The best explanation I have ever read: well-organized, planned, and delivered. Plenty of cautions, pro and con advice for the novice. Thank you MJ Lorton!
This video presentation is easily the best instruction video on how to properly crimp cables and wires. Nothing else comes close. Excellent presentation!
what a bunch of nice people in the comment section for once. Thank you for this informative low pase well explained tutorial. This is timeless and you deserve all the credits for sharing this with us.
I know this video was posted a long time ago but it’s still one of the best. Quick contribution: if you’re using colored shrink tubing to mark a cable (discussed at 18:17) but still want to be able to see the crimp, shrink the colored tubing around the outer jacket up to the strip point. Then crimp and pull up a second piece of transparent tubing to overlap the first and cover the connector. It’s not much of a tip but... for what it’s worth.
Incredibliy thorough! Very impressive. I've used just about every connector you show and I have most of the tools you show as well. But even with my experience I couldn't have explained it as thoroughly as you did. Well done! I too used to solder some crimp connectors (after crimping) but I read below that that can actually worsen the connection/connector. I didn't know that. I do that because I've seen too many crimp connectors (in automotive use) fail due to corrosion. But the comments made by "Executive" below enlightened me. Up until now I would never have guessed that a crimp connection could be better than a soldered connection. Still, I would say it depends upon the application and how carefully it is soldered. Mostly what I want to say is "EXCELLENT VIDEO"! When I started I thought "I can't sit through 31+ minutes of something I already know" but now I'm very glad that I did!
Very good presentation. May I suggest two modifications. 1. We always use a bit of no-ox inside the ferrule and on the wire strands to prevent any future oxidation or dis-simular metal corrosion. 2. The crimp dimple should be put on the side of the ferrule without the seam. Our inspectors look for a bit of wire and some evidence of the No-Ox through the witness hole. Love the clear heat shrink usage, the only way to go. Many Thanks.
Thanks for a wonderful video. I had used a hair dryer to heat the heat shrink in the past while connecting a cable to a fuel pump and it worked. Those days I never heard of a hot air gun that is shown towards the end of this video. Well done providing useful tips.
I’ve never used a connector in my 60 years, but I certainly feel confident enough to approach this aspect of my small small projects now. A brilliantly comprehensive tutorial, thank you.
One of the best videos I have followed in last 2 years. Really on the mark and very easy to understand and see the technique. Thank you for sharing this. 73
I never, ever, ever thought I would ever need to watch a video about crimping; life is too short! However, here I am having to make up a set of 16mm battery cables for my caravan (I also never, ever, ever thought I would own a caravan!). Well presented, informative video; thanks for sharing!
I have been looking everywhere for this level of detail and explanation. I am an old woman just getting interested in solar with no experience with electricity and I want to learn. This type of presentation is beyond spectacular. I don't see it listed on any of your playlists but I would like to see more of this basic level of information with all the detail you have provided in this video. You are a phenomenal teacher. How can I start from below ground zero to learn all about electricity and wiring for off grid living? Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
I much prefer using the hexagonal crimper for the bigger lugs and have used them often on up to 300mm square where you'd use a hydraulic crimper. One thing I feel I must mention is that as far as I'm concerned, you have a bit too much heat shrink on the 10mm square lug as you always want to keep the foot of the lug clear. Should you want to bolt that lug to a flat surface or a copper bar, you would have a inferior connection due to the heat shrink encroaching onto the foot of the lug and thus ending up sandwiched between the two conductive surfaces. The foot of the lug is sized so as to properly conduct the rated full load amperage of the cable through the area of the foot of the lug. I also like keeping the inspection window clear. Apart from the above, it is a superb video covering most all of the essentials of doing it right. Thank you :-)
Thank you so much for the detail instructions. My first time attempting to fix the wire that connects to the lawn mower battery, which had broken off at the connecting place. I don't know what all you call that stuff, but I did fix it, and charged my battery and mowed my back yard! It worked, even if I didn't have the exact tools to do it the way you showed. Yea! Now I won't have to wait to get a man to do it! Thank you, thank you, and thank you.
Great video. A couple suggestion. It wasn't clear that there are different crimpers for insulated vs non-insulated connectors. In addition, the crimp (indentation) should be made on the side away from the seam of the connector.
Sir, you truly are an expert in this topic. It is a shame that others on UA-cam give instruction on poor methods of crimping connectors. Keep on YouTubing and Cheers!
Thank you for your tutorial and well-thought-out steps. I feel sufficiently schooled for my overland solar/dual battery/accessory install. It's entirely possible that your video will save lives, if it hasn't already. Thanks again . . . you are a gifted teacher.
I know I'm A little simple or a dits but I have been having problems with crimping to the point of youtube and your video.. You have done a great job here and I have learned a lot and now I don't feel so ditsey. Thanks Lee
I've found rotating the connector in a common direction while inserting it on the bare copper keeps the strands tight and prevents strands from coming loose.
Very well done and thorough video. The one thing I would point out, that was NOT included, is regarding properly choosing the size of your shrink tube since it also must be sized properly. I believe most of it shrinks to about 50% of it's initial size. That may not be universal, however. Again, thanks for a very informative video.
I buy both 2:1 and 3:1 heat shrink for different jobs, the 3:1 is great for smaller gauge wires like speaker cables etc but tends to tear later if you don't shrink it completely and it gets hot later causing conductive things to pop out so make sure you shrink it all the way when you install it.
Hands down the best video on the topic. I needed this info to learn how to correctly connect a ham radio to a power supply. The part about the current rating was particularly helpful and the one about not tinning the stranded wire. Very helpful indeed!
My father taught me many things about electricity but not about making good crimped connectors. Excellent video. I've had a container of vinyl insulated terminals for years and never knew how to attach them properly. After watching this video I ordered some die sets for a crimper I have (for PowerPoles) and had some fun tonight.
Strange , the man took half hour to explain everything in detail without making any mistakes but still 222 dislikes from those who think that the video has many mistakes .People never appreciate effort and time that the video maker spend for us and dislikes the video over small matters , shame on those who disliked the video and discouraged the maker to teach us , shame on enemies of knowledge ,
+Name Name - Mass, Length, and Time are the three fundamental mechanical units from which all other mechanical units are derived. Everywhere that he refers to the fit of wire in the connector, he is referring to the dimensions of those objects (fundamental mechanical unit: length). Mechanical units & properties are one of the many subsets of all of the physical units, with other sub-categories including electrical, optical, thermal, chemical, etc. A conversation regarding whether or not a connector "electrically" fits the wire would be an entirely separate discussion from whether it "mechanically" fits the wire, but both of these discussions would be in the realm of whether or not it "physically" fits the wire. "Mechanically" was certainly the correct term for him to use. "Physically", while also correct, is significantly less specific.
@@dv2915 Like it or not, that's the whole point of UA-cam. Putting a dislike on a UA-cam video for that reason is quite counterproductive, you're only helping UA-cam grow.
I have never done any cramping before, or anything electrical related. Without this video I would’ve made some very amateur mistakes. Thank you so much for this.
Thank you for doing this; a very easy-paced, clearly explained and thoroughly demonstrated tutorial. So much so that it is still accurate and complete 8 years later.👍👍
I like how you explained that things happen invariably. Most people don’t talk about problems that occur invariably. In fact, I rarely ever even hear anyone say invariably. You are obviously very aware of those things that invariably happen, and now I’m a little more aware, too. Thank you for all the important information about certain events that are likely to take place invariably 👍🏿
Hi Martin, I am not sure if this can be an issue or not, but I think touching the wires with the fingers before crimping the terminals can cause some oxidation on the contacts. Wouldn’t be better to clean them with isopropyl Alcohol before? Nice video as usual. Thanks, Marcelo.
I've done complete wiring harnesses for cars and thought back on how many errors I made after watching this. Who among us hasn't twisted a connector on to the wrong gauge wire? LOL. Very informative and well done video. Thank you.
Excellent video! easy to follow, detailed just right, clearly shows the right way to join wires and gives the rationale for the way you did it (often overlooked in instructional videos). thank you!
Very nicely explained with all the pitfalls covered. Thank you for sharing your skills and for your thoroughness. I always wanted to learn how to crimp properly. It is a very practical skill to have.
Instead of the usual "auto store" plastic-sleeved splices and lugs you can do as the pros do and use naked crimp connectors then heat shrink over them. I buy in bulk off Ebay and store my terminals and splices in clear plastic fishing tackle boxes for convenience. Naked connectors cost less too and take up far less storage space. Have fun!
@Vyacheslav Every aircraft avionics tech to begin with (I was one fixing fighters for Uncle Sam and am also an AMT) because crimps were found to be less brittle than soldered pins and splices while heat shrink excludes moisture which creates high resistance due to corrosion. That's why bulk bare connectors exist along with adhesive-lined polyolefin heat shrink tubing (available at any industrial supply). Crimps will do in highly protected environments (industry inside electrical boxes) but for anything subject to moisture and flex and/or where the bulk of say crimp splicing a cable repair is an issue crimp and heat shrink get the nod and they're an upgrade elsewhere. Unlike cheap "press fit" connectors, modern connectors are supplied like these examples with precut heat shrink sleeves which being transparent permit inspection of the joint. Opaque cheap auto store style splices block visual inspection leaving one to guess by the condition of exposed wire strands. ua-cam.com/video/ArOHcJ4bBqM/v-deo.html Non-aviation example: ua-cam.com/video/IaahjJm4QCo/v-deo.html Cheap connectors have their place but the other options (which are a bit more work) aren't used in more demanding applications without reason.
Motor vehicle and trailers where I most use stranded wire and crimped on connector. I never sold them any more. My experience is that wire in time will fail at the point where the solder wicked back under the insulation due to work hardening. The purpose of solder where connection is both electrically and mechanically secure is to protect it from the environment. That can be done with the proper application of * quality* electrical tape
Very informative, really embraces the spirit of UA-cam. Stuff the detractors, you've done a great job mate, thanks, already bought the tools and can't wait to get started.
This is a really good video, it covers a lot of areas well. It would have been good to elaborate on why crimped connections are more "efficient" than solder connections (mechanical strength, better able to withstand vibration (solder can crack under mechanical stress or vibration)). It would also have been a good idea to note that the crimping tools for insulated crimp terminals ARE NOT the same as the tools for uninsulated crimp terminals.
WOW, probably the best one of these videos I have seen on this subject. All the little details I never thought about or knew about and an explanation of the use of the better crimping and stripping tools was useful.
Actually you can Release Before You are done or have completely ratcheted the crimp tool. Release once you are done (15:18) There should be a small thumb lever on the tool witch will release the jaws at any point. I have not seen a ratchet style crimping tool with out one. Thankx 4 the Vid.
Look up/Google " Large Crimp Validation Poster " . Very helpful wall chart. Explains the importance of a gas tight seal on a crimped connection. I used to be an Application Tooling Product Manager with Tyco in Germany/Bensheim. Take it from me, only use correctly sized wire for terminals and the correct crimp tooling. All Tyco tools are specified for specific tyco connectors. Crimp tooling from China is unreliable mechanically and crimp specification wise. Crimpimg RGB fastons or ring terminals for automotive use....Use the correct tool to get a long lasting air/gas tight connection.
MrFreddiew1 Absolutely, most people have never heard that term, gas tight. Well I might make another comment about that term but ha ha I’ll be PC here. Once you explain that term to people like using a 66 block connector for a insulation displacing connection of a phone wire then sometimes the lightbulb goes off and people understand.
As dry as this may be for some I quite enjoyed it. I am blowing fuses on my 12 V power system in my new van build under extreme loads. My inverter pulls a solid 200 amps continuous and by the time this current reaches the fuse at the batteries it is most likely much higher do to some poor connections even though I knew how important these connections are, I feel I could have done better. So I'm going to do some resistance measuring and hopefully lower the heat at the fuse by lowering the increase in amperage (due to heat) at the connections. I wish I had someone like you to help me.
FYI, CURRENT stays the same; when resistance goes up at a connector, there is greater Voltage drop across the connector (E=IR), so net drop in voltage at the load.
As a complete novice - thank you - I now feel I can deal with this. I particularly appreciated the way you highlighted possible faults/ errors -- which I am sure I would've done. Again thank you -- well done.
A very nice and informative video! I am glad to see that you talked about the green wire as being earth ground and not a normal current/voltage carrying wire. I would clean up the subtitles as several words were mistaken by the computer in translating what you said. All in all, a great video! Thanks!
The cheap stripers you first showed, you demonstrated the wire in the stripers backwards. Now I know you can strip wire that way but you'll likely leave an frayed uneven cut. If you look at the second cutter you demonstrated with you should note the angle the cutter uses to strip the wire. This too should be the same with the cheap striper. Nice video, thx 4 sharing.
My fancy computer lets me skip to any part AND speed up the video in these cases. I know it sounds crazy, but I can also select shorter videos. It's because I'm rich, rockin the $200 laptop.
I myself work in the manufacturing field specifically on the cable area and for anybody that wants to learn this is a great video, of course some of the european components and tools could be a little different that the american components and tools but the principals are the same.
Simon K. It's actually acceptable under UK regs at least to use g/y for a non-ground/earth purpose if reidentified at each end. I do NOT like the idea though.
1. You would also never assume a red/brown/black/grey colored cable is live either. You always measure before work and double check connections at the ends. 2. You always count the person that worked on that gear previously is a baboon with a hairdo. p.S. I have never been disappointed on the latter as can be attested by the local fire department and barber's shop
He covered all that, and he made up a cable for something he needed for batteries, not for house village. You know you can do whatever you want at home as long as you know what the hell you’re doing.
I am relatively new to make my own wiring and electronic projects but I have found that not all wire insulation is the same when you go to strip a wire. So when using those cheaper wire striper's I find that if you go the gauge up on stranded wire part of the strippers you won't lose any pieces from that section of striped wire. So if the wire says it's 18 Awg I go down to 16 Awg place wire in the striper give a twist and pull. no loose or small cut pieces of wire.
Excellent video, I do a lot of crimping in automotive applications mostly JST/Micro Timer etc, if anyone needs any help with those I can advise. Easy rule.. crimp connectors and solder only when joining wires
By any chance, do you know if I can hook up a 1500 watt inverter with a 4 gauge wire set up to 2 gauge battery cables? Will this be safe? I know I can't do it the other way around but I'm not sure if the appliance has a smaller wire will it still be safe? Thank you for your answer in advance.
@@sweetpadre That will be fine. Your inverter has a fuse which will protect it from over-current. Use as large a supply wire as you like - it won't make a difference as long as you are 4ga or larger.
You should avoid touching the bare conductors with your fingers. The oils on your fingers will interfere with your connection and possibly even cause corrosion. The only time I use the crimper/stripper tool, like the "RACO" blue-handled one you have, is when I want to verify the size and thread pitch of a screw. I never use those tools for stripping or crimping, they do not make reliable connections. Colored shrink tubing is sometimes used to disguise inferior work. We don't use it where I work, as all our work is inspected. I have used it with good results at home, although it is not preferred. It should be sized correctly and applied with a heat gun, not a flame, as the tubing can char, crack, and burn, leaving uninsulated areas in your connections. It is unnecessary to have a very long piece of tubing. Depending on the wire gauge, 5-15 mm may be adequate tubing behind the lug and up onto the wire insulation. This will also permit the wire to be routed to its destination more easily. (I've been NASA certified since 1996 and have worked in aerospace since the late 80's).
I call bull-shizzle on your NASA cert claim. I'm sure at any NASA level, there is some sort of National Secrets Legislation that prevents disclosing any information about employment.....that leaves wanna-be, dip-shits like you pounding out "meadow muffins" on the keyboard.
Nice explanations, nice manber. I think it ishelpful in this topic to explain cold fusion, and how that effect makes crimping stronger than soldering. Akong with that is the importance of clean contact surface between wire and connector. This gives the reason for some of the important aspects to the process that you highlighted.
Handy video, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Putting on crimps seems a simple thing to do, but like you say, it needs to be done correctly. Unfortunately, a lot of people do it the wrong way, I'm guilty of doing the solder tinning before crimping. - won't be doing that again now you've explained why. Regards David.
on your cheaper crimper the part marked 1.5,2.5,6mm are for non insulated crimps the coloured marks are for the insulated version.I'm looking for a decent set of crimpers to do 4mm cable,but the yellow crimps that they sell are for sizes 4 to 6 but I cant get a consistently good crimp.I've even tried to crimp down the yellow crimps with the 2.5 jaws but it just damages the insulation and still doesn't hold the wire sufficiently for my liking.
I have just got a ten ton hydraulic crimper set for the larger lugs like those used on starter motors etc, available at very reasonable prices these days,I paid around £30-00 and they are excellent.
The best explanation I have ever read: well-organized, planned, and delivered. Plenty of cautions, pro and con advice for the novice. Thank you MJ Lorton!
Are you muting it and then reading the subtitles or what? :D
I didn't realize how much I did not know about using proper tools and technique for crimping wire connectors until watching this video. Thank you!
This video presentation is easily the best instruction video on how to properly crimp cables and wires. Nothing else comes close. Excellent presentation!
It's not very often that I enjoy a 30 min. video all the way through, but this video was exceptional. Thank you!
what a bunch of nice people in the comment section for once. Thank you for this informative low pase well explained tutorial. This is timeless and you deserve all the credits for sharing this with us.
Lots and lots of videos on crimping, yours is the only one that's worth watching. Thanks for posting. Regards from Colombia!
This is a great video. Are you still an a$$ kisse
I know this video was posted a long time ago but it’s still one of the best. Quick contribution: if you’re using colored shrink tubing to mark a cable (discussed at 18:17) but still want to be able to see the crimp, shrink the colored tubing around the outer jacket up to the strip point. Then crimp and pull up a second piece of transparent tubing to overlap the first and cover the connector. It’s not much of a tip but... for what it’s worth.
Top quality video in terms of explanation, every small details, technical tips and reasoning, great clear voice .
Compliments !!
Incredibliy thorough! Very impressive. I've used just about every connector you show and I have most of the tools you show as well. But even with my experience I couldn't have explained it as thoroughly as you did. Well done! I too used to solder some crimp connectors (after crimping) but I read below that that can actually worsen the connection/connector. I didn't know that. I do that because I've seen too many crimp connectors (in automotive use) fail due to corrosion. But the comments made by "Executive" below enlightened me. Up until now I would never have guessed that a crimp connection could be better than a soldered connection. Still, I would say it depends upon the application and how carefully it is soldered. Mostly what I want to say is "EXCELLENT VIDEO"! When I started I thought "I can't sit through 31+ minutes of something I already know" but now I'm very glad that I did!
Very good presentation. May I suggest two modifications. 1. We always use a bit of no-ox inside the ferrule and on the wire strands to prevent any future oxidation or dis-simular metal corrosion. 2. The crimp dimple should be put on the side of the ferrule without the seam. Our inspectors look for a bit of wire and some evidence of the No-Ox through the witness hole. Love the clear heat shrink usage, the only way to go.
Many Thanks.
Many thanks. I made some ugly wire connections, then came here. Your patience helps me, carefully walking through all the bits I bodged up!
Thanks for a wonderful video. I had used a hair dryer to heat the heat shrink in the past while connecting a cable to a fuel pump and it worked. Those days I never heard of a hot air gun that is shown towards the end of this video. Well done providing useful tips.
I’ve never used a connector in my 60 years, but I certainly feel confident enough to approach this aspect of my small small projects now. A brilliantly comprehensive tutorial, thank you.
From 10 years into the fiture, nicely done. Very nicely done.
One of the best videos I have followed in last 2 years. Really on the mark and very easy to understand and see the technique. Thank you for sharing this. 73
I never, ever, ever thought I would ever need to watch a video about crimping; life is too short! However, here I am having to make up a set of 16mm battery cables for my caravan (I also never, ever, ever thought I would own a caravan!). Well presented, informative video; thanks for sharing!
Very well made and explained video on an important issue I see being done wrongly by professionals …. Thank you for the video!
Yes he did a very good job of explaining many details to look for. It looks like he’s following NASA practices and standards.
I have been looking everywhere for this level of detail and explanation. I am an old woman just getting interested in solar with no experience with electricity and I want to learn. This type of presentation is beyond spectacular. I don't see it listed on any of your playlists but I would like to see more of this basic level of information with all the detail you have provided in this video. You are a phenomenal teacher. How can I start from below ground zero to learn all about electricity and wiring for off grid living? Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
I much prefer using the hexagonal crimper for the bigger lugs and have used them often on up to 300mm square where you'd use a hydraulic crimper. One thing I feel I must mention is that as far as I'm concerned, you have a bit too much heat shrink on the 10mm square lug as you always want to keep the foot of the lug clear. Should you want to bolt that lug to a flat surface or a copper bar, you would have a inferior connection due to the heat shrink encroaching onto the foot of the lug and thus ending up sandwiched between the two conductive surfaces. The foot of the lug is sized so as to properly conduct the rated full load amperage of the cable through the area of the foot of the lug. I also like keeping the inspection window clear.
Apart from the above, it is a superb video covering most all of the essentials of doing it right. Thank you :-)
true but if that is an issue the heatshrink can be trimmed easily with an exacto blade or stanley knife so hardly an issue
Thank you so much for the detail instructions. My first time attempting to fix the wire that connects to the lawn mower battery, which had broken off at the connecting place. I don't know what all you call that stuff, but I did fix it, and charged my battery and mowed my back yard! It worked, even if I didn't have the exact tools to do it the way you showed. Yea! Now I won't have to wait to get a man to do it! Thank you, thank you, and thank you.
Great video. A couple suggestion. It wasn't clear that there are different crimpers for insulated vs non-insulated connectors. In addition, the crimp (indentation) should be made on the side away from the seam of the connector.
Sir, you truly are an expert in this topic. It is a shame that others on UA-cam give instruction on poor methods of crimping connectors. Keep on YouTubing and Cheers!
Thank you for your tutorial and well-thought-out steps. I feel sufficiently schooled for my overland solar/dual battery/accessory install. It's entirely possible that your video will save lives, if it hasn't already. Thanks again . . . you are a gifted teacher.
I know I'm A little simple or a dits but I have been having problems with crimping to the point of youtube and your video.. You have done a great job here and I have learned a lot and now I don't feel so ditsey. Thanks Lee
I've found rotating the connector in a common direction while inserting it on the bare copper keeps the strands tight and prevents strands from coming loose.
Nice easy to learn instructions. So many people overexsplain themselves but you did a great job.
Very well done and thorough video. The one thing I would point out, that was NOT included, is regarding properly choosing the size of your shrink tube since it also must be sized properly. I believe most of it shrinks to about 50% of it's initial size. That may not be universal, however.
Again, thanks for a very informative video.
Pappa Bob Thanks for the information and feedback.
I buy both 2:1 and 3:1 heat shrink for different jobs, the 3:1 is great for smaller gauge wires like speaker cables etc but tends to tear later if you don't shrink it completely and it gets hot later causing conductive things to pop out so make sure you shrink it all the way when you install it.
got some really nice crimpers
really sux havin to strain
put both handles into the vice and spin :D
Hands down the best video on the topic. I needed this info to learn how to correctly connect a ham radio to a power supply. The part about the current rating was particularly helpful and the one about not tinning the stranded wire. Very helpful indeed!
Legend has it MJLORTON has so many meters, God came by to borrow some when he was inventing electricity
There are loads of videos on this subject but yours is by far the best presented, very useful - thank you.
This is one of the best videos you've done. I've made that soldering mistake before and a number of others you mention. This was very helpful...
My father taught me many things about electricity but not about making good crimped connectors. Excellent video. I've had a container of vinyl insulated terminals for years and never knew how to attach them properly. After watching this video I ordered some die sets for a crimper I have (for PowerPoles) and had some fun tonight.
Strange , the man took half hour to explain everything in detail without making any mistakes but still 222 dislikes from those who think that the video has many mistakes .People never appreciate effort and time that the video maker spend for us and dislikes the video over small matters , shame on those who disliked the video and discouraged the maker to teach us , shame on enemies of knowledge ,
+Name Name - Mass, Length, and Time are the three fundamental mechanical units from which all other mechanical units are derived. Everywhere that he refers to the fit of wire in the connector, he is referring to the dimensions of those objects (fundamental mechanical unit: length). Mechanical units & properties are one of the many subsets of all of the physical units, with other sub-categories including electrical, optical, thermal, chemical, etc. A conversation regarding whether or not a connector "electrically" fits the wire would be an entirely separate discussion from whether it "mechanically" fits the wire, but both of these discussions would be in the realm of whether or not it "physically" fits the wire. "Mechanically" was certainly the correct term for him to use. "Physically", while also correct, is significantly less specific.
phuck ewe lol british accent...guess you dont get out much
@phuck ewe He meant that it's obviously not British, it's South African.
The maker of this video discloses some essential secrets of the trade to the wider public. It is not difficult to see why someone might not like that.
@@dv2915 Like it or not, that's the whole point of UA-cam. Putting a dislike on a UA-cam video for that reason is quite counterproductive, you're only helping UA-cam grow.
I have never done any cramping before, or anything electrical related. Without this video I would’ve made some very amateur mistakes. Thank you so much for this.
Thank you for doing this; a very easy-paced, clearly explained and thoroughly demonstrated tutorial. So much so that it is still accurate and complete 8 years later.👍👍
I really do miss the good old youtube tutorials like this
I like how you explained that things happen invariably. Most people don’t talk about problems that occur invariably. In fact, I rarely ever even hear anyone say invariably. You are obviously very aware of those things that invariably happen, and now I’m a little more aware, too. Thank you for all the important information about certain events that are likely to take place invariably 👍🏿
Hi Martin, I am not sure if this can be an issue or not, but I think touching the wires with the fingers before crimping the terminals can cause some oxidation on the contacts. Wouldn’t be better to clean them with isopropyl Alcohol before?
Nice video as usual.
Thanks,
Marcelo.
I've done complete wiring harnesses for cars and thought back on how many errors I made after watching this. Who among us hasn't twisted a connector on to the wrong gauge wire? LOL.
Very informative and well done video. Thank you.
Excellent video! easy to follow, detailed just right, clearly shows the right way to join wires and gives the rationale for the way you did it (often overlooked in instructional videos). thank you!
excellent and clear video teaching how to properly crimp and what pitfalls to avoid! thank you so much!
Very nicely explained with all the pitfalls covered. Thank you for sharing your skills and for your thoroughness. I always wanted to learn how to crimp properly. It is a very practical skill to have.
Best instructional video ever. Thanks so much Mate. You deserve a cuppa and a bisquit after that excellent video!
Instead of the usual "auto store" plastic-sleeved splices and lugs you can do as the pros do and use naked crimp connectors then heat shrink over them. I buy in bulk off Ebay and store my terminals and splices in clear plastic fishing tackle boxes for convenience. Naked connectors cost less too and take up far less storage space. Have fun!
@Vyacheslav Every aircraft avionics tech to begin with (I was one fixing fighters for Uncle Sam and am also an AMT) because crimps were found to be less brittle than soldered pins and splices while heat shrink excludes moisture which creates high resistance due to corrosion. That's why bulk bare connectors exist along with adhesive-lined polyolefin heat shrink tubing (available at any industrial supply). Crimps will do in highly protected environments (industry inside electrical boxes) but for anything subject to moisture and flex and/or where the bulk of say crimp splicing a cable repair is an issue crimp and heat shrink get the nod and they're an upgrade elsewhere. Unlike cheap "press fit" connectors, modern connectors are supplied like these examples with precut heat shrink sleeves which being transparent permit inspection of the joint.
Opaque cheap auto store style splices block visual inspection leaving one to guess by the condition of exposed wire strands. ua-cam.com/video/ArOHcJ4bBqM/v-deo.html
Non-aviation example:
ua-cam.com/video/IaahjJm4QCo/v-deo.html
Cheap connectors have their place but the other options (which are a bit more work) aren't used in more demanding applications without reason.
Sir, what you have taught I think comes from years of experience. It gives me immense pleasure and a very good tutorial. Awesome.
The Best Crimping / Wiring Video on UA-cam, thank you so much!
you make good teacher good one
Took me many years to learn what is shown here, investing in the right tools has certainly made the job easier.
For a newbie to this, I found your video extremely helpful... giving suggestions what to and not to do. Thanks!
Great explanation. Whoever can learn but not whoever can teach. And you do both great. Great teacher.
Nice detail on the how to, I almost always add solder to my crimps to make a good connection too, thank for sharing!
Godspeed,
Raz
ElRazTheGreat1 Thanks for the feedback Raz.
Motor vehicle and trailers where I most use stranded wire and crimped on connector. I never sold them any more. My experience is that wire in time will fail at the point where the solder wicked back under the insulation due to work hardening. The purpose of solder where connection is both electrically and mechanically secure is to protect it from the environment. That can be done with the proper application of * quality* electrical tape
Thank you, this is informative and straightforward tutorial for crimping and using heat shrink 😃
I'm glad you made the point of how crimping can actually provide a more efficient connection than soldering...
Why? Did somebody make fun of you for crimping?
Thanks for that detail about which end of the crimp goes into the differently-shaped jaws. Always wondered which way round that should be.
Very informative, really embraces the spirit of UA-cam. Stuff the detractors, you've done a great job mate, thanks, already bought the tools and can't wait to get started.
Thanks for the post Andy, appreciated.
reading through comments and I haven't come across a detractor yet!
Great video for the electronic novice like me to understand the proper way to crimp proper connections. Thank you!
This is a really good video, it covers a lot of areas well.
It would have been good to elaborate on why crimped connections are more "efficient" than solder connections (mechanical strength, better able to withstand vibration (solder can crack under mechanical stress or vibration)). It would also have been a good idea to note that the crimping tools for insulated crimp terminals ARE NOT the same as the tools for uninsulated crimp terminals.
WOW, probably the best one of these videos I have seen on this subject. All the little details I never thought about or knew about and an explanation of the use of the better crimping and stripping tools was useful.
A great video for us novices. Many thanks. I feel I know enough to crimp connectors and heat shrink properly.
no do not use this video to crimp wires
@@Steve-pu4zx I would never use a video to strip and crimp wires, I think I would use the proper tools for the job.
@@edwardhugus2772 you should be a comedian.
One of the best tutorials I’ve seen.
Actually you can Release Before You are done or have completely ratcheted the crimp tool.
Release once you are done (15:18)
There should be a small thumb lever on the tool witch will release the jaws at any point.
I have not seen a ratchet style crimping tool with out one.
Thankx 4 the Vid.
Sol Shady Thanks for the post...you are correct!
Sol Shady but that is only in case you mess up and cant finish, like if you "accidentally" start to crimp a hardened steel bar
The release lever is very handy if you accidentally crimp your finger.
I've seen newer videos of yours, this is obviously older, but A+ quality!
Look up/Google " Large Crimp Validation Poster " . Very helpful wall chart. Explains the importance of a gas tight seal on a crimped connection. I used to be an Application Tooling Product Manager with Tyco in Germany/Bensheim. Take it from me, only use correctly sized wire for terminals and the correct crimp tooling. All Tyco tools are specified for specific tyco connectors. Crimp tooling from China is unreliable mechanically and crimp specification wise. Crimpimg RGB fastons or ring terminals for automotive use....Use the correct tool to get a long lasting air/gas tight connection.
MrFreddiew1 Absolutely, most people have never heard that term, gas tight. Well I might make another comment about that term but ha ha I’ll be PC here. Once you explain that term to people like using a 66 block connector for a insulation displacing connection of a phone wire then sometimes the lightbulb goes off and people understand.
As dry as this may be for some I quite enjoyed it. I am blowing fuses on my 12 V power system in my new van build under extreme loads. My inverter pulls a solid 200 amps continuous and by the time this current reaches the fuse at the batteries it is most likely much higher do to some poor connections even though I knew how important these connections are, I feel I could have done better. So I'm going to do some resistance measuring and hopefully lower the heat at the fuse by lowering the increase in amperage (due to heat) at the connections. I wish I had someone like you to help me.
FYI, CURRENT stays the same; when resistance goes up at a connector, there is greater Voltage drop across the connector (E=IR), so net drop in voltage at the load.
As a complete novice - thank you - I now feel I can deal with this. I particularly appreciated the way you highlighted possible faults/ errors -- which I am sure I would've done.
Again thank you -- well done.
A very nice and informative video! I am glad to see that you talked about the green wire as being earth ground and not a normal current/voltage carrying wire. I would clean up the subtitles as several words were mistaken by the computer in translating what you said. All in all, a great video! Thanks!
Very well thought out video. I didnt know about correct orientation of the connector in the crimping tool.
Thanx for posting this.
easily one of the better videos on crimping connectors, nice close-ups, good details, nice presentation, do's and don'ts and why's.
Nice video. I was always a bit unsure of weather to 'tin' wires before crimping. now i know not too...
Gree
Thank you for your tutorial and well-thought-out steps. i have noticed that elecbee connectors are good too.
Great video, exactly what I needed to know. Very in depth and informative!
Thanks for the post!
The cheap stripers you first showed, you demonstrated the wire in the stripers backwards.
Now I know you can strip wire that way but you'll likely leave an frayed uneven cut.
If you look at the second cutter you demonstrated with you should note the angle the cutter uses to strip the wire.
This too should be the same with the cheap striper.
Nice video, thx 4 sharing.
how many multimeters does he need? great vid though
As a particle matter practice at least two. The dude does product review videos that's probably why he has so many to display.
i liked the detailing lesson.
you answered all the questions might anyone think of.
It's one thing to be thorough, but it can become painful to watch when it's stretched-out too long.
Just have a cup of coffee and puff a long cigar while watching
My fancy computer lets me skip to any part AND speed up the video in these cases. I know it sounds crazy, but I can also select shorter videos.
It's because I'm rich, rockin the $200 laptop.
I myself work in the manufacturing field specifically on the cable area and for anybody that wants to learn this is a great video, of course some of the european components and tools could be a little different that the american components and tools but the principals are the same.
An excellent tutorial as always, thank you.
Very nice video with the sort of details that the rookie needs.
You never use ground colors for live cables!! This is a basic safety rule...
Tell that to old Honda motorcycles, black is a live color all through the harness
Elias Ghosn
I believe he meant the green/yellow cable which is labeled "POS+".. And I agree strongly
Simon K. It's actually acceptable under UK regs at least to use g/y for a non-ground/earth purpose if reidentified at each end.
I do NOT like the idea though.
1. You would also never assume a red/brown/black/grey colored cable is live either. You always measure before work and double check connections at the ends.
2. You always count the person that worked on that gear previously is a baboon with a hairdo.
p.S. I have never been disappointed on the latter as can be attested by the local fire department and barber's shop
He covered all that, and he made up a cable for something he needed for batteries, not for house village. You know you can do whatever you want at home as long as you know what the hell you’re doing.
I am relatively new to make my own wiring and electronic projects but I have found that not all wire insulation is the same when you go to strip a wire. So when using those cheaper wire striper's I find that if you go the gauge up on stranded wire part of the strippers you won't lose any pieces from that section of striped wire. So if the wire says it's 18 Awg I go down to 16 Awg place wire in the striper give a twist and pull. no loose or small cut pieces of wire.
Excellent video, I do a lot of crimping in automotive applications mostly JST/Micro Timer etc, if anyone needs any help with those I can advise. Easy rule.. crimp connectors and solder only when joining wires
By any chance, do you know if I can hook up a 1500 watt inverter with a 4 gauge wire set up to 2 gauge battery cables? Will this be safe? I know I can't do it the other way around but I'm not sure if the appliance has a smaller wire will it still be safe? Thank you for your answer in advance.
@@sweetpadre That will be fine. Your inverter has a fuse which will protect it from over-current. Use as large a supply wire as you like - it won't make a difference as long as you are 4ga or larger.
@@rdmccracken thanks.
This guy embodies perfection.
Let's play a drinking game.
Every time he says macanical take a shot.
Let's see how long you last....
You would get drunk quicker counting "potentially" and "invariably"
ruan lessing I
One very competent vid nicely done. Not many folks really knows whats 'behind the scene' and how to do it properly like you demonstrate us. Thank you!
Mechanically, Mechanical.
Thanks for the much needed up-schooling. Makes me want to revisit a few marginal efforts I've made in the past.
You should avoid touching the bare conductors with your fingers. The oils on your fingers will interfere with your connection and possibly even cause corrosion. The only time I use the crimper/stripper tool, like the "RACO" blue-handled one you have, is when I want to verify the size and thread pitch of a screw. I never use those tools for stripping or crimping, they do not make reliable connections. Colored shrink tubing is sometimes used to disguise inferior work. We don't use it where I work, as all our work is inspected. I have used it with good results at home, although it is not preferred. It should be sized correctly and applied with a heat gun, not a flame, as the tubing can char, crack, and burn, leaving uninsulated areas in your connections. It is unnecessary to have a very long piece of tubing. Depending on the wire gauge, 5-15 mm may be adequate tubing behind the lug and up onto the wire insulation. This will also permit the wire to be routed to its destination more easily. (I've been NASA certified since 1996 and have worked in aerospace since the late 80's).
I call bull-shizzle on your NASA cert claim. I'm sure at any NASA level, there is some sort of National Secrets Legislation that prevents disclosing any information about employment.....that leaves wanna-be, dip-shits like you pounding out "meadow muffins" on the keyboard.
Very informative and useful. I've been crimping wire for decades and still learned new things. Excellent.
why do you have so many multi meters?
HERESY! I scatter meters everywhere so I'm never more than a few feet from one.
Diferent vo;tage jajajajajajajaaj
Nice explanations, nice manber. I think it ishelpful in this topic to explain cold fusion, and how that effect makes crimping stronger than soldering. Akong with that is the importance of clean contact surface between wire and connector. This gives the reason for some of the important aspects to the process that you highlighted.
Very informative as always. Thanks.
Handy video, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Putting on crimps seems a simple thing to do, but like you say, it needs to be done correctly. Unfortunately, a lot of people do it the wrong way, I'm guilty of doing the solder tinning before crimping. - won't be doing that again now you've explained why. Regards David.
This information was helpful, thanks.
on your cheaper crimper the part marked 1.5,2.5,6mm are for non insulated crimps the coloured marks are for the insulated version.I'm looking for a decent set of crimpers to do 4mm cable,but the yellow crimps that they sell are for sizes 4 to 6 but I cant get a consistently good crimp.I've even tried to crimp down the yellow crimps with the 2.5 jaws but it just damages the insulation and still doesn't hold the wire sufficiently for my liking.
Excellent. Thanks.
Just about to fix wire on my bike, didnt expect Andrew here :)
👍video
Using non insulated terminals I coat the terminal with non corrosive grease before installing heat shrink tubing , Video Appreciated ! 5/31/23 30:34
great video, liked and shared
Thanks for the great video. Can we use ferrule crimping tool also for the cable lugs?
I went through half of this video and realised this isn't a crimped hair tutorial.
Ha! Cute.
Lucy D I went though the whole video and realised I have a shaved head.
LOL =D
When I was an apprentice electrical technician my employer told me to buy proper crimper. From then on I had lovely textured hair.
Lucy D LOL 😂
I have just got a ten ton hydraulic crimper set for the larger lugs like those used on starter motors etc, available at very reasonable prices these days,I paid around £30-00 and they are excellent.
15:58 the only part of this video I understand.
Thanks for taking the time to show all aspects of what to do and what not to do.