This video just got me out of a tight spot, thought it was going to cost me a small fortune, but it was the corrosion. Just changed the fuse holder for a new waterproof one. Thank you.
So glad it helped. Keeping the caravan very slightly nose down can help bkeep the water away, and keeping it very nose down during storage. I've now been looking at fridges as they are, too, a regular source of problem.
Great help thanks. We replaced the Thetford fuse holder with a water resistant fuse holder & used gel filled wire connectors, works by a treat and should help with the corrosion issues.
Thank you so much. I did actually just have to clean the connection to the Pcb with a bit of emery. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without your really clear post. Thanks again.
Thanks! Just experienced the "no flush" and would have been struggling without watching your video. Problem wasn't the fuse holder, but the connector on the circuit board. Bit of emery and WD40 - all sorted.
So glad it helped - the corrosion is a never-ending battle, sadly, and also the condensation that forms on the circuit-board, but at least we are able to learn and fix. Enjoy the remaining season
Thanks Paul, my caravan is 2011 Elddis 304. Today, checked out my thetford toilet. Pressed my loo button, not working. So, having seen your video, I removed my toilet tank. My fuse is on an upright mount behind the tank. Fuse was corroded. Cleaned with emery, injected wi wd 40, bingo! Checked under button cover. Circuit board clean. Sprayed connections with wd40 as a precaution. I’ve noted all your prevention suggestions. Brilliant well presented. Many thanks!😅
Thanks you’re video was awesome, I replaced everything even the button board and it still didn’t work. I found the problem was lack of power to run the pump. Contact cleaner sprayed on the contacts between the toilet wiring loom to the wires from the caravan battery.
Very informative and our loo is now fixed new Pcb as old one was fried still didn’t work ? Changed the 3 amp fuse which was a little corroded for a new one still didn’t work Swapped for a 5 amp fuse and alls good 👍 Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge
Really pleased it helped - it is hard to believe how many people have had these issues - there should be a free update kit available by recall. Thanks for your message
Glad it helped... some fixes are easy, some regular, some frustrating... the Thetford seems to throw a host of frustrations towards the caravan owner. Have a great season
Thanks Paul, I've just bought a caravan & the toilet wasn't working. This gives me a good basis to start from. I think I'll be using a bit of WD40 on all of it.
Thanks Paul. Really helpful. Loved the replacement fuse holder and heatshrink and also the cct diagram. I think my pump is completely guncked up but will try the 12v direct trick to completely prove its the pump. Now to look at why my Thetford N112 3 way fridge doesn't turn on at all. Am hoping this is a 12v power problem too and not the control circuit....Best regards, Steve.
Glad it helped. Most fridge problems arise from the terrible rotary switch that selects gas/12v/240v - this connects with reed switches - the current through the rotary switch is almost zero - as the contacts frequently tarnish over winter it is common for early season problems to crop up - try rotating the switch quickly clockwise/anticlockwise all the way about 8-10 times - this should polish away any tarnishing and improve the connection..... may as well give it a go!
Thanks for the video having the same problem on my bailey caravan but now know what to do got all the bits now just to fit them as you say not cheap all the best🙂
No worries - hope you get it done. Before you begin make sure you (a) have all the tools and parts (b) your element can be pulled out of the tank without having to dismantle the whole seat! But it is relatively easy if you don't mind swapping between distance & reading glasses a thousand times!
Sorry to hear that - you may need to ask a friend who owns a multimeter to check where the power stops - it may be the supply wire is corroded before it gets to the harness. Hope this helps
That's where I had to change my plans. The original fuse holder became completely detached, however I was unable to solder the new fuse holder in as the caravan wiring is really cheap and doesn't take solder, so I had to use screw connectors. Try a WAGO, it is better
great vid computer board was shot, put in a fan light switch, a switch to flush and the light flashes when full 20 bucks better than 280 bucks and post cheers
The connector is a typical 6-way edge connector but the spacing is important. You may have problems soldering these wires on because they are steel wires not copper. You may be better off soldering copper wires onto the connector and then attaching stripped-back original wires further down... the original wires used have no resilience to corrosion. You should be able to solder quality copper to the side-connector, though you'll be best using hardware connectors to join the wires together.
I have the opposite problem on a c250 in a motorhome. When i press the flush button and release it the flush continues. Is it likely to be the circuit board at fault?
Yes, almost certainly a short circuit - try drying it all out and giving the circuit-board a gentle rub-over with an old toothbrush as it may have salts across the tracks. We had exactly the same thing.... came back one evening to find the entire flush had emptied itself into the loo. As the switch is part of the circuit board I would be surprised if it were anywhere else. Drying and cleaning are a good first step, but the circuit-boards are fabulously poor quality for an eye-watering price...
@@pcollingridge thanks for the advice. I have already disconnected and removed the housing as it was the only way to stop the flow. I will let you know how i get on.
Solved! Cleaned as you suggested but still noticed some debris between 2 of the circuit tracks. Scrapped away the debris between the tracks with a stanley blade, refitted and all now working ok. Thanks for the video
Great news - I just wonder why it all has to be via a circuit-board when a press-to-make switch would do a perfect job! Happy camping, Thanks for viewing!
@@pcollingridge Your almost right, just need a bit of extra cunning to incorporate the level sensor to stop the cassette from overflowing when full, a simple relay (maybe with a diode across the coil) could be used to achieve this. Then taking it a step further its also a simple matter to also incorporate a remotely fitted 'timer module' for a extractor fan
Hi Mark, in the C250 it is via the external door. The pump it inserted from below - there's usually a couple of big blue tabs to squeeze just behind the flush-drain (pull the cassette out to give you more room to move). It's a bit of a job getting it in & out as the hoses get stiff over time so may need replacing. The later model C260 uses a submersible pump which is much easier to manage
Thank you - I have still had issues with corrosion within the system and fully understand why the c260 was modified to reduce these. All the same, I think they should offer an upgraded wiring/board kit to rectify existing installations. Thanks for your kind comments.
Thanks for a great tutorial. Unfortunately after replacing all parts I still didn't have any success so I've bought a new wiring loom and pump. Is this something you have fitted?
Try contact cleaner on the contact between the wiring loom and the wires from the battery. I replaced everything and found it still didn’t work until I sprayed that contact. Good luck
The reed switch is simply a switch that turns on when a magnet is near; your toilet tank has a magnetic float that rises up and allows a current to flow through the LED. I imagine the problem is more likely to be a short circuit caused by corrosion of the bottom of the big circuit board. You may be able to test if there's a short circuit by gently disconnecting the reed switch board.... the indicator should go off if the reed switch is a problem or stay on if the main circuit board has a short.. You could also test the operation of the reed switch by removing the little green circuit board from the back/far-end of the loo tunnel then clip a circuit-tester across the two terminals on the little green board - you should notice a difference if a magnet goes near the red reed switch (the actual reed switch is a pinky-red and the size of half a matchstick). The most common other fault is that the magnet in the tank falls off and gets tipped out with all the poo
@@pcollingridge I have looked in the cassette tunnel and my fuse holder is slightly higher up than the one in the video. The pump did stop working and when I replaced the fuse with a new one, it started working again. The old fuse showed some corrosion. The whole of the fuse holder and reed switch unit clips out, so I will check that for corrosion too.
I had an old 12v battery and used a bit of flex with croc-clips..... BUT DO put a fuse in-line if using any car or leisure battery or you will instantaneously create a fire if it accidentally shorts, even for a second.... best to use 8x AA batteries wired in series or run a wire from the 12v TV socket
This video just got me out of a tight spot, thought it was going to cost me a small fortune, but it was the corrosion. Just changed the fuse holder for a new waterproof one.
Thank you.
So glad it helped. Keeping the caravan very slightly nose down can help bkeep the water away, and keeping it very nose down during storage. I've now been looking at fridges as they are, too, a regular source of problem.
Great explanation, my toilet wasn’t flushing and yes, the wires had broken off the fuse holder. 👍
Great help thanks. We replaced the Thetford fuse holder with a water resistant fuse holder & used gel filled wire connectors, works by a treat and should help with the corrosion issues.
Glad it helped
Thank you again I have my son watching this so he can repair my flush
Thanks - it is a simple circuit but poorly designed - if I'd had the nerve I would have rewired it from scratch properly! All the best
Thank you so much. I did actually just have to clean the connection to the Pcb with a bit of emery. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without your really clear post. Thanks again.
Glad it helped - I hope it remains functional for the season ahead.... and, ideally, beyond. Enjoy your camping
Thanks! Just experienced the "no flush" and would have been struggling without watching your video. Problem wasn't the fuse holder, but the connector on the circuit board. Bit of emery and WD40 - all sorted.
So glad it helped - the corrosion is a never-ending battle, sadly, and also the condensation that forms on the circuit-board, but at least we are able to learn and fix. Enjoy the remaining season
Thanks Paul, my caravan is 2011 Elddis 304. Today, checked out my thetford toilet. Pressed my loo button, not working. So, having seen your video, I removed my toilet tank. My fuse is on an upright mount behind the tank. Fuse was corroded. Cleaned with emery, injected wi wd 40, bingo! Checked under button cover. Circuit board clean. Sprayed connections with wd40 as a precaution. I’ve noted all your prevention suggestions. Brilliant well presented. Many thanks!😅
Glad it helped - the corrosion is a serious issue - I think cheap imported fuses also corrode easily. Thanks for watching
Thanks you’re video was awesome, I replaced everything even the button board and it still didn’t work.
I found the problem was lack of power to run the pump.
Contact cleaner sprayed on the contacts between the toilet wiring loom to the wires from the caravan battery.
Glad it helped
Very informative and our loo is now fixed new Pcb as old one was fried still didn’t work ?
Changed the 3 amp fuse which was a little corroded for a new one still didn’t work
Swapped for a 5 amp fuse and alls good 👍
Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge
Really pleased it helped - it is hard to believe how many people have had these issues - there should be a free update kit available by recall. Thanks for your message
Thank you so much for your video! I could fix our toilet because of your explanation!
Glad it helped... some fixes are easy, some regular, some frustrating... the Thetford seems to throw a host of frustrations towards the caravan owner. Have a great season
Thank you so much, Paul, you have solved our vacation 😊
Glad it helped - keep your eyes open for further corrosion... only last week the fuse corroded inside its housing!
Thanks Paul, I've just bought a caravan & the toilet wasn't working. This gives me a good basis to start from. I think I'll be using a bit of WD40 on all of it.
Thanks - The corrosion is such a pain, but well considered repairs can help if using good components
Great information Paul thanks very much will follow your instuction tomorrow and hopefully cure my problem
Thanks, hope it helped
Thanks Paul. Really helpful. Loved the replacement fuse holder and heatshrink and also the cct diagram. I think my pump is completely guncked up but will try the 12v direct trick to completely prove its the pump. Now to look at why my Thetford N112 3 way fridge doesn't turn on at all. Am hoping this is a 12v power problem too and not the control circuit....Best regards, Steve.
Glad it helped. Most fridge problems arise from the terrible rotary switch that selects gas/12v/240v - this connects with reed switches - the current through the rotary switch is almost zero - as the contacts frequently tarnish over winter it is common for early season problems to crop up - try rotating the switch quickly clockwise/anticlockwise all the way about 8-10 times - this should polish away any tarnishing and improve the connection..... may as well give it a go!
@@pcollingridge the N112 is electronically switched. The cct board has a standby button, a selector button and a level button. £95.....
Thanks for the video having the same problem on my bailey caravan but now know what to do got all the bits now just to fit them as you say not cheap
all the best🙂
Good luck!
Very useful thanks Paul. I have the same problem. It will have to wait until next season now. Many thanks.
No worries - hope you get it done. Before you begin make sure you (a) have all the tools and parts (b) your element can be pulled out of the tank without having to dismantle the whole seat! But it is relatively easy if you don't mind swapping between distance & reading glasses a thousand times!
Thanks for that video Paul all explains perfect
Great - thanks, I'm really glad it helped
Very good video. If anything happens to my toilet I might just do away with the circuit board and fit a separate push button switch.
Absolutely - a press & hold switch would barely cost anything and would be more reliable. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much, this is a fantastic video and has helped me a lot.
Great - thanks, I'm really glad it helped
Great another very useful video as usual thanks , have you a way of removing the flush toilet nossel from the toilet bowel to replace.
I think it is a gentle twist and slide - Our van is currently in storage so I'm unable to find out. Thanks for watching
I've replaced the reed board the flush pcb board the pump and new wiring and leisure battery and still not working?
Sorry to hear that - you may need to ask a friend who owns a multimeter to check where the power stops - it may be the supply wire is corroded before it gets to the harness. Hope this helps
Great video, I’ve got exactly the same issue. How do the wires fix and unfix to the fuse.
That's where I had to change my plans. The original fuse holder became completely detached, however I was unable to solder the new fuse holder in as the caravan wiring is really cheap and doesn't take solder, so I had to use screw connectors. Try a WAGO, it is better
great vid computer board was shot, put in a fan light switch, a switch to flush and the light flashes when full 20 bucks better than 280 bucks and post cheers
Glad it helped - the repairs can be really expensive - I feel the board is unnecessary, it simply needs a switch, so well done
Great demo.where is the fuze located on the c260
Sorry, mine is a 250, but documentation suggests the fuse is incorporated on the main board and that it is self-resetting. Hope you can sort it
Very good tutorial thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching, Carl
Hi what type of connector is used for the wires onto the circuit board as several wires have corroded and fallen off, very informative video thank you
The connector is a typical 6-way edge connector but the spacing is important. You may have problems soldering these wires on because they are steel wires not copper. You may be better off soldering copper wires onto the connector and then attaching stripped-back original wires further down... the original wires used have no resilience to corrosion. You should be able to solder quality copper to the side-connector, though you'll be best using hardware connectors to join the wires together.
@@pcollingridge thank you for information
Excellent video very helpful thanks very much
Glad it was helpful!
Corroded wire does not take solder. You MUST clean the wire off, or else cut it back to a non-corroded wire in order to apply solder.
I know - but this was actually steel wire - which was odd - it is really cheaply put together!
Digging the wrist watch !
Charity-shop's finest!
Brown is red +
And blue is -
???????
Thanks for the video 👍
Yes... it was just a bit of wire I pulled from the skip!. Thanks for watching
I have the opposite problem on a c250 in a motorhome. When i press the flush button and release it the flush continues. Is it likely to be the circuit board at fault?
Yes, almost certainly a short circuit - try drying it all out and giving the circuit-board a gentle rub-over with an old toothbrush as it may have salts across the tracks. We had exactly the same thing.... came back one evening to find the entire flush had emptied itself into the loo. As the switch is part of the circuit board I would be surprised if it were anywhere else. Drying and cleaning are a good first step, but the circuit-boards are fabulously poor quality for an eye-watering price...
@@pcollingridge thanks for the advice. I have already disconnected and removed the housing as it was the only way to stop the flow. I will let you know how i get on.
Solved! Cleaned as you suggested but still noticed some debris between 2 of the circuit tracks. Scrapped away the debris between the tracks with a stanley blade, refitted and all now working ok. Thanks for the video
Great news - I just wonder why it all has to be via a circuit-board when a press-to-make switch would do a perfect job! Happy camping, Thanks for viewing!
@@pcollingridge Your almost right, just need a bit of extra cunning to incorporate the level sensor to stop the cassette from overflowing when full, a simple relay (maybe with a diode across the coil) could be used to achieve this. Then taking it a step further its also a simple matter to also incorporate a remotely fitted 'timer module' for a extractor fan
Hi Paul, how do I access the pump on the C250, is it from inside toilet in van or inside where the cassette is?
Hi Mark, in the C250 it is via the external door. The pump it inserted from below - there's usually a couple of big blue tabs to squeeze just behind the flush-drain (pull the cassette out to give you more room to move). It's a bit of a job getting it in & out as the hoses get stiff over time so may need replacing. The later model C260 uses a submersible pump which is much easier to manage
thanks for that very well presented too :)
Thank you - I have still had issues with corrosion within the system and fully understand why the c260 was modified to reduce these. All the same, I think they should offer an upgraded wiring/board kit to rectify existing installations. Thanks for your kind comments.
Thanks for a great tutorial. Unfortunately after replacing all parts I still didn't have any success so I've bought a new wiring loom and pump. Is this something you have fitted?
Glad you found it useful - I have had the whole loom out - tie some string to the old loom before you pull it out to help you pull the new one through
Try contact cleaner on the contact between the wiring loom and the wires from the battery. I replaced everything and found it still didn’t work until I sprayed that contact. Good luck
What a great tutorial. The full signal light permanently on. Could it be the read switch?
The reed switch is simply a switch that turns on when a magnet is near; your toilet tank has a magnetic float that rises up and allows a current to flow through the LED. I imagine the problem is more likely to be a short circuit caused by corrosion of the bottom of the big circuit board. You may be able to test if there's a short circuit by gently disconnecting the reed switch board.... the indicator should go off if the reed switch is a problem or stay on if the main circuit board has a short.. You could also test the operation of the reed switch by removing the little green circuit board from the back/far-end of the loo tunnel then clip a circuit-tester across the two terminals on the little green board - you should notice a difference if a magnet goes near the red reed switch (the actual reed switch is a pinky-red and the size of half a matchstick). The most common other fault is that the magnet in the tank falls off and gets tipped out with all the poo
@@pcollingridge I have looked in the cassette tunnel and my fuse holder is slightly higher up than the one in the video. The pump did stop working and when I replaced the fuse with a new one, it started working again. The old fuse showed some corrosion. The whole of the fuse holder and reed switch unit clips out, so I will check that for corrosion too.
Having intermittent flushing issue even with new controller board. what did you use to introduce 12V to test the pump on the connector block?
I had an old 12v battery and used a bit of flex with croc-clips..... BUT DO put a fuse in-line if using any car or leisure battery or you will instantaneously create a fire if it accidentally shorts, even for a second.... best to use 8x AA batteries wired in series or run a wire from the 12v TV socket
Awesome Thankyou
Glad it helped!