The end result looks very good! If you find that you want more low-end absorption, mounting the panels an inch or so off the wall will increase their effectiveness. Some manufacturers build the air gap into the frame so that it still has the flush mounted look while having the air gap built in.
How are they making it look flush mounted while having the gap in the back? Does that mean the trim is still touching the wall, but not the insulation? If so, that seems like it wouldn’t be as effective since the trim would block some of the sound waves from getting through to the back of the panel. Also kudos for bringing up the gap in the back. Seems like every new YT video I see on making these misses that point. You can get great results without it but it does help and should be at the least mentioned as an option.
@@DJ-Coma I don't know why this is so casually glossed over. For a 4 inch deep rigid Cornings panel, you increase the absorption efficiency by +50% if you add a 100mm gap behind the panel. This is vital for absorption below around 300Hz which is where all the problematic frequencies are in 'average' sized rooms for listening/mixing.
I clicked on this video bc of how clean they looked. I've built a ton of DIY panels and tho you didn't ask, I'll provide a couple observations. 1: Weed Barrier fabric is a great material for backing that saves some dollars, ill sometimes even use it as a base layer on the front side if planning to mount to ceiling. 2: Not sure if this is beneficial for this exact design but maybe you'd want to experiment as warping the cloth is time consuming. Since you're using wood to face the panel, I think the quickest, easiest way to have exposed wood frame and no staples is to lay the fabric over the frame then attach the face. Alls you'd have to do is lay fabric over the frame, then glue the face down and put a few brads in (it may even work with no brads idk. This would also help protect the fabric from being damaged over the years when transporting to a new location. Being able to take these panels with you is a big selling point over a framed acoustic wall. Lastly, when experiencing wrinkles in fabric, simply use a steam iron on the face as it will shrink it.
Those are by far the nicest DIY Acoustic Panels I have ever seen. Going to have to give this a try! Do you have a link to the Grey Fabric that you used? Thanks!
Lovely construction and a thoroughly informative video! Have you done any RT60 measurements before and after to verify the affects of the acoustic panels? Nice and simple to do with Room Eq Wizard (REW).
I would assume it helps reduce sound from bouncing off the wall. In that regard these panels would dampen sound both on its way towards the wall, as well as the bounced sound, essentially working twice.
This isn't a criticism. More of a question. Everyone has different room modes at different frequencies caused by the types of speakers, location of the speakers, listening position, room size/layout, and what ever is in the room to reflect or absorb. How do you know that the panels that you're deploying are going to be treating the specific frequency that needs treating. For example, I know I have a problem at 80hz but only because I've measured it. Most other people won't have measured their room from their listening position. So isn't all of this effort to treat a room just a random guess?
@UncleBenjs Yes. But why make them? And if you do decide to make them then how do you decide how thick to make them. Because the density and thickness determines the frequency range that it treats.
@@c0mbat15it isn’t rocket science. If you have a live room, put up some panels. You don’t need fancy equipment to tell you what common sense can for free. Trapping low end is a little more advanced, and is typically done in addition to basic wall paneling. So nothing wrong with what was done here in this video. Controlling low end takes a lot of space, typically several feet of various materials and cavities. A thick panel isn’t really going to do it. For home diy, speaker placement, speaker selection, and tuning is going to be a lot easier and cost effective at controlling low end. I do this for a living, btw.
@@TheMrRelic Since you do this for a living, would you say these panels should be thicker? Won't they only affect the highest frequencies? I made some panels using common wood but used 5.5" thick rockwool and have them about 3 inches off the wall. This looks to be 2" thick.
Easier? Maybe, though they're heavy so the poles would need careful fixing. Just as effective? I want to see measurements, please. Also aesthetically many would consider the panels superior, though admittedly that's subjective.
Not even close to the same absorption coefficient as panels. I do think he should have gone with 4" or thicker panels with all this work but that's just me.
It’s a table saw man and a pneumatic stapler and brad nailer, you can literally get everything at harbor freight to do this except the insulation and fabric.
I work in the music industry as a mix engineer full time. I really like this design. Best diy panels I’ve seen yet. Very well done!
The end result looks very good! If you find that you want more low-end absorption, mounting the panels an inch or so off the wall will increase their effectiveness. Some manufacturers build the air gap into the frame so that it still has the flush mounted look while having the air gap built in.
Thats good to know, thanks for the tip.
How are they making it look flush mounted while having the gap in the back? Does that mean the trim is still touching the wall, but not the insulation? If so, that seems like it wouldn’t be as effective since the trim would block some of the sound waves from getting through to the back of the panel.
Also kudos for bringing up the gap in the back. Seems like every new YT video I see on making these misses that point. You can get great results without it but it does help and should be at the least mentioned as an option.
@@DJ-Coma I don't know why this is so casually glossed over. For a 4 inch deep rigid Cornings panel, you increase the absorption efficiency by +50% if you add a 100mm gap behind the panel. This is vital for absorption below around 300Hz which is where all the problematic frequencies are in 'average' sized rooms for listening/mixing.
@@stephenfleming8030100mm gap? Yikes! 😅
Those look excellent. The edge bevel is very sharp. 👍👍
Well done, love the beveled edge look
These are awesome!
I clicked on this video bc of how clean they looked. I've built a ton of DIY panels and tho you didn't ask, I'll provide a couple observations. 1: Weed Barrier fabric is a great material for backing that saves some dollars, ill sometimes even use it as a base layer on the front side if planning to mount to ceiling. 2: Not sure if this is beneficial for this exact design but maybe you'd want to experiment as warping the cloth is time consuming. Since you're using wood to face the panel, I think the quickest, easiest way to have exposed wood frame and no staples is to lay the fabric over the frame then attach the face. Alls you'd have to do is lay fabric over the frame, then glue the face down and put a few brads in (it may even work with no brads idk. This would also help protect the fabric from being damaged over the years when transporting to a new location. Being able to take these panels with you is a big selling point over a framed acoustic wall. Lastly, when experiencing wrinkles in fabric, simply use a steam iron on the face as it will shrink it.
Very nice . Great job
Those are by far the nicest DIY Acoustic Panels I have ever seen. Going to have to give this a try! Do you have a link to the Grey Fabric that you used? Thanks!
Just added it to description. 👍
@DaveyStruggle thanks
Lovely construction and a thoroughly informative video!
Have you done any RT60 measurements before and after to verify the affects of the acoustic panels? Nice and simple to do with Room Eq Wizard (REW).
I would be very interested to know that information, ill look into it and post an update video.
@@DaveyStruggle I did post a reply yesterday, did it show in your notifications?
Awesome! But don’t forget the eye protection!
Acoustic insulation is designed to stop sound transmission between spaces. Your application is to control sound reflection within a space?
I would assume it helps reduce sound from bouncing off the wall. In that regard these panels would dampen sound both on its way towards the wall, as well as the bounced sound, essentially working twice.
Bonjour, pardon mais il manque les liens vers le tissu acoustique.
I’ll add them to the description 👍
This isn't a criticism. More of a question. Everyone has different room modes at different frequencies caused by the types of speakers, location of the speakers, listening position, room size/layout, and what ever is in the room to reflect or absorb. How do you know that the panels that you're deploying are going to be treating the specific frequency that needs treating. For example, I know I have a problem at 80hz but only because I've measured it. Most other people won't have measured their room from their listening position. So isn't all of this effort to treat a room just a random guess?
It's my understanding that this is a video on making panels, not on acoustically treating a room.
@UncleBenjs Yes. But why make them? And if you do decide to make them then how do you decide how thick to make them. Because the density and thickness determines the frequency range that it treats.
@c0mbat15 anyone making them has likely measured their room. Why are you so focused on looking at it backwards? Strange.
@@c0mbat15it isn’t rocket science. If you have a live room, put up some panels. You don’t need fancy equipment to tell you what common sense can for free. Trapping low end is a little more advanced, and is typically done in addition to basic wall paneling. So nothing wrong with what was done here in this video.
Controlling low end takes a lot of space, typically several feet of various materials and cavities. A thick panel isn’t really going to do it. For home diy, speaker placement, speaker selection, and tuning is going to be a lot easier and cost effective at controlling low end.
I do this for a living, btw.
@@TheMrRelic Since you do this for a living, would you say these panels should be thicker? Won't they only affect the highest frequencies? I made some panels using common wood but used 5.5" thick rockwool and have them about 3 inches off the wall. This looks to be 2" thick.
How much did each panel end up costing?
Probably about $65 per panel.
Hanging thick curtains was way easier and just as effective.
Easier? Maybe, though they're heavy so the poles would need careful fixing. Just as effective? I want to see measurements, please. Also aesthetically many would consider the panels superior, though admittedly that's subjective.
@cooperised ceiling the floor red velvet curtains look and feel just right in my theater.
Not even close to the same absorption coefficient as panels. I do think he should have gone with 4" or thicker panels with all this work but that's just me.
Not as cool looking.
Not exactly DiY when you have a Pro Grade workshop & tools, but nice design.
It’s a table saw man and a pneumatic stapler and brad nailer, you can literally get everything at harbor freight to do this except the insulation and fabric.
Looks like nasty old glasfiber.
They do sell a recycled material panel as well, if you don’t prefer fiberglass.