Another outstanding video, Ramon. I love all of your tips and tricks that are great for new and experienced woodworkers. I love my K3 and would have a hard time going back to a cabinet saw. Thanks for the mention of my Fritz and Franz jig!! Cheers
Thanks a lot! I like sharing what works for me…I get a lot out of your tips as well. We live in an amazing time! It’s like an information revolution! 😆 Cheers
When using the rip fence with the slider, I just position the fence in front of the blade. Still aligns perfectly, and no chance of pinching. It also gives me better alignment. (You mention that afterwards)
That's a GREAT looking table saw (make that sawS) setup!!! I've now seen several situations of people even selling their SawStop saws for these sliders. I really don't think you can beat the European design, the Hammer saws are well made and, based on personal experience, although the SawStop sliding compound attachment is okay it still really doesn't compare to the traditional design. I work at a local Woodcraft part-time and I've had a chance to compare a lot of different saws on the market.
Thanks a lot! Although it is an entry level slider, it’s far superior in terms of versatility over a cabinet saw, even SawStop with its sliding thing 😆…as you mentioned. I love it …but would like to move up to a Feldor , maybe at some point.
Right!? I don’t remember adding that but I’m sure that I did. There’s no reason for the wrench to be magnetic! 🤷🏼♂️🤪 Much thanks for checking out the vid!
Great video! I've had my SCM slider for two years now, still haven't had time to build a fritz / franz jig.. really ough to do that soon enough. I almost bough myself a Hammer K3, but ended up with an SCM Minimax instead.
@@ramonartful That box storage in the slider is great by the way! I wanted to do it on my Minimax.. But the aluminum frame on the minimax is unfortunately reinforced with an internal aluminum structure.. No way to anything in there. 😔 I'll have to come up with alternative storage ideas.. Considering a custom end cap with a box on the sliding part.
It can be dangerous if a person were to use both fences at the same time. In other words, the edge of the sheet should only contact one fence or the other. In addition, the rip fence should be pulled back. That way, when a panel or section gets cut, it’s free to the right of the blade and won’t get trapped. Hope that helps. Thanks.
@@ramonartful Yes it helps. My dangerous idea was more that you could be easily above the sawblade with your arm when pushing the wood through. Do you also use the K3 with solid wood? I build more smaller furniture like sidetables etc. My current issue is squaring for example the top of a sidetable. On my dewalt that's nasty
Great Video Ramon. Do you have a video of building your out-feed table and rip extension table. By extending the rip table were you able to increase your rip capacity? Did you order a custom fence bar to enable the fence to slide farther out thus increasing the rip capacity? Anywat, big fan of your site!
Hello! Sorry, I don’t have a video on the outfeed table. It’s basically a 4” thick torsion box, made of 3/4” practical board…aka particle board 😬. It’s covered with Formica and works amazingly well. Rip capacity is limited to about 79” (2000mm) if I’m using the slider but with the slider fence removed, I could rip a 16’ board. Initially, I had ordered (Hammer) a short bar for the fence since I don’t have width in my shop (about 18’ wide) but was able to cut (rip) sheets up to 34” (863mm) or just use the slider…so it worked. Now, with the TigerFence, I have 39” (990mm) capacity! Love it! Much thanks.
Hi Ramon, just came across your channel as I've been looking to get a sliding table saw. Thanks so much for taking the time from your busy schedule and sharing your knowledge! I have a quick question. What is the total length and width of your whole setup with both saws and router table? I operate out of a three-car garage, but most (all) of my tools are mobile because my wife does like to park in the garage when she can. So, I'm looking to upgrade, but I really didn't want to get rid of my current Grizzy as it has been such a loyal tool. Thanks again! Peter
Hello Peter! I just measured the total footprint with the slider carriage all the way back. It’s 14’ 6” long x 9’ 6” wide. It’s a bit tight but I seldom cut 4x8 sheets….mostly 5’ x 5’Baltic for my Domino Docks. I have some photos of the layout somewhere. It may be in this video. LMK if you have any questions. Thanks!
It’s an automated system by GrnGate. It’s amazing but I don’t talk much about it because the guys retired a couple years back and are no longer in production. But it sure is awesome to turn on/off any of my machines and the blast gates open/close automagically! 🤪
I have been planning on getting a combination machine at some point and the Hammer or SCM have been the two which I feel like are the most likely candidates. Any reason why you decided not to go that route?
Do you mean, why didn’t I get a combo? If so, it’s because I already have a stand alone shaper. If I were to do it again, I’d probably get a Feldor. However, this is a really good saw! Especially with my TigerFence. I love it. Thanks
@@ramonartful Gotcha, I have noticed one can order the combinations with or without the shaper etc. So I wasn't sure if your setup didn't warrant it or maybe you didn't like the "conversion process" which I assume is the downside of all the combo machines. One last question which I didn't see on the Felder website, what kind of amps is the machine pulling? On a 220 volt circuit will a 25 amp breaker work or more? My Minimax S 45 bandsaw draws around 16 amps at startup and less after etc.
Hello! Yes I make them myself. I can almost guarantee you’ll be surprised with the quality but even more so…how well they work! No jammed pieces in the blade or small cut offs ricocheting across the shop! 😆 They’re quite time consuming…I use Baltic Birch, cover both sides with Formica and I use epoxy to bond it. This makes them very strong and rigid. Anyway…here’s a link. Thanks ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/product/zero-clearance-insert-for-felder-hammer-k-3-winner/
@@jmaluccio Sorry! For some reason, some comments don't make it to my iPhone, only my desktop Mac. My ZCI's are made of Baltic Birch, covered on both sides with Formica that is bonded with epoxy for a ver strong and rigid insert. See more here: ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/product/zero-clearance-insert-for-felder-hammer-k-3-winner/
@@jmaluccio I can verify Ramon's zero clearance throat plates are fantastic. Saved me so much time from making my own and it's so much safer. I have an older K3 and they fit perfectly. I still need to go cut the riving knife slot on mine, but I'm using with a tenryu 10" and they're fantastic. Buy a couple.
Ask a Factory-trained Altendorf or Martin engineer and they will tell you that the rip fence is set too far forwards when you used the Crosscut fence and could be unsafe. I am certain that they know more than a You Tuber
Well, as a guy who has used a sliding table saw for 44 years that is certain of the dynamics going on whilst using these machines…I’ll just mind my own business.
I’ve had good luck with their service. And I know this is an “entry level” slider, but it works well for me and is extremely accurate especially now with my TigerFence! Thanks
@@ramonartful I've heard also many nice opinions about K3 and no doubt this is great product in reasonable money, but nickname suggest it can give some pain in down parts ;)
Service level really depends on country, I've had great luck in my contact with with felder as well regarding hammer machines. They don't sign the format 4 with their felder name either, and that's their high end machines... So don't read into it too much.
I use 15mm Baltic Birch, I cover both sides with plastic laminate and I use epoxy for a strong and rigid bond. Of course, for an outfeed table, particle board or MDF would work well covered with Formica Thanks
Hi, Ramon. I bought an older Rojek PK250A short stroke slider a couple of years ago. It only has a miter fence similar to the K3 Basic, but the miter fence constantly gets knocked out of square due to the way it secures to the sliding table using a pivot point and plastic clamp block. I might order the Hammer miter gauge and fence, since it looks like it might work a little better. Relatedly, do you happen to know the Hammer K3's top t-slot width? No worries if you're too busy to check/reply, and thanks for having one of the more informative woodworking channels. I watch most of your uploads. 🙂
The very top portion of the T slot is 11.2mm or .441” I know this because I’m making a Go-No Go jig for the tail end. 😬 Helps line up boards precisely when ripping. Thanks for the watching the vids!
I do have to tell you….the Hammer Miter gauge and fence aren’t that great. It’s hard to precisely lock in an angle. I use a 92° & an 88° angle repeatably…so I use a template to set the miter fence. It works.
@@ramonartful Thanks for the dimensions and advice! My saw has a ~20mm or 3/4" T slot opening, but I went ahead and ordered the precision miter gauge+fence from Felder. I have a small milling machine, so I will fabricate a T slot bar if needed. I'm sure it will be better than my current miter fence situation. Despite the miter fence issues, I do prefer using my slider with it and a Fritz and Franz jig over a traditional cabinet saw
Thats awesome that you have a milling machine...such a necessary machine! I'm blessed to have both types of saws...but if I had to pick only one...it would definitely be a slider! Thanks @@ShadRich
Another outstanding video, Ramon. I love all of your tips and tricks that are great for new and experienced woodworkers. I love my K3 and would have a hard time going back to a cabinet saw. Thanks for the mention of my Fritz and Franz jig!! Cheers
Thanks a lot! I like sharing what works for me…I get a lot out of your tips as well. We live in an amazing time! It’s like an information revolution! 😆 Cheers
Those threaded inserts for the k3 are fantastic!
Right!? I love mine! Much thanks.
All your knowledge/ideas are awesome...thanks for sharing it!
I appreciate you checking out the channel! 🙏🏼
Love the two tablesaw set up. Great idea.
Thanks a lot. I love it too…works very well. 👊🏼
When using the rip fence with the slider, I just position the fence in front of the blade. Still aligns perfectly, and no chance of pinching. It also gives me better alignment. (You mention that afterwards)
Yep! Thanks a lot!
That's a GREAT looking table saw (make that sawS) setup!!! I've now seen several situations of people even selling their SawStop saws for these sliders. I really don't think you can beat the European design, the Hammer saws are well made and, based on personal experience, although the SawStop sliding compound attachment is okay it still really doesn't compare to the traditional design. I work at a local Woodcraft part-time and I've had a chance to compare a lot of different saws on the market.
Thanks a lot! Although it is an entry level slider, it’s far superior in terms of versatility over a cabinet saw, even SawStop with its sliding thing 😆…as you mentioned. I love it …but would like to move up to a Feldor , maybe at some point.
“Don’t know if I added that magnet or not” 🤣🤣🤣
I can relate to that!
Right!? I don’t remember adding that but I’m sure that I did. There’s no reason for the wrench to be magnetic! 🤷🏼♂️🤪 Much thanks for checking out the vid!
Great video! I've had my SCM slider for two years now, still haven't had time to build a fritz / franz jig.. really ough to do that soon enough.
I almost bough myself a Hammer K3, but ended up with an SCM Minimax instead.
Nice! I’ve heard good things about your saw.
@@ramonartful That box storage in the slider is great by the way!
I wanted to do it on my Minimax.. But the aluminum frame on the minimax is unfortunately reinforced with an internal aluminum structure.. No way to anything in there. 😔
I'll have to come up with alternative storage ideas.. Considering a custom end cap with a box on the sliding part.
Great video. Thanks. Just wandering, how save is cross cutting with the rip fence? It feels a bit dangerous due to the width of the sliding table
It can be dangerous if a person were to use both fences at the same time. In other words, the edge of the sheet should only contact one fence or the other. In addition, the rip fence should be pulled back. That way, when a panel or section gets cut, it’s free to the right of the blade and won’t get trapped. Hope that helps. Thanks.
@@ramonartful Yes it helps. My dangerous idea was more that you could be easily above the sawblade with your arm when pushing the wood through.
Do you also use the K3 with solid wood? I build more smaller furniture like sidetables etc. My current issue is squaring for example the top of a sidetable. On my dewalt that's nasty
@@twandieltjes1359 yes…a slider is excellent for cutting wooden components for furniture. Extremely versatile!
Great Video Ramon. Do you have a video of building your out-feed table and rip extension table. By extending the rip table were you able to increase your rip capacity? Did you order a custom fence bar to enable the fence to slide farther out thus increasing the rip capacity? Anywat, big fan of your site!
Hello! Sorry, I don’t have a video on the outfeed table. It’s basically a 4” thick torsion box, made of 3/4” practical board…aka particle board 😬. It’s covered with Formica and works amazingly well.
Rip capacity is limited to about 79” (2000mm) if I’m using the slider but with the slider fence removed, I could rip a 16’ board. Initially, I had ordered (Hammer) a short bar for the fence since I don’t have width in my shop (about 18’ wide) but was able to cut (rip) sheets up to 34” (863mm) or just use the slider…so it worked. Now, with the TigerFence, I have 39” (990mm) capacity! Love it! Much thanks.
@@ramonartful Thanks Ramon
Hi Ramon, just came across your channel as I've been looking to get a sliding table saw. Thanks so much for taking the time from your busy schedule and sharing your knowledge! I have a quick question. What is the total length and width of your whole setup with both saws and router table? I operate out of a three-car garage, but most (all) of my tools are mobile because my wife does like to park in the garage when she can. So, I'm looking to upgrade, but I really didn't want to get rid of my current Grizzy as it has been such a loyal tool. Thanks again! Peter
Hello Peter!
I just measured the total footprint with the slider carriage all the way back. It’s 14’ 6” long x 9’ 6” wide. It’s a bit tight but I seldom cut 4x8 sheets….mostly 5’ x 5’Baltic for my Domino Docks. I have some photos of the layout somewhere. It may be in this video. LMK if you have any questions. Thanks!
This may show an overview of the two saws.
Shop Tour 2
ua-cam.com/video/FCcBjeItJvs/v-deo.html
Yeah man. Great video.
Thank you…I appreciate it 🙏🏼
What are the 2 yellow things on the K3's dust extraction port?
It’s an automated system by GrnGate. It’s amazing but I don’t talk much about it because the guys retired a couple years back and are no longer in production. But it sure is awesome to turn on/off any of my machines and the blast gates open/close automagically! 🤪
I have been planning on getting a combination machine at some point and the Hammer or SCM have been the two which I feel like are the most likely candidates. Any reason why you decided not to go that route?
Do you mean, why didn’t I get a combo? If so, it’s because I already have a stand alone shaper. If I were to do it again, I’d probably get a Feldor. However, this is a really good saw! Especially with my TigerFence. I love it. Thanks
@@ramonartful Gotcha, I have noticed one can order the combinations with or without the shaper etc. So I wasn't sure if your setup didn't warrant it or maybe you didn't like the "conversion process" which I assume is the downside of all the combo machines. One last question which I didn't see on the Felder website, what kind of amps is the machine pulling? On a 220 volt circuit will a 25 amp breaker work or more? My Minimax S 45 bandsaw draws around 16 amps at startup and less after etc.
@@speciesofspaces I believe that it requires a 25 amp breaker.
Hi do you sell the zero clearance plate for the blade and do you make them yourself
Hello! Yes I make them myself. I can almost guarantee you’ll be surprised with the quality but even more so…how well they work! No jammed pieces in the blade or small cut offs ricocheting across the shop! 😆 They’re quite time consuming…I use Baltic Birch, cover both sides with Formica and I use epoxy to bond it. This makes them very strong and rigid. Anyway…here’s a link. Thanks
ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/product/zero-clearance-insert-for-felder-hammer-k-3-winner/
@@ramonartful thanks for getting back to me can you tell me what is the zci
@@jmaluccio Sorry! For some reason, some comments don't make it to my iPhone, only my desktop Mac.
My ZCI's are made of Baltic Birch, covered on both sides with Formica that is bonded with epoxy for a ver strong and rigid insert. See more here: ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/product/zero-clearance-insert-for-felder-hammer-k-3-winner/
@@ramonartful thanks I’ll be ordering one soon
@@jmaluccio I can verify Ramon's zero clearance throat plates are fantastic. Saved me so much time from making my own and it's so much safer. I have an older K3 and they fit perfectly. I still need to go cut the riving knife slot on mine, but I'm using with a tenryu 10" and they're fantastic. Buy a couple.
I already want a slider and this didn't help at all. Cheer mate
Ha ha…yeah, I couldn’t imagine my shop without a slider. Just get one already…life is short! 🤪
@@ramonartful We're moving soon. Probably will sell the cabinet saw I've got when we do.. Just gotta get the better half on board
👍
👊🏼😬🙏🏼
Ask a Factory-trained Altendorf or Martin engineer and they will tell you that the rip fence is set too far forwards when you used the Crosscut fence and could be unsafe. I am certain that they know more than a You Tuber
Well, as a guy who has used a sliding table saw for 44 years that is certain of the dynamics going on whilst using these machines…I’ll just mind my own business.
In Poland hammer is often called hemorrhoid cuz lack of service quality and Felder avoid sign this product line with their main name.
I’ve had good luck with their service. And I know this is an “entry level” slider, but it works well for me and is extremely accurate especially now with my TigerFence! Thanks
@@ramonartful I've heard also many nice opinions about K3 and no doubt this is great product in reasonable money, but nickname suggest it can give some pain in down parts ;)
Service level really depends on country, I've had great luck in my contact with with felder as well regarding hammer machines. They don't sign the format 4 with their felder name either, and that's their high end machines... So don't read into it too much.
Great video on slider tips! I love my K3 winner.
Great to hear! Do you use a zero clearance insert? Huge difference and no more small pieces getting caught in the blade! Much thanks.
@@ramonartful I use a zero clearance insert I bought from this guy, Ramon Valdez...
awesome...
Thank you 🙏🏼
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I've learned a lot
Great to hear! Thanks for watching
I keep asking Santa for a slider. I might have to buy it myself. Great info as usual.
I got tired of waiting for Santa 😬 I’d rather have a Felder but this saw has been really good! Thanks
Last week, I took a tour of the Felder factory in Hall in Tirol. One interesting thing I learned: you can get your machine painted in custom colors!
Ha…that’d be cool! I wonder if they’d like my custom Hammer colored outfeed table!? 😬
Great video, once again. Working on my F&F jig, so this is timely.
Gotta love that little slider drawer, it's genius ...
Thanks a lot. Small shops (and I suppose big shops!) need all the storage they can get! Yeah…David’s F & F design is the best I’ve ever seen!
Great video. Where do you get the material for the 0 clearance inserts? I would like to make an outfeed table using it. Thanks.
I use 15mm Baltic Birch, I cover both sides with plastic laminate and I use epoxy for a strong and rigid bond. Of course, for an outfeed table, particle board or MDF would work well covered with Formica Thanks
@@ramonartful Thanks Ramon.
Hi, Ramon. I bought an older Rojek PK250A short stroke slider a couple of years ago. It only has a miter fence similar to the K3 Basic, but the miter fence constantly gets knocked out of square due to the way it secures to the sliding table using a pivot point and plastic clamp block.
I might order the Hammer miter gauge and fence, since it looks like it might work a little better.
Relatedly, do you happen to know the Hammer K3's top t-slot width?
No worries if you're too busy to check/reply, and thanks for having one of the more informative woodworking channels. I watch most of your uploads. 🙂
The very top portion of the T slot is 11.2mm or .441”
I know this because I’m making a Go-No Go jig for the tail end. 😬 Helps line up boards precisely when ripping.
Thanks for the watching the vids!
I do have to tell you….the Hammer Miter gauge and fence aren’t that great. It’s hard to precisely lock in an angle. I use a 92° & an 88° angle repeatably…so I use a template to set the miter fence. It works.
@@ramonartful Thanks for the dimensions and advice! My saw has a ~20mm or 3/4" T slot opening, but I went ahead and ordered the precision miter gauge+fence from Felder. I have a small milling machine, so I will fabricate a T slot bar if needed. I'm sure it will be better than my current miter fence situation. Despite the miter fence issues, I do prefer using my slider with it and a Fritz and Franz jig over a traditional cabinet saw
Thats awesome that you have a milling machine...such a necessary machine!
I'm blessed to have both types of saws...but if I had to pick only one...it would definitely be a slider! Thanks @@ShadRich
Love these videos
Thank you! That’s great to hear