@9:40 If your socket is missing the rubber insert or won't retain the plug for some other reason, an alternative is to use a piece of rubber/vinyl tubing over the end of the plug to get it in place and start engaging the threads.
I was mechanical-phobic until age 50 and until I got a free 2003 Saturn Ion 2.2. Then I had to learn on youtube how to fix it to get it running. I had a dream or an epiphany how to fix ignition module ( I'm serious!). I went to juckyard and a guy sold me a big thing that goes over the spark plugs (40 off a Pontiac, he told me $40) and is plugged in to some kind of cluster. I bought new plugs and coils ( inside spark plug wires), and it runs perfectly. It took me nearly a yesr, but I've had it for 15 years and its been my daily driver for 14 years!!! Mechanical fixes by mechanic: ECM, brass Windsheild Wiper Transmission, ignition switch, other. Over 15 years it's cost me $100/yr. well worth a free car IMO. I love it!!!
Yep! I have been using anti-seize on spark plugs for many years with NO issues! It amazes me that people think this is a bad idea especially (all aluminum engines and dissimilar metals). I also use Dielectric Grease on ALL electrical connections (no corrosion). Love the channel BTW!!!
You know, it just never occurred to me to do so and I have nothing against it, but some plugs do have a coating on them already. If I do use it in the future, it will be just a dab, like Kenny. Doing the electrical like you do is a great idea, I kept looking at Kenny's alternator connection, rusted. I don't know if that van came from the rust belt or what, but it is rusting in places that seem unusual. I knew an old guy that greased his battery terminals. He said it was a mess to work with but never had a corrosion problem again.
Yeah, the tapered seat plugs I do not like at all... Even Kenny doesn't like that design@@jthonn I didn't know that tapered seat was also on some Mopar vehicles; have my first Ford engine 4.6L 2v and I'm not looking forward to the plug maintenance They're from NY so it may have migrated from that area
@@ricebike Well, try now and see if they will come out. There is such an issue with them that you get plug removal kits for some engines, and they are needed if the plug breaks off inside. Change early, and put the new ones in with some anti seize. The only plugs I have seen coming with a coating are some specialist ones, the vast majority just come with the standard steel finish and a coating of oil from the factory, thin, to keep it from corroding in the box.
The last shop I worked at (retired) had a tin that looked like it came out of the FORD factory with the first model "T" & it was still half full of what we copper grease (tin was about 3-4 " high & about 2-3" wide no label all banged up.)
Excellent video, Kenny. A dab of Antiseize and Dielectric, you'll never have an issue. John Force chief tech told me that indexing the plugs is the most important thing. TRY IT, you'll be amazed 👏
My main concern with these plug gaps would be none other than a very excessive gap over time and with high miles incurred, that leads to a coil getting overworked and overheated to the point of coil failure! Fords are notorious for that and the coils can get mighty expensive!! And so with the changing of spark plugs at the 80K miles mark, could be a very good idea to do so just so that you are not damaging coils as in 20k miles early! This makes some very good sense to me!!
I'm O.K with a slightly narrower gap, but a wider gap will shorten the service life. With plugs that break these days, I want the longest life possible.
I always gap plugs at the small end of the spec because the gap grows as the electrodes wear. Also I try to keep the anti-seize away from the electrode end of the threads by a couple threads, you don't want that stuff in the combustion chamber because it can foul sensors and/or the catalytic converter.
Another perfect advertisement as to why you should not have a large engine in the transverse position.Cheers.Also I always put plug leads on when I change my plugs.(If the plugs are worn stands to reason the leads are too.)
Just changed the plugs and wires in my Yukon. They call for .065 gap. The ones I pulled were at 85. The iridium tips were not even there anymore. Still ran pretty good too.
The bigger the gap, the higher the voltage. The higher the voltage, the higher the load on the coil. SOME systems aren't tolerant enough to withstand temp extremes and extra load. (shows up on a scope secondary ignition)
Hi Kenny always enjoy your videos, i have been a mechanic for over 49 years I use anti seize on the sparkplug threads especially the last 20 years as a lot of vehicles use platinum and now also iridium plugs which are replaced after 100,000 km some even at 150,000km these plugs last so much longer than older plugs that used to be replaced every 24,000km, one thing I noticed that you don’t use a uni joint on the sparkplug socket my sparkplug sockets have a uni joint build into them and some times if you get a tight plug it will stop the plug from breaking the porcelain top, keep up. The good work Kenny all the best from Western Australia perth
I agree it doesn't affect horsepower but excessive gaps can prematurely kill a coil or the output of the PCM. I gap my Iridium plugs as close to exact as they will be in the car 100k miles. The gaps will widen as the miles accumulates. On some cars plug replacement is labor. intensive . So buy quality plugs and gap them correctly for a long life without issues.
in the old days of using a scope you wanted gaps as even as possible. you were adjusting a carb and it was easiest to watch the firing lines. with fuel injection its really not necessary
I started using anti-seize on spark plugs when a Toyota TSB came out on the 2.7 in 2007 advising to remove the plugs at the first service and apply anti-seize to the threads to prevent the plugs from seizing in the head. After this, I noticed that OEM type plugs came with a silver paint on the threads.
I definitely will. Mrs Wrenching isn't driving at all right now. The exhaust leak is officially at the back of my to-do list. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Hey Kenny!👋 At 14:28 Oh Yes, we can hear the dog barking. Probably barking at his own bark Echo! "Stupid Dog" ( Like the way the old man in Courage the Cowardly Dog cartoon would say!)😁 A little anti-seize can do wonders with negligible danger of carbon tracking. Especially into aluminum heads without inserts, which is just Wrong!🤨 An FYI for stashing in your memory banks. Never, Ever put a Stainless Steel NPT fitting into, or onto aluminum, Especially, Dry. You will likely Never get it apart again. Cold welds together and will tear the aluminum threads out! Found this out after assembling a High Pressure, Heated Hydrogen test fixture, per the "Engineer's 🙄" instructions (No sealer, lubricant or anti-seize allowed )! Went to disassemble for modification and disemboweled the aluminum valve block!😬😁 Engineer = "Dumbass" (Said like Red Forman of That '70s Show!)😁 Mike in San Diego.🌞🎸🚀🖖
Check resistance on that new miss-firing plug, as I recently had a new set of 6 from RockAuto that failed way too high for AC Delco iridiums & they were likely clones. New ones from the parts store, of the same AC part number, ohmed out just fine & ran fine.
I learned the hard way that Champion plugs are junk, useless junk. I was working away from home, and wanted to give the car a quick sparkplug change. All the motor factor had was Champion plugs, there was probably a reason he had plenty, I soon realised. I took out the old plug, fine. and put in the Champions. The first plug was in hand tight and then gave it a eighth turn, not tight, just enough to seat it, and it bloke.! It broke at the top of the thread. Luckily I had a wide blade screwdriver, I was able to jam it in the inside of the plug and bring it back out. Lesson learned ALWAYS use NGK plugs for that application, NEVER use junk Champion.
Hello Kenny 👋, I always learn something watching your channel. I learned that the one style gapper and how it works. The most important thing I learned was I don't want a front wheel drive vehicle. 😅
Nice job Kenny. Some vehicles getting to the back plugs can be a real bear. The ones you have to pull the intake off, don't get me started. The old plugs were so rusted, wondering why. I remember the days we would change plugs every 30k miles, points and condenser too. Cap and wires if needed. I need to stop the dreaming about the old days. Keep wrenching!
His caravan was still on the older side... I don't like coil over plug because the connector from the wiring harness to the coil are prone to becoming brittle as little as 5 years 😢
Old spark plugs fishermen here by me use them as sinkers, as they pull nicely through marine growth, and are free, plus are environmentally friendly, though mostly because they are low cost, especially if you have a neighbour or cousin who is a mechanic, and has access to tons of old ones for free at work.
@@WrenchingWithKennyLead free, and free as well. Lots of fishermen here are sustenance fishermen, so spark plugs are going to be used as they are free. However, if the police find you in possession of a spark plug, especially a broken one, and with no fishing gear to go with it, you are going to be arrested for suspected breaking and entering, as this is also the favourite method used to break windows of cars to steal from them. Possession of burglary tools.
K if the ground electrode on a new plug looks at right angle to the center electrode I go with it as correctly gapped. No measurement needed and no risk of messing up the plug.
A few years ago i had to change the plugs on a 3.3 V6 Chrysler Voyager. Couln’t for the life of me get to the plugs towards the bulkhead/firewall from the engine bay. Had to do it from underneath the car with a 3 or 4 foot long extension and swivel joint. Even then it was just about possible to get to the plugs. It was sure tight for space up there. Could just about see the plug cables..
I have a van like your but a 3.3 engine had a misfire on cylinder 2 after so diagnostics I pulled the coil and that epoxy right on number 2 coil had a crack on it causing it to short out the coil pack was only 3yrs old but it get really hot in Texas in summer time.
Nicely done brother Kenny. I have to use 'sticky' notes to remind me to do something. You should put one on the steering wheel of the vehicle you will go to work in: that way you will be reminded to bring one of those scanners back home. At least you're not as old as me! LOL
My brother kenny,it's always a work in progress.what garage in America is ever only a garage for vehicles etc. Fellow Yankee from mass h::::le chusetts Much Love to you and your Honey, wrench on !!!!! Bro. Macka.
Wow, did everything right and end up with a bad brand new part in the box😢 Glad Mopar still has that self trouble code check process with the key cycles 😅
I did a video many years ago where I did various things to see what would happen with secondary ignition waves. One of the things I did was to double the spark plug gap. To my surprise, there was no difference in the firing voltage or spark voltage when I did that. So, yes you'll get enormous voltage spikes with an open plug wire, but even doubling the gap made no difference. This verifies Kenny's thought that the gap doesn't have to be perfect. On the other hand, when the plug gap was really small (1/2 the OEM spec) the firing voltage was indeed too low.
I would get the engine hot just to break the spark plug adherence, then wait until it cooled down the next day and continue to remove the plug when it is cooled down.
Hi from London UK! So I was always told in my training in the 70's not to change plugs hot. Especially in Aluminum heads. Could you explain your reasoning in doing them hot please? Mike
Well, Kenny, we finally have a disagreement and it's about the spark plug scenario. Champions belong in mopars and lawnmowers, autolite-motorcraft belong in Fords and AC's in GM. Nothing else has ever worked for me. Tried NGK's and never had any luck. "Keep Wrenching!" 🤣
Im working on that exact motor. 08 town and country with a cracked thermostat housing. The bolt on the left broke. I been to 2 diff part stores and nothing bout that assembly block that the thermostat housing bolts to. Any idea on the technical name of that coolant block thats mounted below the coil pack?
I been watching the videos on A ticking sound And I check my lifters some where able to move very little so I tighten them but I still have that Ticking sound That gets faster when I raise the Rpm , Anyone know what else it could be
Throw your plugs in there with gaps all over the place then try to figure out why you have a misfire. Plugs are easy to gap with a wire gauge gapping tool. On 4 cyl engines I think it makes a difference.
Okay just watched you remove the back set of spark plugs using the Socket is this not as bad as putting them in with the Socket now please don't go saying one thing and Doing the other and don't use the Excuse its not one of the engines whit the tube type Holes need to practice what you preach Now whilst saying and doing the tube type please tell me how to remove them and put them back in as unless you use a pair of pointy noise players run chance of dropping them cos of the limited space Sorry but I use the socket same as you just did One thing I know my socket is good for this as I check it clean it and make sure the rubber and magnet are good to go Sorry but I caught you out not why I watch your videos I watch them cos I like them I like the way you explain things do things and for the tips N tricks Thanks for making them Big Cheers
kenny i have to disagree with you on a couple issues, the further the gap is open beyond manufacturer spec the more resistance it creates for the coil and i've seen a too wide of gap take out the coils on motorcycles, i also have to believe that with infiniti and nissan cars propensity for burned out coils any extra resistance on the coils will shorten their life and secondly, harbor freight spark plug sockets suck, being the only place in my area to buy individual sockets i've purchased many HF spark plug sockets and in every one of them the rubber insert inside was to large to hold the plug when used in a vertical position which can be a real pain when you are reaching over the top of an engine and the plug keeps falling out of the socket......
@@jthonn oh yeah, I wasn't young enough to play with those mechanical points and carb rebuilds ( I only cleaned up lawnmower carbs) Only seen ignition control modules or distributors as my starting area into DIYer land Back then, they only had copper core plugs, so it was important to change or check/clean them more frequently
Bosch and E3 spark plugs are the worst plugs out there.Have seen misfire issues with these two brands Japanese tool brands Koken and Tone have spark plug sockets with a clip in them that hold the spark plugs in.Removing them,I use my cordless ratchet removing spark plugs once broke loose only.
All spark plugs are gapped at the factory now, no need to gap anymore. I know you old timers think otherwise. It doesn't hurt to check the gap but you will mess up the plug like Kenny said.
Ok me again I had not watched all the video so have to do an other I caught you out again Sorry when you swapped 5 for 6 you did not use the twist and separate method to remove the plug wire you start to then resort to yanking it off sorry Cheers again
Peeps getting all bent out of shape over +/- .01. The average human hair as well as the thickness off a sheet of loose leaf notebook paper is .004. The electrical system won't notice that unless the turbulance in the combustion chamber over powers the the coil discharge amperage. Honestly, if all plugs are gapped the same, send it. Certain areas of an engines combustion chamber are different temps anyway. Lower temps= higher resistance. As far as the copper/aluminum "electrolysis" theory... I make molds for transformer insulators, conductors, connections, switch gears, blah blah. These components are shipped to europe while 'merica gets chinese imported xformers. Aluminum, copper, bronze alloys, carbon steels, as well as other non ferrous metals are all used in conjunction by the top names in electrical transportation. ABB, Mitsubishi, Powell. Just to name a few. I've actually witnessed the silver grade AS turn rock hard after only 300degress on a mold fastenet. Several factors could come into play here. Just use something, and use it correctly. If using a lubricant such as AS on a fastener, rotation torque applied needs to be accounted for. Drop torque spec 30%. Take statef torque spec and multiply by .7 and click 'er down real nice like. Thanks for taking the time to show people first hand what others may be afraid to do. Rust and all, fawk it. You could show us how to remove the front 2x 5/16-18 fasteners on a second gen 5.9l ram. Those homogenize pretty much with the cast block. Even my "experienced" ass at cutting metal by pushing chips struggles here
Here's a fail-safe way to never to cross thread a Spark Plug. Cut a piece of 3/8 Inch Fuel Hose to 6, 8 or 10 Inches in length. Push the Fuel Hose onto the Porcelain end of the Spark Plug and use the hose to rotate the Spark Plug into the cylinder head. I don't drink coffee, but if you'd like to buy me a beer...
I keep an old spark plug boot (just the boot, the wire was removed) for doing just that. Most of the time I just use a spark plug socket, but if I am at a funny angle due to the way the engine is, I will use the boot to start the plugs.
" The gap really doesn't matter"..."Don't drop the spark plug down the tube because you will change the gap and cause a misfire" Both things cannot be true.
"Champion / Mortorcraft". There's your problem! Junk! The US automakers have their parts, plugs, etc. made in China or Mexico to lowest bidder. Spend a dollar more on European or Japanese made plugs.
I run AC Delco in everything in my driveway and professionally. They have never once given me a problem. The only vehicle I own that doesn't use them is my air cooled VW. That gets Bosch plugs because they need the top connector tip unthreaded and removed due to the design of the plug wire where it connects to the plug. The AC Delco plugs I use are now almost $12 each, so I don;t think I'm being cheap. I have seen the way some of the parts guys handle those plugs, especially when the customer only needs six and they have to take two plugs out of a box of four. Unfortunately, they often get dropped. I'm guessing that is what happened to Kenny, Keep wrenching!
Ok let’s call mopar “NGK” boxed as mopar and sold over the back parts counter. If your are a real mechanic you know the tsb from Chrysler that states, replacement with Champion or NGK spark plugs, ignition wire set and re flash Powertrain control module with the new software for Mis-fire detection…
@9:40 If your socket is missing the rubber insert or won't retain the plug for some other reason, an alternative is to use a piece of rubber/vinyl tubing over the end of the plug to get it in place and start engaging the threads.
I do get a lot out of your videos. Been a motor head all my life yet still learn something daily at 69 years old. Thanks
Same here, he has taught this old dog some new tricks.
A lot of things are the same, a lot of things are different.
A lot of things are the same while different.
I was mechanical-phobic until age 50 and until I got a free 2003 Saturn Ion 2.2. Then I had to learn on youtube how to fix it to get it running. I had a dream or an epiphany how to fix ignition module ( I'm serious!). I went to juckyard and a guy sold me a big thing that goes over the spark plugs (40 off a Pontiac, he told me $40) and is plugged in to some kind of cluster. I bought new plugs and coils ( inside spark plug wires), and it runs perfectly. It took me nearly a yesr, but I've had it for 15 years and its been my daily driver for 14 years!!!
Mechanical fixes by mechanic: ECM, brass Windsheild Wiper Transmission, ignition switch, other. Over 15 years it's cost me $100/yr. well worth a free car IMO. I love it!!!
Yep! I have been using anti-seize on spark plugs for many years with NO issues!
It amazes me that people think this is a bad idea especially (all aluminum engines and dissimilar metals).
I also use Dielectric Grease on ALL electrical connections (no corrosion).
Love the channel BTW!!!
Thank you so much for your kind words. I appreciate you. Keep wrenching 🔧
You know, it just never occurred to me to do so and I have nothing against it, but some plugs do have a coating on them already. If I do use it in the future, it will be just a dab, like Kenny. Doing the electrical like you do is a great idea, I kept looking at Kenny's alternator connection, rusted. I don't know if that van came from the rust belt or what, but it is rusting in places that seem unusual. I knew an old guy that greased his battery terminals. He said it was a mess to work with but never had a corrosion problem again.
Yeah, the tapered seat plugs I do not like at all... Even Kenny doesn't like that design@@jthonn
I didn't know that tapered seat was also on some Mopar vehicles; have my first Ford engine 4.6L 2v and I'm not looking forward to the plug maintenance
They're from NY so it may have migrated from that area
@@ricebike Well, try now and see if they will come out. There is such an issue with them that you get plug removal kits for some engines, and they are needed if the plug breaks off inside. Change early, and put the new ones in with some anti seize. The only plugs I have seen coming with a coating are some specialist ones, the vast majority just come with the standard steel finish and a coating of oil from the factory, thin, to keep it from corroding in the box.
The last shop I worked at (retired) had a tin that looked like it came out of the FORD factory with the first model "T" & it was still half full of what we copper grease (tin was about 3-4 " high & about 2-3" wide no label all banged up.)
Got a friend,who gaps,and indexes all of his plugs!
Excellent video, Kenny. A dab of Antiseize and Dielectric, you'll never have an issue. John Force chief tech told me that indexing the plugs is the most important thing. TRY IT, you'll be amazed 👏
My main concern with these plug gaps would be none other than a very excessive gap over time and with high miles
incurred, that leads to a coil getting overworked and overheated to the point of coil failure! Fords are notorious for that
and the coils can get mighty expensive!! And so with the changing of spark plugs at the 80K miles mark, could be a
very good idea to do so just so that you are not damaging coils as in 20k miles early! This makes some very good sense
to me!!
Seeing a few comments stating that... Soooooo err to the side of the lower spec for gaps
GREAT TIMING! I am currently out in the driveway doing plugs, cap, rotor, on a 1995 F250 4x4 I just bought. THANKS!
That's great. Enjoy your day. Keep wrenching 🔧
I'm O.K with a slightly narrower gap, but a wider gap will shorten the service life. With plugs that break these days, I want the longest life possible.
I always gap plugs at the small end of the spec because the gap grows as the electrodes wear. Also I try to keep the anti-seize away from the electrode end of the threads by a couple threads, you don't want that stuff in the combustion chamber because it can foul sensors and/or the catalytic converter.
Thanks for the reminder about keeping the anti seize on the southside. Keep wrenching 🔧
Yeah, never- seize is good for the right applications ( plugs would be a good one ) just keep from getting it all over.
You can pour a little WD-4O in your anti-seize and mix it up to make it flow again when it gets old and thick like that. Works great.
Oh, neat hack... I just use motor oil
Hello Mr Kenny, hope y'all had a great weekend. Good to hear from you,thank you for the tip
Hi Bobby! I hope you are well. Keep wrenching 🔧
Old spark plugs make for great weights for fishing lines 😊
I just heard that from another viewer. I will definitely try it this summer. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
I do all my fishing at Costco.
Another perfect advertisement as to why you should not have a large engine in the transverse position.Cheers.Also I always put plug leads on when I change my plugs.(If the plugs are worn stands to reason the leads are too.)
Just changed the plugs and wires in my Yukon. They call for .065 gap. The ones I pulled were at 85. The iridium tips were not even there anymore. Still ran pretty good too.
Thanks for sharing! Keep wrenching 🔧
I always use a smudge of anti seize lubricant on spark plug installation. Not too much, just like Kenny did it.
The bigger the gap, the higher the voltage. The higher the voltage, the higher the load on the coil. SOME systems aren't tolerant enough to withstand temp extremes and extra load. (shows up on a scope secondary ignition)
It was the plug gapping tool in the links.
When I was first introduced to copper coat fifty years ago, I was also given the lecture, use it very sparingly.
What happens is the gap increases making the coils to work harder which can kill a coil or coils ! Stay with the minimum gap spec always !
Hi Kenny always enjoy your videos, i have been a mechanic for over 49 years I use anti seize on the sparkplug threads especially the last 20 years as a lot of vehicles use platinum and now also iridium plugs which are replaced after 100,000 km some even at 150,000km these plugs last so much longer than older plugs that used to be replaced every 24,000km, one thing I noticed that you don’t use a uni joint on the sparkplug socket my sparkplug sockets have a uni joint build into them and some times if you get a tight plug it will stop the plug from breaking the porcelain top, keep up. The good work Kenny all the best from Western Australia perth
Yeah mine is the same NSW northern Rivers area.
I agree it doesn't affect horsepower but excessive gaps can prematurely kill a coil or the output of the PCM. I gap my Iridium plugs as close to exact as they will be in the car 100k miles. The gaps will widen as the miles accumulates. On some cars plug replacement is labor. intensive . So buy quality plugs and gap them correctly for a long life without issues.
Well done thanks for sharing
Cheers from Nova Scotia
in the old days of using a scope you wanted gaps as even as possible. you were adjusting a carb and it was easiest to watch the firing lines. with fuel injection its really not necessary
I started using anti-seize on spark plugs when a Toyota TSB came out on the 2.7 in 2007 advising to remove the plugs at the first service and apply anti-seize to the threads to prevent the plugs from seizing in the head. After this, I noticed that OEM type plugs came with a silver paint on the threads.
Thanks for your reply. As you can see viewers don't agree about putting anti-seize on plugs. Keep wrenching 🔧
I always do those engines rear plugs on a rack when possible and I use a peace of vacuum hose to start plugs at times.
You should definitely do a video on the exhaust leak.
I definitely will. Mrs Wrenching isn't driving at all right now. The exhaust leak is officially at the back of my to-do list. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Hey Kenny!👋
At 14:28
Oh Yes, we can hear the dog barking. Probably barking at his own bark Echo!
"Stupid Dog" ( Like the way the old man in Courage the Cowardly Dog cartoon would say!)😁
A little anti-seize can do wonders with negligible danger of carbon tracking. Especially into aluminum heads without inserts, which is just Wrong!🤨
An FYI for stashing in your memory banks. Never, Ever put a Stainless Steel NPT fitting into, or onto aluminum, Especially, Dry. You will likely Never get it apart again. Cold welds together and will tear the aluminum threads out!
Found this out after assembling a High Pressure, Heated Hydrogen test fixture, per the "Engineer's 🙄" instructions (No sealer, lubricant or anti-seize allowed )!
Went to disassemble for modification and disemboweled the aluminum valve block!😬😁
Engineer = "Dumbass" (Said like Red Forman of That '70s Show!)😁
Mike in San Diego.🌞🎸🚀🖖
Hey Mike! Thanks for sharing your tech tip!!! Wow, that must have a crap day. Keep wrenching 🔧
Check resistance on that new miss-firing plug, as I recently had a new set of 6 from RockAuto that failed way too high for AC Delco iridiums & they were likely clones. New ones from the parts store, of the same AC part number, ohmed out just fine & ran fine.
I suspect a bad resistor in the plug. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
I learned the hard way that Champion plugs are junk, useless junk. I was working away from home, and wanted to give the car a quick sparkplug change.
All the motor factor had was Champion plugs, there was probably a reason he had plenty, I soon realised.
I took out the old plug, fine. and put in the Champions. The first plug was in hand tight and then gave it a eighth turn, not tight, just enough to seat it, and it bloke.!
It broke at the top of the thread. Luckily I had a wide blade screwdriver, I was able to jam it in the inside of the plug and bring it back out.
Lesson learned ALWAYS use NGK plugs for that application, NEVER use junk Champion.
I see red boxes on the cowl... Motorcraft?
Hello Kenny 👋, I always learn something watching your channel. I learned that the one style gapper and how it works. The most important thing I learned was I don't want a front wheel drive vehicle. 😅
Nice job Kenny. Some vehicles getting to the back plugs can be a real bear. The ones you have to pull the intake off, don't get me started. The old plugs were so rusted, wondering why. I remember the days we would change plugs every 30k miles, points and condenser too. Cap and wires if needed. I need to stop the dreaming about the old days. Keep wrenching!
His caravan was still on the older side... I don't like coil over plug because the connector from the wiring harness to the coil are prone to becoming brittle as little as 5 years 😢
Old spark plugs fishermen here by me use them as sinkers, as they pull nicely through marine growth, and are free, plus are environmentally friendly, though mostly because they are low cost, especially if you have a neighbour or cousin who is a mechanic, and has access to tons of old ones for free at work.
Interesting! I never thought of using an old spark plug as a sinker. Thanks for the tip. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKennyLead free, and free as well. Lots of fishermen here are sustenance fishermen, so spark plugs are going to be used as they are free. However, if the police find you in possession of a spark plug, especially a broken one, and with no fishing gear to go with it, you are going to be arrested for suspected breaking and entering, as this is also the favourite method used to break windows of cars to steal from them. Possession of burglary tools.
The miss from that anti-seize 😂😂😂
K if the ground electrode on a new plug looks at right angle to the center electrode I go with it as correctly gapped. No measurement needed and no risk of messing up the plug.
A few years ago i had to change the plugs on a 3.3 V6 Chrysler Voyager. Couln’t for the life of me get to the plugs towards the bulkhead/firewall from the engine bay. Had to do it from underneath the car with a 3 or 4 foot long extension and swivel joint. Even then it was just about possible to get to the plugs. It was sure tight for space up there. Could just about see the plug cables..
It happens, thanks for sharing!
Great video it just goes to show you that shit happens you have to learn to just go with it.
I have a 2010 with a 3.8 and my exhaust leak was at the flex pipe on catalytic converter
I have a van like your but a 3.3 engine had a misfire on cylinder 2 after so diagnostics I pulled the coil and that epoxy right on number 2 coil had a crack on it causing it to short out the coil pack was only 3yrs old but it get really hot in Texas in summer time.
I just installed a set of Denso Iridium spark plugs and I never check the gaps and they always worked just fine.
Nicely done brother Kenny. I have to use 'sticky' notes to remind me to do something. You should put one on the steering wheel of the vehicle you will go to work in: that way you will be reminded to bring one of those scanners back home. At least you're not as old as me! LOL
My brother kenny,it's always a work in progress.what garage in America is ever only a garage for vehicles etc. Fellow Yankee from mass h::::le chusetts Much Love to you and your Honey, wrench on !!!!! Bro. Macka.
Wow, did everything right and end up with a bad brand new part in the box😢
Glad Mopar still has that self trouble code check process with the key cycles 😅
Good information. Thank you.
Kenny that dog barking would drive me absolutely bananas
Also I've heard of fisherman using old plugs as weights.
I love my four dogs. They don’t bark incessantly.
@@Michael-yi4mc those yours barking in the background?
@@philspear73 👍Like you can hear my dog from Hawaii.
What kind of stress happens on a coil when the gap widens? I'd be curious to see the kv differences as the gap increases.
I did a video many years ago where I did various things to see what would happen with secondary ignition waves. One of the things I did was to double the spark plug gap. To my surprise, there was no difference in the firing voltage or spark voltage when I did that. So, yes you'll get enormous voltage spikes with an open plug wire, but even doubling the gap made no difference. This verifies Kenny's thought that the gap doesn't have to be perfect. On the other hand, when the plug gap was really small (1/2 the OEM spec) the firing voltage was indeed too low.
Kenny what about aluminum heads ?? cold right ?? changeing the plugs ??
He noted if one has a tapered seat spark plug, to do it warm...
The other style with a washer, I do it cold
when people give unrequested advice I reply "Cool, you do you and I will do me"
💯 I just roll on by. Keep wrenching 🔧
"Stay in your lane, bro"
"Stay in your lane, bro".
I would get the engine hot just to break the spark plug adherence, then wait until it cooled down the next day and continue to remove the plug when it is cooled down.
Hey kenny is light harbor freight .which scanner do like best
Hi from London UK! So I was always told in my training in the 70's not to change plugs hot. Especially in Aluminum heads. Could you explain your reasoning in doing them hot please?
Mike
I have been putting anti seiz on my plugs for yrs and never had a problem.
Well, Kenny, we finally have a disagreement and it's about the spark plug scenario. Champions belong in mopars and lawnmowers, autolite-motorcraft belong in Fords and AC's in GM. Nothing else has ever worked for me. Tried NGK's and never had any luck. "Keep Wrenching!" 🤣
Doing plugs on a Honda with nearly 262K on it this week Factory plugs Sure hope they call come out ok
I'm more concerned if it has a timing belt... You're way overdue if that's original as well 😢
@@ricebikeHas a chain
Kenny, ever just spray some pb blaster on plug, let sit for a bit then attempt to remove plug?
Assuming you can get anywhwere near it
Im working on that exact motor. 08 town and country with a cracked thermostat housing. The bolt on the left broke. I been to 2 diff part stores and nothing bout that assembly block that the thermostat housing bolts to. Any idea on the technical name of that coolant block thats mounted below the coil pack?
AutoZone spark plug wires carry a lifetime warranty?
It's linked to the phone number you give during checkout
I'm always Leary about removing spark plugs from a hot engine supposedly they are easier to strip the thread.
I been watching the videos on A ticking sound And I check my lifters some where able to move very little so I tighten them but I still have that Ticking sound That gets faster when I raise the Rpm ,
Anyone know what else it could be
Spark plugs comes gaped if u buy the for the proper vehicle. Anti seize & a little dialect grease just in case
💯 Keep wrenching 🔧
Chinesium spark plugs?
Throw your plugs in there with gaps all over the place then try to figure out why you have a misfire. Plugs are easy to gap with a wire gauge gapping tool. On 4 cyl engines I think it makes a difference.
Okay just watched you remove the back set of spark plugs using the Socket is this not as bad as putting them in with the Socket now please don't go saying one thing and Doing the other and don't use the Excuse its not one of the engines whit the tube type Holes need to practice what you preach
Now whilst saying and doing the tube type please tell me how to remove them and put them back in as unless you use a pair of pointy noise players run chance of dropping them cos of the limited space
Sorry but I use the socket same as you just did
One thing I know my socket is good for this as I check it clean it and make sure the rubber and magnet are good to go
Sorry but I caught you out not why I watch your videos I watch them cos I like them I like the way you explain things do things and for the tips N tricks
Thanks for making them Big Cheers
13:43 More room on the floor anyway! 😁
kenny i have to disagree with you on a couple issues, the further the gap is open beyond manufacturer spec the more resistance it creates for the coil and i've seen a too wide of gap take out the coils on motorcycles, i also have to believe that with infiniti and nissan cars propensity for burned out coils any extra resistance on the coils will shorten their life and secondly, harbor freight spark plug sockets suck, being the only place in my area to buy individual sockets i've purchased many HF spark plug sockets and in every one of them the rubber insert inside was to large to hold the plug when used in a vertical position which can be a real pain when you are reaching over the top of an engine and the plug keeps falling out of the socket......
If you member GM was opening the gaps up top .075 .080 to the 80s
@1:14 An internal combustion engine *is* also a motor.... but an electric motor is not an engine.
Thank sir for the information but slow your roll a bit hope you and the misses are doing good
On a.car that had a points distributor it may have made a little more difference?
There are no points distributors with a fuel injection system
Weren't they mated with carburetors?
Those were changed more often.
He said on a car that had points. And no, carburetors made no difference in the plugs.@@ricebike
@@jthonn oh yeah, I wasn't young enough to play with those mechanical points and carb rebuilds
( I only cleaned up lawnmower carbs)
Only seen ignition control modules or distributors as my starting area into DIYer land
Back then, they only had copper core plugs, so it was important to change or check/clean them more frequently
Copper and Aluminum don't get along well (electrolysis). I suggest using the silver anti-sieze in aluminum heads and not the copper stuff.
NGK makes plugs for motor craft
Including for AC Delco and Subaru
Bosch and E3 spark plugs are the worst plugs out there.Have seen misfire issues with these two brands Japanese tool brands Koken and Tone have spark plug sockets with a clip in them that hold the spark plugs in.Removing them,I use my cordless ratchet removing spark plugs once broke loose only.
Who uses the wire and not the boot to remove the plug wires?
I just learn what hole was for old dog new trick i am 70 👍🏻 ( i always use AC OR NGK)
We've had a bad cap, and a bad spark plug wire.
All spark plugs are gapped at the factory now, no need to gap anymore. I know you old timers think otherwise. It doesn't hurt to check the gap but you will mess up the plug like Kenny said.
Ok me again I had not watched all the video so have to do an other I caught you out again Sorry when you swapped 5 for 6 you did not use the twist and separate method to remove the plug wire you start to then resort to yanking it off sorry Cheers again
Peeps getting all bent out of shape over +/- .01. The average human hair as well as the thickness off a sheet of loose leaf notebook paper is
.004. The electrical system won't notice that unless the turbulance in the combustion chamber over powers the the coil discharge amperage. Honestly, if all plugs are gapped the same, send it. Certain areas of an engines combustion chamber are different temps anyway. Lower temps= higher resistance.
As far as the copper/aluminum "electrolysis" theory... I make molds for transformer insulators, conductors, connections, switch gears, blah blah. These components are shipped to europe while 'merica gets chinese imported xformers. Aluminum, copper, bronze alloys, carbon steels, as well as other non ferrous metals are all used in conjunction by the top names in electrical transportation. ABB, Mitsubishi, Powell. Just to name a few. I've actually witnessed the silver grade AS turn rock hard after only 300degress on a mold fastenet. Several factors could come into play here. Just use something, and use it correctly. If using a lubricant such as AS on a fastener, rotation torque applied needs to be accounted for. Drop torque spec 30%. Take statef torque spec and multiply by .7 and click 'er down real nice like.
Thanks for taking the time to show people first hand what others may be afraid to do. Rust and all, fawk it. You could show us how to remove the front 2x 5/16-18 fasteners on a second gen 5.9l ram. Those homogenize pretty much with the cast block. Even my "experienced" ass at cutting metal by pushing chips struggles here
It sure seems like we're getting more new parts these days that are bad!
Here's a fail-safe way to never to cross thread a Spark Plug. Cut a piece of 3/8 Inch Fuel Hose to 6, 8 or 10 Inches in length. Push the Fuel Hose onto the Porcelain end of the Spark Plug and use the hose to rotate the Spark Plug into the cylinder head. I don't drink coffee, but if you'd like to buy me a beer...
I keep an old spark plug boot (just the boot, the wire was removed) for doing just that. Most of the time I just use a spark plug socket, but if I am at a funny angle due to the way the engine is, I will use the boot to start the plugs.
Thank-you for your reply@@paulwindisch1423!
" The gap really doesn't matter"..."Don't drop the spark plug down the tube because you will change the gap and cause a misfire" Both things cannot be true.
"Champion / Mortorcraft". There's your problem! Junk! The US automakers have their parts, plugs, etc. made in China or Mexico to lowest bidder. Spend a dollar more on European or Japanese made plugs.
The original ones lasted 80k miles without a problem. I'm good with that. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
I run AC Delco in everything in my driveway and professionally. They have never once given me a problem. The only vehicle I own that doesn't use them is my air cooled VW. That gets Bosch plugs because they need the top connector tip unthreaded and removed due to the design of the plug wire where it connects to the plug. The AC Delco plugs I use are now almost $12 each, so I don;t think I'm being cheap. I have seen the way some of the parts guys handle those plugs, especially when the customer only needs six and they have to take two plugs out of a box of four. Unfortunately, they often get dropped. I'm guessing that is what happened to Kenny,
Keep wrenching!
Cheap motor craft spark plug, you know better, this engine only uses champion or mopar…..tsb for this problem, plugs and wires replacement tsb
Mopar doesn't have their own plug they recommend champion and they're JUNK
Ok let’s call mopar “NGK” boxed as mopar and sold over the back parts counter. If your are a real mechanic you know the tsb from Chrysler that states, replacement with Champion or NGK spark plugs, ignition wire set and re flash Powertrain control module with the new software for Mis-fire detection…
I don't believe your opinion on gaps not being important! I'm sorry, I'll go with the manufacturers and not the hack mechanics opinions