Very Excellent Video. You covered all the questions I had. Just got my Dana 20 Axle off and pulled the axles. Was wondering how to go past that. Working on a 1978 CJ5.
Just a thought on the end castle nut torque, check for a loaner wrench at the parts store then use a floor jack lifting up on the handle end slowly. I've done that for loosening stuck lug nuts in a pinch when no other tools were available.
The shims need to be on either one side or the other. what connects the axles is something called the thrust button, its inside the carrier assy. AMC axle 20 is a semi floating axle the shims determine the end play. you installed the race and bearings on the axle in the correct way. so many others on you tube do it backwards and it makes for a dangerous combination. It usually works out installing the same amount of shims that came out to get the end plate correct. I also recommend a bit of grey silicone sealant between every shim and retainer just to help prevent water from entering the bearing area since jeeps go thru a lot of water. The end play is in and out but you need a dial gauge to measure. and bearings need a good amount of grease and extra since its the only lube they get.
Finally someone who can tell me what the thrust button is for, thankyou. The question is, do I need it if I'm upgrading to single piece axle shafts? As far as I can see there is no way to adjust the wheel bearing play on these kits. The shafts become fully floating with only the ends of the rollers running on the race shoulders that stop the whole shaft coming out. Not good.
Would love to have reinstalled my new rear breaks without the wheel hub on, but I couldn't pull it. Bought a POS puller from Harbor F. and it snapped the bolts... so I too it to a shop. cost me $25.00 per hub to remove and they installed the outer seal and pressed it. hopefully to the correct specs? Should I be using loctite on the backing plate bolts? seems weird only 4 bolts to hold the entire axke in in only 32 lbs and 250 lb on the crown nut, woodruff key plus cotter pin?? I mean if those backer plate bolts go, your axles it flying off, no matter how much torque is holding the hub on correct? but, I'm a novice and learning so, what do I know..
Well, depends on what you want to do with a 40 year old off road vehicle with horrible road manners. That also why some people go with the 1 piece axle.
Hi, Ive got the 1 pce rear Dana 20 axel , Replaced all bearings & seals but on reassembly the passenger side hub spacing is way too much even after 4 spacers! How is this fixed? Left side axel seem to fit OK. Thanks.
Sorry so late in response. I’ve been checked out for too long. Did you get this figured out? My fist question would be, are the toothed end of the axle fully meshed with differential spider gear? Both axles should butt up against each other IIRC.
To remove the hub we left the axle on the jeep axle housing, we used my grandpa's wheel/hub drum puller thing he uses on his wagoneer to pull the drums. It's like any other polar except it has arms that come off in the puller and bolt to the lug nuts and then the tip pushes on the tip of the axle and with oil and a washer in between for less friction and with the use of a impact she came off after about 45 seconds of loud inpact noises.
End play tolerances are for heat expansion if you didn't have any play and everything was tight the thermal expansion will cause too much preload on the bearing causing premature wear and failure. When the third member heats up and the axle heats up it can expand up to 20,000 of an inch
Yes your shim thing is correct. We have the factory amc book and just put a locker in a 20. In the spyder gears there is a cylinder shaped thing in between the axles so that shim adds play and as it wears you get more play cause the taper of the bearing
I know this us an old video, but thought I'd comment on your use of SS nuts to hold the backing plate/axle in place. Most SS bolts and nuts are Grade 2 and aren't up to the task of holding the axles in place, the factory used Grade 8 for a reason. Also, when using SS bolts/nuts you must use Anti-seize to prevent gawling...you might get them together just fine, but never get them back off. Save the SS hardware for the non-mechanical/non-structural stuff (eye candy).
Awsome video clips, extremly good explained. Watched them almost all. About the End-Play is like @warbed1 already explained it, but before just using the old shims. I did a messurement with a dial indicator, it is supposed to be 0,10 - 0,20mm 0,15mm is desired and thats what the shims are for, to achive this End-Play.
@@coolguy_CJ7I know this is an old video but hopefully you’ll still see this soon. I’ve got a 1983 cj5 in the shop right now and I’m trying to figure out this rear axle. Bearing were shot and hanging out when it got here so this video has been above and beyond helpful. Although, the passenger side had no shims. The driver side however. Had 10 shims!!!!! And that doesn’t sound right to me. But the thing I’m finding most confusing is when I put the putter seals on, what is keeping the bearing race from pushing against the seal? I can’t make it make sense to me
Hey Cool Guy. We have been rebuilding our 1981 Jeep CJ5 for the last year and have found your videos very helpful and referencing them many times over. Thank you! We now have an issue with our rear passenger wheel locking up when we brake, and took the wheel off. It seems that the hub is not in the best of shape and we were going to replace just that. Based on looking online and watching this video, the only solution seems to be replacing the whole thing, including axle shaft. Do you agree? Any other suggestions?
I don't think that is the case. As long as the shaft is in good shape then you should be good to just replace the hub. When you do that, you need to press it on to a depth of 1 5/8". I can give you more specs and details when you're ready. Everyone is going to tell you to just get a new 1 piece axle set. But you really don't need to. These things have lasted for 40 some years.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Very good question... It locked up only when we braked after going 30-35mph, not when going slower. We took the wheel off and noticed the wheel cylinder was leaking, so replaced that. Also, the drums were 'egg shaped', so we had them turned and also got new brake pads. When we were going to put everything back together, we noticed the right rear hub only was a little wobbly/off center. When we spun it and held a screwdriver up to the edge, it would touch at times. That's why we decided to replace the hub. **Don't know if this has anything to do with it, but a few days before, my son (who has been working on it with me and my brother-in-law) moved the emergency brake line from one side of the shock to the other.
Can you please make a video of rebuilding the steering column? I am having a hell of a time trying to put mine back together and the order to put things back in place. Much appreciated
Not Mr. Knowitall here but I believe they calculate torque by clamping force. So, obviously they know how much clamping force is generated by each fastener at a given twist so then they have to figure it out over the area of the parts that they want clamped together. I installed a driveshaft on my Ranger according to the ridiculously light spec given by Ford and the shaft liked to want to come off. I just went with "tight is tight" method after that. For non-critical items like a dust shield etc. give a good grunt and say "click". Backlash is the rotational slop, endplay is the side to side.
That is correct on torque = clamp force. A good practice is to chase the threads with a tap and know the K factor of the anti seize you are using. Lower K factor, more clamp force being applied at a given torque.
Torqueing the axle nut me and my dad use his 1 inch or 1 and 1/4 inch torque wrench. I got it done and im only 145 pounds but i literally was putting all my weight on it and got it by lunging downwards with gravity. Wheel on the jeep and all the weight down but we had the body and top and all that on. With just the frame the wheel might spin.
Very Excellent Video. You covered all the questions I had. Just got my Dana 20 Axle off and pulled the axles. Was wondering how to go past that. Working on a 1978 CJ5.
Depends on what’s next on your list. I have videos for most of the drive train or at least know where to direct you if I didn’t video it.
Just a thought on the end castle nut torque, check for a loaner wrench at the parts store then use a floor jack lifting up on the handle end slowly. I've done that for loosening stuck lug nuts in a pinch when no other tools were available.
Not a bad idea. It is either that or getting my neighbors to come over and we all stand on the breaker bar at the same time :)
The shims need to be on either one side or the other. what connects the axles is something called the thrust button, its inside the carrier assy. AMC axle 20 is a semi floating axle the shims determine the end play. you installed the race and bearings on the axle in the correct way. so many others on you tube do it backwards and it makes for a dangerous combination. It usually works out installing the same amount of shims that came out to get the end plate correct. I also recommend a bit of grey silicone sealant between every shim and retainer just to help prevent water from entering the bearing area since jeeps go thru a lot of water. The end play is in and out but you need a dial gauge to measure. and bearings need a good amount of grease and extra since its the only lube they get.
Now that folks, is an outstanding explanation. Thank you BarberChop for that. It takes a village to restore a CJ properly. :)
Finally someone who can tell me what the thrust button is for, thankyou. The question is, do I need it if I'm upgrading to single piece axle shafts? As far as I can see there is no way to adjust the wheel bearing play on these kits. The shafts become fully floating with only the ends of the rollers running on the race shoulders that stop the whole shaft coming out. Not good.
What is the spec. For the end play? .001, .002 etc.? Thanks
Would love to have reinstalled my new rear breaks without the wheel hub on, but I couldn't pull it. Bought a POS puller from Harbor F. and it snapped the bolts... so I too it to a shop. cost me $25.00 per hub to remove and they installed the outer seal and pressed it. hopefully to the correct specs? Should I be using loctite on the backing plate bolts? seems weird only 4 bolts to hold the entire axke in in only 32 lbs and 250 lb on the crown nut, woodruff key plus cotter pin?? I mean if those backer plate bolts go, your axles it flying off, no matter how much torque is holding the hub on correct? but, I'm a novice and learning so, what do I know..
Well, depends on what you want to do with a 40 year old off road vehicle with horrible road manners. That also why some people go with the 1 piece axle.
Hi, Ive got the 1 pce rear Dana 20 axel , Replaced all bearings & seals but on reassembly the passenger side hub spacing is way too much even after 4 spacers! How is this fixed? Left side axel seem to fit OK. Thanks.
Sorry so late in response. I’ve been checked out for too long. Did you get this figured out? My fist question would be, are the toothed end of the axle fully meshed with differential spider gear? Both axles should butt up against each other IIRC.
Always informative and helpful. Thank you.
To remove the hub we left the axle on the jeep axle housing, we used my grandpa's wheel/hub drum puller thing he uses on his wagoneer to pull the drums. It's like any other polar except it has arms that come off in the puller and bolt to the lug nuts and then the tip pushes on the tip of the axle and with oil and a washer in between for less friction and with the use of a impact she came off after about 45 seconds of loud inpact noises.
This worked for 2 axles. This jeeps original tore up diff one and the used one we put on this 85 cj
We also drilled and tapped the housing so we have greasable wheel bearings like the older jeeps
@@chickensfloat7427 interesting. Tell me more about the drill and tap for greasible bearings. Sounds like a smart upgrade.
End play tolerances are for heat expansion if you didn't have any play and everything was tight the thermal expansion will cause too much preload on the bearing causing premature wear and failure. When the third member heats up and the axle heats up it can expand up to 20,000 of an inch
Yes your shim thing is correct. We have the factory amc book and just put a locker in a 20. In the spyder gears there is a cylinder shaped thing in between the axles so that shim adds play and as it wears you get more play cause the taper of the bearing
Thank you for the confirmation. Makes me feel better.
I know this us an old video, but thought I'd comment on your use of SS nuts to hold the backing plate/axle in place. Most SS bolts and nuts are Grade 2 and aren't up to the task of holding the axles in place, the factory used Grade 8 for a reason. Also, when using SS bolts/nuts you must use Anti-seize to prevent gawling...you might get them together just fine, but never get them back off. Save the SS hardware for the non-mechanical/non-structural stuff (eye candy).
Awsome video clips, extremly good explained. Watched them almost all. About the End-Play is like @warbed1 already explained it, but before just using the old shims. I did a messurement with a dial indicator, it is supposed to be 0,10 - 0,20mm 0,15mm is desired and thats what the shims are for, to achive this End-Play.
Appreciate this information. Thank you for sharing with me and the group.
@@coolguy_CJ7I know this is an old video but hopefully you’ll still see this soon. I’ve got a 1983 cj5 in the shop right now and I’m trying to figure out this rear axle. Bearing were shot and hanging out when it got here so this video has been above and beyond helpful. Although, the passenger side had no shims. The driver side however. Had 10 shims!!!!! And that doesn’t sound right to me. But the thing I’m finding most confusing is when I put the putter seals on, what is keeping the bearing race from pushing against the seal? I can’t make it make sense to me
@@tyh3323 I’m assuming that these are the 2 piece original axles. Or are they 1 piece?
Hey Cool Guy. We have been rebuilding our 1981 Jeep CJ5 for the last year and have found your videos very helpful and referencing them many times over. Thank you! We now have an issue with our rear passenger wheel locking up when we brake, and took the wheel off. It seems that the hub is not in the best of shape and we were going to replace just that. Based on looking online and watching this video, the only solution seems to be replacing the whole thing, including axle shaft. Do you agree? Any other suggestions?
I don't think that is the case. As long as the shaft is in good shape then you should be good to just replace the hub. When you do that, you need to press it on to a depth of 1 5/8". I can give you more specs and details when you're ready. Everyone is going to tell you to just get a new 1 piece axle set. But you really don't need to. These things have lasted for 40 some years.
I'm actually a little interested in why the wheel is locking up. Have you checked your brake drum hardware and wheel cylinder?
@@coolguy_CJ7 Very good question... It locked up only when we braked after going 30-35mph, not when going slower. We took the wheel off and noticed the wheel cylinder was leaking, so replaced that. Also, the drums were 'egg shaped', so we had them turned and also got new brake pads. When we were going to put everything back together, we noticed the right rear hub only was a little wobbly/off center. When we spun it and held a screwdriver up to the edge, it would touch at times. That's why we decided to replace the hub. **Don't know if this has anything to do with it, but a few days before, my son (who has been working on it with me and my brother-in-law) moved the emergency brake line from one side of the shock to the other.
Can you please make a video of rebuilding the steering column? I am having a hell of a time trying to put mine back together and the order to put things back in place. Much appreciated
Have you seen my video on how to take it apart? Part 2 is the correct one.
Great video!! Thanks for the help.
Glad it helped!
Not Mr. Knowitall here but I believe they calculate torque by clamping force. So, obviously they know how much clamping force is generated by each fastener at a given twist so then they have to figure it out over the area of the parts that they want clamped together. I installed a driveshaft on my Ranger according to the ridiculously light spec given by Ford and the shaft liked to want to come off. I just went with "tight is tight" method after that. For non-critical items like a dust shield etc. give a good grunt and say "click". Backlash is the rotational slop, endplay is the side to side.
I love that approach. I just find 38 ft lbs to be strangely arbitrary. Like, 35 would fall off or 40 would break it.
That is correct on torque = clamp force. A good practice is to chase the threads with a tap and know the K factor of the anti seize you are using. Lower K factor, more clamp force being applied at a given torque.
Torqueing the axle nut me and my dad use his 1 inch or 1 and 1/4 inch torque wrench. I got it done and im only 145 pounds but i literally was putting all my weight on it and got it by lunging downwards with gravity. Wheel on the jeep and all the weight down but we had the body and top and all that on. With just the frame the wheel might spin.
I think I'm going to recruit my wife. Between the 2 of us, we should equal 250 lbs. :)
Good vid cool guy!
I didn't film this process with the first jeep and couldn't remember what to do, so i reeducated myself for future reference :)
Loch nuts monster. 🦕
Now that's funny.
Woulda helped me 3 weeks ago lol. Got her done though
Sorry I didn't get to this earlier to help out. :)
@@coolguy_CJ7 na its all good. Still fun to watch, well put together vid
Good job!!!
Thanks!!
Grazie mille per il video molto esaustivo comunque l ingegnere che ha progettato i kill him 😂
No kidding. I think the talent pool at AMC at the time was not very deep or good. :)