The port on the hot shoe side of the camera is for a proprietary wired remote...the port on the grip side of the camera is for the ribbon cable to connect a leaf shutter lens so you don't have to reset the lens for each exposure...
I have the super. Just so other's would know it's not necessary to take the entire film back off to load or unload just open back and take out the roll film insert. Good Review! Thanks for sharing!
hello You don't have to take off the film back to load a film. You simply take out the film cassette (caddy) if you don't want to switch film in the middle of a roll, Mamiya had spare cassettes in a plastic box that can be preloaded with film and just replace the cassette. The backs are multiformat 120 and 220, each format has a different type off cassette you have to use for the specific film format. This for the case if 220 format would come back (cinestill is working on it)
From the start of the 120 spool to the start of the film there's about a foot of backing paper. That protects the film before it's used. You need to advance past that to use the film.
@@DavidHancock thank you so much! I always saw people in videos doing it but I never understood why. That also explains why you need to align the start arrows. So that you know exactly how far it is until the film even begins
hi david, great video. its been helpful. you mention not leaving equipment in a hot car. what are your thoughts on shooting in the heat in general? lets say, in conditions of around 100+ degrees. dry desert heat for about as long as i can handle(probably 20 min) then retreating back to an air conditioned car thanks!
I think that would be fine because the gear likely won't heat up enough in that time. But if you went on a hike for some hours with lenses in a black camera bag in that heat, that could be an issue. Most camera makers, in their manuals, provide a safe temperature range for the gear. I would think that Mamiya had that information, too, in their lens information sheets.
Thank you so much! Its It's very helpful, ¿Do you know what kind of cartridge do I have to use with the Polaroid Back? It only says Mamiya polaroid Japan, Thank you in advance.
@expresspromo The film used in the Polaroid back for this camera is peel-apart instant pack film, last made by Fujifilm as FP-100C (color, discontinued in 2016) and FP-3000B (B&W, discontinued in 2014). So, unfortunately you can only get expired film, for a very high price ($80 per 10 picture cartridge), so not really worth it.
It pretty much says pretty firm even after going back in forth. It’s turntable but definitely not easy while I’m handholding (I don’t have the grip, I use the Manuel winder so it’s more awkward to hold).
@@elizabethlee6077 This is one I'd run past the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows Mamiya better than anyone on UA-cam. Could just be gummy grease, but that should get easier with use for a short period before refirming.
hi! great video! great channel! thanks for this tutorial. i wanted to ask if you know why my mamiya is not shooting! i checkd batterys, the dark slide is out. i took some photos, i`m in the number 6 actually, but now the camara dosen't allow me to take the next one! what could it be? thanks :)
Hmm. It's been some years since I sent this camera back to the owner, so I don't recall exactly what could cause that. I'd start with reinserting the dark slide and removing the film holder to ensure that the shutter is closed and that everything is operating normally. If it is, then there's something with the film or film holder. If not, then it should be pretty apparent. The Fix Old Cameras channel may have some insight, too, as he knows more about Mamiya than anyone else I'm aware of.
Hi thanks for posting this video. Do you know if the camera should fire without film in the back? My camera doesn't shoot without film in but im trying to work out if my camera has a fault with the shutter button.
Oh gosh, it's been almost two years since I sent this camera back to the owner. honestly, if I got one of these again, I'd have to sit down and watch this video to re-learn how to use the camera.
According to the manual to use the AE… the lens slider switch needs to be in “A” , chose your aperature and camera determines shutter speed. “AEL”, is just what you’d expect it locks the exposure so you don’t have to half press the shutter while fiddling with the compensation dial or recomposing the shot
Great video. David! I think you can help me. I decided yesterday I must own this camera. My last question is about alternating from landscape to portrait orientation while on a tripod. No rotating back, is there an L bracket or mechanism to do the job? How does this work out with the prism finder? Thank you! You've made videos on all the cameras, haven't you? Whenever I discover a new one, you've done a video for it. It's incredible.
Thank you! I've got a back catalog of around 300 video manuals (estimated, I've never really counted.) So there are still a lot to do (I'm aiming for 100 this year.) For this camera, yes, I believe you need a three-way head to go to landscape, but I returned this to the owner about 18 months ago and my memory of it is a bit foggy.
That's really awesome you get to handle basically every camera. It's a lot of work, I'm sure, but you sound like you're enjoying yourself. I ordered one! I'll be scratching a compositional guide into the focussing screen for this camera too, like I just commented about on your LX video. Will your answer be the same? Thanks!!
Mine had been sitting for 10yrs, was trying to get it to work, realized the dark slide has an interlock and has to be out before it will work. Just a tip for others. Thanks
Hey David! Great video, super helpful. I am having an issue though. I just purchased my first Mamiya 645 camera. I got the pro version supposedly with the FE401 AE Finder. I can't seem to figure out how to get the information to show up in the view finder. Did I get a bad version of a finder possibly? Would appreciate any help. Also when looking through my finder and top view I have a grid and more of crosshair look. You do not. Do you know why this might be the case? Thanks!
Okay so I have got the info to come up in the finder when I press the batter check button. I have a feeling I am doing something wrong... maybe not turning the camera on? lol would love any help! thanks again!
Haha nevermind, I just realized when I went to take my first photo the info pops up when you half press the shutter button. Thanks again though! Loved this series. Makes me way more confident using this new camera!
Thank you! It sounds like you have a different focusing screen than this camera did. There would have been a grid focusing screen for sure for these. Personally, I like grid screens the best and find them to be the most useful.
Does the shutter works if there is no film loaded? Like does the curtains open? I tried pressing the shutter without film, film slider removed and on A mode, it does not do anything. I am using the waist level finder. Thanks
I don't recall for sure. I don't think so. Pick up a roll of expired 120 or some GP3, which is the cheapest 120 film I think, and see if it behaves differently. I sent this camera back to its owner almost a year ago or I'd check for you.
Thanks David. I figured it out. When you use a winder crank (not the motor drive) you have to turn the crank until it stops so you are actually in the correct frame, that’s the only way the shutter will fire. It won’t fire if the frame counter number does not exactly align with the counter “line” or when you don’t wind the crank until it stops. Thanks David.
TLDR: the first three 1/3-stops are 100, 125, 160. To take anything after that, double them or half them If you have a scientific calculator (check your phone) you can do the following First we need to know that log(2)=0.301... This means that whenever we increase the power of 10 by about 0.3, we double the iso. For example 100=10^2 200=10^2.3 400=10^2.6 800=10^2.9 etc If instead you incease the power of 10 by 0.1 each time, you get the 1/3-stops 10^2.1=125 10^2.2=160 Bear in mind that the approximation log(2)=0.3 is essentially the same as 2^10=1000
@@DavidHancock thank you and while I was shooting old film the viewfinder went dark and when I try taking a picture I would hear a click and it won’t take a picture
OK, I'll start out with the obvious.... these 2 videos should be provided with all 645's sold. With sales of film cameras actually getting pretty heavy these days, it is beyond arguing that these two videos are TOTALLY critical info for someone just buying one of these great cameras. NOW Mr Hancock, here is part 2: do you have a place that you can recommend for 645 repair if it is needed? The only guy I know that does repairs is in the Philippines so that's pretty much out of the picture (so to speak). Keep on clickin !!!
Hi David, I am hoping you can help me. I have searched everywhere to no avail. I was excited to shoot with my 645 pro today. I loaded the film properly and took my first pic. No problem. But the film didnt advance and the advance function locked up, it never moved to the second frame. now it is stuck on the 1st frame and the shutter wont fire. I dont have it on multi mode either. Any advise would be awesome! thanks.
Firstly take the film back off and see if there's anything visibly wrong with the shutter. Also see if it will fire without the film back. If the camera will fire without the film back then the issue has to do with the film back (either the dark slide was in, the film wasn't advancing due it being loaded in some way that the camera didn't like, or the camera thought that the dark slide was in.) If the shutter won't fire, see if there is anything visibly wrong with it. If so then you may have a problem shutter. If there's nothing wrong with it and if trying new batteries won't help, reach out to the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows more about Mamiya repair than anyone on UA-cam.
@@DavidHancock hey, thanks for this. Yeah the camera fires just fine without the film back on. Definitely didnt have the dark slide in when testing it with the film back. I guess I will have to try getting a new film back. It is so weird because if I take the Auto winder off and reatach it sometimes that allows the shutter to fire
Also, I reattached the film back and it took a photo just fine, but then got "jammed" again after taking that one photo. It just sort of makes a ticking sound when i click the shutter. I really appreciate your help. It has been so hard finding info online.
Good question. That is the auto/manual aperture control switch. A for Auto and M for manual are antiquated terms (as of this camera's age) that go back to the 70s Mamiya (and other M42-mount camera) lenses. For this lens, A is the typical shooting mode you'll use 99% of the time, including when you take photos. M is the depth of field preview button. If you use the meter with the aperture closed in "M", then the meter readings will be WAY over and your images blown out.
Thanks! I have a f1.9, used with iso400 film : in broad daylight it overexposes even at max shutter speed (1000), any clue what to do? Change the film iso to a lower one?@@DavidHancock
I do indeed. That exposure issue makes a lot of sense. In rough terms, in full sun a proper exposure will have a shutter speed that matches your film ISO at f/16. So you were five stops overexposed. In full sun with 400 ISO film, you'd want to be around f/11 at 1/1,000th. To shoot full sun at f/1.9, you need film that's around 6 ISO (which doesn't exist that I know of in 120 format, so you'd be looking at something like an Adox CMS 20 II pulled to 6 ISO, which is doable.) One thing you can do if you want to go for this again, grab an ND filter (something like an ND8 might be enough) and use the light meter in the camera. Then shoot 100 ISO film and that ought to give you the flexibility needed for wide-open in full sun. Then 100 ISO film still allows you to shoot with a bit more range in full sun without limiting you to wide-open shooting.
What I regret is the bad quality in the black superficial paint, that peels off from the motor drive and the viewfinder... Obviously is not the same from the front of the camera body where "MAMIYA 645" letters stands well... Finally you have to memorize the positions of the exposure compensation and motor drive knobs... It's a minor, but annoying fail in production of these almost excellent cameras...
Thanks for the video. Very didactic. I have the Mamiya 645 Pro Tl (like this one ua-cam.com/video/n3-lXwIRXZM/v-deo.html) for 5 months and I still haven't taken any photos. I hope to do it soon. Your video helps me understand how the camera works. I find it difficult to understand how A and AEL modes work. The viewfinder I have is the AE FK402. can you help me? Greetings Gracias por el vídeo. Muy didáctico. Yo tengo la Mamiya 645 Pro Tl ( como esta ua-cam.com/video/n3-lXwIRXZM/v-deo.html ) ya 5 meses y todavía no he hecho ninguna foto. Espero hacerlo pronto. Su vídeo me ayuda a comprender el funcionamiento de la cámara. Me resulta difícil comprender el funcionamiento de los modos A y AEL El visor que tengo es el AE FK402. ¿me puede ayudar? Saludos
I wish I could. I sent this camera back to the owner almost two years ago. If I got one today, I'd have to sit down with it and this video series to re-learn how to operate it.
Thank you for this in depth video. It’s creators like you that ensure film doesn’t die
Thank you!
Thanks very much. It’s amazing how much you can learn in such a small amount of time with right teacher. Great video.
Thank you, Sam!
The port on the hot shoe side of the camera is for a proprietary wired remote...the port on the grip side of the camera is for the ribbon cable to connect a leaf shutter lens so you don't have to reset the lens for each exposure...
Thank you, Dave!
I have owned this camera for years and I learned about multi exposure on this video. Thanks!
Nice and thank you!
I have the super. Just so other's would know it's not necessary to take the entire film back off to load or unload just open back and take out the roll film insert. Good Review! Thanks for sharing!
Nice! And thank you!
Your explanation of The flash sync speed was superb sir
Thank you!
This was super helpful thanks David!
Thank you, Adam!
Your videos are so valuable - thank you so much and keep adding great content to UA-cam!
Extremely helpful!
Thank you!
That was a very very comprehensive review of the Mamiya 645! I have my analog photography vlog too! More power!
Thank you!
This is the best video I watched about the Mamiya 645! Thanks so much!
Thank you!
Thanks, just picked one these up, just what I needed.
Thank you!
Very helpful videos. did you ever find out if the multi exposure needs to be turn off before or after the second photo? thanks!
Thank you and I never did. I had to send this back to the owner before I could play around with double exposures.
Very helpful video! Thank you for being so thorough! 😁
Thank you!
Great video as always. Do you know what is the A / M switch on the lens?
Thank you! That is, IIRC since I sent this camera back to the owner years ago, manual or automatic aperture control.
hello
You don't have to take off the film back to load a film. You simply take out the film cassette (caddy)
if you don't want to switch film in the middle of a roll, Mamiya had spare cassettes in a plastic box that can be preloaded with film and just replace the cassette.
The backs are multiformat 120 and 220, each format has a different type off cassette you have to use for the specific film format. This for the case if 220 format would come back (cinestill is working on it)
Thank you!
6:33 Aren't you pulling the film all the way to the final spool by cranking it like that? What is happening in the camera? I don't understand
From the start of the 120 spool to the start of the film there's about a foot of backing paper. That protects the film before it's used. You need to advance past that to use the film.
@@DavidHancock thank you so much! I always saw people in videos doing it but I never understood why.
That also explains why you need to align the start arrows. So that you know exactly how far it is until the film even begins
@@ngiorgos bingo on the start arrows.
Thank you again, these reviews are perfect.
Thank you!
hi david,
great video. its been helpful. you mention not leaving equipment in a hot car. what are your thoughts on shooting in the heat in general? lets say, in conditions of around 100+ degrees. dry desert heat for about as long as i can handle(probably 20 min) then retreating back to an air conditioned car
thanks!
I think that would be fine because the gear likely won't heat up enough in that time. But if you went on a hike for some hours with lenses in a black camera bag in that heat, that could be an issue. Most camera makers, in their manuals, provide a safe temperature range for the gear. I would think that Mamiya had that information, too, in their lens information sheets.
So to double expose you use the switch after the first shot then turn it back on after the 2nd shot.
That sounds correct, but I sent this camera back to the owner before I uploaded this and I can't recall for sure.
Thank you so much! Its It's very helpful, ¿Do you know what kind of cartridge do I have to use with the Polaroid Back? It only says Mamiya polaroid Japan, Thank you in advance.
Thank you and I do not, but there should be some information online.
@expresspromo
The film used in the Polaroid back for this camera is peel-apart instant pack film, last made by Fujifilm as FP-100C (color, discontinued in 2016) and FP-3000B (B&W, discontinued in 2014).
So, unfortunately you can only get expired film, for a very high price ($80 per 10 picture cartridge), so not really worth it.
Tips for a smoother focus ring? Mine turns with much more effort than it should take. Not smoother and definitely not loose
Hmm. Does it get easier to turn if you move it in and out of focus repeatedly and then return to being harder to turn after sitting a bit?
It pretty much says pretty firm even after going back in forth. It’s turntable but definitely not easy while I’m handholding (I don’t have the grip, I use the Manuel winder so it’s more awkward to hold).
@@elizabethlee6077 This is one I'd run past the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows Mamiya better than anyone on UA-cam. Could just be gummy grease, but that should get easier with use for a short period before refirming.
Thanks David!
Really was a major help. Thank you.
Thank you!
hi! great video! great channel! thanks for this tutorial. i wanted to ask if you know why my mamiya is not shooting! i checkd batterys, the dark slide is out. i took some photos, i`m in the number 6 actually, but now the camara dosen't allow me to take the next one! what could it be? thanks :)
Hmm. It's been some years since I sent this camera back to the owner, so I don't recall exactly what could cause that. I'd start with reinserting the dark slide and removing the film holder to ensure that the shutter is closed and that everything is operating normally. If it is, then there's something with the film or film holder. If not, then it should be pretty apparent. The Fix Old Cameras channel may have some insight, too, as he knows more about Mamiya than anyone else I'm aware of.
@@DavidHancock thank you very much for your help!
@@DavidHancock thenks!! very usefull
That is such a cool looking camera
I concur. :D
Hi thanks for posting this video. Do you know if the camera should fire without film in the back? My camera doesn't shoot without film in but im trying to work out if my camera has a fault with the shutter button.
I don't recall this one firing without film.
One can fire shutter… dark slide is NOT protecting film, turn on Multi Exposure switch then one can fire camera as much as you want
Can you please explain the 645 Pro tl A and AEL settings. I am new to this camera and settings
Oh gosh, it's been almost two years since I sent this camera back to the owner. honestly, if I got one of these again, I'd have to sit down and watch this video to re-learn how to use the camera.
According to the manual to use the AE… the lens slider switch needs to be in “A” , chose your aperature and camera determines shutter speed. “AEL”, is just what you’d expect it locks the exposure so you don’t have to half press the shutter while fiddling with the compensation dial or recomposing the shot
Great video. David! I think you can help me. I decided yesterday I must own this camera. My last question is about alternating from landscape to portrait orientation while on a tripod. No rotating back, is there an L bracket or mechanism to do the job? How does this work out with the prism finder? Thank you! You've made videos on all the cameras, haven't you? Whenever I discover a new one, you've done a video for it. It's incredible.
Thank you! I've got a back catalog of around 300 video manuals (estimated, I've never really counted.) So there are still a lot to do (I'm aiming for 100 this year.) For this camera, yes, I believe you need a three-way head to go to landscape, but I returned this to the owner about 18 months ago and my memory of it is a bit foggy.
That's really awesome you get to handle basically every camera. It's a lot of work, I'm sure, but you sound like you're enjoying yourself. I ordered one! I'll be scratching a compositional guide into the focussing screen for this camera too, like I just commented about on your LX video. Will your answer be the same? Thanks!!
So amazingly helpful!!! Thank you so much!!
Thank you!
Mine had been sitting for 10yrs, was trying to get it to work, realized the dark slide has an interlock and has to be out before it will work. Just a tip for others. Thanks
Thank you!
Hey David! Great video, super helpful. I am having an issue though. I just purchased my first Mamiya 645 camera. I got the pro version supposedly with the FE401 AE Finder. I can't seem to figure out how to get the information to show up in the view finder. Did I get a bad version of a finder possibly? Would appreciate any help. Also when looking through my finder and top view I have a grid and more of crosshair look. You do not. Do you know why this might be the case? Thanks!
Okay so I have got the info to come up in the finder when I press the batter check button. I have a feeling I am doing something wrong... maybe not turning the camera on? lol would love any help! thanks again!
I'm now thinking the information only pops up when you press the B.C. button. Is this the case so you save battery? Thanks! Sorry for the spam ha
Haha nevermind, I just realized when I went to take my first photo the info pops up when you half press the shutter button. Thanks again though! Loved this series. Makes me way more confident using this new camera!
Thank you!
It sounds like you have a different focusing screen than this camera did. There would have been a grid focusing screen for sure for these. Personally, I like grid screens the best and find them to be the most useful.
Thank you!
If you're now is It best to have all your settings to auto, like Auto A-S and A?
When I had this I kept it in Auto A-S the majority of the time.
@@DavidHancock Got it, thank you David, your video has been extremely helpful!
How do you use it for long exposures? Thank you.
With the shutter speed at bulb.
Does the shutter works if there is no film loaded? Like does the curtains open? I tried pressing the shutter without film, film slider removed and on A mode, it does not do anything. I am using the waist level finder. Thanks
I don't recall for sure. I don't think so. Pick up a roll of expired 120 or some GP3, which is the cheapest 120 film I think, and see if it behaves differently. I sent this camera back to its owner almost a year ago or I'd check for you.
Thanks David. I figured it out. When you use a winder crank (not the motor drive) you have to turn the crank until it stops so you are actually in the correct frame, that’s the only way the shutter will fire. It won’t fire if the frame counter number does not exactly align with the counter “line” or when you don’t wind the crank until it stops. Thanks David.
Turn switch to multi (exposure)
What about 160iso film on the light meter? Do you set the iso dial to 100, or to one of the two points in between that and 200?
Set it to the dot between 100 and 200 that is nearest 200. The dots are 1/3-stop increments. Going from 100 to 200 they're 100, 125, 160, and 200.
@@DavidHancock Thanks so much! I was wondering what the increments were, that helps me out a lot
TLDR: the first three 1/3-stops are 100, 125, 160. To take anything after that, double them or half them
If you have a scientific calculator (check your phone) you can do the following
First we need to know that log(2)=0.301...
This means that whenever we increase the power of 10 by about 0.3, we double the iso. For example
100=10^2
200=10^2.3
400=10^2.6
800=10^2.9 etc
If instead you incease the power of 10 by 0.1 each time, you get the 1/3-stops
10^2.1=125
10^2.2=160
Bear in mind that the approximation log(2)=0.3 is essentially the same as 2^10=1000
Great tutorial! Thank you!
Thank you!
my light meter keeps flashing over. Do you have any idea why this could be happening?
I'm not sure. Can you give a few more details on the behavior?
What happens if LT is blinking? And there’s no shutter speed lighting up
That indicates there is not enough light for a proper exposure.
@@DavidHancock thank you and while I was shooting old film the viewfinder went dark and when I try taking a picture I would hear a click and it won’t take a picture
OK, I'll start out with the obvious.... these 2 videos should be provided with all 645's sold. With sales of film cameras actually getting pretty heavy these days, it is beyond arguing that these two videos are TOTALLY critical info for someone just buying one of these great cameras. NOW Mr Hancock, here is part 2: do you have a place that you can recommend for 645 repair if it is needed? The only guy I know that does repairs is in the Philippines so that's pretty much out of the picture (so to speak). Keep on clickin !!!
Thank you and I might have a lead. Ask the Fix Old Cameras channel guy (Mike). He knows more about Mamiya then anyone on UA-cam.
Hi David, I am hoping you can help me. I have searched everywhere to no avail. I was excited to shoot with my 645 pro today. I loaded the film properly and took my first pic. No problem. But the film didnt advance and the advance function locked up, it never moved to the second frame. now it is stuck on the 1st frame and the shutter wont fire. I dont have it on multi mode either. Any advise would be awesome! thanks.
Firstly take the film back off and see if there's anything visibly wrong with the shutter. Also see if it will fire without the film back.
If the camera will fire without the film back then the issue has to do with the film back (either the dark slide was in, the film wasn't advancing due it being loaded in some way that the camera didn't like, or the camera thought that the dark slide was in.)
If the shutter won't fire, see if there is anything visibly wrong with it. If so then you may have a problem shutter.
If there's nothing wrong with it and if trying new batteries won't help, reach out to the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows more about Mamiya repair than anyone on UA-cam.
@@DavidHancock hey, thanks for this. Yeah the camera fires just fine without the film back on. Definitely didnt have the dark slide in when testing it with the film back. I guess I will have to try getting a new film back. It is so weird because if I take the Auto winder off and reatach it sometimes that allows the shutter to fire
Also, I reattached the film back and it took a photo just fine, but then got "jammed" again after taking that one photo. It just sort of makes a ticking sound when i click the shutter. I really appreciate your help. It has been so hard finding info online.
hello! how are you? The same thing happened to me with my camera! were you able to solve it? what was the solution? thank you!
what about the A/M switch on the lens ?
Good question. That is the auto/manual aperture control switch. A for Auto and M for manual are antiquated terms (as of this camera's age) that go back to the 70s Mamiya (and other M42-mount camera) lenses. For this lens, A is the typical shooting mode you'll use 99% of the time, including when you take photos. M is the depth of field preview button. If you use the meter with the aperture closed in "M", then the meter readings will be WAY over and your images blown out.
Thanks! I have a f1.9, used with iso400 film : in broad daylight it overexposes even at max shutter speed (1000), any clue what to do? Change the film iso to a lower one?@@DavidHancock
I do indeed. That exposure issue makes a lot of sense. In rough terms, in full sun a proper exposure will have a shutter speed that matches your film ISO at f/16. So you were five stops overexposed. In full sun with 400 ISO film, you'd want to be around f/11 at 1/1,000th. To shoot full sun at f/1.9, you need film that's around 6 ISO (which doesn't exist that I know of in 120 format, so you'd be looking at something like an Adox CMS 20 II pulled to 6 ISO, which is doable.) One thing you can do if you want to go for this again, grab an ND filter (something like an ND8 might be enough) and use the light meter in the camera. Then shoot 100 ISO film and that ought to give you the flexibility needed for wide-open in full sun. Then 100 ISO film still allows you to shoot with a bit more range in full sun without limiting you to wide-open shooting.
How diffrent is the 645 e vs 645 pro ???
I honestly couldn't tell you because I haven't used the E.
Great video, thanks a lot!
Thank you!
How to unload film when i finish shooting?
That should be in this video, but you just remove the caddy, take it the film, seal it, and reload.
🤞 😎 👍 Love your tutorials! Very good instructional video. Thank you very much for the same
Thank you!
Thanks if for this!
Thank you!
All Japanese 645 camera's make 15 negativ's / slides on a 120 film . Peter .
Thank you! That explains a lot about why I was only getting 15 shots per roll last weekend.
With the exception of Bronica RF645 :-)
USA A COIN for the battery cover !!
Ideally, yes.
What I regret is the bad quality in the black superficial paint, that peels off from the motor drive and the viewfinder... Obviously is not the same from the front of the camera body where "MAMIYA 645" letters stands well... Finally you have to memorize the positions of the exposure compensation and motor drive knobs... It's a minor, but annoying fail in production of these almost excellent cameras...
I found the interface to be a bit tough to learn, too. I suspect that, once second-nature, it would be great, however.
Thank you :)
Thank you!
Subscribed
Thank you!
WHO THE HELL DISLIKED THIS??🤦🏽♂️ there’s always one…
There's always one. :D
When you intentionally loaded the film wrong, it was very cringe-worthy. In my mind, I was screaming "NOOOO!".
Sometimes people learn best when they see what not to do.
Thanks for the video. Very didactic. I have the Mamiya 645 Pro Tl (like this one ua-cam.com/video/n3-lXwIRXZM/v-deo.html) for 5 months and I still haven't taken any photos. I hope to do it soon. Your video helps me understand how the camera works. I find it difficult to understand how A and AEL modes work. The viewfinder I have is the AE FK402. can you help me? Greetings
Gracias por el vídeo. Muy didáctico. Yo tengo la Mamiya 645 Pro Tl ( como esta ua-cam.com/video/n3-lXwIRXZM/v-deo.html ) ya 5 meses y todavía no he hecho ninguna foto. Espero hacerlo pronto. Su vídeo me ayuda a comprender el funcionamiento de la cámara. Me resulta difícil comprender el funcionamiento de los modos A y AEL El visor que tengo es el AE FK402. ¿me puede ayudar? Saludos
I wish I could. I sent this camera back to the owner almost two years ago. If I got one today, I'd have to sit down with it and this video series to re-learn how to operate it.