Rider weight and the torque or power output have a big affect on wear rate. A rider weighing 220 lbs and putting out 400 watts average will wear tires much faster than a 130 lbs rider putting out 200 watts average. Also. the front tire will wear out at about 1/3 to 1/4 the rate of the rear tire. I generally rotate the front to the rear when my rear tire wears out and put a new tire on the front. Having the newest, best tire in front is important because a tire failure in front is much more dangerous than one in the rear.
Well said and thanks for the comment. I also rotate tires front to back and put a new one on the front. Do you keep the same clincher tubes (if you are running clinchers) or replace them when you replace the tire?
@@tony10speed Forgot to say great video. These are so helpful, especially for new riders and it is so nice for people like yourself to take the time to create these videos. One day I will take the time to do some as well. As far as tubes go, I generally keep the same tubes when I replace tires. They are not really exposed to sunlight and the elements the way tire rubber is so they generally last for a while. The one area where they can fail from wear is at the valve/tube bond. I've seen cracks develop around this area after the tube starts to get old. I think the pressure in the tube puts stress in this area as it presses against the edges of the valve hole in the rim. I usually cut a small piece of old inner tube, about an inch in diameter and punch a hole in the center of it. Then slip this over the valve stem so it provide some protection and support at the valve hole. Since I generally get flats in the rear only, I will patch a tube 2xs before I call it quits and replace the tube. Again, I will take the front tube and move to the back and then put new tube in the front tire. I almost never get flats in the front so a tube could end up being in there 5 years or more if I don't swap it out. I do run tubeless on my mountain and gravel bikes but for road, I think tubeless does not make much sense. The tire pressures are just too high so most of the air and sealant will spray out before the hole can seal, if it ever does seal. Also,The major benefit to tubeless is that it allows you to run lower pressures without worry of pinch flatting. But on road this is not an issue because pinch flats are much less common and you don't really need the lower tire pressures that help with extra grip need for off road.
@@robertpreato3891 I agree and you're right on the money. I use a small rubber gasket (between the valve locknut and the rim) from a rubber gasket kit (includes different sizes) I purchased off Amazon (TWCC 770 Pcs Rubber O Rings Kit 18 Size Universal Nitrile NBR Washer Gasket Assortment Set). It is suggested to use a small gasket on tubeless. The gasket holds up very well but the square of old tire trick will do as you describe. The gasket kit is also handy when repairing pump/chuck, over hauling suspension forks and seat post, and household/hose repairs. One note: When tighten the locknut on the valve over the gasket, hand tighten so it's not loose but do NOT tighten too firmly. Tightening down the locknut firmly may put too much undo pressure on the valve where it enters the tube putting undo stress on the tube around the valve. Cheers and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Yep, you are 100% correct, the o rings work great too. I have a similar kit that I got from Harbor Freight, the really small ones have come in handy replacing the o rings in CO2 inflator chucks. But since old tubes are otherwise thrown away, I like to use those for the tube protector at the valve stem. I also use pieces of old tube to make my own patches. Works better than the patch kits and cost is zero because the tube would have been thrown away.
Tony, I want to send this video to people, but I would like to add the very common case of cracking on the sides due to tire drying and riding with low pressure, hence deformation. And the second common case is wear or even cutting of structural threads due to breaking pads touching it. This is sadly very common among people that would be more inclined to use the bike for commuting more often if not for constant mechanical problems that they have no idea how to prevent or spot.
Your points are very important. I will "pin" this comment so visitors and subscribers will see and note these. Thank you for your input. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I’ve been cycling for years but never noticed wear indicators. After your video, checked my gp5000s and there they were all this time. No more tire replacements by „feel“Thanks for the video !
I find the wear indicator handy and important - but on some tires I notice significant wear and begin to see repeated flats before the tire wear indicators are gone. So when you check tires as in the video, don't neglect looking for other signs of wear besides the wear indicators. If the wear indicators are gone - definitely replace the tire. Regards, Tony
You're Welcome. Unfortunately, not all tires have them. Also visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice video as always, Tony! I As you'll know, the rear almost always wears quicker, and you should favour maintaining the condition of the front tire, if pushed to favour one over the other, due to it's use in steering
Very true. The front is also your most important tire when braking (an upcoming video). The rear wears faster then the front as you mentioned. We will address the idea of rotating tires with wear ( a no no), moving the front to the rear and replacing the front with a new one as the tires wear, and other facts and fallacies in an upcoming video. Thanks for you comment. Regards, Tony
Thanks! Was just wondering if I should replaced my conti tyre. Will use it for a while more given that the tread wear indicator is still visible for the time being. But will top up the sealant instead. Chances of puncture generally higher around this time.
I run Conti tyres also. The tread indicators are pretty good, but I put in 5000 miles a year on my road bike and replace then yearly anyway. I put in only a few thousand miles on my mountain bike and replace them depending on the tire wear indicators, tread wear and I look for wear at the side walls and wear the bead meets the rim. A lot depends on the miles you do and the conditions you ride in. Top of the tires as you are doing and watch the wear carefully. Regards, Tony
Remember, a lot depends on the type of tire you use and the road surfaces you ride as to how long the tire will last before you begin to experience repeated flats. Regards, Tony
Hi there. Thanks for sharing. I have a question. If I had the money to change one only and using a less weary tire. Which one do you recommend me to change first? The front or the rear one? Thanks in advance
I'd put your best tire on the front. The front is where most of your braking power lies. See: ua-cam.com/video/uux3hTMPjog/v-deo.html You also want to prevent a front tire blow out where you might lose control of the bike. Less likely to happen with a rear blow out. Regards, Tony
I have botranger racing tires. I use my bike to commute. I've put on 5000 miles the last year. I've had 1 thorn flat and 2 pinch flats(including one this morning). Based on this information alone, without inspection, would you recommend replacement?
Depends on the quality of the tire and your own experience. I know, with the Continental Gatorskins I use, the rear tire usually show wear at around 3000-3500 miles so that's when I usually remove it, discard the tire, put the front on the back and replace the front tire. See "Tire Rotation": ua-cam.com/video/A1jaDExwgGc/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchandTonyMarchand Some tires may last longer or shorter, again based on quality. For my riding partner who uses Endurance tires, I change the tires once each year (at around 4000 miles). She wants both replaced at the same time which is her choice. I don't use the Endurance because they're more difficult to install. As to your pinch flats, if you hit a deep enough pot hole at speed it's bound to happen. Or if your tire pressure is low you'll see pinch flats. Butyl tubes loose about 1 psi each day, so it's worth pumping the tires to the proper psi once a week.
So it's hard for me to say. Personally, when I was commuting to work by bike, I put on new tires at least yearly (mainly because I wanted to give myself the best chance of getting to work on time). I still got an occasional flat, but psychologically I felt better. Regards, Tony
I just bought a 26 year old Raleigh 10 speed Road bicycle. It’s been stored inside a garage since brand new and has never been taken out and riden!! It’s a time capsule. As new condition just some dust. My question, since the narrow tires on this bike appear as new, would there be any need to replace them just due to age? Thanks in advance
If they look good and the rubber and bead show no cracking, they're probably fine. I have tires stored in our basement which is cool all year round and have a dehumidifier to keep the moisture down. Keeping them out of the heat or extreme cold and at a decent humidity seems to be the key. Here is everything you want to know about bicycle tire "dry rot": www.fixyourdirtbike.com/tips/how/why-do-tires-dry-rot/ Regards, Tony
The GP5000 tires dont last very long, you might get 1200 miles out of a back tire, they are excellent tires by all means, but the tpi is like 338, compared to the gaterskins 160 tpi. The more tpi, the less protection, but also the more conforming those tires are as well. And the more tpi, the faster you'll wear your tire down. But you'll ride alot faster.
Decreased longevity and side wall damage of the GP5000 is echoed by many other cyclist. My question for you is does the GP5000 really make you faster (or is that psychological)? Is it worth the shorter tire life span and are there other ways to make you more comfortable on your bike (such as going tubeless)? Here's a nice review of the GP5000 and TPI: www.cyclingnews.com/features/what-is-tpi-in-bike-tyres/ What do you think? Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed the math proves it does, less rolling resistants, better grip on turns, due to the composition of rubber material. Also tpi has alot to do with it as well, as less tpi is less conforming, which if you're on the road, you have to slow down more into a turn, then you would with a tire that has more tpi, in turn, gives you more load on the face of the tire head. The gp5000 is taking more of a beating then say a gaterskin or ultrarace 3, because it is thinner, basically a piece of cloth with around an 8th of rubber thickness, i think it might be a bit more, but not much more, because they are high end racing tires. Continental has a few videos where the gp5000 line is a faster tire for racing. Ive gained a few seconds on runs where i had to slow down more with other tires, then i would have with the gp5000. Are the tires good for all terrains? No, each tire line is built for different surfaces. You wouldn't take a go5000 on a dirt trail, nor would you take a gaterskin to a wooden track. Not saying it cant be done, but the tire has less give than a racing tire. And from what ive seen with sidewall damage of the gp5000, people dont add the correct psi to their body weight. A 200+ lbs person needs alot more than 75psi on the back tire, and a 90lb person wouldnt need 110psi on the back tire. Now thats not to say they didnt get a defective tire, every brand has them on every line in cycling. Ive seen $4000 carbon rims explode, as ive also seen $100 dollar aluminum rims take KOMs on strava. Sometimes you just get a bad tire, like you have stated, its gonna happen. But mostly, in my experience with bikes, its operator error. Now as for comfort, i dont find low tpi tires comfortable, thats just me, i like a tire that has a sticky tread. I do on average 5 to 600 miles a week, so around 24 to 29,000 miles a year, sometimes more if I'm doing a few ultra marathons that year. Ill use a tire that has a little more life to it then a gp5000. Not all roads are created equal, which im sure you have ran into some pretty poor roads. Thank you taxes. But it depends on what im doing, and how long ill ride, if i pick a tire with more tpi or less. If its smooth roads, and not alot of stops, gp5000 all day, a road ive never been down before, ill choose something with a little more protection. Its also a good thing to note as well, they make tire puncture strips, light weight, and pretty damn tough. And they tuck perfectly in the inside of any tire.
I wish there was. Buying tires from a reputable dealer with enough customers to keep the stock turning over rapidly is what I suggest. Some on-line dealers have a good reputation such as BikeTireDirect.com. Regards, Tony
A lot depends on the size of the cut. If very small, remove the tire and take a close look. Make sure no threads can be seen from the outside. If there's a small cut, make sure it has not penetrated through to the inside. You can probably still use it, but keep a close eye on the tire, checking it every-time you pump the tire up or do weekly maintenance. Some have used super glue to seal small cuts (note: I have not used this method personally and can not guarantee how well it works or how long it lasts): ua-cam.com/video/h5m7lALptqI/v-deo.html&ab_channel=simplyPlugIn
Even for new tires I’m getting threads on the tires like 1:17 is this normal ? Have been trying different tires but that problem doesn’t seem to go away
The tire you can use will depend on the internal width of the wheels rim. Too small or too big may result in the tire popping out while riding which is a BIG DANGER. There are some on-line suggestions but, to play it safe, check the manufacturer's rim specifications on-line or check with your local bike store for the tires sizes you can use. Regards, Tony
Hi Tony . I notice wear on my tires right in the middle as I use them on a bike trainer as well. Any suggestions on using tires on a bike trainer? Thanks
Save your old worn road tires to use on a trainer. I have an extra rear wheel with a moderately worn tire that I place on the bike before putting it on the trainer. Though the tire is worn with less rubber between the surface and the treads, on a trainer you're unlikely to have a flat. You can continue to use that specific tire on the trainer much much longer then you could out on the road. When I can see tread or get leaks around the valve, I throw it away and use another old tire I've saved Regards, Tony.
@@tony10speed Thanks for the tip. I also noticed you mentioned you use gator skin tires. Do they result in significant power loss while cycling long distance compared to the regular factory tires? I have read in some discussion boards that the gator skins are not efficient but offer better protection again flats.
@@eechaze12 If you are a pro or amateur racer, you may consider other tires. For me, they offer better flat protection on long rides (the correct pressure is essential - not the max nor less then the minimum - but that's for another video). Minimal watt gains and grams in weight savings for most of use who are not racers are much hyped up. The conditioning, weight and strength of the rider are far more important. But that's my personal opinion. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Yes. Some tires, such as those used for triathlons and time trials, tend to be light and thin for speed. Others like Continental Gatorskin and Hutchinson Intensive 2 Road tend to add Kevlar (and weight) but hold up better on bad roads and tend to last longer. See: bicycleuniverse.com/best-road-bike-tires-for-puncture-resistance/ Regards, Tony
Rot or decay of the sidewall is typically the first sign of wear on a tyre’s sidewall. Ultraviolet rays in sunlight and the chemicals in cleaning products are just two factors that can cause the sidewall to degrade. Sitting for long periods of time (say in a wet garage) can cause dry rot. You'll see cracking of the sidewall and deterioration of the tire bead. You may even see some of the threads of the tire. For a complete review, see (although written for mountain bikes it also applies to road bicycle tires): mountainbikeexperience.com/how-do-i-keep-my-bike-tires-from-cracking/ Regards, Tony
Rider weight and the torque or power output have a big affect on wear rate. A rider weighing 220 lbs and putting out 400 watts average will wear tires much faster than a 130 lbs rider putting out 200 watts average. Also. the front tire will wear out at about 1/3 to 1/4 the rate of the rear tire. I generally rotate the front to the rear when my rear tire wears out and put a new tire on the front. Having the newest, best tire in front is important because a tire failure in front is much more dangerous than one in the rear.
Well said and thanks for the comment. I also rotate tires front to back and put a new one on the front. Do you keep the same clincher tubes (if you are running clinchers) or replace them when you replace the tire?
@@tony10speed Forgot to say great video. These are so helpful, especially for new riders and it is so nice for people like yourself to take the time to create these videos. One day I will take the time to do some as well. As far as tubes go, I generally keep the same tubes when I replace tires. They are not really exposed to sunlight and the elements the way tire rubber is so they generally last for a while. The one area where they can fail from wear is at the valve/tube bond. I've seen cracks develop around this area after the tube starts to get old. I think the pressure in the tube puts stress in this area as it presses against the edges of the valve hole in the rim. I usually cut a small piece of old inner tube, about an inch in diameter and punch a hole in the center of it. Then slip this over the valve stem so it provide some protection and support at the valve hole. Since I generally get flats in the rear only, I will patch a tube 2xs before I call it quits and replace the tube. Again, I will take the front tube and move to the back and then put new tube in the front tire. I almost never get flats in the front so a tube could end up being in there 5 years or more if I don't swap it out. I do run tubeless on my mountain and gravel bikes but for road, I think tubeless does not make much sense. The tire pressures are just too high so most of the air and sealant will spray out before the hole can seal, if it ever does seal. Also,The major benefit to tubeless is that it allows you to run lower pressures without worry of pinch flatting. But on road this is not an issue because pinch flats are much less common and you don't really need the lower tire pressures that help with extra grip need for off road.
@@robertpreato3891 I agree and you're right on the money. I use a small rubber gasket (between the valve locknut and the rim) from a rubber gasket kit (includes different sizes) I purchased off Amazon (TWCC 770 Pcs Rubber O Rings Kit 18 Size Universal Nitrile NBR Washer Gasket Assortment Set). It is suggested to use a small gasket on tubeless. The gasket holds up very well but the square of old tire trick will do as you describe. The gasket kit is also handy when repairing pump/chuck, over hauling suspension forks and seat post, and household/hose repairs.
One note: When tighten the locknut on the valve over the gasket, hand tighten so it's not loose but do NOT tighten too firmly. Tightening down the locknut firmly may put too much undo pressure on the valve where it enters the tube putting undo stress on the tube around the valve.
Cheers and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Yep, you are 100% correct, the o rings work great too. I have a similar kit that I got from Harbor Freight, the really small ones have come in handy replacing the o rings in CO2 inflator chucks. But since old tubes are otherwise thrown away, I like to use those for the tube protector at the valve stem. I also use pieces of old tube to make my own patches. Works better than the patch kits and cost is zero because the tube would have been thrown away.
I've never had a tyre fail at the front. I'vehad two newish tyres blow out at the rear though.
Finally a video that’s straight to the point!
That's our aim. Also visit our UA-cam home site at ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you for this. You’re a good man!! Keep spreading the knowledge
Thanks. We'll try. Regards, Tony
Tony, I want to send this video to people, but I would like to add the very common case of cracking on the sides due to tire drying and riding with low pressure, hence deformation. And the second common case is wear or even cutting of structural threads due to breaking pads touching it. This is sadly very common among people that would be more inclined to use the bike for commuting more often if not for constant mechanical problems that they have no idea how to prevent or spot.
Your points are very important. I will "pin" this comment so visitors and subscribers will see and note these. Thank you for your input. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Very correclty explained.... 👍
I’ve been cycling for years but never noticed wear indicators. After your video, checked my gp5000s and there they were all this time. No more tire replacements by „feel“Thanks for the video !
I find the wear indicator handy and important - but on some tires I notice significant wear and begin to see repeated flats before the tire wear indicators are gone. So when you check tires as in the video, don't neglect looking for other signs of wear besides the wear indicators. If the wear indicators are gone - definitely replace the tire.
Regards, Tony
Hi Tony, always leaning new stuff here on this channel, keep it going!
Thanks, will do!
Very well explained Sir ☺️
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Really appreciate the example photos. Thanks Tony!
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great informations. I never know when to change road bike tires because they really don't have tread when new.
Glad this was of help. I wish more road bike tires had tread indicators. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you for making this video sir!
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you for pointing out the TWI.
You're Welcome. Unfortunately, not all tires have them.
Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice video as always, Tony! I As you'll know, the rear almost always wears quicker, and you should favour maintaining the condition of the front tire, if pushed to favour one over the other, due to it's use in steering
Very true. The front is also your most important tire when braking (an upcoming video). The rear wears faster then the front as you mentioned. We will address the idea of rotating tires with wear ( a no no), moving the front to the rear and replacing the front with a new one as the tires wear, and other facts and fallacies in an upcoming video. Thanks for you comment. Regards, Tony
Another great video. Thanks, Tony.
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank u very much... great learning...
Glad to help out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thank you heisenburg
I may not be Professor Heisenburg, but your welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thanks TONY !
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
very good videos, so many of them
Your welcome. We try our best. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great tips, thanks
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed ok sir, will do :)
Great sharing
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks! Was just wondering if I should replaced my conti tyre. Will use it for a while more given that the tread wear indicator is still visible for the time being. But will top up the sealant instead. Chances of puncture generally higher around this time.
I run Conti tyres also. The tread indicators are pretty good, but I put in 5000 miles a year on my road bike and replace then yearly anyway. I put in only a few thousand miles on my mountain bike and replace them depending on the tire wear indicators, tread wear and I look for wear at the side walls and wear the bead meets the rim. A lot depends on the miles you do and the conditions you ride in. Top of the tires as you are doing and watch the wear carefully. Regards, Tony
5600 kms for a Gatorskin ? Not bad considering that they cost 85 USD ( aprox 9000 yen) the pair. Thanks for your help and information ℹ️
Remember, a lot depends on the type of tire you use and the road surfaces you ride as to how long the tire will last before you begin to experience repeated flats. Regards, Tony
Hi there. Thanks for sharing. I have a question. If I had the money to change one only and using a less weary tire. Which one do you recommend me to change first? The front or the rear one? Thanks in advance
I'd put your best tire on the front. The front is where most of your braking power lies. See:
ua-cam.com/video/uux3hTMPjog/v-deo.html
You also want to prevent a front tire blow out where you might lose control of the bike. Less likely to happen with a rear blow out. Regards, Tony
I have botranger racing tires. I use my bike to commute. I've put on 5000 miles the last year. I've had 1 thorn flat and 2 pinch flats(including one this morning). Based on this information alone, without inspection, would you recommend replacement?
Depends on the quality of the tire and your own experience. I know, with the Continental Gatorskins I use, the rear tire usually show wear at around 3000-3500 miles so that's when I usually remove it, discard the tire, put the front on the back and replace the front tire. See "Tire Rotation":
ua-cam.com/video/A1jaDExwgGc/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchandTonyMarchand
Some tires may last longer or shorter, again based on quality. For my riding partner who uses Endurance tires, I change the tires once each year (at around 4000 miles). She wants both replaced at the same time which is her choice. I don't use the Endurance because they're more difficult to install.
As to your pinch flats, if you hit a deep enough pot hole at speed it's bound to happen. Or if your tire pressure is low you'll see pinch flats. Butyl tubes loose about 1 psi each day, so it's worth pumping the tires to the proper psi once a week.
So it's hard for me to say. Personally, when I was commuting to work by bike, I put on new tires at least yearly (mainly because I wanted to give myself the best chance of getting to work on time). I still got an occasional flat, but psychologically I felt better. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you for your thorough explanation. That was very kind of you.
I just bought a 26 year old Raleigh 10 speed Road bicycle. It’s been stored inside a garage since brand new and has never been taken out and riden!! It’s a time capsule. As new condition just some dust. My question, since the narrow tires on this bike appear as new, would there be any need to replace them just due to age? Thanks in advance
If they look good and the rubber and bead show no cracking, they're probably fine. I have tires stored in our basement which is cool all year round and have a dehumidifier to keep the moisture down. Keeping them out of the heat or extreme cold and at a decent humidity seems to be the key. Here is everything you want to know about bicycle tire "dry rot":
www.fixyourdirtbike.com/tips/how/why-do-tires-dry-rot/
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed hey Thanks for your response. That’s a great help. Yes they look just like brand new still. Time capsule I’ve got on my hands here
The GP5000 tires dont last very long, you might get 1200 miles out of a back tire, they are excellent tires by all means, but the tpi is like 338, compared to the gaterskins 160 tpi. The more tpi, the less protection, but also the more conforming those tires are as well. And the more tpi, the faster you'll wear your tire down. But you'll ride alot faster.
Decreased longevity and side wall damage of the GP5000 is echoed by many other cyclist. My question for you is does the GP5000 really make you faster (or is that psychological)? Is it worth the shorter tire life span and are there other ways to make you more comfortable on your bike (such as going tubeless)? Here's a nice review of the GP5000 and TPI:
www.cyclingnews.com/features/what-is-tpi-in-bike-tyres/
What do you think? Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed the math proves it does, less rolling resistants, better grip on turns, due to the composition of rubber material. Also tpi has alot to do with it as well, as less tpi is less conforming, which if you're on the road, you have to slow down more into a turn, then you would with a tire that has more tpi, in turn, gives you more load on the face of the tire head. The gp5000 is taking more of a beating then say a gaterskin or ultrarace 3, because it is thinner, basically a piece of cloth with around an 8th of rubber thickness, i think it might be a bit more, but not much more, because they are high end racing tires. Continental has a few videos where the gp5000 line is a faster tire for racing. Ive gained a few seconds on runs where i had to slow down more with other tires, then i would have with the gp5000. Are the tires good for all terrains? No, each tire line is built for different surfaces. You wouldn't take a go5000 on a dirt trail, nor would you take a gaterskin to a wooden track. Not saying it cant be done, but the tire has less give than a racing tire. And from what ive seen with sidewall damage of the gp5000, people dont add the correct psi to their body weight. A 200+ lbs person needs alot more than 75psi on the back tire, and a 90lb person wouldnt need 110psi on the back tire. Now thats not to say they didnt get a defective tire, every brand has them on every line in cycling. Ive seen $4000 carbon rims explode, as ive also seen $100 dollar aluminum rims take KOMs on strava. Sometimes you just get a bad tire, like you have stated, its gonna happen. But mostly, in my experience with bikes, its operator error.
Now as for comfort, i dont find low tpi tires comfortable, thats just me, i like a tire that has a sticky tread. I do on average 5 to 600 miles a week, so around 24 to 29,000 miles a year, sometimes more if I'm doing a few ultra marathons that year. Ill use a tire that has a little more life to it then a gp5000. Not all roads are created equal, which im sure you have ran into some pretty poor roads. Thank you taxes. But it depends on what im doing, and how long ill ride, if i pick a tire with more tpi or less. If its smooth roads, and not alot of stops, gp5000 all day, a road ive never been down before, ill choose something with a little more protection. Its also a good thing to note as well, they make tire puncture strips, light weight, and pretty damn tough. And they tuck perfectly in the inside of any tire.
@@steve.o33 Thanks for your first hand account. I'm sure that the viewers will find the info useful. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed not a problem. I have enjoyed your videos.
Is there a way to know when tire was made? I read one comment about dealer sold old tire.
I wish there was. Buying tires from a reputable dealer with enough customers to keep the stock turning over rapidly is what I suggest. Some on-line dealers have a good reputation such as BikeTireDirect.com. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed thanks for reply and referral
For tiny pin holes or very tiny cuts, do you need to replace the tire?
A lot depends on the size of the cut. If very small, remove the tire and take a close look. Make sure no threads can be seen from the outside. If there's a small cut, make sure it has not penetrated through to the inside. You can probably still use it, but keep a close eye on the tire, checking it every-time you pump the tire up or do weekly maintenance. Some have used super glue to seal small cuts (note: I have not used this method personally and can not guarantee how well it works or how long it lasts):
ua-cam.com/video/h5m7lALptqI/v-deo.html&ab_channel=simplyPlugIn
Hi Tony, Have you any plans to make a video on puncture resistant tyres?
Good thought for a video. Thanks and safe cycling, Tony
Even for new tires I’m getting threads on the tires like 1:17 is this normal ? Have been trying different tires but that problem doesn’t seem to go away
I would like to change tyre of my road bike using the same rim but wider tyre.Which one will i check from the previous tyre?Cheers
The tire you can use will depend on the internal width of the wheels rim. Too small or too big may result in the tire popping out while riding which is a BIG DANGER. There are some on-line suggestions but, to play it safe, check the manufacturer's rim specifications on-line or check with your local bike store for the tires sizes you can use. Regards, Tony
Do you rotate the front tire to the back and put the fresh tire in front?
That's the plan. The rear tire wears 3 times faster then the front so you still have some good milage left in the front.
Hi Tony . I notice wear on my tires right in the middle as I use them on a bike trainer as well. Any suggestions on using tires on a bike trainer? Thanks
Save your old worn road tires to use on a trainer. I have an extra rear wheel with a moderately worn tire that I place on the bike before putting it on the trainer. Though the tire is worn with less rubber between the surface and the treads, on a trainer you're unlikely to have a flat. You can continue to use that specific tire on the trainer much much longer then you could out on the road. When I can see tread or get leaks around the valve, I throw it away and use another old tire I've saved
Regards, Tony.
@@tony10speed Thanks for the tip. I also noticed you mentioned you use gator skin tires. Do they result in significant power loss while cycling long distance compared to the regular factory tires? I have read in some discussion boards that the gator skins are not efficient but offer better protection again flats.
@@eechaze12 If you are a pro or amateur racer, you may consider other tires. For me, they offer better flat protection on long rides (the correct pressure is essential - not the max nor less then the minimum - but that's for another video). Minimal watt gains and grams in weight savings for most of use who are not racers are much hyped up. The conditioning, weight and strength of the rider are far more important. But that's my personal opinion. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Does the type of tire make a difference as far as wear?
Yes. Some tires, such as those used for triathlons and time trials, tend to be light and thin for speed. Others like Continental Gatorskin and Hutchinson Intensive 2 Road tend to add Kevlar (and weight) but hold up better on bad roads and tend to last longer. See: bicycleuniverse.com/best-road-bike-tires-for-puncture-resistance/
Regards, Tony
👍👍👍
Thanks Joel. Safe cycling, Tony
What makes bike tyre side wear?
Rot or decay of the sidewall is typically the first sign of wear on a tyre’s sidewall. Ultraviolet rays in sunlight and the chemicals in cleaning products are just two factors that can cause the sidewall to degrade. Sitting for long periods of time (say in a wet garage) can cause dry rot. You'll see cracking of the sidewall and deterioration of the tire bead. You may even see some of the threads of the tire. For a complete review, see (although written for mountain bikes it also applies to road bicycle tires):
mountainbikeexperience.com/how-do-i-keep-my-bike-tires-from-cracking/
Regards, Tony