Hello Mike. When I first had the thought of turning jar lids, your channel (which is usually my first to search) delivered as always. Thank you for this take along tutorial and for giving me the confidence to try new projects. Happy holidays.
OK, now I finally have a use for all those jars I have saving because I knew I would need them someday:) Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy your videos.
I've been waiting for you to do this video, Mike. I think the suggestion was made quite a few months ago and I voted in favor and what do you know, you did it! Great job, easy to understand and I will make one for sanding sealer. Thanks, Mike!
Yes it has been on my list a while and I had everthing ready in a box, but other things just kept popping up. All promising ideas go into my ideas spreadsheet.
Hi Mike - good tips! You are always informative. Question please? I saw your video making sanding paste and enjoyed. Is there an option of how to make Sanding Sealer at home, I find the pricing very high for my limited budget. Thanks Dennis
Shellac is probably the cheapest option. Not that expensive in the quart can. You can buy shellac crystals and mix with alcohol but do not think you will save money. You might ask about sanding sealer options at your local paint store.
@@paulmelanson1527 You mark a circle and compare that to the tenon size needed for your normal jaws. If they match great. If not are they close enough to mark it and make it slightly smaller or larger. Perhaps you glue a popsicle stick to a pencil to make the circle larger. I think you get the idea.
One thing I would do differently is to run the screw to attach the wooden brush thru the top of the lid and into the recess for the handle. The exposed sharp tip will make it easier to screw the brush on the threads and eliminates cutting the screw. Finally glue the handle in place to cover up the screw head. You should use an appropriate length screw, of course. I'm going to make a few of these...as soon as I finish the baby food. ;-) Quite a handy idea Mike. Thanks for posting.
You may be on to something, Gil. Putting in the screw from the top while it is on the chuck certainly makes it easier to use a rotary tool to cut off the head. I agree that it would be easier to screw the brush onto the pointed end of the screw. My only concern would be if threading the handle onto the cut off end of the screw would cause the screw to spin in the lid instead of staying in place. Worth a try for the first one. Thanks for sharing.
I guess I left out the part about a counter sink in the screw hole. The head would stay but a counter sink lets the screw fit flush in the recess so the handle can fit flush in the recess covering the head. No need to cut off the head so a tight fitting screw is assured.
Mike, I wonder if by using the brush to apply finish, if you capture wood dust and other particles on the brush. I wonder if that carries particles back into the remaining finish inside the jar, and in time causes a rough finish that you have to sand off? I thought about this several years ago, and switched to polyethylene squeeze bottles and blue shop towels to apply finish to my turnings. Just curious about your experience.
Valid concern, but actually I don't think there is any reason you couldn't use these jars to apply a finish that soaks into the surface, and that you then wipe off (such as the various Danish oils.) These are simply storage containers with an integral brush - the finish you choose to use, and how you apply that finish are really not relevant. You could also use this approach to make a glue pot with an integral brush. A few years ago I bought some plastic glue bottles at Marine Specialties, the famous surplus store in Provincetown, MA, and as Mike notes, eventually the threads will get gunked up. Since these are made by recycling food containers that otherwise would be thrown away, together with cheap brushes, there's no reason to expect them to last forever. The only real downside is that the jars are glass, and in my shop, the floor is concrete. Glass and concrete don't play well together.
You are probably right. While it was more efficient doing both at the same time on some steps, I should have edited the final results to separate them. I apprciate your feedback.
Hello Mike. When I first had the thought of turning jar lids, your channel (which is usually my first to search) delivered as always. Thank you for this take along tutorial and for giving me the confidence to try new projects. Happy holidays.
Wow, thank you!
OK, now I finally have a use for all those jars I have saving because I knew
I would need them someday:) Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy your videos.
Nice one
I like your design. I will make soon of these. Thanks
Definitely a nicer look in a woodsmith's shop. I like it. Well done.
I've been waiting for you to do this video, Mike. I think the suggestion was made quite a few months ago and I voted in favor and what do you know, you did it! Great job, easy to understand and I will make one for sanding sealer. Thanks, Mike!
Yes it has been on my list a while and I had everthing ready in a box, but other things just kept popping up. All promising ideas go into my ideas spreadsheet.
i might have to do this i use jars all the time for solvents . not sure how well it would work for that but its a great idea . thanks mike
Really useful project. Using the cap of the jar as a core gave me a few ideas! thanks for sharing that
Very useful idea, thanks for sharing.
great video mike,,i gotta make me some,,
That’s a very interesting project. Once I get more comfortable using my new lathe I may try to make one. Thanks for sharing.
If you are more into functional turning than art, I think you will like it. Safe turning.
Hi Mike - good tips! You are always informative.
Question please? I saw your video making sanding paste and enjoyed. Is there an option of how to make Sanding Sealer at home, I find the pricing very high for my limited budget.
Thanks Dennis
Shellac is probably the cheapest option. Not that expensive in the quart can. You can buy shellac crystals and mix with alcohol but do not think you will save money. You might ask about sanding sealer options at your local paint store.
Very good idea sir 👍🏼
Hi great video. Which of your video covers the pencil you just mark the jaw size on the plank
Sorry, but I do not understand your question.
In this video, you placed a pencil on the tail stock in order to mark the size of the tennon. How does that work
@@paulmelanson1527 You mark a circle and compare that to the tenon size needed for your normal jaws. If they match great. If not are they close enough to mark it and make it slightly smaller or larger. Perhaps you glue a popsicle stick to a pencil to make the circle larger. I think you get the idea.
Pretty neat!
One thing I would do differently is to run the screw to attach the wooden brush thru the top of the lid and into the recess for the handle. The exposed sharp tip will make it easier to screw the brush on the threads and eliminates cutting the screw. Finally glue the handle in place to cover up the screw head. You should use an appropriate length screw, of course. I'm going to make a few of these...as soon as I finish the baby food. ;-) Quite a handy idea Mike. Thanks for posting.
You may be on to something, Gil. Putting in the screw from the top while it is on the chuck certainly makes it easier to use a rotary tool to cut off the head. I agree that it would be easier to screw the brush onto the pointed end of the screw. My only concern would be if threading the handle onto the cut off end of the screw would cause the screw to spin in the lid instead of staying in place. Worth a try for the first one. Thanks for sharing.
I guess I left out the part about a counter sink in the screw hole. The head would stay but a counter sink lets the screw fit flush in the recess so the handle can fit flush in the recess covering the head. No need to cut off the head so a tight fitting screw is assured.
Mike, I wonder if by using the brush to apply finish, if you capture wood dust and other particles on the brush. I wonder if that carries particles back into the remaining finish inside the jar, and in time causes a rough finish that you have to sand off? I thought about this several years ago, and switched to polyethylene squeeze bottles and blue shop towels to apply finish to my turnings. Just curious about your experience.
Not a problem for me. You do need to wipe off the piece or blow if off with compressed air first.
Valid concern, but actually I don't think there is any reason you couldn't use these jars to apply a finish that soaks into the surface, and that you then wipe off (such as the various Danish oils.) These are simply storage containers with an integral brush - the finish you choose to use, and how you apply that finish are really not relevant.
You could also use this approach to make a glue pot with an integral brush. A few years ago I bought some plastic glue bottles at Marine Specialties, the famous surplus store in Provincetown, MA, and as Mike notes, eventually the threads will get gunked up. Since these are made by recycling food containers that otherwise would be thrown away, together with cheap brushes, there's no reason to expect them to last forever.
The only real downside is that the jars are glass, and in my shop, the floor is concrete. Glass and concrete don't play well together.
And i still have all my fingers 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Me too!. I inventory them before leaving the shop.
Good Video, but it would better if you finished one then did another. Or two separate videos.
You are probably right. While it was more efficient doing both at the same time on some steps, I should have edited the final results to separate them. I apprciate your feedback.
The double screen overlaps the other, Mike. I found that very distracting
I appreciate the feedback