I always recommend getting some 18ga white primary wire and run a ground wire to all lights. Use solid loom rather than split, and seal the ends with rubber tape. Do not use electrical tape since it's not intended for permanent use. There's no real need to still ground the trailer, so just connect everything with heat-shrink butt splices. I bought the Kenway trailer wiring kit and used that. It's heavier gauge and includes a full ground wire. I used the wiring kit that came with the trailer to add lights to a HF receiver mount cargo carrier since it's smaller gauge and fit through the tubing more easily. Make sure any plastic clips, ties, or loom are UV resistant. I recommend tightening the top frame bolts first, then the bottom bolts. That will ensure a consistent 1/8" difference between the top of the rails and the top of the cross-members on top. As mentioned before, OSB is a poor choice, both for durability and load bearing. It has good shear strength, which is why it's used for shear wall in residential construction, but has poor lateral strength. I would never use it for subfloor or trailer deck, even if it's rated for it. OSB will always be more spongy than the same thickness plywood. 3/4 Plywood will provided the load bearing needed, but make sure to add 1/8" spacers where it rests over the cross-bars (which is why you tighten the top bolts first). If you allow the plywood to bend upward along the edges it will create micro-fractures in the glue and wood that can wick moisture and cause it to fail prematurely. If you don't mind raw wood, you can buy Pressure Treated plywood but I would recommend Marine Plywood instead. Pressure Treated wood is chemically treated for rot from ground contact. Marine Plywood has more layers and uses waterproof glue, so it's much better suited for a trailer deck. You also can't paint PT plywood due to the chemicals. If you can't afford Marine Plywood, buy the highest grade standard plywood you can afford and paint it with something like Farm and Implement paint, or use a solid or semi-transparent stain.
😂😂😂..OSB isn't considered Plywood by any stretch of the imagination..OSB is basically mulch with glue in the shape of plywood..Vastly different..1st few rain storms will show you how it turns into a sponge like a wet phone book..Cheers..
100%. I wouldn’t recommend going anything less than 3/4 pressure treated plywood for a trailer deck. I cheaped out and put 5/8 PT on the first trailer I built and it lasted 5-6 years, but it also started delaminating and falling apart from loading and walking around on it and exposure to elements (it’s not always going to be a dry and warm sunny day when you are hauling stuff).
Yeah I'm going to have to replace it with something better at some point in the next couple years here. It depends on how expensive our plywood gets here in California, lol.
Thanks for sharing your trailer build! Thinking of getting one for my accord to do all truck things I would need.
@@JourneyToThePresent I definitely recommend it. @realBLAlley has some great advice in the comment below too if you plan on doing some upgrades.
I always recommend getting some 18ga white primary wire and run a ground wire to all lights. Use solid loom rather than split, and seal the ends with rubber tape. Do not use electrical tape since it's not intended for permanent use.
There's no real need to still ground the trailer, so just connect everything with heat-shrink butt splices.
I bought the Kenway trailer wiring kit and used that. It's heavier gauge and includes a full ground wire. I used the wiring kit that came with the trailer to add lights to a HF receiver mount cargo carrier since it's smaller gauge and fit through the tubing more easily.
Make sure any plastic clips, ties, or loom are UV resistant.
I recommend tightening the top frame bolts first, then the bottom bolts. That will ensure a consistent 1/8" difference between the top of the rails and the top of the cross-members on top.
As mentioned before, OSB is a poor choice, both for durability and load bearing. It has good shear strength, which is why it's used for shear wall in residential construction, but has poor lateral strength. I would never use it for subfloor or trailer deck, even if it's rated for it. OSB will always be more spongy than the same thickness plywood.
3/4 Plywood will provided the load bearing needed, but make sure to add 1/8" spacers where it rests over the cross-bars (which is why you tighten the top bolts first). If you allow the plywood to bend upward along the edges it will create micro-fractures in the glue and wood that can wick moisture and cause it to fail prematurely.
If you don't mind raw wood, you can buy Pressure Treated plywood but I would recommend Marine Plywood instead. Pressure Treated wood is chemically treated for rot from ground contact. Marine Plywood has more layers and uses waterproof glue, so it's much better suited for a trailer deck. You also can't paint PT plywood due to the chemicals.
If you can't afford Marine Plywood, buy the highest grade standard plywood you can afford and paint it with something like Farm and Implement paint, or use a solid or semi-transparent stain.
You could use a better wood for the floor, it is worth it.
Cheaper then getting a truck…
😂😂😂..OSB isn't considered Plywood by any stretch of the imagination..OSB is basically mulch with glue in the shape of plywood..Vastly different..1st few rain storms will show you how it turns into a sponge like a wet phone book..Cheers..
100%. I wouldn’t recommend going anything less than 3/4 pressure treated plywood for a trailer deck. I cheaped out and put 5/8 PT on the first trailer I built and it lasted 5-6 years, but it also started delaminating and falling apart from loading and walking around on it and exposure to elements (it’s not always going to be a dry and warm sunny day when you are hauling stuff).
Yeah I'm going to have to replace it with something better at some point in the next couple years here. It depends on how expensive our plywood gets here in California, lol.