To solve the dipstick problem, just install the engine the other way around. Then you'll have an Eclipse with multiple reverse gears like the opening scene of the first Fast and Furious movie. Authentic! 😎👍
@@Simpyspec yep! they work really well, just need one with a built in heating element. And you could probably hook it up to a basin as a way to reuse the degreaser solution.
Having a sponsor and mentioning them and using the tools from the sponsors has been a great trade off. Seeing how much more organized you are now is great. The quality of videos are A+ keep up the good work man.
Dude this is the most serious of your builds so far and i'm loving every second of it. It's great to see you improve with every video and every challenge. The whole struggle from last year was worth it when I see you out doing even bigger car channels here on UA-cam. Keep it up man you're killing it!!
Not disagreeing that this is a very serious build, because it is... But (and this is just my opinion), I think the Off-road, AWD, EJ Powered, Miata just slightly edges this out in seriousness (obviously this had the rear suspension engineered, but the Miata was AWD swap, both builds very close in the work though)
Have you considered making a little painting station for the shop? Nothing car sized but something for painting parts like valve covers and whatnot. You can just use a box fan with a filter element on the front and an hvac tube routed out the door if you wanted it to be able to move about. just needs to be a box with one side opena and a little turntable in the middle, then you can paint without it having to be nice out
This brings back memories of putting a 6 bolt 4G63 that I built in my basement into my 95 AWD TSi. Good times. Hard to believe that it was almost 15 years ago now.
Was I going nuts, or were you removing gaskets with what appeared to be a razor blade held with pliers? If so, you are the first mechanic in history to buy a CNC plasma table before you buy gasket scrapers. Your congratulatory cookie will be in the mail.
Dang that sucks about the bellhousing! At least it wasn't an AWD bellhousing. Woulda been an even more expensive oops. Really looking awesome in the engine bay.
20:10 this is what I like about youtube. Videos like show that not everything always goes as planned. While working on one thing, another thing can break.
You should add a fluidampr to the engine it helps the engine run smoother when running more boost and higher rpms. But damn this build is looking really good keep it up man.
Seeing you add all those AN fittings, it made me think of something. And that's another AN fitting to a catch can. Awesome work dude, that welding table looks handy af
i really liked this video and also the way it was filmed. there was constantly something to look for and it didn't get boring and it also didn't feel slow, yet we had 24minutes of watch time! i am looking forward to the next video:)
You should pick up an aftermarket j-pipe for that turbo -- They make a huge difference. Also, if it ever becomes an issue, they make alternator relocation kits for those that put the alternator on the other side of the block under the intake manifold.
Parts washer with water and actual CRC parts cleaner. fill the tub up just below the intake for the filter with water and the rest with CRC. the pump will only pump the oil-based CRC and the water will collect the crap. when you drain, have a petcock on the bottom and drain the water on the bottom until its clean make sure to fill up with water again. no waste in expensive actual parts washer solvent. Keep up the bomb videos
Hell yeah for sonic tools. Sponsor spots I actually like to watch. Also like to hear your feedback over time on how they hold up. Hope comments like this help you get continued repeat sponsored videos with them. I am considering putting an order in next time I have tool money to spend. Cheers :)
For the bell housing u should pre heat the area ur gonna weld as well as drill a hole at the end fo the crack and grind a groove in the crack. The preheat will help get some of the shit out of the metal as well as will help get full penetration.
If you get another shot a weld repair on that casting, run 60hz with 80% balance to punch through the garbage casting. It helps to rasp the crack as well
When building an engine and torquing every bolt to spec, use a sharpie to mark the bolts you have torqued, this way you don't have to worry about having missed any.
Dude, I love watching another builder of things work to put together a complex system like this. 50% art/50% flow state/50% mad scientist with some sick video to boot. Really enjoy your vids.
Have you done a video about how you got started in cars? I believe I remember you saying you didn't grow up a car guy, but are now. How idd you get started? You've learned so much over such a short span of time.
You have come so far since I started watching it's pretty amazing. That car is going to be badass. I don't think I have ever seen you so clumsy lmao. Take your time. Don't rush. You seem a bit nervous.
Good save on that damaged crank pulley tooth. I ran a damaged tooth on my mk5 GTI - I thought it'd be fine - it wasn't fine. Caused a timing belt failure which led to crushed valves.
Loving th build Dude, just fyi for cast aluminium repairs where the area is greasy its almost guarenteed the internal of the metal will be too, so to do a decent repair you have to preheat the aluminium to remove as much of the oil as you can.
the aluminum isnt garbage on that transmission bell housing, 1 you cleaned it with a steel wire wheel which adds impurities to the aluminum, 2 you didnt grind out the cracks so you were not going to get any penetration on that and 3 its cast aluminum so it has to be pre heated to take the weld nicely, not to mention on everything else you should have wiped it with acetone most of those welds probably are going to leak sooner than later.
The Mitsubishi Delica/ L400 from the 90s had a 4g64. Maybe the dipstick and tube will be long enough for you to use since it was a longitudinally mounted engine in a cab over configuration. Good luck, great work!
Idk if you knew this... But do not I repeat do not use the throwout bearing that comes in any aftermarket clutch kit. Only use OEM throwout bearings on 4g63's
next time you crack something like that drill the end of the crack to stop it from propagating, corners are stress risers and the end of the crack is the most acute angle you can have
When he didn't start drilling and went to welding I told my wife "oh no he didn't drill it to stop it from cracking more". She has no idea what im talking about of course lol
for the next time installing a trans, they should just slide in with some wiggling. i was tought to never seat an trans with the bolts. you and i seem to have learned exactly why. otherwise your work is really cool! keep it up!
i love your videos, I hope you do someting even crazier next time like a full tube frame car or dual engine or something like that! not everyone likes watching the process except for us build nerds!
I know it is a bit moot at this point, but whatever you are welding anything cast: iron, aluminium, chinesium, anything, you need to pre-heat the cast. The crystalline structure of cast is different from the "go and blow" of welding. Pre heating with a torch makes everything meet in the middle.
I wish I had a 6 bolt to build for my Talon! Its making shy of 350 awd right now i could just imagine what it would be like at 500 lol good job man Really love this Build
i feel the pain of breaking a brand new part you are installing for the first time lol love what you been doing keep up the dope work. ps whats the best way for people to get a message to you?
did old evos have engine and trans backwards, having another gear in transmission to allow such thing? would be better to get turbo & oil dipstick to other side
Get some 3M Roloc disks for the gasket removal. That and a super scraper. They are the best. If you don’t do that at least use a brass wheel. It’s softer and is less likely to ruin the surface
Forgive me if I’m stating the obvious but did you clean that bell housing with a clean, non-contaminated stainless wire brush and some acetone? Often folks overlook the stainless wire brush part, as they use the same wire brush on steel one day and then use it to clean their aluminum before welding the next day, and it deposits little bits of steel or dirt into the aluminum surface causing a bad weld. Gotta keep a dedicated stainless wire brush that only touches your aluminum. Hope that helps.
Very curious if there is a reason you kept the balance shaft? I am building a 7 bolt 4g63 atm and got a new motor with it deleted and see a lot of people on the forums delete it, not only am I convinced it caused my first motor to grenade bc the belt for it snapped taking out the timing belt and dropping the valves at 50 mph 😔, but it’s just not necessary for a higher hp car… serious question !
To solve the dipstick problem, just install the engine the other way around. Then you'll have an Eclipse with multiple reverse gears like the opening scene of the first Fast and Furious movie. Authentic! 😎👍
And R means "race mode". It goes forward!
Isnt this possible to correct by "inverting" the diff somehow?
That car actually had a tractor gear box between the normal trans and the diff.
They also had a 15 speed gearbox and 20 mile runway in the one where they had to stop that cargo plane before the bad guys escaped
@@wrexz you act like no one saw that and cringed
can we appreciate that 3 sponsors has been made in this video and NONE of them was boring or useless?
Really more like 4! LOL
Yes my thoughts exactly Gingium keeps it real even through the hard times that's why he's one of the best for sure
You should get a couple of cheap dishwashers for the shop to run parts through.
@@Simpyspec yep! they work really well, just need one with a built in heating element. And you could probably hook it up to a basin as a way to reuse the degreaser solution.
Having a sponsor and mentioning them and using the tools from the sponsors has been a great trade off. Seeing how much more organized you are now is great. The quality of videos are A+ keep up the good work man.
Dude this is the most serious of your builds so far and i'm loving every second of it. It's great to see you improve with every video and every challenge. The whole struggle from last year was worth it when I see you out doing even bigger car channels here on UA-cam. Keep it up man you're killing it!!
Not disagreeing that this is a very serious build, because it is... But (and this is just my opinion), I think the Off-road, AWD, EJ Powered, Miata just slightly edges this out in seriousness (obviously this had the rear suspension engineered, but the Miata was AWD swap, both builds very close in the work though)
you really outdoing yourself upping the quality!
Agreed
Glad ya'll noticed and enjoyed!
this comment section is so wholesome, almost all positive comments, we simply love seeing the quality your videos reached. Keep it up man
Man, this is so good. Even ur removable xbrase is inline with the window cutouts. Makes me want to do better on my builds. Thanks for the inspiration
It's great to see you using almost every equipment in the shop in this video!
Have you considered making a little painting station for the shop? Nothing car sized but something for painting parts like valve covers and whatnot. You can just use a box fan with a filter element on the front and an hvac tube routed out the door if you wanted it to be able to move about. just needs to be a box with one side opena and a little turntable in the middle, then you can paint without it having to be nice out
New video guy putting in work eh? So much more movement in the shots, looks great
Loving the camera guy.
Congrats on making your car harder to work on. Sincerely, an MR2 owner
So excited to sit back and watch some great content on my Sunday. This is interesting watching you being filmed and not filming it yourself.
Your confidence level to tackle this build has grown so much over the last few years and you should be proud of yourself 👍
its so sick already, cant wait to see what it looks like with all the suspension in! rip bell housing tho
I'll get ya a hint. It looks AWESOME with the suspension :)
@@_Gingium_ just got the Patreon notification, cant wait💪🏼
@@_Gingium_ do you have any plans for the volvo 240 other than the clutch and flywheel?
mf how your comment is 7 days old
@@xaviersavard8339 Hes a patreon member or Something that alles hin to watch it earlier
This brings back memories of putting a 6 bolt 4G63 that I built in my basement into my 95 AWD TSi. Good times. Hard to believe that it was almost 15 years ago now.
Love this camera work, keep it up !
That panning Timelapse was 🔥🔥🔥
Was I going nuts, or were you removing gaskets with what appeared to be a razor blade held with pliers? If so, you are the first mechanic in history to buy a CNC plasma table before you buy gasket scrapers. Your congratulatory cookie will be in the mail.
😂😂😂😂 yes that is exactly what I was doing
@@_Gingium_ i saw that and said "that looks like a really good way to do that! Ima have to try it next time!"
Dang that sucks about the bellhousing! At least it wasn't an AWD bellhousing. Woulda been an even more expensive oops. Really looking awesome in the engine bay.
Someone needs to sponsor you a parts washer.
20:10 this is what I like about youtube. Videos like show that not everything always goes as planned. While working on one thing, another thing can break.
The Timelapse shots are beautiful. Nice work!
You should add a fluidampr to the engine it helps the engine run smoother when running more boost and higher rpms. But damn this build is looking really good keep it up man.
Agreed blew my stock one apart
Seeing you add all those AN fittings, it made me think of something. And that's another AN fitting to a catch can. Awesome work dude, that welding table looks handy af
One recommendation for the future. Use factory crank and oil pump seals. Nice video, fun build
Dude this is your greatest and most serious build yet, I don’t know why you decided to give it away before it’s even done. You’re gonna miss it.
Oh I count down the days to watch your videos, you are hands down my favorite to watch, i can’t wait to see this thing it action! So excited!
Same man nobody like the ginger!
I can’t wait to see what you are making 3 yrs from now! Impressive ! Thanks
this thing is gonna be perfect for driving down the old town road now that the horses are in the back
Damn the slider for the time lapse really is a game changer!
Yeah! Super pumped with that investment!
Just as I’m taking a break from my barra Z lol, thank you
The only UA-camr I don't skip sponsors on
i really liked this video and also the way it was filmed. there was constantly something to look for and it didn't get boring and it also didn't feel slow, yet we had 24minutes of watch time! i am looking forward to the next video:)
This man do be dropping a lot of stuff 🤣honestly makes it the most realistic engine build I've watched
You should pick up an aftermarket j-pipe for that turbo -- They make a huge difference. Also, if it ever becomes an issue, they make alternator relocation kits for those that put the alternator on the other side of the block under the intake manifold.
camera man puttin in work!
The engine looks so good in there. Really enjoying the content.
Parts washer with water and actual CRC parts cleaner. fill the tub up just below the intake for the filter with water and the rest with CRC. the pump will only pump the oil-based CRC and the water will collect the crap. when you drain, have a petcock on the bottom and drain the water on the bottom until its clean make sure to fill up with water again. no waste in expensive actual parts washer solvent. Keep up the bomb videos
Hell yeah for sonic tools. Sponsor spots I actually like to watch. Also like to hear your feedback over time on how they hold up. Hope comments like this help you get continued repeat sponsored videos with them. I am considering putting an order in next time I have tool money to spend. Cheers :)
Make sure next time when welding a crack, to drill a hole at the beginning and the end of the crack to prevent spreading
For the bell housing u should pre heat the area ur gonna weld as well as drill a hole at the end fo the crack and grind a groove in the crack. The preheat will help get some of the shit out of the metal as well as will help get full penetration.
If you get another shot a weld repair on that casting, run 60hz with 80% balance to punch through the garbage casting. It helps to rasp the crack as well
cant wait to see the completed build man keep at it its going along lovely
Really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work! 😀
Hey you should have some merch with the hip hop rim shop logo! I'd buy a tee-shirt :D
When building an engine and torquing every bolt to spec, use a sharpie to mark the bolts you have torqued, this way you don't have to worry about having missed any.
Super cool build Gingium.
Dude, I love watching another builder of things work to put together a complex system like this. 50% art/50% flow state/50% mad scientist with some sick video to boot. Really enjoy your vids.
Have you done a video about how you got started in cars? I believe I remember you saying you didn't grow up a car guy, but are now. How idd you get started? You've learned so much over such a short span of time.
He used to do forza videos
This thing gonna straight rip!!!!
Absolutely!
You have come so far since I started watching it's pretty amazing. That car is going to be badass. I don't think I have ever seen you so clumsy lmao. Take your time. Don't rush. You seem a bit nervous.
Good save on that damaged crank pulley tooth. I ran a damaged tooth on my mk5 GTI - I thought it'd be fine - it wasn't fine. Caused a timing belt failure which led to crushed valves.
ARP studs are supposed to go in to the block dry and hand tight. You only are supposed to put assembly lube on the nuts to ensure proper torque.
Always relaxing vibes from your videos.
Loving th build Dude, just fyi for cast aluminium repairs where the area is greasy its almost guarenteed the internal of the metal will be too, so to do a decent repair you have to preheat the aluminium to remove as much of the oil as you can.
Great work man!
Gotta get you a parts washer. Watching you use that foaming cleaner makes me wanna get a parts washer
the aluminum isnt garbage on that transmission bell housing, 1 you cleaned it with a steel wire wheel which adds impurities to the aluminum, 2 you didnt grind out the cracks so you were not going to get any penetration on that and 3 its cast aluminum so it has to be pre heated to take the weld nicely, not to mention on everything else you should have wiped it with acetone most of those welds probably are going to leak sooner than later.
Watching this really makes me want another DSM. I miss my Talon TSI.
bro you are a genius, continue like that
I'm beyond hype to see this build finished 🤘🏻🤘🏻
The Mitsubishi Delica/ L400 from the 90s had a 4g64. Maybe the dipstick and tube will be long enough for you to use since it was a longitudinally mounted engine in a cab over configuration. Good luck, great work!
Idk if you knew this... But do not I repeat do not use the throwout bearing that comes in any aftermarket clutch kit. Only use OEM throwout bearings on 4g63's
next time you crack something like that drill the end of the crack to stop it from propagating, corners are stress risers and the end of the crack is the most acute angle you can have
When he didn't start drilling and went to welding I told my wife "oh no he didn't drill it to stop it from cracking more". She has no idea what im talking about of course lol
for the next time installing a trans, they should just slide in with some wiggling. i was tought to never seat an trans with the bolts. you and i seem to have learned exactly why. otherwise your work is really cool! keep it up!
This is so cool and fascinating to watch
those cinematics of the tools looked awesome! cant wait too see this beast finally drive :)
Having a camera man added so much more life to your videos I feel like. A+, great video Ging and good luck!
Congrats for keeping your cool when that housing cracked. Or did something get edited out? J/K. Looking good.
i love your videos, I hope you do someting even crazier next time like a full tube frame car or dual engine or something like that! not everyone likes watching the process except for us build nerds!
The front case seals in the topline kit will leak within a few years. Won’t be your problem though
Dopamine, everytime. Thanks ging. Hope you get that 4G63T to 500Whp.
Bro legit his videos are like a drug man I need my fix 😭
I know it is a bit moot at this point, but whatever you are welding anything cast: iron, aluminium, chinesium, anything, you need to pre-heat the cast. The crystalline structure of cast is different from the "go and blow" of welding. Pre heating with a torch makes everything meet in the middle.
Great work G. So meticulous. Nice to hear of the Volvo's comeback. I still want you to name it "Chevolvo". 🖖👽
I Never miss an upload man... You post, I watch.
Nice build, love the diy stuff.
21:54 what metal tube thickness do you use for the custom engine cage?
I wish I had a 6 bolt to build for my Talon! Its making shy of 350 awd right now i could just imagine what it would be like at 500 lol good job man Really love this Build
Amazing work! You really deserve so much more than you get
i feel the pain of breaking a brand new part you are installing for the first time lol love what you been doing keep up the dope work. ps whats the best way for people to get a message to you?
I think Patreon
Install the timing belt cover so the uv doesn't rot the belt. Those motors don't need help bending the valves
I like your choice of footwear it's real Gingium of you 👌
Mid engine 1g eclipse??? So cool 😎
Love seeing the work.
Amazing work as usual. Love it.
can't wait to see the 4G prettied up before the giveaway
how come you were using a different type of welding for the fuel line connector things?
did old evos have engine and trans backwards, having another gear in transmission to allow such thing? would be better to get turbo & oil dipstick to other side
Volvo 5 pot would make the turbo rear facing, plus you will benefit from that awesome sound
The best part of waking up is the Gingium in my cup.
Get some 3M Roloc disks for the gasket removal. That and a super scraper. They are the best. If you don’t do that at least use a brass wheel. It’s softer and is less likely to ruin the surface
Forgive me if I’m stating the obvious but did you clean that bell housing with a clean, non-contaminated stainless wire brush and some acetone? Often folks overlook the stainless wire brush part, as they use the same wire brush on steel one day and then use it to clean their aluminum before welding the next day, and it deposits little bits of steel or dirt into the aluminum surface causing a bad weld. Gotta keep a dedicated stainless wire brush that only touches your aluminum. Hope that helps.
Real awesome content, very nice to watch!👍
hope you pressure tested the fuel rail after welding on the -an fittings
Heck yeah bro 💪 thing is come along and looking rad af 🤙🏽🤘🏼✌🏽.. peace n love brotha , build on stay safe and have fun broski
Very curious if there is a reason you kept the balance shaft? I am building a 7 bolt 4g63 atm and got a new motor with it deleted and see a lot of people on the forums delete it, not only am I convinced it caused my first motor to grenade bc the belt for it snapped taking out the timing belt and dropping the valves at 50 mph 😔, but it’s just not necessary for a higher hp car… serious question !
Quality content 💯
Just so you know. The arp studs should not have lube on the threads that screw into the block. They're supposed to go in dry.
You know what? You're awesome :)