Mitico Durgin. Bellissimo video.mi piacciono molto l'inquadratura multiple, i tips, la.durata (2 ore dj incarnari come in alcuni video non si affrontano) ed anche la tabelle dei colori alternativi. Unica cosa che aggiungerei sono magari dei punti dove spieghi 'perchè'. Per sempre perché il glaze verde? Perché il giallo? Comunque Ottimo video che riguarderò stasera con più calma.per gustarmelo meglio. Grazie mille!!!
Ciao Mirko, grazie per il feed! Per quello che riguarda il verde, ti dirò, è una cosa che faccio ultimamente per riportare un po' di saturazione all'incarnato in maniera leggera ma "consistente". Tutto è partito dal vedere come in molti ritratti umani che ho visto fare a diversi illustratori "classici", l'incarnato umano partiva da una base di verde acido, che ombreggiavano aggiungendo toni di rosso e solo dopo andavano a "filtrare" con i toni color carne veri e propri. Del verde iniziale, a fine lavoro, praticamente non rimaneva nulla di visibile, ma contribuiva ad arricchire i toni dell'incarnato (o almeno, così immagino: ci sarà un motivo se partivano proprio con quel colore XDXD). Ho pensato così di provare a "bastardizzare" questo metodo e di portarlo nella mia pittura, e ho visto che in effetti una velatura quasi impercettibile di verde acido (in questo caso Scorpion Green) riesce a dare un filtro all'incarnato in maniera davvero interessante!
Thank you Thomas!! Actually, two years ago I made a kind of crazy shopping day and I bought a Sony FDR-AX100E (it was almost 40% off on amazon XD). It's an impressive cam, even if I think that we still have many things to learn about it!
@@tomahawkstudios1431 Thank you Thomas! We are working on the third part, editing the beard tutorial ^^ I want to give you a full step by step tutorial about this character! Then, I think I will focus my next video on some more complex subject (a diorama) ^^ Thank you for having supported our Kickstarter, you helped me to create my own range of Dwarves
great production! When I saw you add water to the paint on the wet pallet, old me cringed lol, but I do that now too, especially if the paint has a hint of junkiness to it on the pallet (its drying up, too much powder pigment and not enough medium) or too get a milky thinness for layering.. great job all in all!
Well, I don't know if my palette is broken or I'm not able to use it (probably the second XD), but just the water that goes from the palette to the color isn't enough to properly dilute the mix at the right consistency u_u
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures that looked crazy thin to me! but im sure you know that medium is better than water since it will evenly thin rather than randomly.. but you do you man! and looks like your doing it super right!
@@nerfherder2915 definitely you are right: it's a matter of "personal vibes" XD I'm quite jealous of many other painters, some of them are able to blend the colors using thick paints and with a style that indeed is more "artistic" than mine (think for example to Giraldes!), but I confess that I'm not that able, and I think of not having a big "artistic eye". I started and learned as a self-taught many years ago, and I realized that it's crucial, for me, to always be aware of what is happening on the miniature I'm painting: for this reason, I "mastered" this kind of extreme-heavy-metal-style (kind of XD) based on many and many highly diluted glazes. It's not the funniest or most artistic way to paint figures, but it works for me! Using thin glazes I'm able to manage and control every single step of my painting process u_u
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures i love! ive seen your minis too.. great stuff.. i believe most real/ cant change if they had to artists dabble in more than out "outlet". keep em coming and i hope more gamers discover your product! The new AoS cities of sigmar army should energize well with your product!
@@nerfherder2915 You're right, totally right u_u the easiest part of making good miniatures is..making good miniatures XD all the crucial marketing/business part is the real mountain to climb to claim success!! I have to improve a lot, in this side ^^"
This was mesmerizing to watch, thank you! might be an insane thing to say, but I believe that the 'Eavy Metal guys cant compete with this level of detail
I really appreciate, but ‘Eavy metal painters are way better than what you see in their works for GW box arts u,u Latham and Tomazevsky (I hope I’ve spelled decently) for example, are real beasts! But I save your comment for future “need good vibes” moments xD
Awesome! Just what I wished for in my comment in your last video! Keep up with quality of the videos! And the figures are amazing, I must buy some now!
Thank you!! I'm quite proud of this range, I wished to create my own Dwarf range since the very first time I fell in love with this hobby (because of Dwarves, obviously! XD)
Got my fantastic dwarves in the mailbox today! Thanks!! Can't wait to start painting! Im quite scared though, because the sculpts are so nice, i want to paint them perferct!
Oh great!! Well, actually the videotutorials are pause because my film-maker (and girlfriend XD) has moved to Canada for 45 days to work as a VFX compositor on a Hollywood movie, so please be patient: soon we will upload more tutorials, so you can paint your brand new dwarves with a guide :D
Really nice Video! Keep up the good Work :) I'm looking forward to painting beards and hair. ;) I really like your format with the splitscreen! more too see in shorter videos. :) Perfect idea!
Thanks! I'm glad that you like this format, I wanted something able to explain as much as possible my painting process, without making 2-3 hours videos .__.
Thanks! I use subtle green glazes all over the skin, it's just a very subtle filter, almost invisible but it is helpful to give a very nice tone. Orange hues are painted principally on the temples :)
Thank you!! I paint the green filter to give a first, uniform saturation to the desaturated skin tones of my palette u_u looking at the traditional artists, I noticed that some of them paint the human skin starting with a bright green basecoat (then they darken it adding reds/purples for warm shadows and only after they paint above this base with "normal" skin tones). I tried to bring this technique in my painting process, I honestly don't know the physical theory behind it, but I tried once to give a subtle bright green glaze to a desaturated skin tone and I immediately realized how interesting this subtle filter works! It saturates the greyish/pale skin tones that I love to use and makes them richer. Obviously, this green filter doesn't work alone: as you've seen in the video, I added also orange glazes (insisting on the temples/middle-side of the face) and reds (on the wrinkles, cheeks and, obviously, the big potato nose!). In this way, I am able to start focusing only on shadow-light contrast, using Beige-Tallarn-Bugman's Glow mix, and once I'm happy about this first contrast, I give to the skin a more interesting and "alive" look using this subtle filters, that are easy to paint and above all easy for me to control exactly where they have effect on!
Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures best answer-explanation I’ve ever got. Thank you very much!! I’ve been browsing and looks like the technique (or the color itself... not sure at this ponit) is called Verdaccio. Anyway thanks again, I’ll follow your steps and give it a good try!
@@paperdemon42 Uh, cool!! Verdaccio is surely a trivial Italian word (probably a Tuscany ancient "slang"), because in my language it litterally means "rough/bad green" ^^
PS: after some philological researches (XD), my theory about this name is correct (or at least I believe): as I've just learned, renaissance painters used this kind of green obtained by a mix of yellow, black and white, so not a rich and "glorious" green made with a pure pigment, but a brownish/greyish "humble" green. So here is explained the name, Verdaccio (Verde= green and -accio is used in Italian to give a derogatory connotation to a term, so literally "bad green" or just "poor green") u_u
Tallarn Flesh was one of the best skin tone ever produced by GW, for the (in my opinion amazing) Citadel Foundation color range :) unfortunately, it is out of production, for this reason I put some alternative colors at the end of the video,so if you haven't this product, you can find a similar one :)
@@zenkinet1 exactly! Luckily I managed to buy a little stock of Deheneb Stone and Tallarn Flesh and I keep them as a national treasure XDXD I really don't know how I will make it when I'll finish them! XD
@@zenkinet1 I've searched almost anywhere a color like deheneb, and even if there are several that match the hue, the consistency and above all coverage of deheneb is still unmatched u__u I don't know why GW decided to dismiss one of its best color range ever made! The funny thing is that, at that time, "pro" painters considered citadel foundation range useless for "pro painting" purposes because they think that those colors were too thick and pigmented. After almost 15 years, the new trend in "pro painting" is using thick, highly pigmented colors XDXD
No words! You are a genius 🧞♂️
Just discovered this and big surprize there are tips added along the processwhich is a big 👍
Thank you!
Wonderful tutorial ! thank you !🤩
You are an solit masterclass Painter
Thanks! With Dwarves everything is better :D
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Your Channel is great
Again TOP NOTCH thank you
Thank you too for watching, Philippe! :D
espectacular!!
Thank you!
Mitico Durgin. Bellissimo video.mi piacciono molto l'inquadratura multiple, i tips, la.durata (2 ore dj incarnari come in alcuni video non si affrontano) ed anche la tabelle dei colori alternativi.
Unica cosa che aggiungerei sono magari dei punti dove spieghi 'perchè'. Per sempre perché il glaze verde? Perché il giallo?
Comunque Ottimo video che riguarderò stasera con più calma.per gustarmelo meglio.
Grazie mille!!!
Ciao Mirko, grazie per il feed! Per quello che riguarda il verde, ti dirò, è una cosa che faccio ultimamente per riportare un po' di saturazione all'incarnato in maniera leggera ma "consistente". Tutto è partito dal vedere come in molti ritratti umani che ho visto fare a diversi illustratori "classici", l'incarnato umano partiva da una base di verde acido, che ombreggiavano aggiungendo toni di rosso e solo dopo andavano a "filtrare" con i toni color carne veri e propri. Del verde iniziale, a fine lavoro, praticamente non rimaneva nulla di visibile, ma contribuiva ad arricchire i toni dell'incarnato (o almeno, così immagino: ci sarà un motivo se partivano proprio con quel colore XDXD). Ho pensato così di provare a "bastardizzare" questo metodo e di portarlo nella mia pittura, e ho visto che in effetti una velatura quasi impercettibile di verde acido (in questo caso Scorpion Green) riesce a dare un filtro all'incarnato in maniera davvero interessante!
Excellent tutorial. The video is very good. Out of curiosity, what material do you use to film?
Thank you Thomas!! Actually, two years ago I made a kind of crazy shopping day and I bought a Sony FDR-AX100E (it was almost 40% off on amazon XD). It's an impressive cam, even if I think that we still have many things to learn about it!
Thank you for your reply. I can't wait to see more. Your dwarves are really sublime. I have them at home since the Kickstarter :)
@@tomahawkstudios1431 Thank you Thomas! We are working on the third part, editing the beard tutorial ^^ I want to give you a full step by step tutorial about this character! Then, I think I will focus my next video on some more complex subject (a diorama) ^^ Thank you for having supported our Kickstarter, you helped me to create my own range of Dwarves
You are an artist of sculpting of painting . you are in my top 3 of minis artist . i m so sad to have missed your last ks
Oh thanks Guillaume
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures thanks.
great production! When I saw you add water to the paint on the wet pallet, old me cringed lol, but I do that now too, especially if the paint has a hint of junkiness to it on the pallet (its drying up, too much powder pigment and not enough medium) or too get a milky thinness for layering.. great job all in all!
Well, I don't know if my palette is broken or I'm not able to use it (probably the second XD), but just the water that goes from the palette to the color isn't enough to properly dilute the mix at the right consistency u_u
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures that looked crazy thin to me! but im sure you know that medium is better than water since it will evenly thin rather than randomly.. but you do you man! and looks like your doing it super right!
@@nerfherder2915 definitely you are right: it's a matter of "personal vibes" XD I'm quite jealous of many other painters, some of them are able to blend the colors using thick paints and with a style that indeed is more "artistic" than mine (think for example to Giraldes!), but I confess that I'm not that able, and I think of not having a big "artistic eye". I started and learned as a self-taught many years ago, and I realized that it's crucial, for me, to always be aware of what is happening on the miniature I'm painting: for this reason, I "mastered" this kind of extreme-heavy-metal-style (kind of XD) based on many and many highly diluted glazes. It's not the funniest or most artistic way to paint figures, but it works for me! Using thin glazes I'm able to manage and control every single step of my painting process u_u
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures i love! ive seen your minis too.. great stuff.. i believe most real/ cant change if they had to artists dabble in more than out "outlet". keep em coming and i hope more gamers discover your product! The new AoS cities of sigmar army should energize well with your product!
@@nerfherder2915 You're right, totally right u_u the easiest part of making good miniatures is..making good miniatures XD all the crucial marketing/business part is the real mountain to climb to claim success!! I have to improve a lot, in this side ^^"
This was mesmerizing to watch, thank you! might be an insane thing to say, but I believe that the 'Eavy Metal guys cant compete with this level of detail
I really appreciate, but ‘Eavy metal painters are way better than what you see in their works for GW box arts u,u Latham and Tomazevsky (I hope I’ve spelled decently) for example, are real beasts! But I save your comment for future “need good vibes” moments xD
Awesome! Just what I wished for in my comment in your last video! Keep up with quality of the videos! And the figures are amazing, I must buy some now!
Thank you!! I'm quite proud of this range, I wished to create my own Dwarf range since the very first time I fell in love with this hobby (because of Dwarves, obviously! XD)
Got my fantastic dwarves in the mailbox today! Thanks!! Can't wait to start painting! Im quite scared though, because the sculpts are so nice, i want to paint them perferct!
Oh great!! Well, actually the videotutorials are pause because my film-maker (and girlfriend XD) has moved to Canada for 45 days to work as a VFX compositor on a Hollywood movie, so please be patient: soon we will upload more tutorials, so you can paint your brand new dwarves with a guide :D
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures nice to hear!! Cant wait =D will focus om skin for now then :))
Really nice Video! Keep up the good Work :) I'm looking forward to painting beards and hair. ;) I really like your format with the splitscreen! more too see in shorter videos. :) Perfect idea!
Thanks! I'm glad that you like this format, I wanted something able to explain as much as possible my painting process, without making 2-3 hours videos .__.
Love the videos. Especially the multiple views.
Question. How do you choose where to place the green and orange glazes?
Thanks! I use subtle green glazes all over the skin, it's just a very subtle filter, almost invisible but it is helpful to give a very nice tone. Orange hues are painted principally on the temples :)
Love your vídeos!! 😍 why did you apply a green filter? I would really like to understand that magic
Thank you!! I paint the green filter to give a first, uniform saturation to the desaturated skin tones of my palette u_u looking at the traditional artists, I noticed that some of them paint the human skin starting with a bright green basecoat (then they darken it adding reds/purples for warm shadows and only after they paint above this base with "normal" skin tones). I tried to bring this technique in my painting process, I honestly don't know the physical theory behind it, but I tried once to give a subtle bright green glaze to a desaturated skin tone and I immediately realized how interesting this subtle filter works! It saturates the greyish/pale skin tones that I love to use and makes them richer. Obviously, this green filter doesn't work alone: as you've seen in the video, I added also orange glazes (insisting on the temples/middle-side of the face) and reds (on the wrinkles, cheeks and, obviously, the big potato nose!). In this way, I am able to start focusing only on shadow-light contrast, using Beige-Tallarn-Bugman's Glow mix, and once I'm happy about this first contrast, I give to the skin a more interesting and "alive" look using this subtle filters, that are easy to paint and above all easy for me to control exactly where they have effect on!
Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures best answer-explanation I’ve ever got. Thank you very much!! I’ve been browsing and looks like the technique (or the color itself... not sure at this ponit) is called Verdaccio. Anyway thanks again, I’ll follow your steps and give it a good try!
@@paperdemon42 Uh, cool!! Verdaccio is surely a trivial Italian word (probably a Tuscany ancient "slang"), because in my language it litterally means "rough/bad green" ^^
PS: after some philological researches (XD), my theory about this name is correct (or at least I believe): as I've just learned, renaissance painters used this kind of green obtained by a mix of yellow, black and white, so not a rich and "glorious" green made with a pure pigment, but a brownish/greyish "humble" green. So here is explained the name, Verdaccio (Verde= green and -accio is used in Italian to give a derogatory connotation to a term, so literally "bad green" or just "poor green") u_u
where is the mini from?
it's one of our miniatures, the Hunter of Erdraz! You can see it (and many others) on www.durginpaintforge.com :)
Tallarn Flesh? That doesn't exist... Do you mean Tallarn Sand?
Tallarn Flesh was one of the best skin tone ever produced by GW, for the (in my opinion amazing) Citadel Foundation color range :) unfortunately, it is out of production, for this reason I put some alternative colors at the end of the video,so if you haven't this product, you can find a similar one :)
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Sad... I thought so, I personally miss dheneb stone
@@zenkinet1 exactly! Luckily I managed to buy a little stock of Deheneb Stone and Tallarn Flesh and I keep them as a national treasure XDXD I really don't know how I will make it when I'll finish them! XD
@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures I have one pot of dheneb stone left :(.
@@zenkinet1 I've searched almost anywhere a color like deheneb, and even if there are several that match the hue, the consistency and above all coverage of deheneb is still unmatched u__u I don't know why GW decided to dismiss one of its best color range ever made! The funny thing is that, at that time, "pro" painters considered citadel foundation range useless for "pro painting" purposes because they think that those colors were too thick and pigmented. After almost 15 years, the new trend in "pro painting" is using thick, highly pigmented colors XDXD