Treat For Varroa Mites - Johno's Easy Vap (Oxalic Acid)
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- At the very end of September (after harvesting the last honey of the season) I did a test for Varroa mites and determined that my hives would need to be treated. For the past few years I've used Apivar strips, but this year I decided to try Oxalic Acid Vaporization. I bought a fantastic new tool to do the job... Johno's Easy Vap! Watch how I treat for varroa mites and the results at the end!
Thank you for watching and commenting.
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THE. BENT PIPE: I have answered this 6 times and the comments keep coming in. Yes, the pipe bent, but no, it’s not a problem. I followed the advice in Johno’s instructions to drill the holes in the lower, back of the brood box at an upwards angle. I drilled all the holes and then realized my hive stands got in the way of the tool when it was time to rotate it into position. So the pipe bent itself into that shape after the first few treatments due to the angle of the holes. The pipe is copper and it gets hot and copper is very malleable. It did not kink or crack. It still works fine. With a little heat and gentle pressure it will bend right back. I have since repositioned the holes and everything is fine. No big deal.
I drilled the 1/4in hole at 90 degrees to the surface and being careful it bent just a little bit, but not 45deg.
Paul Stamets
You have the cleanest hives I’ve ever seen. I can’t even watch most of the other bee videos out there because they look so messy compared to your hives. ❤️ Keep up the amazing work!!
Can we just appreciate the sexy wooden Radio Flyer for a minute? I'm in love!
It gets more use by me than by my son.
You try something new and everyone & their mom are out to get you. "I'm treatment free" "I don't use any chemicals" "I only use gluten free, sugar free, dairy free, treatments & aroma therapy oils". Everyone is different & they all use methods that work for them & their bees. You are open to using new things to keep your bees in tip top shape, a person can't try all methods at one time. People are SO pushy. I also want you to know that my husband also wears a mask & doesn't shave his face, like you, he's a grown man & KNOWS that his beard makes it so it isn't going to work correctly. People need to just let you be. You always ask for advice when you want it. YOU'RE DOING A GREAT JOB!!
Ctreefort Thank you for the support!
The way I see it is as long as you're doing SOMETHING for mites, whether it's chemical free or not, then you're being a responsible beekeeper. I wish more beekeepers shared the same sentiment as you!
@@HaUsSssss I dont treat. I'm not responsible. Only lost one hive, my bees are pretty responsible.. they coo
Chemical free beekeepers are fools. Honey is a chemical. Nectar is chemicals. Paint, nails, and the metal screens are made of chemicals. Your hive tool is made of chemicals. Need I go on?
Don't be afraid to throw an extra treatment or two in that 21 days Jim. When I use OA, I treat every 5 days for 21 days. Really knocks those mite loads out!
I've already done 3 treatments. If the weather stays warm I will do at least one more.
@@vinofarm I think what Shawn meant is that oxalic vapor should really be done more often than every seven days. Some do it every 5, and even some every 3 days. As long as there is brood in the hive, every 7 days will not eliminate the mites. Reduce the mites, YES, but not eliminate. Oxalic is excellent when a hive is broodless. Tennessee Bees has a video series on this subject. I also use a higher dose, such as 4 grams a hive vs. the typical 2 grams. To each his own.
More is not always better.....i would wager a bet that you could make a hive abscond if you do this every three days (as per a reply). The other piece to this i think people get wrong is that OA will not erradicate varroa...it is a varroa MANAGEMENT tool....it is about reducing the numbers to where the hive can manage the load. Going through the effort to erradicate varroa via OA will most certainly negatively impact the bees
@@hyfy-tr2jy I'm not going to debate you on this subject, but thats a bet you would most likely loose. Good Luck to you and your bees. Peace
In germany you would do the treatments every 3 days as well.
Greetings
As alway, as soon as i see your notification, i must know the BUZZ going on 🐝🐝🐝 thank you for all you do, i truly love your videos!!!!
Hi Jim, a few things about OAV I have found - 1. If you have screened bottom boards keep an eye on your screens for corrosion from the OA ( the bees can get trapped and die underneath ). It will eat through it. I put metal down where I treat in the back of the bottom board. 2. Add a little extra OA to each treatment it helps and wont hurt the bees. 3. you can do 1 treatment every fives days for 25 days as well as the 3 over 21 days. 4. Support the Vap to keep the tub from bending and you can run a drop of water through it with the cap on to clean it and the cap. - Good Luck with your new tool...…. I built the one you mentioned Jason built, I actually built 2 and love them. I have a backup
Great advice. Thanks, man.
Addicted to your bee keeping video soon i will make bee colony
Careful with the Apivar strips. My new packages were treated in late spring with Apivar and there was a zero mite kill. I used Oxalic acid a couple of weeks ago and vaped the acid into the hives. Results on my boards showed hundreds of dead mites.
Hey Jim, Definitely do 4 treatments 5 days apart (I do 5x5). The math works in such a way that during that time period there wont be any cells that aren't treated during that cycle (don't forget that drones are capped longer and mites love that). The math on 3x7 day treatments does not work to have 100% coverage. Welcome to the OAV crew!
Added for clarity: After your first treatment you will have unaffected mites on emerging bees that were under cappings when you treated. Some of those mites will end up in brood cells and capped over before your next treatment at 7 days.
Well, they are all done now. I'm going to hit them a 4th time this week.
@Vino Farm Good deal. Thanks for the tip on Johno from Beesource. I'm not as active on there as I used to be, and my OAV wand is falling apart, I think I might be sending Johno an email here soon lol. Provap 110 for almost $500 is just way too much for me...
@Backyard Bees NC As crystals though, then the bees carry it out. The crystals won't really affect mites. Unless you are referring to OA liquid method?
@Backyard Bees NC It stays in gaseous form for a good 10-20 seconds inside the hive. It is a flash treatment though yeah.
In Bulgaria the Oxalic acid is widely used for controlling mites but we just dilute in water and spray it.
A great video! Thank you! Your videos are always so beginner friendly and it's appreciated.
Thanks. I'm making these videos for past me, 3 years ago.
Sorry for the bumping this - Greenworks makes an inverter that runs off of their 60V battery (for their hedgetrimmer, weed wacker, blower, etc). Has an AC outlet and couple USBs and probably a few other things.
Wow , Wow , Wow those numbers of mites was very, very hi . Looks like you are on the path to getting them down to where they need to be. What a great video. Thanks
Great video- very interesting and practical stuff! As soon as I get the notification that you've posted- I go right to the video ;-) Thanks Jim!!
I made my own version of a provap but i used a lath to do the aluminum bottom and instead of copper i used stainless steel tube lathed to 42 mm od and brazed the copper pipe to the stainless tube pit the band and connected to the temp regulator so far works good for the past three years, the caps i made out of teflon stock with o-ring
Impressed with your respirator seal check ❤️ - I taught and fit respirators at work. It’s always good to see someone taking the right steps to protect themselves.
Great video. I'd not only mark the medium boxes but the frames as well. I don't know how many times I've pulled frames out only to try and remember if it was hit with OA or not.
I picked up a Vaporizer this spring from Jon. Fast and easy, you can also use the inverter in your running truck if you can drive to your yard. I think this treatment system is hands down one of the best treatment methods. Keep in mind you are only killing mites on the bees with OAV, this is why it’s recommended for early spring and late fall treatments. I treat with OAV all summer just have to treat 3 times 5-7 days apart.
Lol I commented as the video was playing, I see you just put the disclaimer in there. Regardless the best 150 you can spend for your bees!
talked with Johno recently and he said between being swamped with orders and hes going to be visiting family i believe overseas so hes booked for the year. He told me contact him beginning of 2020, i cant wait to get my easy vap from him!
Likely, that there will be Chinese knock-offs on the market next week.
You're going to have too many bees next year! Oxalic acid vapor treatments really keep them healthy. I'd recommend doing a fourth treatment though. The first 3 starting in August, then one more in October. That way, the late summer bees that raise the winter bees are healthy.
I know this is unrelated but whenever someone comments 'thanks Jim' i hear spocks voice in my head. 🤓
Love all your vlogs. Especially the bee vlogs. Thank you
Jim, I bought an easy vap that uses a small torch to burn the OA. It does a great job and I don't have to lug around an electric cord or battery anymore. I was using the wand with a battery and now I don't have to. Nice video though.
I thought the temp for the vaporization was 317, definitely not above 370. Also, can you just put the OA into the cold bin and then put it in to get going?
Another charming, informative, and well-edited video!
Hey vino farm the way with battery and converter how about having a small shed were you can have some batteries for solar panel or panels where you can just have a power cord for the vapor
That would be another way to do it... but it would probably cost more than $100 or so. Others have suggested just getting the $30 inverter and pulling up a car or lawnmower with a battery. My tractor is 6 volt, so that wasn't an option. There are definitely lots of options. Thanks for watching.
Jim, the temperature recovery IS the BEST indicator of a completed cycle when applying OA. You can easily recover the cost of units by treating other keepers hives. Also - use your car for 12 volt supply, idle it to keep power up for the inverter. It saves the hauling and recharging time and work while also providing portability. Note for 2 or 3 frame nucs - use just ONE gram not the full 2 of OA - it's wonderfully effective!!!
TheOregonOutlaw Good tips. Thanks!
Oxalic acid
is rather commonly used here in Germany. It has two major issues, though.
1. It is a lot of stress for the bees and damages the queens shell. While it doesn't kill her, it can make the longevity of the queen shorter. Instead of aging 3-5 years old she may only does 2-3 years.
2. There will always be leftovers of the acid in the hive and thus potentially in the honey. While it is such small margins that it shouldn't be an issue when consuming the honey, I stil think it is too much. For example - there is still an low amounts of an acid (forgot the name of it, though) that was used here in Germany in the 70s to 80s to be found in some commercial wax today. Despite it being banned for over 30 years.
Thus personally I dislike using it and only do so when I occasionally get a hive from someone else that has too much Varroa and need a quick, strong treatment right away. It's your hives, though. So it's your choice which to take. But me as a result of those reasons above I tried to educate myself and figure out ways to reat for the Varroa without any additional outside tools. So I may just give some of my own personal insight.
1. Brood removal. This is the easiest and most effective way to get rid of the Varroa. Most of it is inside the closed brood. Think it was around 80-90%. So removing a hives entire brood pretty much removes a big chunk of the Varroa. It does slow down your honey-harvest a little due to the hive needing time to rebuild their brood-structure. There are two timings to do it. One is during the swarm time to create a new hive as a split so you only have to "clean" the split. Secondly - and this is the more important timing - some time after the summer solstice bees start producing less beemass. Before that the bees produce so many bees that the Varroa can't keep up, but once the bees slow down it does. When that point is that bees slow down their breeding depends on your local weather, though. Here in Germany it is pretty much directly with the summer solstice. It warmer areas I imagine it being later than that. Also a fun thing you can do is to hang the frames up in the trees and the birds will love you for it and eat the lavae, etc. Alternatively if you have chickens you can do the same for them ;)
2. "Encourage" the bees to give in to their cleaning instincts. For example the problem with many industrial beekeeping is that the bees are being pushed too much and they do have a priority list of instincts they follow. Cleaning is probably at the very bottom. Taking care of the queen, having food, etc. naturally come first. A clean, but queenless and hungry hive ain't gonna do well ;)
The point is, the bees do take care of the Varroa themselves. Wild hives do survive as well, beacuse of it. There are three ways to make a hive clean their hive more and thus get rid of the Varroa. One is to not create too much of a workload for them. For example don't harvest too much honey from them and don't give them too much space. If the hive is more filled, either by being a small compact hive or the big hive being filled overall, there are more "bored" worker-bees that will start cleaning more throughoutly. In addition keeping the hive clean as the beekeeper helps. Don't let the wax get too old (my personal rule of thumb is around 3 years or when it starts becoming black) and if there is too much leftover "dirt" on the bottom, clean it out. I remember having gotten an hive 2 years ago where the bottom was full of leftover dirt, etc. Completely covered. The bees were rather itchy. I then cleaned out the bottom and lo and behold a week later the bees were happily doing their job.
Also it's morbidly fun to watch the bees force out their crippled ones.
3. Do occasional artifical swarms. Aka put your beemass into a new hive, clean and empty hive. This is the major way how wild honeybees deal with the Varroa. They swarm away and leave their brood behind. Since most of the infected is in the brood and the damaged bees can't fly a new swarm essentially has no Varroa.
This is what I've been doing for the past years and I have had no issues with the Varroa at all. Despite not using any treatments other than that. The only issue is that when I keep my hives rather compact, they are way more swarm-happy the next year. And if I keep them too compact, I may have had them do a late swarm. So it can be a tad bit tricky in that regard. But in return - and because I also don't use any sugar-water and external wax since I want my bees to be completely self-reliant - the honey I get is free of everything. No chemicals, no sugar leftovers, no low quality wax.
But that was always my aim. To have my hive be autarkic. It is your bees, though. I definitely respect your approach of trial and error by trying out new things to eventually arrive at what is best for you.
In best regards.
P.S. Just some general information for the readers: If the acid is being used, it should be used ideally right before or when the hive starts producing their winter bees. When that is depends on the time of the year. Considering you have a shirt on I would assume your state is rather warm. Here in Germany this would be 2 months too late.
Also American weather is probably a lot more forgiving for bees than european one. Especially here in Germany we go from 104F for 2 months to 5F for 1-2 months in especially strong years. So it is a lot more straining weather for bees. From my experience the US weather is a lot less "divisive" (there probably is a better word for it?)
I use oxalic acid as well. I only have 4 hives so I treat them with a vaporizer wand. Maybe next year I will upgrade to the Johno Easy Vap.
Fewer than 5 hives, the wand wouldn't be too bad. With 20 colonies, Johno's Easy Vap is awesome!
Always a pleasure watching your videos. Thank you
Jim another thing is John isn't taking orders for the next few months - He posted on BeeSource - I think he went on an extended vacation overseas or something like that
Well, he'll have a lot of email waiting for him for the winter season.
Four tips: 1. Do it while the bees are active (mid-day), not in cluster- so you can get at the nursebees. 2. Clean the nozzle after each use - its an acid - it WILL eat away at the nozzle. 3. Test burn your acid - over the course of a season Oxalic Acid absorbs moisture - even if its in a plastic container, and the burn times will get longer over time. (which is fine - it still sublimates, just takes longer for the full dose to be completely vaporized.) 4. You can do the treatments until 43F. So I usually sneak in one or two in midwinter, just because winter is the best time to use OAV.
Lucky on my island there are no mites.
I hope it stays that way!
That is great! Do you have small hive beetles on your island?
@@PhillipHall01 yes. got those guys.
That really look like it worked well for you very simple way to go I hope you get your problem solved can't wait for the next video :-) peace
I have one of John’s vaporizers, works great and kills lots of mites. I live close to John and picked mine up. John is experimenting with drilling the access point in the upper part of the brood box (or super) at an upward angle. He feels he is getting better vapor coverage with an upper access point. I must admit I was Leary about drilling holes in the boxes so I put in a wooden spacer between brood boxes. I also use a long dowel to plug the hole when I’m done with the treatment.
His latest instructions said to drill into the bottom at an upward angle. That's how I did it. I see vapor coming out of every crack and crevice and upper entrance, so I know it's going everywhere.
Yes, he is doing some testing. I don’t know John and don’t want to speak for him. He was showing me around his apiary and showed me where he was drilling the holes. Maybe when he finishes his testing we will get an update?
Awesome and helpful!!!
Oxalic acid seems to be a good way to treat, however in Europe I only see the wand model. The provape is not for sale here. The investment seems a bit steep, but with these hive counts it seems the best pricewise.
For now I keep using formic acid. This year I bought 85% solution, placed 40ml on a piece of fabric (cleaning paper) and place it on the bottom board. 2 days and I had same mite drop as those where I used MAQS. There is a negative side effect: Sometimes queens are affected. Reports say 10%.
Benefit is that scientific beekeeper reports higher mite kill ratio with formic acid
Formic acid can only be used within a pretty specific temperature window. We're too cold for it to be effective at this point and the summer is too hot. I really liked the Apivar, but I need to mix it up to stay ahead of the mites. Thanks for watching.
Formic seems to have a more severe affect on the bees - over OAV. I've opened my hives within 10 minutes of OAV - no dead bees. Formic pads on the other hand (for me at least) seem to kill more bees. To each their own, I'm sure Jim will have many years of good luck with this method at a very cheap cost moneywise and timewise.
From what I understand, the Pro-Vap type was first developed in Europe and copied here in the states, The European brand has another name. JohnOs has some differences but basically the same theory. Someone correct me if I am mistaken.
Interesting cuz EVERYONE I know over here uses it. I don't think I know anyone who doesn't use it. I just treated my hives with it earlier this month.
I need to start doing this to my hives
The effect for a short time, oxalic acid + glycerin, is very good.
I have a Johno’s and love it!
I'm not sure about the electronics of heating elements, but I wonder if it would be possible to make a DC version of that so you don't need the battery + inverter setup.
I know nothing about electronics either. This comes with a plug for 110v because most people buying this have access to an outlet. The inverter can also be hooked up to a car or lawnmower battery saving a lot of money on the battery. Inverters can be found for less than what I paid.
New bee here. I have been learning a lot watching your channel. What do you use to make your sticky boards?
The boards are just plastic coroplast. They came with the screened bottom boards.
Personally I prefer to use my vaporizer from the back of the hives but to each their own. I plug my holes with golf tees. A word of caution to all. ALWAYS ensure that the holes are unclogged before inserting wand tip or you will risk the cap blowing off due to pressure.
All of these treatments were from the backs of the hives.
Do you ever have to deal with small hive beetles or does it not get warm enough in Mass. for them to be a problem?
Not a problem I’ve ever had to deal with.
Vino Farm lucky you. Things are really hot here in South Carolina and they are trying to move into my hives. I put dry swifter sheets on top of the frames in the corners and that is doing the trick.
Instead of a battery and inverter consider an Omnicharge 20. It will be useful to you in other ways too :)
Some tool manufacturers make inverters that just use tool batteries (Ryobi comes to mind). I don't know if they would be powerful enough for this, but seems like it's worth investigating, as it could reduce the total cost of investment quite a bit.
If you have a power outlet within extension cord reach, you don't need the battery and inverter. I just explained it because of my situation. I would think many beekeepers have an outlet within 100 feet of their bee yard. I don't mind the investment as now I can use that battery and inverter for other things.
you always make me laugh lol
I just bought one. Looks great.
Fabulous video!!!
I see a few dislikes - these are the people who say we should just leave the bees to deal with the mites themselves. These people figure that some bees will survive and then mites wont matter. That might work if the consequences of failure were not so devastating. I do like to eat! I figure most of us do. Only farmers will eat if we lose most of our propagators!
that's whisful thinking.. how can they expect the European bees to adapt in a few decades to a parasite when Asian bees developed their resistance after probably several millennia...
@@Muiuiuky
I totally agree with you.
I used tea tree, wintergreen, and spearmint in all feedings this year. My mite count was 0 in 3 samples, 900 bees. They are super strong.
Sounds good. I hope they stay that way.
The president of my bee club was talking about him at our last meeting i went to. Lol.
Did you plug the hole you drilled?
I love Johnny pro vap so much I put electric outlet in my Apiary. Just an extension cord needed.
I've never needed power up there, but this might make me think about it. It's 300' away from the nearest power source. It would be a decent investment. For now, that battery has gone through 3 rounds of treatment and I still haven't re-charged it yet!
You will never know when you need power until you stand there wondering how long your extension cord is.
Might not be worth now, but there will be a time you are thankful for it.
Yet alone cutting the trees when they get too big
@@YuubiTimberwolf So true. No more dragging 100 ft extension cable.
@@vinofarm You can buy #12/2 underground 250ft roll for under $75. Sow right into the ground, but 1" pvc conduct is nice for wire protection.
@@Mackabees Hmmm.... Maybe next year. Good tip.
Jim....HUGE thanks for making us aware of this item. My big hessitation with OA has been the cost of the sublimation vaporizers and this really solves those issues. How do you feel the ergonomics of the handle placement is? To me it looks a bit awkwardly placed if your hive doent have a hole that will just hold the vape on its own. Does the build seem durable?
Build quality seems fine, but it's also very clearly handmade with off-the-shelf parts and all the parts are easy to repair or replace. The holes in the hive are drilled by you... so you make them the right size for the little pipe.
Balboa and Russians were heavy on mites, but the vsh seemed like they were lighter on mites. Was this the actual case or did it just seem like that?
It may have just appeared that way. What I noticed was the largest population hives had more mites which would make sense.
Man!!!! I feel bad for your costs!!!! Weller bees has a refillable butane one that’s only &125!
Just wondering where do you live, im a beekeeper in Canada A,B
@@aidar5650 Thaks
This is probably a dumb question but I know you have the answer. How long does the hive have to remain sealed after the OA treatment? I am thinking about getting one of these devices to treat my hives and out of all of the vaporizers I have seen I keep coming back to this one because It seems to have worked for you. Are you still happy with it?
Yeah, it's great. I just got an email from Johno last night. He's even got a new design now. Highly recommended.
I have about 5 moist towels with me. I put one at each entrance to hold the vapor in as I go along. I think I leave the towels on for a few minutes. Maybe 4-5 minutes? I don't really time it. As I move along, I grab the towel that's been on the longest and put it on the next hive I'm treating, so the oldest towel has been on for about 4-5 minutes before I remove it to put on the next hive.
@@vinofarm Thank you for the information. I ordered the newer one last night. That is two products I have bought on your recommendation. :-). I think the only difference is the placement of the wand that you put into the hive. Nevertheless, thank you for your reply. I really appreciate it.
Johno is not taking orders until January 2020!!!
Is you Johno's easy vap still working? Thinking about getting one myself. Thanks
Great tool. With that many veroa ,would you current winter bees be inferior since they came out of cells that also had veroa? The queen would never be able to replace all those bees at this time of year!
I felt that was actually a pretty LOW mite load. We shall see how they fare over the winter. Not much I can do at this point but treat the mites and make sure they have food. I'm doing all I can.
Almost time to expand the bee yard!
Nope! I built the fence to contain the expansion. This is pretty much it. Now I just need to build stronger hives.
But Spring splits are only one winter away!
Maybe vertically stacked hives? But we all know what happened with the "upstairs queen" so... time will tell? I don't have 2020 vision! :)
Great ! Thank you very much !
hi,
the oxalic may not go beyond 190 degrees celcius
so this thing goes too high in temperature
No??
The temp on this device is Fahrenheit.
I may walk to work but bought one. Forget the pan
Oxalic acid Is the best treatment as long as you don t have brood. It you have brood you May wnt to repeat It every 5 days and cover a brood cycle
I mentioned this in the video.
Klasse Gerät..👍
Well done, thanks!
How much brood loss did you get. ? we use oxalic only in winter when there is no brood.
None that I noticed. This is pretty harmless to brood.
Hey Vino, sorry about the bee girls on the mite board. Kinda sad to see that happening to such a wonderful creature!
It's always sad to see a dead bee, but those are most likely robbers trying to find a way in underneath and getting stuck. Not killed by the treatment.
Did you do anything with the holes that you drilled? It seems like the holes were big enough for the bees to exit/enter.
No. They cover them up after I'm done.
Anyone know what the main difference of using a vaporizer that vaporizes liquified oxalic acid apposed to dry acid? Is it just the ease of application?
I have never heard of liquified Oxalic acid. The dry stuff is super easy to work with and easy to obtain. The tool used in this video is designed to work with dry acid.
Crystallized OA is more pure than a liquid. It is also safer to store and transport.
I like using the dribble method that is common in Europe. ScientificBeeKeeping has some good tutorials on its use.
Have a question that is not related to topic of Treatment.
You made a videos about different type of hives including Flow hive. But I haven’t seen you using a polystyrene hives. What is your opinion about Lyson hives? Did you try them?
I have a flow hive I have not used yet. All my other hives are wood. I do cover them with polystyrene in winter, but they are made of wood. I have not used Lyson hives.
So, you've had this a little over a year. What are your thoughts now? Still liking it? Still working well?
Works great. Johno released a new model that I shot a video for but have not yet edited. It works just as advertised. No problems.
@@vinofarm Thank you.
I got have the Easy Vap and loving it, and I also spread diatomaceous earth around the bee yard to kill the beetles in the ground, it's been working for me, maybe you should look into it yourself. It's cool we both watch Jason and got the Easy Vap at the same time ;)
Be aware: diatomaceous earth does not discriminate - it will kill bees just as fast as other insects.
@@drrota only ones that land on it
@@planbeeapiaries the ones that land on it may take it back to the hive. It's like crawling on broken glass and then gathering together for a family photo
@@justwinks1553 haven't seen this happen yet, but did think about it. Usually they can't take off once they land in the stuff.
@@planbeeapiaries just remember it's a mechanical action so it's very similar to rolling around and broken glass although I absolutely love it for fleas in house
great video....having trouble linking to "johno's vaper cite...to order ...please advise....
john neumann There is no site. You need to email him and he will reply with details. I didn’t want to list his email and flood him with messages, so I just flashed it on the screen.
I sent you info about a month ago about a mite treatment that doesn't use chemicals. I never heard back if you considered this treatment or not.
TILLER BEEZ Thanks for the info. I get a lot of email and it doesn’t all get a reply. Sorry. I have been planning on using Oxalic since early spring and had this tool ordered over the summer. I may look into alternate methods and plan to try some next season. This is all I’m doing this year.
Here's a link that details the process. Might not fit your style due to the time requirement to treat each hive. www.vatorex.ch/en/products/vatorex-system/hyperthermy/
"Murder more bees" LOL
Was the vap nozzle easier to insert when you bent it at an angle?
It bent as I was doing it and I didn't realize until I was done. Johno recommended drilling the hole at an upwards angle and my stands were in the way after I flipped the gun, so the nozzle bent. It's just a small copper pipe and very hot, so it bent like a bendy straw... It's not kinked. Not a big deal.
Do you have a link for that mask? How much was it? Thanks for this info!
DIYMarta All gear I use is in my amazon shop page. Link is always in the description. If you buy at Amazon, I get a little commission, but feel free to shop there and buy wherever you want.
How do I find the link to your Amazon shop page? Thank you.
@@bdgraubart It's right in the description of every video. www.amazon.com/shop/vinofarm
I’m curious if you know of any other guns that will apply the same chemical the same way Jhono is booked through next year and I hit him up weeks ago
There is a $500 version... and people like it, but I just can’t suggest spending that much for this type of tool. Look up Jason Chrisman on UA-cam... he made a homemade version. There might be other ideas listed on that video. My only suggestion is to avoid the ‘fogger’ type machines that are being sold. The only really proven effective delivery system for OA is vaporization (sublimation).
Do you know if these are still available?
He makes them to order. Email him and he will get back to you.
Do most wear a breathing device when treating with OA?
it's a highly toxic substance and if inhaled it can damage heavily your respiratory system, so it's a must to wear a breathing device especially if you do this kind of treatment
How does oxalic acid affect the bees
It affects them in a good way.
Oxalic acid is natural and is already naturally in honey but in very small levels. It burns the mite's little feet off and they can't hold onto a bee.
Where can you buy this Easy Vape
I may have missed this somewhere- but why are you wearing 2 rings now?
Long term durability testing going on... Trying different brands.
@@vinofarm that makes sense! Thanks for your reply! I always look forward to your insightful and adventurous (not to mention clear and well organized) videos.
I am curious, I think I've seen a comment where you said that you were at the amount of hives you wanted. How do you plan on dealing with their tendency to keep growing? Selling them, let them swarm? This potential issue has been bugging me (Pun intended) for a while. I'm asking cauz you've convinced me to give beekeeping a try and may end up facing this situation.
(I'll get to start in spring if I'm lucky) :)
Arendey The idea is this year’s nucs will become next year’s winter death replacements. We won’t have the problem of 20 extra hives we don’t know what to do with. First priority is to keep 10-12 ‘main’ production hives. Then make 10 nucs as ‘resource’ hives. These are the backup hives I can steal from when needed. Then we start giving bees away or selling nucs. The last scenario is that swarms will happen. I want to find the balance between what our local environment can support and what kind of time and energy I have to manage them. I feel like we are at that balance now. I’ll have a problem if ALL my bees survive winter and are booming in the spring, but the reality is that won’t happen.
@@vinofarm Thank you for the answer, and for your awesome work. It helps and inspires others more than you know!
@@vinofarm The goal is to be self-sustaining!! But even with 10+ hives now, I'm still depending on getting new queens for ones that fail. I've sold honey this year, and could afford new queens, BUT, I'd rather not have to pay for and run around to get more queens. (time waster) Is there anything you plan to do to 'keep (bank) more queens' separate from your resource hives?
There are some mites ... there are a couple hundred ????
You might want to look into using honey from those frames later, i believe i have heard it's not healthy for you. But look into it, i get paranoid about that stuff so i go treatment free . love your vids!
7:36
300: Cleansing of Empires
RIP little ones 😞
Hey Jim. Curious, does the Oxalic Acid Vaporization take down any bees along with the mites?
They all come out covered in the fine dust. I have not noticed any ill effects to the bees. They don't like it, but they don't die.
Vino Farm how great is that?!
@@billb.2673 For some reason ( and I don't claim to be a bee whisperer or anything), after I do OAV on my bees, they all seem 'relaxed and relieved' , as if someone has just taken a HUGE painful thorn out of their side...
Yes I am are getting Treeed
So, is this treatment harmful to humans via the honey.
?
I wouldn't say "harmful" but it is not sellable. Oxalic acid occurs naturally in many foods like leafy greens and nuts. It won't kill you, but the side effects of over consumption are kidney stones.
Mr. Vino sir is there more videos like season 1,2,and 3. Thanks for sharing your journey with us in your adventures in beekeeping
Playlists by season: ua-cam.com/channels/-xczyljpDKuM00-45OUrvg.htmlplaylists
All videos Chronologically Oldest to Newest: ua-cam.com/channels/-xczyljpDKuM00-45OUrvg.htmlvideos?view=0&sort=da&flow=grid
Whyyyyy you used on nuc ,I used on one of my nuc and they absconded
Mine did not abscond.
I like to use mineral oil with winter green in a fogger and putting walnut shavings or Frye’s hills in my smoker. Works great and kills mites.
How do you know what size mask to buy?
Go to the 3M web site and they have a more detailed description of their mask sizes.
Name of mask you use?
amzn.to/2PeNGiP (Price has doubled in the past year due to covid, but it's an awesome mask.)