Had the same experience with Chinese no-brand cobalt. Could not drill through a steel bike frame to save my life. Had to use the dremel and finally got through it after hours of wasted time. Farm project test shows the Bosch is the strongest bit from breakage ($27 on the Amazing.)
I've never heard of using the clutch for drilling holes. I believe the goal for drilling stainless is to use high feed pressure and to get through it basically as fast as possible. Using too low feed pressure will just glaze over the cutting surface and work harden it which will make it a lot more difficult to cut, or snap your drill bit apparently. The Bosch M42 cobalt drill bits are really good. They sell them in singles too so you can just buy the size you need for a project instead of the whole set.
Yes fair point you are right there, I didn't want to work harden it so I was using plenty cutting fluid and keeping temps low. The drills were producing chips and exiting metal all the way through so I think pressure was fine. Remember I wasn't using a press for this so I set the clutch lower to avoid wrenching my wrist or the bit when it jams. Ive lost plenty of small diameter bits like that when doing pilot holes etc. when a bit grabs or jams in the process or pop through in the stainless its either the wrist that takes the torque there or the bit cracks. I was a little put off the Bosch after getting some sloppy driver heads from Bosch but if you are an actual user of them then thank you I will have a look over the weekend see if they have any in the stores. Thanks for your help as I'm no expert on these things, so I'm extremely lucky that almost daily I get taught new things from my channels comments section its like having free online courses. If I pick up some Bosch cobalts il stick them on the channel. You have a great weekend mate.
@@TrailTrek I agree with you on the Bosch driver bits being iffy, but the M42 cobalt drill bits are the real deal. Check out the Project Farm video to confirm. I make knives occasionally and eventually had to pick up a few of those to drill through the (unhardened) blade stock for handle pin and weight reduction holes. A few stainless blades as well. They hold up for me. I drill through blocks of solid carbon fiber as well, and while it does take a toll on the drills because it's ridiculously abrasive stuff, they do actually get the job done unlike a cheap normal Ti coated HSS bit that just wears down to a nub. Have a dedicated carbon fiber drill bit if you're ever going to do that because it won't be sharp enough for metal anymore.
In the market for a new drill bit set. Currently, got a high tensile flush snapped bolt to drill out. Saw these on Amazon, did some research and found this video. I will be buyng something else now, thank you. Now looking at Presto Cobalt althought they don't state M42.
Thank you very much. I wish I had time to do more but that's life. Thanks for taking the time to let me know you enjoy my output I'll keep going 👍😁. Enjoy the weekend.
Really hate when drill bits do this especially when used for their specified purpose. I'm not averse to buying / using Chinese sourced products but the old adage , you get what you pay for comes to mind.
Hello' If you like to take care of your tool, take a look at Pferd products. That's THE brand for metal. (Bosch & Bahco are also good and more accessible).
I didn't know that brand il go have a look right now thank you fore this. I have some older Bosch stuff and a few crescent wrenches from Bahco so il bear that in mind.
It's the one I enjoy using for my power tools and a lot of driver bits. I should have ignored the advice I got and just went with a nice pack from Milwaukee. I used these in a Milwaukee drill.
Had the same experience with Chinese no-brand cobalt. Could not drill through a steel bike frame to save my life. Had to use the dremel and finally got through it after hours of wasted time. Farm project test shows the Bosch is the strongest bit from breakage ($27 on the Amazing.)
@@DivineMisterAdVentures I eventually got a refund on these but I don't feel like it was a one off. Will go for Bosch now.
I've never heard of using the clutch for drilling holes. I believe the goal for drilling stainless is to use high feed pressure and to get through it basically as fast as possible. Using too low feed pressure will just glaze over the cutting surface and work harden it which will make it a lot more difficult to cut, or snap your drill bit apparently.
The Bosch M42 cobalt drill bits are really good. They sell them in singles too so you can just buy the size you need for a project instead of the whole set.
Yes fair point you are right there, I didn't want to work harden it so I was using plenty cutting fluid and keeping temps low. The drills were producing chips and exiting metal all the way through so I think pressure was fine. Remember I wasn't using a press for this so I set the clutch lower to avoid wrenching my wrist or the bit when it jams. Ive lost plenty of small diameter bits like that when doing pilot holes etc. when a bit grabs or jams in the process or pop through in the stainless its either the wrist that takes the torque there or the bit cracks. I was a little put off the Bosch after getting some sloppy driver heads from Bosch but if you are an actual user of them then thank you I will have a look over the weekend see if they have any in the stores. Thanks for your help as I'm no expert on these things, so I'm extremely lucky that almost daily I get taught new things from my channels comments section its like having free online courses. If I pick up some Bosch cobalts il stick them on the channel. You have a great weekend mate.
@@TrailTrek I agree with you on the Bosch driver bits being iffy, but the M42 cobalt drill bits are the real deal. Check out the Project Farm video to confirm. I make knives occasionally and eventually had to pick up a few of those to drill through the (unhardened) blade stock for handle pin and weight reduction holes. A few stainless blades as well. They hold up for me. I drill through blocks of solid carbon fiber as well, and while it does take a toll on the drills because it's ridiculously abrasive stuff, they do actually get the job done unlike a cheap normal Ti coated HSS bit that just wears down to a nub. Have a dedicated carbon fiber drill bit if you're ever going to do that because it won't be sharp enough for metal anymore.
In the market for a new drill bit set. Currently, got a high tensile flush snapped bolt to drill out. Saw these on Amazon, did some research and found this video. I will be buyng something else now, thank you. Now looking at Presto Cobalt althought they don't state M42.
I greatly enjoy your videos.
Thank you very much. I wish I had time to do more but that's life. Thanks for taking the time to let me know you enjoy my output I'll keep going 👍😁. Enjoy the weekend.
Really hate when drill bits do this especially when used for their specified purpose. I'm not averse to buying / using Chinese sourced products but the old adage , you get what you pay for comes to mind.
Feels like that with these despite being told they were incredible. :-(
Hello' If you like to take care of your tool, take a look at Pferd products. That's THE brand for metal. (Bosch & Bahco are also good and more accessible).
I didn't know that brand il go have a look right now thank you fore this. I have some older Bosch stuff and a few crescent wrenches from Bahco so il bear that in mind.
I just found a set of files by Pferd so they are on the way to me now, I cant wait to see the quality. :-)
Milwaukee is the brand I use
It's the one I enjoy using for my power tools and a lot of driver bits. I should have ignored the advice I got and just went with a nice pack from Milwaukee. I used these in a Milwaukee drill.