Varroa Treatment Results (Whoa!)
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- I opened the Russian Hive Left to remove the Mite Away Quick Strips after 7 days and was greeted with quite a sight!
I also removed one box from the hive and condensed brood and honey down to two boxes for winter. I left the excess honey and nectar frames out for open robbing (not sure if that's right) and the bees seemed happy to rob.
The past week has been unseasonably warm so the bees have had great weather to suck down syrup and rearrange their hives for the coming cold.
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Thanks for watching!
I use to put out the buffet. However, I was taught to put the hive back together, with the inner cover, then a blank box, then a box with whatever you want them to rearrange into the main hive. They will draw it down and pack it away.
This discourages robbing. Robbing is not a cool skill to develop
Just passing it along.
Niki Canotas Yes, you stated it much better than I did.
Aahhh... a blank box! I was trying to think of a way to just leave those frames in the hive without them just continuing to fill them with nectar. Awesome idea. This is a great answer! My education for the day.
Niki Canotas nice tip of the day , I may need to do this too at some point.
Then you remove it in 3-6 days.... Next, how to store the wax frames freezing is best, moth crystals is next
Niki, excellent advice. In summer after extraction it's so important to prevent the robbing. We need to keep the hives tight so bees can't come in through the top.
I want a video-game where you are a bee keeper and you take care of the hives. And all the different bee types can look like little stereotypes, it would be cute.
and the Russian hives occasionally produce T-34s and send them after the italian hives
Welp, those are disappointing replays.
Sort of like the Sims. Good things happen, a ginormous nectar flow and bad things happen, old queen and the wax moth moves in. I like it!
Coming out on steam soon
I just came in from treating my hives-I’m using oxalic acid with a vaporizer. I’m in New Brunswick Canada (right beside northern Maine). It’s a fantastic treatment and pretty much everyone around here uses it. I went to a Bee presentation where Randy Oliver was the key note speaker and it was what he recommended as well. You do it at night and it just needs to be 4 degrees Celsius. I just use the lawn tractor battery and it takes about 5 minutes per hive (two and a half connected to the battery to vaporize and then 2 and a half with it disconnected but still in the hive). Then you can move into the next one (but you have to keep the hive sealed for another 10 minutes after the vaporizer comes out) You do need to repeat it as it doesn’t get into the capped brood but it’s really easy on the bees (and doesn’t get into the comb).
I love your videos-always waiting for the next one to come out!
Hello from Egypt,
I am wondering whether i can use oxalic acid in Egypt right now, knowing that the temperature during the day is around 17.
thanks
Great result! I would have scraped the cappings off and put the box of frames above the crown board for the Russians to move down. Open feeding frames so close to the hives teaches the bees to rob, but an alternative would be to move them away from the hives. I would have been tempted to freeze any decent frames for spring splits. Glad to see the junk frames out ...bet you are too :) Great video as usual, well done!
Thanks for making my morning better! I work a double today so this was a great start!
Adding to some of the other sentiment to move that robbing station well away from the hives - it encourages robbing behavior in the apiary which is difficult to stop once it's started. Even if u think your hives can defend due to reduced entrances it still adds increased stress on them as they are forced to defend that entrance at all costs this late in the year.
I just found this channel, and honestly, it's super entertaining and interesting. I'm thoroughly happy I have another channel with quality content to watch!
Woo hoo. Welcome. Tell some friends!
Great job. I just condensed mine. I have quick strips to put on this week. They are considered organic treatment. I love your robbing station. Glad u got those old frames out. Some chalk brood on bottom board. I had some too this year. I think the bees are just like plants. The weather and season effects them in the same way and each year their health and well being reflects that. Great job!
Thomas Gordon Thanks, man! That chalk brood was junk they were pulling out of the old nuc comb. I kept noticing capped brood on those old frames all summer thinking the queen was laying on them. I think that 'capped brood' was dead mummies and they just finally got to clearing it all out recently. Those nucs were garbage all around.
After three years of research, my first bee packages arrive in less than three weeks! Thanks to you and Garden Fork for the great quality videos!
Best of luck with your bees! Thanks for watching.
The only problem I see with open feeding that close to the hive is that there will be a large bee kill as they compete to reap the reward. Tends to set off fighting and more robbing of the weaker hives when they finish with the frames. Glad the formic acid strips worked out well. If you have any ProDFM you can mix a one tbsp. ProDMF with 3 tbsp. powder sugar and sprinkle over the frame bars dry, they will eat it. (one treatment per hive). It helps the bees get the gut bacteria back in shape after a varroa treatment, or essential oil treatment of any kind. The varroa treatments and oil treatments kill of some of the microbes in the bees gut and weaken them. The ProDFM replaces them and helps them recover faster. No I don't sell the stuff or work for the company. Just try to keep my bees healthy.
Your videos are the absolute best. UA-cam and IG are always on point. Thanks for all the info.
Guy surrounded by a bunch of angry bees: no big deal
Hornet shows up: WOW LOOK OUT!
I would have moved the frames further away from your hives. But I see no problem with letting them clean up the frames.
Loved the robbing station.
Your videos are always great. Ready for winter. FYI, saw another video of a bee keeper that left an old dead hive out for his other bees to rob and he hoped maybe new bees would move in. One year later he had to burn all his hives because they got foulbrood. He guessed that wax moths moved into the dead hive with foulbrood on them. His bees then walking into the old nest, and got the bacteria on them and carried it back to their hives. I guess I'm just saying... be careful how long you let those frames sit out there. You are my inspiration! I cant wait to get started. :)
Scott Robbins They had them clean within a few days. They are out of the bee yard now. Thanks for the kind words!
Nice job. Niki's advice is great.
Brent thank you, you are kind to say that
I'm going into my third year as a bee keeper, with bees from my original colony. I treated with mite away strips and had a lot of success with them. I also seem to be enjoying continued "beginners luck" with my hive as far as the beetles are concerned...very few of those and so far no problems with moths. Right now, with winter upon me, I am glad to have made the styrofoam insulation sleeves like you suggested in another video. I enjoy your videos.
Nice results, glad the queen was alive too. Can't wait to see the results of the Avitar as well.
Do you want to have them robbing in the middle or your hives? Most put the frames away from any hives so they don't robbing around the hives. If they start robbing near hives they may find a weak hive and start robbing it.
Pretty hooked on your videos as my wife and I are taking over iur daughters hives while she's off to college. Reading lots as well as joining our local Bee Keepers club. Thanks
Should have left another box with those honey frames in a box on top for the bees to bring down to to backfill when the brood hatches.
bwakel310 There was no brood in those frames. Just honey and spotty nectar.
Vino Farm You said there was eggs in the frames in the bottom. When those hatch, the honey that you let the bees rob would be backfilled into those spots.
Looks good Jim!!! Nice work
Love the videos. Some of my favorites.
How are things going with the rest of the farm? Any type of harvest updates? Did your fruit trees produce this year or still too young?
MAQS worked for me too, but cold weather forced me to Keep them in for 2 weeks which worked out fine as the strips evaporate slower when cold. About 2,000 dead mites even though not a visible infection before. Would definitely lost the colony over Winter if not treated, now they stand a better chance. Will consolidate Best Frames to Space as you have next sunny day.
The bee what a selfie. Lol
On letting bees rob out unneeded frames: I prefer to do it further from the hives than you did. I believe it reduces the possibility of triggering a strong colony to attack a weak one.
hey absolute amateur here. I just did some research for a project in university and did some digging on pestecide influence on honeybees and its residues in beeswax. So as I understood it, miteaway quick strips are part of the category of organic acid pesticides used for apiculture and it mainly contains formic acid or oxalic acid (which are naturally occouring on honey). There is some research claiming these substances can affect workers longevity aswell as harm the brood. I was wondering if you noticed that on the long run since most tests that are applied before registration of a new pesticide product on the market focus mainly on short term effects.
Also I was wondering if you heard of the method of "brood removal" in order to keep the upper hand against the varroas? Its a chemical free method and seems to be less stressfull (from my complete amateur viewpoint) for the bees.
Anyway cool video. learned alot. Its always nice to see how things look on the field after having only read about it.
This treatment (Formic acid) kills a LOT of mites, but it's pretty harsh on the bees. Oxalic acid needs to be used repeatedly because it's not as potent on the mites, but it does not seem to affect the bees as much. Oxalic does not penetrate the capped brood which is where the mites reproduce. It only hits mites that are actively walking or on the backs of bees. Brood breaks are a strategy to interrupt the mite reproductive cycle, but it does not KILL mites. Brood breaks combined with Oxalic Acid are a good combo for avoiding "chemicals", but "Chemicals" like Apivar (Amitraz) are very very effective and do not bother the bees at all. Can't use Apivar with honey supers on, though.
Original Balboa honey 🍯!!! I miss Her........🙏❤️
I would have had to take the hive tool and cut a little honey comb from one of the frames and sampled the work of the bees while I was working on the hives. I said whoa also! I think you save this hive with the quick strips.
Open robbing might not be a good idea. Other bees will learn that next to your hive there is good food source. Once the open frames are gone, they will search for more food on that location. And they might then rob your hives.
I notice you have a solar panel., is that what is powering your electric fence? Would love to see how you set it up.
Awesome Mite kill, I talked to you a few months back in another video I cant find about powdered sugar dust and alcohol wash. There was a guy talking about feelings when I said I didn’t feel I got a a good picture of mite level. You asked me to get back with you, so the totals are in...sugar mite count was a couple I believe, a few weeks later (Today) the alcohol was with 1/2-3/4 cup of bees using the plastic mite wash commercial container with the strainer in it I got 19 Mites. So depending how you do the math that’s 4.74 for 400 bees, or 6.33 for 300 bees. Either way not good numbers, I will be putting in the MAQs tomorrow, very strong hive and good numbers but even good numbers wont do good come winter with that count. So there you go I’m reporting back, as always love the videos!
I don't keep bees, I really liked your solution for the frames outside the hive. My only thought was that the syrup wasn't necessary on Russian hive left. I thought it would be more encouraging for the bees to focus on robbing back the honey outside the hive and then added the syrup a day or two later. But I have no idea if that's more correct or not. Maybe you didn't choose this method because you don't want to disturb the hives often.
You've come a long way with your bees and I'm sure learning new things every day. I didn't read all the comments but I'm sure people have told you about the trick of putting the frames on the top of the hive above the inner cover. I've had mixed results with that. Last year they started packing honey into them instead of robbing it out but it seemed to work better this year. I know you're not supposed to but I still put some frames that have a little honey out for the bees to rob but when I do that I usually do it further away from the hives. It also attracts the yellow jacket and I've killed probably a hundred that way. They are really attracted to the honey probably as much as the bees are so they are easy to kill because they are so focused on the honey that they aren't paying much attention to anything else.
Check the pinned comment! The trick is to leave a 'blank' box between the honey frames and the inner cover so the bees are more likely to pull the honey down below. I would have done that if I had known. Either way, the bees had those frames clean and dry in a couple days. Now they're all hanging out in their respective boxes and the bee yard has gotten mellow. No visible robbing going on. Thanks for the tips!
Ohh Didn't think of doing that. Sounds like a good idea.
I think you should do the glove test with different colored gloves. Last time they reacted badly to the black gloves. I wonder if it's the same for other colors
This video is several years old and I'm thinking Jim does not leave honey in combs lying around outside anymore. Not a good idea in so many ways.
Get the frames away from the hive. You are just begging for the weakest hives to be robbed when the frames are empty. Even if the robbers aren't successful, you'll lose a lot of bees as they defend/attack.
Mark Webber The weakest hive is the Russian I opened up in this video. I closed their entrances way down. They only have about half the bottom entrance to defend. The Italians tend to keep to themselves when the hives are closed.
I always put the removed frames "away" until the end. If i want them clean I will leave them 50' away or so and let everyone have at it - and then freeze those frames!.
Never put the frames back in if robbing has started - NEVER allow near hive robbing to start. ( I use a DARK box with an bee excluder on the top - out but not in - and most bees are out in 30 mins) I also use pillow cases sometimes but then I have to brush off the bees.
A big reason is to limit cross contamination of vectors from other hives on the exposed frames. I have seen a weak hive robbed out and then the others die a few weeks later!
Looks good. I'm not sure if you did the right thing, but what else can you do? Keep up the awesome work.
Good to see the carnage! Too bad the bees had to suffer it. Looking forward for spring!
I never throw out old comb frames. Any reason you do this? My bees seem to recycle everything when it gets bad. I never feed the colony outside the hive. I had an issue of robber bees getting the hive when I did once. I feed mine sugar water in an enclosed box ontop. I learn a lot from everyone. I would love to hear your thoughts on getting rid of old comb.
Is there a way to visually see a difference between the Italian and Russian bees???
Glad to see your getting the junk frames out!
Russians have a darker look to them. The Italians are lighter.
Very interesting. I will have to watch for this in your videos now thanks. :)
How do you keep your bees cool in this 90+ degree weather? Do they sell bottomless beehive bottoms ( just screen ) so there is ventilation going through the beehive???
Carolyn Qammaz Yes, Search for “screened bottom boards”
We use the Quick Strips too--but I don't think you can assume you had a 100% kill on the mites. Lot of dead mites does not mean you got them all. All the best.
You're probably right that I didn't get ALL of them... I think I was comparing the Quick Strips to oxalic, which needs to be applied 3 times over 3 weeks. The MAQS treatment is one time and gets MOST of the mites on the bees AND inside the cells.
Hey Dino farm ,where did you get eight frames queen excluders. Thank great info Trinidad and Tobago.
Why do you not have them treated a few times a season? Clearly more active when miteless
Feeding that close causes robbing. I would have given them a jump start with a frame of brood from strong hive. if you have plenty of brood give another frame in 10 days.
I'd have not fed so close to the hive. That is all.
I like the entryway on your Italian beehive. Where can I find one like it???
There is a link in the description to those mouse guards.
As others have noted, frames in an empty box above the inner cover will be taken down by that colony.
I was surprised to see eggs in the Russian hive this late in the season. They are noted for shutting down early, as soon as the flow ends. But then, bees are nothing if not surprising. If you want to try to keep egg-laying going, you can try adding pollen patties. Typically, syrup alone will not do it; they need pollen coming in to stimulate brood-rearing. But, there is evidence that it is the last wave of bees raised without new pollen that become the long-lived winter bees and that feeding pollen keeps them producing ‘summer’ bees. So, it’s a tough decision. Personally, given that it looks like a decent-sized colony in the one you opened (Hive Left), I would let them finish up with just syrup. Russians winter over in scary-small clusters, but seem to do fine, come spring.
Don’t toss those old frames. They are great for swarm traps.
Finally, if you want to see who is robbing whom, dust the bees at the entrance with sugar powder and watch at the entrances of your other hives. If you see dusty bees going in normally, then those hives are the culprits. But, they are just doing what bees do; they are very opportunistic. The answer is to feed, feed, feed. If you get all your colonies fat and happy, then they will be disinclined to rob. Of course, there are still your neighbors' bees….
Good luck.
Bill
Thanks for the words of wisdom. The Russian hive left was JAMMED with pollen. The bottom box had about 4 frames packed. There is nothing new coming in, but I've never seen that much in a hive. Good call saving those crap frames for swarm traps. And great idea about dusting the robbers with powdered sugar! I'm 99% certain the robbers in this video were my Italian Balboa hive. They are quite organized and focused. After those frames were cleaned up (after a few days) all activity mellowed out and the bees are keeping to themselves. No active robbing now that the hives are sealed normally. Thanks again!
Awesome video my friend. When is the best time to do this. (Month)
Depends on where you are, but generally after the last harvest of the season.
I’m getting ready to treat for mites in Ohio. Assuming I have a good mite kill, will I have to treat again before winter?
Depends on the treatment. I'm about to start 3 weeks of oxalic acid treatment. It needs to be done in three rounds. Apivar is put in and then you walk away and remove the strips in 40 days. It's too late for formic acid.
What I don't understand is why provide syrup? Seems silly and unnecessary with all the stores in the hive and open comb away from the hive to collect.
SteveAAF There is no available nectar flow. There are still several weeks of warm weather days that the bees will be flying and hopefully rearing brood. They will be using stores fast in the next 2-3 weeks. They have about 30% of the frames empty... no brood no stores. The syrup is for them to use as they want. They can fill cells, feed brood... whatever. If they don't want it, they don't have to take it. I want to give them the option.
Because winter is coming...
What is the difference between the russian bee's and Italian Bee's?
Is one not as sub ceptable two mites? Is the honey different between the two?
Very informative video! Did this hive survive? i have similar challenge with one Hive here in CT! Thanks for all you do.
This hive did not make it through winter. I have only ever seen one other hive that bad and even with a quick strip treatment, that hive also did not make it. Not blaming the quick strips. They definitely work and kill mites... Just that the mite load was WAY too high to begin with and they did not recover that close to winter. Best to test earlier and stay on top of mites before they get that bad. I've used Apivar strips with great success and this year I'm doing oxalic acid. That will be my next video.
Sorry to hear that... I’m using Apivar with Oxalic acid this year in efforts to save one of my boxes. The mite population just blew up on me! food stores are low so I’ll be feeding using the Vivaldi board as I have moisture challenges. Looking forward to your next video!
My bee-keeping experience is negligible..so this is really more a question of my own curiosity. Do your bees have access to water? Haven't noticed any in the videos. Maybe they are thirsty?
I would not leave the frames in the open. I would condense the hive like you did and put a queen excluder on and put the frames in a box above. Let the bees move their resources.
hi vino. how r ur bees doing?, waiting for ur next video :-)
Thinking of those packages you bought, how likely is it that they ship with varroa already infested? Would it be better to treat right away when they arrive for preventative measures? I'm planning on getting one come spring and want to avoid if I possibly can any expensive problems down the line.
Why didn't you check the other hives to see if they could use those cleaner drawn out frames?
hook5966 They've already been condensed a week ago and they have Apivar treatment in them. If I opened them up and rearranged frames I would have been spanked in the comments. They're OK.
keep paperback books in your back pockets - :)
as far as i know, you shouldn't let the bees to rob those frames ... you have seen how much varroa mites were in that hive, and with varroa comes viruses and other diseases. In that way you spread this all over the neighborhood ( obviously there is a possibility, that you won't infect other hives, but in general, you shouldn't leave frames outside the hives )
What did you use or what ingredients
Why are those frames trash? Cause of age? Older comb is great to attract swarming hives. They love them.
Robert Lengemann I bought a nuc from a supplier I will never use again. There are 5 frames in that hive which came in the nuc that were probably over 5 years old. Just caked with old black comb and propolis. I used them at the time because they came with brood for the nuc. After this video they were never used again.
Last but not least, you remind me a “proyect farm” if you don’t know him take a look on UA-cam and find out for yourself! Lol ....
Got a question. Ok say you've not treated yet. You go in check and you have lots of brood that obviously hasn't hatched yet and you find out your hive is infested with the mites. Say you treat for the mites and when you come back to remove the strips some of the brood hasn't hatched yet. My question is should you do another treatment until after all broods have hatched?
With all treatments EXCEPT formic acid, you need to treat again or have a treatment that continuously treats until all the brood has hatched. Formic acid (Mite Away Quick Strips) penetrates and kills capped mites. Apivar is left in for 42 days to allow all hatched brood to emerge and Oxalic Acid vapor is used 3 times over 3 weeks to catch all the emerging brood over an entire cycle.
@@vinofarm ty
I am doing Russian bees next year also but I have been told by many breeders who do russians that they can NOT be in a bee yard with any other breed of bee except for Russians. maybe something to look up and consider...
Well, maybe that's true if you're breeding Russians and want to keep the genetics pure. But you'd also need to make sure there were no other breeds in a mile radius, as well. If you're just keeping bees for honey or pollination, Italians and Russians are completely fine side by side.
Requeening will be a pain.
Nuke option...Good one lol
Found you channel recently and am thoroughly enjoying the videos. We're new beekeepers this year. Yesterday applied some Formic Pro strips using the 14 day application method and woke to loads of dead bees on the landing board this morning. I noted the instructions for the FP strips indicate you may notice higher adult bee mortality for the first couple of days and I was just wondering what your experience was or if you noticed? Thanks and keep up the good work.
Do you have adequate ventilation? You need to crack the boxes apart from each other for extra ventilation and do not try formic if you have temperatures above 85ºF.
The Formic Pro instructions don't indicate a need to add ventilation unless you're using entrance reducers (we're not) and the hives meet their recommendations. That said, we did leave the outer cover tipped to allow some extra ventilation. Maybe the MAQS instructions are different?
We're in NH and the forecast is about perfect right now for application. Both hives should have plenty of space. Things are looking better now that it has warmed up and the bees have had time to clean up. I'll continue to monitor. Was just curious about your experience. Thanks for getting back to me.
Rob Talmadge This video covered my experience. I didn’t see any dead bees after the treatment ended. Just dead mites. I don’t know anything about Formic Pro, just MAQS. I just know Formic Acid will kill bees of the temp goes up. Both times I used MAQS, I cracked the boxes apart.
Fair enough. Thanks again for getting back to me. I'm really enjoying your channel. Keep up the good work.
Can you tell "syrup honey" from natural pollen honey?
Hello, this year is my first year beekeeping. I have seen varroa mites in my drone cells, and was wondering when should I treat my hive?
Depends on where you live, time of year, temperature... need some more information.
Great video. How do you get rid of the dead mites from the mite board?
MissMerc007 Scrape them on the ground. They're dust now.
And this is the Hive that died ? WHY ? they seem so strong here, did the robbing get inside and killed the queen ?
Andrew Rae I don't know for sure that they died yet. But even if you kill the varroa, the disease that varroa leave behind will still weaken a strong hive.
putting all these frames out like that is a bad idea,it promotes robbing and draws in other predators or bees towards your hives.
How many treatments do you give
Mite Away Quick Strips - One
Apivar - One
Oxalic Acid Vapor - One per week for three weeks
what happened to the Flowframes?
This might be a stupid question, but what do the bees use pollen for?
Kopsu Protein if I'm not mistaken, wheress honey is energy/sugars.
Kopsu the pollen is a protein source for the new brood. Honey is the carbohydrates.
Ah I see. Thanks. I assume the amount of pollen needed in a hive is far less than honey?
Also do the bees eat nectar or do they always wait for it to become honey?
Kopsu They don't have to wait, but for long term storage they need to turn it to honey.
No such thing as a stupid question if you're genuinely asking
Where did you get the entrance covers???
Stephen Snitchler Link is in the description.
@@vinofarm Thank you!!
Tried these things once. Never again. Get a strong hive that keeps the hive spotless clean. Let it build real strong. You won't have a problem. Strong clean hive, no mites. Insecticide in the hive, weak bees and deadouts.
@Gabby Mouse maqs no need to remove supers. Will not contaminate honey. FDA approved.
How did your queens react to the quick strips. People I know and I have also had queen issues after using this treatment.
Bee Bob If you follow the instructions, provide adequate ventilation and use them within the correct temperature range, the bees are fine. I've used strips twice now and had no problems. I hear about dead queens when people use the strips in 90° weather.
Thanks, we all followed the instructions and had problems.
Glad to see that it's working for you.
Enjoy the winter. Huge mite kill by the way. Congratulations!
Sorry to hear you had problems. Both times I've used the strips, the temperature was below 80ºF. Both times worked perfectly. Thanks for watching.
But tell me vino farm, what did you do with the old fram with dead brood? Did you use it again or just burn it?
Uni Sol It was suggested to use it in a swarm trap. So I saved it to try a swarm trap this spring.
nice looking apiary you obviously care about your bees,
there were a few things Iwanted to comment/share with you.
1. russians are a lower prodgny bee so will never have the numbers of an italian hive, with time they can acclimate so as to be roaring during the honey flow but then go back to a lower number colony. incredible sense of management.
2. apivar is by far the best treatment period espically this time of year. looked like your bundled up a bit so you are on the low temp threshold for maqs. oxalic requires 3 or 4 visits, i see you did not count mites in a wash which will help you evaluate your efforts a tad more scientifically. ALL TREATMENTS need to be rotated, never use apivar in the spring and it is a 56 day treatment so dont sell yourself short at 30-40 days.
3. rearranging a brood box is tricky in october, that is an end august thing, more importatntly an all season thing, looks like you added brood supers early or something happened, i didnt follow your whole series so i may have missed it.
but heres the thing, different species arrange their house differently. just cause your mentor or some bloke in a book said its like this or that, its not always. ruskies are way diferent than italians in management or organization.
with the honey all the way at the outside, you kinda hurt em a bit with blank drawn combs. you might get a few more frames of eggs but probably not as much as in may, and its coldest on the outside so they wont even try for it.
4. best to bulf feed in early september so syrup can be cured, august end better yet. consider pollen feeding as well to beef your brood prior to winter. use fondant this time of year.
good luck hope your tribe does well
So, next year treat earlier :)
Anders Kristoffersson YES. And test in August no matter what.
I find myself agreeing with a few of the commenters. I like your robbing station, but its probably not a good idea to do that regularly, especially so close to the hives. Keeping the robbing station is fine, but do it out in the woods, far far from your bees. You don't want them to learn to rob each other. I don't know too much about keeping bees, I don't even keep any, but it seems to me that in this case, you already had a robbing going on and bad frames you just want to get rid of, so just once in front of the hives might be ok. Let the experienced bee keepers correct me if I'm wrong, though.
YOu dont have buried ground lines by chance do you? beneath the rock? I see distortion in the comb shape.. is that interference from an EM field off the fence?
Where did you get the entrance plates at?
Josh Mork Link in description. They are also at Glorybee cheaper, but not always in stock.
Awesome. Thank you Sir!
People on amazon have had them in stock
I didn't see that those did not include sides. The sides are literally a piece of flat sheet metal bent in a shallow s shape. You could make that with some tin snips and a coffee can. Glorybee had them for $1.99 but they're been out of stock for a while: glorybee.com/metal-entrance-reducer-mouse-guard
I made sure the picture had the 2 pieces, and they just arrived, trimmed them down to fit
First
Bald faced hornet.
Yesterday I went to a beekeeping class where wintergreen grease was mentioned for pest control. I don’t have bees myself so I can’t speak for the results of it, but here’s the link if you’d like to look into it if you haven’t. If you do use it I’d be interested in know what your results are. honeybeesuite.com/grease-patties-help-control-winter-mites/
yo ffam you gettin hella robbed
please don't use clickbait title :(
nicktohzyu how was it clickbait?
the (whoa!) is very much like "click on this video to find out, you'll never believe the results!" kind of buzzfeed clickbait titles. could simply have used a title like "Varroa treatment results were great!"
nicktohzyu whoa is not clickbait.
Nonono, Buzzfeed makes you endure till the end to find out, and sometimes doesn't really even tell you what the Whoa was about. In this video you get to see what he's talking about 30 seconds into the video. 34 seconds to be exact! Def not a "Click Bait" video.. You're comparing a knockknock joke to a shaggydog story and complaining both punchlines took way too long.
Don't cry foul every time you see an exclamation point. His picture and title both accurately depict the topic of the video.