I took the flange nut off , tried a puller , did several burnouts , heated it and trust me , them flanges just dont strip or come off . lol . They are as good as welded .
Man, I could have used this video 25 years ago when I installed my Moser axles. Don't remember following all of those steps, but 80k miles later it still turns.
The Moser units have a slightly different arrangement, but similar concept. These shafts were from Omix or Crown. Not even sure they had their names on it, rather supplied through their shelves.
PepBoys installed new bearings and spacer ON my '84 CJ7 (along with a new TruTrac diff) and didn't know what they were doing. Within 5 miles I thought my brakes were dragging it got so hot. They redid it and still didn't get it right, so when I got back to Michigan I had my local Ring and Pinion shop redo it. They had to replace the axles as PepBoys screwed up the axle removing the bearings.
Yikes! If you stay to the traditional shim-preload style (factory), they may have just slapped the original back in and didn't realize those were responsible for the shaft bearing preload. The new bearing set may need a totally different preload setting. In the style we installed, the filing down of that race spacer is where the preload is accomplished. Please note that this will vary kit to kit... notice others commenting here are arguing this install, compared to theirs. There are DIFFERENT KITS out there. It is vital to get back to each manufacturer and get their direct guidance. The reason I made this video was because the instructions were half a sheet of paper and a mere 2-D diagram, no words. I contacted the manufacturer and took detailed notes, and even emailed back the progress to ensure we were doing THIS kit right. It isn't easy!!
What do you do with the Thrust Block in the spider gear in the differential? I don't think it's needed anymore as there is no wheel bearing adjustment. Is it just left to bounce around in the diff?
Recently had a discussion on the 2pc design since its related to the Roxor as well. Too bad, you didn't give some video to the difficulty to remove the hub...and show the spline (keyway) of the 2pc axle shaft.
Good point! That painful task is exactly why we went with the one piece shaft kit. The 41 yr old axle shafts were not releasing the hubs and we just scrapped them, cut the bearings off to access the needed parts and moved everything to the new shafts. We reached a point where time is money and the new kit was less than $300. That's nearly 3 hours saved and upgrades gained
Most kits will have a final ridge or lip another good tip is to do one shaft at a time in its entirety... this allows you to compare the old shaft and bearing positioning.
Think about it the retainer is holding the race it place but since you installed it backwards what is keeping the bearing retained,, the bearing cage... also there is a axle button (thrust button) between the axles in the carrier assembly this makes it a semi floating axle your bearings installed in this manor makes it have excessive strain against the retainer and bearings.
Thanks for the great tutorial! Very very helpful. I am doing this for a 1985 Jeep CJ7 and have a couple of questions which I am hoping you could help. I opted to go with the "TenFactory" one-piece axle kit. According to the instructions, the bearing race should protrude from the axle housing with a .020 - .060 tolerance. If it protrudes further than .060, then the spacer should be filed down until the tolerance is within the limit. My race only reaches to the inner-bevel of the housing, which seems wrong to me. Maybe they sent the wrong sized spacer? The fact that the race doesn't extrude beyond the housing at all, makes me think something is not right. Another question...What is considered "binding"? In attempt to troubleshoot this original issue, I went ahead and assembled the axle/hub on to the housing and bolted it down to spec. The instructions say there should be no "binding". When I rotate the hub assembly, there is a decent amount of resistance, and I do here a little noise as I turn. I just don't know if that is normal, or if resistance and noise is considered "binding", which means too much pressure on the bearing? I'm not sure what is considered proper resistance. Should it be making ANY rotational sound? Thanks!
At 2:30 removing the small collar. Since the collar is the only part of the bearing touching and held in by the back plate, the small collar must be the only thing that stops the axle shaft coming out when fully assembled. When bolted down, the back plate and then the collar push on the ends of the bearing rollers which then push on the outer race. Therefore the inner race and therefore the axle shaft is left to flop about. How is the bearing kept tight so there is no play at the wheel ?
I would love to know what seals you are using inside the axle tubes. I have a Warn full float axle conversion on my AMC 20 and said seal would fix my leak without having to find rare parts.
This was a simple Omix kit. No reclaling the exact brand name, but it''s apparently their "off road line". Client chose this route due to avoiding labor times on fighting the two piece shaft breakdown and rebuild. As far as I saw and compared from the OE seals that we removed, they were plain and simple OE replacements. We honestly didn't think to inspect and notate any information like that during the job.
I have had this done on my 1979 cj 5. I am bringing it back to the same shop for the forth time. the left side keeps burning the bearing out after only a hundred miles or less. Is there something they may be missing?
The bearing preload needs to be within tolerance. They'll burn up pretty quick if not at a proper tension. They may be using an inexperienced technician that perhaps hasn't worked with enough bearings to have a feel for a good rotational resistance.
Go to 7:25 mark in video. The shaft is milled down and there's a raised level at the end that stops the bearing as its being pressed. The inner race and bearing cage are pressed to this lip and then the retainer ring pressed against that.
Not all kits use shims to set the bearing preload. This kit used the spacer concept that requires depth modification. But yes, there are kits out there using shims
There is different conversions when it comes to this job. We've done other brands using shims. This kit was very vague with instructions and so after many phone calls and emails back and forth with the manufacturer, we decided a video was best for others to have. We worked with the manufacturer here to knock out the passenger side, then filmed the driver side once we had everything clarified and successfully installed on the passenger.
Ok I got to say this. I don't get it. I've done plenty of AMC 20 axles mostly in AMX. Hornets Javelins ect but same axle. I did do one in a CJ a few years ago and all are working perfect to this day. I have a Gremlin AMC 20 that I am about to do and also my 70 AMX will be done soon that I just bought. So I have the experience. Please remember this about the AMC 20. IT IS A SEMI FLOATING AXLE DESIGN. So why are you installing the race and bearing backwards. its not just you but all the videos I see. The bearing goes first the the outer cone with the thick part of the cone to the outside. There is also no need to file the spacer since there is shims that go between the housing and retainer for just that. also you should put a very small amount of silicone between the housing and each shim and retainer and outer dust seal to keep water from seeping into the bearing housing. I have the original AMC/JEEP Dealer service manuals that show the bearing on the inside then the race on the outside. the thick part of the race is what holds the bearing in place against the retainer.
BarberChop you have cost me a lot of money by following your bad advice. Your advice applies to the OEM two piece axle where shims are used on one side. The one piece axle upgrade is engineered to use a bearing spacer that is machined down to the correct depth to set preload and it is not a floating axle design. No thrust block required. The spacer is pressing against the outer race. If the cone was on the inside like you suggested then the spacer would be pressing the outer race away from the cone. He installed according to directions that come with one piece axle upgrade kits.
I took the flange nut off , tried a puller , did several burnouts , heated it and trust me , them flanges just dont strip or come off . lol . They are as good as welded .
Thanks for sharing. The process and tolerance details where easy to follow. Cheers! Mike
Happy to have helped. This kit in particular really leaves the installer out in the dark.
Man, I could have used this video 25 years ago when I installed my Moser axles. Don't remember following all of those steps, but 80k miles later it still turns.
The Moser units have a slightly different arrangement, but similar concept. These shafts were from Omix or Crown. Not even sure they had their names on it, rather supplied through their shelves.
Excellent video! Very well done! Thanks for sharing your expertise . 🙏
Much appreciated feedback and support! Thank you!
PepBoys installed new bearings and spacer ON my '84 CJ7 (along with a new TruTrac diff) and didn't know what they were doing. Within 5 miles I thought my brakes were dragging it got so hot. They redid it and still didn't get it right, so when I got back to Michigan I had my local Ring and Pinion shop redo it. They had to replace the axles as PepBoys screwed up the axle removing the bearings.
Yikes! If you stay to the traditional shim-preload style (factory), they may have just slapped the original back in and didn't realize those were responsible for the shaft bearing preload. The new bearing set may need a totally different preload setting.
In the style we installed, the filing down of that race spacer is where the preload is accomplished. Please note that this will vary kit to kit... notice others commenting here are arguing this install, compared to theirs. There are DIFFERENT KITS out there. It is vital to get back to each manufacturer and get their direct guidance. The reason I made this video was because the instructions were half a sheet of paper and a mere 2-D diagram, no words. I contacted the manufacturer and took detailed notes, and even emailed back the progress to ensure we were doing THIS kit right. It isn't easy!!
Thank you great info about the retainer plate
Seemed like a great vid if I was to that point. I'm still having trouble identifying which axle I have. Any vids on that?
Good info and explanation! Thanks!
Great video. Well done and very informative! Thanks
Appreciate the feedback!! Glad to help!
What do you do with the Thrust Block in the spider gear in the differential? I don't think it's needed anymore as there is no wheel bearing adjustment. Is it just left to bounce around in the diff?
Recently had a discussion on the 2pc design since its related to the Roxor as well. Too bad, you didn't give some video to the difficulty to remove the hub...and show the spline (keyway) of the 2pc axle shaft.
Good point! That painful task is exactly why we went with the one piece shaft kit. The 41 yr old axle shafts were not releasing the hubs and we just scrapped them, cut the bearings off to access the needed parts and moved everything to the new shafts. We reached a point where time is money and the new kit was less than $300. That's nearly 3 hours saved and upgrades gained
Great Video. How did you know at which point to stop when pressing the bearing onto the axle?
Most kits will have a final ridge or lip another good tip is to do one shaft at a time in its entirety... this allows you to compare the old shaft and bearing positioning.
Think about it the retainer is holding the race it place but since you installed it backwards what is keeping the bearing retained,, the bearing cage... also there is a axle button (thrust button) between the axles in the carrier assembly this makes it a semi floating axle your bearings installed in this manor makes it have excessive strain against the retainer and bearings.
Thanks for the great tutorial! Very very helpful.
I am doing this for a 1985 Jeep CJ7 and have a couple of questions which I am hoping you could help. I opted to go with the "TenFactory" one-piece axle kit. According to the instructions, the bearing race should protrude from the axle housing with a .020 - .060 tolerance. If it protrudes further than .060, then the spacer should be filed down until the tolerance is within the limit.
My race only reaches to the inner-bevel of the housing, which seems wrong to me. Maybe they sent the wrong sized spacer? The fact that the race doesn't extrude beyond the housing at all, makes me think something is not right.
Another question...What is considered "binding"? In attempt to troubleshoot this original issue, I went ahead and assembled the axle/hub on to the housing and bolted it down to spec. The instructions say there should be no "binding". When I rotate the hub assembly, there is a decent amount of resistance, and I do here a little noise as I turn. I just don't know if that is normal, or if resistance and noise is considered "binding", which means too much pressure on the bearing? I'm not sure what is considered proper resistance. Should it be making ANY rotational sound?
Thanks!
Hello great video. Question I’m doing this , where can I get the bearing kit? Race, spacer, etc etc . Can’t find the parts. Thanks
At 2:30 removing the small collar. Since the collar is the only part of the bearing touching and held in by the back plate, the small collar must be the only thing that stops the axle shaft coming out when fully assembled. When bolted down, the back plate and then the collar push on the ends of the bearing rollers which then push on the outer race. Therefore the inner race and therefore the axle shaft is left to flop about. How is the bearing kept tight so there is no play at the wheel ?
What bearing set did you use I need two of them
I would love to know what seals you are using inside the axle tubes. I have a Warn full float axle conversion on my AMC 20 and said seal would fix my leak without having to find rare parts.
This was a simple Omix kit. No reclaling the exact brand name, but it''s apparently their "off road line". Client chose this route due to avoiding labor times on fighting the two piece shaft breakdown and rebuild. As far as I saw and compared from the OE seals that we removed, they were plain and simple OE replacements. We honestly didn't think to inspect and notate any information like that during the job.
@@PlatinumOffRoad Awesome, thank you so much!
@@desertzuki4182 certainly! Hope we were helpful
I have had this done on my 1979 cj 5. I am bringing it back to the same shop for the forth time. the left side keeps burning the bearing out after only a hundred miles or less. Is there something they may be missing?
The bearing preload needs to be within tolerance. They'll burn up pretty quick if not at a proper tension. They may be using an inexperienced technician that perhaps hasn't worked with enough bearings to have a feel for a good rotational resistance.
What is your opinion of sugnificant trimming of the spacer? How much did you initially take off?
Very Professional... thanks
Thank you for the support! Hope it was helpful!
What exactly, holds the bearing which is pressed onto the shaft, into the outer race??? The bearing seats directly against the seal.
Go to 7:25 mark in video. The shaft is milled down and there's a raised level at the end that stops the bearing as its being pressed. The inner race and bearing cage are pressed to this lip and then the retainer ring pressed against that.
Hello, can you give me the part number to that axle shaft inner seal? Thanks!
Aren't there shims you use to adjust the proper gap?
Not all kits use shims to set the bearing preload. This kit used the spacer concept that requires depth modification. But yes, there are kits out there using shims
Does the bearing spacer touch the inner seal once it's installed?
You should make the intro louder
I saw you didn't use any shims,is that normal on the conversation?
There is different conversions when it comes to this job. We've done other brands using shims. This kit was very vague with instructions and so after many phone calls and emails back and forth with the manufacturer, we decided a video was best for others to have. We worked with the manufacturer here to knock out the passenger side, then filmed the driver side once we had everything clarified and successfully installed on the passenger.
what make and model one piece axle kit was this?
Good information
Thanks for the feedback!
Lol double the trouble, nice informational video though
Nice
Ok I got to say this. I don't get it. I've done plenty of AMC 20 axles mostly in AMX. Hornets Javelins ect but same axle. I did do one in a CJ a few years ago and all are working perfect to this day. I have a Gremlin AMC 20 that I am about to do and also my 70 AMX will be done soon that I just bought. So I have the experience. Please remember this about the AMC 20. IT IS A SEMI FLOATING AXLE DESIGN. So why are you installing the race and bearing backwards. its not just you but all the videos I see. The bearing goes first the the outer cone with the thick part of the cone to the outside. There is also no need to file the spacer since there is shims that go between the housing and retainer for just that. also you should put a very small amount of silicone between the housing and each shim and retainer and outer dust seal to keep water from seeping into the bearing housing. I have the original AMC/JEEP Dealer service manuals that show the bearing on the inside then the race on the outside. the thick part of the race is what holds the bearing in place against the retainer.
BarberChop you have cost me a lot of money by following your bad advice. Your advice applies to the OEM two piece axle where shims are used on one side. The one piece axle upgrade is engineered to use a bearing spacer that is machined down to the correct depth to set preload and it is not a floating axle design. No thrust block required. The spacer is pressing against the outer race. If the cone was on the inside like you suggested then the spacer would be pressing the outer race away from the cone. He installed according to directions that come with one piece axle upgrade kits.
@@stiglu you should reread the directions for installation kit. Better yet, look at the diagram picture. I'm with BarberChop 100%!
Is it necessary to remove the thrust block, I've seen kits that suggest it?
Not very informative at all?