Your iron looks like the one I use. I have had problems with it being hot enough or too hot. I was able to see where you have yours set. I have had some success with soldering and not making a mess of it all. This was the first video of yours I have watched. Thanks for the how to tips.
Thanks for a well-made video with lots of practical tips. For anyone who thinks soldering small wires to cup connectors, as found on these XLR male and female plugs, in a tight space is easy, try it without using a vise, the right size solder, and a good soldering iron - and without his tips.
Been building cables for 50 years and we NEVER remove any of the braid. Canare and Mogami cable are the easiest to prep. The quadstar also provides the very best noise abatement.The fastest way to prep the braid is to use a straight dental pick to open the braid. Cut off the fibers and twist the braid tight. The braid is also trimmed slightly shorter than the phase conductors to act as a strain relief. some companies like to use heat shrink over the braid as insurance against any stray strands after some times in use. I have been using Miller 101 wire strippers and they are the easiest and fastest way to strip most any wire.
Enjoyed your video I always sleeve the shield or drain wire braid with heatsink yellow or green. And a piece of 6 or 6.5mm black heat shrink to keep the shield heat shrink in place and secure even with neutrik cord connectors. Serving the cable is the definition term Ie no possibility of a shield short in the future Always use a dental pick to separate the shield before tinning never reduce the cross section of the shield. Some extra flux if doing re work is also reccomended practice. Not a criticism of your technique just some tips and hints from experience in the field.
For our installs we use a lot of West Penn wire. For install wiring we use WestPenn Wire 454 same as Belden 9451. If I were going to make XLR cables then yes Belden 8412 is pretty nice. We don't use much Canare just because we don't have a good supply of it.
Hiii, nice video- question: I have a black, transparent and ground leads. The black is pin 3 on the male side? Or transparent is pin 3. Havent seen it before. Thanks already for getting back
Thanks , I know that its not hard but that is what i really needed to know . keep it up . question i see your using rosin core but do you ever use flux?
I have never needed Flux but some of my installers do prefer it. Especially when you need to solder a wire to a flat terminals like some Speakon connectors. Thanks for the comment.
Nice Job! However, this will only work on cheap very low heat-required solder and cables. If you use higher grade solder or cable it will not work as well. Also for higher-end jobs, the wire needs to be pressed on the metal connector as opposed to letting the higher resistant solder carry the signal flow.
Always, ALWAYS after soldering and installing the strain relief, push the wire just a tad towards the connector such that there's tiny bit of slack in each wire, and then put the boot on. Why? Because no strain relief is perfect and there will be a time when someone yanks at the cable enough to pull the wire out of the strain relief even just a bit, in that moment you don't want that force to act on the solder joints so they can fail... It also makes the connector more resilient against vibration and movement in general for the same reason.
Hi! Thanks for the video! How about XLR 4 Pin? I have a Mogami Quad 4 wires, and need to soldering to Neutrik 4 PIN Male to Female. Do I have to connect the shield protection wires to the Ground and the (4 wires Left+/Left-/Right+/right-). So I have to solder 5 X. Is it correct. Nobody do a video on UA-cam about that. Thank You!
To make it an even better connection, I would of used heatshrink tubbing for each connection. But it does look good, even if you twist it like you showed. I didn't see the wires touching, ... lol, you just said it at 7:50, lol.. But yeah, it would make it very secure.
I wouldn't thin out the ground wire, that increases the inductance of the ground connection and it's often critical to have very low inductance path to ground. I'm a sound tech as well as an electronics designer.
I don spend alot of money on irons now a days. This one works great and its cheap. b2b.parts-express.com/stahl-tools-ssvt-variable-temperature-soldering-iron-station--374-100
Sir i bought this cable in amazon but in female pin the positive and ground is jointed and connected in one pin. Another is negative and remaining one pin is connected with rod . Is that correct method, i don't know.
Watch not to keep the iron on too long when tinning the tip connectors. Very easy for the heat conduct to melt the surrounding plastic and result in an angled pin
Solder wasn't liquid and flew nicely when filling XLR soldering cups. It has to be reheated to a point when it is liquid and insert the wire inside cup. Don't move wire for a few seconds because this causes cold joints! This is basic explanation of it, i believe guy from this video didn't have enough heat on tip, or tip didn't transfer heat well enough to soldering cup. He was also moving wire while it was inside liquid solder which is a big no no in soldering. Not doing it this way causes cold joints, wires snaps, shorts, etc. So get solder liquid, add pre tinned wire to finish soldering. Don't move the wire while solder is cooling down for a few seconds.
Your iron looks like the one I use. I have had problems with it being hot enough or too hot. I was able to see where you have yours set. I have had some success with soldering and not making a mess of it all. This was the first video of yours I have watched. Thanks for the how to tips.
I try to move quickly so the iron doesn't melt the plastic. Usually hotter and moving quickly is better then letting it sit too long I have found.
Thanks for a well-made video with lots of practical tips. For anyone who thinks soldering small wires to cup connectors, as found on these XLR male and female plugs, in a tight space is easy, try it without using a vise, the right size solder, and a good soldering iron - and without his tips.
Been building cables for 50 years and we NEVER remove any of the braid. Canare and Mogami cable are the easiest to prep. The quadstar also provides the very best noise abatement.The fastest way to prep the braid is to use a straight dental pick to open the braid. Cut off the fibers and twist the braid tight. The braid is also trimmed slightly shorter than the phase conductors to act as a strain relief. some companies like to use heat shrink over the braid as insurance against any stray strands after some times in use.
I have been using Miller 101 wire strippers and they are the easiest and fastest way to strip most any wire.
Thanks for this,and here is a money saving tip, I got a block of wood and drilled holes in a various angles to hold the plugs, saves buying a vice.
Great video Ken. Thanks for such a clear explanation and close up views. Very helpful!!
Best video I've seen on this. Thanks!
Slick the longer I live the more I learn Thanks very helpful
Well done ! Using the vice is good adVICE . :-)
I like your video, you are amazing you are excellent you are the best of the world, I love u.
thanks for doing this! You're a pro.
"Female connectors have a really deep well" :D. Great video man. Tnx!
Enjoyed your video
I always sleeve the shield or drain wire braid with heatsink yellow or green.
And a piece of 6 or 6.5mm black heat shrink to keep the shield heat shrink in place and secure even with neutrik cord connectors.
Serving the cable is the definition term
Ie no possibility of a shield short in the future
Always use a dental pick to separate the shield before tinning never reduce the cross section of the shield.
Some extra flux if doing re work is also reccomended practice.
Not a criticism of your technique just some tips and hints from experience in the field.
Very helpful. Thanks for making the video!
Random question - what kind of mic cable do you prefer? Belden 8412 and Canare L-2T2S are popular shielded cables. What do you find yourself using?
For our installs we use a lot of West Penn wire. For install wiring we use WestPenn Wire 454 same as Belden 9451. If I were going to make XLR cables then yes Belden 8412 is pretty nice. We don't use much Canare just because we don't have a good supply of it.
Okay. Thanks for the insight!
Hiii, nice video- question: I have a black, transparent and ground leads. The black is pin 3 on the male side? Or transparent is pin 3. Havent seen it before. Thanks already for getting back
What's the name of that gage tool again? Sorry, I'm a beginner at this and not very familiar with names of some tools. Thanks for the video! :)
Thanks , I know that its not hard but that is what i really needed to know . keep it up . question i see your using rosin core but do you ever use flux?
I have never needed Flux but some of my installers do prefer it. Especially when you need to solder a wire to a flat terminals like some Speakon connectors. Thanks for the comment.
Nice Job! However, this will only work on cheap very low heat-required solder and cables. If you use higher grade solder or cable it will not work as well. Also for higher-end jobs, the wire needs to be pressed on the metal connector as opposed to letting the higher resistant solder carry the signal flow.
excellent young man.
ahhh How do you fix the female plug in part if those holes are loose inside jiggling or not contacting the male end?
Nice job Ken. Cheers mate.
Thank you so very much.
Always, ALWAYS after soldering and installing the strain relief, push the wire just a tad towards the connector such that there's tiny bit of slack in each wire, and then put the boot on. Why? Because no strain relief is perfect and there will be a time when someone yanks at the cable enough to pull the wire out of the strain relief even just a bit, in that moment you don't want that force to act on the solder joints so they can fail...
It also makes the connector more resilient against vibration and movement in general for the same reason.
Hi!
Thanks for the video!
How about XLR 4 Pin?
I have a Mogami Quad 4 wires, and need to soldering to Neutrik 4 PIN Male to Female. Do I have to connect the shield protection wires to the Ground and the (4 wires Left+/Left-/Right+/right-). So I have to solder 5 X. Is it correct.
Nobody do a video on UA-cam about that.
Thank You!
To make it an even better connection, I would of used heatshrink tubbing for each connection. But it does look good, even if you twist it like you showed. I didn't see the wires touching, ... lol, you just said it at 7:50, lol.. But yeah, it would make it very secure.
Hello! How many watts is your soldering iron? Thanks
I wouldn't thin out the ground wire, that increases the inductance of the ground connection and it's often critical to have very low inductance path to ground. I'm a sound tech as well as an electronics designer.
i dont like to solde the cables before i thinbk they fit better without soldering and they catch well
Can I do this to a piezo trigger which only has two connections? What happens if the piezo doesn't have a third wire? Thanks
What's the brand/model number of that soldering iron your using?
I don spend alot of money on irons now a days. This one works great and its cheap. b2b.parts-express.com/stahl-tools-ssvt-variable-temperature-soldering-iron-station--374-100
Very Good assembly OK.
thankyou....
Thanks big!!!!
Thanks!
I support you!
How do you disassemble the plug from the wire?
Horatio Bennett just heat up the desired terminal and pull the conductor, some flux might help
Is it the same for a 5 pin?
Sir i bought this cable in amazon but in female pin the positive and ground is jointed and connected in one pin. Another is negative and remaining one pin is connected with rod . Is that correct method, i don't know.
You have an unbalanced cable with that configuration.
How the hell do you get the female jack apart?
Watch not to keep the iron on too long when tinning the tip connectors. Very easy for the heat conduct to melt the surrounding plastic and result in an angled pin
testing xlr cauble with ohm meter
actually an ohm meter can be used for continuity test, feel like MacGyver now
What about heat shrink ?
Solder wasn't liquid and flew nicely when filling XLR soldering cups. It has to be reheated to a point when it is liquid and insert the wire inside cup. Don't move wire for a few seconds because this causes cold joints! This is basic explanation of it, i believe guy from this video didn't have enough heat on tip, or tip didn't transfer heat well enough to soldering cup. He was also moving wire while it was inside liquid solder which is a big no no in soldering. Not doing it this way causes cold joints, wires snaps, shorts, etc. So get solder liquid, add pre tinned wire to finish soldering. Don't move the wire while solder is cooling down for a few seconds.
How do you do this without swearing?
Nice video.. except that is SOLDER not SOWDER!
petty fucker!
нужно использовать пинцет.
Srry I saw a 2 and a half minute video that got to the point nice and fast. Btw 13 and a half minutes is not "quick"
Actually he's destroying the cable.
cut that thumbnail bro... lol