Very useful video, I think I will gut the original woofers and still utilise the stock connectors soldering rather than cutting into the harness to keep that 'stock' look.
No it doesn’t void the warranty, changing the speakers would be considered a replacement part- it will though void the warranty on the factory fitted speakers 🙃and if any installation damages any part of the factory sound system then that too won’t be covered.
This is great. Thank you so much for your hard work on this. Really appreciate. I have an SE version which does not have cabling to the rear doors. Do you think one could easily adapt your solution to add rear speakers? Do you know if the car unit would accept the extra speakers?
Hi, thanks for the comment. You can just run another set of cables directly from the fronts as a simple fix, or get a small 4 channel amplifier that connects to the front speaker output from the head unit (the controller box with all the connections is behind the glovebox)- there is a plug and play adapter from Audiotec Fischer (MATCH PP-PAM 07) that is reported to work with plug and play amps but I haven’t investigated properly yet as have been happy with the sound improvements so far.
@@alankemp1970 Thank you for your graceful suggestions. The PP-PAM 07 would basically work as a split from the front speaker output into a 4 channel amp right? This type of of amp would need to get some power from somewhere, right?
@@GuitarCry it’s a plug and play set up so is designed to take power from the main head unit and works with amps that are designed for the same set up, Vibe for instance do a small 4 channel amp for this setup. Check out (www.mgevs.com) and my thread here: (www.mgevs.com/threads/mg4-trophy-speaker-upgrade.10440/). There are other threads on here with more details about the amplifier upgrades and adding speakers to the rear of the SE.
Hi Alan, nice Work! But I have a question: Is it possible, that you can show how to remove and replace the plastic cover on the tailgate? I can't find a way to remove it, without damaging it... :( Would be nice! Thank you!
Awesome video. I'm not very hands on with this kind of stuff so I'm gonna have to pay a professional to do mine. Only got my MG4 SE last week. How much would you (or any other professional) charge for this kind of work?
Hello, thank you for your work. Do you have a reference to give for single twitters? I've already changed my speakers before but I'm looking for the tweeters and their diameter. THANKS.
Hi, thanks for watching glad it was helpful. I haven’t got round to trying an amp yet, the sound is vastly improved with this speaker upgrade so I haven’t felt the urge to get on with it. I’ll get on with some more planned projects over the next few months so will see if I can include the amp upgrade.
Cheers. It is in the dash under the tweeter, rapped in foam and wedged in the gap under the tweeter, the subtitles flashed up a bit quick for the explanation 🙃, the crossover looks like the tweeter you can see it being stuffed in just before clipping the tweeter grill back in.
Hi, the speakers were new unboxed from eBay at £35 fronts £30 rears. I already had a roll of closed cell foam so around £20 worth used. Plus a few Wago connectors. £80 ish all in for me. There are links to the Vibe speakers in the description
Thanks for the great video Alan! I just finished installing the tweeters and front door speakers, it sounds so much better! I went all in with Dynamat sound dampening...spent most of the time doing that actually. Question with the rear speakers, do you know if they use exactly the same spacer/screw mounts as the front doors? I found a 3d printable spacer which works for the front, just wondering if it will be the same for the rear.
Hi there, thanks for this video! Very informative. I barely know anything about car audio, so I wanted to ask, are your speakers actually 6" in diameter? I'm finding it super hard to find 6" speakers. Rather, the 6.5" size seems more commonplace. Could they actually be the same size, marketed as 6"? Or did you encounter the same issue and had to put the effort into finding 6-inchers?
Hi, thanks for the comment. They are 6.5”, I think some are labelled 6” but the actual cage measurements are 6.5” and the speaker cone is 6” and some are labelled up as 6.5” and the cone is 6”. Confusing 😵💫. The Vibes I used fit the original speaker mounts. Hope that’s not even more confusing 🫤
@@alankemp1970 Absolutely not! These sizing issues seem too normal in a lot of gadgets and trinkets nowadays, I've come to expect it hahah. Thanks for your help Alan! I've got an MG4 on the way, and it won't be a moment too soon til I'm upgrading the audio lol. Cheers from Mexico!
Рік тому
Great job Alan, thanks!! For those who just want to upgrade the MG4 tweeters, which ones/sizes do you recommend? and for a newbie in car audio, how to learn about this "crossover" stuff? is just a question of connexions?
Hi Marcos, you can get tweeters that are ready to fit with out a crossover, they have a high pass capacitor built in (same as the original one). That is basically what the crossover module is, it’s fairly simple to wire up a crossover. They have an input that you connect the wires from the car to (the ones in the dashboard) then an output to connect to the new tweeter. The one I used also have an output for the bass/mid speaker but I didn’t use that and connected the door speakers directly to the existing wiring to keep it simple. The Vibe crossover is small compared to some which makes it easier to fit in the dashboard hole. Size wise you may find a tweeter that fits without having to modify the mount too much, original tweeter is 4.1cm and the Vibe one I used is 4.3cm.
is there any Signal line out for active subwoofer on the radio.. anyone know about that.. I would love to have a small activ woofer under front seats. link my only Mini Cooper had.
Hi, no aux out for subwoofer you have to take the feed from the speaker outputs to add a sub amp. The head unit (original amp) is behind the glovebox so fairly easy to access, I was going to put an amp and sub in but happy with the sound as is, I may add an amp at some point but for now the improvement in sound is really good. The sound dampening I did in the door panels makes a big difference to the bass, much fuller and with a nice clean punch, passengers think there is a sub in the system.
@@alankemp1970 did you installed lige for passanger.. i wander why they have forgot that to. and with a dark cabine and tindet windows it is really dark.
@@tommyjakobsen5504I haven’t installed a rear interior light yet, I did upgrade the front with LED bulbs and that casts more light into the rear so better. It’s on my list to do though. I did an upgrade on my MG ZS though ua-cam.com/video/Cmf2Ws9Ssco/v-deo.htmlsi=kxee4QkQI6lU3L2o There are a couple of other videos on my channel two
Hi, yes, you can buy some universal spacers (need to be spaced to avoid the window mechanism) or cut your own from some wood or plastic to bring the speakers out to the same position as the originals. Use the original mounts as a template to get the mounting holes correctly positioned. I gutted the originals as a simpler option as we wouldn’t be reinstalling them.
I have a question about the small panel with windows button on drivers doors, I noticed yours is Gloss is that an upgrade in Trophy version? mine is the SE and it is matt black
@@alankemp1970 i do have the padding and blue stitching just the pastic looks very plain, I will try wrapping it gloss black and will see how it goes. Thanks for a reply
Just wondering... Why not utilize leads from the original speaker and solder new speaker to the inner side of it? This way you wouldn't need to cut the factory connector and put these orange ones...
Keeps it simple and have the ability to swap out speakers to try different set ups. Also it’s not good practice to use solder in automotive wiring as it’s prone to crack due to movement and vibration, crimping or compression termination is more suited.
@@PickyVeganBass you can get some double male/female automotive crimp connectors to replace them. I have been using the clip type I used here on my sailboat recently so had them to hand (converted it to electric drive).
so satisfying see you work, thanks for sharing
Very useful video, I think I will gut the original woofers and still utilise the stock connectors soldering rather than cutting into the harness to keep that 'stock' look.
Thanks for the video looking forward to your amp mod.
Great video, thanks for all this works done
Enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing
Glad it was useful.
Have you looked into the MG warranty? Does replacing the speakers void the car's warranty?
No it doesn’t void the warranty, changing the speakers would be considered a replacement part- it will though void the warranty on the factory fitted speakers 🙃and if any installation damages any part of the factory sound system then that too won’t be covered.
Excellent video. Huge thanks.
The sound system on the stock isn't the best. You could go into business with this. 😅
Glad you liked it!
Nice video, thank you.
This is great. Thank you so much for your hard work on this. Really appreciate. I have an SE version which does not have cabling to the rear doors. Do you think one could easily adapt your solution to add rear speakers? Do you know if the car unit would accept the extra speakers?
Hi, thanks for the comment. You can just run another set of cables directly from the fronts as a simple fix, or get a small 4 channel amplifier that connects to the front speaker output from the head unit (the controller box with all the connections is behind the glovebox)- there is a plug and play adapter from Audiotec Fischer (MATCH PP-PAM 07) that is reported to work with plug and play amps but I haven’t investigated properly yet as have been happy with the sound improvements so far.
@@alankemp1970 Thank you for your graceful suggestions. The PP-PAM 07 would basically work as a split from the front speaker output into a 4 channel amp right? This type of of amp would need to get some power from somewhere, right?
@@GuitarCry it’s a plug and play set up so is designed to take power from the main head unit and works with amps that are designed for the same set up, Vibe for instance do a small 4 channel amp for this setup.
Check out (www.mgevs.com) and my thread here: (www.mgevs.com/threads/mg4-trophy-speaker-upgrade.10440/). There are other threads on here with more details about the amplifier upgrades and adding speakers to the rear of the SE.
Hi Alan, nice Work! But I have a question: Is it possible, that you can show how to remove and replace the plastic cover on the tailgate? I can't find a way to remove it, without damaging it... :( Would be nice! Thank you!
Awesome video. I'm not very hands on with this kind of stuff so I'm gonna have to pay a professional to do mine. Only got my MG4 SE last week. How much would you (or any other professional) charge for this kind of work?
Hello, thank you for your work. Do you have a reference to give for single twitters? I've already changed my speakers before but I'm looking for the tweeters and their diameter.
THANKS.
www.amazon.fr/tweeters-Compatible-diam%C3%A8tre-imp%C3%A9dance-sensibilit%C3%A9/dp/B093X1L666/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.9f0ef8a5-48f2-4577-aba6-f9dd6305476b%3Aamzn1.sym.9f0ef8a5-48f2-4577-aba6-f9dd6305476b&cv_ct_cx=Focal+Tweeters&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.U4PZmiAMmPaobP3cWvQMXhf5vMq-fsRkuWJTZbsiVJD4LcMS8AKYgOiPgYdVYMJ-9bQLc0XSnBYc3V5lOdGtdg.RnOVu0TaDAOGcZ8apHZ6jBZB5S2rYBQnH07sydnIzr8&dib_tag=se&keywords=Focal+Tweeters&pd_rd_i=B093X1L666&pd_rd_r=1ded5272-0378-43a5-9a53-de1dccfe984f&pd_rd_w=zr0sX&pd_rd_wg=XJ2lB&pf_rd_p=9f0ef8a5-48f2-4577-aba6-f9dd6305476b&pf_rd_r=BNJPJ4CBHV6P54B27M09&qid=1723812267&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-1-86ee67e3-2ea6-4725-8419-71cfe38eb657-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1#customerReviews
???
Good job
Hello Alan, thanks for the great video, it is awsome. Have you already install amplifier to your MG4 ? If yes could you please share with us ?
Hi, thanks for watching glad it was helpful. I haven’t got round to trying an amp yet, the sound is vastly improved with this speaker upgrade so I haven’t felt the urge to get on with it. I’ll get on with some more planned projects over the next few months so will see if I can include the amp upgrade.
Nice video, thank you. May I ask you where did you put the cross on?
Cheers. It is in the dash under the tweeter, rapped in foam and wedged in the gap under the tweeter, the subtitles flashed up a bit quick for the explanation 🙃, the crossover looks like the tweeter you can see it being stuffed in just before clipping the tweeter grill back in.
@@alankemp1970 wow, I didn't cacth up a bit. thanks again.
Nice job. What do you reckon the all up cost was for the upgrade?
Hi, the speakers were new unboxed from eBay at £35 fronts £30 rears. I already had a roll of closed cell foam so around £20 worth used. Plus a few Wago connectors. £80 ish all in for me.
There are links to the Vibe speakers in the description
Thanks for the great video Alan! I just finished installing the tweeters and front door speakers, it sounds so much better! I went all in with Dynamat sound dampening...spent most of the time doing that actually. Question with the rear speakers, do you know if they use exactly the same spacer/screw mounts as the front doors? I found a 3d printable spacer which works for the front, just wondering if it will be the same for the rear.
Hi there, thanks for this video! Very informative. I barely know anything about car audio, so I wanted to ask, are your speakers actually 6" in diameter? I'm finding it super hard to find 6" speakers. Rather, the 6.5" size seems more commonplace. Could they actually be the same size, marketed as 6"? Or did you encounter the same issue and had to put the effort into finding 6-inchers?
Hi, thanks for the comment. They are 6.5”, I think some are labelled 6” but the actual cage measurements are 6.5” and the speaker cone is 6” and some are labelled up as 6.5” and the cone is 6”. Confusing 😵💫. The Vibes I used fit the original speaker mounts. Hope that’s not even more confusing 🫤
@@alankemp1970 Absolutely not! These sizing issues seem too normal in a lot of gadgets and trinkets nowadays, I've come to expect it hahah. Thanks for your help Alan!
I've got an MG4 on the way, and it won't be a moment too soon til I'm upgrading the audio lol.
Cheers from Mexico!
Great job Alan, thanks!! For those who just want to upgrade the MG4 tweeters, which ones/sizes do you recommend? and for a newbie in car audio, how to learn about this "crossover" stuff? is just a question of connexions?
Hi Marcos, you can get tweeters that are ready to fit with out a crossover, they have a high pass capacitor built in (same as the original one). That is basically what the crossover module is, it’s fairly simple to wire up a crossover. They have an input that you connect the wires from the car to (the ones in the dashboard) then an output to connect to the new tweeter. The one I used also have an output for the bass/mid speaker but I didn’t use that and connected the door speakers directly to the existing wiring to keep it simple. The Vibe crossover is small compared to some which makes it easier to fit in the dashboard hole. Size wise you may find a tweeter that fits without having to modify the mount too much, original tweeter is 4.1cm and the Vibe one I used is 4.3cm.
is there any Signal line out for active subwoofer on the radio.. anyone know about that.. I would love to have a small activ woofer under front seats. link my only Mini Cooper had.
Hi, no aux out for subwoofer you have to take the feed from the speaker outputs to add a sub amp. The head unit (original amp) is behind the glovebox so fairly easy to access, I was going to put an amp and sub in but happy with the sound as is, I may add an amp at some point but for now the improvement in sound is really good. The sound dampening I did in the door panels makes a big difference to the bass, much fuller and with a nice clean punch, passengers think there is a sub in the system.
@@alankemp1970 did you installed lige for passanger.. i wander why they have forgot that to. and with a dark cabine and tindet windows it is really dark.
@@tommyjakobsen5504I haven’t installed a rear interior light yet, I did upgrade the front with LED bulbs and that casts more light into the rear so better. It’s on my list to do though.
I did an upgrade on my MG ZS though
ua-cam.com/video/Cmf2Ws9Ssco/v-deo.htmlsi=kxee4QkQI6lU3L2o
There are a couple of other videos on my channel two
is it possible to put bigger speakers in doors as not to gut the original ones to mount in the existing holes on the door ?
Hi, yes, you can buy some universal spacers (need to be spaced to avoid the window mechanism) or cut your own from some wood or plastic to bring the speakers out to the same position as the originals. Use the original mounts as a template to get the mounting holes correctly positioned. I gutted the originals as a simpler option as we wouldn’t be reinstalling them.
@@alankemp1970 thanks
Did you try a aftermarket review camera as well? if you have any luck please let the viewers know.
I have the Trophy version so have rear view and 360° cameras as standard 🙂. I have added a dash cam though.
I have a question about the small panel with windows button on drivers doors, I noticed yours is Gloss is that an upgrade in Trophy version? mine is the SE and it is matt black
Hi, yes the Trophy has the gloss finish along with blue stitching on the upholstery and padding around the door handles/switches.
@@alankemp1970 i do have the padding and blue stitching just the pastic looks very plain, I will try wrapping it gloss black and will see how it goes. Thanks for a reply
@@MichalZowada I’m going to do the opposite and wrap it in a blue carbon fibre mat finish 🙃
@@alankemp1970 I would like to see it before I get mine done as maybe carbon would be a better choice
Just wondering... Why not utilize leads from the original speaker and solder new speaker to the inner side of it? This way you wouldn't need to cut the factory connector and put these orange ones...
Keeps it simple and have the ability to swap out speakers to try different set ups. Also it’s not good practice to use solder in automotive wiring as it’s prone to crack due to movement and vibration, crimping or compression termination is more suited.
@@alankemp1970I'm not a fan of cutting connectors. I'd think of a way to utilize the original connector in some way :) But that's me :)
@@PickyVeganBass you can get some double male/female automotive crimp connectors to replace them. I have been using the clip type I used here on my sailboat recently so had them to hand (converted it to electric drive).
Complimenti
All that for radio 4.
It makes a big difference to the clarity of the smooth voices on radio 4 too 😜😜😜