While waiting for my new PTO clutch to arrive from Amazon I’ve been watching one video after another to try to see how they work. Even the videos about the exact same one as mine provide pretty much zero useful information. You however, have come through again. And yes, even though your clutch is not the same one at all. Now I understand the function and how the adjustment works. Thanks again!
Wow!!! Never once have I seen one of your vids with only 93 comments or only 55k views for that matter. You’re better now, but you were also dang good back when! Thanks!!!
Thanks for posting sir. I bought a used tiller that has a frozen PTO clutch that I attempted to unfreeze without dismantling it. With your tutorial, I have a good idea what to expect when I take it apart.. thanks again. Adios
We had a slip clutch on our bush hog. The bush hog connected to the power take off on the old Farmall H. That tractor was in destructible. It was 30 years old when my dad bought it.
Very thorough! Your new slip clutch center had nice new teeth to mesh with the spline, but we found the 6 and 7 series balers can really benefit from our updated design. It adds over an inch of steel to the slip clutch center, so it meshes completely with the spline- no need for a bushing as a spacer! Thanks for your video.
This is very helpful information--thank you! As some point, I need to replace all the springs in the JD 336 baler. This old baler has seen better days. Thanks again!
Lol, as a newer subscriber to this channel that started by watching your new videos first, your comment about no having any brake cleaner @7:50 made me laugh. Great videos, both new and old! They really help me in my own projects at home. Keep'em coming!!
What would you torque the nuts to? I purchased a used bush hog that has a slip clutch. It’s a “new at the time” assembly but it sat under a tree when the farmer went out of business and is all crusty and rusty. Never messed with one.
A little while back, I bought a PTO tiller with a slip clutch, and figured since it was brand new, it would work fine right away. It didn't. My tractor (a Kubota BX25) stalled when rocks got caught in the tines. Even a new clutch that's sitting in a warehouse somewhere can build up corrosion that prevents it from working properly. After I took it apart and sanded the discs, it worked like a charm. There's a quick test you can do to see whether you need to take the clutch apart after a period of disuse, provided you can access the friction discs from the outside. Take a normal lead pencil and draw a line across the discs. Put the implement on, engage the PTO for a few seconds, then take it off again. Find the lines you drew, and if they are still aligned, the clutch didn't slip, so it should be taken apart and sanded.
Just wondering if the damaged plate you cleaned up before putting the bolts back in ready to reassemble could have been reversed and used after removing the green paint? I'd also like to thank you for this video, it has been very helpful to me. Chilla, NSW, Australia.
As I've watched through your videos (I started at the beginning) I find myself wondering: 1. What did you do in the USAF? 2. What did you do prior, or possibly since, that has given you the knowledge and confidence to replace the slip clutch assembly on a hay baler? BTW, my dad was career AF. Thank you for your service!
I made it! I watched all of your videos! This one was the last. Woohoo! How do you know all this stuff? I mean you know all about engines obviously, farming, metal working, wood working, youtubing obviously again, batteries and electricity and many more, displaying a high level of ingenuity & resourcefulness. Have you studied any of it? Your whole work is...very impressive!
My brush hog has 4 metal plates and 4 friction disks. After twisting my PTO shaft like a pretzel I fugured out it was all rusted into 1 heap. 2 days in vinegar bath ate off all the rust. Light sand to knock down all the high spots from corrosion. 4 new kevlar disks and back in business. I was wondering about lubricating or some kind of rust preventative for the future.
The more I see of your videos. The more I like your style. Do you have a workshop tour video up somewhere? Would be very curious to see your complete setup!
Thanks for the video. My slip clutch seized up and bent my pto shaft. I guess one needs to check the thickness of these friction discs from time to time.
I just found your videos. You may want to find a small machine shop near you. I take cash jobs pretty often, I probably wouldve charged you like $20 cash to clean something like that up. As long as you dont pester them and don’t expect complicated work to be done quickly on the side, small machine shops are the way for guys like you to go IMO.
I flip the flat plate over and clean the paint off to have a new surface. I believe the the setting on the bolts to be from the washer to the mounting surface 1 21/32 +- 1/32.
2 things you might want to use/try next time - 1) use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean up the bolts and 2) a wire wheel type grinder or 3M scorch brand rotory disks to knock down more material on the plates, especially the one that went metal to metal.
Great question. I just set the tension on the slip clutch for my 535 baler. Per the manual on the 535 baler, it was 35 mm from end of spring oil to the other end. In other words, tighten each one of the bolts until the spring is compressed to the appropriate dimension for the 336 baler. Hope this helps
Mike, Sorry about that. Slip clutch torque settings vary by implement. For the hay baler, I will bale very thick hay and adjust the tension to avoid slippage, but not over tighten to the point that it won't slip if it picks up something that could damage the baler. While the baler has a technique for setting the torque, I prefer the field adjustment method that I've described. I hope this helps.
Green Baler Parts.com has a much improved slip clutch disc that eliminates the wobble inherent with these assemblies. The improved slip clutch disc has longer splines that eliminate the spacer between the disc and the gear housing. Much better than the John Deere replacement piece.
While waiting for my new PTO clutch to arrive from Amazon I’ve been watching one video after another to try to see how they work. Even the videos about the exact same one as mine provide pretty much zero useful information. You however, have come through again. And yes, even though your clutch is not the same one at all. Now I understand the function and how the adjustment works. Thanks again!
Glad I could help! You are welcome!
Wow!!! Never once have I seen one of your vids with only 93 comments or only 55k views for that matter. You’re better now, but you were also dang good back when! Thanks!!!
You are welcome!
I wish all videos could be like yours,straight to the point informative and no b/s,plus no silly music.
I own not one thing with a drive shaft, but I enjoyed watching this video fully.
Thank you!
PTO shaft lol
Thanks for posting sir. I bought a used tiller that has a frozen PTO clutch that I attempted to unfreeze without dismantling it. With your tutorial, I have a good idea what to expect when I take it apart.. thanks again. Adios
You are welcome!
We had a slip clutch on our bush hog. The bush hog connected to the power take off on the old Farmall H. That tractor was in destructible. It was 30 years old when my dad bought it.
Those are great tractors!
Very thorough! Your new slip clutch center had nice new teeth to mesh with the spline, but we found the 6 and 7 series balers can really benefit from our updated design. It adds over an inch of steel to the slip clutch center, so it meshes completely with the spline- no need for a bushing as a spacer! Thanks for your video.
This is very helpful information--thank you! As some point, I need to replace all the springs in the JD 336 baler. This old baler has seen better days. Thanks again!
Thanks for the informative video. I have a 336 bailer and now feel confident about servicing the pto clutch. Keep up the good work
Thank you!
Entertaining!Hats off to all you farm guys...salt of the Earth!
Thanks!
Lol, as a newer subscriber to this channel that started by watching your new videos first, your comment about no having any brake cleaner @7:50 made me laugh. Great videos, both new and old! They really help me in my own projects at home. Keep'em coming!!
Thank you!
What would you torque the nuts to? I purchased a used bush hog that has a slip clutch. It’s a “new at the time” assembly but it sat under a tree when the farmer went out of business and is all crusty and rusty. Never messed with one.
I have both slip clutch and sheer pin on my bush cutter I'm assuming if my sheer pin brakes the slip clutch isn't working .
A little while back, I bought a PTO tiller with a slip clutch, and figured since it was brand new, it would work fine right away. It didn't. My tractor (a Kubota BX25) stalled when rocks got caught in the tines. Even a new clutch that's sitting in a warehouse somewhere can build up corrosion that prevents it from working properly.
After I took it apart and sanded the discs, it worked like a charm.
There's a quick test you can do to see whether you need to take the clutch apart after a period of disuse, provided you can access the friction discs from the outside. Take a normal lead pencil and draw a line across the discs. Put the implement on, engage the PTO for a few seconds, then take it off again. Find the lines you drew, and if they are still aligned, the clutch didn't slip, so it should be taken apart and sanded.
Wow! Glad nothing broke on the Kubota or tiller. That's a great tractor.
The pool pump motor repair guy approved ! that was good info ..farm man
Your video is very useful thanks for sharing.
Only question please is how much pressure you put on the springs ?
Just wondering if the damaged plate you cleaned up before putting the bolts back in ready to reassemble could have been reversed and used after removing the green paint? I'd also like to thank you for this video, it has been very helpful to me. Chilla, NSW, Australia.
As I've watched through your videos (I started at the beginning) I find myself wondering: 1. What did you do in the USAF? 2. What did you do prior, or possibly since, that has given you the knowledge and confidence to replace the slip clutch assembly on a hay baler? BTW, my dad was career AF. Thank you for your service!
as always, great info taught in a clear manner.
Thanks!
I made it! I watched all of your videos! This one was the last. Woohoo! How do you know all this stuff? I mean you know all about engines obviously, farming, metal working, wood working, youtubing obviously again, batteries and electricity and many more, displaying a high level of ingenuity & resourcefulness.
Have you studied any of it? Your whole work is...very impressive!
Great to hear! Thanks!
My brush hog has 4 metal plates and 4 friction disks. After twisting my PTO shaft like a pretzel I fugured out it was all rusted into 1 heap. 2 days in vinegar bath ate off all the rust. Light sand to knock down all the high spots from corrosion. 4 new kevlar disks and back in business. I was wondering about lubricating or some kind of rust preventative for the future.
Great feedback. Thank you
Can you do this with out taking the entire assembly off the pto?
The more I see of your videos. The more I like your style. Do you have a workshop tour video up somewhere? Would be very curious to see your complete setup!
Thank you!
Outstanding video. Perfect learning video for new guy like me
Thank you very much
Thanks very much.I use an orbital sander with a worn paper to polish up.
Excellent! You are welcome!
Your videos have come a long way!!!! Wow like I didn't even pick up it was you till the end....I found your video after my googled video.
Wow, thank you!
In your opinion is the RK37 hydro enough tractor for a 6 ft king kutter tiller.
Thanks for the video. My slip clutch seized up and bent my pto shaft. I guess one needs to check the thickness of these friction discs from time to time.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
great explanation and demonstration on the operation of the slip clutch. Thanks
Thank you!
This was a neat video i learned something new.
Thanks for the positive comment!
Good information if you own anything with a slip clutch.
Thanks for sharing.
I just found your videos. You may want to find a small machine shop near you. I take cash jobs pretty often, I probably wouldve charged you like $20 cash to clean something like that up. As long as you dont pester them and don’t expect complicated work to be done quickly on the side, small machine shops are the way for guys like you to go IMO.
This is a great recommendation--thank you!
I would have tried using a honing stone to try and level out that rough plate. It would help to flatten it out to provide more contact surface.
My dad didn’t keep equipment in the barn except for the hay balers especially the square bailers because of the knotters and slip clutch.
Thanks for sharing.
I flip the flat plate over and clean the paint off to have a new surface. I believe the the setting on the bolts to be from the washer to the mounting surface 1 21/32 +- 1/32.
Thanks for commenting on this!
2 things you might want to use/try next time - 1) use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean up the bolts and 2) a wire wheel type grinder or 3M scorch brand rotory disks to knock down more material on the plates, especially the one that went metal to metal.
Thank you for these suggestions!
Excellent video, thank you
You are welcome!
Great video. If something does not work. Take it apart see what's wrong. If You Can? And fix it 👍
That's the plan! Thanks for watching.
Couldn’t u flip the ring looking piece around to have a decebt mating surface
I think so, but I'll have to take a close look to be sure. Thanks for commenting.
That's how farmers get things done right there. I would have done exactly the same.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks good job
You are welcome!
When you put the old clutch disk back in, I got a little sad.I hope you fixed that.
Thank you. Yes, I did purchase a replacement disk.
Great video. I just replaced the disks in my 336 baler yesterday. But, how do you set the torque on the clutch, when you put it back on the baler?
Great question. I just set the tension on the slip clutch for my 535 baler. Per the manual on the 535 baler, it was 35 mm from end of spring oil to the other end. In other words, tighten each one of the bolts until the spring is compressed to the appropriate dimension for the 336 baler. Hope this helps
pls do some 2-stroke engine videos
thank you this is a very helpful video thank you again
Hi Mevlan, glad the video was helpful.
I would use a block of wood to sand the surfaces though to keep them flat as possible.
Great recommendation! Thank you
Love this!
Thanks!
thanks
You're welcome!
Great video, but i think i prefer shear pins
Thank you!
Shear pins are a pain…. You can’t run over anything big
SUPER!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I suspect my slip cloth is out in in my baler.
What if u flip the back plate .. should be nice and strait and not all chewed up.. :)
Thank you for the feedback
You didn’t say how much to tighten the clutches
3 minutes would explain it all.
как пакажи выстовльть зажиганиё на прнсс
Probably coulda flipped the bad plate over and used the other side.
Thanks for the suggestion.
You didn't tell how much to torque
Mike, Sorry about that. Slip clutch torque settings vary by implement. For the hay baler, I will bale very thick hay and adjust the tension to avoid slippage, but not over tighten to the point that it won't slip if it picks up something that could damage the baler. While the baler has a technique for setting the torque, I prefer the field adjustment method that I've described. I hope this helps.
Not supposed to burn it in. Have fun destroying your clutch again.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm helped very much tho. Thank you for the video
Green Baler Parts.com has a much improved slip clutch disc that eliminates the wobble inherent with these assemblies. The improved slip clutch disc has longer splines that eliminate the spacer between the disc and the gear housing. Much better than the John Deere replacement piece.