I Love How You dont Just run an Awesome Channel! Hand Tool 🔧 Rescue, You are Very Active in the Maker UA-cam Community as Well. You're Such an Amazing Person! Take care Bro.
@@HandToolRescue You're Very Welcome! I Love your Channel! Ive subscribed since like you had under 1000 subscribers heck, maybe under 300 lol i cant remember, but definitely before 1000! Lol You've got a Restoring Gift! And im Sure as Hell Glad you Use it lol. Have a good one Buddy.
Always good to see old metal brought back to life. On the issue of the plugs being hard to hammer in, this is because of the pressure that builds up as you do so (not specifically air). You need an outlet for the pressure. Dowel is 'ridged' so that when you drive them in, the pressure has somewhere to go rather than split the wood (exits via the valleys on the dowel).
Jealous for sure. What I'm most jealous of is the time he has to do all of this. I suspect he has been very successful in business and now enjoys the time to "play" and the means to supply his addiction. :) thanks for sharing your knowledge and being an inspiration.
Such a clever man! Great video as always. If you still aren’t happy with the friction I am sure you could simply apply a very thin sheet of steel to the tops of the tables as all the hard work has been done.
A CNC router really is an amazing tool, I was thinking about how difficult this job would be to do to this standard without one. Great to see that old machine getting a new lease of life, always like your videos.
It always makes me smile when you show making the plans. All that background typing. I just imagine you sitting there randomly typing to make the sound. Sorry, small things amuse small minds! 😃
I really enjoyed watching you take an unusable machine and making it a valuable addition to the shop. You have some real talent with that CNC machine. Thanks for sharing.
What an awesome, old drum sander! That thing is a beast. Very nice work in the table, too. The glulam is a great way to go. Especially if you have a nice chunk laying around. Can't wait to see the belt guard you come up with. Good day, sir.
I definitely respect your woodworking skill......even more so (if that's possible) for the mention of the safety tip of tucking in your shirt and getting a guard for the belts! Great build as usual Frank!
I have to check that bell because I have not seen one of your videos since you moved into the shop. I am so very impressed with your video skills and also the way your shop has matured. It is definitely a nice place to work.
Nice job Frank, a daunting task! I remember at school the woodwork teacher telling us to put a small saw cut down the length of any dowels used to allow air and excess glue out. A fine hole through the centre of the plugs may have worked? Another point, when cutting the plugs. When they weren't completely cut through, if you'd put the board on edge and fed it through the bandsaw the plugs would have separated and dropped out, instead of cutting each one individually. I'm sure you'll come across this circumstance again so worth trying. I do that when cutting a lot of plugs for hiding screws.
With having ADHD, I find that it becomes hard to focus on a video for a period of time. I just close it and move one. But your videos always keep my attention. You always talk and there's rarely any pauses. It keeps me focused and I can watch it through 'till the end. The video is great so far (haven't finished) and you are very good at what you do! Thanks for the content!
I like that you talk about the dangers some of the tools have. I recently accedantaly cut my fingers on a table mounted router without converting or fence. Hope to learn more safety tips from you.
Two thoughts. 1. For releasing the round plugs, instead of cutting around each plug, take a strip of the plugs and turn it on edge and run it through the bandsaw to release all the plugs with one cut. 2. I would have avoided using the poly on the table and, instead, gone with straight johnson paste wax. I find this makes wood surfaces very slick. Maybe the wax didn't adhere well to the poly?
I just aquired a Frank Clement No. 1 Table Saw, and I just can't imagine how, if those tables are as heavy as mine, that they could bend like that. The saw is 120 years old and dead flat. Heavy as frig.
Remember to tension your belts, Frank! They look a little loose there. I would recommend a Belt Tension Gauge. You can find the tension ratio by dividing the center distance (the center of each sheave) by 64. Then sit the straight edge on top of both pulleys and lightly press down on the center of the belts with the gauge. I couldnt tell if your motor has a tensioning bolt on it, but you could fabricate one to where your motor will be pushed on a pivot. Tensioning is important for belt and sheave longevity and overall smoothness, dont want them always popping off!
I'm glad that I found your channel. I usually get used equipment and restore or modify it. The first new items came recently. A band saw and thickness planer. I think that it is because of my old hat was in Electronics. You have a nice shop and an interesting way of doing things and explaining the WHY of your process. Nice mods.
Interesting to see how this holds up. Probably fine for the bowl sanding you want to do. In the future, you don't need to use a puller on those taper lock pulleys. They are made to use the clamping screws as jack screws in the other set of holes to push them apart. Then they will slide off by hand. For sure shorten that shaft and build a belt guard. I guess that will be video part 3.
You should use behlens wool lube with steel wool in between coats and you can get a much smoother surface. I also recommend General Finishes, they have some finishes that are better than just poly! 👍
5:50 With your Plugs, you indeed trap air under them. If you are willing to have a less clean edge, add a really small hole on the edge, or file a tiny notch. That *should* help
Thanks for the CNC video Frank! The wood tables are a great touch to the sander. Just a tip as a new Fusion 360 and CAM user, I noticed you had longer then needed linking movements. To seed up machine time try to play with the Retraction Policy, and Stay-Down Height, under the Linking Tab.
I absolutely love your videos. All of them. They’re incredible and your attention to detail is in a league all its own. The only thing thing I can’t stand is the repeating typing sound when you show your CAD designs. Other than that, bravo! Excellent work.
Big fan of your videos... However... I would have tried to get the original tables straitened out... Because after watching the video...It occurred to me when you were aligning the table tops, and test sanding the bowl, it is has to work like a jointer top, so what ever the "cut" is on the sanding drum the other table has to be that much higher. Not at an even height with each other like you have them now. I repair old equipment (smaller stuff) to use in my shop or to resell and have learned how to mig weld cast iron. The trick is to slowly heat it up first, then after welding it, you have to wrap it in a thermal blanket or dry sand so it cools down slowly otherwise you are taking a chance it will crack. First I would test the top to see what kind of iron / steel you have to work with so you can figure out what you need to do to fix it, if it is workable iron, I would make steel clamping fixture or you could use a perfectly flat concrete slab to clamp the table flat all the way around so it doesn't warp, add extra clamps where the bend is, heat it up slowly where the bend is, clamp it and then slowly let it cool back down. Make sure the fixture is heated but not to red hot (in case of a steel fixture) otherwise it may warp, because when you set the top on the fixture / slab you don't want the thermal shock from the fixture cooling the top down too fast. Or maybe collaborate with one of the metalworkers on you tube and let them fix it... Like Samurai Carpenter and Alec Steele did one where they made stuff for each other. ua-cam.com/video/xPfPdNPSemw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/hFBaepjGYoI/v-deo.html Abom79 fixes a lot of big machines he might be a good fit... ua-cam.com/users/Abom79 Or I know some machine shops have spray welding and power spray torches to fix crankshafts and other round and flat parts. Possibly you could have them spray weld or power spray torch the whole top and then machine it down flat... or they could cnc weld the whole top and underside where the bend is and then resurface both sides so the top looks all the same color. You could resurface the tables on your cnc but risk the chance of getting cutting oil all over... which would stain your beds and maybe your other wood projects. Or I have seen where they use compressed air to cool the cutter bit and run super slow cutting / feed speeds so the bit doesn't over heat. But you need a compressor that can deliver air needed for that long. Or make a form and use liquid epoxy over the whole top so it is one color and re-machine the surface down. www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/metal-rebuilding-material/loctite_ea_3478.html
I think the wood grain in the other direction would have saved you from the chip out on the cnc. But I am not sure about such thin endgrain either. So you might have pros and cons in both directions. But more generally asking: why not buy two sheets of steel or aluminum, get a thick flat mdf and glue the sheets on at once with some construction adhesive. Leaving it clamped with the one big piece of mdf on top over night. So the two sheets should be parallel. The next day adjust the drum to the new hight and you are done. But from a subscribers point of view I am really happy to have a longer woodworking video :) Love your videos :)
Mr Frank, you might consider when you make your belt guard, mounting the motor on a hinged plate to keep constant tension on the belts. I like your wood tops better than the metal originals. Looks right.
To bad the original table is cast iron, pretty sure it will break if you try to press the dent out, even with heat. I bet that dent has a story. It is a nice old piece of machinery. You either want to cut the extension of the drum shaft off, as it will grab clothing in a horrible outcome. I have a neighbor that as a 13 year old, stepped over the PTO shaft of a farm tractor driving a grain elevator. It had the safety shield tube that failed to spin free of the shaft. It took her right leg to her hip, and left calf muscle. She was wearing a dress. Fear smooth rotating shafts.
I was actually sad he didn't try to fix them. Would have been harder to fix but the iron would have been vastly superior. Cast can be tricky but it is not as bad as people think. Just gotta approach it properly.
I wonder if it was this long, as originally it was powered from over head line shaft era, and had a wide flat pulley. I can see from your prior work, you will make use of this wide sander. I can't imaging the edit time you invest in your videos, but it does make them more interesting to watch, and hope you get the joy of the effort.
A secondary comment is on dust collecting. You can't ever get enough air flow at the end of the vacuum hoses. I purchased an overarm collector for my 14" saw. It is ineffective at keeping the dust from being shot out at me. The reduction is so little that I never use it. As well it is always in the way, and will result in loss of appendages. The only way to fix your router, and a overarm is to have the vacuum impeller right at the point of dust production. The piping causes excessive flow loss, and there really is no way around this other then mega size piping and mega horse power impeller. For the table saw, the most improvement is to install a live compressed air source (via a power on solenoid), and install a blowing jet under the table top perpendicular to the blade to clear the gullet so it does not have a chance to throw it out on its return to the surface. I like that you wear dust protection, as wood is an irritant to the lungs, which you are caring about.
A little more work on the CNC, and that would make a very nice pattern for some cast iron tables. A quick google search indicates that there are foundries in Oregon who work in cast iron.
It's always nice to have a new Frank video on a Sunday morning.
So glad you finally got back to this one. I think it looks great!
I Love How You dont Just run an Awesome Channel! Hand Tool 🔧 Rescue, You are Very Active in the Maker UA-cam Community as Well. You're Such an Amazing Person! Take care Bro.
Thank you very much!
@@HandToolRescue You're Very Welcome! I Love your Channel! Ive subscribed since like you had under 1000 subscribers heck, maybe under 300 lol i cant remember, but definitely before 1000! Lol You've got a Restoring Gift! And im Sure as Hell Glad you Use it lol. Have a good one Buddy.
Who the hell "thumbs down" a Frank Howarth video? Frank is like a Mr Rogers for adults :)
The thing I'm most jealous of is not all of Franks, tools or his skills, its his patience i wish i had.
He's unflappable!
Made a mistake, no worries, all good, I'll just fix it like this.
Well the thing I'm most jealous of is that Massive band saw!
If anything, his patience is a comforting reassurance.
Glad to see you rescue this old beast of a machine.
Always good to see old metal brought back to life.
On the issue of the plugs being hard to hammer in, this is because of the pressure that builds up as you do so (not specifically air). You need an outlet for the pressure. Dowel is 'ridged' so that when you drive them in, the pressure has somewhere to go rather than split the wood (exits via the valleys on the dowel).
Love the tech mix of using a CNC to make a wood table for a big old hunk o' iron drum sander. Thanks for another great video, Frank.
What a massive set of tools you have! Wow! Just wow!
Something very satisfying about making your own tools.
Jealous for sure. What I'm most jealous of is the time he has to do all of this. I suspect he has been very successful in business and now enjoys the time to "play" and the means to supply his addiction. :) thanks for sharing your knowledge and being an inspiration.
Frank glad to see yourself giving new life to old tools wish more people did
I love it every time I see you make something out of those old gluLams. These seem to be the sourcewood that keeps on giving!
Such a clever man!
Great video as always.
If you still aren’t happy with the friction I am sure you could simply apply a very thin sheet of steel to the tops of the tables as all the hard work has been done.
Thanks Frank. I alway's appreciate your sharing the thought process that goes into a project and your great editing. Have a great Sunday!
Best looking Surface Sander I have ever seen.
A CNC router really is an amazing tool, I was thinking about how difficult this job would be to do to this standard without one.
Great to see that old machine getting a new lease of life, always like your videos.
I love your videos about your tools the most. I just love the old and heavy American made equipment you have.
My wife and I have gotten in the habit of doing the "Frank laugh" after everything he says! We love Frank!
always entertaining Frank - that top is so pretty - you sure do love your old tools
It always makes me smile when you show making the plans. All that background typing. I just imagine you sitting there randomly typing to make the sound. Sorry, small things amuse small minds! 😃
I really enjoyed watching you take an unusable machine and making it a valuable addition to the shop. You have some real talent with that CNC machine. Thanks for sharing.
Happy you came back to give us another video of this project. I thought about it from time-to-time. I'm sure you had plans all along.
Really good to see you get that up and running
Wow!! What nice tools you have. That is a beautiful shop.
When you sand the sander you become the sander.
That's deep
Like the water in the Cup?
You become the sander sander.
I am the sander.... LOL
Great job, as always Frank.
You are one of my favorite content providers.
Thank you.
Great video as always! Your thorough narration is very explanatory and quite enjoyable.
I have watched a few of your videos, thank you but I think that is the first time I have seen that HUGE BANDSAW! My god I have bandsaw envy! 😀
What an awesome, old drum sander! That thing is a beast. Very nice work in the table, too. The glulam is a great way to go. Especially if you have a nice chunk laying around. Can't wait to see the belt guard you come up with. Good day, sir.
Perfection in woodworking and storytelling.
I definitely respect your woodworking skill......even more so (if that's possible) for the mention of the safety tip of tucking in your shirt and getting a guard for the belts! Great build as usual Frank!
I have to check that bell because I have not seen one of your videos since you moved into the shop. I am so very impressed with your video skills and also the way your shop has matured. It is definitely a nice place to work.
thanks as always for these videos Frank.
SWEET. It's like my old middle school woodshop and bleachers combined.👍🏼
Nice job Frank, a daunting task! I remember at school the woodwork teacher telling us to put a small saw cut down the length of any dowels used to allow air and excess glue out. A fine hole through the centre of the plugs may have worked? Another point, when cutting the plugs. When they weren't completely cut through, if you'd put the board on edge and fed it through the bandsaw the plugs would have separated and dropped out, instead of cutting each one individually. I'm sure you'll come across this circumstance again so worth trying. I do that when cutting a lot of plugs for hiding screws.
Damn, that's a monster band saw!
human + machine + creative make perfect. so great !
Now it looks same like a new Sander! Good Job.
wow That sander is a beast, I love it . The cnc router is amazing too. thanks for sharing
Very interesting Frank seems like a nice usable sander now. I to enjoy repairing and refreshing old woodworking machines.
With having ADHD, I find that it becomes hard to focus on a video for a period of time. I just close it and move one. But your videos always keep my attention. You always talk and there's rarely any pauses. It keeps me focused and I can watch it through 'till the end. The video is great so far (haven't finished) and you are very good at what you do! Thanks for the content!
Functional and beautiful! Very nice!
great refurbishment of a still useful old tool , too many have gone to scrap ,,,
This is the first video of yours that's come up in my feed for 6 months..
The CNC is so satisfying to watch. Great video.
Damn, you have BIG TOYS, I'm jealous. Those original tables could be straighten.
those overhead shots are great!
you just fixed my work week, Frank. Thanks.
I like that you talk about the dangers some of the tools have. I recently accedantaly cut my fingers on a table mounted router without converting or fence. Hope to learn more safety tips from you.
Two thoughts. 1. For releasing the round plugs, instead of cutting around each plug, take a strip of the plugs and turn it on edge and run it through the bandsaw to release all the plugs with one cut. 2. I would have avoided using the poly on the table and, instead, gone with straight johnson paste wax. I find this makes wood surfaces very slick. Maybe the wax didn't adhere well to the poly?
Use shellac for the top and paste wax, very slick. Also maybe a couple of link belts would quiet the drive.Thanks for the great video Frank.
I just aquired a Frank Clement No. 1 Table Saw, and I just can't imagine how, if those tables are as heavy as mine, that they could bend like that. The saw is 120 years old and dead flat. Heavy as frig.
That came out great Frank ! Should be a great addition to the shop
Remember to tension your belts, Frank! They look a little loose there. I would recommend a Belt Tension Gauge. You can find the tension ratio by dividing the center distance (the center of each sheave) by 64. Then sit the straight edge on top of both pulleys and lightly press down on the center of the belts with the gauge.
I couldnt tell if your motor has a tensioning bolt on it, but you could fabricate one to where your motor will be pushed on a pivot.
Tensioning is important for belt and sheave longevity and overall smoothness, dont want them always popping off!
What can one say, but simply FRANK.
I'm glad that I found your channel. I usually get used equipment and restore or modify it. The first new items came recently. A band saw and thickness planer.
I think that it is because of my old hat was in Electronics.
You have a nice shop and an interesting way of doing things and explaining the WHY of your process. Nice mods.
You could put a metal edge on the slabs nearest the sanding drum, it would be stronger. No grain issues.
Interesting to see how this holds up. Probably fine for the bowl sanding you want to do. In the future, you don't need to use a puller on those taper lock pulleys. They are made to use the clamping screws as jack screws in the other set of holes to push them apart. Then they will slide off by hand. For sure shorten that shaft and build a belt guard. I guess that will be video part 3.
i literally watched the first part to this and then this one came out. wooo!
Nice work Frank! 👍👊
Try your hand at making a bandsaw box. One that covers the belts.
Then take ideas for that extra-long shaft. Here's one: Horizontal spindle sander.
You should use behlens wool lube with steel wool in between coats and you can get a much smoother surface. I also recommend General Finishes, they have some finishes that are better than just poly! 👍
I love your narration
You could have sawed the plugs vertically with the bandsaw. I do that all the time to make plugs.
PS you're awesome
Looks great. One idea would be to glue some laminate to the top of the tables. Would be slicker.
Amazing work on this sander.
Time for a This Old Tony crossover. He could fab a sweet belt cover.
I didn't even realize that I hadn't been seeing your new videos in my feed .... Notification bell is now checked!
Great work @Frank
Haha finally! I remember years ago when you went to pick it up!
Another great video, keep it up frank.
What terrific narration of a terrific video!
fantastic work as usual, Mr. Howarth!
Looking forward to the video on making the belt cover & whatever other safety stuff you come with to keep your shirt out of the drum.
Great project. Well done
5:50
With your Plugs, you indeed trap air under them. If you are willing to have a less clean edge, add a really small hole on the edge, or file a tiny notch. That *should* help
Excellent work!
Good stuff Frank.
Cool, been waiting for this follow-up since the first vid about this great old sander..
Awesome drum sander. Greetings from Andreas on Off Grid Sweden 🇸🇪
Good job Frank as always you get it done ✅
Thanks for the CNC video Frank! The wood tables are a great touch to the sander. Just a tip as a new Fusion 360 and CAM user, I noticed you had longer then needed linking movements. To seed up machine time try to play with the Retraction Policy, and Stay-Down Height, under the Linking Tab.
Great way to restore an old tool
I absolutely love your videos. All of them. They’re incredible and your attention to detail is in a league all its own. The only thing thing I can’t stand is the repeating typing sound when you show your CAD designs. Other than that, bravo! Excellent work.
Yet another lovely video. Thank you very much.
Awesome work as always !!!
Big fan of your videos...
However... I would have tried to get the original tables straitened out...
Because after watching the video...It occurred to me when you were aligning the table tops, and test sanding the bowl, it is has to work like a jointer top, so what ever the "cut" is on the sanding drum the other table has to be that much higher. Not at an even height with each other like you have them now.
I repair old equipment (smaller stuff) to use in my shop or to resell and have learned how to mig weld cast iron. The trick is to slowly heat it up first, then after welding it, you have to wrap it in a thermal blanket or dry sand so it cools down slowly otherwise you are taking a chance it will crack.
First I would test the top to see what kind of iron / steel you have to work with so you can figure out what you need to do to fix it, if it is workable iron, I would make steel clamping fixture or you could use a perfectly flat concrete slab to clamp the table flat all the way around so it doesn't warp, add extra clamps where the bend is, heat it up slowly where the bend is, clamp it and then slowly let it cool back down. Make sure the fixture is heated but not to red hot (in case of a steel fixture) otherwise it may warp, because when you set the top on the fixture / slab you don't want the thermal shock from the fixture cooling the top down too fast.
Or maybe collaborate with one of the metalworkers on you tube and let them fix it... Like Samurai Carpenter and Alec Steele did one where they made stuff for each other.
ua-cam.com/video/xPfPdNPSemw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/hFBaepjGYoI/v-deo.html
Abom79 fixes a lot of big machines he might be a good fit... ua-cam.com/users/Abom79
Or I know some machine shops have spray welding and power spray torches to fix crankshafts and other round and flat parts. Possibly you could have them spray weld or power spray torch the whole top and then machine it down flat... or they could cnc weld the whole top and underside where the bend is and then resurface both sides so the top looks all the same color. You could resurface the tables on your cnc but risk the chance of getting cutting oil all over... which would stain your beds and maybe your other wood projects. Or I have seen where they use compressed air to cool the cutter bit and run super slow cutting / feed speeds so the bit doesn't over heat. But you need a compressor that can deliver air needed for that long.
Or make a form and use liquid epoxy over the whole top so it is one color and re-machine the surface down. www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/metal-rebuilding-material/loctite_ea_3478.html
I think the wood grain in the other direction would have saved you from the chip out on the cnc. But I am not sure about such thin endgrain either. So you might have pros and cons in both directions.
But more generally asking: why not buy two sheets of steel or aluminum, get a thick flat mdf and glue the sheets on at once with some construction adhesive. Leaving it clamped with the one big piece of mdf on top over night. So the two sheets should be parallel. The next day adjust the drum to the new hight and you are done.
But from a subscribers point of view I am really happy to have a longer woodworking video :)
Love your videos :)
Great video as always, maybe an idler/tensioner pulley for when you do the belts cover 👍🏼
Mr Frank, you might consider when you make your belt guard, mounting the motor on a hinged plate to keep constant tension on the belts. I like your wood tops better than the metal originals. Looks right.
Great! One thing, i am worried about the narrow, pointy part of the table, that may change shape by time. Perhaps a metal end could be added later on.
I smell a collab opportunity with Hand Tool Rescue
That's an awesome machine!
Great video sir! Looking around your shop, something seems out of place, er time; the CNC. Talk about integrating old and new!
To bad the original table is cast iron, pretty sure it will break if you try to press the dent out, even with heat. I bet that dent has a story. It is a nice old piece of machinery.
You either want to cut the extension of the drum shaft off, as it will grab clothing in a horrible outcome. I have a neighbor that as a 13 year old, stepped over the PTO shaft of a farm tractor driving a grain elevator. It had the safety shield tube that failed to spin free of the shaft. It took her right leg to her hip, and left calf muscle. She was wearing a dress. Fear smooth rotating shafts.
I was actually sad he didn't try to fix them. Would have been harder to fix but the iron would have been vastly superior. Cast can be tricky but it is not as bad as people think. Just gotta approach it properly.
I winced just reading that, poor girl
I really don't want to cut off that long shaft, but I think I will try to cover it.
I wonder if it was this long, as originally it was powered from over head line shaft era, and had a wide flat pulley.
I can see from your prior work, you will make use of this wide sander.
I can't imaging the edit time you invest in your videos, but it does make them more interesting to watch, and hope you get the joy of the effort.
A secondary comment is on dust collecting. You can't ever get enough air flow at the end of the vacuum hoses. I purchased an overarm collector for my 14" saw. It is ineffective at keeping the dust from being shot out at me. The reduction is so little that I never use it. As well it is always in the way, and will result in loss of appendages.
The only way to fix your router, and a overarm is to have the vacuum impeller right at the point of dust production. The piping causes excessive flow loss, and there really is no way around this other then mega size piping and mega horse power impeller. For the table saw, the most improvement is to install a live compressed air source (via a power on solenoid), and install a blowing jet under the table top perpendicular to the blade to clear the gullet so it does not have a chance to throw it out on its return to the surface.
I like that you wear dust protection, as wood is an irritant to the lungs, which you are caring about.
Nicely done!
Awesome mate.. thanks for sharing
Fantastic as usual Frank! Nice solution that I probably would never have thought about............... :)
A little more work on the CNC, and that would make a very nice pattern for some cast iron tables. A quick google search indicates that there are foundries in Oregon who work in cast iron.
If you didn't already have a massive disc sander you could put one on the end of the shaft there.
I like that.