I honestly kinda like the tip being tan instead of white. Feels like a cap of gold, while the rest is bleached lye or marble, like how the pyramids would have looked when they were first built
@@bricksculpt I've seen folks make mention a few times about common-ish parts not being available in VERY common colours. Seems to be a bit of a "thing" with LEGO.
the Washington Monument is capped with a solid chunk of aluminum, which at the time, was the most expensive metal in the world. ...a couple years later they found an easier way to produce it and it sharply fell to being one of the cheapest metals
Actually there is a way... if you sacrifice the look from close range. You can apply sort of anti aliasing on edges which will help smooth out their look. Look up "Cooltwo" he came up with this and made videos explaining the topic
My method for these sorts of problems is hinged pieces at the bottom, with the sides built up as flat pieces. With a slope this gradual, it results in some truly cursed jumper technique to get anywhere near flush corners. Really love the layering technique here!
I thought about that too at first, but you'd get some seriously ugly seams along the faces (or along the edges). The best way I can think of making that work is to have the middle part of each face inset (by 1 plate/tile), with 2-stud-wide plates (5 plates in the orthogonal direction) or something similar running along the edges. That won't make a good replica of the Washington Monument, but it might look really good for an inscribed Egyptian obelisk (or a tapering sky scraper build).
So now there might be something obvious I'm missing, but why not use the hinge brick element to create the outside slope. There's probably some awkward Lego math at the top but otherwise I think it would provide a reasonably smooth taper across the length.
I think it would be interesting to build four tapering sides with hinge plates, and connect them together. It would be a tricky challenge to deal with the gaps in middle of each face.
I'm tempted to try this--I think you could handle the corners ok by having panels on the edges that overlap an angled square column (or maybe the panels are on the corner). There'd need to be some snot to attach it all but it's a tried and true technique you see a lot on spaceship mocs for smooth tapered wings
The taper at a 45 degree angle is the challenge. I couldn't figure out how to make that mathematically work with hinges. If you can figure it out please share I would love to see it done!
Yeah I'm a no frills kinda video maker. I feel like the mrbeastafication of youtube has ruined so many good subject videos trying to add entertainment value.
Always fascinating to witness another builder's thought process when it come to solving these sorts of challenges. I would have approached it completely differently
Interesting but how do we really know? Considering Lego didn’t really print inside the anti-studs on early pieces and there are no studs on this piece..
Now I know what I’m building tonight! Need to build one of these with half a plate thickness change per level now. You can connect those levels up using a mix of jumper plates with SNOT bricks on them to get the quarter plate thickness change.
@@bricksculpt OK, so I’ve made 6 levels with half a plate thickness change per level now. This takes it from 8 bricks wide on the bottom layer to 7 bricks wide on the top layer. The step between levels is 0.8mm (1/32 inch). The trick to doing that is to alternate using an odd and even number of brick-widths with a different number of plate thicknesses per level. Mixing up the odd and even brick widths is the equivalent of adding in a bracket thickness each level. The core alternates between and odd an even number of brick-widths 1,2,3 & 4 (or 5,6,7,8 etc.) between layers, but combined with plates thickness added to that. If there’s interested I can complete it and upload a video. Thanks!
It feels like there should be a way to get to "checkpoints" where you can use the same inner series to get to a certain point, and have a repeatable technique to tune the outer diameter... but with these kinds of things it could just as easily be unique solutions basically forever
Interesting concept. You went a totally different way than what I was initially thinking and so I may explore the obelisk now. My initial thinking was to use hinge plates/bricks at the base to then angle the walls inwards at the slight 5 degree-ish angle. Granted that would leave the corners kind of gap-py.
At least they make parts for some of the shapes you tried to accomplish. May not be smooth but I suppose it’s good enough. Great video! Again it’s something I’ve never considered making and am gonna try to in my own way to see how it turns out.
Great video! I love the math side of LEGO so hear me out: If you built a brick tower that varied every 5 plates tall between 1x2 snot bricks and 2x2 brackets with a 5 plate tall smooth layer every 5th, you could add 1-2 plated tiles to the outside and get an easier obelisk that is exactly 10 times the height of it's base. Say the bottom is 5 plates tall, follow it up with a snot brick layer with a plate and a tile, then a bracket with a tile, then snot brick and tile, then recess a snot brick with two plates and a tile. The only issue I see is the corners of each needing door rails and other non-smooth elements to fill gaps, but as you say in the video, if it's built big enough it wouldn't ruin the design. I really like how you managed to take something as common as a children's toy (the stacking one not LEGO 😂) and turn it into a really cool design for MOC building, keep up the good work!!!
So i know you called it a babies toy, the stacking tower thing..... But the actual Tower of Hanoi is a fascinating mathematical puzzle. One with a fairly rich history, also appeared in yugioh!
I tried to build the shape of a bullet once, which (fun fact) is an obelisk shape as well for a silhouette. It is basically impossible without illegal techniques to make a very gradual obelisk-esque shape at that scale.
Love this idea, it makes for shape that gives the impression of an absolutely smooth taper if you take enough layers between each. Very costly in terms of bricks, but a unique thing that might be worth making some day. Thanks for showing us, there is so much stuff to learn with bricks!
This along with the “pieces” playlist is great! Your way of doing videos with having prebuilt sections that you just bring onto the table without any obnoxious editing is lovely! The bite size length of the videos are also pretty cool with them being 13-20mins long (though I wouldn’t mind a longer video!). Your commentary is also really entertaining!
i'm gonne be honest, the fisty thought i had was to use something with bars and clips, and then make a large plate that represents the sides, you'd have to plate it all up and probably make something with the corners, maybe also need a internal support pillar. but it would look pretty straight and good i believe. but indeed this is a really cool challenge.
Before Lego made an Architecture skyline set of San Francisco, I made one of my own. I really struggled with the Transamerica pyramid, since it has that shallow slope like an obelisk. The long triangular pieces they used in the official model hadn't been made in White yet and your obelisk method only works on a large scale, so I went with using white rods for the edges and left the faces hollow, to just suggest the shape of the building instead of replicating it. The result was alright, but the official set is far better.
I think the title of the video is a bit misleading. Having built a few warships from COBI, I can attest, that smooth and round hull shapes are more difficult. Even with their collection of specialized wedges and slopes, they still can't do it. Neither could LEGO with their large RMS Titanic MOC. The same priciple also goes for cars. The best looking ones are the boxy cars like the Land Rover Defender.
I love how this is exactly what pyramids look like when they awaken. It even has a pole holding it toghether like a metaphor of the very special tree inside. Now it only needs a starry sphinx
Interesting how the core has a repeat pattern as follows: Even number of studs: attached Even studs +1 plate: 2x2 Even studs +2 plates: 4x4 Odd number of studs: attached Odd studs + 1 plate: 5x5 Odd studs +2 plates: 3x3 Even number of studs: see above (pattern repeats)
8 studs is also 6 studs + 5 plates. Might make some of those layers more easy to build, if you can have plates in all of them. Might stop working at 6 studs, though; that would be 4 studs, 5 plates. Then again, that could just about fit around a 2x2 core.
I didn't know where you were going with this, all I could imagine would have still been stepped and jagged, but you made it work very effectively. I imagine that if Lego themselves were to tackle it, they'd just mould new sloped pieces for it, which is cheating but also would be a handy set of pieces to have available.
Yeah I would be curious how lego would do it. That's probably why they haven't. They made a tiny one for the architecture series but it has no taper :(
what about using these like 1x2 pieces with a bar on them and the other 1x1 one with a claw on it, put claws on straight panels and angle them however you want to get the right taper ? would probably introduce some issues at edges, but you'll be able to do nice art on the flat panels to reproduce symbols on the actual obelisks
The way i get tapers in my builds is I put the clip at the bottom and clip on the tapered side, corners might be a bit difficult and for the top the peak needs to have a little overhang over the core of the obelisk, its not super stable, and this is just a theory but if you do decide to try it, let me know how it works out
I think the tip of the obelisk might look better if you continued your gradual taper technique rather than use the defult lego slope pieces, the contrast between your gradual slope and a true slope is a little jarring. I think the overall structure could look better with that extra consistency. That being said this is a really impressive build nice work! Loving your content!
I'm in the process of building the Washington DC and I agree wit the Washington Monument. I have just decided on a simple tower, no tapering. It's far too complex to make it any tapering, not to mention that I would have to make it much larger, which would absolutely ruin the scale of my city sizing.
Edit: Nevermind, everyone has discussed this already :) I have no Lego terminology in my head, and haven't touched bricks since I was a kid, so bear with me. I'd probably go about this by using technic pins or claws/hinges to connect long, flat, built sections (like Star Wars ship wings) to a base and lean them into each other at the top. The only issue with this would be the gaps. If its four sided and every panel leans into each other at the top, that would leave large triangular gaps starting at the base and moving upward. Those would have to be filled in, either with gradual stair-steps or more leaning plates, none of which would look good.
I personally resigned to just imagining that the sides are sloped. Using one 2x2 brick a pair of 1x2x5 bricks and a 2x2x2 quadruple convex slope. And if I'm feeling fancy then a base made from: a 3x3 plate with one 1x1 plate in the center and 4 1x2 smooth tiles for the top layer and one 4x4 plate with a 2x2 plate in the center and and four 1x3 smooth tiles. With the top layer placed at what would be an offset but looks centered and the obelisk place the same way ontop.
I would use some internal hinges to get the perfect angles. Fill in the gaps with plates held with snot bricks. You get a smooth Obelisk any size that way.
OMG. I’m watching your video talking about this complex shape and how your trying to solve it by staking shapes and I literally have the answer on how to achieve that specific shape without the need of using too many bricks. You have just inspired me to take on this challenge. 🔥🔥🔥
Honestly i would have done snot plates on all sides with plates creating the slopes gradually. It would be simpler, but less gradual and more step-like. It also doesnt reach the corners so it isnt great.
Idea: use hinge plates, something like part 3149c01 might work! Edit: not sure how you would do the corners, but using hinges allows any sort of smooth angle needed.
@@bricksculpt I just did a moc-up and it looks decent when doing a single plate thickness at the edge. bear in mind you have to build the surfaces with a slight inward taper as well.
If you use jumpers you can reduce each side by half a stud. That's like 1.25 plates with no snot magic. Each level just needs to be one stud less each time. Check my math, but 2 studs is 5 plates. Half of that for one stud and another half because its going to be split between the two opposing sides. You have great solution. It just might be a good time to keep it simple.
not a lego guy, so sorry if i get the terminology wrong. why not use long flat pieces, and using technic pieces, make a pivot and thus angle it slightly?
My first thought is that it might be possible to combine using 4265c (technic bush 1/2 smooth) with 4032 (plate, round 2x2 with axle hole) by using axles and building off the plate. It takes 5 plates to equal 2 studs, but only 4 bushes, so the difference in width might allow for even less difference in the step between layers? Probably would need jumpers as well to make sure there are no gaps on the corners, but I’m not fully sure how to implement this idea.
A bush and a plate have a difference in width of 1/4 of a plate, so a stack of 1 bush and 4 plates (held together by an axle) is 0.25 plates taller than 5 plates stacked.
The plate slanted on the side I don’t think would like terrible even with all the studs. But it depends on what your going for. For the Washington Monument, this is probably best. But I imagine a more studsy look wouldn’t be terrible.
I think you are mixing up plates and studs, in your measurements: at 10:55, it's 7 studs across, not plates. But this is a very cool Lego maths exercice !
I think it would be an interesting challenge to have segments increasing by a half plate per level. I'm pretty sure I could build levels with a half plate increment, but I'm not sure I could connect them to a central core.
I might try and make an obelisk as some sort of mystical, magical terrain feature in a medieval/fantasy diorama that druids could worship or wizards could interact with. Great video though. Very interesting concept that I think you’ve executed very well. Kudos.
Most ancient obelisks were carved out of solid stone on their side and then stood up. I bet they weren't precise because you had to work with what you had.
Amazing that you did all that work to figure this out! I think that it's gonna be great when you scale it up to a more appropiate height. Then all that's left is to scale it down to fit in a city.😅 Good luck 🤪
11:49 Is it possible to build certain levels without the risk of being put on a list and dragged before the german constitutional court? That one truly looks like the favorite symbol of a certain austrian painter
I would consider using part 3937c01 or part (or it's larger varient) to attempt to capture the slope (by putting plate with tile on it), In theory this may work but I am unable to test it myself
ok ok... Make a row of plated-together 1x4x1 panels. Now make another one and press them up against each-others thin sides and fix them together (make 4 of these, 2 rows for each edge. These rows can be angled and held to each other with mixel/ball joints) Snot sloped bricks at the bottom end of both rows *(1 for each row = 2 on each edge = 8 in total)* in order to flatten the base. side note - you will have to monitor the height of the obelisk up to the pyramids base in order to use a specific slope brick. OK AND THEN 💀, place more 1x4x1 panels ontop of "pizza shaped" brick walls, repeat mirrored, snot together and then make 4 of these for each face. (the panels are used on the plate to make every side as flat as possible in this snotted scenario)
My problem with making an obelisk is just because there's no corner pieces that would do that either I mean I think you could do it just by using door rails at some point it might be something in the middle between there but I'm not exactly sure I'm just starting out with learning Lego or relearning Lego flexibility
To throw the idea in a totally different direction, could it maybe be made by a square spiral ramp, then combine four of those together? It’s just an idea.
@@bricksculptLike the internal ramp idea for building the pyramids. just at a steeper angle. Maybe the idea is far out, but many of my far out ideas have given me the best results.
This is amazing. Living in Boston, I’ve always wanted to attempt the Bunker Hill Monument and Zakim Bridge. They get close on a large scale one at the LEGO Discovery Center. Their steps aren’t as gradual though.
Here’s your Roman Empire thought of the day. when the Romans captured Egypt as a territory, Octavian liked the granite obelisks so much he had enormous pieces of granite carried by boat to Rome so they would have some too. Americans got the idea from Romans, who got the idea from Egyptians, who got the idea from ancient aliens obviously
I was thinking of building the second method, but with jumper plates in between to have it tapper up wards. I think that would be easier to build than the SNOT tech, but that's just my opinion.
Yes that would be better but each step would have 1 back difference between layers and effectively 1.5 plate difference on each side in the taper. The method I used is .5 plate difference on each side between layers. Easier to do with jumpers but not a great taper.
@@bricksculpt Well, the LEGO system does include string. So how do you feel about building straight edges (angled inwards) and then wrapping the shape in string to make the faces? The only real problem is that it limits your color to black. I feel like that's also the 1000 IQ strategy for LEGO spheres.
I honestly kinda like the tip being tan instead of white. Feels like a cap of gold, while the rest is bleached lye or marble, like how the pyramids would have looked when they were first built
He would be on the right track: the Washington Monument is capped with solid aluminum.
Yeah it doesn't look horrible. It's just crazy LEGO doesn't use that piece in white EVER!!!
@@bricksculpt I've seen folks make mention a few times about common-ish parts not being available in VERY common colours. Seems to be a bit of a "thing" with LEGO.
the Washington Monument is capped with a solid chunk of aluminum, which at the time, was the most expensive metal in the world. ...a couple years later they found an easier way to produce it and it sharply fell to being one of the cheapest metals
Imagine seeing g the pyramids when they were new and gleaming white, must have been stunning
"crazy snot magic" is a wild phrase out of context
Wild good right?
@@bricksculpt good, just odd. Lego is the only context where it makes sense
@@bricksculpt also, great video BTW! I'm a new subscriber of a couple days! Started with your door rail video
Thank you so much and welcome!
Yes and makes a lot of sense in Lego but sound wild out of context
This applies to Minecraft too. Obelisks re either extremely wide so the taper looks gradual, or they’re just straight until the pointy bit.
With the half-eaten cakes you can achieve 1/7 vertical slope with the shift on each block
@Pettree_Grassflower that's smart. How would you manage corners though, that only accounts for a side.
@@Pettree_GrassflowerThats smart, however they look like cakes.
@@VoxAstra-qk4jz Cakelisk
Actually there is a way... if you sacrifice the look from close range. You can apply sort of anti aliasing on edges which will help smooth out their look. Look up "Cooltwo" he came up with this and made videos explaining the topic
I honestly really like the crazy brickwork pattern visible on the surface of your final obelisk mockup
Thanks!
My method for these sorts of problems is hinged pieces at the bottom, with the sides built up as flat pieces. With a slope this gradual, it results in some truly cursed jumper technique to get anywhere near flush corners. Really love the layering technique here!
I would be curious to see how that comes out. If you try it please share!
I thought about that too at first, but you'd get some seriously ugly seams along the faces (or along the edges).
The best way I can think of making that work is to have the middle part of each face inset (by 1 plate/tile), with 2-stud-wide plates (5 plates in the orthogonal direction) or something similar running along the edges. That won't make a good replica of the Washington Monument, but it might look really good for an inscribed Egyptian obelisk (or a tapering sky scraper build).
Lol i was anticipating him to say this the entire time
@@RoyBoy_i3cit honestly surprises me he didn’t use this technique first
You can do slightl slopes easy, you can't do slight sloped corners though. This method would have giant gaps at the bottom corners
So now there might be something obvious I'm missing, but why not use the hinge brick element to create the outside slope. There's probably some awkward Lego math at the top but otherwise I think it would provide a reasonably smooth taper across the length.
I think it would be interesting to build four tapering sides with hinge plates, and connect them together. It would be a tricky challenge to deal with the gaps in middle of each face.
What about the corners? You'd get a bigger and bigger gap as you go down.
I'm tempted to try this--I think you could handle the corners ok by having panels on the edges that overlap an angled square column (or maybe the panels are on the corner). There'd need to be some snot to attach it all but it's a tried and true technique you see a lot on spaceship mocs for smooth tapered wings
@@danatronics9039 not if you use triangular plates
The taper at a 45 degree angle is the challenge. I couldn't figure out how to make that mathematically work with hinges. If you can figure it out please share I would love to see it done!
I love how 2014 this video feels Dispite being a 2024 vid.
Yeah I'm a no frills kinda video maker. I feel like the mrbeastafication of youtube has ruined so many good subject videos trying to add entertainment value.
@@bricksculptI love it! You earned my subscribe
Always fascinating to witness another builder's thought process when it come to solving these sorts of challenges. I would have approached it completely differently
That's the beauty in it right!
I’ve always struggled with tapering, so thanks for shedding light on this way of doing it! The power of brackets/half plates are evident
You are so welcome!
That tip piece did not come in white, it doesn't exist officially which is why it's being priced at €90 on Bricklink.
NINETY???
@@holderrrrnameusually factory workers who make rare pieces in rare colors for resell
Just 3d print one
Interesting but how do we really know? Considering Lego didn’t really print inside the anti-studs on early pieces and there are no studs on this piece..
11:49 Lego yes lego
It even has the german flag
@@ruohonleikkaaja It's just perfect 😂
Putting this in my "Cool vids to show the homies" playlist
Nice, I'm honored to have made the list!
Now I know what I’m building tonight! Need to build one of these with half a plate thickness change per level now. You can connect those levels up using a mix of jumper plates with SNOT bricks on them to get the quarter plate thickness change.
Yeah that's the next challenge
@@bricksculpt OK, so I’ve made 6 levels with half a plate thickness change per level now. This takes it from 8 bricks wide on the bottom layer to 7 bricks wide on the top layer. The step between levels is 0.8mm (1/32 inch). The trick to doing that is to alternate using an odd and even number of brick-widths with a different number of plate thicknesses per level. Mixing up the odd and even brick widths is the equivalent of adding in a bracket thickness each level. The core alternates between and odd an even number of brick-widths 1,2,3 & 4 (or 5,6,7,8 etc.) between layers, but combined with plates thickness added to that. If there’s interested I can complete it and upload a video. Thanks!
You really took this and ran with it! Great job I'd love to see it!
@@bricksculpt Added a short in response on my channel, thanks for the challenge
It feels like there should be a way to get to "checkpoints" where you can use the same inner series to get to a certain point, and have a repeatable technique to tune the outer diameter... but with these kinds of things it could just as easily be unique solutions basically forever
Yeah its possible. Luca Hermann showed it on my discord server.
Interesting concept. You went a totally different way than what I was initially thinking and so I may explore the obelisk now. My initial thinking was to use hinge plates/bricks at the base to then angle the walls inwards at the slight 5 degree-ish angle. Granted that would leave the corners kind of gap-py.
I was thinking hinges too.
If you can figure it out with hinges I want to see it! Please share
At least they make parts for some of the shapes you tried to accomplish. May not be smooth but I suppose it’s good enough. Great video! Again it’s something I’ve never considered making and am gonna try to in my own way to see how it turns out.
Thanks! Let me know how yours turns out.
Great video! I love the math side of LEGO so hear me out: If you built a brick tower that varied every 5 plates tall between 1x2 snot bricks and 2x2 brackets with a 5 plate tall smooth layer every 5th, you could add 1-2 plated tiles to the outside and get an easier obelisk that is exactly 10 times the height of it's base. Say the bottom is 5 plates tall, follow it up with a snot brick layer with a plate and a tile, then a bracket with a tile, then snot brick and tile, then recess a snot brick with two plates and a tile. The only issue I see is the corners of each needing door rails and other non-smooth elements to fill gaps, but as you say in the video, if it's built big enough it wouldn't ruin the design. I really like how you managed to take something as common as a children's toy (the stacking one not LEGO 😂) and turn it into a really cool design for MOC building, keep up the good work!!!
Try it out! It seems like you might have something there. Thanks for watching!
So i know you called it a babies toy, the stacking tower thing.....
But the actual Tower of Hanoi is a fascinating mathematical puzzle. One with a fairly rich history, also appeared in yugioh!
That's awesome I never realized it was a puzzle for adults! I love it and want to make one now!!!
I tried to build the shape of a bullet once, which (fun fact) is an obelisk shape as well for a silhouette. It is basically impossible without illegal techniques to make a very gradual obelisk-esque shape at that scale.
Omg that final product looks so amazing!!
Watch version 2 it's far better
Love this idea, it makes for shape that gives the impression of an absolutely smooth taper if you take enough layers between each. Very costly in terms of bricks, but a unique thing that might be worth making some day.
Thanks for showing us, there is so much stuff to learn with bricks!
Thanks for watching!
The key for things like this, are panels. You can hide jagged edges with panels, that can be on a straight edge.
Good luck. I can't see a way to make this shape fully filled out without gaps with panals or tiles if you can figure it out please share.
You can't make a tapered shaped panel though
This along with the “pieces” playlist is great! Your way of doing videos with having prebuilt sections that you just bring onto the table without any obnoxious editing is lovely! The bite size length of the videos are also pretty cool with them being 13-20mins long (though I wouldn’t mind a longer video!). Your commentary is also really entertaining!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you are enjoying the channel. I will try to keep them coming!
i'm gonne be honest, the fisty thought i had was to use something with bars and clips, and then make a large plate that represents the sides, you'd have to plate it all up and probably make something with the corners, maybe also need a internal support pillar. but it would look pretty straight and good i believe. but indeed this is a really cool challenge.
Before Lego made an Architecture skyline set of San Francisco, I made one of my own. I really struggled with the Transamerica pyramid, since it has that shallow slope like an obelisk. The long triangular pieces they used in the official model hadn't been made in White yet and your obelisk method only works on a large scale, so I went with using white rods for the edges and left the faces hollow, to just suggest the shape of the building instead of replicating it. The result was alright, but the official set is far better.
I think the title of the video is a bit misleading. Having built a few warships from COBI, I can attest, that smooth and round hull shapes are more difficult. Even with their collection of specialized wedges and slopes, they still can't do it. Neither could LEGO with their large RMS Titanic MOC. The same priciple also goes for cars. The best looking ones are the boxy cars like the Land Rover Defender.
I love how this is exactly what pyramids look like when they awaken. It even has a pole holding it toghether like a metaphor of the very special tree inside. Now it only needs a starry sphinx
Yoo. Fellow MM fan in the wild!
Interesting how the core has a repeat pattern as follows:
Even number of studs: attached
Even studs +1 plate: 2x2
Even studs +2 plates: 4x4
Odd number of studs: attached
Odd studs + 1 plate: 5x5
Odd studs +2 plates: 3x3
Even number of studs: see above (pattern repeats)
13:07 I like the yellow shape on the inside, it reminds me of the ancient solar symbol.
8 studs is also 6 studs + 5 plates. Might make some of those layers more easy to build, if you can have plates in all of them.
Might stop working at 6 studs, though; that would be 4 studs, 5 plates. Then again, that could just about fit around a 2x2 core.
Very clever techniques. You have a variety of knowleadges on Lego and you can help a lot of MOC builders like me to learn new things.
Thank you very much! I learn a lot from you guys watching and commenting also.
The only lego set where something tapers and it looks god is the john hancock center inthe chicago skyline
The obelisk
I didn't know where you were going with this, all I could imagine would have still been stepped and jagged, but you made it work very effectively. I imagine that if Lego themselves were to tackle it, they'd just mould new sloped pieces for it, which is cheating but also would be a handy set of pieces to have available.
Yeah I would be curious how lego would do it. That's probably why they haven't. They made a tiny one for the architecture series but it has no taper :(
I’m crying cause you could just used the Lego 1X2 vertical holder and the 1X2 Plate with stick, they are perfect for this
the conrners would be a problem, you could use the tapered plates for that but youd have to have studs on the edges
Can we just take a moment to appreciate this guy's work
You are too kind
Very much enjoyed this ❤
Glad you enjoyed it thanks for watching.
what about using these like 1x2 pieces with a bar on them and the other 1x1 one with a claw on it, put claws on straight panels and angle them however you want to get the right taper ? would probably introduce some issues at edges, but you'll be able to do nice art on the flat panels to reproduce symbols on the actual obelisks
Nice, interesting snot technique!
Thanks
That is some very cool SNOT! I love these videos. Thank you for the effort that you put into them.
Glad you like them, thanks you so much for you're support!
The way i get tapers in my builds is I put the clip at the bottom and clip on the tapered side, corners might be a bit difficult and for the top the peak needs to have a little overhang over the core of the obelisk, its not super stable, and this is just a theory but if you do decide to try it, let me know how it works out
I think the tip of the obelisk might look better if you continued your gradual taper technique rather than use the defult lego slope pieces, the contrast between your gradual slope and a true slope is a little jarring. I think the overall structure could look better with that extra consistency. That being said this is a really impressive build nice work! Loving your content!
Thank you so much for your support and the compliments! I could try that with the top not sure how it will look.
@@bricksculpt It may look better in my head 😂 but on a much larger scale I think it could definitely work
I'm in the process of building the Washington DC and I agree wit the Washington Monument. I have just decided on a simple tower, no tapering. It's far too complex to make it any tapering, not to mention that I would have to make it much larger, which would absolutely ruin the scale of my city sizing.
Edit: Nevermind, everyone has discussed this already :)
I have no Lego terminology in my head, and haven't touched bricks since I was a kid, so bear with me.
I'd probably go about this by using technic pins or claws/hinges to connect long, flat, built sections (like Star Wars ship wings) to a base and lean them into each other at the top. The only issue with this would be the gaps. If its four sided and every panel leans into each other at the top, that would leave large triangular gaps starting at the base and moving upward. Those would have to be filled in, either with gradual stair-steps or more leaning plates, none of which would look good.
I personally resigned to just imagining that the sides are sloped.
Using one 2x2 brick a pair of 1x2x5 bricks and a 2x2x2 quadruple convex slope.
And if I'm feeling fancy then a base made from: a 3x3 plate with one 1x1 plate in the center and 4 1x2 smooth tiles for the top layer and one 4x4 plate with a 2x2 plate in the center and and four 1x3 smooth tiles. With the top layer placed at what would be an offset but looks centered and the obelisk place the same way ontop.
I would use some internal hinges to get the perfect angles. Fill in the gaps with plates held with snot bricks. You get a smooth Obelisk any size that way.
You can use tile pieces and plates to make it visually look slightly tapered.
Version 2 coming soon
Genius design work! I'm really impressed by your ability to make this thing real!
Thank you very much!
This is art
Thanks!
Just love all these different shape and piece videos! Best series a moc builder could ask for!
Wow, thanks! I'm glad you are enjoying them!!
OMG. I’m watching your video talking about this complex shape and how your trying to solve it by staking shapes and I literally have the answer on how to achieve that specific shape without the need of using too many bricks. You have just inspired me to take on this challenge. 🔥🔥🔥
Do it! Also watch version 2 it's way better
Honestly i would have done snot plates on all sides with plates creating the slopes gradually. It would be simpler, but less gradual and more step-like. It also doesnt reach the corners so it isnt great.
Awesome. You nailed it. An innovative approach. This set should be a real lego set to buy. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
8:49 If you were to fill the seams with some other colour or backlit them it could look pretty cool.
Yeah that could be cool
Your mind is absolutely brilliant! you would blow many lego designers out of the water. you should try making the full version someday!
Thanks so much! Stay tuned and you will likely get your wish!
This seems like a really good exercise!
It was!
Idea: use hinge plates, something like part 3149c01 might work!
Edit: not sure how you would do the corners, but using hinges allows any sort of smooth angle needed.
The angle isn't the problem the corners are.
Looks really cool. Another way would be to use hinge pieces with long plates.
what about clips at the bottom to tilt the walls slightly? the corners are a problem tho, just a idea
Maybe not sure how they would integrate.
that shape on the thumbnail reminded me a lot of the dragon slayer from berserk. Would be wild if you actually built it
You can use those hinge plates to get any angle! just build the walls all sideways and you can attach and adjust the taper.
Yeah the corners will be quite challenging with that method.
@@bricksculpt I just did a moc-up and it looks decent when doing a single plate thickness at the edge. bear in mind you have to build the surfaces with a slight inward taper as well.
If you use jumpers you can reduce each side by half a stud. That's like 1.25 plates with no snot magic. Each level just needs to be one stud less each time. Check my math, but 2 studs is 5 plates. Half of that for one stud and another half because its going to be split between the two opposing sides. You have great solution. It just might be a good time to keep it simple.
Yeah that is definately the easy way to do it but it wont look as nice.
not a lego guy, so sorry if i get the terminology wrong. why not use long flat pieces, and using technic pieces, make a pivot and thus angle it slightly?
The angle isn't the issue the edges are
My first thought is that it might be possible to combine using 4265c (technic bush 1/2 smooth) with 4032 (plate, round 2x2 with axle hole) by using axles and building off the plate.
It takes 5 plates to equal 2 studs, but only 4 bushes, so the difference in width might allow for even less difference in the step between layers? Probably would need jumpers as well to make sure there are no gaps on the corners, but I’m not fully sure how to implement this idea.
A bush and a plate have a difference in width of 1/4 of a plate, so a stack of 1 bush and 4 plates (held together by an axle) is 0.25 plates taller than 5 plates stacked.
Try it out. I don't mess with technic much if at all myself.
In order to make the Washington Monument Minifigure scale it would need to be 158.7 inches (13.2 feet) tall or around 417 bricks
Next project!
The plate slanted on the side I don’t think would like terrible even with all the studs. But it depends on what your going for. For the Washington Monument, this is probably best. But I imagine a more studsy look wouldn’t be terrible.
Watch part 2!
Also great video idea!
Thanks!
stumbled into a LEGO rabbit hole... Was not disappointed lol. These videos are a crazy evolution compared to the stuff I made as a kid
Glad you liked the video thanks!
I think you are mixing up plates and studs, in your measurements: at 10:55, it's 7 studs across, not plates. But this is a very cool Lego maths exercice !
Yeah I may have misspoke. Thanks!
YESSS!!! Just yes! That's the kind of content I love!
Wow thank you so much!
I think it would be an interesting challenge to have segments increasing by a half plate per level. I'm pretty sure I could build levels with a half plate increment, but I'm not sure I could connect them to a central core.
Yeah that the next challenge.
first google search result was a good looking Washington monument from 2014
"Weathered white"
Same
Very cool approach. Now you have us thinking
Thanks!
I might try and make an obelisk as some sort of mystical, magical terrain feature in a medieval/fantasy diorama that druids could worship or wizards could interact with. Great video though. Very interesting concept that I think you’ve executed very well. Kudos.
That would be cool! All I'm thinking of right now is the druids dancing around the tiny Stonehenge in spinal tap :)
Next challenge, make it round and tapered for lighthouses for example. Especially difficult on a slightly smaller scale
I think I could do that easier because there are no corners.
interesting exercise. Would be interesting doing one with some hieroglyphs. Will definitely give it a go
That would be cool!
This video is so underrated this is art
Thanks so much!!!
Most ancient obelisks were carved out of solid stone on their side and then stood up. I bet they weren't precise because you had to work with what you had.
Amazing that you did all that work to figure this out! I think that it's gonna be great when you scale it up to a more appropiate height. Then all that's left is to scale it down to fit in a city.😅 Good luck 🤪
Yeah maybe someday
11:49 Is it possible to build certain levels without the risk of being put on a list and dragged before the german constitutional court?
That one truly looks like the favorite symbol of a certain austrian painter
Too cool. I look forward to your content the most. Super creative subjects.
Awesome! Thank you so much!
I would consider using part 3937c01 or part (or it's larger varient) to attempt to capture the slope (by putting plate with tile on it), In theory this may work but I am unable to test it myself
ok ok...
Make a row of plated-together 1x4x1 panels.
Now make another one and press them up against each-others thin sides and fix them together (make 4 of these, 2 rows for each edge. These rows can be angled and held to each other with mixel/ball joints)
Snot sloped bricks at the bottom end of both rows *(1 for each row = 2 on each edge = 8 in total)* in order to flatten the base.
side note - you will have to monitor the height of the obelisk up to the pyramids base in order to use a specific slope brick.
OK AND THEN 💀, place more 1x4x1 panels ontop of "pizza shaped" brick walls, repeat mirrored, snot together and then make 4 of these for each face.
(the panels are used on the plate to make every side as flat as possible in this snotted scenario)
That's a lot to disgest without seeing it. I appreciate the effort!
@@bricksculpt bend time and space to your will to find the enately perfect design hidden amongst the stars, it’s really that simple.
That’s a clever technique!
Thanks
My problem with making an obelisk is just because there's no corner pieces that would do that either I mean I think you could do it just by using door rails at some point it might be something in the middle between there but I'm not exactly sure I'm just starting out with learning Lego or relearning Lego flexibility
I’ve got an idea I need to try
Thought a new Monument Mythos dropped with that thumbnail
same
For the Washington Monument, the tip is Aluminum, so white wouldn't be right anyway.
that's incredible!
Thanks!
To throw the idea in a totally different direction, could it maybe be made by a square spiral ramp, then combine four of those together? It’s just an idea.
Please explain what you mean by square spiral?
@@bricksculptLike the internal ramp idea for building the pyramids. just at a steeper angle. Maybe the idea is far out, but many of my far out ideas have given me the best results.
Trying to imagine what the movable sloped pieces would looked like, but I feel like it would look too much like a pyramid.
This is amazing. Living in Boston, I’ve always wanted to attempt the Bunker Hill Monument and Zakim Bridge. They get close on a large scale one at the LEGO Discovery Center. Their steps aren’t as gradual though.
Thanks you! I would love to see theirs. Are there steps one brick width?
Beautiful thumbnail 👌
Thanks 😅
this makes sense because the nose of Lego x-wings always looks very slightly off
Here’s your Roman Empire thought of the day. when the Romans captured Egypt as a territory, Octavian liked the granite obelisks so much he had enormous pieces of granite carried by boat to Rome so they would have some too. Americans got the idea from Romans, who got the idea from Egyptians, who got the idea from ancient aliens obviously
And now it's just a phallic symbol of the new world order right?
Always has been
I was thinking of building the second method, but with jumper plates in between to have it tapper up wards. I think that would be easier to build than the SNOT tech, but that's just my opinion.
Yes that would be better but each step would have 1 back difference between layers and effectively 1.5 plate difference on each side in the taper. The method I used is .5 plate difference on each side between layers. Easier to do with jumpers but not a great taper.
@@bricksculpt Well that makes more sense.
Genius!!
Thanks
Really great solution.
Thanks!
Are stickers allowed? One could build four corners and use hinges to angle them inwards. Then use stickers to cover up the slits on the sides...
I like the idea. Definitely wouldn't fly with some if not most LEGO purists.
@@bricksculpt Well, the LEGO system does include string. So how do you feel about building straight edges (angled inwards) and then wrapping the shape in string to make the faces? The only real problem is that it limits your color to black.
I feel like that's also the 1000 IQ strategy for LEGO spheres.
I have been trying to make a lighthouse, but the taper is super tough. I have to try this!
That would be really cool