Super instructional video. Not only did you present it in a manner that was easy to follow, but your narration had no stuttering of pauses. Very well presented!!!! I am going to save this video! Kudos and Thank you!
That was an outstanding instructional video! I learned a lot, especially the measurements of the ohms, the easy math equations, the wire gauge tool to get the correct size wire, the amount of windings needed for the armature, and the soldering. Well done!
Good video. Once the resistance and the wire gauge have been measured, the resistance of the wire, per foot can be found online, and used to calculate how many feet of wire to use. For this example, 1.6 ohms comes out to about 19.5 feet. At the end of the video, the measured resistance of 1.8 ohms works out to about 22.25 feet. Formula is Feet of wire = measured resistance in ohms / Resistance per foot of wire. Calculating this way should result in less wire left over.
@robertbailey942 good point taken. I was afraid of having the wire to short and I knew it was going to be overkill with my measuring system. I'll give this a try on my next armature. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I have wound allot of Lionel armatures many, many years ago. After watching your video I realized I was lucky that mine worked when I was done. Thanks for sharing you knowledge with us. You do nice work. I did subscribe.
Original readings were a bit lower. You must have selected one wire gauge smaller than original. Your motor will be bit slower RPM but the torque will be a bit more. You wold gain torque and RPM by using bigger wire, say .026 with the same number of turns. One would need to be neat in winding to fit in space and not throw of balance due to extra winding mass. Negative would be motor may run a bit hotter. Very good presentation.
I have a Lionel 6-18003 (1501) Lackawanna 4-8-4 steamer. In seeing your engine open I was wondering if I could use that more modern smoker in mine. The lob on the front axle just broke apart and now there is no simple way to make the smoke puff. I hate to have to pull the front drive wheels off just to replace a part, that I can guess, will crack off again. I was thinking a more modern fan driven one could work and I could place a leaf switch in front of the drive rod tips in the front cylinder, to activate.
Judging the space in mine it looks like a smoke unit can fit inside but you may have to do your own bracket. Others have done the same too with a cherry switch. The only issue is syncing the chuffed sound with the smoke output. I'm not sure what part you need but I found number 600-8404-052 smoke cam and 600-0746-033 smoke lever in my parts book if you decide to fix your engine.
Another great video. Dumb question though. I noticed that in another video that you used a tool aside from the multimeter to test the armature. Can you provide the information on that tool? Or did I miss it in that video? Any how great work & thank you for your time!
Thank you Steve. The other meter I'm using is the Supco M500 megometer (megger for short). I dont mention it in this video but i did use it in other videos and talk about what it does and how to set it up. It measures the resistance of the insulation of the wire, not the wire resistance. I explain it here in my ZW rebuild video. Go to time 4:45 ua-cam.com/video/qPZNaASE_lw/v-deo.html If you have any questions on it, let me know I'll answer to the best of my ability.
I didn’t understand why you were talking about total length of wire. I have rewound about fifty of these and just counted the number of turns.Yes direction has tone right. Also I have found that most of the time the commutator plate will not come off or it will break. The person that wrote that book is Bob Hannon real nice guy and he will help anybody and does sell the commutator.The book also has the right wire Hague number of turns and direction.
You must have tons of patience for rewinding that many armatures up to this point. It's a rewarding experience when you see your work operate. For me I measured out the wire in full length so I can wrap the wire over the segment by hand. This action causes the wire to curl up on itself and I have to straighten it out every so often but not to often. I've seen devices that spun the armatures to wind the magnetic wire on them, thats something I like to own without stringing out the wire and doing it by hand. Bob Hannons book is really helpful but I'm not familiar with the motor types in modern locomotives even if the design was used in a postwar locomotive. That's why I used a wire gauge. Other than that, I'll have no problems working on older locomotives.
You said that this armature was shorted, yet you measure all three of the sides and got the same resistance. If one coil was shorted you would get a much lower resistance read on the coil by it self. I have to assume you were testing a good motor armature for your understanding of what a good motor should be....
Yes the motor was shorted but to the segment. I pushed the wire aside into its field so I wouldn't get any false readings. I believe if I left the wire where it was, I still would have gotten the same readings. I should have left the wire in place and tried that theory. If I was to get a lower resistance reading on the Commutator plate, the varnish on the magnetic wire would have to rub away on itself creating a short on its own field thus lowering its resistive rating.
Super instructional video. Not only did you present it in a manner that was easy to follow, but your narration had no stuttering of pauses. Very well presented!!!! I am going to save this video! Kudos and Thank you!
@patrickmurphy6775 thank you Patrick
Very Good, You gave me a bunch of helpful and useful information. I'm looking to try this on some of my pre war engines.
That was an outstanding instructional video! I learned a lot, especially the measurements of the ohms, the easy math equations, the wire gauge tool to get the correct size wire, the amount of windings needed for the armature, and the soldering. Well done!
Thank you Tomz.
Brilliant video!
Good video. Once the resistance and the wire gauge have been measured, the resistance of the wire, per foot can be found online, and used to calculate how many feet of wire to use. For this example, 1.6 ohms comes out to about 19.5 feet. At the end of the video, the measured resistance of 1.8 ohms works out to about 22.25 feet. Formula is Feet of wire = measured resistance in ohms / Resistance per foot of wire. Calculating this way should result in less wire left over.
@robertbailey942 good point taken. I was afraid of having the wire to short and I knew it was going to be overkill with my measuring system. I'll give this a try on my next armature. Thanks for watching.
Superb rewire and enhancement. You just breathed new like into that locomotive 🚂..
Thanks Rich.
Great video. I have wound allot of Lionel armatures many, many years ago. After watching your video I realized I was lucky that mine worked when I was done. Thanks for sharing you knowledge with us. You do nice work. I did subscribe.
Thank you Jackstoy
Very nice work.
Thank you Thomas
Outstanding!
Going to try this myself thanks to your video, thank you!🤘
Your welcome. It is a rewarding experience.
Thats pretty darn cool
Thanks Ken, my exact thoughts when it ran for the first time.
I might need this in the future- thanks!
Your welcome Chicago. Let me know how your rewind goes.
Original readings were a bit lower. You must have selected one wire gauge smaller than original. Your motor will be bit slower RPM but the torque will be a bit more. You wold gain torque and RPM by using bigger wire, say .026 with the same number of turns. One would need to be neat in winding to fit in space and not throw of balance due to extra winding mass. Negative would be motor may run a bit hotter. Very good presentation.
I have a Lionel 6-18003 (1501) Lackawanna 4-8-4 steamer. In seeing your engine open I was wondering if I could use that more modern smoker in mine. The lob on the front axle just broke apart and now there is no simple way to make the smoke puff. I hate to have to pull the front drive wheels off just to replace a part, that I can guess, will crack off again. I was thinking a more modern fan driven one could work and I could place a leaf switch in front of the drive rod tips in the front cylinder, to activate.
Judging the space in mine it looks like a smoke unit can fit inside but you may have to do your own bracket. Others have done the same too with a cherry switch. The only issue is syncing the chuffed sound with the smoke output. I'm not sure what part you need but I found number 600-8404-052 smoke cam and 600-0746-033 smoke lever in my parts book if you decide to fix your engine.
Another great video. Dumb question though. I noticed that in another video that you used a tool aside from the multimeter to test the armature. Can you provide the information on that tool? Or did I miss it in that video?
Any how great work & thank you for your time!
Thank you Steve. The other meter I'm using is the Supco M500 megometer (megger for short). I dont mention it in this video but i did use it in other videos and talk about what it does and how to set it up. It measures the resistance of the insulation of the wire, not the wire resistance. I explain it here in my ZW rebuild video. Go to time 4:45
ua-cam.com/video/qPZNaASE_lw/v-deo.html
If you have any questions on it, let me know I'll answer to the best of my ability.
@@TheCreativeMind Thank you so much!
I didn’t understand why you were talking about total length of wire. I have rewound about fifty of these and just counted the number of turns.Yes direction has tone right. Also I have found that most of the time the commutator plate will not come off or it will break. The person that wrote that book is Bob Hannon real nice guy and he will help anybody and does sell the commutator.The book also has the right wire Hague number of turns and direction.
You must have tons of patience for rewinding that many armatures up to this point. It's a rewarding experience when you see your work operate. For me I measured out the wire in full length so I can wrap the wire over the segment by hand. This action causes the wire to curl up on itself and I have to straighten it out every so often but not to often. I've seen devices that spun the armatures to wind the magnetic wire on them, thats something I like to own without stringing out the wire and doing it by hand. Bob Hannons book is really helpful but I'm not familiar with the motor types in modern locomotives even if the design was used in a postwar locomotive. That's why I used a wire gauge. Other than that, I'll have no problems working on older locomotives.
Wondering if YT is listening what I’m doing. I did the very same on a N gauge motor which dates from 41 years ago and there is no replacement.
I wonder that sometimes too 🤔
I wonder that sometimes too 🤔
You said that this armature was shorted, yet you measure all three of the sides and got the same resistance. If one coil was shorted you would get a much lower resistance read on the coil by it self. I have to assume you were testing a good motor armature for your understanding of what a good motor should be....
Yes the motor was shorted but to the segment. I pushed the wire aside into its field so I wouldn't get any false readings. I believe if I left the wire where it was, I still would have gotten the same readings. I should have left the wire in place and tried that theory. If I was to get a lower resistance reading on the Commutator plate, the varnish on the magnetic wire would have to rub away on itself creating a short on its own field thus lowering its resistive rating.
Awesome tutorial! Thank you for sharing! @Cbtrainnut