It is interesting for me too. It is interesting watching other people try a product I reviewed. I have had 3 customers buy the Vbox now and they had the same opinion as I did when I did the view.
Whats the chance of doing a 'how to' when making custom arrows... as currently I'm going to a more target focus with my arrows rather then off the shelf budget item ie £50 for 12 (400 spine, 100 grain point etc savage arrow) I've recently moved to a Id 3.9mm carbon/aluminium arrow with break off points (150 to 100 grain) I've fitted the nock pin, nock, fletching's no issue the point I've removed the x2 clearly visible snap off parts of the point (my view that should bring it down to 100g?? the remaining) anyway at 18m this new arrow drops 8inches on my target.. I'm guessing the tip is still too heavy, are you then to cut other sections from the rear of the point... yes I'm blind currently as I've not yet received my grain scale (it is ordered) advice would be or recommendations?? I've tried doing a utube search for arrow making/point weight etc & I cant find anything relevant (anyone elses advice would be great aswell)
Can I say everyone has done this before. Tried all the arrows and the point weights. Most people have different views. I have people on a world stage shooting between 150 and 110g points. For recurve spine is important as it needs to flex around the bow. With compound some say lighter spine is more forgiving and others say the opposite. I have tried most things and I do them on the Channel. The thing which makes the most amount of difference is shooting. My scores if I shoot once a week are not bad a good club shooter. If I train each day then I get closer to top of the country. The archers on a world Stage are normally shooting 200+ arrows a day. I have gone from Goldtip to Victory, Skylon now Pandarus. I recently shot the X10 Pandarus the CA320 and I shot my best score with them but it was only 1 point better than I shot with the cheaper arrows. I shot the $100 premade arrows and shot a 299 out of 300 on my first shoot and the 9 was all me. Now if you shoot a good shot and it does not go in the middle then you have a problem. But most of the time it is the archer. Last weekend I shot poor, I was weak bad release, form struggling - this week is greatly improved. My advice with arrows is you shoot scores - then you try stuff and see if you shoot a better score. It may be the weather or you just shot better. But you record it all then you can see the difference. Im currently shooting premade arrows from the factory and the scores are fine. I am thinking about different vanes. But still focusing on form and building back.
Definitely a struggle with a draw length that long, you'd probably have to get a Bowtech or PSE orrr I've heard the elite verdict may be getting a longer ATA
Does Beiter specifically say that the ¼ end is for the connection to the stabiliser? I've had the Doinker Hero and Exo dampeners and especially with EXO being rubber at both ends is a limitation so I'd almost pay the extra to get a Beiter just to have a more secure and long lasting product. There are 2 different cores for the EXOs and i think as standard they come with a 40 on one side and a 60 on the other.
I haven't watched the whole video, but 1/4" end? I've had a pair of these with the plastic ends and now running two sets of the steel ones, and they are all 5/16".
My wife likes Doinkers as hard as possible, but mine is quite soft.
👍👍👀 I always enjoy your reviews. Especially when you open the package and no bloody clue about the product. lol
It is interesting for me too. It is interesting watching other people try a product I reviewed. I have had 3 customers buy the Vbox now and they had the same opinion as I did when I did the view.
Whats the chance of doing a 'how to' when making custom arrows... as currently I'm going to a more target focus with my arrows rather then off the shelf budget item ie £50 for 12 (400 spine, 100 grain point etc savage arrow)
I've recently moved to a Id 3.9mm carbon/aluminium arrow with break off points (150 to 100 grain) I've fitted the nock pin, nock, fletching's no issue the point I've removed the x2 clearly visible snap off parts of the point (my view that should bring it down to 100g?? the remaining) anyway at 18m this new arrow drops 8inches on my target.. I'm guessing the tip is still too heavy, are you then to cut other sections from the rear of the point...
yes I'm blind currently as I've not yet received my grain scale (it is ordered) advice would be or recommendations?? I've tried doing a utube search for arrow making/point weight etc & I cant find anything relevant (anyone elses advice would be great aswell)
Can I say everyone has done this before. Tried all the arrows and the point weights. Most people have different views. I have people on a world stage shooting between 150 and 110g points. For recurve spine is important as it needs to flex around the bow. With compound some say lighter spine is more forgiving and others say the opposite. I have tried most things and I do them on the Channel. The thing which makes the most amount of difference is shooting. My scores if I shoot once a week are not bad a good club shooter. If I train each day then I get closer to top of the country. The archers on a world Stage are normally shooting 200+ arrows a day.
I have gone from Goldtip to Victory, Skylon now Pandarus. I recently shot the X10 Pandarus the CA320 and I shot my best score with them but it was only 1 point better than I shot with the cheaper arrows. I shot the $100 premade arrows and shot a 299 out of 300 on my first shoot and the 9 was all me.
Now if you shoot a good shot and it does not go in the middle then you have a problem. But most of the time it is the archer. Last weekend I shot poor, I was weak bad release, form struggling - this week is greatly improved.
My advice with arrows is you shoot scores - then you try stuff and see if you shoot a better score. It may be the weather or you just shot better. But you record it all then you can see the difference. Im currently shooting premade arrows from the factory and the scores are fine. I am thinking about different vanes. But still focusing on form and building back.
I really like what I’m seeing from Elite for bows but with a 32” draw length I don’t know if it would work for me
Definitely a struggle with a draw length that long, you'd probably have to get a Bowtech or PSE orrr I've heard the elite verdict may be getting a longer ATA
PSE has a selection of bows for you.
@@jamesjgill I know. I have 6 of them. I’ve sold a few Elite bows in my shop and really like them. I just don’t think they will go long enough for me
Just cut your humerus short and then you can use whatever you want
Elite option 6 feels short compared to my bowtech ss but a excellent bow
Does Beiter specifically say that the ¼ end is for the connection to the stabiliser?
I've had the Doinker Hero and Exo dampeners and especially with EXO being rubber at both ends is a limitation so I'd almost pay the extra to get a Beiter just to have a more secure and long lasting product.
There are 2 different cores for the EXOs and i think as standard they come with a 40 on one side and a 60 on the other.
I haven't watched the whole video, but 1/4" end? I've had a pair of these with the plastic ends and now running two sets of the steel ones, and they are all 5/16".
@@ScottPankhurst I also thought that cause all the ones I've seen are 5/16
It says on the packet 5/16-24
Could I use this on my hunting bow?
Yes - any dampener will work. The more weights the stiffer dampener you need.