contour. Can I use the same nut and wrench?
@@crcdesign9886 yes, most likely you can use the same nut and wrench. I simply can’t say 100% because I can’t see them but in my experience that will work
How do you set head space on a Remington model 770?
Nobody seems to know.
If I'm not mistaken remington 770s have pressed in barrels. Once the barrel goes may as well toss the whole thing. Not worth the machining cost even IF the barrel could somehow be removed.
I have a question what does it take to make a savage 6.5 into 243 wen ?
Swap the barrel and set the headspace is all
Ok thanks i have seen u do all that so i guess i am going to try it
Is the ejector removed for this step?
On this one I didn’t remove it but it’s a good idea to do so. Once you get the feel for it you don’t have to remove it. If your new to it I would recommend taking it out
@@vaughnprecision what would be the issue if you didn’t remove the extractor ?
Curt did you remove the extractor from the bolt
On this one I didn’t, but 99% of the time I do remove it.
@@vaughnprecision Thanks
Did you have your ejector removed?
Ejector pin should be removed.....
Ps anyone have a savage short action stock they would post to the UK? Thanks
Ever use any type of anti seize on barrel threads?
No, not usually but I have used it before
There’s a similar setup for rem 700 made by Adams & Bennett’s
Whats the brand on the headspace guage?
Most of mine are PTG
You are supposed to strip Bolt no guts.
I like some of your vids but when i see savage nope I’m out lol