Hey Bob, I have a quick question bout the 192k. I have serviced mine and it runs perfect. I love the sound of it. But I tried to put some thick thread into it. like tex 80 in the bobbin and tex 90 on the spool. I'm having lower bobbin tension issues now.. top stitch looks great, but the bottom looks loose and not as tight as I would like. Any tips how to adjust that to handle these threads?
That's a bit heavy for a 66 class machine. I try not to go heavier than a Tex 70 bonded. The 66 class bobbin case isn't as forgiving as a 15 class for thread weight.
Can a modern 99K light be mounted to it with the threaded bulb? Or can/ dies it need the older style one? Has it been drilled and tapped for a light? Were any 99s made with reverse or just these and the 185s?
I wish the Soartan came in a crinkle finish? If there were any 99s with that simpler bobbin winder, reverse, crinkle finish, and beefier Soartan motor I would want that 99.
There are modern lamps that will work beyond the old bug eye, as well as earlier lamps. As for reverse, later 99's had a backtack stitch. It wasn't a true reverse with fully proportional stitch length, but like later 66's, they had a fixed length backpack feature to lock in stitches.
I am loving your video. I have a 1959 Spartan that was given to me. It is dirty and needs a deep clean. When you clean your parts, what do you use? Also this is really good help because the hook race etc is very bad and gummed up with something. I will have to learn about this particular motor because it smells bad when run for a short bit. I am surprised that the hand wheel spins not too bad.
Greasy parts that come off the machine go to the sink where they are cleaned with HOT water and Dawn dish detergent. If the crud is particularly egregious, the part might go first to the garage to be wire wheeled to remove the nasty stuff. The wire wheel doesn't get used on polished parts, only on things like rock shafts and connecting rods. After degreasing, the parts are rinsed in hot water and taken to the air compressor where they are blown dry. Don't let them drip dry by the sink as they can (and will) flash rust.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop thank you so much for replying to my message. You should have seen the mess of this machine that was given to me. I do not think it was cleaned since the day it was bought! When I took the faceplate off it was so full of lint, dust and had shellacked all golden and there was like a tarry gummed up mess in there. The bottom hook was just as scary and the lint in there was almost rock hard. I might break her down even more because of how bad this machine is. The motor works but definitely needs work. Black dusty linty in there. I want to thank you for posting these videos because I live way too far away from any place to get this serviced. I think I would have a heart attack with just the postage on this machine hahahaha.
@@TiralynnEruanna I feel your pain! I've had machines where mice have made homes (and died) and it's always a challenge cleaning out tons of lint that has turned to stone. Worse of all is what I call "crud welding" - that's where old oil and grease are mixed with lint to form a concrete-like mass that's not only tough to get out, but will lock up the mechanism as well...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop dead mice! Eeeeewwww. Almost every part has been a challenge to remove because of the “welding”. Now it is the pin that holds the pressure foot lever that does not want to come out oh such fun!
Hi Bob - love the video tutorials. Just a question about the screws that are opposite to tighten and loosen - I have a Singer 103k with a stuck needle bar and there is a similar screw - is that a left tighten and right loosen as well? Thanks
Hi Mira, If the slot on the head of the screw doesn't go completely from side to side, it's a good indication it's a left handed thread instead of a "normal" right handed thread.
Enjoy your tutorials, but concerns me to see that this lovely machine is being bummed around on the wood table. Can’t ya put down a bummer pads? If were my baby I’d be sad. No offense please, just my concerns. Ty
Hi Barbara - I've watched lots of Bob's vids and so I know that board he's working on is made of wood but is "soft" - much softer than the machines. He explained in another video (I can't remember which one) that he uses that softer board on purpose so that it won't damage the machines.
Yeah, I get messaged about that from time to tome. Know though that the bench top is a paper product called medium density fiberboard and it gets beat up without hurting the machines. I recently made a new work surface that will be easier to keep clean, and affords some extra padding.
Good gosh golly, you know your stuff. Staggering.
Neat little machine. Thank you for sharing all this.
Oh my goodness Ratfink! I would draw that when I was young.
yup, that one and who was the guy in Mad magazine? Don Handley?
Thank you! So well demonstrated. I’m watching as much as I can to learn and understand before I tackle my treasured beauties.
Glad it was helpful!
Such good explanations. I do not know what it is but I just understand it the way you explained the workings of the machines. Another awesome video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great detail and explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Bob, I have a quick question bout the 192k. I have serviced mine and it runs perfect. I love the sound of it. But I tried to put some thick thread into it. like tex 80 in the bobbin and tex 90 on the spool. I'm having lower bobbin tension issues now.. top stitch looks great, but the bottom looks loose and not as tight as I would like.
Any tips how to adjust that to handle these threads?
That's a bit heavy for a 66 class machine. I try not to go heavier than a Tex 70 bonded. The 66 class bobbin case isn't as forgiving as a 15 class for thread weight.
@@BobFowlerWorkshopthank you! wow, if it takes a tex 70 I'm in heaven.
Can a modern 99K light be mounted to it with the threaded bulb? Or can/ dies it need the older style one? Has it been drilled and tapped for a light? Were any 99s made with reverse or just these and the 185s?
I wish the Soartan came in a crinkle finish? If there were any 99s with that simpler bobbin winder, reverse, crinkle finish, and beefier Soartan motor I would want that 99.
There are modern lamps that will work beyond the old bug eye, as well as earlier lamps. As for reverse, later 99's had a backtack stitch. It wasn't a true reverse with fully proportional stitch length, but like later 66's, they had a fixed length backpack feature to lock in stitches.
I am loving your video. I have a 1959 Spartan that was given to me. It is dirty and needs a deep clean. When you clean your parts, what do you use? Also this is really good help because the hook race etc is very bad and gummed up with something. I will have to learn about this particular motor because it smells bad when run for a short bit. I am surprised that the hand wheel spins not too bad.
Greasy parts that come off the machine go to the sink where they are cleaned with HOT water and Dawn dish detergent. If the crud is particularly egregious, the part might go first to the garage to be wire wheeled to remove the nasty stuff. The wire wheel doesn't get used on polished parts, only on things like rock shafts and connecting rods. After degreasing, the parts are rinsed in hot water and taken to the air compressor where they are blown dry. Don't let them drip dry by the sink as they can (and will) flash rust.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop thank you so much for replying to my message. You should have seen the mess of this machine that was given to me. I do not think it was cleaned since the day it was bought! When I took the faceplate off it was so full of lint, dust and had shellacked all golden and there was like a tarry gummed up mess in there. The bottom hook was just as scary and the lint in there was almost rock hard. I might break her down even more because of how bad this machine is. The motor works but definitely needs work. Black dusty linty in there. I want to thank you for posting these videos because I live way too far away from any place to get this serviced. I think I would have a heart attack with just the postage on this machine hahahaha.
@@TiralynnEruanna I feel your pain! I've had machines where mice have made homes (and died) and it's always a challenge cleaning out tons of lint that has turned to stone. Worse of all is what I call "crud welding" - that's where old oil and grease are mixed with lint to form a concrete-like mass that's not only tough to get out, but will lock up the mechanism as well...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop dead mice! Eeeeewwww. Almost every part has been a challenge to remove because of the “welding”. Now it is the pin that holds the pressure foot lever that does not want to come out oh such fun!
@@TiralynnEruanna Look for my video "Of Of Mice And... Sergers?"... no carcasses, just nest in a Singer 246... ua-cam.com/video/pqndd7KqeS0/v-deo.html
Hi Bob - love the video tutorials. Just a question about the screws that are opposite to tighten and loosen - I have a Singer 103k with a stuck needle bar and there is a similar screw - is that a left tighten and right loosen as well? Thanks
Hi Mira,
If the slot on the head of the screw doesn't go completely from side to side, it's a good indication it's a left handed thread instead of a "normal" right handed thread.
Enjoy your tutorials, but concerns me to see that this lovely machine is being bummed around on the wood table. Can’t ya put down a bummer pads? If were my baby I’d be sad. No offense please, just my concerns. Ty
Hi Barbara - I've watched lots of Bob's vids and so I know that board he's working on is made of wood but is "soft" - much softer than the machines. He explained in another video (I can't remember which one) that he uses that softer board on purpose so that it won't damage the machines.
Yeah, I get messaged about that from time to tome. Know though that the bench top is a paper product called medium density fiberboard and it gets beat up without hurting the machines. I recently made a new work surface that will be easier to keep clean, and affords some extra padding.