Thanks for making a video on this subject that’s far easier to watch than the ones others have posted on here. Well done! (I broke my springs when removing them so have to order more before finishing)
PSA : rear drum brakes are no joke. I recommend you outsource this job that is generally due at 90K for hard drivers & 125K for gentle drivers. I studied several UA-cam videos. I downloaded the service manual. I bought specialty drum brake tools. I was just going to clean & regrease where the pads contact the back plate. Seemed like a straightforward procedure with my UA-cam knowledge & couple pages of service manual exploded PDF's. What took 5 minutes on a UA-cam toke over an hour on one drum for me ( I've done struts, front brakes, radiator swaps, alternator swaps before, so I'm not a beginner) I studied the picture I took of the ," before ." I after struggling for an hour, I finally reassembled and doubled checked my assembly. Well after taking a short test drive, and not having resistance from my console area parking brake handle, I open the drum again. Turns out, in my 10+ attempts at finessing the springs and position of pads & levers, I discovered that somehow the parking brake cable came off from it's attachment point and got sheared off. So now I created a $350 premature rear brake job for myself. Lesson learned .
You made twice to work when putting it together there's a way simpler way. Sightly put a screwdriver in between that locking pin an adjuster screw slightly pry out and turn the adjuster screw that way you did not have to take it apart again.
this guy might not have the proper tools to remove the springs, but at least he is easy to understand what he is doing, and the camera is right on spot.
Last part you just needed to rotate the gear ⚙ and it will get shorter or longer. its a self adjusting gear. Side note, the horse shoe like retaining washer the one that holds the parking brake bracket you NEEDED to squeeze the two ends a little bit closer together so it doesn't slide out.
Dude the e brake cable was the toughest part to get back on by myself, I eventually gave up and recruited a second set of hands. Also, I was even more pissed bc I realized that the piece didn't even need to come off, you can just take the lock washer off and swap the shoe
On the hold down spring I found that if you hold the spring still with pliers you can use needle nose pliers to push in the pin and easily turn the pin. Pops right out
rear brakes last a very long time, and if you notice in this clip, the brake shoe is not so totally worn out, but noticably glazed. a good blast of cleaner or water hose so u are far away and sanding of the shoes should do. If it aint broke dont touch it.
@@doubler8000 rear brakes last so much longer because most of the braking force is on the front of car. Because when you put the brakes on, and all the weight of the car naturally shifts towards the front brakes. That's why they can get away with using weak rear drum brakes but powerful front disc brakes.
Also, it would have been nice if you would have slowly put it back together moving the camera to straight on showing in detail where each spring or part went without the whistle music. Thanks
To watch it slower. Click on the video and click the three dots/ settings. Then click playback speed. Then click 0.25 to have it played back much slower. Hope this youtube feature is avaiable in your region and this helps your viewing needs
You know they make a whole set of tools specifically for drum brakes. The right tools make the job go much faster. Also, you should always use new hardware everytime you replace brake pads or shoes. I work at Advance Auto Parts and I always recommend new hardware to my customers so they don't run into old hardware breaking or not performing properly due to rust or corrosion.
Good tutorial. In the end, when you needed to adjust them in a little, there was no need to take the star adjuster off. You just pry down the holding lever (slightly) and turn the adjuster to tighten it. Other than that, excellent video.
Always use new hardware, never reuse the old parts. It’s also a good idea to install a new cylinder because it will inherently leak before those new shoes ware out and when it leaks it will destroy your new brakes
The video is great and everything, but it would have been 50 times better if you didn't speed up the actual reassembly of the brakes. It would really help!
Also, idk the rest of you, but I like to spend extra $15-20 on new hardware (springs, adjusters, etc), mostly because I live up north and rust her is no joke.
I did not see where he put the pin back on the new brakes after turning the pin around. He must squeeze the washer to lock it in. When he pushed it , it just slid in and back out a bit. I hope he did that , or that will become disconnected. Other than that, Pretty good video.
Scott C he did not need to remove the pin, the shoes were probably for the other size, they have their side, one for the right and one for thw left...but good video..
I could not get the drum back on even after I released fluid pressure and backed the adjuster off.. I had force them on and now they heat up...something is wrong any Ideas.
nice. one thing....never test your work by stepping on the brake pedal unless that drum is back on........or you will really have a bad day.......from experience the first time i changed shoes.....oh well also learned how to do wheel cylinders that day too!
No problem. It's obvious when you think about it but I wasn't thinking. Friend in car pushed in brakes when I was checking out the drums. Exploded brake fluid all over my face.
I changed the rear brakes now it makes a terrible noise when i break. What can it be? When i spin the wheel off the ground the wheel kinda has resistance in one area
Probably need new drums. Also he made a mistake at the end. The adjuster need to be adjusted so the drum spins about one revolution whw you spin it. What I mean is there is a small amount of drag that needs to be present and that is so the Emergency brake still works. To adjust turn the hub til the large hole lines up with the adjuster and use a flat screwdriver to turn it. The reason his drum didn't fit after he finished the first time is because you should lightly clamp off the rubber brake line so the fluid doesn't expand the piston at the top in which pushes the pads out.
8mm diameter x 1.25mm thread pitch for removing drums. For Toyota and most imported cars. Most bolts with a 12 mm head will be the correct size.(8mm x 1.25mm with at least 35mm length)
He said you o my need to take 4 of the 5 springs off to remove it. That's why he said three more after the first one. He was going to leave one on which he clearly said in the beginning
Good show. Please be careful where you put your feet under. E.g., at 25:00. I like that you purposely expanded that adjustable rod so the installed shoes won't allow the drum to fit. I also knew that drum brakes are harder to change shoes than the disc brakes. Yet, an auto mechanic would charge you much more for the disc brakes. Why?
8mm diameter x 1.25mm thread pitch with at least 35mm length. Most bolts with a 12mm head will be the correct diameter and thread pitch to remove stuck drums.
Thanks for making a video on this subject that’s far easier to watch than the ones others have posted on here. Well done! (I broke my springs when removing them so have to order more before finishing)
The two pins are more easily removed by turning the washer on the outside rather than trying to turn the pin.
PSA : rear drum brakes are no joke. I recommend you outsource this job that is generally due at 90K for hard drivers & 125K for gentle drivers. I studied several UA-cam videos. I downloaded the service manual. I bought specialty drum brake tools. I was just going to clean & regrease where the pads contact the back plate. Seemed like a straightforward procedure with my UA-cam knowledge & couple pages of service manual exploded PDF's. What took 5 minutes on a UA-cam toke over an hour on one drum for me ( I've done struts, front brakes, radiator swaps, alternator swaps before, so I'm not a beginner)
I studied the picture I took of the ," before ."
I after struggling for an hour, I finally reassembled and doubled checked my assembly.
Well after taking a short test drive, and not having resistance from my console area parking brake handle, I open the drum again. Turns out, in my 10+ attempts at finessing the springs and position of pads & levers, I discovered that somehow the parking brake cable came off from it's attachment point and got sheared off.
So now I created a $350 premature rear brake job for myself.
Lesson learned .
Seems like a skill issue
You made twice to work when putting it together there's a way simpler way. Sightly put a screwdriver in between that locking pin an adjuster screw slightly pry out and turn the adjuster screw that way you did not have to take it apart again.
this guy might not have the proper tools to remove the springs, but at least he is easy to understand what he is doing, and the camera is right on spot.
I wish the auto metering would have been turned off so you could still see stuff when his bright gloves were in the picture.
Best UA-cam on this subject. Thank you for doing it. Nicely done
More entertaining than a disney movie. Using words like "thingy" - great video.
Last part you just needed to rotate the gear ⚙ and it will get shorter or longer. its a self adjusting gear. Side note, the horse shoe like retaining washer the one that holds the parking brake bracket you NEEDED to squeeze the two ends a little bit closer together so it doesn't slide out.
All in all good job. The vice grips and channel locks are a good idea when you don't have the tool or the money to get the tools
Dude the e brake cable was the toughest part to get back on by myself, I eventually gave up and recruited a second set of hands. Also, I was even more pissed bc I realized that the piece didn't even need to come off, you can just take the lock washer off and swap the shoe
On the hold down spring I found that if you hold the spring still with pliers you can use needle nose pliers to push in the pin and easily turn the pin. Pops right out
All done this helped a lot, First time changing the shoes. Thank you for the video
very nicely explained, I have never changed break pads on a car, only at a motorcycle one or twice, thanks
2008 Toyota Corolla left door handle
Thanks for this video. Hard to see other videos and yours is nice and close. Thanks much.
rear brakes last a very long time, and if you notice in this clip, the brake shoe is not so totally worn out, but noticably glazed. a good blast of cleaner or water hose so u are far away and sanding of the shoes should do. If it aint broke dont touch it.
sanBastian123 how does it last? Compared to front brakes
@@doubler8000 rear brakes last so much longer because most of the braking force is on the front of car. Because when you put the brakes on, and all the weight of the car naturally shifts towards the front brakes. That's why they can get away with using weak rear drum brakes but powerful front disc brakes.
I suspect that when he did the drivers side that pin in that shoe was also in the wrong side! LOL
yeah he couldn't just swapped them. lol
Lol that was my guess, but without having a set in front of me.. I just took his word for it.
Also, it would have been nice if you would have slowly put it back together moving the camera to straight on showing in detail where each spring or part went without the whistle music. Thanks
marcia w rite 😂
To watch it slower. Click on the video and click the three dots/ settings. Then click playback speed. Then click 0.25 to have it played back much slower. Hope this youtube feature is avaiable in your region and this helps your viewing needs
Good video. I recommend watching 20:00 to 22:10 at 1/4 speed and take good notes.
You can push them springs, with your fingers, once you get angry enough!
Number one newbie people forget is realeasing the parking brakes, which doesnt say on this video.
I think you better take it apart one more time and clean everything and GREASE the back plate raised surfaces where metal to metal rubbing occurs.
You know they make a whole set of tools specifically for drum brakes. The right tools make the job go much faster. Also, you should always use new hardware everytime you replace brake pads or shoes. I work at Advance Auto Parts and I always recommend new hardware to my customers so they don't run into old hardware breaking or not performing properly due to rust or corrosion.
Sometimes the new hardware doesnt work right or have the correct specs. I've gotten that problem from Autozone, oreillys, and advance🤦🏾♂️
Naw man. If nothing is wrong with the OE that Chinese crap is never better. Working at a parts store doesn't mean anything.
Original hardware if still OK is much better than the new China crap hardware that sometime does not fit well.. just wasted the money.
Good tutorial. In the end, when you needed to adjust them in a little, there was no need to take the star adjuster off. You just pry down the holding lever (slightly) and turn the adjuster to tighten it. Other than that, excellent video.
Awesome explanation, surprised u didnt use silicon grease on the touch points on the the shoes though...
Thanks good video
Much easier very good explaning thanks 👍👍👍👍
EL CHEE saw your avatar and had to reply ua-cam.com/video/1eMLk1nQh5o/v-deo.html
great explanation and video, thanks!
What size are the bolts to remove drums?
M8 x 1.25 with 13mm nut
If anyone is going to do drum brakes new hardware is a must and a can of brake cleaner either way it was good install 👍
Always use new hardware, never reuse the old parts. It’s also a good idea to install a new cylinder because it will inherently leak before those new shoes ware out and when it leaks it will destroy your new brakes
exactly
Thanks for the video.
Thank you
The video is great and everything, but it would have been 50 times better if you didn't speed up the actual reassembly of the brakes. It would really help!
Hello,
Which size in MM for the two bolts that you used to remove it ?
Thanks.
I called to the toyota stealership they said it will cost $336 to replace it, I guess it only cost less than $36 now
Hahahaha strealership.
There are tools to compress the springs with the little pins in them 3 to $5 at the parts store
Also, idk the rest of you, but I like to spend extra $15-20 on new hardware (springs, adjusters, etc), mostly because I live up north and rust her is no joke.
Thank you for this!
Thanks for your help!
I did not see where he put the pin back on the new brakes after turning the pin around. He must squeeze the washer to lock it in. When he pushed it , it just slid in and back out a bit. I hope he did that , or that will become disconnected. Other than that, Pretty good video.
Scott C he did not need to remove the pin, the shoes were probably for the other size, they have their side, one for the right and one for thw left...but good video..
I could not get the drum back on even after I released fluid pressure and backed the adjuster off.. I had force them on and now they heat up...something is wrong any Ideas.
nice. one thing....never test your work by stepping on the brake pedal unless that drum is back on........or you will really have a bad day.......from experience the first time i changed shoes.....oh well also learned how to do wheel cylinders that day too!
I did the same thing!
Why is that?
It'll blow out the cylinder.
Nice to know, havent done drum brakes before but I will keep that in mind when I do work on one.
No problem. It's obvious when you think about it but I wasn't thinking. Friend in car pushed in brakes when I was checking out the drums. Exploded brake fluid all over my face.
Thank u sir..
Got it . Passenger side thank you
good job dude.
Great 👍 video. What size bolts do I need to pop the drum off? Thank you in advance.
8mm
Did you mix the shoes ?
Excellent job very well explained 👍
Thank u my brother.
I need to do this so bad on my 06 Corolla it sounds so bad whenever I brake. It’s a hard grinding noise.
Is it the same way on the 4WD?
Couldn't of adjusted the adjuster with a flathead screwdriver instead of taking it out all over again to adjust?
Right and pull out the star wheel stop at the same time
Great video but the drum needed to be replaced.
Dude this is my first drum brake job and you sped up and explained nothing when you put it back together. I'm lost
I changed the rear brakes now it makes a terrible noise when i break. What can it be? When i spin the wheel off the ground the wheel kinda has resistance in one area
Probably need new drums. Also he made a mistake at the end. The adjuster need to be adjusted so the drum spins about one revolution whw you spin it. What I mean is there is a small amount of drag that needs to be present and that is so the Emergency brake still works. To adjust turn the hub til the large hole lines up with the adjuster and use a flat screwdriver to turn it. The reason his drum didn't fit after he finished the first time is because you should lightly clamp off the rubber brake line so the fluid doesn't expand the piston at the top in which pushes the pads out.
What size and thread are them bolts? Thanks.
8mm diameter x 1.25mm thread pitch for removing drums. For Toyota and most imported cars. Most bolts with a 12 mm head will be the correct size.(8mm x 1.25mm with at least 35mm length)
But to much bla bla bla straight to the point my friend.
Well done :)
PASSENGER SIDE OR DRIVERS SIDE?
WHICH SIDE ARE YOU SHOWING PASSENGER OR DRIVERS SIDE? THANKS
passenger side.
Good God, if you can't figure that from the way the car is pointed in the video then you shouldn't be working with anything other than Legos.
Why you don't get the proper tools
Brake parts cleaner is begging to help
20:15
5 springs to take off. He took one out and then he said three more to go instead of four. Hahahaha
He said you o my need to take 4 of the 5 springs off to remove it. That's why he said three more after the first one. He was going to leave one on which he clearly said in the beginning
Cameras autoexposure completely ruined what you were wanting to show uz. Music is 5 times louder than narration.
you guys forgot to mention REMOVE THE PARKING BRAKE or you won.t be able to remove the drum and anything, NO, its NOT abvious...... THUMBS DOWN
You talked too much when it’s not needed and fast forward the important part
I totally agree.
wrong tools and that not a 2003 - 08 corolla rear brakes.
Good show. Please be careful where you put your feet under. E.g., at 25:00. I like that
you purposely expanded that adjustable rod so the installed shoes won't allow the drum to fit.
I also knew that drum brakes are harder to change shoes than the disc brakes. Yet, an
auto mechanic would charge you much more for the disc brakes. Why?
Schuten Dohkji parts are more money
Wood half beeen nyce eef yoo tell what sise boolts youu uzed to Puul de dums uff. No stuck wating for anaswer
Biggest mistake when assembling fastward not showing little details booo..
You had to show auto adjuster latch how its suppose to stay
Yep, my Ford is fast.
@@vuaeco not ford fastward cause it did auto correct
Drum brakes are the most disgusting things I've ever seen! I hate these things!
😂😂😂😂👍👍👍
You repeat yourself so many times you will bore your listeners but good job
Hey can you please slowly put all the items back into place in correct order next time, 👎
Where can I find the bolds to extract the brake drum? 🤔🥲
M8 1.25 x 40 I got mine at Lowes. I think they were 89 cents a piece.
What size are the bolts to remove the drum?
!??
8mm diameter x 1.25mm thread pitch with at least 35mm length. Most bolts with a 12mm head will be the correct diameter and thread pitch to remove stuck drums.