another great video, recently stripped and rebuilt the carb bank on my gs550, best advice I can give is if your cleaning or changing jets get a set of briggs and stratton jet screwdrivers, there cheap and readily available and their flat sides are a perfect fit instead of the slight taper most flat head drivers tips have. their jet brushes are also a great investment if this is something you do regularly
Copper slip is what we called it in 1980 when we used to slather it everywhere. You make a good point about copper washers etc. Thanks for clearing this up. (3.20 btw)
I put the jets on the nozzle of a brake cleaner spraycan and spray it a couple of times. Then I put 8 bar on it with my airgun. If needed I use a very small sewing needle. Has worked on all the carbs I did.
I'm not saying they can't be cleaned properly, just that alot of people stuggle and generally the reason is what I described in the video. It saves alot of fucking about if you just buy new, clean jets. Thanks for the comment as always - matt
I have to confess, I sent the twin mikuni carbs on my xv535 to someone who had a sonic cleaner, did a balance as well. Ended up selling them on ebay and replacing the twin under tank mikunis with a 2 into 1 manifold and single hitachi carb. Mounted on the side. More chopper like. Bike runs sweet on that set up. Would love to see a carb balancing vid mate - for my other two Hondas , but to be fair you probably haven't got the time LOL 😆
Its not just about the time, its having the set-up to show it properly. The ER5 carbs will need to be balanced, but I think its worth waiting until I have a 4 cylinder, then I can repeat the process 4 times and show how they effect each when you change the balance - matt
Look forward to it as always. Benefit of UA-cam makes it accessible to experts like you. I have learned a tonne of stuff from your channel. Probably the best site of this sort I've ever come across.
Hi great channel and thank you for that! Can you do video about jetting the carbs? I got K&N pod filters and wont to rejet carbs. Everyone said I need 2 numbers up but Cody from Motorcycle MD said he would go in one video that he go 15 up on main jet end 2 on idle jets then play with mixture screw. That would mean that I need to go from 135 to 150!? Do you think it’s ok?
Are you using fuel with alcohol/ethanol? If so, alcohol/ethanol is hygroscopic and can absorb 50 times more water than conventional non-alcohol gasoline. The white corrosion is most likely zinc oxide. Carbs bodies have a high zinc content. I hope this helps answer the question.
Thanks for the comment dude. Some years ago I used to build and tune methanol engines for drag bikes. We sometimes came across crystalization similar to this, mainly dude to methanols thirst for aluminium. As you stated, most carbs are cast from zamak which would explain the zinc oxide. As far a I know, the fuel that has been sat in these carbs was at least 7 years old. This puts around the time ethanol was added in larger volumes to petrol. This could be the source of the issue I saw. Maybe someone used IPA or methanol/ethanol to clean then and then gave up. Thanks for the comment - matt
Hey, I see you have heated carbs so I heard if I remove the lines I ll need new o ring seals. As I can see here at 0:36, you can do it without removing the heaters lines? btw I have ninja500r, similar carbs
Great video, but i would never recommend copperpaste on a Stainless bold in a aluminum body. Due to electrolyse they will cause problems in the future. Ceramic grease is a much better option due to its non conductive charter.
Part where you said put copper slip on steel screws in alloy surprised me. Was informed normal lithium type grease should be used. Due to electrolysis problems with copper , aluminium & steel combination. What do you think, have I been fed BS?. Thanks for another good video.
copper slip? This was a while ago, at what point in the video? Copper washers are used for oil lines all the time. That's ally head ---> copper washer ---> Steel bango ---> copper washer ---> steel bolt. BS mate lol
I recently bought a 03 ninja 500 with low miles, battery is new, the choker cable is moving, the guy said the carburetors were recently cleaned. Normally it should turn over even on cold weather. I keep cranking the bike until the battery dies with no luck and eventually I resort to jumping it with a car until it does run. The bike runs good once it does but when I leave it off for several hours it does it again, the choker doesn't seem to help much. Any suggestions?
So cold starting is the issue - check the hoses making sure you don't have an air leak somewhere leaning out the fuel - also check the vacuum lines to the carb.
Hi, great video... I've cleaned mine but with float level ok the mixture in cylinder 2 , is too much rich...fuel coming from somewhere I think.. Any advice?... thanks in advance.
Hello everybody! I have a problem with my er5. I found those two into one hose free. I mean it do not is inserted in nothing. it is normal? The engine is working but I don't know it is ok like this.
@@dirtygarageguy I think he's referring to the 2 hoses that connect into a T junction in the upper part of the carburetors. I myself have owned an ER5 for the past year and finally got to cleaning the damn thing. On mine, as far as I know the hose out of the T junction was routed on top of the air box but didn't really connect anywhere. Is it supposed to be like this? What are those for? Haven't managed to find anything online. Cheers.
"Is ultrasonic cleaner hydrogen embrittlement on aluminum BS?" lol yes totally, where's the free hydrogen coming from? The water? Because water just vents hydrogen all the time lol. Hydrogen embrittlement only occurs in Ally at high temperatures
LOL but it's not fucking magic - it's called CHEMISTRY. Therefore, please find me the chemical reaction between Ethanol and Aluminium. Here's a link to one www.chemguide.co.uk/organicprops/alcohols/dehydration.html Note it say 170degC. Ethanol doen't react with aluminium oxide or aluminium at 20degC. And you said it creates an oxide - with what?
another great video, recently stripped and rebuilt the carb bank on my gs550, best advice I can give is if your cleaning or changing jets get a set of briggs and stratton jet screwdrivers, there cheap and readily available and their flat sides are a perfect fit instead of the slight taper most flat head drivers tips have. their jet brushes are also a great investment if this is something you do regularly
Copper slip is what we called it in 1980 when we used to slather it everywhere. You make a good point about copper washers etc. Thanks for clearing this up. (3.20 btw)
lol you mean anti-seize
Nice and easy to follow
great video thanks for educating..
Thanks! Doing this now on Fz1.
I put the jets on the nozzle of a brake cleaner spraycan and spray it a couple of times. Then I put 8 bar on it with my airgun. If needed I use a very small sewing needle. Has worked on all the carbs I did.
I'm not saying they can't be cleaned properly, just that alot of people stuggle and generally the reason is what I described in the video. It saves alot of fucking about if you just buy new, clean jets. Thanks for the comment as always - matt
Good stuff. 👍
I have to confess, I sent the twin mikuni carbs on my xv535 to someone who had a sonic cleaner, did a balance as well. Ended up selling them on ebay and replacing the twin under tank mikunis with a 2 into 1 manifold and single hitachi carb.
Mounted on the side. More chopper like. Bike runs sweet on that set up. Would love to see a carb balancing vid mate - for my other two Hondas , but to be fair you probably haven't got the time LOL 😆
Its not just about the time, its having the set-up to show it properly. The ER5 carbs will need to be balanced, but I think its worth waiting until I have a 4 cylinder, then I can repeat the process 4 times and show how they effect each when you change the balance - matt
Look forward to it as always. Benefit of UA-cam makes it accessible to experts like you. I have learned a tonne of stuff from your channel. Probably the best site of this sort I've ever come across.
Hi great channel and thank you for that! Can you do video about jetting the carbs?
I got K&N pod filters and wont to rejet carbs. Everyone said I need 2 numbers up but Cody from Motorcycle MD said he would go in one video that he go 15 up on main jet end 2 on idle jets then play with mixture screw. That would mean that I need to go from 135 to 150!? Do you think it’s ok?
Those carbs are truly bad. Good video Matt
yeah I ended up buying some 2nd hand replacements due to the pitting - will make some good videos though - matt
Tengo una pregunta le puse el repuesto a los carburadores de una vulcan 500 y salio una bonita de acero y no se donde va esa canica o bonita
Are you using fuel with alcohol/ethanol? If so, alcohol/ethanol is hygroscopic and can absorb 50 times more water than conventional non-alcohol gasoline. The white corrosion is most likely zinc oxide. Carbs bodies have a high zinc content. I hope this helps answer the question.
Thanks for the comment dude. Some years ago I used to build and tune methanol engines for drag bikes. We sometimes came across crystalization similar to this, mainly dude to methanols thirst for aluminium. As you stated, most carbs are cast from zamak which would explain the zinc oxide. As far a I know, the fuel that has been sat in these carbs was at least 7 years old. This puts around the time ethanol was added in larger volumes to petrol. This could be the source of the issue I saw. Maybe someone used IPA or methanol/ethanol to clean then and then gave up. Thanks for the comment - matt
Hey, I see you have heated carbs so I heard if I remove the lines I ll need new o ring seals. As I can see here at 0:36, you can do it without removing the heaters lines? btw I have ninja500r, similar carbs
Great video, but i would never recommend copperpaste on a Stainless bold in a aluminum body.
Due to electrolyse they will cause problems in the future.
Ceramic grease is a much better option due to its non conductive charter.
Part where you said put copper slip on steel screws in alloy surprised me. Was informed normal lithium type grease should be used. Due to electrolysis problems with copper , aluminium & steel combination. What do you think, have I been fed BS?. Thanks for another good video.
copper slip? This was a while ago, at what point in the video?
Copper washers are used for oil lines all the time. That's ally head ---> copper washer ---> Steel bango ---> copper washer ---> steel bolt.
BS mate lol
I recently bought a 03 ninja 500 with low miles, battery is new, the choker cable is moving, the guy said the carburetors were recently cleaned. Normally it should turn over even on cold weather. I keep cranking the bike until the battery dies with no luck and eventually I resort to jumping it with a car until it does run. The bike runs good once it does but when I leave it off for several hours it does it again, the choker doesn't seem to help much. Any suggestions?
So cold starting is the issue - check the hoses making sure you don't have an air leak somewhere leaning out the fuel - also check the vacuum lines to the carb.
Even with the choke on, it seems to not do anything, I see the cable engaging though. I mean, you could be right though.
On a Vulcan 750 1986 is there 2 fuel lines and where if so where to put fuel lines
one is fuel the other is vaccum
Hi, great video... I've cleaned mine but with float level ok the mixture in cylinder 2 , is too much rich...fuel coming from somewhere I think.. Any advice?... thanks in advance.
Check the fuel tap, they die over time
@@dirtygarageguy many thanks for your time... I've found the issue in the secondary calibrated pass (enlarged for the bad man hand) LOL...
Hello everybody!
I have a problem with my er5. I found those two into one hose free. I mean it do not is inserted in nothing. it is normal? The engine is working but I don't know it is ok like this.
Which hoses?
@@dirtygarageguy I think he's referring to the 2 hoses that connect into a T junction in the upper part of the carburetors. I myself have owned an ER5 for the past year and finally got to cleaning the damn thing. On mine, as far as I know the hose out of the T junction was routed on top of the air box but didn't really connect anywhere. Is it supposed to be like this? What are those for?
Haven't managed to find anything online. Cheers.
That white stuff is I think someone tried putting a gasket maker material that was not fuel resistant and it got gummed up and leaked into the fuel.
I'm pretty sure that white stuff is the you call it gasoline stabilizer what's it called.. sea foam
It’s propably etanol. Gasoline cointain’s Etanol and over time the gasoline oxidise leaving the etanol behind as a white hard substanse.
What you just said you just made up. The white hard substance is aluminium hydroxide. Gasoline or iso-octane doesn't oxidize.
Is ultrasonic cleaner hydrogen embrittlement on aluminum BS? Its something a lot of ppl have told me but I never validated the rumors.
"Is ultrasonic cleaner hydrogen embrittlement on aluminum BS?"
lol yes totally, where's the free hydrogen coming from? The water? Because water just vents hydrogen all the time lol. Hydrogen embrittlement only occurs in Ally at high temperatures
Found this bike on the beach??? 😂😂😂
I just bought kwawasaki ex 500 and its ever floats
that white stuff is old gasoline
thats what cheap ethanol fuel does to Aluminium its just aluminium oxide
wrong
@@dirtygarageguy oh geez I dunno then I only clean carbies all the time.
LOL but it's not fucking magic - it's called CHEMISTRY.
Therefore, please find me the chemical reaction between Ethanol and Aluminium. Here's a link to one
www.chemguide.co.uk/organicprops/alcohols/dehydration.html
Note it say 170degC. Ethanol doen't react with aluminium oxide or aluminium at 20degC. And you said it creates an oxide - with what?