A true teacher would never tell you what to do. But he would give you the knowledge with which you could decide what would be best for you to do.” ― Christopher Pike, Sati Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Knowledge comes from experience. Few recognize as you do. How you deal with that knowledge is called "wisdom." Thank you for the complement. Regards, Tony
@@xXTrYhArrdXx ikr sometimes old people don’t know everything. My grandpa said I shouldn’t clean it and only a technician should do it. Waste of money.
"For me every 150-200 miles, for you maybe just once a week." That had me rolling, nice subtle flex :) Great video, short and sweet (like my bike rides lol).
@@ATAHUALPA867 I like to keep my bike at top performance and want my chain and drivetrain to last as long as possible, but that's just me. I know some individual will just let things go until everything is severely worn and then replace the chain, cassette, and chain rings. Each onto their own. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
NOTE: I now use just a very tiny drop of turpentine on the cloth to wipe down the surface grit on the chain and then let the turp evaporate (for a few minutes) as I clean the rest of the drive train. Then re-lubricate placing one drop on each roller. I mostly use a dry lube and leave that overnight to let the solvent evaporate before I wipe off the excess lube before my next ride. If using a wet lubricant, check with the manufacturers instruction on use. I no longer use degreaser which may degrade the lube. Once a month (more often if I ride in the rain or muck) I do a thorough cleaning with degreaser/soap and water/wipe down with clean cloth.
I do a quick clean of the chain and then drop lubricant on each chain link (yes, it does take a few seconds longer then just spraying lubricant on the chain). After wiping off the excess lubricant on the chain, there's still enough to lubricate the cassette and chain rings as you run through the gears. Spaying more lubricant on the the cassette and chainrings tends to pick up dirt and grime from the road, and actually increase wear chain, cassette and chainring wear and decreases the life of the drivetrain. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Sorry for not understanding. Do you use the turp after degreasing so that the degreaser is removed by the turp? Or you don't use any degreaser at all? Thanks in advance. I find your videos very useful.
@@Sudipto17Kolkata I use turpentine for quick cleanup, wipe off the excess and let it evaporate quickly. Then lubricate. I don't use degreaser unless I'm going to wash my chain and drivetrain with soap and water (as I do with a thorough bike cleaning). Residual degreaser reacts and may neutralize chain lubricants making the lubricant ineffective. Degreasers need to be thoroughly washed off with soap and water. Regards, Tony
@Fire Fox gamer GCN makes it look easy in this video: ua-cam.com/video/q_EB-uW5WCc/v-deo.html But I've worked on bikes where the chain is tightly wedged between the small chain ring and frame. I had to slowly work out each link by hand while applying pressure on the rear derailleur as in the above video. It takes some time but can be done. Some individuals turn the bike upside down and work out the chain with a screw driver of a multi-tool (but the multi-tool may damage the frame). It take much patience and the need to work slowly. As a last resort, have your bike shop remove the crank and chain rings from the bottom bracket. Once removed, the inner limiting screw probably needs adjustment. Also consider a "chain catcher" to keep this from happening (your bike shop can help you with this. Sorry I can't be of more help. Let me know if you can remove the chain. Regards, Tony
I just purchased my bike about month and half ago and I’m at 225 miles now. Thank you for the easy explaining video!! I’m gonna attempt this cause u made it look simple
Also see our follow up video for changes or additions to the quick cleanup: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards and safe cycling, Tony
few months ago, when i`ve just started to ride, I would be really-really grateful if someone told me how to clean chain and cogs. very useful tips for newbies like me. thank you! thumb`s up!
We have another video on added tips to 2 minute cleanup. You may or may not want to make some substitutions if you find it helpful: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
You clean your bike the way I have done as a child, & still do to this day, if it's not broken DON'T fix it, my father lord was a bike mechanic & thought me this way, it also takes me back to the good times of doing it on a Saturday night getting ready for going off on the Sunday, even the smell of the oily rags>pure nostalgia & it set me up for a life time of seeing the world under your own steam 👌 keep doing what you do 👍
Hi. I. Use. Cuboom. It. .a. Good. Job. But. GET. One. In. A. Blue. Dome. Dose. A. Better. Job. If. Have. A. New. Bike. And. Take. Good. Cair. Of. It. Spray. It on. When. The. Blue. Fades. Hose. It. Off. I. Have a. 1997. RALEIGH. M. 7000. It's. Like. New. And. It's. Four. Sale. IL try. To. Send a. Photo. Out. To. You
Thank you Wiinston. Glad your still out there enjoying the scenery and fun of cycling. P.S. Also see our video below for changes/additions/substitutions in the Quick Clean video you may want to try: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
I’ve been intending to make a similar video for years, so thank you! I’ve used lots of different chain lubes over the last 40+ years. Recently, I’ve been using a 5:1 mix of mineral spirits and 90 weight gear oil. It does a great job of cleaning and will last at least 300 miles, but I do it as often as you do. I apply it with a small brush, backpedal the chain a few times and then remove as much as I can with a rag. Done! One mistake a lot of people make is lubing their chain right before a ride. Most of these products are solvent based, so they need time for the solvent to evaporate before they can do their job. It’s better to apply the stuff after a ride than before one! Thanks again!
Your combination of 5:1 mineral oil and 90 weight gear oil is an interesting idea which I will try. I do also agree with you about letting the solvent evaporate ahead of time before riding. I also clean my bike when I return from a ride (do a 2 minute cleanup unless I've been riding in the rain and muck in which case I'll wash down my bike, dry and re-lube) and then let the bike sits overnight until the next ride. You make some very good points. Thanks for the info which will help our viewers immensely. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony Marchand You are right about doing a more thorough cleanup after a wet ride. The worst part is the grit that gets on the brake pads. It becomes a rim grinder that you can hear. I hate that sound! After riding in the rain, I use a small wire brush on the brake pads and pick out any embedded grit. I then wash off the rims (which will have a lot of dark gray dust on it - that’s aluminum dust that was basically wet-sanded off the rim). I use an old kitchen scrubbing sponge that has lost its aggressive bite to scrub the rims. If you want the bike to look it’s best, remember to wipe the spokes, too!
Depending on how much you ride and the conditions you ride in, a quick clean after every other ride or after riding in wet conditions seems to suit my purposes. I now use some turpentine on a cloth and let it evaporate for a few hours or overnight before re-lubing as noted in my comment below. Nothing like a sparkling bike which shifts well and is quit. Regards, Tony
Great tips. I do this every week, and love the quietness/smoothness of the drivetrain; also the chain lasts longer, mine is 3000 kilometer and counting (I check for chain wear after cleaning).
I also do this weekly or every 150 miles (which ever comes first) and it does, in my experience, improve performance as well as the life of the drivetrain. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Wow! This is almost the same thing I used to do for a long time and which came with experience. Except that I take off the chain everytime to wash it in benzine (quick link chain). I simply put it into a tight container with a double bottom which has many holes in it and shake for a minute or two. The main amount of dirt and tiny waste pieces of metal concentrate below the chain remaining it really clean. I take the chain out, let benzine dry out, sometimes I warm up the chain with a hair dryer and then lubricate. And yes, the same operations with towel :)
What do you do with the rest of the benzine? Do you reuse it? I ask because benzine is not very environmentally friendly. A note on the quick link (master link): KMC now makes reusable master links (one must note the number of times you can remove and replace the link before enough wear occurs that may cause damage and have your chain come apart). One can get a reusable KMC master link for almost any speed that will match your chains manufacturer. Thanks Pako, Tony
This is a great video and I appreciate that it's straight to the point. Although one recommendation I would make is to use a long skinny brush to get deeper into the cassette
Thanks Tony for the video, your technique worked like a charm on my neglected chain and drive train for my road bike. Now to do the same to my very old Mt bike that I converted to a commuter some years ago.
You remind me of a guy I met who I bought some tools from off Craigslist. We went in the basement were he had the tools and his basement looked like a bike shop. He musta had over 10 bikes hanging from the floor joists, and a bunch of weights too. He said they were all his. Plus, there were more in his garage. I think he said these were going to be sold. Dude had alot of cool toys
Thanks Tony. Just began my cycling and mountain biking journey. This helps a ton as I’m not on riding trails but now commuting to work on a daily basis.
The "Quick 2 min Clean Up" is really meant for road cycling. Mountain bikes require a lot more cleaning depending on the trail conditions. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed I spent a little longer than 2 minutes but some of your technique definitely applied. If this is a road cyclist only channel I can unsubscribe.
It is. Thanks. Also see the following video in case you want to make some changes or additions: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
What you are talking about is a yearly overhaul. It's quite a bit to put into a single video but take a look at our maintenance schedule (especially the "Once or Twice a Year" and "Yearly" that we use: sites.google.com/site/bicyclemaintenancerepair/ Regards, Tony
Thanks for this great video. I replace my chain and cassette so often that I did not care much about cleaning. But the cogs get grime often that I use a flat screwdriver to remove the thick stuff before lubing my chain. A clean drivetrain looks and feels so much better. Your video is quick and I don't have to remove the chain and bother with that hassle.
Here's another video with some additions/changes to our 2 minute quick drivetrain clean up that you may want you to use: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Thanks for the compliment. Regards, Tony
Great video as always, thank you! I love the Gear Floss ropes for cassette cleaning because you can get between the gear teeth as well as the sides. I also use an air compressor to clean the chain- give it a blast into a rag, then lubricate. Gets off all the little grit that a brush and rag leaves behind.
You also may be interested in our other video: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand By the way, what type/model air compressor do you use (I'm looking for one myself)? Regards, Tony
Tony Marchand It’s a quite old one that a friend let me have, so sorry I can’t help with a recommendation. Forgot to mention I primarily use Tri Flow spray to both clean and lubricate the chain. Spray directly on chain with rag behind it.
Nice video Tony! I never throw out an old T shirt without cutting out the collar. It works great for flossing between the cogs while the bike is on a work stand. The rest of the shirt can be used for rags. I wipe my chain and drive train clean every 2 or 3 rides but I lube it a little differently than you. I put the bike on a stand horizontally and drip lube every roller, not from the top but from the side I let it sit for an hour or two, and then wipe off any excess. Thanks again for the video.
@@tony10speed When you are in the riding position, and you look down at the chain, I call that the top of the chain. When you've fallen down, from your cleats not disengaging and your bike is laying on the side, I call that the side of the chain. There are 2 lubricating pivots on each link that I touch with the drip lube. Thanks again.
@@alg4943 Applying lubricate on the sides of each roller (to lubricate the pin and plate) is surely the ideal. Unfortunately, most of us don't take the added time. Regards, Tony
Very nice,simple and straight to the point video!!! I was searching for a good detailed video on how to clean and online a bike chain...found everything I needed to know in this video.Great job!
Thanks. If you want to make some additions or substitutions to this quick cleanup, see our video: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand You can substitute what's comfortable for you and works the best. Regards, Tony
Good video,,, i clean my chain and sprockets in a similar manner, I ride MTB in Arizona with alot of dust/dirt requiring a daily cleaning after each ride. I have a tip that i can add, besides following the steps shown in the video, after adding degreaser to a rag or old towel, and before adding lube ( i use dry lube) for Arizona... i take a cotton ear swab and for chains that are 9 sp thru 12 spd, the ear swab fits snuggly between each link and insert / clean each link. I can cleanout alot of gunk and debris,this way. it doesnt take long and i usually go thru 2 or 3 ear swabs on a chain cleaning....Keep riding! - on a clean chain that is!!
Thanks for the tip. Some individuals use a shoe lace to run between the links. I, myself, prefer a long bristled brass brush (available at your local hardware store or on Amazon). I hold it on the chain and run the chain backward. Quick and easy. See: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html Regards, Tony
Some old tee shirts are better then others. Cotton undershirts don't work at all. You can also use a pipe cleaner to clean the cassette, but it must be an 18 mm pipe cleaner (from Amazon). We'll show you on an upcoming video. Regards, Tony
Thanks for the tips. I don't let the lube sit over night. I do however let the chain dry over night after washing my whole bike. I guess I'll let the lube set in and see how that goes.
It's not necessary to let it sit overnight (although if I have time, I do let it sit). You have the right idea in making sure everything is dry after washing. Regards, Tony
Great tutorial Tony. Would you also brief us after the job is done, how to clean all the greasy tool, cloth, sponge, brush, gloves and container for reuse?
Glad it helped. Note: I now use a very tiny bit of turpentine on the cloth to wipe the superficial grime off the chain, use a soft brass brush to get the grime out between the chain links, wipe the chain till clean and work on wiping down the rest of the drive train. When I finish, I wait a few minutes of any superficial turps to evaporate and come back to lubricate the chain (on line at a time so as not to get lubricant on rim or disc brakes or wheel rim) and then wipe off the excess lubricant. Regards, Tony
As noted in the comments, I now use just a tiny drop to turpentine on the cloth instead of degreaser when I wipe the chain (since it evaporates quickly). You can also use a pipe cleaner (must be 18 mm wide from Amazon) for the cassette. Regards, Tony
Thanks. Note my pinned comment. Also some lubricants (such as Finish Line Dry and ProLink) should be allowed to "dry" overnight to allow evaporation of the solvent and then the excess wiped off before your next ride. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Woops. I just sprayed degreaser, scrubbed the chain and drivetrain with a bristle brushed it a few times and rinsed it off. Then again it did get the job done.
You're welcome. You can also use a pipe cleaner to "floss" the cassette. If you do, use 18 mm ones from Amazon. Just bend one around the top of the cog, turn the pedal, then move on to the next cog. Regards, Tony
Tony, someone had referenced WD-40 in an earlier comment. Just wanted to mention that WD-40 makes a specific bike chain degreasing product, an aerosol spray foam. I've been using it for over a year now, and it works great. But I absolutely appreciate the tips on the brass bristle brush for the chain, and the "flossing" method for the cassette. Makes a ton of sense!
I am familiar with the WD-40 Bike Degreaser. Of interest is that the main ingredient is a compound with the same qualities as that of regular WD-40 (my undergraduate chemistry BA comes in handy). Both these compounds are mainly for "water displacement" leaving a small amount of residual lubricant that doesn't last very long. It may work for you, but your drivetrain will wear more then if you use other cleaners. For a quick clean, I now use a dab of turpentine on a cloth, wipe off superficial dirt and grime, brush, wipe again till the rag is clean, let sit a bit until the turps has evaporated and then re-lubricate (all in 2-3 minutes). For a thorough cleaning about once every other month, I use Finish Line Orange degreaser, brush it on the chain, cassette and chainrings. Scrub it with a stiff brush and then wash it down with soap and water. Then spray with water and wipe dry. Now, when dry, re-lubricate. Your chain and drivetrain will last a lot longer and your bike will preform better with the quick clean and periodic thorough wash. I, myself, stay away from the new WD-40 Bike, but that's just my thoughts for what they're worth. Regards, Tony
That's impressive. I only do this about every 140 miles (that's about every 3 rides). Does this decrease chain and cassette wear? How many miles can you get out of a chain (and cassette) before either needs replacement?
If you're doing your own maintenance, a good stand will pay for its self, so don't go with the cheap models which aren't worth the money. If you are working on a road bike, consider either the Park PCS 10.2 or the Bikehand Repair Stand. If you have a mountain bike or Ebike, you're going to need something more sturdy and will have to look around. Read the reviews carefully and make sure there is some type of warranty or that you can return the stand if it does not work for you. I use an old park non fold-able stand that is about 25 years old - all metal and no plastic. But they just don't make them like they use to (but that can be said for many of today's products). Let me know what you pick out and how it works for you. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Haha thanks for the info. Ive been doing small repairs here and there on my roadbike and now that my LBS is swamped with Covid riders Ive been really getting hands on with my bike repairs. Thanks for the info and great videos. I will definitely look into the models you suggested.
@@volcom05345 until you get yourself a proper one, you can use your ironing table as a placeholder. You put your bike's top tube perpendicular on top of the front part of the ironing table and voila, your bike is in the air for minor adjustments/cleanings. :)
See our maintenance schedule: docs.google.com/document/d/1J9w2t1iXL5MH3lrCah3FzPDJ1n_yabjjXwLA3fw4rc8 Also see our playlist: ua-cam.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/v-deo.html If you have a question on any of the videos in the maintenance playlist, just comment and I'll get back to you. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Just had a bike technician suggest that for the oil, that the bike comes out of the factory from, (which is some sort of translucent grease) I do not need to use a decreaser and I can just apply new lube after a wipe
This is one of the few times I disagree with the manufacturers recommendations. The thick oil coating on new chains is to prevent rust and corrosion. It's very sticky and will pick up much road dirt and grime causing increased chain wear. It may also subsequently interfere with any chain lubricant you add. Many mechanic, including myself, favor removing the grease coating with degreaser, then wash and dry the chain. Add new lubricant when placed on the bike. Turn the crank so the lubricant get into all the links, bushings and pins. Allow the new lubricant to sit overnight to soaks in and wipe off the excess the next morning. I have also used Pure Distilled Turpentine and soaked the chain overnight. Then wipe it off the next morning and hang the chain to dry. Removes most of the thick oil although not as good as degreaser. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hello there Tony from the Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic and thank you so much for your videos!! they are super helpful. :) I have some questions if you would be so kind: 1.- When you apply the degreaser, I see that you did not wash it off with soapy water as I have seen in other videos (new to cycling) so trying to figure out how to do things. Is this all right to leave it on before lubing the chain with dry lube? 2.- I live in tropical climate, and there is a a lot of salt in the air from the sea here, the sea is just 10 mins away from my home. I use dry lube as I ride on pavement on my commutes. This was recommended to me by my bike mechanic. If let's say I clean my cassette (sparkling), chain etc with something like paint thinner instead of degreaser and then lube my chain, won't the cassette rust because of being exposed to the air? or do I have to shift each gear after I lube in order to make sure there is a film of chain lube protecting each gear? Hope I am explaining myself correctly, if not just let me know. 3.- Can I apply a small amount of paint thinner / turpentine to the cloth and use that to floss clean, make my cassette shiny? mine is black at the moment. Thanks again for spreading the knowledge :) PS: I live in a 4th floor walk-up so don't have quick access to have water and soap running... Can do it down stairs but that entails more setup and looking for a way to keep my maintenance of drivetrain, essentials especially as sometimes I have gotten rained on. would like to have the bike running silently and f there is a way to avoid water and soap for the drivetrain, chain, rings clean up / maintenance would appreciate it. :)
This quick method is only weekly when riding in dry conditions. 1. I use a very tiny drop of pure gum turpentine (if none is available, just use a dry cloth). Then wipe the chain with a dry part of the cloth. What's left on the chain will quickly evaporate. If you use degreaser or if the bike is wet with grime, yes, you should wash of the chain with soap and water. 2. I just wipe down the cassette to remove grime and dirt. It should not need degreaser and, when clean, should not rust. HOWEVER, living by the ocean, the salt conditions change everything. Washing (or at least rinsing) and thoroughly drying the bike and drivetrain followed by lubrication of the chain (be sure to wipe off the excess after lubrication) is probably the best way of preventing rust. Using lubricant on the cassette and chainrings will only attract more grime and salt from the road. Salt is a real bike killer and keeping your bike from rusting is a real challenge. When storing the bike, keep in inside or somewhere dry. 3. You can floss the cassette with pure gum turpentine (very tiny amount on a cloth). I don't use paint thinner which, as opposed to pure gum turpentine, contains a small amount of petroleum by products (oil) that will attract dirt/salt and may interfere with subsequent chain lubricants. Without access to water to wash your bike and remove any salt, it becomes a real challenge to prevent rust. You can get a garden sprayer to at least rinse the bike and drivetrain quickly and wipe it down to help remove the salt. See our video: ua-cam.com/video/J8UreIp7ypI/v-deo.html I hope this addresses some of your question. Thanks for the comment and if any of our viewers have other ideas, please let us know. Regards, Tony
Thanks Tony. Just wanted to know - Would just lubricating the chain without cleaning it first be better than not lubricating it at all? I know the proper way is to clean it first but just wanted to find the answer to this question.
You really need to wipe the chain first. If you don't have Pure Gum Turpentine, just wipe the chain with a clean cloth, lubricate, pedal backward to work the lubricant into the chain, then wipe off the excess. Finding an old rag, old t-shirt or even paper towel to wipe the chain should not be hard. Don't let the chain go without lubricant and don't just keep adding more lubricant which will mix with the dirt and grime already there and increase the chain wear. Do it right and you'll note improved bike performance and longer lasting chain and bike components. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
It's a 30 year old all metal stand from Park Tool with a special addition that allow you to work on a bike while standing or sitting on a stool. It has a very heavy sheet of metal as a base to make it very sturdy. Unfortunately, this quality stand is no longer made and has been replaced with others, that, although adjustable in height, now have plastic parts and are not as sturdy as the old ones were. I've been looking at todays bike stands and have yet to come up with a recommendation. I would love to hear from our viewer. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed That's exactly what I want...something where I can stand or sit and not have to worry about upsetting a delicate bike balancing act. And also handle the weight of my ebike. I spent a good hour today looking at bikestand youtube videos and I'm not impressed with any of them.
Hello there Tony! I ride Lappiere with aluminium frame and I had an old steal bike but now I got real road bike and I was really thinking about cleaning the chain and chain rings, but I was not quite sure how to do it properly and this video and tutorial you made was a great and really helpful to me! You deserve my like and subscribe! God bless you Tony! Keep up the good work!
FYI: See my comment below about using turpentine on the cloth and then letting the turp evaporate before applying lube. Thanks for the compliment. Regards, Tony
Hi, awesome tips. I see your bike has a nice tire clearance, it makes it very versatile. Pretty neat. Id put some 28s, fenders and make it an all around (commute/training) machine.
Here is one from a few years ago: ua-cam.com/video/J_bGEZky02k/v-deo.html For more advanced adjustments, see Calvin Jones of Park Tools: ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html Regards, Tony
Since I ride in dry conditions (and avoid the rain and wet), I use Finish Line Dry which is available at your local bike store, many on-line bicycle stores as well as Amazon: www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Lubricant-Teflon-Squeeze/dp/B00Z779GMO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3SYIEA33YCODH&keywords=finish%2Bline%2Bdry%2Bbike%2Blubricant&qid=1652042135&sprefix=finishline%2Bdry%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjVJWk85UkpMM0FYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODc5Njk2Mzc0QjgwWUFRMFRCMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTc2NTYzMkNRN1A1OVVJR1dNVCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1 But for every chain lubricant out there, you'll find die hard advocates. The choice is up to you and the conditions you ride in. But the "Quick 2-minute Drivetrain Clean and Lubrication" process is the same for whatever lubricant you use (unless you desire to wax your chain as many do in the UK) and almost all bicycles including mountain bikes. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony - a great video ! thanks for helping others - Question, should there ever be grease on the casette cogs ? My brand new Giant Hybrid Roam 2 came with quite a lot on it ! I take it there shouldnt be grease on the cogs, and we should just be using oil on the chain ?
You are correct that you should be lubricating just the chain (which will allow it to slide over the teeth of the cogs). Any grease covering the cassette will just pick up dirt and grime causing wear to the entire drive train. See Quick 2 minute cleanup: ua-cam.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand and How to Lubricate Your Bicycle Chain: ua-cam.com/video/ubKCHtZ20-0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
You may also be interested in the following video if you want to make some changes or substitutions to the Quick 2 minute clean up: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
Thanks @Tony Marchand for this efficient method. I was wondering : any reason to coat the lube directly on the chain ? I'm used to coat the lube on the cassette and on the crank rings, and then rotate in order to lubricante the chain.
I do a quick clean of the chain and then drop lubricant on each chain link (yes, it does take a few seconds longer then just spraying lubricant on the chain). After wiping off the excess lubricant on the chain, there's still enough to lubricate the cassette and chain rings as you run through the gears. Spaying more lubricant on the the cassette and chainrings tends to pick up dirt and grime from the road, and actually increase wear chain, cassette and chainring wear and decreases the life of the drivetrain. Regards, Tony
There are many videos about cleaning the drive train and then lubing your chain with hot wax mixed with PTFE. The results are amazing as the wax does not attract dirt. I think the Brits started this method, but it's taken hold everywhere. Some of the better chain lubes have a carrier that dries out and leaves PTFE on the chain.....so the lube makers are trying to get you there the easy way.
Waxing your chain, at least in my opinion, is a cumbersome task (I use to do this regularly and it works as you say). Heating and handling hot wax is not my thing. Removing the remaining wax after most is worn off requires petrol before re-waxing. Also not my thing. But if you don't mind the procedure, it does a great job. There are several lubricants out there that dry to leave PTFE behind. One is Dri Lube Bike Lubricant with Syncolon. I currently use Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube applied to each link, let it soak in for an hour and wipe off the excess. It is not as good as waxing but seems to be an easy alternative. I wipe down the chain, re-lubricate and wipe off the excess about every 120 - 150 miles. Thanks and regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Interesting take on this, thanks. Yes, there are products now that have a carrier that dries and leaves the PTFE. However, in actual road use, unlike a waxed chain, you can run a rag over the chain and it comes off black. Mostly the rag wipes clean with the wax. And yes, the wax is certainly a 'process'. I'm on the fence on this......
@@TheReal1953 You can try it but take warning: dealing with hot wax is dangerous. Removing the remaining wax and grit after the wax has begun to wear off is also not an easy task. See: ua-cam.com/video/9x8JTUa_hZU/v-deo.html It's also time consuming and I rather be out cycling, but that's just my humble opinion. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed True, very time consuming. The waxers would argue though that they get more miles between chain cleaning than an other lube. I rotate through three bikes, so actual chain wear for me isn't as bad as having one main bike.
It's even more important with darn emtbs. They take much more wear, more riding kilometers and invite user to have insane fun in woods for hours. So that's my routine more or less 3 times a week. I learned to do it and know it takes no time. Why don't you use delubricant?
If one uses degreaser, it needs to be washed from the drivetrain and chain with soap and water, then rinsed off and the drivetrain needs to be allowed to dry before lubrication. Any residual degreaser will not evaporate and may interfere with any chain lubricant one uses. For my 2 minute drivetrain cleanup, I use either a dry cloth or add a very tiny bit of turpentine to the cloth to wipe off the superficial grease and grime from the chain, wipe down the rest of the drive train with a dry cloth, and, by the time I'm finished, what little turpentine I've used has evaporated. I can now re-lubricate the chain. If there's significant dirt and mud, I'll use degreaser, wash with soap and water, rinse, dry and then lubricate.
Thanks for watching. I do a quick clean (now using a tiny drop of turpentine on the cloth which will evaporate rapidly and not interfere with any lubricant I use) every 150 or so miles and a thorough cleaning with degreaser followed by washing down my bike and then re-lubricating about every other month depending on the conditions I ride in. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the video :). Just wondering, can usung the decreaser to clean before oiling the chain affect the lubrication of the oil? I assume not much decreaser will be left on the parts anyway since the rag is used and will wipe it back into the rag along with the dirt.
I use a tiny drop of Pure Gum Turpentine which will easily evaporate. If you have no Turpentine, just use a clean cloth. Degreaser needs to be washed off with soap and water since it will not completely evaporate and may interfere with may bicycle lubricants. I also don't use Mineral Spirits since they contain additional petroleum products that will interfere with subsequent lubrication. I will sometimes use degreaser if I'm going to wash the chain/bike with soap and water, rinse, and wipe dry. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks so much for the reply Tony. I don't have turpentine at the moment but would isopropyl alcohol work? Also can I use it around the other parts of drivetrain besides the chain only. Also can i spray the I.P. Alcohol/turpentine directly onto the chain/drivetrain? If I can't use isopropyl alcohol I'll buy some turpentine. Thanks :)
You can use isopropyl alcohol on a cloth and wipe down the chain. I would not use a spay since it's hard to control where it goes. Isopropyl on a cloth is my preference. You really don't want to get any solvent into the hubs bearings, freehub, or pulley bearings. If the drivetrain is really dirty, you may need degreaser carefully applied to the drivetrain and avoiding the bearings & disc brake pads , washing the bike with soap and water, rinse and dry.@@7798chrisd
@tony10speed Thanks so much. Just to clarify - the I.P. alcohol/turpentine applied to the cloth is for the chain only. (You clean the rest of the drive train with a dry cloth/no chemicals)? Thanks mate. Chris from Australia 🇭🇲
@@7798chrisd Yes. Unless your chain and drivetrain are very dirty in which case you'll need to wash everything down with soap and water, rinse and dry.
PB Blaster makes specific bicycle chain cleaners and lubricants. However, if you're talking about the regular PB Blaster Penetrating Oil and rust remover, I would not use that as a chain cleaner of lubricant. The chain is probably shot unless you deep clean it and get all of the penetrating oil out of the chain. PB Blaster penetrates way deeper than something like WD40 and will displace any lube you add to it unless it's completely removed with a thorough washing (which still may not remove all the penetrating oil). I would stick with degreasers and lubricants made specifically for bicycles. With that said, some have used Kerosene with some success. Anyone have any other ideas or suggestions? Regards, Tony
I just clean and lubricate the chain, wiping off the excess lubrication. There always remains a small amount of lubricant on the chain, even after wiping almost all visible traces off the chain, that lubricates the teeth of the cassette cogs. Adding additional lubricant to the cassette cogs just results in picking up more dirt and grime from the road. At least that's what I have found. I don't use spray lubricant which gets all over everything and picks up a lot of dirt. Rather, I drop lubricant on each link of the chain slowly and carefully, let it sit, then wipe off the excess. Regular cleaning of the whole drivetrain including the chainrings, cassette cogs, derailleur pulley wheels and cleaning / lubrication of the chain (wiping of the excess lubricant) can make the chain and other parts of the drivetrain last much longer the otherwise. How often depends on how much you ride. For me, I clean and lubricate every 150 miles or after riding in the rain or muck. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for answering. I followed your video and cleaned it yesterday. I had a ride this morning and I can feel the difference. So thanks a million.
does the residual degreasing compound that is left on the drivetrain (or elsewhere) have any negative effects (incl. e.g. penetration into sealed bearings, etc.)? (i'm in part thinking of a scenario whereby i might choose to spray the degreaser on both groups of sprockets and jockey wheels).
In our Quick 2 min Bike Drivetrain Cleaning, we use a very tiny drop of Pure Gum Turpentine to wipe the chain (or clean cloth if Turpentine is not available). Then use a dry clean cloth for the rest of the drivetrain. The Turp on the chain will quickly evaporate (use in well ventilated area only). I do not use degreaser, especially a spray degreaser which will get onto the wheel rim (rim brakes) or disc rotor/pads. Degreaser interferes with many of the common bike lubricants we use and needs to be washed off. If used, degreaser should be washed off with soap and water and rinsed away. Degreasing your drivetrain is over-rated. In most cases, do a quick clean as in the video or, if your bike is very dirty, wash with soap and water, use a brush that will fit between the sprockets of the cassette and rinse, dry, lubricant. Please don't use a spray degreaser (it can also get into the wheel/hub bearings or jockey wheels and remove any grease necessary for proper lubrication). Regards and safe cycling, Tony
No, I'm using a very tiny drop of pure gum turpentine. I then wipe the chain dry and let it evaporate while I wipe the chainrings, pulley wheels and cassette with a dry part of the cloth. Finally lubricate the chain, work it in by turning the crank backward, let it sit and wipe excess lubricant from the chain. If I used degreaser, yes, I would want to wash it off with soap and water. Thanks for your observations and safe cycling, Tony
Probably not. However, many just use a clean cloth without any additives to wipe the grime and grit off the chain. May take just bit longer to get the superficial grime off, but the turpentine is not an absolute necessity and then you don't have to worry about any residual interfering with the lubrication you use. With dry lubricants such as Finish Line and ProLink, I let them sit overnight (to let most of the solvent in the lubricant evaporate ) and wipe off the excess before my next ride. Regards, Tony
No. Most of the wear on the cassette comes from wear of the chain, that is, as the rollers wear, the length between rollers increases in length. If the chain is not "worn," the rollers should easily glide over the cassette if the cassette has been wiped clean with a dry cloth. Placing degreaser or other liquids on the cassette will only pick up dirt and degrade any chain lubricant I use. I now clean the superficial grime off the chain with a very tiny bit of turpentine (not degreaeser) on the cloth, then wipe, apply a soft brass brush to the chain to get and dirt out from between links, wipe the chain thoroughly with a DRY cloth. Now with a dry cloth, wipe the pulley wheels and chainrings. By the time I'm finished I'm ready to lubricate the chain. After lubrication, I run the chain backward to allow the lubricant to work it's way around the chain rollers. I then let it sit overnight (so the lubricant solvent evaporates ) and wipe off the excess lubricant the next day before my next ride. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Do you all usually throw away the old rag/ shirt after one use? Or rinse it and re-use? Cause it cannot really be cleaned but such a waste to throw as well.
Here a video on that exact subject: ua-cam.com/video/Kl7ZlFFpUps/v-deo.html Let me know what you think. You can also buy cheap rags and cloths on ebay, enough to last a very long time. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Yes you can. It a quick clean up between bike washes. But, here in the north where we have lots of mud and dirt, I wind up most of the time hosing down the bike after a ride, wiping it down and using some new chain lube depending on the conditions I ride. Regards, Tony
Thanks. I clean and lubricate the drivetrain about every 150 mile (or just after I've been riding in the rain or wet muddy roads) and the chain lasts much longer then expected (same for the cassette and chain rings). Regards, Tony
NOTE: I now use just a very tiny drop of turpentine on the cloth to wipe down the surface grit on the chain and then let the turp evaporate (for a few minutes) as I clean the rest of the drive train. If not turpentine, just wipe the chain as clean as possible (you can use an old t-shirt). Then re-lubricate. I mostly use a dry lube and leave that overnight to let the solvent evaporate before I wipe off the excess lube before my next ride. If using a wet lubricant, check with the manufacturers instruction on use. I no longer use degreaser which may degrade the lube. Once a month (more often if I ride in the rain or muck) I do a thorough cleaning with degreaser/soap and water/wipe down with clean cloth. Regards to Germany from the US and safe cycling, Tony
Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine (Also called Distilled Gum Turpentine. Sometimes called Pure Gum Turpentine). 100% Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine is distilled from pine bark resins to create a superior, natural thinner that has become the artist’s choice for thinning oils and art-grade paints. Turpentine improves bonding and penetration of most brush-applied alkyd and oil-type paints, varnishes, and enamels. Also used to clean brushes, rollers, spray equipment, and roller trays. Mineral spirits, also called ''white spirits,'' "paint thinner," or "turpenoid thinners" (trade names include Varnolene and Texaco spirits), is a petroleum distillate specifically manufactured as a substitute for turpentine. Most painters prefer it as a paint thinner because it costs less, is not so sticky and has a less offensive odor than turpentine. However, these mineral spirits contain additional petroleum ingredients and oils that may not evaporate and can interfere with chain lubricants. CAUTION: Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine is less dangerous or combustible then gasoline (petrol) and kerosine but can cause lung irritation when inhaled as well as skin irritation. Use only in a well-ventilated work shop and wear gloves. Keep all solutions covered when using.
You're welcome. Also see: ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand And visit our UA-cam home site at: ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed hi Tony, i tried your method and chain was clean. But I realise after riding it gets dirty real quickly (possibly from grime from chainring). Any advise you have to better clean the chainring? Thanks a lot.
@@UncleAT I doubt the dirt and grime is coming from the chainrings. It may be the lubricant you're using (all purpose lubricants and wet lubricants pick up a lot of grime and dirt as does some like Muck Off Dry Lube and some others). Muck Off Dry Lube turns the chain black after 1 or 2 rides but is suppose to shed the dirt (so they say). I've not had this problem with Finish Line Dry if used in dry conditions and you wipe off the excess the morning after application. If you ride in wet condition and use a wet lubricant, it's important to de-grease, wash and dry the drivetrain our moisture accumulates under the wet lubricant and rusts / corrodes the chain.
@@tony10speed thanks sir, forgot to add I’m also using the same lube, likewise, Finish Line dry lube. Now I’m thinking maybe i didn’t wash off degreaser as thorough as it should be, causing more mess. 🤔
@@UncleAT I no longer use degreaser to wipe off the superficial grime and grit. I use a very tiny bit of gum spirit distilled turpentine on a cloth (very tiny amount) or just a dry cloth to wipe the chain. The turpentine will evaporate by the time I finish. Degreaser will not evaporate, may interfere with chain lubricants and pick up dirt and grime.
There are many degreasers on the market. However, WD-40 is a degreaser but rather a water displacement fluid for cleaning leaving behind a small residual of oil. The oil, or lubricant, is very thin and does not stand up to other lubricants made for bicycle chains. It also may interact with subsequent lubricant you may use. The WD-40 "Degreaser" is made from a similar compound and is not one I would consider. The best degreasers are made specifically for the job such as Finish Line Citrus. Of interest, Simple Green (not the degreaser but the cleaner from the grocery or hardware store) works almost as well and is much cheaper. After using degreaser, one should scrub, wash with soap and water, rinse and dry the chain (and rest of the drivetrain if the chain is left on the bike). When that is complete, lubricant with a dry or wet lubricant by dropping it on the links (don't spray it on while the chains rotate on the cassette or you'll get the lubricant all over the drivetrain where it will pick up grime). Work the chain backwards after lubrication to work the lubricant into the rollers of the chain. Let it sit overnight so any solvent of the lubricant evaporate and wipe off any excess before you're next ride. I use only 2 lubricant, Finish Line Dry for dry conditions and Finish Line Wet for wet conditions (unless you like waxing your chain). There all purpose lubricants for both wet and dry conditions just pick up more grime as you ride and ones like the ceramic lubes are costly and I'm not sure are worth it. We will have a video on this in the coming weeks. As far as using other lubricants then those made specifically for bicycle chain, I did have one viewer write in that he used a combination of light motor oil mixed with another lubricant. I'll see if I can search and find that for you. Most other oils are just too thick and will pick up to much grime and grit from the road. Thanks for asking. Regards, Tony
The best advice on drivetrain cleaning on youtube in about 3 minutes. Period. No time wasting, no fancy tools, no BS. Way to go grandpa!
A true teacher would never tell you what to do. But he would give you the knowledge with which you could decide what would be best for you to do.”
― Christopher Pike, Sati
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
The easiest video I’ve seen on here to clean my chain and drivetrain. Thank you!! My bicycle thanks you!!!
If you want to make some substitutions to the way this is done, see:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Best advice always comes from old men. Other youtube videos made by younger gentlemen are always time wasters.
Knowledge comes from experience. Few recognize as you do. How you deal with that knowledge is called "wisdom." Thank you for the complement. Regards, Tony
He’s not “old”, he’s probably in better shape than a lot of “younger” men. You could instead say “older”.
@@jimwatchyyc oh boy
What a stupid take lmao
@@xXTrYhArrdXx ikr sometimes old people don’t know everything. My grandpa said I shouldn’t clean it and only a technician should do it. Waste of money.
"For me every 150-200 miles, for you maybe just once a week." That had me rolling, nice subtle flex :) Great video, short and sweet (like my bike rides lol).
Glad it was of help. Keeps my bike it top performance and makes the chain last much longer. Regards, Tony
I have not done mine in 2 years 🙃
@@ATAHUALPA867 I like to keep my bike at top performance and want my chain and drivetrain to last as long as possible, but that's just me. I know some individual will just let things go until everything is severely worn and then replace the chain, cassette, and chain rings. Each onto their own.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
ATAHUALPA867 I am going to follow your lead. 😄
NOTE: I now use just a very tiny drop of turpentine on the cloth to wipe down the surface grit on the chain and then let the turp evaporate (for a few minutes) as I clean the rest of the drive train. Then re-lubricate placing one drop on each roller. I mostly use a dry lube and leave that overnight to let the solvent evaporate before I wipe off the excess lube before my next ride.
If using a wet lubricant, check with the manufacturers instruction on use.
I no longer use degreaser which may degrade the lube. Once a month (more often if I ride in the rain or muck) I do a thorough cleaning with degreaser/soap and water/wipe down with clean cloth.
I do a quick clean of the chain and then drop lubricant on each chain link (yes, it does take a few seconds longer then just spraying lubricant on the chain). After wiping off the excess lubricant on the chain, there's still enough to lubricate the cassette and chain rings as you run through the gears. Spaying more lubricant on the the cassette and chainrings tends to pick up dirt and grime from the road, and actually increase wear chain, cassette and chainring wear and decreases the life of the drivetrain.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Sorry for not understanding. Do you use the turp after degreasing so that the degreaser is removed by the turp? Or you don't use any degreaser at all? Thanks in advance. I find your videos very useful.
@@Sudipto17Kolkata I use turpentine for quick cleanup, wipe off the excess and let it evaporate quickly. Then lubricate.
I don't use degreaser unless I'm going to wash my chain and drivetrain with soap and water (as I do with a thorough bike cleaning). Residual degreaser reacts and may neutralize chain lubricants making the lubricant ineffective. Degreasers need to be thoroughly washed off with soap and water.
Regards, Tony
@Fire Fox gamer GCN makes it look easy in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/q_EB-uW5WCc/v-deo.html
But I've worked on bikes where the chain is tightly wedged between the small chain ring and frame. I had to slowly work out each link by hand while applying pressure on the rear derailleur as in the above video. It takes some time but can be done. Some individuals turn the bike upside down and work out the chain with a screw driver of a multi-tool (but the multi-tool may damage the frame). It take much patience and the need to work slowly. As a last resort, have your bike shop remove the crank and chain rings from the bottom bracket. Once removed, the inner limiting screw probably needs adjustment. Also consider a "chain catcher" to keep this from happening (your bike shop can help you with this. Sorry I can't be of more help. Let me know if you can remove the chain. Regards, Tony
I just purchased my bike about month and half ago and I’m at 225 miles now. Thank you for the easy explaining video!! I’m gonna attempt this cause u made it look simple
Also see our follow up video for changes or additions to the quick cleanup:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
few months ago, when i`ve just started to ride, I would be really-really grateful if someone told me how to clean chain and cogs. very useful tips for newbies like me. thank you! thumb`s up!
We have another video on added tips to 2 minute cleanup. You may or may not want to make some substitutions if you find it helpful:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
You clean your bike the way I have done as a child, & still do to this day, if it's not broken DON'T fix it, my father lord was a bike mechanic & thought me this way, it also takes me back to the good times of doing it on a Saturday night getting ready for going off on the Sunday, even the smell of the oily rags>pure nostalgia & it set me up for a life time of seeing the world under your own steam 👌 keep doing what you do 👍
Meant to say lord have mercy on him
Sometimes the old fashion ways are the best. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I clean my drivetrain like you do, and also with the same exact products. What a coincidence.
Hi. I. Use. Cuboom. It. .a. Good. Job. But. GET. One. In. A. Blue. Dome. Dose. A. Better. Job. If. Have. A. New. Bike. And. Take. Good. Cair. Of. It. Spray. It on. When. The. Blue. Fades. Hose. It. Off. I. Have a. 1997. RALEIGH. M. 7000. It's. Like. New. And. It's. Four. Sale. IL try. To. Send a. Photo. Out. To. You
Thanks for not wasting mytime with this quick and easy to follow instructional. Cheers mate.
Thanks and cheers to you also. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed bless you!!!!
Excellent👌👌👍👍 From an 80 year old with a brand new Mountain Bike. Winston from Australia.
Thank you Wiinston. Glad your still out there enjoying the scenery and fun of cycling.
P.S. Also see our video below for changes/additions/substitutions in the Quick Clean video you may want to try:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
I’ve been intending to make a similar video for years, so thank you!
I’ve used lots of different chain lubes over the last 40+ years. Recently, I’ve been using a 5:1 mix of mineral spirits and 90 weight gear oil. It does a great job of cleaning and will last at least 300 miles, but I do it as often as you do.
I apply it with a small brush, backpedal the chain a few times and then remove as much as I can with a rag. Done!
One mistake a lot of people make is lubing their chain right before a ride. Most of these products are solvent based, so they need time for the solvent to evaporate before they can do their job. It’s better to apply the stuff after a ride than before one!
Thanks again!
Your combination of 5:1 mineral oil and 90 weight gear oil is an interesting idea which I will try. I do also agree with you about letting the solvent evaporate ahead of time before riding. I also clean my bike when I return from a ride (do a 2 minute cleanup unless I've been riding in the rain and muck in which case I'll wash down my bike, dry and re-lube) and then let the bike sits overnight until the next ride. You make some very good points. Thanks for the info which will help our viewers immensely. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony Marchand
You are right about doing a more thorough cleanup after a wet ride. The worst part is the grit that gets on the brake pads. It becomes a rim grinder that you can hear. I hate that sound!
After riding in the rain, I use a small wire brush on the brake pads and pick out any embedded grit. I then wash off the rims (which will have a lot of dark gray dust on it - that’s aluminum dust that was basically wet-sanded off the rim). I use an old kitchen scrubbing sponge that has lost its aggressive bite to scrub the rims.
If you want the bike to look it’s best, remember to wipe the spokes, too!
@@trackie1957 you can also use a file on the brake pads, works better than a wire brush. :)
@@tony10speed
Tony, I use mineral spirits, not mineral oil!
Thanks Tony. Your the dad I never had. Keep up these videos
"There's knowledge and then there's wisdom. Wisdom is knowing how to apply knowledge."
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Excellent vid, sir. I'm a clean freak, so I will clean after every ride, cassette, chain rings, etc. That way it never needs a major clean.
Depending on how much you ride and the conditions you ride in, a quick clean after every other ride or after riding in wet conditions seems to suit my purposes. I now use some turpentine on a cloth and let it evaporate for a few hours or overnight before re-lubing as noted in my comment below. Nothing like a sparkling bike which shifts well and is quit. Regards, Tony
Great tips. I do this every week, and love the quietness/smoothness of the drivetrain; also the chain lasts longer, mine is 3000 kilometer and counting (I check for chain wear after cleaning).
I also do this weekly or every 150 miles (which ever comes first) and it does, in my experience, improve performance as well as the life of the drivetrain. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Never thought to floss the cassette while it's still on the bike like that, I normally remove the wheel. I'll have to give it a try!
AGREED. GOOD IDEA
Wow! This is almost the same thing I used to do for a long time and which came with experience. Except that I take off the chain everytime to wash it in benzine (quick link chain). I simply put it into a tight container with a double bottom which has many holes in it and shake for a minute or two. The main amount of dirt and tiny waste pieces of metal concentrate below the chain remaining it really clean. I take the chain out, let benzine dry out, sometimes I warm up the chain with a hair dryer and then lubricate. And yes, the same operations with towel :)
What do you do with the rest of the benzine? Do you reuse it? I ask because benzine is not very environmentally friendly. A note on the quick link (master link): KMC now makes reusable master links (one must note the number of times you can remove and replace the link before enough wear occurs that may cause damage and have your chain come apart). One can get a reusable KMC master link for almost any speed that will match your chains manufacturer.
Thanks Pako, Tony
This is a great video and I appreciate that it's straight to the point. Although one recommendation I would make is to use a long skinny brush to get deeper into the cassette
We will be publishing a new video with some suggestions such as yours and few others that will make the job even easier. Stay tuned. Regars, Tony
Simple, informative and direct to the point. Great video. Thanks.
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
So glad I found this channel
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony for the video, your technique worked like a charm on my neglected chain and drive train for my road bike. Now to do the same to my very old Mt bike that I converted to a commuter some years ago.
Glad to hear it. Regards, and safe riding, Tony
You remind me of a guy I met who I bought some tools from off Craigslist. We went in the basement were he had the tools and his basement looked like a bike shop. He musta had over 10 bikes hanging from the floor joists, and a bunch of weights too. He said they were all his. Plus, there were more in his garage. I think he said these were going to be sold. Dude had alot of cool toys
It's a passion.
Thanks Tony. Just began my cycling and mountain biking journey. This helps a ton as I’m not on riding trails but now commuting to work on a daily basis.
The "Quick 2 min Clean Up" is really meant for road cycling. Mountain bikes require a lot more cleaning depending on the trail conditions. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed I spent a little longer than 2 minutes but some of your technique definitely applied. If this is a road cyclist only channel I can unsubscribe.
@@corpsesage6394 If you're commuting to work on a road bike or mountain bike, we think these videos will help. Regards, Tony
Thank you Tony...all the way from Sri Lanka! That was helpful.
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
You make it look as simple as it should be. Thanks.
It is. Thanks. Also see the following video in case you want to make some changes or additions:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Great video Tony. I'd love to see you do a thorough cleaning/maintenance video for a bike that has sat for a while or just needs a good once over.
What you are talking about is a yearly overhaul. It's quite a bit to put into a single video but take a look at our maintenance schedule (especially the "Once or Twice a Year" and "Yearly" that we use:
sites.google.com/site/bicyclemaintenancerepair/
Regards, Tony
Thanks for this great video. I replace my chain and cassette so often that I did not care much about cleaning. But the cogs get grime often that I use a flat screwdriver to remove the thick stuff before lubing my chain. A clean drivetrain looks and feels so much better. Your video is quick and I don't have to remove the chain and bother with that hassle.
Here's another video with some additions/changes to our 2 minute quick drivetrain clean up that you may want you to use:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Thanks for the compliment. Regards, Tony
Thanks. I used to be scared of derailleur due to maintainance but not anymore.
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great video as always, thank you! I love the Gear Floss ropes for cassette cleaning because you can get between the gear teeth as well as the sides. I also use an air compressor to clean the chain- give it a blast into a rag, then lubricate. Gets off all the little grit that a brush and rag leaves behind.
You also may be interested in our other video:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
By the way, what type/model air compressor do you use (I'm looking for one myself)? Regards, Tony
Tony Marchand
It’s a quite old one that a friend let me have, so sorry I can’t help with a recommendation. Forgot to mention I primarily use Tri Flow spray to both clean and lubricate the chain. Spray directly on chain with rag behind it.
@@stevetatge5064 Thanks Steve and safe cycling, Tony
Nice video Tony! I never throw out an old T shirt without cutting out the collar. It works great for flossing between the cogs while the bike is on a work stand. The rest of the shirt can be used for rags. I wipe my chain and drive train clean every 2 or 3 rides but I lube it a little differently than you. I put the bike on a stand horizontally and drip lube every roller, not from the top but from the side I let it sit for an hour or two, and then wipe off any excess. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for the tips! What do you mean from the "side" not the "top?' Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed When you are in the riding position, and you look down at the chain, I call that the top of the chain. When you've fallen down, from your cleats not disengaging and your bike is laying on the side, I call that the side of the chain. There are 2 lubricating pivots on each link that I touch with the drip lube. Thanks again.
I should have said the chain pins. (not pivots)
@@alg4943 Applying lubricate on the sides of each roller (to lubricate the pin and plate) is surely the ideal. Unfortunately, most of us don't take the added time. Regards, Tony
Thank you. Very thorough and concise.
Helped me so much as a newcomer to cycling world.
You're welcome. Note my "pinned" comment on using a tiny drop of turpentine instead of degreaser. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Very nice,simple and straight to the point video!!! I was searching for a good detailed video on how to clean and online a bike chain...found everything I needed to know in this video.Great job!
Thanks. If you want to make some additions or substitutions to this quick cleanup, see our video:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
You can substitute what's comfortable for you and works the best.
Regards, Tony
Good video,,, i clean my chain and sprockets in a similar manner, I ride MTB in Arizona with alot of dust/dirt requiring a daily cleaning after each ride. I have a tip that i can add, besides following the steps shown in the video, after adding degreaser to a rag or old towel, and before adding lube ( i use dry lube) for Arizona... i take a cotton ear swab and for chains that are 9 sp thru 12 spd, the ear swab fits snuggly between each link and insert / clean each link. I can cleanout alot of gunk and debris,this way. it doesnt take long and i usually go thru 2 or 3 ear swabs on a chain cleaning....Keep riding! - on a clean chain that is!!
Thanks for the tip. Some individuals use a shoe lace to run between the links. I, myself, prefer a long bristled brass brush (available at your local hardware store or on Amazon). I hold it on the chain and run the chain backward. Quick and easy. See:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html
Regards, Tony
Never comment on videos but I love this man
Thanks. We try our best to give you something different but helpful. Regards, Tony
Thank you sir for your short but precise video, no bs..... looking forward to watch your vids... have a great day!
I appreciate that! Regards, Tony
The most amazing about this video was the rag didn't get all nound up in the chain. Thanks for the tips
Some old tee shirts are better then others. Cotton undershirts don't work at all. You can also use a pipe cleaner to clean the cassette, but it must be an 18 mm pipe cleaner (from Amazon). We'll show you on an upcoming video. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you sir i will try the t shirt and if i dont succeed I will get the pipe cleaners
The most simple and easy way to clean the chain ..i did always this way.
Then you're spot on. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Quick and simple overview. Helpful.
Also see our following video for additional tips if desired:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
You are awesome, Sir Tony
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the tips. I don't let the lube sit over night. I do however let the chain dry over night after washing my whole bike. I guess I'll let the lube set in and see how that goes.
It's not necessary to let it sit overnight (although if I have time, I do let it sit). You have the right idea in making sure everything is dry after washing. Regards, Tony
Merci, Tony ! J'y vais maintenant !
Great tutorial Tony. Would you also brief us after the job is done, how to clean all the greasy tool, cloth, sponge, brush, gloves and container for reuse?
Great question! I'm working on that video now, so stay tuned. Regards, Tony
Great video! Iv started following your steps when cleaning the rear cogs... so easy to keep clean now! Thank you!
Glad to help. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Excellent video! This helped me out a lot, thank you
Glad it helped. Note: I now use a very tiny bit of turpentine on the cloth to wipe the superficial grime off the chain, use a soft brass brush to get the grime out between the chain links, wipe the chain till clean and work on wiping down the rest of the drive train. When I finish, I wait a few minutes of any superficial turps to evaporate and come back to lubricate the chain (on line at a time so as not to get lubricant on rim or disc brakes or wheel rim) and then wipe off the excess lubricant.
Regards, Tony
Thanks Tony, that's the way and simple way to do it, I like it and I'm doing it right now, take care and greetings from Boston Mass
As noted in the comments, I now use just a tiny drop to turpentine on the cloth instead of degreaser when I wipe the chain (since it evaporates quickly). You can also use a pipe cleaner (must be 18 mm wide from Amazon) for the cassette. Regards, Tony
Thank you for showing your ways!
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Brilliant Tony!
Thanks. Note my pinned comment. Also some lubricants (such as Finish Line Dry and ProLink) should be allowed to "dry" overnight to allow evaporation of the solvent and then the excess wiped off before your next ride. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Woops. I just sprayed degreaser, scrubbed the chain and drivetrain with a bristle brushed it a few times and rinsed it off. Then again it did get the job done.
That should work well. Be sure to dry the chain off (wipe it, then let it a bit) before re-lubrication. Regards, Tony
Thank you, sir. Simple and good advice.
Glad you found it useful. Regards, Tony
great video. clear, easy, and answered my question
Thanks. Please note the change I've pinned about using a drop of turpentine on a cloth to wipe off superficial grease rather then degreaser.
Thanks for this quick and very informative video.
You're welcome. Please note my "pinned" comment about using turpentine instead of degreaser. Regards, Tony
thanks for this vlog..as this topic was i am looking for..safe ride sir..😷🚲
Always welcome
Thanks for the quick clean tips
You're welcome. You can also use a pipe cleaner to "floss" the cassette. If you do, use 18 mm ones from Amazon. Just bend one around the top of the cog, turn the pedal, then move on to the next cog. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I have been using the cloth method for many years.
Thanks for the instructions!
Thanks. Also see our accompanying video:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
I hope tony is still fine thank you for the tutorial
I am doing well. Just got back from a 42 mile ride through the hills of Kingwood, NJ. Regards, Tony
Grandpa knows best
Anyone can acquire knowledge, but wisdom comes with age. Thanks for viewing and safe cycling, Tony
Top video .briliant.thanks for sharing.👍👍👍
Thank you 👍
Tony, someone had referenced WD-40 in an earlier comment. Just wanted to mention that WD-40 makes a specific bike chain degreasing product, an aerosol spray foam. I've been using it for over a year now, and it works great. But I absolutely appreciate the tips on the brass bristle brush for the chain, and the "flossing" method for the cassette. Makes a ton of sense!
I am familiar with the WD-40 Bike Degreaser. Of interest is that the main ingredient is a compound with the same qualities as that of regular WD-40 (my undergraduate chemistry BA comes in handy). Both these compounds are mainly for "water displacement" leaving a small amount of residual lubricant that doesn't last very long. It may work for you, but your drivetrain will wear more then if you use other cleaners.
For a quick clean, I now use a dab of turpentine on a cloth, wipe off superficial dirt and grime, brush, wipe again till the rag is clean, let sit a bit until the turps has evaporated and then re-lubricate (all in 2-3 minutes). For a thorough cleaning about once every other month, I use Finish Line Orange degreaser, brush it on the chain, cassette and chainrings. Scrub it with a stiff brush and then wash it down with soap and water. Then spray with water and wipe dry. Now, when dry, re-lubricate. Your chain and drivetrain will last a lot longer and your bike will preform better with the quick clean and periodic thorough wash. I, myself, stay away from the new WD-40 Bike, but that's just my thoughts for what they're worth.
Regards, Tony
Excellent information! Thank you!
You're welcome. Regards, Tony
Been doing this after every ride since i started in the mid 80's...👍
That's impressive. I only do this about every 140 miles (that's about every 3 rides). Does this decrease chain and cassette wear? How many miles can you get out of a chain (and cassette) before either needs replacement?
@Dizzy Assklown That's constancy ! Same question as above : any noticeable effect on cogs ans chain wear ?
@@vtrvr511 I, personally, find the chain and drive chain last twice as long (if not more) with consistent cleaning as shown in the video. Tony
What I've learned from bike maintenance videos is that I need a bike workstand 😄
If you're doing your own maintenance, a good stand will pay for its self, so don't go with the cheap models which aren't worth the money. If you are working on a road bike, consider either the Park PCS 10.2 or the Bikehand Repair Stand. If you have a mountain bike or Ebike, you're going to need something more sturdy and will have to look around. Read the reviews carefully and make sure there is some type of warranty or that you can return the stand if it does not work for you. I use an old park non fold-able stand that is about 25 years old - all metal and no plastic. But they just don't make them like they use to (but that can be said for many of today's products).
Let me know what you pick out and how it works for you.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed Haha thanks for the info. Ive been doing small repairs here and there on my roadbike and now that my LBS is swamped with Covid riders Ive been really getting hands on with my bike repairs. Thanks for the info and great videos. I will definitely look into the models you suggested.
@@volcom05345 until you get yourself a proper one, you can use your ironing table as a placeholder. You put your bike's top tube perpendicular on top of the front part of the ironing table and voila, your bike is in the air for minor adjustments/cleanings. :)
@@gruby0102 Oh ok cool thanks
Hi... It's super helpfull. Thanks. I bought a new bike few days ago. Can you give some advices for maintenance?
See our maintenance schedule:
docs.google.com/document/d/1J9w2t1iXL5MH3lrCah3FzPDJ1n_yabjjXwLA3fw4rc8
Also see our playlist:
ua-cam.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/v-deo.html
If you have a question on any of the videos in the maintenance playlist, just comment and I'll get back to you.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Just had a bike technician suggest that for the oil, that the bike comes out of the factory from, (which is some sort of translucent grease) I do not need to use a decreaser and I can just apply new lube after a wipe
This is one of the few times I disagree with the manufacturers recommendations. The thick oil coating on new chains is to prevent rust and corrosion. It's very sticky and will pick up much road dirt and grime causing increased chain wear. It may also subsequently interfere with any chain lubricant you add. Many mechanic, including myself, favor removing the grease coating with degreaser, then wash and dry the chain. Add new lubricant when placed on the bike. Turn the crank so the lubricant get into all the links, bushings and pins. Allow the new lubricant to sit overnight to soaks in and wipe off the excess the next morning. I have also used Pure Distilled Turpentine and soaked the chain overnight. Then wipe it off the next morning and hang the chain to dry. Removes most of the thick oil although not as good as degreaser.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hello there Tony from the Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic and thank you so much for your videos!! they are super helpful. :)
I have some questions if you would be so kind:
1.- When you apply the degreaser, I see that you did not wash it off with soapy water as I have seen in other videos (new to cycling) so trying to figure out how to do things. Is this all right to leave it on before lubing the chain with dry lube?
2.- I live in tropical climate, and there is a a lot of salt in the air from the sea here, the sea is just 10 mins away from my home. I use dry lube as I ride on pavement on my commutes. This was recommended to me by my bike mechanic. If let's say I clean my cassette (sparkling), chain etc with something like paint thinner instead of degreaser and then lube my chain, won't the cassette rust because of being exposed to the air? or do I have to shift each gear after I lube in order to make sure there is a film of chain lube protecting each gear? Hope I am explaining myself correctly, if not just let me know.
3.- Can I apply a small amount of paint thinner / turpentine to the cloth and use that to floss clean, make my cassette shiny? mine is black at the moment.
Thanks again for spreading the knowledge :)
PS: I live in a 4th floor walk-up so don't have quick access to have water and soap running... Can do it down stairs but that entails more setup and looking for a way to keep my maintenance of drivetrain, essentials especially as sometimes I have gotten rained on. would like to have the bike running silently and f there is a way to avoid water and soap for the drivetrain, chain, rings clean up / maintenance would appreciate it. :)
This quick method is only weekly when riding in dry conditions.
1. I use a very tiny drop of pure gum turpentine (if none is available, just use a dry cloth). Then wipe the chain with a dry part of the cloth. What's left on the chain will quickly evaporate. If you use degreaser or if the bike is wet with grime, yes, you should wash of the chain with soap and water.
2. I just wipe down the cassette to remove grime and dirt. It should not need degreaser and, when clean, should not rust. HOWEVER, living by the ocean, the salt conditions change everything. Washing (or at least rinsing) and thoroughly drying the bike and drivetrain followed by lubrication of the chain (be sure to wipe off the excess after lubrication) is probably the best way of preventing rust. Using lubricant on the cassette and chainrings will only attract more grime and salt from the road. Salt is a real bike killer and keeping your bike from rusting is a real challenge. When storing the bike, keep in inside or somewhere dry.
3. You can floss the cassette with pure gum turpentine (very tiny amount on a cloth). I don't use paint thinner which, as opposed to pure gum turpentine, contains a small amount of petroleum by products (oil) that will attract dirt/salt and may interfere with subsequent chain lubricants.
Without access to water to wash your bike and remove any salt, it becomes a real challenge to prevent rust. You can get a garden sprayer to at least rinse the bike and drivetrain quickly and wipe it down to help remove the salt. See our video:
ua-cam.com/video/J8UreIp7ypI/v-deo.html
I hope this addresses some of your question. Thanks for the comment and if any of our viewers have other ideas, please let us know. Regards, Tony
Thanks Tony. Just wanted to know - Would just lubricating the chain without cleaning it first be better than not lubricating it at all? I know the proper way is to clean it first but just wanted to find the answer to this question.
You really need to wipe the chain first. If you don't have Pure Gum Turpentine, just wipe the chain with a clean cloth, lubricate, pedal backward to work the lubricant into the chain, then wipe off the excess. Finding an old rag, old t-shirt or even paper towel to wipe the chain should not be hard. Don't let the chain go without lubricant and don't just keep adding more lubricant which will mix with the dirt and grime already there and increase the chain wear. Do it right and you'll note improved bike performance and longer lasting chain and bike components.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony: I am interested in the stand you are using here to get the back wheel that distance off the floor. Can you provide details on the stand?
It's a 30 year old all metal stand from Park Tool with a special addition that allow you to work on a bike while standing or sitting on a stool. It has a very heavy sheet of metal as a base to make it very sturdy. Unfortunately, this quality stand is no longer made and has been replaced with others, that, although adjustable in height, now have plastic parts and are not as sturdy as the old ones were. I've been looking at todays bike stands and have yet to come up with a recommendation. I would love to hear from our viewer.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed That's exactly what I want...something where I can stand or sit and not have to worry about upsetting a delicate bike balancing act. And also handle the weight of my ebike. I spent a good hour today looking at bikestand youtube videos and I'm not impressed with any of them.
Very well done!
Thanks. Please note my "pinned" comment about using a tiny drop of turpentine (which will evaporate quickly) to remove surface grime. Regards, Tony
Hello there Tony! I ride Lappiere with aluminium frame and I had an old steal bike but now I got real road bike and I was really thinking about cleaning the chain and chain rings, but I was not quite sure how to do it properly and this video and tutorial you made was a great and really helpful to me! You deserve my like and subscribe! God bless you Tony! Keep up the good work!
FYI: See my comment below about using turpentine on the cloth and then letting the turp evaporate before applying lube. Thanks for the compliment. Regards, Tony
Hi, awesome tips. I see your bike has a nice tire clearance, it makes it very versatile. Pretty neat. Id put some 28s, fenders and make it an all around (commute/training) machine.
I have done that with one of my other bikes. Put on 700c x 32 which makes it great for commute, riding on canal toe path and more. Regards, Tony
It is that easy , good job
Thanks. Also see our video:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
great video short and usefull
Also see our companion video:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Thanks and regards, Tony
Hello, this video ages well. :) Thanks for the valuable tip. Do U have video on adjusting derailleurs? Thanks!
Here is one from a few years ago:
ua-cam.com/video/J_bGEZky02k/v-deo.html
For more advanced adjustments, see Calvin Jones of Park Tools:
ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html
Regards, Tony
THanks for this post. Could you post links where I could get the lube? Will this process work for any bike gear/cassette?
Since I ride in dry conditions (and avoid the rain and wet), I use Finish Line Dry which is available at your local bike store, many on-line bicycle stores as well as Amazon:
www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Lubricant-Teflon-Squeeze/dp/B00Z779GMO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3SYIEA33YCODH&keywords=finish%2Bline%2Bdry%2Bbike%2Blubricant&qid=1652042135&sprefix=finishline%2Bdry%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjVJWk85UkpMM0FYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODc5Njk2Mzc0QjgwWUFRMFRCMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTc2NTYzMkNRN1A1OVVJR1dNVCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
But for every chain lubricant out there, you'll find die hard advocates. The choice is up to you and the conditions you ride in. But the "Quick 2-minute Drivetrain Clean and Lubrication" process is the same for whatever lubricant you use (unless you desire to wax your chain as many do in the UK) and almost all bicycles including mountain bikes. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony - a great video ! thanks for helping others - Question, should there ever be grease on the casette cogs ? My brand new Giant Hybrid Roam 2 came with quite a lot on it ! I take it there shouldnt be grease on the cogs, and we should just be using oil on the chain ?
You are correct that you should be lubricating just the chain (which will allow it to slide over the teeth of the cogs). Any grease covering the cassette will just pick up dirt and grime causing wear to the entire drive train. See
Quick 2 minute cleanup:
ua-cam.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
How to Lubricate Your Bicycle Chain:
ua-cam.com/video/ubKCHtZ20-0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Easy and affective Thanks
You may also be interested in the following video if you want to make some changes or substitutions to the Quick 2 minute clean up:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Thanks @Tony Marchand for this efficient method. I was wondering : any reason to coat the lube directly on the chain ? I'm used to coat the lube on the cassette and on the crank rings, and then rotate in order to lubricante the chain.
I do a quick clean of the chain and then drop lubricant on each chain link (yes, it does take a few seconds longer then just spraying lubricant on the chain). After wiping off the excess lubricant on the chain, there's still enough to lubricate the cassette and chain rings as you run through the gears. Spaying more lubricant on the the cassette and chainrings tends to pick up dirt and grime from the road, and actually increase wear chain, cassette and chainring wear and decreases the life of the drivetrain. Regards, Tony
There are many videos about cleaning the drive train and then lubing your chain with hot wax mixed with PTFE. The results are amazing as the wax does not attract dirt. I think the Brits started this method, but it's taken hold everywhere. Some of the better chain lubes have a carrier that dries out and leaves PTFE on the chain.....so the lube makers are trying to get you there the easy way.
Waxing your chain, at least in my opinion, is a cumbersome task (I use to do this regularly and it works as you say). Heating and handling hot wax is not my thing. Removing the remaining wax after most is worn off requires petrol before re-waxing. Also not my thing. But if you don't mind the procedure, it does a great job. There are several lubricants out there that dry to leave PTFE behind. One is Dri Lube Bike Lubricant with Syncolon. I currently use Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube applied to each link, let it soak in for an hour and wipe off the excess. It is not as good as waxing but seems to be an easy alternative. I wipe down the chain, re-lubricate and wipe off the excess about every 120 - 150 miles. Thanks and regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Interesting take on this, thanks. Yes, there are products now that have a carrier that dries and leaves the PTFE. However, in actual road use, unlike a waxed chain, you can run a rag over the chain and it comes off black. Mostly the rag wipes clean with the wax. And yes, the wax is certainly a 'process'. I'm on the fence on this......
@@TheReal1953 You can try it but take warning: dealing with hot wax is dangerous. Removing the remaining wax and grit after the wax has begun to wear off is also not an easy task. See:
ua-cam.com/video/9x8JTUa_hZU/v-deo.html It's also time consuming and I rather be out cycling, but that's just my humble opinion.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed True, very time consuming. The waxers would argue though that they get more miles between chain cleaning than an other lube. I rotate through three bikes, so actual chain wear for me isn't as bad as having one main bike.
great video !
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
It's even more important with darn emtbs. They take much more wear, more riding kilometers and invite user to have insane fun in woods for hours. So that's my routine more or less 3 times a week. I learned to do it and know it takes no time. Why don't you use delubricant?
If one uses degreaser, it needs to be washed from the drivetrain and chain with soap and water, then rinsed off and the drivetrain needs to be allowed to dry before lubrication. Any residual degreaser will not evaporate and may interfere with any chain lubricant one uses. For my 2 minute drivetrain cleanup, I use either a dry cloth or add a very tiny bit of turpentine to the cloth to wipe off the superficial grease and grime from the chain, wipe down the rest of the drive train with a dry cloth, and, by the time I'm finished, what little turpentine I've used has evaporated. I can now re-lubricate the chain. If there's significant dirt and mud, I'll use degreaser, wash with soap and water, rinse, dry and then lubricate.
great video thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching. I do a quick clean (now using a tiny drop of turpentine on the cloth which will evaporate rapidly and not interfere with any lubricant I use) every 150 or so miles and a thorough cleaning with degreaser followed by washing down my bike and then re-lubricating about every other month depending on the conditions I ride in. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the video :). Just wondering, can usung the decreaser to clean before oiling the chain affect the lubrication of the oil?
I assume not much decreaser will be left on the parts anyway since the rag is used and will wipe it back into the rag along with the dirt.
I use a tiny drop of Pure Gum Turpentine which will easily evaporate. If you have no Turpentine, just use a clean cloth. Degreaser needs to be washed off with soap and water since it will not completely evaporate and may interfere with may bicycle lubricants. I also don't use Mineral Spirits since they contain additional petroleum products that will interfere with subsequent lubrication.
I will sometimes use degreaser if I'm going to wash the chain/bike with soap and water, rinse, and wipe dry.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks so much for the reply Tony. I don't have turpentine at the moment but would isopropyl alcohol work? Also can I use it around the other parts of drivetrain besides the chain only. Also can i spray the I.P. Alcohol/turpentine directly onto the chain/drivetrain?
If I can't use isopropyl alcohol I'll buy some turpentine. Thanks :)
You can use isopropyl alcohol on a cloth and wipe down the chain. I would not use a spay since it's hard to control where it goes. Isopropyl on a cloth is my preference. You really don't want to get any solvent into the hubs bearings, freehub, or pulley bearings. If the drivetrain is really dirty, you may need degreaser carefully applied to the drivetrain and avoiding the bearings & disc brake pads , washing the bike with soap and water, rinse and dry.@@7798chrisd
@tony10speed Thanks so much. Just to clarify - the I.P. alcohol/turpentine applied to the cloth is for the chain only. (You clean the rest of the drive train with a dry cloth/no chemicals)?
Thanks mate. Chris from Australia 🇭🇲
@@7798chrisd Yes. Unless your chain and drivetrain are very dirty in which case you'll need to wash everything down with soap and water, rinse and dry.
Question I dont have that type of grease but I have pb blaster I've used it before works great but was wondering if I should be using it or not
PB Blaster makes specific bicycle chain cleaners and lubricants. However, if you're talking about the regular PB Blaster Penetrating Oil and rust remover, I would not use that as a chain cleaner of lubricant. The chain is probably shot unless you deep clean it and get all of the penetrating oil out of the chain. PB Blaster penetrates way deeper than something like WD40 and will displace any lube you add to it unless it's completely removed with a thorough washing (which still may not remove all the penetrating oil). I would stick with degreasers and lubricants made specifically for bicycles. With that said, some have used Kerosene with some success. Anyone have any other ideas or suggestions? Regards, Tony
Great informative explanation. Do you put any liquid on the cassette or only on the chain?
I just clean and lubricate the chain, wiping off the excess lubrication. There always remains a small amount of lubricant on the chain, even after wiping almost all visible traces off the chain, that lubricates the teeth of the cassette cogs. Adding additional lubricant to the cassette cogs just results in picking up more dirt and grime from the road. At least that's what I have found. I don't use spray lubricant which gets all over everything and picks up a lot of dirt. Rather, I drop lubricant on each link of the chain slowly and carefully, let it sit, then wipe off the excess. Regular cleaning of the whole drivetrain including the chainrings, cassette cogs, derailleur pulley wheels and cleaning / lubrication of the chain (wiping of the excess lubricant) can make the chain and other parts of the drivetrain last much longer the otherwise. How often depends on how much you ride. For me, I clean and lubricate every 150 miles or after riding in the rain or muck. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks for answering. I followed your video and cleaned it yesterday. I had a ride this morning and I can feel the difference.
So thanks a million.
does the residual degreasing compound that is left on the drivetrain (or elsewhere) have any negative effects (incl. e.g. penetration into sealed bearings, etc.)?
(i'm in part thinking of a scenario whereby i might choose to spray the degreaser on both groups of sprockets and jockey wheels).
In our Quick 2 min Bike Drivetrain Cleaning, we use a very tiny drop of Pure Gum Turpentine to wipe the chain (or clean cloth if Turpentine is not available). Then use a dry clean cloth for the rest of the drivetrain. The Turp on the chain will quickly evaporate (use in well ventilated area only). I do not use degreaser, especially a spray degreaser which will get onto the wheel rim (rim brakes) or disc rotor/pads. Degreaser interferes with many of the common bike lubricants we use and needs to be washed off. If used, degreaser should be washed off with soap and water and rinsed away. Degreasing your drivetrain is over-rated. In most cases, do a quick clean as in the video or, if your bike is very dirty, wash with soap and water, use a brush that will fit between the sprockets of the cassette and rinse, dry, lubricant. Please don't use a spray degreaser (it can also get into the wheel/hub bearings or jockey wheels and remove any grease necessary for proper lubrication).
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony, it looks like you are using Finish Line Citrus degreaser(?) Does it have to be rinsed off?
No, I'm using a very tiny drop of pure gum turpentine. I then wipe the chain dry and let it evaporate while I wipe the chainrings, pulley wheels and cassette with a dry part of the cloth. Finally lubricate the chain, work it in by turning the crank backward, let it sit and wipe excess lubricant from the chain. If I used degreaser, yes, I would want to wash it off with soap and water. Thanks for your observations and safe cycling, Tony
What if we don't have specialized bicycle chain lube. What should we use that most people have in the garage? WD 40, TriFlo 3m oil? Graphite? What?
Here are some interesting alternatives and their pros and cons:
pedalchile.com/blog/bicycle-chain-lubes
Regards, Tony
Great! I threw some water over my cassette after cleaning it & destroyed the freehub tick tick tick
Very useful.. Thanks 👍👍👍
Your welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
This my first video that watch and I love it,I can really understand.Is it possible to get turpentine online.
Probably not. However, many just use a clean cloth without any additives to wipe the grime and grit off the chain. May take just bit longer to get the superficial grime off, but the turpentine is not an absolute necessity and then you don't have to worry about any residual interfering with the lubrication you use. With dry lubricants such as Finish Line and ProLink, I let them sit overnight (to let most of the solvent in the lubricant evaporate ) and wipe off the excess before my next ride. Regards, Tony
Hi Tony, great video...do you degrease the cassette before cleaning with a cloth? Thanks
No. Most of the wear on the cassette comes from wear of the chain, that is, as the rollers wear, the length between rollers increases in length. If the chain is not "worn," the rollers should easily glide over the cassette if the cassette has been wiped clean with a dry cloth. Placing degreaser or other liquids on the cassette will only pick up dirt and degrade any chain lubricant I use.
I now clean the superficial grime off the chain with a very tiny bit of turpentine (not degreaeser) on the cloth, then wipe, apply a soft brass brush to the chain to get and dirt out from between links, wipe the chain thoroughly with a DRY cloth. Now with a dry cloth, wipe the pulley wheels and chainrings. By the time I'm finished I'm ready to lubricate the chain. After lubrication, I run the chain backward to allow the lubricant to work it's way around the chain rollers. I then let it sit overnight (so the lubricant solvent evaporates ) and wipe off the excess lubricant the next day before my next ride.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony, much appreciated!
Wahh very quick and easy..
Also see our new video in case you want to make some additions/changes/substitutions:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html
Regards, Tony
Safe cycling... how cool
Thanks Paul. Regards, Tony
Do you all usually throw away the old rag/ shirt after one use? Or rinse it and re-use? Cause it cannot really be cleaned but such a waste to throw as well.
Here a video on that exact subject:
ua-cam.com/video/Kl7ZlFFpUps/v-deo.html
Let me know what you think. You can also buy cheap rags and cloths on ebay, enough to last a very long time. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hi can I follow the same procedure for a mountain bicycle gear set?? Thank you
Yes you can. It a quick clean up between bike washes. But, here in the north where we have lots of mud and dirt, I wind up most of the time hosing down the bike after a ride, wiping it down and using some new chain lube depending on the conditions I ride. Regards, Tony
Good , nice and awesome
Thanks. I clean and lubricate the drivetrain about every 150 mile (or just after I've been riding in the rain or wet muddy roads) and the chain lasts much longer then expected (same for the cassette and chain rings). Regards, Tony
Thanks from germany
NOTE: I now use just a very tiny drop of turpentine on the cloth to wipe down the surface grit on the chain and then let the turp evaporate (for a few minutes) as I clean the rest of the drive train. If not turpentine, just wipe the chain as clean as possible (you can use an old t-shirt). Then re-lubricate. I mostly use a dry lube and leave that overnight to let the solvent evaporate before I wipe off the excess lube before my next ride.
If using a wet lubricant, check with the manufacturers instruction on use.
I no longer use degreaser which may degrade the lube. Once a month (more often if I ride in the rain or muck) I do a thorough cleaning with degreaser/soap and water/wipe down with clean cloth.
Regards to Germany from the US and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed thank you, i will try the same for quick cleaning and i bought a chain cleaner from park tool for a deeper cleaning half a year maybe.
What KIND of turpentine is used? I found four different kinds in LOwe's and not sure which one is what you used.
Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine (Also called Distilled Gum Turpentine. Sometimes called Pure Gum Turpentine). 100% Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine is distilled from pine bark resins to create a superior, natural thinner that has become the artist’s choice for thinning oils and art-grade paints. Turpentine improves bonding and penetration of most brush-applied alkyd and oil-type paints, varnishes, and enamels. Also used to clean brushes, rollers, spray equipment, and roller trays. Mineral spirits, also called ''white spirits,'' "paint thinner," or "turpenoid thinners" (trade names include Varnolene and Texaco spirits), is a petroleum distillate specifically manufactured as a substitute for turpentine. Most painters prefer it as a paint thinner because it costs less, is not so sticky and has a less offensive odor than turpentine. However, these mineral spirits contain additional petroleum ingredients and oils that may not evaporate and can interfere with chain lubricants. CAUTION: Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine is less dangerous or combustible then gasoline (petrol) and kerosine but can cause lung irritation when inhaled as well as skin irritation. Use only in a well-ventilated work shop and wear gloves. Keep all solutions covered when using.
thank you sir, best cycling hack!
You're welcome. Also see:
ua-cam.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
And visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed hi Tony, i tried your method and chain was clean. But I realise after riding it gets dirty real quickly (possibly from grime from chainring). Any advise you have to better clean the chainring? Thanks a lot.
@@UncleAT I doubt the dirt and grime is coming from the chainrings. It may be the lubricant you're using (all purpose lubricants and wet lubricants pick up a lot of grime and dirt as does some like Muck Off Dry Lube and some others). Muck Off Dry Lube turns the chain black after 1 or 2 rides but is suppose to shed the dirt (so they say). I've not had this problem with Finish Line Dry if used in dry conditions and you wipe off the excess the morning after application. If you ride in wet condition and use a wet lubricant, it's important to de-grease, wash and dry the drivetrain our moisture accumulates under the wet lubricant and rusts / corrodes the chain.
@@tony10speed thanks sir, forgot to add I’m also using the same lube, likewise, Finish Line dry lube. Now I’m thinking maybe i didn’t wash off degreaser as thorough as it should be, causing more mess. 🤔
@@UncleAT I no longer use degreaser to wipe off the superficial grime and grit. I use a very tiny bit of gum spirit distilled turpentine on a cloth (very tiny amount) or just a dry cloth to wipe the chain. The turpentine will evaporate by the time I finish. Degreaser will not evaporate, may interfere with chain lubricants and pick up dirt and grime.
Thanks sir . I need to buy degreaser. For lube oil . Can I use wd40 or any other non bike oil ?.
There are many degreasers on the market. However, WD-40 is a degreaser but rather a water displacement fluid for cleaning leaving behind a small residual of oil. The oil, or lubricant, is very thin and does not stand up to other lubricants made for bicycle chains. It also may interact with subsequent lubricant you may use. The WD-40 "Degreaser" is made from a similar compound and is not one I would consider. The best degreasers are made specifically for the job such as Finish Line Citrus. Of interest, Simple Green (not the degreaser but the cleaner from the grocery or hardware store) works almost as well and is much cheaper. After using degreaser, one should scrub, wash with soap and water, rinse and dry the chain (and rest of the drivetrain if the chain is left on the bike). When that is complete, lubricant with a dry or wet lubricant by dropping it on the links (don't spray it on while the chains rotate on the cassette or you'll get the lubricant all over the drivetrain where it will pick up grime). Work the chain backwards after lubrication to work the lubricant into the rollers of the chain. Let it sit overnight so any solvent of the lubricant evaporate and wipe off any excess before you're next ride. I use only 2 lubricant, Finish Line Dry for dry conditions and Finish Line Wet for wet conditions (unless you like waxing your chain). There all purpose lubricants for both wet and dry conditions just pick up more grime as you ride and ones like the ceramic lubes are costly and I'm not sure are worth it. We will have a video on this in the coming weeks.
As far as using other lubricants then those made specifically for bicycle chain, I did have one viewer write in that he used a combination of light motor oil mixed with another lubricant. I'll see if I can search and find that for you. Most other oils are just too thick and will pick up to much grime and grit from the road.
Thanks for asking. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Tony thanks for responding. Will buy new brake pads and lube. You rock sir .
Cool video thank you.
Glad it was a help. Regards, Tony