If you notice he used a feeler gauge to check the gap between the two ends of the ring @ 2:34, then he ground a little material off, and rechecked the gap. Too loose of a gap = low compression and/or oil burning, too tight of a gap and the ring can break as it heats and expands. The piston is used to square the ring up in the cylinder to get the most accurate reading.
Ok that was pretty sweet. It did look easier than it really is, but it's fun to watch the process like that. especially since I'm in the middle of the same process myself.
The best thing I can say is, one, get a Factory Service Manual for you vehicle, and also a Haynes or Chilton manual. Then find a mechanic, and make him your best buddy ever, cause he's going to be the one to teach you how to rebuild that motor, lol.
most of the time the engine stand will connect to the engine's transmission mount holes (the arms on the engine stand are adjustable) my dad's had his 4cyl open engine on it and a chevy 350 v8 on it.. just have to loosen and adjust the mount arms - putting the engine on it is the easy part hehe
Great job.. One little thing, when tightening down the head bolts it should not all be done at one time. half or so on the torque and then finish it to the max. Otherwise what looks to be a flawless rebuild of a shiny new engine.
Very nice, takes some skills to do that. Those are some beefy rods. I'm building a Mazda KLDE / KLZE / KLG4 hybrid in a couple months, ported ZE heads and ZE cams, ZE rods and pistons, G4 intake manifold, DE valve retainers.
ARP gives a special moly lube that holds torque values well. They compare vs motor oil. they still mandate that you use some kind of liquid lubricant before torquing.
That was cool I wish there were more vids on youtube like this. I would like to take the mechainc course for my personal benefit one of these days. You should post a vid of the car running next!
Sounds like your talking about people welding the differential pin, which still maintains the complete functionality of an open differential, but the pin isn't going to heat up, snap the retaining pins, and blow through your tranny case, all because it's welded into place. It's a lot harder to break a good strong weld than it is to break a roll pin.
oddtaylone : im thinking its a 7 bolt. the cam angle sensor on the head behind the cam gear, the fact that the block has a main girdle, and lastly the bolt pattern for the bell housing.. every 6bolt ive ever seen had only 4 bolts holding the engine to the transaxle.
yea true but it depends cuz i think arp for example have a type of lubricant you put on the threads and you have to follow a different torquing sequence then you would if you didnt use it...
fantástico,é de louvar o trabalho destes jovens mecânicos;sabem muito bem o que fazem:)optimo trabalho continuem assim cumprimentos do ppl do Clube Mitsubishi de Portugal :)
"micrometer" its a measuring tool that kinda looks like a C clamps and most can measure to a thousandth of an inch and some car measure to a ten thousandth of an inch, there are english and metric ones and also digital ones
Well I would like to know how long this motor held up. Didn't look to me like the guy used any kind of plastiguage for bearing clearances. Other than that awesome. This vid is actually informative for me doing my build. I just wish you would have recorded startup.
By far the sexiest thing I've ever seen. And mow many takes did you guys do before the timing belt went on perfectly? Cause I know that thing couldn't have gone on in one shot...
watching a 4G63 put together properly by human hands and a fellow Wisconsinite makes me happy, gives me hope for humanity. Almost gives me a boner. If it were a 1gb I'd be creaming in my shorts. Glad somebody's got the time and resources to rebuild these magnificent works of art.
lol tell me about it, my buddy built up a 94 integra... dart block, cp pistons, eagle rods ect.. and he didnt really do any measurements including the oil bearing clearances! Well about 3k miles after the build i guess it started knocking... cause was the middle journal had way to low of clearance and also one rod bearing clearance was off... well i guess you learn from your mistakes.. the fun part was plastigauging all the mains and rods while the engine was still in the car...
First, great job I aprecciate, Second, Nice Headers looks like original, and one question, what kind of sustance are the spray, sorry for my english...
I assume you plastigauged everything before making the video. I am about to assemble mine here shortly and I was thinking of making a similar video. Also, aren't the mains supposed to be at least line honed if you put main studs in?
It makes me glad to see that I'm not the only kid these days that can build a motor. Seems like it always ends up being some kid whines to his parents till they give 'em the money to go pay some one else to build their car. All they while they have next to no knowledge of the inner workings of their riced out civic, and when it breaks, they have no idea what happens, whine to their parents who pay the repair bill, and it all starts over again. I'm proud to fix all (ok, most) of my own things.
Cool vid. Only at 6:40 you forgot to put the power steering pump bracket on the block before the main water pipe :) Did you have to remove the manifold, turbo, waterpipe again to put the power steering pump bracket back in? or were you not running ps? :)
Generally a 20G build is a cost effective way to build a drag car, and I got to drive a 10 second DSM for like 2 minutes, not something I want to drive every day.
i would say 450awhp is on the high end of a big 16g from what iv heard... anything from 400-600ish is around the gt35r range lol big difference from a 16g...
lol that sounds funny bro. What are you going to do take the whole motor apart to modify that with what parts. you are going to be good especially since you have the 97-99 7 bolt. no problems with your motor
Let me guess, trans am owner? The 4G63 is probably the most powerful 4 banger engine out there, if a 4 cylinder engine can be a mach for your 8 cylinders of American muscle, you have to give us DSM owners some credit.
hey did you watched the torque of the scews? just for know, because i never seen a torquemeter (i don't know if it's well speled and it's the right name my english it's not very good with technical words :P)
YOu guys don't know much about turbo dsms. The 7 bolt ussually has crankwalk pre 60k miles. The reason is becuase they modified the oil squirters in the crank. the are smaller in the 95-96 7 bolts. they tried something new and i failed. The 6 bolt and post 96 7 bolts have the bigger oil squirters in the crank. Once your engine crankwalks it is almost impossible to save it. It scars the bearings too bad. But it is a great build. I wondered if he bored the motor out?
Wow. I didn't think our video would ever make it on here. The bearings were fine, the motor runs flawlessly. This video was in no way, shape, or form to be instructional. It was purely for fun and we didn't intend to cover every little step. There are flaws, we understand but don't knock it. If you hate it so much, go make a better one.
idk maybe i just thought even a bit over 400awh is pushing it on a big 16g. my buddy does know a guy that just ran a 11.7 with a stock 6-bolt and a 16g so idk maybe it possible i suppose..
One of the greatest videos on youtube. Should be shown worldwide in mechanic learning classes!
If you notice he used a feeler gauge to check the gap between the two ends of the ring @ 2:34, then he ground a little material off, and rechecked the gap. Too loose of a gap = low compression and/or oil burning, too tight of a gap and the ring can break as it heats and expands. The piston is used to square the ring up in the cylinder to get the most accurate reading.
Wow, that's pretty awesome that these young kids know all that. I would definitely let you guys work on my car anytime.
Its always good to see someone building their own engine. Great job man.
Ok that was pretty sweet. It did look easier than it really is, but it's fun to watch the process like that. especially since I'm in the middle of the same process myself.
I will agree with you on that because there are A LOT of measurements when it comes to building a engine the correct way.
dont matter how many times you watch it its always good lol
The best thing I can say is, one, get a Factory Service Manual for you vehicle, and also a Haynes or Chilton manual.
Then find a mechanic, and make him your best buddy ever, cause he's going to be the one to teach you how to rebuild that motor, lol.
very nice. I can't believe you got the timing belt on so easily.
most of the time the engine stand will connect to the engine's transmission mount holes (the arms on the engine stand are adjustable)
my dad's had his 4cyl open engine on it and a chevy 350 v8 on it.. just have to loosen and adjust the mount arms - putting the engine on it is the easy part hehe
La France vous a regarder...ça pète ce genre de video, merci les mec ;)
Great job.. One little thing, when tightening down the head bolts it should not all be done at one time. half or so on the torque and then finish it to the max. Otherwise what looks to be a flawless rebuild of a shiny new engine.
Very nice, takes some skills to do that. Those are some beefy rods.
I'm building a Mazda KLDE / KLZE / KLG4 hybrid in a couple months, ported ZE heads and ZE cams, ZE rods and pistons, G4 intake manifold, DE valve retainers.
ARP gives a special moly lube that holds torque values well. They compare vs motor oil. they still mandate that you use some kind of liquid lubricant before torquing.
Nice job guys, and we always recommend lubricating everything that needs it.
hellz yeah. nice video man. it made engine building seem soo fun and easy. wish it were as easy as it seemed in that video. lol
such a sick video! props. I agree, what a regular thing us dsmers are doing.
Great,great!!!
You're very young and BRAVO!!!
Simon
That was cool I wish there were more vids on youtube like this. I would like to take the mechainc course for my personal benefit one of these days. You should post a vid of the car running next!
I love the part where he is holding the turbo and says "the most important part". That's true, because without a turbo, 4 cylinders can't make power.
Sounds like your talking about people welding the differential pin, which still maintains the complete functionality of an open differential, but the pin isn't going to heat up, snap the retaining pins, and blow through your tranny case, all because it's welded into place. It's a lot harder to break a good strong weld than it is to break a roll pin.
Very cool man!
I wish i could do all that in 10 MIN
lol
Keep doing what your doing
DSM all the way.
Daiv
nice vid man. it be cool to see the final result on the street.
looks about right... just ugh, that muzak!!! it killed me the whole time
dude, you gotta make some instructional guides. that looks awesome and i wanna do a couple engine rebuilds as well
Damn I remember this video from back in the day!!! I made a clutch replacement reply to this artwork
good idea for a engine build ...
he didn't touch the underside of the bear shell(s) and he lubed the top so it shouldn't be bad
very nice job man i wish i knew how to do that to my 94 talon awd... i wish i wish
great job bro
respect
oddtaylone : im thinking its a 7 bolt. the cam angle sensor on the head behind the cam gear, the fact that the block has a main girdle, and lastly the bolt pattern for the bell housing.. every 6bolt ive ever seen had only 4 bolts holding the engine to the transaxle.
that was cool to watch. needed to get my engine on
yea true but it depends cuz i think arp for example have a type of lubricant you put on the threads and you have to follow a different torquing sequence then you would if you didnt use it...
fantástico,é de louvar o trabalho destes jovens mecânicos;sabem muito bem o que fazem:)optimo trabalho continuem assim cumprimentos do ppl do Clube Mitsubishi de Portugal :)
"micrometer" its a measuring tool that kinda looks like a C clamps and most can measure to a thousandth of an inch and some car measure to a ten thousandth of an inch, there are english and metric ones and also digital ones
damn, good stuff dude.
that was a beast ass turbo there hah
yes..."The most important part of the whole engine"
Im guessing the spray was gasket adhesive - kinda stuff makes life easy (and messy too hehe)
REALLY sweet video man. looks like you done this before
That was awesome dude, i'd love to do something like that!
Did it cost much, did come in a kit with instructions and stuff?
Thanks
yea i have a 99 z28 6-speed but always been a fan of dsm's and have some friends with them but im thinkin about gettin a 1g tsi awd here soon...
you forgot the valve cover!!!!! hahaha nice build!!! ima try to record my rebuild on my civic
Well I would like to know how long this motor held up. Didn't look to me like the guy used any kind of plastiguage for bearing clearances. Other than that awesome. This vid is actually informative for me doing my build.
I just wish you would have recorded startup.
good video guys, learned a lot.
couple things
1) are cams REALLY that simple?
2) what was the stuff he sprayed on the gaskets???
By far the sexiest thing I've ever seen. And mow many takes did you guys do before the timing belt went on perfectly? Cause I know that thing couldn't have gone on in one shot...
watching a 4G63 put together properly by human hands and a fellow Wisconsinite makes me happy, gives me hope for humanity. Almost gives me a boner. If it were a 1gb I'd be creaming in my shorts. Glad somebody's got the time and resources to rebuild these magnificent works of art.
I would agree with you but I found out the 10 second hondas they put 4G63T in them I saw a 10 second honda for sale on craigslist with a 4g63t
Nice video. Wonder why you didn't torque your head studs into the block before you set the head/gasket onto the block?
that was sick knows what hes doing
Most probably pre torqued to an amount then final 90degrees, it's very common to do that, makes for better accuracy..
I'm guessing 4-5 hours. I overhauled a chevy 350 and tested in 10 hours. Measurement and timing included
Nice Vid, how about another vide that shows the engine running and how it goes at the drags? :)
The engine does run doesn't it? ;)
lol tell me about it, my buddy built up a 94 integra... dart block, cp pistons, eagle rods ect.. and he didnt really do any measurements including the oil bearing clearances! Well about 3k miles after the build i guess it started knocking... cause was the middle journal had way to low of clearance and also one rod bearing clearance was off... well i guess you learn from your mistakes.. the fun part was plastigauging all the mains and rods while the engine was still in the car...
First, great job I aprecciate, Second, Nice Headers looks like original, and one question, what kind of sustance are the spray, sorry for my english...
Very cool man ! I have one 1995 Eclipse
great job buddy..i wish i could do it too
Very good video! :D
I have a question; what paste (?) are You using before putting in a crankshaft?
Greets and post more of these! :D
kool beanz, now i wonder if the dude every checked the oil clearances or plastigaged the main and rod bearings . . .
dude that was awesome where did you learn to do that?
I assume you plastigauged everything before making the video. I am about to assemble mine here shortly and I was thinking of making a similar video.
Also, aren't the mains supposed to be at least line honed if you put main studs in?
wow, you work so quick!, is your quality anygood?
you dont use locktite in the engine bay anyway, you use molybdenum lube and engine assembly lube.
Good job, seriously man. How long did all this take you?
Very cool! (coming from a Ford guy)
It makes me glad to see that I'm not the only kid these days that can build a motor. Seems like it always ends up being some kid whines to his parents till they give 'em the money to go pay some one else to build their car.
All they while they have next to no knowledge of the inner workings of their riced out civic, and when it breaks, they have no idea what happens, whine to their parents who pay the repair bill, and it all starts over again.
I'm proud to fix all (ok, most) of my own things.
Cool vid. Only at 6:40 you forgot to put the power steering pump bracket on the block before the main water pipe :) Did you have to remove the manifold, turbo, waterpipe again to put the power steering pump bracket back in? or were you not running ps? :)
Generally a 20G build is a cost effective way to build a drag car, and I got to drive a 10 second DSM for like 2 minutes, not something I want to drive every day.
i would say 450awhp is on the high end of a big 16g from what iv heard... anything from 400-600ish is around the gt35r range lol big difference from a 16g...
Good shit, Not a bad turbo of choice either
sweet video, you guys are good!
lol that sounds funny bro. What are you going to do take the whole motor apart to modify that with what parts. you are going to be good especially since you have the 97-99 7 bolt. no problems with your motor
hahah... wtf... u make it so easy to rebuilt the engine, and it is 4g63... hahaha, evo land, gr8 stuff man!! :)
i see that dial indicator on front of the crank, same play as in crank walk ?
Sucks that it blew up literally 10 minutes after he built it =\
Poor little 4G. RIP
awsome!
where'd you learn this at?
too bad we didnt get to hear that beast roar...but nice turbo set up...did you rebuild the engine because it crank-walked on you too?
brilliant video
Let me guess, trans am owner? The 4G63 is probably the most powerful 4 banger engine out there, if a 4 cylinder engine can be a mach for your 8 cylinders of American muscle, you have to give us DSM owners some credit.
Nice build bro. What was the reall time line how many hours
hey did you watched the torque of the scews? just for know, because i never seen a torquemeter (i don't know if it's well speled and it's the right name my english it's not very good with technical words :P)
Nice build
YOu guys don't know much about turbo dsms. The 7 bolt ussually has crankwalk pre 60k miles. The reason is becuase they modified the oil squirters in the crank. the are smaller in the 95-96 7 bolts. they tried something new and i failed. The 6 bolt and post 96 7 bolts have the bigger oil squirters in the crank. Once your engine crankwalks it is almost impossible to save it. It scars the bearings too bad. But it is a great build. I wondered if he bored the motor out?
Fuckin love it!!!! deffinatly a favorite now make more please!!!
savage vid dude, fair play.
why would you use loctite on the mains and rod bearings? maybe assembly lube...
And I didnt see him use loctite on the bearings... Where did you come up with that?
that's a 7 bolt 4g63, they don't use thrust washers, they use a thrust bearing. 4g64 use thrust washers.
Wow. I didn't think our video would ever make it on here. The bearings were fine, the motor runs flawlessly. This video was in no way, shape, or form to be instructional. It was purely for fun and we didn't intend to cover every little step. There are flaws, we understand but don't knock it. If you hate it so much, go make a better one.
Great video
Whats the name of the song at 3:20 seconds into the clip? the techno song? also very good video
very very good video!!! =) where did you guy learn all that??? jejej I want to learn too!!! lol
DSM 4ever!!
still even on a 16g i dont think iv heard of one supporting 450awhp on stock compression with pump gas...
idk maybe i just thought even a bit over 400awh is pushing it on a big 16g. my buddy does know a guy that just ran a 11.7 with a stock 6-bolt and a 16g so idk maybe it possible i suppose..
thank you so much i was about to ask what this song was
Aren't you supposed to torque things down in stages and is that one old piston among 3 new ones?
this vid is cool as hell!!!!
Nice vid,full race mani? wanna come to uk and build my 93 evo1 motor??
Great job!
great video.
how did you learn how to do this i want to know im veary intrested on learning and starting my own project can you please tell me
thanks alot
*giggle* The most powerful F1 motors ever were Turbo inline 4 cyl.
Excuseme, what kind of oil or coating is used on the bearings surface (the red tube that is used)