Not only a matter of having the right tools for the job but having some great and knowledgeable friends certainly helps. Really enjoyed this episode, some serious stuff with a touch of humour as always, very entertaining to watch.
Watched this episode over a couple of cups of tea, 'cheers' Mike .. ☕ Great work on sorting out the issues, 😅fingers crossed the new forks & seals will correct things for you. It's all coming along well, thanks as always for sharing. 👍 atvb t .... 🏍
Nice, work, Mike. You never know what you're going to run into with these old bikes. Look forward to seeing the assembly with the new parts. Btw, love the sound effects too! 😆🏍👍
My guess is that BSA hit a curb once that messed up the triple tree? Great Video as always Mike! I look forward to when you’re riding that,”Beezer” down the road!
I would like to see some of these other people that work on these british motorcycles would take the time to look up the procedure for correct assembly as well as disassemble these bikes. My hat is off to you at the mity garage Mike.
Nice video...well made and clearly explained. I like the way you honestly showed the false starts you encountered and how you'd learnt for the second fork. I've worked on A10s for years and wondered about these forks. Has anyone tried hard-chroming and grinding those stanchions then reaming the bushes for a modern close sliding fit? The originals have a fairly rough machined finish by today's standards which must play havoc with the seals and,to a lesser extent,the top bush...causing slop and consequent leaks (to which these are prone) Just a thought....
Excellent series and thoroughly enjoying watching them! Just to let you know, instead of installing the fork bush circlip, you can use the top bush widget from the unit twins BSA started using them from 1966 part #68-5134
That Quick-Glo works so good. It was the one thing that would actually knock old rust off chrome. I can't believe they went out of business. I would have stocked up if I had known. My last jar of it dried up because I left the cap undone. At the time I didn't realize I couldn't just go online and buy more.
With thin-nuts (the amount that protrudes for the socket to engage ) I have found that modifying a socket or ring-spanner works very-well , requiring less-torque and less chance of damage to the nut from slipping ; Sockets and 'Rings' all have an angle/chamfer anything up to 3mm , this means that only the-Top of thin Nuts (or bolts) is being engaged by the socket . I grind this flat until there are clean,sharp edges to engage the nut Fully over the entire amount that it protrudes . I cringed the first-time I did it , but still have and use the tool after many years of use and it never Jumps-off or marks anything , requiring less-force to tighten or loosen . Dave
I'm looking forward to the next video Mike. The twine is by far the best way to seal the oil seal holder to the slider. Suitably greased of course. Rolls-Royce originally used a silken thread to seal the tappet cover to the block on the V8 engines. So your in good company.
Mike, it's easier to loosen the fork caps while the forks are still held in the triple clamps on the bike and try a rattle gun instead of the spanner and hammer😂. Cheers.
Wonder if someone hit a curb at speed to bend the triple tree like that? Loved seeing these specialized tools for this job. I put roller bearing in an old KZ750 twin one time. Made a nice difference.
Hi Mike. Another very interesting video. Let me tell you how I appreciated the little french subtitle, very funny, very nice. I look forward to seeing the following videos. A bientôt. Christophe.
Just wondering what those guys at the Ace Cafe did before we could take online pedicure lessons… hope you can source all the parts you need. Thanks for sharing.
Mike, Have you ever had a metal sound when you're forks are fully extended. I've tried different oil and quality with no luck. I had a BSA in the 70's and never had this problem. Still trying to figure the out on my Mk3. Gary
Hi Gary, sorry but I haven't experienced that before. Could it be the springs rubbing or the banging noise that the forks can make for example when putting the bike on the center stand? Cheers
@TheMightyGarage If the bike is on the center stand I can compress and then go full extension which amplifiers the metal to metal sound. Will your bike do this? Thanks for the reply.
It looks as though its had some front end impact if the fork yolks are bent and the stantions have been repaired. Not surprising really considering its age.
Not only a matter of having the right tools for the job but having some great and knowledgeable friends certainly helps. Really enjoyed this episode, some serious stuff with a touch of humour as always, very entertaining to watch.
Hey, Mike, great job! I am looking forward for next steps on the fork! Greetings from northern Germany Manfred
Great job Mike, and I greatly appreciate the shout out and support 👍
Thank YOU Ade!! I really enjoy your videos. Best wishes
Fascinating. I was surprised how complicated the fork parts were.
Very productive session Mike, thanks for taking us along!
Watched this episode over a couple of cups of tea, 'cheers' Mike .. ☕
Great work on sorting out the issues, 😅fingers crossed the new forks & seals will correct things for you. It's all coming along well, thanks as always for sharing. 👍
atvb t .... 🏍
Good episode, good to see how bob fixed the twist, your doing a proper job of it, not a bodge 👍
Nice, work, Mike. You never know what you're going to run into with these old bikes. Look forward to seeing the assembly with the new parts. Btw, love the sound effects too! 😆🏍👍
Once again an object lesson in cool, calm workshop practices. Impressive.
Relaxing as ever Mike ! 🙌🙌🙌love it , chills me out! 😴😴😴🤣🤣🙌
Many thanks Philip! Glad you enjoy the videos ☺️ Best wishes, Mike
@12:54 déjà vu mais on ne s'en lasse pas !👍 Very informative !
Very nice work. Some patience comes in handy. RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
My guess is that BSA hit a curb once that messed up the triple tree? Great Video as always Mike! I look forward to when you’re riding that,”Beezer” down the road!
Fork handles, nah, four candles. That chrome polish is awesome 👍
I wonder how many of the non Brits got the reference ? Got any 'ose .
I would like to see some of these other people that work on these british motorcycles would take the time to look up the procedure for correct assembly as well as disassemble these bikes. My hat is off to you at the mity garage Mike.
Bob's a handy man to know, good job
Wow Mike, great job done, and nice to have such a support from friends who know how to fix some difficult issues.
BR from Croatia!
Nice video...well made and clearly explained.
I like the way you honestly showed the false starts you encountered and how you'd learnt for the second fork.
I've worked on A10s for years and wondered about these forks.
Has anyone tried hard-chroming and grinding those stanchions then reaming the bushes for a modern close sliding fit?
The originals have a fairly rough machined finish by today's standards which must play havoc with the seals and,to a lesser extent,the top bush...causing slop and consequent leaks (to which these are prone)
Just a thought....
PS: Taper roller bearings...best thing I ever did for my old A10...an "always fit" item now for me.
Excellent series and thoroughly enjoying watching them!
Just to let you know, instead of installing the fork bush circlip, you can use the top bush widget from the unit twins BSA started using them from 1966 part #68-5134
That Quick-Glo works so good. It was the one thing that would actually knock old rust off chrome. I can't believe they went out of business. I would have stocked up if I had known. My last jar of it dried up because I left the cap undone. At the time I didn't realize I couldn't just go online and buy more.
Sunday morning delight ! Always informative and pleasurable. Thanks Mike : Ray 🇬🇧
PS : you don’t do knee joints do you Mike 😉
hehe, hop up onto the bench Ray, I'll get the Whitworth tools and my Stanley knife out! We'll have it done in an hour 😊😊
Thanks for the captivating mechanical project, Mike. Have a brilliant week!
I made such a fork seal removal tool for my 1965 A65. It worked, but showing a picture of it would be no boast!!!
You have to have the right tool to do the job right!
Thats a slick tool!
With thin-nuts (the amount that protrudes for the socket to engage ) I have found that modifying a socket or ring-spanner works very-well , requiring less-torque and less chance of damage to the nut from slipping ; Sockets and 'Rings' all have an angle/chamfer anything up to 3mm , this means that only the-Top of thin Nuts (or bolts) is being engaged by the socket . I grind this flat until there are clean,sharp edges to engage the nut Fully over the entire amount that it protrudes . I cringed the first-time I did it , but still have and use the tool after many years of use and it never Jumps-off or marks anything , requiring less-force to tighten or loosen . Dave
I'm looking forward to the next video Mike. The twine is by far the best way to seal the oil seal holder to the slider. Suitably greased of course.
Rolls-Royce originally used a silken thread to seal the tappet cover to the block on the V8 engines. So your in good company.
An enjoyable watch. Are the new fork seals made of a different material? I assumed the originals were felt. Another great video in the series, cheers.
it`s hammer time .
just bought some quick glo £ 40 + pnp got it while its there , shame they went out of production , glad you reminded me , great video again Mike .
Mike, it's easier to loosen the fork caps while the forks are still held in the triple clamps on the bike and try a rattle gun instead of the spanner and hammer😂. Cheers.
Wonder if someone hit a curb at speed to bend the triple tree like that? Loved seeing these specialized tools for this job. I put roller bearing in an old KZ750 twin one time. Made a nice difference.
Hi Mike. Another very interesting video. Let me tell you how I appreciated the little french subtitle, very funny, very nice.
I look forward to seeing the following videos.
A bientôt.
Christophe.
14:05🙃 & 15:14 😉
👍👍👍
Just wondering what those guys at the Ace Cafe did before we could take online pedicure lessons… hope you can source all the parts you need. Thanks for sharing.
Mike, Have you ever had a metal sound when you're forks are fully extended. I've tried different oil and quality with no luck. I had a BSA in the 70's and never had this problem. Still trying to figure the out on my Mk3. Gary
Hi Gary, sorry but I haven't experienced that before. Could it be the springs rubbing or the banging noise that the forks can make for example when putting the bike on the center stand? Cheers
@TheMightyGarage If the bike is on the center stand I can compress and then go full extension which amplifiers the metal to metal sound. Will your bike do this? Thanks for the reply.
Ha ha, fork handles😂
Good video Mike! Which your pet motorcycle? Vincent, or black Norton, or which one, and why? George from Hungary
Did you not consider having the fork tubes hard chrome plated and regrouped Mike or was the damaged thread beyond repair?
It probably comes down to cost.
It looks as though its had some front end impact if the fork yolks are bent and the stantions have been repaired. Not surprising really considering its age.
I need tubes for my 68' T100s where should i buy from online?
I suppose it all depends where you are located. I got mine from Baxter cycle in Iowa.
Wat Tyler 🤣🤣🤣
Hehe, sorry for the "Revolting" comment George 😊 best wishes