New Weight Distribution Deltaforce Vortex 34 Fe Rc Hydroplane
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- Опубліковано 20 тра 2024
- RECOMMEND RUDDER (current TFL rudder is to small)
Speedmaster 1" rudder assembly 1⅝" setback
www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...
VORTEX HYDROPLANE HULLS (16, 23, 34")
www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...
Leopard X2 4082 (1600kv)
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200a G2 ZTW esc
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25kg DS servo
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40MM carbonfiber motor mount
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Speedmaster 21 strut HYDRO/SHORT
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.186 3/16 flexcable
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5mm to .187 coupler
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8mm SILICONE COOLING LINE
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LARGE WATER EXIT
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36" long 1/4" brass tube
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MEDIUM COWL LOCK (perfect for the vortex 34)
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Mad Lizard original turn fin
www.madlizardproducts.com/pro...
Venom Carbon 6oz 2x2 twill Carbon Fiber & epoxy resin
www.ebay.com/itm/115173374556...
Thanks for Watching ironclad rc tinker test and tune everything
Personal contact information ironcladedout@gmail.com
Big B , you are a veteran . I would be crying like a baby by now . I am sure you will nail this soon . You are an inspiration .
Thanks, gotta keep pushing till I find the culprit
My favorite thing about this channel is watching you test and tune , always something new to know . This hydro is been my favorite lately . When it comes to steering rod , when its a straight run , i found that carbon fiber rod of the same size , 2 and 2.5 mm is stiffer in my experience then stainless rod and lighter but the weight difference is not worth it and most wont care . Nothing wrong with stainless obviously although you wont break a carbon fiber rod but you will bend a stainless one and a light boat is a fast boat ..
I'm really hoping it's the steering rod cause I just changed it out, BUT I'm gonna feel like a dumb azz if all it was this whole time was the steering rod
I believe rc boats are always on the edge of “breaking traction” for lack of a better term.
So the occasional kick out, bow high attitude, spin out or fly over will always happen, I think what we’re looking for is the most stable a boat can get at full throttle, any boat will handle well at half throttle 🤣
Big B your boats handle pretty damn good at full throttle right from the first toss, we really appreciate the tinkering tuning and testing to get them dialed in, kinda creates a short cut for us viewers, my maiden run with my shrimp rigger was great, 55mph and nothing but prop and sponson tips on the water, thanks and keep up the good work 👍. BGFL
Automotive vacuum caps will work get the large ones. You can get them at any auto parts stores. Love the videos. Let me know if you do it, I would like to know how they work for you. They worked great for me.
Thanks for the tip! Next time I'm at the auto store I'll check them out
Brother-B! Have you thought about running heavier batteries? That boat is so big and has so much surface area working to get it up on top of the water that adding a little more weight might help with the handling. I have a small hydro that was acting a lot like yours in the video. I found that adding a little more weight “heavier batteries” settled the boat down at higher speeds, and helped it stay level while turning. Maybe this will help? BG4L Bro!
I'll try some heavy packs here shortly
Dialing the boat in is half the fun. You might try removing some of the setback of the propeller. You may no longer need to move the rudder further back. I also think it might solve the back end prop walking out on you. It's getting better. This is fun to follow along. Keep the content coming.
Found the issue today and you'll never guess the cause! Sick to my stomach
Gettiin closer B! At least now she takes the speed all the way thru the turn.
Luv this build series. Gettin er dialed in. I run my hydro rudders close to the transom with the rear of the rudder in front or even with the front of the prop. Helps stop the rear from kicking out i found. Especially in the turns. Its physics and the leverage vs length of overall boat Just my 2 cents
Great work 👍
Hey big B, love the build!! just a thought, 🤔 I was watching some videos of 1/10 and 1/8 scale Hydros in RCU they all seem to have the leading edge of the rudder is just behind the trailing edge of the prop. so, I believe that extended rudder block you were talking about should help, and then you can play with CG. I don't think you ever had the rudder back far enough compared to the prop.
Thanks for the tip I'll look into it
Great job as usual. I never use double sided tape sticks to good. I use heavy duty Velcro never had a problem, ( maybe add a zip tie if possible). I can’t remember if you have tried a three blade, I will go back and check. Can’t wait to see what it is we are all anxious
Used HD velcro alot a fee years ago, had my esc break loose a few times and crack a couple hulls so I started using that 3M stuff.
Sounds good, it’s so hard to get that double-sided tape off 👍👍
99ct long razor knife to cut my double size tape & wd-40 helps
“B” I was looking on the map where you’re running… you’re braver than most people think… you have gators 🐊 In them waters…. No thanks… be careful. Other than that boats doing great !!
Yea it's sketchy to say the least, saw a yellow belly water moccasin a few outings ago.
It would be interesting to see how much weight the rear strut/prop is lifting . 2 wood blocks under the sponsons ,weight scale under the strut with a support block for correct ride height. A little bit more acurate for repeating a good setup.
I already did it, but I'll add this to my next video, was gonna include it in this one but this video was long enough lol.
I'm interested already and looking forward yo see the video as usual.😊
Small Balloons on the hatch locks inside with plastic wire ties to hold ‘em in place maybe ?
Yep that will do it, that's quick and cheap. Thanks
buy those colored thread protectors for the end of threads. they make them in all sizes.
Roger that thanks
What if u keep the strut angle the same but make the prop a little deeper in the water?? Keep CG and everything else the same....
We'll try it next outing
SCBG4L
Hey B those hatch locks were the OSE mediums correct? I'm in love with them
Yea, I got the sizing wrong in my video, medium hatch locks
@@IRONCLADRC Thanks man. Can't wait for you to get the hydro dialed. Have you tried a diff servo for s&g's? Got a GoPro to put on facing the rear of the boat?
Here's my 2cts
I think the carbon Fiber servo/rudder arm is flexing. Rudder might be getting a push & its bending the rod the opposite way, that's what my mind goes to when it tries to wash out the rear end. Hard to make suggestions as a viewer with no knowledge on hydros(and then you mentioned it at the end lol)
Just changed it out, I was hoping that wasn't the issue, I'd feel real dumb if it was.. lol.
Man Your expecting too much in that water not even a rigger would go any good in water that bumpy
I said it the other day now Mike sayin it . The rudder needs to be closer to the back of the boat & the prop needs to be further back . U are getting prop wash i think . The thrust cone of the prop is affecting the rudder under water . It's like U lose control of the boat , it's like the boat starts to steer when U go fast going straight . I don't think U hav tried that yet & it really doesn't cost anything just time & effort .
Just my thoughts