Even experienced carpenters can always learn something, good job. The long list of comments have a wealth of info. One suggestion Richard: I often will skip viewing a video because it is a bit too long for the time I have. Many of your videos can be easily shortened without losing any useful content, an accomplished writer explained to me about economy of words and this applies to videos as well. I think you can expand your views a lot by trimming the length. Thank you again Richard!
This applies to most videos on youtube...and I get where you are coming from BUT his content is good and cutting/trimming takes A LOT of time (multiply that by # of videos he put out). I don't fault him...his time is money. 200K subscribers says he is doing just fine w length of video
You have been a great inspiration to Me I live on cape cod have been doing carpentry Sincei was 12 years old I am now 36 And finally quit my job to do my own custom work When I started watching your videos My life got better Thanks bro
Pro tip: When cutting metal with a chop saw, you want your thickest section to span vertically, not horizontally. In other words, stand your flat bar on its edge. It will cut A LOT faster and produce a lot less heat. When cutting angle, lay it on the table with the free ends pointed down and the intersection pointed up. It’s a lot easier to lock it in with the clamp and cuts faster/colder than it would if you position it flat.
Looks great! I might add some epoxy to the rod before threading into the floor joist, but I tend to get carried away with things. For instance, I am now thinking that it would be extremely rigid to cut out a recess in the subfloor to glue and bolt in a 3” x 1/4” plate to span the entire way under all 3 posts, and install your flooring over the plate. Then drill for your rod as normal, but run a tap through the 1/4” plate, so the rod has metal threads to grab on its way into the joist which would prevent the rod from wallowing out the bores in the joist and you wouldn’t have to worry about over-tightening and pulling your rod out of the wood.... Like I said, I get a little carried away and end up spending way more on a project than it should ever cost. Lol
Nice alteration to the design of Next Level's post install. Very enjoyable watching skilled craftspeople design, try, and improve an idea or application. Thank you to both Finish Carpenters! -Bob...
Super idea. I would suggest putting a block of wood through the bar and fixed to floor. It will hold post square so handrail cuts are good. Keep up the good work.👷
Brilliant work buddy! I love learning new tricks of the trade. Been a carpenter for 9 years and whenever I need to refresh myself on trim I visit your vids.
Nice job, I would recommend using a block at the bottom of the post inside to keep the bottom of the newel located where you want it. Maybe inset a cap on the bottom and just drill a hole. I've been doing more railings lately on my projects. Also I would recommend adding solid blocking at the rail attachment points and check out zipbolt for rail attachment. The old school rail bolts are a pain, but they are super strong. Regular screws, pocket hole screws are just not strong enough for railings. One more fyi most building codes allow you to go up to 8' between newel posts for rails.
Hi Richard, A little tip when need to mark black steel sticking a piece of masking tape always a fast way for marking your measurements, nice high quality workmanship you doin there, keep the good work up.
lostintime86 they have point tip sharpies that mark metal no problem that will be as accurate as a pencil I use than all the time for union commercial work...
lostintime86 he’s not building a space ship a 32nd or even a 16th isn’t a big deal for what he’s doing either way a sharpie will give you just as fine a line as a pencil and you won’t need to tape or paint your steel before marking it
LOVE YOUR CHANNEL MAN! Your videos are super helpful, I enjoy watching you work and I do learn a ton from you! I'm a DIY guy but am a perfectionist and your videos help me a ton. Last but definitely not least Thank you for your service to us and your Country!
Whoa! That is a brilliant plan and solution. This is an incredibly informative video, and my favoriate one yet! I’m so happy for you and the self gratifying rewards of do it yourself home improvements and ownership. (It’s my favorite hobby, and I have a LOT of hobbies.) I almost forgot to mention, those posts are absolutely perfect!
Love your channel dude, learning so much. Tip for finding the center on the steel is just to scribe a line corner to corner and make a cross. Give. You the perfect centre with no measuring etc Keep it coming
Super nice newel posts! The wood that your top bracket sits on will compact a bit from the pressure of the bracket over the first few days, so go back and re-tighten in a few days before putting a top on. Also, like someone else suggested, a wooden square infill (like a square wooden washer really, that fits snugly inside the post) at the bottom of the threaded rod will assure that the bottom of your post cannot move. You are probably going to have some trim along the floor anyway, but a bit of extra sturdiness is never going to hurt.
Looks great! UA-cam definitely pays attention to what we watch. I was watching your progress and that same video you referred to showed up in my feed. Watched that, and now here you are. Thanks for posting the awesome content!
Looking good Richard! Love the raised panels for sure. Perfection. Threaded rod is what we use on all of our pony walls and large railing posts. We use a bit thicker steel plate, but you shouldn't have any issue at all, your span isn't very long and you're material is fairly light weight. Nice job once again, and thanks for the content! 👊
Just want to say a special thanks to Matt Jackson over at Next Level Carpentry for helping me out with the installation method of these posts. Do yourself a favor and go subscribe to his channel! ua-cam.com/users/nextlevelcarpentry His channel is one of my favorite channels to watch!!!
Keep building ! I subscribed and I rang the bell. Love people who strive to be better at what they do and give credit to those who they have learned from.
Great Method. I do the same way but I use a hardwood sleeve at the bottom with washer and nut. So when you slide the post over it centers and gives it even more strength. , still using the top nut but I use a piece 3x3 or 4x4 3/8 steel stock so it’s captured at the top as well.
That method of Anchorage has been around for many years. I don't know the size of that bar that you drill the hole through on the top but it look like the 5/8 hole drill in it knocked out almost all the strength I would have gone with a wider piece. Thicker steel would have been better too. Keep up the good work.
They are looking good. Take a dowel, drill a hole in the center, tap in a tee nut in the hole, drill a hole in the newell cap and glue in the dowel with the tee nut inside. Then you can screw Newell cap onto the threaded rod.
THAT is likely the best way to mount posts for railings I have seen. Simple, effective, (apparently), fast. I would be supremely confident that is not going to fall apart. One thing, a provision for cap removal. That way, from time to time as the wood moves around; and it will; you could throw a quarter turn on the nut to keep everything tight. Just my opinion.
Well done to be honest watching that when you first put the rod in it looked that flimsy didn’t think it was going to work but what a finish absolutely perfect can’t wait to see the finished article 👍
Amazing work! I’m learning and getting ideas from your videos. I ALSO purchased the miter protractor per your advice in one of your other videos. Thankfully I’m in FTW so I’m also going to the get materials from the plywood company you talked about.
Killer look man. I did a knee wall at top of an open case few months back. Used a similar method to lock the end in. But wished if have seen this 1st. That threaded bar was a nice touch. I'll have to remember that..
I think that was a good call by using the ratchet and not the impact to snug the posts to the floor. You don't want to crack or bust something at that stage. Looks great. Hope we get to see the finished project.
Great post! Thank you for the tip! It will come in handy in near future! PS! You don't need to measure to find the center of the metal. Just draw a cross (from corner to corner), then you will find the center.
Love it. To make it stiffer, while building the post put one of those bars in the middle. You could still get a nut on it with a crows foot and it wouldn't have to be super torqued as its just there to remove the flex as opposed to securing it like the top one. Alternatively or in addition to it, you could "double the wall thickness for a few inches at the bottom or even insert a block to make it solid at the bottom and/or put a tie bar down there as well. The more solid at the bottom, the more resistance to tilting. But I think with the other post you'll be fine. Last thought, pour some quick set cement in the bottom...wait...could that actually work, with four 1/4 inch rebar poles set into the floor and up a few inches?
Good job, If you scribe a diagonal line from the end corners of your piece of metal, where they intersect (center of the X) is the center, saves a lot of measuring
Try getting a steel demon blade for all your metal cutting, it leaves nice clean edges that don't even need ground down and the blade cuts through steel like plywood! Thanks for the video!
Cool how the strength/stiffness of the post doesn't rely on the stiffness of that piece of all thread when it's first screwed into the floor, right? The rod's tensile strength is what stiffens up the installation when combined with the compression strength of the assembly. It can be a bit unnerving when you're installing the first one though. Any post installation is going to have some 'give' to it but compared to brackets that screw down and into the post, newels done like you show here are MUCH stiffer. BTW I owe you one (actually way more than one!) for that fantastic shout out Richard so thank you... until you're better paid! Best, Matt
Nice! I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw I wore out ( won't hold a good enough angle for trim ) that I put a Dewalt metal blade on for cutting steel. Cheap and it works good enough for me.
Maybe it has been mentioned, but to make that even stronger, put another steel plate from inside corner to inside corner the other direction, and that would double the strength of the plate, and allow for more tightening strength, which would make the post even more ridge. Another idea to improve the strength would be to simply use thicker steel. The only thing I didn't like about your solution here is that after you drill the hole for the threaded rod, it doesn't leave much steel left on the sides of the plate. You could use a wider plate, but then perhaps you'd be getting a bit too close to the edges of the post. All in all, great work, I really enjoy your channel and learn a lot from it.
How about putting a small blocking piece inside the post at floor level. Drill a hole in the middle of the blocking then slide it onto the threaded bar before the newel post gets attached. It keeps the threaded bar centred with the bottom of the post on the floor. Love your videos!
Hey man, That will be very solid, usually what I do is I install a solid 4x4 post into the joist like 10” and wrap the post, but what you did is good idea, thank you
I see the weak link being that top mild steel bracket that you made (max TQ delivered)... I think if you would have doubled up some 3/4 plywood and cut to fit the inside post and routed out, set in the doubled 3/4 plywood. It would have taken a higher TQ load... But regardless it’s quite solid 🤙🏻
Athud I've just said the exact same thing above. It doesn't necessarily need it as this balustrading will be rock solid when it's all tired together with handrails etc but considering the lengths he had gone to and the little extra routing and cutting of steel he may as well do it 👍😀
I was thinking that if he used an angle iron piece instead of the flat steel, then he could torque on it more. The flat steel had to start bending when he tightened the nut, the angle piece would not.
One suggestion would be to put some resin in the hole for the threads to anchor to, that way it can never 'loosen up'. It would then be one solid unit with the joist.
I enjoy Next Level Carpentry and also plan on using his technique for newel post mounting in our home. Question: How is the base on your implementation? Any slippage by pushing against the base of the newel? The Top look solid. Also looking forward to seeing how you finish the stairs / trim the stairs.
That looks interesting. You need a next level carpenter for that! I have to work out a newel that can't go into a concrete floor (post-tensioned), and it won't be done by a carpenter like that.
Even experienced carpenters can always learn something, good job. The long list of comments have a wealth of info. One suggestion Richard: I often will skip viewing a video because it is a bit too long for the time I have. Many of your videos can be easily shortened without losing any useful content, an accomplished writer explained to me about economy of words and this applies to videos as well. I think you can expand your views a lot by trimming the length. Thank you again Richard!
This applies to most videos on youtube...and I get where you are coming from BUT his content is good and cutting/trimming takes A LOT of time (multiply that by # of videos he put out). I don't fault him...his time is money. 200K subscribers says he is doing just fine w length of video
You have been a great inspiration to
Me
I live on cape cod have been doing carpentry
Sincei was 12 years old I am now 36
And finally quit my job to do my own custom work
When I started watching your videos
My life got better
Thanks bro
Post videos
Third segment video on your newel post construction, and installation. Looks fantastic. Kudos.
Pro tip: When cutting metal with a chop saw, you want your thickest section to span vertically, not horizontally. In other words, stand your flat bar on its edge. It will cut A LOT faster and produce a lot less heat. When cutting angle, lay it on the table with the free ends pointed down and the intersection pointed up. It’s a lot easier to lock it in with the clamp and cuts faster/colder than it would if you position it flat.
I appreciate that I can learn something clever each time I watch your videos.
Man, I admire your skills. Your customers are in good hands.
Two of the best carpentry channels, Next Level Carpentry and Finish Carpentry. You both make things look way too easy.
MJ is an awesome carpenter and teacher. Nice work Richard.
I used the threaded rod technique and it worked great! Many thanks to you and Next Level Carpentry for the ideas.
This project just keeps getting better. Looking forward to seeing more of it.
Looks great! I might add some epoxy to the rod before threading into the floor joist, but I tend to get carried away with things. For instance, I am now thinking that it would be extremely rigid to cut out a recess in the subfloor to glue and bolt in a 3” x 1/4” plate to span the entire way under all 3 posts, and install your flooring over the plate. Then drill for your rod as normal, but run a tap through the 1/4” plate, so the rod has metal threads to grab on its way into the joist which would prevent the rod from wallowing out the bores in the joist and you wouldn’t have to worry about over-tightening and pulling your rod out of the wood.... Like I said, I get a little carried away and end up spending way more on a project than it should ever cost. Lol
Nice alteration to the design of Next Level's post install. Very enjoyable watching skilled craftspeople design, try, and improve an idea or application. Thank you to both Finish Carpenters! -Bob...
Super idea. I would suggest putting a block of wood through the bar and fixed to floor. It will hold post square so handrail cuts are good. Keep up the good work.👷
First time seeing the wobble free post install. I love the idea and execution.
You keep getting better and better. I learn so much just watching your videos. Thank You.
Watching this video, Texas came to mind. I hope you and family were ok during the storm and stuff.
Nice work Richard. You are r3ally stepping up the design of your home. Looks great.
Brilliant work buddy! I love learning new tricks of the trade. Been a carpenter for 9 years and whenever I need to refresh myself on trim I visit your vids.
Nice job, I would recommend using a block at the bottom of the post inside to keep the bottom of the newel located where you want it. Maybe inset a cap on the bottom and just drill a hole. I've been doing more railings lately on my projects. Also I would recommend adding solid blocking at the rail attachment points and check out zipbolt for rail attachment. The old school rail bolts are a pain, but they are super strong. Regular screws, pocket hole screws are just not strong enough for railings. One more fyi most building codes allow you to go up to 8' between newel posts for rails.
Hi Richard,
A little tip when need to mark black steel sticking a piece of masking tape always a fast way for marking your measurements, nice high quality workmanship you doin there, keep the good work up.
proudpalestinian1 or you could just use a sharpie
@@garykee9117 nah. pencil mark is always sharper than a sharpie mark.
lostintime86 they have point tip sharpies that mark metal no problem that will be as accurate as a pencil I use than all the time for union commercial work...
lostintime86 he’s not building a space ship a 32nd or even a 16th isn’t a big deal for what he’s doing either way a sharpie will give you just as fine a line as a pencil and you won’t need to tape or paint your steel before marking it
Use a scribe to scratch the metal. Fine line and very accurate.
LOVE YOUR CHANNEL MAN! Your videos are super helpful, I enjoy watching you work and I do learn a ton from you! I'm a DIY guy but am a perfectionist and your videos help me a ton. Last but definitely not least Thank you for your service to us and your Country!
I love Matt's channel, good shoutout to him! And nice work!
Whoa! That is a brilliant plan and solution. This is an incredibly informative video, and my favoriate one yet! I’m so happy for you and the self gratifying rewards of do it yourself home improvements and ownership. (It’s my favorite hobby, and I have a LOT of hobbies.) I almost forgot to mention, those posts are absolutely perfect!
I mounted my post the same method, after watching the same video you watched. Worked awesome
Very impressed mate. A lot of work gone in the that!
Outstanding Marine, beautiful work.
Cover the thread with liquid nails, the one that goes into the subfloor. And use a silver Sharpie to mark on dark, and metal surfaces. Works grear
Throw a block to keep the bottom
in place. Awesome way to mount them.
Excited to see the finished product
Great video and product... I am a professional trimmer here in upstate NY...love your videos...I even have my guys watch them!!
I’m a huge fan of you and Matt. I watch everything you both put out. You’re two totally different carpenters, but both great!
Love your channel dude, learning so much.
Tip for finding the center on the steel is just to scribe a line corner to corner and make a cross. Give. You the perfect centre with no measuring etc
Keep it coming
Nice sturdy construction. Thank you for sharing.
Super clever install Richard! Looks great.
Super nice newel posts! The wood that your top bracket sits on will compact a bit from the pressure of the bracket over the first few days, so go back and re-tighten in a few days before putting a top on. Also, like someone else suggested, a wooden square infill (like a square wooden washer really, that fits snugly inside the post) at the bottom of the threaded rod will assure that the bottom of your post cannot move. You are probably going to have some trim along the floor anyway, but a bit of extra sturdiness is never going to hurt.
Looks great! UA-cam definitely pays attention to what we watch. I was watching your progress and that same video you referred to showed up in my feed. Watched that, and now here you are. Thanks for posting the awesome content!
Looking good Richard! Love the raised panels for sure. Perfection.
Threaded rod is what we use on all of our pony walls and large railing posts. We use a bit thicker steel plate, but you shouldn't have any issue at all, your span isn't very long and you're material is fairly light weight. Nice job once again, and thanks for the content! 👊
Appreciate the detail. Excellent presentation. Keep up the good work!
Una persona que reconoce la grandeza de otra persona, demuestra su grandeza y la humildad con que vive... Mis respetos
y mi admiracion.. saludos !
Also adding a sleeve of rigid conduit over the all thread will take majority of initial deflection out . Great job and keep sharing .
Love seeing home projects! You can always take it to another level compared to doing work in someone else’s house.
Love watching your videos. You're awesome. I learn something every time.
Thanks for being honest n not being fake and NOT taking the created of another.
Thanks so much, I drilled and taped crown stops to my dewalt DW705. Worked like a champ.
Man you have shown me so much since I have been watching your channel. Thanks
Just want to say a special thanks to Matt Jackson over at Next Level Carpentry for helping me out with the installation method of these posts. Do yourself a favor and go subscribe to his channel!
ua-cam.com/users/nextlevelcarpentry
His channel is one of my favorite channels to watch!!!
Wow, alright, I end up saying wow every video I watch of yours, I am soaking up all this information! Thank you again!
Thanks for plugging Matt! You both are awesome!
Yes! we have done that on plenty of old houses. we try to get a nut and washer on the bottom too, when there is access.
Keep building ! I subscribed and I rang the bell. Love people who strive to be better at what they do and give credit to those who they have learned from.
Very interesting and yep looks really secure. Going to look awesome.
I installed a knee wall that way back-plated through the subfloor 35 years ago. Great job.
Awesome stuff Nice you gave credit to Next Level. Your a good man.
Thanks Richard for sharing with us all. They look beautiful! My finish carpenter isn't going to like me but, thankfully I only need three of them!
Really awesome from the build to the install.
Great Method. I do the same way but I use a hardwood sleeve at the bottom with washer and nut. So when you slide the post over it centers and gives it even more strength. , still using the top nut but I use a piece 3x3 or 4x4 3/8 steel stock so it’s captured at the top as well.
That method of Anchorage has been around for many years. I don't know the size of that bar that you drill the hole through on the top but it look like the 5/8 hole drill in it knocked out almost all the strength I would have gone with a wider piece. Thicker steel would have been better too. Keep up the good work.
Fantastic look. Can't wait to see the railings! Keep up the great videos.
They are looking good. Take a dowel, drill a hole in the center, tap in a tee nut in the hole, drill a hole in the newell cap and glue in the dowel with the tee nut inside. Then you can screw Newell cap onto the threaded rod.
THAT is likely the best way to mount posts for railings I have seen. Simple, effective, (apparently), fast. I would be supremely confident that is not going to fall apart. One thing, a provision for cap removal. That way, from time to time as the wood moves around; and it will; you could throw a quarter turn on the nut to keep everything tight. Just my opinion.
That’s freaking brilliant ! NLC a great channel as well !
Well done to be honest watching that when you first put the rod in it looked that flimsy didn’t think it was going to work but what a finish absolutely perfect can’t wait to see the finished article 👍
Excellent! Thanks again. The knowledge keeps flowing.
Amazing work! I’m learning and getting ideas from your videos. I ALSO purchased the miter protractor per your advice in one of your other videos. Thankfully I’m in FTW so I’m also going to the get materials from the plywood company you talked about.
Excellent as usual my friend...
You nailed those newel posts, great job
Did you even watch the video? He didn’t use a single nail anywhere! Lol
Killer look man. I did a knee wall at top of an open case few months back. Used a similar method to lock the end in. But wished if have seen this 1st. That threaded bar was a nice touch. I'll have to remember that..
Awesome I had no idea the threadd would tighten st the bottom into the wood without a type of wedge anchor awesome video man
I think that was a good call by using the ratchet and not the impact to snug the posts to the floor. You don't want to crack or bust something at that stage. Looks great. Hope we get to see the finished project.
Great post! Thank you for the tip! It will come in handy in near future!
PS! You don't need to measure to find the center of the metal. Just draw a cross (from corner to corner), then you will find the center.
Love it. To make it stiffer, while building the post put one of those bars in the middle. You could still get a nut on it with a crows foot and it wouldn't have to be super torqued as its just there to remove the flex as opposed to securing it like the top one. Alternatively or in addition to it, you could "double the wall thickness for a few inches at the bottom or even insert a block to make it solid at the bottom and/or put a tie bar down there as well. The more solid at the bottom, the more resistance to tilting. But I think with the other post you'll be fine. Last thought, pour some quick set cement in the bottom...wait...could that actually work, with four 1/4 inch rebar poles set into the floor and up a few inches?
Good job, If you scribe a diagonal line from the end corners of your piece of metal, where they intersect (center of the X) is the center, saves a lot of measuring
Try getting a steel demon blade for all your metal cutting, it leaves nice clean edges that don't even need ground down and the blade cuts through steel like plywood! Thanks for the video!
Cool how the strength/stiffness of the post doesn't rely on the stiffness of that piece of all thread when it's first screwed into the floor, right? The rod's tensile strength is what stiffens up the installation when combined with the compression strength of the assembly. It can be a bit unnerving when you're installing the first one though. Any post installation is going to have some 'give' to it but compared to brackets that screw down and into the post, newels done like you show here are MUCH stiffer. BTW I owe you one (actually way more than one!) for that fantastic shout out Richard so thank you... until you're better paid! Best, Matt
These posts are awsome. It was good to see how you installed them! Thanks for sharing
Great job! Keep up the great work!
Very good method for securing newel posts.
I bet you could adapt that method to floating shelves.
Part 2 please! I wanna see the whole process with all post installed with rails fully completed. Looks awesome.
Beautiful work Richard. Semper Fi brother.
Is he Marine?
Juan Hernandez As far as I know, he is.
Great stuff as always Richard!
Would a base bracket as you have on top reduce the chance of knocking the post off center at the bottom? Love the videos.
Nice! I have an old Delta 10" compound miter saw I wore out ( won't hold a good enough angle for trim ) that I put a Dewalt metal blade on for cutting steel. Cheap and it works good enough for me.
Maybe it has been mentioned, but to make that even stronger, put another steel plate from inside corner to inside corner the other direction, and that would double the strength of the plate, and allow for more tightening strength, which would make the post even more ridge.
Another idea to improve the strength would be to simply use thicker steel.
The only thing I didn't like about your solution here is that after you drill the hole for the threaded rod, it doesn't leave much steel left on the sides of the plate. You could use a wider plate, but then perhaps you'd be getting a bit too close to the edges of the post.
All in all, great work, I really enjoy your channel and learn a lot from it.
Awesome job, they look great. I can’t wait to see it completed.
How about putting a small blocking piece inside the post at floor level. Drill a hole in the middle of the blocking then slide it onto the threaded bar before the newel post gets attached. It keeps the threaded bar centred with the bottom of the post on the floor. Love your videos!
Nice work bro, really like the threaded rod idea
Hey man, That will be very solid, usually what I do is I install a solid 4x4 post into the joist like 10” and wrap the post, but what you did is good idea, thank you
Dude ,you should place a locating block on the bottom of the Newel.🤔
Roll Roll yes most definitely
concur.
My first thought as he put the post into position. Good job though.
like a reference scrap piece from the edge to the post? I am assuming that will make things even with the next posts he puts in?
Nice of you to shout out Next Level! 👍🏼
Nicely done! Wish I had your job!
Great job, I would suggest using medium strength thread lock (the blue one) on the threads so the nut does not become loose over time
Nice work. I saw the next level video and thought it was brilliant. Kudos to you for sharing your knowledge.
I see the weak link being that top mild steel bracket that you made (max TQ delivered)... I think if you would have doubled up some 3/4 plywood and cut to fit the inside post and routed out, set in the doubled 3/4 plywood. It would have taken a higher TQ load... But regardless it’s quite solid 🤙🏻
I was thinking just use 2 pieces of flat bar in an X pattern.
Athud I've just said the exact same thing above. It doesn't necessarily need it as this balustrading will be rock solid when it's all tired together with handrails etc but considering the lengths he had gone to and the little extra routing and cutting of steel he may as well do it 👍😀
I was thinking that if he used an angle iron piece instead of the flat steel, then he could torque on it more. The flat steel had to start bending when he tightened the nut, the angle piece would not.
Nice looking work.
Wow this is so cool! Your house is going to be so cool when you’re done !
It’s called allthread and awesome job bud keep up the good work
One suggestion would be to put some resin in the hole for the threads to anchor to, that way it can never 'loosen up'. It would then be one solid unit with the joist.
Nice work, that came out perfect. 👌
I enjoy Next Level Carpentry and also plan on using his technique for newel post mounting in our home. Question: How is the base on your implementation? Any slippage by pushing against the base of the newel? The Top look solid. Also looking forward to seeing how you finish the stairs / trim the stairs.
That's an awesome little trick on placing those posts!! Great work man!!
That looks interesting. You need a next level carpenter for that! I have to work out a newel that can't go into a concrete floor (post-tensioned), and it won't be done by a carpenter like that.