Just look how fast the sanding went! hahahaha This was great and presents a much easier way for making a dovetail jig than I’ve seen elsewhere. thanks for putting out here for us newbies.
Great video. Love your humor. I recently made a template that looks just like this, but mine is two pieces of 3/8" poplar with a glued butt joint. So far it's holding up good.
Jesus, I was using a cheap aluminum tool for laying my dovetails and I was in search of a tool just like yours. It's impressive how you came up clutch with this video. Great job brother
Your channel is on fire. Keep up the great format and content. I like how your projects and easy to follow and specifically how you use inexpensive lumber and turn it into something cool and affordable.
Nice! Love using hand tools. Still trying to find a dovetail saw that hits the sweet spot between cost and quality. Like you, my “workshop” is a corner of our garage.
Made mine by milling a piece of aluminium angle. Accurate to 5 microns, and took less than 5 minutes. Simplest machining job going, and more durable than wood. Made a Shawn shim while I was at it...
Frank, I'm one of those guys who only use pull saws... But I wouldn't say that. I only use them because my shoulders won't let me use a push saw... It hurts a lot. 😕 Anyway, fantastic work! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I hate admitting this, not sure why, but I get much better dovetails with my $45 pull saw than I do with a very expensive western saw that I saved up to buy. I know it is for sure me as opposed to the saw, but I really love the pull saw.
@mikeandlucky Many times the issue with western saws is the sharpening or the setting... You know? While Japanese saws you never touch it and new blades are pretty cheap, so... I'd say it's less of a headache from this point. But I have issues with both my shoulders, really... So I can't use western saws either way. 😕
Just curious... how do you like that Woodriver block plane? I looked at one a few weeks ago and like the design of the cap. I was wondering if there was a lot of tuning to do and how the blade holds up.
I like it, after sharpening its good to go. the blade on that one has been good and I'm still using the stock blade, but I ended up replacing the blades of the other wood river planes bc they wouldn't hone very sharp, they'd get chippy right at the edge when it would get super fine. So not sure if I just got lucky with the blade on the block plane one or what.
Not sure, it certainly could. Flipping the orientation 90 will still have the same weakness so if/when it does I will probably make one with joinery connecting the two sections
Okay, I ask questions no one else does. I just saw one from Lee Valley, and it is same as yours. I have been pondering making one of these for a long time. I think there is one thing wrong with the design. To me, the piece that goes across the end grain should have the same angle as the tapered side. A straight up and down mark/line won't exactly match up.... Comments???
It's definitely not the only way and maybe not the strongest one. But dovetail joints are very tolerant to glue failures because in fact they are a mechanical lock of two wood pieces and glue is just an option not a necessity.
I hear you. These youtube tests methodology shows splined miters the stongest. in my experience dovetails or box/finger joints don't break when you drop them and miters do @@ВсеволодПан-к8л
"They would be wrong." Dovetails are a fine way to join timber at an angle, and it's great fun to have them go seamlessly together, but they certainly are not the only way or even the best under some circumstances. With that, I'm outta here. Bye!
Frank there’s several channels I like, but your channel I ENJOY. Keep it up man!
I appreciate that!
Just look how fast the sanding went! hahahaha This was great and presents a much easier way for making a dovetail jig than I’ve seen elsewhere. thanks for putting out here for us newbies.
Frank. Your videos make me very happy. Thank you.❤
Frank, I couldn't agree with you more about dove tail joints, good to see you went old school and made your jig! Thanks
Well, I know what my Saturday project is. Thanks, Frank.
I love my 21 year old truck and my old workbench, "not so nice that I never want to do anything with it" :). Thanks
Selling the saw till or earmarked for a friend? Looks sad and very there leaning on garage door. Love the videos.
I will check your channel later to see if you have a video on dovetails and how to use this jig. But, if you don't then please follow up with one?
Great video. Love your humor.
I recently made a template that looks just like this, but mine is two pieces of 3/8" poplar with a glued butt joint. So far it's holding up good.
awesome!
Jesus, I was using a cheap aluminum tool for laying my dovetails and I was in search of a tool just like yours. It's impressive how you came up clutch with this video.
Great job brother
thanks man!
I'm short on time, but I know comments help. You're good at this.
Thanks man!
Your channel is on fire. Keep up the great format and content. I like how your projects and easy to follow and specifically how you use inexpensive lumber and turn it into something cool and affordable.
Funny, I just made a few of these. Good to see you brother.
nice!
Nice! Love using hand tools. Still trying to find a dovetail saw that hits the sweet spot between cost and quality. Like you, my “workshop” is a corner of our garage.
Love it!
3/8 inch AKA as close as we can get to 1 cm with none metric 😂
Amazing work as always!
: )
hey new sub here. rex kruger said you needed a shout out. loving your vids!!
I always enjoy your videos and this is a nice tool project. Thanks for describing your rip and crosscut saws. Can you provide the manufacturer?
Thanks man those are both made by Thomas Flynn they sell 2 or three diff brands which are very similar
Slick. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Made mine by milling a piece of aluminium angle. Accurate to 5 microns, and took less than 5 minutes. Simplest machining job going, and more durable than wood. Made a Shawn shim while I was at it...
Sweet!
Frank, I'm one of those guys who only use pull saws... But I wouldn't say that. I only use them because my shoulders won't let me use a push saw... It hurts a lot. 😕
Anyway, fantastic work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I hate admitting this, not sure why, but I get much better dovetails with my $45 pull saw than I do with a very expensive western saw that I saved up to buy. I know it is for sure me as opposed to the saw, but I really love the pull saw.
@mikeandlucky Many times the issue with western saws is the sharpening or the setting... You know?
While Japanese saws you never touch it and new blades are pretty cheap, so... I'd say it's less of a headache from this point.
But I have issues with both my shoulders, really... So I can't use western saws either way. 😕
I hear you Mike! I have the same feeling and keep coming back my little gents saw
Just curious... how do you like that Woodriver block plane? I looked at one a few weeks ago and like the design of the cap. I was wondering if there was a lot of tuning to do and how the blade holds up.
I like it, after sharpening its good to go. the blade on that one has been good and I'm still using the stock blade, but I ended up replacing the blades of the other wood river planes bc they wouldn't hone very sharp, they'd get chippy right at the edge when it would get super fine. So not sure if I just got lucky with the blade on the block plane one or what.
@@FranksWorkbench Thanks a lot for the feedback! Love the videos 😀
Frank, I wonder how long that template will last? The grain direction you have chosen (cross grain) is weak and vulnerable to breaking off.
Not sure, it certainly could. Flipping the orientation 90 will still have the same weakness so if/when it does I will probably make one with joinery connecting the two sections
3/8" may be fine. Just as long as no one is tempted to make it thinner than this. Aluminium angle is good for these templates.
Nice
Very nice
Okay, I ask questions no one else does. I just saw one from Lee Valley, and it is same as yours. I have been pondering making one of these for a long time. I think there is one thing wrong with the design. To me, the piece that goes across the end grain should have the same angle as the tapered side. A straight up and down mark/line won't exactly match up.... Comments???
Would be better if you changed the grain direction through 90 degrees.😊
Is 3/8" thick enough to prevent the template from snapping in half along the wood grain?
I think so, but we will see!
Speaking of grain direction, why did you orient yours the way it is?
Never mind now I see why.
How come, a non dovetailed dovetail guide ? 😱
Nice gizmo anyway 👍
Haha maybe will sometime down the road depending on how this one holds up! I liked the beginner friendly, can-do simplicity of it!
The dovetail is the ONLY way ? when tested it is not the strongest
It's definitely not the only way and maybe not the strongest one. But dovetail joints are very tolerant to glue failures because in fact they are a mechanical lock of two wood pieces and glue is just an option not a necessity.
I hear you. These youtube tests methodology shows splined miters the stongest. in my experience dovetails or box/finger joints don't break when you drop them and miters do @@ВсеволодПан-к8л
"They would be wrong."
Dovetails are a fine way to join timber at an angle, and it's great fun to have them go seamlessly together, but they certainly are not the only way or even the best under some circumstances. With that, I'm outta here. Bye!
Lol I think you know I was just being purposely obnoxious.. but also dovetails are the only way to join two end grains to make a corner :)
@@FranksWorkbench -- You're right.
Nice