I was surprised to see that you weren’t concerned about the vane directions. Working on Mercury’s, that was a major issue. Is that due to the SMX impeller or for all the impellers (Sherwood OE)?
I think it's only an issue if you put the impeller in the wrong way and let it sit for a very long time. As you can see with the backing plate off of the pump, the vanes have no issues flipping to either direction. If you installed a used old impeller that was trained one way, probably a good idea to keep it the same way. But with a new impeller, on an engine you will be firing up in short order... Don't worry about it.
Hi ... good video looks like you know your stuff, previously been told to use petroleum jelly, but can follow your logic when you say to use synthetic grease, can you give a grade/type of synthetic grease to use.
Tony's theory is that any lube is better than none. Petroleum jelly and other petroleum based oils and greases can break down many rubber products over time, however, generally the life span of an impeller along with the thorough and continual rinse it receives when in use, means that the petroleum will never really have time to cause any problems to the rubber. So if that's all you have handy it's totally fine. Using a good quality synthetic grease is ideal, super lube o ring grease is a good example.
This is a good video for general tips and techniques but doesn't really help when you are installing the impellers real world on the boat. What a pain in the rear end. Almost impossible. A good tip is to use zip ties to compress the vanes so that you can get the impeller started into the pump opening then carefully cut the zip ties with side cutters as you push the impeller into the housing. Tony should develop a thin wall metal horn funnel that is a smaller diameter than the pump opening so you can push the impeller in then slide out the funnel leaving the impeller in place. I have some design concepts if interested.
I was surprised to see that you weren’t concerned about the vane directions. Working on Mercury’s, that was a major issue. Is that due to the SMX impeller or for all the impellers (Sherwood OE)?
I think it's only an issue if you put the impeller in the wrong way and let it sit for a very long time. As you can see with the backing plate off of the pump, the vanes have no issues flipping to either direction. If you installed a used old impeller that was trained one way, probably a good idea to keep it the same way. But with a new impeller, on an engine you will be firing up in short order... Don't worry about it.
Hi ... good video looks like you know your stuff, previously been told to use petroleum jelly, but can follow your logic when you say to use synthetic grease, can you give a grade/type of synthetic grease to use.
Tony's theory is that any lube is better than none. Petroleum jelly and other petroleum based oils and greases can break down many rubber products over time, however, generally the life span of an impeller along with the thorough and continual rinse it receives when in use, means that the petroleum will never really have time to cause any problems to the rubber. So if that's all you have handy it's totally fine. Using a good quality synthetic grease is ideal, super lube o ring grease is a good example.
what if the impeller is not turning. Bad gear or bad impeller splines?
That is a good question for our forum. www.sbmar.com/community totally free.
Tool for cat 3406 impeller pulling ?
Sorry we don't do CAT's maybe someone else can reply.
This is a good video for general tips and techniques but doesn't really help when you are installing the impellers real world on the boat. What a pain in the rear end. Almost impossible. A good tip is to use zip ties to compress the vanes so that you can get the impeller started into the pump opening then carefully cut the zip ties with side cutters as you push the impeller into the housing. Tony should develop a thin wall metal horn funnel that is a smaller diameter than the pump opening so you can push the impeller in then slide out the funnel leaving the impeller in place. I have some design concepts if interested.
So you need no gasket
Just the O ring, and if you remove the pump, you will need a gasket where the pump mounts on the engine.
For sure anti-seize