@@VetteSource Thanks for the reply. I see that as a “score”. Thanks for making such great videos for folks who can benefit from your journey, Great job on explaining and getting that camera in there in such a way that we can really understand what one would deal with in a similar situation. Best wishes brother!
@VetteSource just removed the real trailing arm assembly with drive shafts. Everything was smooth thanks to the video. next, I'm going to remove the differential
Great instructions. Definitely will come in handy. If you have an opportunity, I would sure like to see the best way to remove the soft front bumper of a C3. It’s currently giving me fits. There’s got to be an easier way.
Hey Randy, thanks for the feedback. The front bumper is definitely a pickle to get at. Are you trying to save your current bumper, or replacing it with a new one?
Front & rear bumpers are in pretty good shape since the car has been spared a lot of UV light most of its life. I finally got the front off a few days ago even though many of the #10 nuts were pretty rusted and a bear to get to and remove. All good now. Body is off and I’ll start ‘sanitizing’ the frame this week. West Coast Engines was balancing the new engine when I checked a few weeks ago so it should be coming in soon. Fingers crossed no major issues in the future. Thanks for responding as always. r
Body lifted, engine and transmission are removed, frame and suspension removed but the trailing arm bolts are STUCK.....any suggestions. Trying to get the frame sand blasted and powder coated in our complete resto-mod rebuild.
I hear ya, that's the thing you always want to not happen. Unfortunately your at the point of cutting the bolts out with a sawzall equipped with good bi-metal blades. After you get the alignment shims out, use a shorter blade, spray some lubricant in there, and cut through on each side of the trailing arm. It's tedious and time-consuming, but it will get it done. Let me know how it goes.
Bolt rusted in bushing use a sazsall 6” blade, take nut off bolt and pry pound the shims out. Then you have room to get sazsall blade in to cut bolt on each side of arm, easy , courses if bolts rusted in bushing your planning on replacing the bushing anyways or at least cause of the age of the bushing
Had to cut trailing arms in half then cut bolts and still had to get a porta power ti push rusted bolts out replaced with off set trailing arms and stainless steel bolts and shims
Yep, that is the fate of the majority of them. I half expected to find the same situation with this car and not be able to finish this video, but I got very lucky indeed👍.
he says several times that this can be more difficult // think about doing this laying on your back with the body on the chassis // just removed the rear end from my 79 with 75,000 miles on it and factory original hardware (and rust) // been wrenchng for 60 years // not a job for the faint of heart // it is a terrible job //
AL, you had me laughing out loud with your comment/testimony. 1000% correct this is a TERRIBLE job. It's so terrible in fact, I had avoided even attempting to make a how to video of trailing arm removal until I noticed this frame had stainless hardware installed. I have a nasty field find 74 that still has the body installed I'm going to start tearing down, so just for grins I'll make another video documenting what it's really like trying to get the C3 trailing arms bolts removed.
Oh, come on, guys. It ain't half as bad as assembling nuclear warheads. Before long, you'll have the scarred hands of a lifelong Harley-Davidson mechanic!
That would be called the "abandoned in a Texas field" look. Lots of surface/flash corrosion on the exposed metal, but no terminal rot. It's very common down this way.
I like this video. Lots of light. Good angles. Helpful dialog. I have to do mine, originals from 1967. I am good at procrastinating.
I hear ya. It's a struggle to get our snd do it sometimes😁. Glad to hear you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the comments👍.
Gary Vosberg does an excellent presentation of trailing arms removal with body on the car.
I'll have to check it out. Thanks for the heads up 👍.
Some good VBP parts on there. I’d be pulling that stuff as well!
Yep, I held on to them for sure👍.
@@VetteSource Thanks for the reply. I see that as a “score”. Thanks for making such great videos for folks who can benefit from your journey, Great job on explaining and getting that camera in there in such a way that we can really understand what one would deal with in a similar situation. Best wishes brother!
Going to do this on a 66 vette tommorow. I hope it goes as smooth as this
Good deal, good luck👍.
@VetteSource just removed the real trailing arm assembly with drive shafts. Everything was smooth thanks to the video. next, I'm going to remove the differential
Nice video!
Thanks, Stanley. Glad you enjoyed it👍.
partes is partes good job nice vid
Thanks buddy👍
great job
thankz for the lessson
Great instructions. Definitely will come in handy. If you have an opportunity, I would sure like to see the best way to remove the soft front bumper of a C3. It’s currently giving me fits. There’s got to be an easier way.
Hey Randy, thanks for the feedback. The front bumper is definitely a pickle to get at. Are you trying to save your current bumper, or replacing it with a new one?
Front & rear bumpers are in pretty good shape since the car has been spared a lot of UV light most of its life. I finally got the front off a few days ago even though many of the #10 nuts were pretty rusted and a bear to get to and remove. All good now. Body is off and I’ll start ‘sanitizing’ the frame this week. West Coast Engines was balancing the new engine when I checked a few weeks ago so it should be coming in soon. Fingers crossed no major issues in the future. Thanks for responding as always. r
No problem, my friend👍
Body lifted, engine and transmission are removed, frame and suspension removed but the trailing arm bolts are STUCK.....any suggestions. Trying to get the frame sand blasted and powder coated in our complete resto-mod rebuild.
I hear ya, that's the thing you always want to not happen. Unfortunately your at the point of cutting the bolts out with a sawzall equipped with good bi-metal blades. After you get the alignment shims out, use a shorter blade, spray some lubricant in there, and cut through on each side of the trailing arm. It's tedious and time-consuming, but it will get it done. Let me know how it goes.
Bolt rusted in bushing use a sazsall 6” blade, take nut off bolt and pry pound the shims out. Then you have room to get sazsall blade in to cut bolt on each side of arm, easy , courses if bolts rusted in bushing your planning on replacing the bushing anyways or at least cause of the age of the bushing
Yep, that is how it works about 80% of the time😁.
Had to cut trailing arms in half then cut bolts and still had to get a porta power ti push rusted bolts out replaced with off set trailing arms and stainless steel bolts and shims
Yep, that is the fate of the majority of them. I half expected to find the same situation with this car and not be able to finish this video, but I got very lucky indeed👍.
he says several times that this can be more difficult // think about doing this laying on your back with the body on the chassis // just removed the rear end from my 79 with 75,000 miles on it and factory original hardware (and rust) // been wrenchng for 60 years // not a job for the faint of heart // it is a terrible job //
AL, you had me laughing out loud with your comment/testimony. 1000% correct this is a TERRIBLE job. It's so terrible in fact, I had avoided even attempting to make a how to video of trailing arm removal until I noticed this frame had stainless hardware installed.
I have a nasty field find 74 that still has the body installed I'm going to start tearing down, so just for grins I'll make another video documenting what it's really like trying to get the C3 trailing arms bolts removed.
Oh, come on, guys. It ain't half as bad as assembling nuclear warheads. Before long, you'll have the scarred hands of a lifelong Harley-Davidson mechanic!
Assembling a nuclear warhead, now that would be a video I would watch😁.
flood parts ? why so rusty?
our burnt ? humm?
whoops c3
i get it
That would be called the "abandoned in a Texas field" look. Lots of surface/flash corrosion on the exposed metal, but no terminal rot. It's very common down this way.
bolt lives matter 4 sure
plastic fantantis?
Your jods are as much of a threat of tetanus as my 77..lol
Man, that's the truth. You just reminded me it's about time for my tetanus shot😁.
@VetteSource 😄😄 Hope ya had a great extended weekend, Brother
Definitely, the problem was finding stuff to occupy my time😁.
@VetteSource cmon over to SC and tell me how to put this rolling nightmare back together... bwahaha
c3 83 back rite
You figured it out, but for the other viewers, C3 generation of Corvettes runs from 1968 through 1982👍.