Lubricate Caliper Pins, Removing Brake Caliper, 2014-2018 Toyota Corolla 1.8L
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- Опубліковано 10 сер 2024
- Lubricating the caliper sliding pins on a 2014-2018 Toyota Corolla, using Molyslip Silicone Brake Lubricant.
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I use Silicone Grease as shown in the video, and it has worked great for me. Syl Glide is a similar grease.
➡️ Syl-Glide Silicone Grease: amzn.to/3ZqUkCj
Toyota recommends "Lithium Soap-base glycol grease" (08887-01206) Only For caliper pins,
and "Brake Caliper Grease (08887-80609)" for the shims.
➡️ Lithium Soap-base glycol grease (08887-01206): amzn.to/3VOPwmX
➡️ Brake Caliper Grease (08887-80609): amzn.to/3IzSkRQ
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⚠️ DISCLAIMER:
Use of the information in this video is solely at your own risk. The creator of this video assumes no liability for any property damage, injury or expenses incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
The creator of this video makes no claims, promises or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the procedures and instructions contained in this video.
Any injury, damage, or loss that might occur as a result of improper application, improper use of tools or equipment, or from the information contained in this video, is solely the responsibility of the user.
🕑 Timestamps
00:00 Intro
00:14 Removing the Caliper
00:48 Removing Guide Pins
1:10 Removing Rubber Boots
1:40 Removing Brake Pads
1:45 Removing Caliper Bracket
2:00 Clean & Lubricate Caliper Guide Pins
2:54 Cleaning Rust from Caliper Bracket Under Shims
3:40 Lubricating Caliper Guide Holes
4:10 Re-install Rubber Boots
4:25 Re-install Guide Pins
4:37 Re-install Caliper Bracket (Caliper Bracket Bolt Torque 79 ft. lbs)
5:10 Re-install Brake Pads
5:38 Re-install Caliper (Caliper Bolt Torque 25 ft. lbs)
6:02 Pump Brake Pedal
Years: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018. - Авто та транспорт
If you enjoyed the video, please give it a thumbs up 👍. Your support helps me create more content and is greatly appreciated .
For the full *Front Brake Pads* & *Rotor Video* check out: ua-cam.com/video/BE1MdwJ_cQY/v-deo.html
Your videos are very well done. Your like count should be higher. Thanks for making this.
Very clear instruction. Great video. Thank you.
Very good work my friend ! Here is from Brasil .
You put up great 👍 detailed videos keep it up 👍 my wife drives this car it helps
Me.
Awesome! Thank you!
Great close up camera work
Thank you!
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
@@CleverFix You're welcome
very good vid 10/10
Great Video 👍👍✔💯💯
Thank you 👍
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Valeu gostei
Muy bien video, solo hay un detalle donde esta el hule o la goma de uno de los pines, por el espacio que queda en el puede producir ruido
Thans 😆
Blue locktite on the bolts. What about the rear? Re lube the shoe ears and where the calipers contact the shoes. Match Mark your rotor to the hub if you remove them. Overall a good video. Well done.
perfect video ! thanks !
1x quesiton here, lets say u have rear electronic brake, can u still remove screws, rubber and lubricate without computer,
thanks!
hi do u use the rubber boot for the pin??? it hard to move with rubber boot
Hey Guys! ClearFix is here and today I'm gonna show you how to lubricate the caliper pins.
You make awesome videos!
I installed new brakes, rotors and rubber boots 2 years ago.
I live in Chicago but only drive 6k miles annually. How often would you suggest I lube the slide pins and file the rust out of the caliper brackets?
My brakes have been great; thank you for the excellent videos teaching me how to enjoy automotive maintenance
Awesome👍 I lubricate the pins and make sure brakes are sliding easily every 2 years. I found that on my car after 1 year of using silicone grease, it's still lubricated well enough when I take it apart the next year. After 2 years it starts to get "sticky" and isn't sliding as good. 4 years is definitely way too long to wait, but the conditions are harsh here, lots of salt. I use summer/winter tires, so when I switch tires over is a good time for me to check everything, since I'm removing the wheel anyway. If they get sticky, pads and rotors wear out faster and that's money down the drain, so it's worth to check on them every 2 years for me.
@@CleverFix
Do you have any strong opinions on which lube to use?
In the video you're using a Molyslip silicone lube. Your link is for a similar but different product.
Any strong opinion on anti sieze?
If not I'll just go with an affordable Permatex
@@joewhattoff8754 I like silicone. Brand shouldn't really make a big difference. 3M is a good brand, but I couldn't get the 3M silicone here for a good price. As long as it's for brakes and it's silicone based, I'd use it. The ceramic one had surprisingly good reviews that's why I put the link, but I haven't tried it. I've tried other Permatex "brake lubricant" stuff that was not good though.. It didn't really specify what kind of lubricant it was, but it just dried up and became sticky very fast. That's the problem with all non-silicone I tried, the pins stop sliding easily in just a few months.
@@CleverFix I was just doing my homework on the Permatex ultra brake lube I used last time on my slide pins. It's not silicone and many reviews said it swelled up the rubber bushings and caused issues. I am curious to see what it did to the rubber boots and rubber piece on the end of the slide pins.
I have ordered some Sil-Glyde
@@joewhattoff8754 Yeah I read the same thing in the reviews, and I think that's the one I've used as well , and it didn't work very well at all. I'm not sure if mine was "ultra", but it was definitely Permatex Brake Lube, I think green color on the label. Can't go wrong with Syl Glyde, lots of people like it. I'm just about to upload the belt video finally!!
Clean the calliper pin holes out using blunt screwdriver and clean rag. By pushing and twisting it in it will clean the inner surface . You must be carefull not to score the sides.
No, go to walmart cleaning section, next to mops, get a vent brush, use L.A. Awesome cleaner full strength. Rinse well, dry, lube. Brush fits perfectly.
Can you make a video on how to replace airbag on this same car ? I bought a salvage for my wife and it didn’t come with the airbag on the driver side that light on my dashboard and I would like to either replace it or renew it so I can take it to emissions split can pass next year can you advise me on this subject,
Call these guys www.lkqcorp.com/buyparts/ to find the closest one to you and check for the parts you need, they should have a steering wheel airbag if that's the one. Then sign up on alldatadiy.com/ use coupon 55DIY and for $20 you get a 1 year membership. Removing steering airbag should be quite simple just be careful not to damage the connectors, they are kind of fragile.
Where is the damper rubber of the one pin ,you should have that on there
Correcto por eso afecta, al frenar hace un ruido
That's missing
theres a rubber ring missing on the shorter pin
Hi. Thanks for the vid. One caliper bolt has a rubber and the other is solid.
Is it a problem if you replace them in the incorrect hole?, or does a specific one strictly needs to to go on top/bottom.
See my other video: ua-cam.com/video/BE1MdwJ_cQY/v-deo.html at 5:10 , The one with the rubber gasket has to go in the proper hole otherwise it won't fit in properly, the holes are not the same size.
Rubber pin in bottom hole on the front. In the rear they should both have the rubber.
What is the parts number piston caliper kits 4af toyota corolla small body thanks you
because they always have the bad habit of sanding the pieces in order to wash them well as they should
I have 2009 Scion XD, similar to corolla. I face the same caliper pin sticking problem. I free up the pin but it destroyed the rubber sleeve. I cleaned the bore but I am thinking to use without sleeve for test. I think Toyota break Caliper design has problem. I have 2015 Camry and its rear passenger side break caliper stuck after 5 yrs and 30K miles which is premature failure.
The design is OK if you don't live in a place where they salt the roads. But with all the salt we get, it freezes up quick. I'm replacing the rubber boots every time I do brakes now because they do "wear out" by loosening up and letting water through.
The two slider rods are different, as one is machined to hold a rubber tip at its end. Please tell me what is the reason for this? I took out these on one caliper in order to lubricate them and now I cannot reinsert the one with the rubber end in its original hole unless the rubber tip is removed. Do these rubber tip swell as they age? What is the purpose of these rubber tips. Thank you.
The rubber is anti-rattle, so that the cliper doesn't make noises when going over bumps. They shouldn't swell, but if the wrong lubricant is used then they do. I never had a problem putting them back, but if they're worn out they don't go in too easily and they can feel sticky/ won't slide easily.
Here's more info: ua-cam.com/video/_CjMUZDyt-I/v-deo.html He's right, the rubber does tend to stick the caliper as it wears out.. I'm using silicone lubricant now and haven't had a problem since, but when I was using other lubricants this rubber would always swell. I've checked it after 1 year and it's ok..
I removed the rear brakes to lube the slide pins but I can't get the pistons to retract.
I had this problem 2 years ago when I installed these brake pads + rotors.
The rubber seal protector is twisted around the piston but I don't think that's the problem. I tried turning the bleeder valve a quarter turn and pressing the brake pedal down. It let it shine fluid but that didn't seem to fix it.
Any suggestions?
Maybe I should use a wrench to get more power when turning.?
Sorry I just saw this now, you must've fixed it by now.. Was it the rear brakes? They don't retract unless they're turned and pushed at the same time.
Ok I just realized you said rear brakes.. so, yes as I said in the other comment, the trick is to push a little, turn, push a little turn, with the retract tool. I have it filmed, but the entire replacement didn't come out so great, perhaps I should just publish the retracting of the piston part.. you're the second that left a comment about it.
How to.correclty tighten the caliper bolts
With a torque wrench, to the torque specified for your car.
Can it be replaced with joint grease?
I like Silicone based brake grease best. Petroleum based grease can damage rubber, so it should not be used. Make sure not to use petroleum based grease on the rubber boots, it can make them well up.
Will it be a problem if I remove the rubber seal on the bottom pin? I found that my caliper cannot move freely with the rubber swelling up.
I removed mine for that reason.. it is there to eliminate noise and rattling, but I'm not getting any rattling without it. I haven't had it in for a few years and it's fine.
As an alternative if you want to keep it, a new one should help. They should be pretty cheap at the dealer. I guess they age and then start to bind and get the pin stuck. That's what I've noticed. At first it was sliding good but as time passed, it got worse.
You or someone probably used the wrong grease for the calliper pins. This would cause the rubber to swell. I suggest you replace the rubber and use silicone grease. Sticking pins will cause your brakes to stick on causing more wear and possible brake judder.
@@alanfrancis9225 I found that rubber quite seized up after 2 years, bought the car new.. I thought 2 years is OK to leave it without lubing .. it wasn't. A bit unusual. I think the design is not so great, so they need lubricating every year. The rubber does seem to swell for some reason.. new one is very cheap though. Front caliper also rusted so quick, while the back still looks good.
@@alanfrancis9225 Never agreed with you more. However, I have taken the other route of removing the rubber sleeve and it had been some time and it works perfectly.
Could you use ceramic paste on guide and sliding pins instead of silicon or copper paste?
Yes, I have added a link to a good ceramic lubricant in the video description. I've used ceramic lube before and it worked great, but you have to be careful with it not to apply too much. If there's too much, it will stop the pin from sliding easily, because it's quite thick. Silicone lube is a little more forgiving because it's thinner, but they both work very well when used correctly. Thanks for the question.
Also, never use copper antiseize on pins! There is copper brake lubricant that would work, but copper antiseize is a big no no for sliding pins.
@@CleverFix Careful, some ceramic greases will cause the rubber on the boots and rubber anti vibration on the pin to swell up (Permatex Purple Ceramic Extreme). Recommended to use silicone only base if it will contact rubber. If you google around you'll find other with swelling issues with permatex purple. Happened on two of my vehicles using the purple ceramic on sliding pins.
Mfg. specs a glycol based grease, Silicone is petroleum based. The bushings and boots will swell. Replace them with new.
There's a lengthy comment that I've responded to already regarding lubricants in case you're interested. This lubricant has been working the best of anything I've tried in the past, it resists washout and prevents rust very very well.. also "Silicone is not petroleum-based. It is a synthetic polymer made primarily from silicon, oxygen, carbon, and hydrogen." It didn't harm the rubber at all.
@@CleverFix Thanks for responding, I missed that comment.
My Interwebz research indicates that the Silicone is the soap, and there may still a petroleum lubricant component (for most brands). "Doesn't harm the rubber" - I agree that silicone lubricants seem to be not as bad, but the swelling may not be obvious to the eye, unless old and new are set side by side (it isn't like they melt).
In a Prius one expects the replacement interval to be long enough that the rubber will begin to age just due to ozone, etc. I look at it like the DOT code on tires - 6 yrs old is probably too old regardless of treadwear.
In addition, my Prius is now my hobby, so I am not trying to make money, and I like to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
I think Toyota engineering identified a problem here, and found a solution. The little tube of pink lube will be part of my Estate. Thanks for posting the video!
@@jamesalles139 It probably depends on the silicone formulation as you mention.. and yes replacing the boots is a great idea. I neglected this on previous cars I've had, and always ended up with seized calipers, without knowing why. The OEM grease that came with my new Corolla washed out completely very fast, and I ended up finding seized calipers as well as prematurely worn pads..Never had that happen in the first two years on any other new car. So since then, I've tried various greases, determined to find something better than OEM. I've tried two silicone brands and both lasted very nicely, so I'm pretty convinced that silicone is superior to other types of grease. The brake design on this car is ancient and not very good in my opinion, so that's the real problem. I'm doing the lube every two years now with silicone and I'm finding it sliding perfectly after 2 years every time. I was thinking to use OEM on one side and silicone on the other to compare, but I'm not sure if many people care.
@@CleverFix yes - that is the experimenting I am doing now. And BTW, the tube of Toyota 'Rubber Grease' can be had for half the price at a Wholesale Direct / Modern Toyota. Happy Trails to you!
@@CleverFix And another thing, (just a thought as I recover after the dealer's botched brake job) maybe a swollen boot contributed to the washout? Do you put grease in the grooves the boot seats in?
Is that this pin can cause noise when braking at 20-0 km/h ?
No, the pins don't make any noise. If you have a squealing noise then you probably have a brake warning clip that causes a squeal when the pads are worn out.. I have a brake pad video that shows that clips. ua-cam.com/video/BE1MdwJ_cQY/v-deo.html
The pins can cause a grinding noise if dry
@@joe-ku5hd what about a cracking noise like someone squeezing a empty water bottle ?
My 2008 Corolla makes a grinding noise with revolutions only when coming to a gradual stop. The only thing that fixes it is cleaning and regreasing the slide pins, which our shop has done a few times. Obviously after reading up on it we need to purchase new.
What happens if I reinstall the pins backwards
You mean the top one on the bottom and the bottom on top?
It won’t install properly because one of the pin is longer, you can tell when you try to put the caliber back it isn’t flushed
@@SneakerRant On most cars the caliper carrier is common to both sides of the car and pins the same length .
How much would a pair of these new calipers pins cost?
I'm guessing around $15-20 for the two at the dealer.. for $80 I can get a whole rebuild bracket+caliper though.
The slide pin is 14mm not 17mm.
Mine was 17.. The bolt is 14 but once the bolt is off the end of the pin is larger.
@@CleverFix well mine is 14mm
@@garyv2196 ibb.co/8cx2w4j see pic, that's for 2014. What year Corolla?
No 17 mm pin 14 mm bolt standard for most cars.
Dude there’s not way your 2014 Corolla looks that damn rusty
I wish!
Rear calipers did much better than front.. I can show you some 2018 Hyundai Calipers that are 2X more rusted than mine.. very crazy. This is no Florida weather, Toronto gets crazy amount of salt in the winter.. if you don't paint them, they'll rust good. Should've painted as soon as I got the car.
Dude! Wrong lube in both places. That Si grease will swell and damage the rubber boots, and copper anti-sieze is for high temp fastener threads not flat rusty faces. Lithium soap based glycol grease brake lube for pins & boots (&pistons & seals), and Si brake grease for clips & tabs.
I just checked them before winter started, and they're still sliding perfectly after 2 years, I haven't re-lubed them yet, and there's no damage to the rubber. It's performing the best of any grease I've tried.
Also, it is quite well known that silicone is compatible with rubber. Where did you find that silicone is not compatible with rubber? The anti-seize under the shim is just to slow down rust.. if you have better ideas let me know.
@@CleverFix Yes, I think the Si lube may not swell the rubber, but it may, depending on the additives used in the particular grease. Hard to know as companies tend to keep that all secret. The safest way is to use the service recommended lubricant which is the Lithium soap based glycol grease brake lube. As I said the other surfaces can use the Si grease.
@@colinellicott9737 My pins almost seized completely and wore out the pads prematurely a little over 2 years after buying the car new, this is why I decided to try something different. It's partly my fault for not checking it every year, but I've never had that happen so fast before.
Here's the Molyslip PDF: www.molyslip.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/DATA-SHEET-5250-5259-Silicone-Lube.pdf , they recommend it for rubber, as long as it's not silicone rubber. Syl-Glide is also a silicone lubricant that mentions it is safe on rubber and 3M Silicone paste. So I'm trusting the manufacturers advice, and reviews, but I agree if you want the safest then use OEM Lithium Soap grease. I added a note in the video description and links to it. I tried a few other non-silicone products in the past, and they dried out fast, and one did swell the boots also, so I know it's important to use the right grease. So far silicone is working the best of anything I've tried. I live in Canada and the roads are harsh though.
Show us something useful next time those pins didn't need lubricating.
Just because they're not rusted in that you need a torch to get them out doesn't need they don't need lubricating. They were sticking, they should slide perfectly easily with almost no force. I've had it happen with the OE brakes, 2 years in they were already seizing up... I decided I'd do it every year since that happened. If you want to wait until they need lubricating, it's too late already.