After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.
Nice setup. I do have a couple of comments. 1) Ditch the PWM controller and install an MPPT controller. That will get you about 15-20% more out of your panels. I would suggest a Victron SmartSolar 100/50. 2) You need two shutoff switches and bigger fuses. You need a switch rated for at least 60 amps between the panels and the batteries and based on the inverter listed in your link at least a 250 amp rated switch between the batteries and the inverter. I would suggest a 60 amp surface mount circuit breaker between the batteries and panels and a standard battery switch between the batteries and inverter. You also need to up the fuse between the batteries and the inverter to 250 amps. I say that because you list a Victron 3,000 watt Multiplus inverter in your link which can draw 250 amps from a 12 volt system. Even if you only have the 800 watt Multiplus Inverter you will need a 70 amp fuse. 3) A bit of terminology. On the DC side (battery side) of the system the connections are positive (+) and negative (-). On the AC side of the system the connections are Load (L), Neutral (N) and Ground (G).
Todd has some good points. You have four 170 watt panels (680 watt total), with a 12V circuit. Power (Watt) = Volts * Amps for DC. If the four panels are generating 170 Watts Each, you will be close to 15 Amps from each panel. The total current could reach 60 amps and the fuse would blow. The 4 AWG wire is appropriate for this current, so that was a good choice. Folks often run the charger at 12V then step up on the output side by putting the batteries in Series to make the system a higher voltage. 48 Volts (4 - 12 Volt Batteries) would be 1/4 the current of a 12 V supply to the Inverter. I suspect that you have revised the system by now. Your presentation was informative. On the AC side, your AC panel is a 50 Amp 240 Volt split phase panel. Not sure how you tied it in. Again 10 AWG is appropriate for a 50 Amp Circuit. Your inverter is wired for 120 Volt, if you had a 240 Volt inverter you would have half the current going to Distribution Panel in the Camper. This would require a four lead supply wire for the split phase input. The shore power input likely has its own power inverter so that it can accept 120 or 240 volt inputs. I would also expect that you can not use AC line power any longer. This would normally require some type of transfer switch. I keep looking into this for both portable power systems and some home backup power.
You need to make a Chanel yourself. I'd like to see what you do. I'm using portable 100w pannel and battery that's 300w. I want to install a solar system. Bluetti have batteries that last longer then most batteries. Their cycle goes longer for 80% charge then most.
I’m getting ready to install solar into my toy hauler. It is “pre wired” but this is great information. I’m starting with 2 400watt Renogy panels & a 40amp Bluetooth connected Renogy solar controller going to a 200AH battery. I just bought the camper and have not even taken possession of it yet so I may wind up needing other components like a good inverter. Ultimately it made more sense to wait and see what I’ve actually got before I start getting too much stuff for the build.
Looks like you are bringing the shore power directly to the inverter AND also directly to the onboard breaker box. You also are bringing the AC out from the inverter back to the breaker box. I have two questions, #1- Why do you bring shore power to both the breaker box and the inverter and #2- How do you wire both the shore power cable and the cable from the inverter into your 120 side of that breaker box? Thanks, great video.
yep. wondering the same regarding question #1. but I'm assuming it's so they can run shore or (generator) if they switch of the inverter with that little switch they had installed. Regarding #2. I think you can just use the same tab, both in the same spot, it's all the same really if you think about it...
You only used #10 wire🤔 that’s good for only 30amps. I know at least the electrical side because I’m an electrician. But a newbie when it comes to solar and connecting everything. 4/O is huge. Was it copper?
WELL DONE! This is the best, well thought out and simplest explanation on line! Extremely helpful for US visual learners! Now ......having said that........I have now realized and accepted.....I need to hire someone to install this. (Southern California area) I'm ok with that.
Good video. At 2:07, I think you meant to say 'negative' not 'nuetral' though. AC (120-volt) has a hot, nuetral and a ground. DC (12-volt) has a positive and a negative (not nuetral).
Thanks for this video! I have an 06 motorhome that doesn’t have solar, but I think it should. Integrating solar with the existing 12V panel was what I couldn’t figure out!
Just subbed. I have another channel which is an outdoors channel and buildin' a "stealth camper from a new 7x14 enclosed trailer and just gettin' to the Propane, DC, AC and Solar now. Thanks for the video
This video is close to what I need. I just bought a 1990 van and it has an old solar system in it. It is no longer charging and I have yet to figure out why. It is an old Magnetech 6300 converter with two breakers. I don't have a charge controller as far as I can tell unless it is in the magnetec unit? I am just looking for vids to help me out before I start tearing into everything to trace wiring.. I don't know much about solar etc. I have two sets of wires coming out of the panel. One set shows about 19V. The other set shows zero. There is a monitoring panel that shows not charging, charging and charged. When I bought the van the two deep cycle batteries were charged, I checked them. The monitor showed between charging and fully charged throughout the days that followed. I disconnected the van battery and went through everything to see what was running off the marine batteries, then reconnected the van battery. I worked on her for about two weeks when I noticed monitor was showing not charging. Now the marine batteries are dead and the monitor shows a red light for not charging. I tested the wires from the solar panel as stated earlier. They run into the monitor and from there I know not where.The monitor also has a digital readout next to it with a switch. When I flip the switch it shows 19.x. I am guessing that is the 19V I am reading with the meter off the incoming wires? I haven't been driving the van, it is in my driveway and I am doing a lot of work on it. I have been starting it and letting it run about every third day for about 20 minutes till she is warmed up for awhile. When the van is running the monitor still shows it is not charging. I know, everyone is going to tell me to buy a new converter, inverter, new solar panels etc. I just want to try and fix what I have. This van is only for short camping visits and gone fishing. I need all the help I can get. I have meters and know how to use them. I can't find a wiring diagram for the magnetek 6300 for one and don't know enough about solar. I can fix my own guitar amps. Click my icon for original music videos if anyone might be interested.
the big thing I'm trying to get a feel for is how much can this run and "comfortable" on your on it in terms of what you can use and for how long.... also, anyone able to do this size of array on a smaller travel trailer, let's say one of those micro lites sub 16'??? really curious cause that's all I can tow right now....but need DAT POWA!!!!
Great addition to your other solar video. I should be getting my panels today... it will be almost identical to your system. Thanks for the great tutorial!
Hey man nice video but i have a question. I have 200w solar panol kit and cames everything . You think i can add another 2 more solar panol to tha kit. Juts the solar panol?
awesome video.. !! I have recently bought myself they thunderbolt 100 watt solar system from harbor freight.. so yea looking around finding different ideas how to hook this thing up..
Why is there a direct connection from shore power to your fuse box? Shouldn't it go to the inverter first and then the fuse box? As I understand (which could totally be wrong), there shouldn't be both a direct connection from shore power and from the inverter. Could you please explain this part? I'm still learning.
Crushing it bro. Whoever thumbed down this is a punk! Great vid 👍 Got two 100w renogy panels and 2 more coming with 30A Renogy mppt charge controller. Will also have the new Renogy lithium batteries. Not paying for camp grounds pays it all off very quickly.
Some people just thumbs down because they're not interested in the content as it was most likely put in their suggested page not necessarily because they thought it was a bad video. You'll like those panels and charge controller. I have 4 of them charging 4 batteries when I wall tent camp and it is way more than enough to even run a chest freezer that I converted to a fridge, tv for several hours, lights, charge phones/tablets etc and it barely puts a dent in battery drain!
Newbie Question , just received my first solar panel Briefcase style (Richsolar)100w with PWM controller to use while camping to help keep batteries up. do i need to disconnect it if i am going to run my Generator for the whole Travel trailer ? will it case damage to the system. thanks
Have a question. How do I set up a system where I’m connected to shore power but want to run my refrigerator only on dc that’s being recharged by the solar. But on the chance that solar doesn’t cut it the battery charger takes over.
i am very new to this, so i see you connected the inverter to the main panel but what if you have dc things, do you hook your batteries up to your panel as well, most rvs have a battery system already so i guess you would just hook your new batteries to that. does that make sence?
Thanks for sharing it, well explained. I'm planning to jump on the road soon and my biggest doubt is about the power to be able to work on my MacBook on some remote place.
Just noticed you said 4 ought for the battery connection !! doubt that as a 200 amp residential panel will have 2 ought feeding from the utility line down into the meter socket , pretty sure you made a error there ..lol
Maybe I missed it but does the regular RV hookups just connect to the batteries as well so the system can also charge while driving? I realize this is a camper and not an RV.
Hey brother, I noticed you said you updated your diagram? Not sure where to find it? Do you have a updated equipment suggestion? Looking to do a install in my BBQ competition trailer I'm savy but not a techie😂
Nicely done. One question; why did you have to go back to the inverter from the control panel. Correct me if I’m wrong but you used 10AWG 3 strand wire, so I’m confused on why you had to go back to the inverter. Thanks for your help in advance, I’m almost done I just need to connect my 3000 watt inverter to the 120 components. Thank again Geoff
Really great video, thanks for sharing. I’m surprised 4/0 gauge was used at your battery connections. Most of what I’m seeing has 2/0 recommended. I’m planning something very similar with the exception of the multiplus. Planning a standalone inverter with GoPower TS-30 transfer switch.
Thank you it all makes more sense now. A question if you have time... you have a 60 amp controller and I think a 30 amp fuse or shunt? Is there an advantage over a 30amp charge controller?
No question is dumb. It doesn't look like The Chick's Life has much free time to answer questions. But I know the answer to this. SHORE power is a boating term referring to the AC electrical hook up provided at a dock in a marina, along the shore (if in a boat) or a campground (if in RV). A lot of other RV terminology derives from boating.
@@covidfartfog8076 Oh of course you say? So what is the piece of hardware to take the charge from the panels and change it to being sourced from the alternator?
Alternator brings up ALL batteries. Voltage regulator control panel regulates voltage going from the solar panels to the batteries to keep them at optimum charge.
Licensed C-10 ( CA ) Electrician this looks like a piece of cake to Install , never actually hooked up R/V solar , my question to you is - can you buy a full R/V solar kit with the installation manual ?
Avg current is about 9A 12 18 per panel… 4 x 9 is 36A Why 60A controller 🤨🤔🤨 40A not good enough? 4awg is good enough Heck maybe 6awg or at a push 8awg 🤨 I mean the fuse will pop at less Depends on the inverter initial start up draw I guess (some come fused or double fused for such) 2AWG is more for hooking parallel and direct to alternator 🤨 Would have thought a smart shunt would include the battery monitor? How you’re hooking up your panels in parallel though… 😶 can see you’re not quite a leccy with that “earthing”
Good video, but you really need to know the differences between Earth (ground/ negative), Neutral and Live (Positive). If you start telling people that a Earth (ground/ negative) is a "Neutral", like you were throughout this video, potentially, someone is going to get hurt. Your DC system has an Earth (ground/ negative) wire, and is usually black; and a Live (Positive) wire which is red. There is no Neutral on your DC system. The Neutral is found on your AC system only. Getting that mixed up on an AC system can be lethal!
I'm a visual learner as well, so this video really helped my understanding so much! THANK YOU for that. Much appreciated. Go Nerds! LOL! Have a Glamperrific Day! 👍😀🌈🤪🌈😎🌈😍
lol. Yes, you are right! Slip of the tongue when I was talking. It is a 300amp fuse. You can check out all the parts we used here. www.amazon.com/shop/thechickslife
*I love the Input/Output wattage function along with the % of charge remaining. solar **Generater.Systems** Well done.*
I'm a visual learner too. So can you come over so I can watch you install it. Lol
😂
From one visual learner to another…THANK YOU!
After reading many reviews and watching a lot of videos, I chose this option for my first backup power station. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHypYDKHAN93Lp2RQpfvU_ksc70wJ00pt I was between this and a larger option that could power a wider range of items, but the price/size/capacity blend seemed right for this unit. Hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, but the build quality is solid and it charges fine via the Rockpals solar panel I purchased to pair with it. One thing to note is that the screen is optimized for a top down viewing angle, which makes sense, but this means it washes out at other angles - especially low angles. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a better option for the display could be used to provide wider viewing angles.
Nice setup. I do have a couple of comments.
1) Ditch the PWM controller and install an MPPT controller. That will get you about 15-20% more out of your panels. I would suggest a Victron SmartSolar 100/50.
2) You need two shutoff switches and bigger fuses. You need a switch rated for at least 60 amps between the panels and the batteries and based on the inverter listed in your link at least a 250 amp rated switch between the batteries and the inverter. I would suggest a 60 amp surface mount circuit breaker between the batteries and panels and a standard battery switch between the batteries and inverter. You also need to up the fuse between the batteries and the inverter to 250 amps. I say that because you list a Victron 3,000 watt Multiplus inverter in your link which can draw 250 amps from a 12 volt system. Even if you only have the 800 watt Multiplus Inverter you will need a 70 amp fuse.
3) A bit of terminology. On the DC side (battery side) of the system the connections are positive (+) and negative (-). On the AC side of the system the connections are Load (L), Neutral (N) and Ground (G).
Thanks for the info.
Todd has some good points. You have four 170 watt panels (680 watt total), with a 12V circuit. Power (Watt) = Volts * Amps for DC. If the four panels are generating 170 Watts Each, you will be close to 15 Amps from each panel. The total current could reach 60 amps and the fuse would blow. The 4 AWG wire is appropriate for this current, so that was a good choice. Folks often run the charger at 12V then step up on the output side by putting the batteries in Series to make the system a higher voltage. 48 Volts (4 - 12 Volt Batteries) would be 1/4 the current of a 12 V supply to the Inverter. I suspect that you have revised the system by now. Your presentation was informative.
On the AC side, your AC panel is a 50 Amp 240 Volt split phase panel. Not sure how you tied it in. Again 10 AWG is appropriate for a 50 Amp Circuit. Your inverter is wired for 120 Volt, if you had a 240 Volt inverter you would have half the current going to Distribution Panel in the Camper. This would require a four lead supply wire for the split phase input. The shore power input likely has its own power inverter so that it can accept 120 or 240 volt inputs. I would also expect that you can not use AC line power any longer. This would normally require some type of transfer switch. I keep looking into this for both portable power systems and some home backup power.
You need to make a Chanel yourself. I'd like to see what you do. I'm using portable 100w pannel and battery that's 300w. I want to install a solar system. Bluetti have batteries that last longer then most batteries. Their cycle goes longer for 80% charge then most.
@@jamesspader85 If you are replying to me, I have a channel. Just click on my name. I have several hundred videos including quite a few about solar.
Very informative, thanks for zooming in on the actual connections while you were explaining - it helps a lot to understand the layout.
Goose and Mavarick...I love it. I appreciate the Top Gun design video.
Good job explaining and yes I too understand a lot better by seeing your diagram. Thank you
The diagram is helpful. Schematics are worth a thousand words.
This level of nerdiness aint nothin. I made a diagram of a screenshot whilst watching. ;)
I’m getting ready to install solar into my toy hauler. It is “pre wired” but this is great information.
I’m starting with 2 400watt Renogy panels & a 40amp Bluetooth connected Renogy solar controller going to a 200AH battery.
I just bought the camper and have not even taken possession of it yet so I may wind up needing other components like a good inverter. Ultimately it made more sense to wait and see what I’ve actually got before I start getting too much stuff for the build.
Looks like you are bringing the shore power directly to the inverter AND also directly to the onboard breaker box. You also are bringing the AC out from the inverter back to the breaker box. I have two questions, #1- Why do you bring shore power to both the breaker box and the inverter and #2- How do you wire both the shore power cable and the cable from the inverter into your 120 side of that breaker box? Thanks, great video.
yep. wondering the same regarding question #1. but I'm assuming it's so they can run shore or (generator) if they switch of the inverter with that little switch they had installed. Regarding #2. I think you can just use the same tab, both in the same spot, it's all the same really if you think about it...
You only used #10 wire🤔 that’s good for only 30amps. I know at least the electrical side because I’m an electrician. But a newbie when it comes to solar and connecting everything. 4/O is huge. Was it copper?
Great video. Thank you !
WELL DONE! This is the best, well thought out and simplest explanation on line! Extremely helpful for US visual learners!
Now ......having said that........I have now realized and accepted.....I need to hire someone to install this. (Southern California area) I'm ok with that.
Good video. At 2:07, I think you meant to say 'negative' not 'nuetral' though. AC (120-volt) has a hot, nuetral and a ground. DC (12-volt) has a positive and a negative (not nuetral).
Great information dude great video 👍👍
Great job,! Yep, getting ready to tackle mine.
Thanks
Thank you drawings are helpful with explanation. ❤️🤗
Best video for solar ever!
Maverick and Goose! love it :D
I'm with you...I have to see it to understand it. Thanks for the video, it really helped
Great job
Thanks for this video! I have an 06 motorhome that doesn’t have solar, but I think it should. Integrating solar with the existing 12V panel was what I couldn’t figure out!
Visual learner here too. Liked and subscribed! 😁
Awesome explanation. 👌 thank you you helped me alot
Great job on explaining everything. 👏
great video!
Dope asf. You deserve more traction on this platform
Instantly ‘liked’ and bookmarked as soon as you said you were a visual learner and threw up that diagram. 🤣🙌
What is "shant" on the positive line from charge controller to battery? A circuit breaker??
Thank you guys!
Great video, I must be missing something, I cannot find your link to the list of components that you used.....
Im visual too and maybe your visual will help my visual understand more so I can figure out what all I need to buy..
Just subbed. I have another channel which is an outdoors channel and buildin' a "stealth camper from a new 7x14 enclosed trailer and just gettin' to the Propane, DC, AC and Solar now. Thanks for the video
This video is close to what I need. I just bought a 1990 van and it has an old solar system in it. It is no longer charging and I have yet to figure out why. It is an old Magnetech 6300 converter with two breakers. I don't have a charge controller as far as I can tell unless it is in the magnetec unit? I am just looking for vids to help me out before I start tearing into everything to trace wiring.. I don't know much about solar etc. I have two sets of wires coming out of the panel. One set shows about 19V. The other set shows zero. There is a monitoring panel that shows not charging, charging and charged. When I bought the van the two deep cycle batteries were charged, I checked them. The monitor showed between charging and fully charged throughout the days that followed. I disconnected the van battery and went through everything to see what was running off the marine batteries, then reconnected the van battery. I worked on her for about two weeks when I noticed monitor was showing not charging. Now the marine batteries are dead and the monitor shows a red light for not charging. I tested the wires from the solar panel as stated earlier. They run into the monitor and from there I know not where.The monitor also has a digital readout next to it with a switch. When I flip the switch it shows 19.x. I am guessing that is the 19V I am reading with the meter off the incoming wires? I haven't been driving the van, it is in my driveway and I am doing a lot of work on it. I have been starting it and letting it run about every third day for about 20 minutes till she is warmed up for awhile. When the van is running the monitor still shows it is not charging.
I know, everyone is going to tell me to buy a new converter, inverter, new solar panels etc. I just want to try and fix what I have. This van is only for short camping visits and gone fishing. I need all the help I can get. I have meters and know how to use them. I can't find a wiring diagram for the magnetek 6300 for one and don't know enough about solar. I can fix my own guitar amps. Click my icon for original music videos if anyone might be interested.
Thanks
GOOSE? MAVERICK? ...... “woods bin hit woods bin hit....!, we lost Hollywood” hahaha excellent!
the big thing I'm trying to get a feel for is how much can this run and "comfortable" on your on it in terms of what you can use and for how long.... also, anyone able to do this size of array on a smaller travel trailer, let's say one of those micro lites sub 16'??? really curious cause that's all I can tow right now....but need DAT POWA!!!!
Great addition to your other solar video. I should be getting my panels today... it will be almost identical to your system. Thanks for the great tutorial!
Nice! Well hopefully this helps you out. You’ll have to share your setup with us when it’s done!
Hey man nice video but i have a question. I have 200w solar panol kit and cames everything . You think i can add another 2 more solar panol to tha kit. Juts the solar panol?
Remotes definitely save power! Super excited to get solar ourselves- still looking at systems- congratulations on everything!! Yours looks great.
Thank you! Good luck on you hunt. If you have any questions about systems feel free to ask!
Are you still using this system? Can I get your feedback on it and possibly the diagram and components?
Loved this video helped me a lot, thank you
where did you get the 2 junction boxes for the solar panel wiring to 5th wheel roof? Yhanks
Would be nice to have links to the products that you used.
Do you run a firdge an microwave and the ac with this system ?
Are you glad you used the 12v system vs the 24 or 48?
awesome video.. !! I have recently bought myself they thunderbolt 100 watt solar system from harbor freight.. so yea looking around finding different ideas how to hook this thing up..
How did you hook all of these wires up?! I need help. 😫
Where do you get all the pieces to the solar?
What about the old converter (120vAC to 12vDC) box that was on the RV to begin with? Did you yank that out?
I was thinking the same thing. He must have.. really no need for it with all that other stuff.
How is the system working for you now? Would you change anything based on whats currently available?
Why is there a direct connection from shore power to your fuse box? Shouldn't it go to the inverter first and then the fuse box? As I understand (which could totally be wrong), there shouldn't be both a direct connection from shore power and from the inverter. Could you please explain this part? I'm still learning.
Crushing it bro. Whoever thumbed down this is a punk! Great vid 👍 Got two 100w renogy panels and 2 more coming with 30A Renogy mppt charge controller. Will also have the new Renogy lithium batteries. Not paying for camp grounds pays it all off very quickly.
Some people just thumbs down because they're not interested in the content as it was most likely put in their suggested page not necessarily because they thought it was a bad video. You'll like those panels and charge controller. I have 4 of them charging 4 batteries when I wall tent camp and it is way more than enough to even run a chest freezer that I converted to a fridge, tv for several hours, lights, charge phones/tablets etc and it barely puts a dent in battery drain!
Newbie Question , just received my first solar panel Briefcase style (Richsolar)100w with PWM controller to use while camping to help keep batteries up. do i need to disconnect it if i am going to run my Generator for the whole Travel trailer ? will it case damage to the system. thanks
Have a question. How do I set up a system where I’m connected to shore power but want to run my refrigerator only on dc that’s being recharged by the solar. But on the chance that solar doesn’t cut it the battery charger takes over.
Btw you should have the negative wire from your solar going to your second battery for more even charging not to the first with the positive
Do you have an automatic switch to plug into shore power if you want?
Can this offgrid solar power AC units on full blast 24/7?
i am very new to this, so i see you connected the inverter to the main panel but what if you have dc things, do you hook your batteries up to your panel as well, most rvs have a battery system already so i guess you would just hook your new batteries to that. does that make sence?
Thanks for sharing it, well explained. I'm planning to jump on the road soon and my biggest doubt is about the power to be able to work on my MacBook on some remote place.
How did you add your alternator into the equation
Just noticed you said 4 ought for the battery connection !! doubt that as a 200 amp residential panel will have 2 ought feeding from the utility line down into the meter socket , pretty sure you made a error there ..lol
Maybe I missed it but does the regular RV hookups just connect to the batteries as well so the system can also charge while driving? I realize this is a camper and not an RV.
Where did you buy all the components at for your system and about how much did you spend, I already have solar panels Thanks Jeff k.
Hey brother, I noticed you said you updated your diagram? Not sure where to find it? Do you have a updated equipment suggestion?
Looking to do a install in my BBQ competition trailer I'm savy but not a techie😂
Nicely done. One question; why did you have to go back to the inverter from the control panel. Correct me if I’m wrong but you used 10AWG 3 strand wire, so I’m confused on why you had to go back to the inverter. Thanks for your help in advance, I’m almost done I just need to connect my 3000 watt inverter to the 120 components.
Thank again
Geoff
Where did you get your solar panels
new sub here... great info.. tring to figure out my shuttle bus solar setup, but using two 120W suitcases... this video will help
Really great video, thanks for sharing. I’m surprised 4/0 gauge was used at your battery connections. Most of what I’m seeing has 2/0 recommended. I’m planning something very similar with the exception of the multiplus. Planning a standalone inverter with GoPower TS-30 transfer switch.
So every thing I am learning you can run everything in the rv with solar except the air conditioning is that correct?
Did u use silicone
Thank you it all makes more sense now. A question if you have time... you have a 60 amp controller and I think a 30 amp fuse or shunt? Is there an advantage over a 30amp charge controller?
It`s best to buy a larger amp controller in case you want to upgrade with more panels later.
Hi. Any regrets or upgrades in the 2yrsof use?
More solar would be great, but other than that it’s amazing.
How do the solar panels not just fly off the roof as you're driving down the freeway? Or are they just put up there once you arrive?
What can u run on your setup
Ok I have to ask. What are you looking at when you are talking?
How much would all this be money wise? And who can install all this? I don’t want to burn my RV 😬
Cost + electronic technologically challenged = I'm looking at plug_and_play systems. Totally want answers to your questions, too.
I feel dumb for asking but what is the thing that you have labeled as "shore" on the diagram and what does it do?
No question is dumb. It doesn't look like The Chick's Life has much free time to answer questions. But I know the answer to this. SHORE power is a boating term referring to the AC electrical hook up provided at a dock in a marina, along the shore (if in a boat) or a campground (if in RV). A lot of other RV terminology derives from boating.
When you are pulling this rig, does your truck alternator still charge your 12v batteries?
Ofcourse it would
@@covidfartfog8076 Oh of course you say? So what is the piece of hardware to take the charge from the panels and change it to being sourced from the alternator?
Alternator brings up ALL batteries. Voltage regulator control panel regulates voltage going from the solar panels to the batteries to keep them at optimum charge.
I really like seeing the diagram - does the 12 volt out of the inverter power the "old" 12 volt fuse box? everything else seemed to click for me.
Yes. That entire system is the same. Instead of hooking up to the original battery directly it is attached at the inverted.
@@TheChicksLife Thanks that's what I figured. Does the inverter have to be on for the 12volt system to work?
I think i have a better understanding
What’s the rough price for this set up?
How much u will say the to total cost ?
I bought a 400 watt Remote solar system kit. Want to hook to a Ford class C
Licensed C-10 ( CA ) Electrician this looks like a piece of cake to Install , never actually hooked up R/V solar , my question to you is - can you buy a full R/V solar kit with the installation manual ?
Solar panels controller batteries then inverter got it
What was your cost on this?
Avg current is about 9A 12 18 per panel…
4 x 9 is 36A
Why 60A controller 🤨🤔🤨
40A not good enough?
4awg is good enough
Heck maybe 6awg or at a push 8awg 🤨
I mean the fuse will pop at less
Depends on the inverter initial start up draw I guess (some come fused or double fused for such)
2AWG is more for hooking parallel and direct to alternator 🤨
Would have thought a smart shunt would include the battery monitor?
How you’re hooking up your panels in parallel though… 😶 can see you’re not quite a leccy with that “earthing”
How much it cost on the those?
how much is a system like that cost?
Oh my gosh that’s a lot of money- is there like nothing else l can do?
Good video, but you really need to know the differences between Earth (ground/ negative), Neutral and Live (Positive). If you start telling people that a Earth (ground/ negative) is a "Neutral", like you were throughout this video, potentially, someone is going to get hurt.
Your DC system has an Earth (ground/ negative) wire, and is usually black; and a Live (Positive) wire which is red. There is no Neutral on your DC system. The Neutral is found on your AC system only. Getting that mixed up on an AC system can be lethal!
I'm a visual learner as well, so this video really helped my understanding so much! THANK YOU for that. Much appreciated. Go Nerds! LOL!
Have a Glamperrific Day!
👍😀🌈🤪🌈😎🌈😍
Honestly I wonder if should replace my house with solar power. Wouldn’t I save up in electricity bills??
30A catastrophic fuse? You should be using 300A fuse.
lol. Yes, you are right! Slip of the tongue when I was talking. It is a 300amp fuse. You can check out all the parts we used here. www.amazon.com/shop/thechickslife
you lost me at "Shunt". lol
Can I run on this all day
Hi I'm at the Walmart your at!
lol. Awesome!
But it’s not tapped into the generator what the duck