I don't know about really modern amps, but most commercial amps seem to go with the delayed output relay option - giving time for everything to settle down.
The first amp that you look at was also my first amp board ordered from China 8 years ago. I waited 3 months, plugged it in and immediately it died in smoke... Good times.
I think the reason for this pops is that the tpa3116 has a biased input at 3v. I have one diy amp with the same board as the first you tried. I made a circuit for the delay start, using the mute pin amd it works great. Only thing is, i couldnt figure a way to do it without a diod before the big capacitor i have, because i needed something to instantly change its state after i turn off the power. That lowers the voltage by a volt or so. I could have done it with a separate bridge rectifier for the delay schematic, but i dont know if using two bridge rectifiers on the same transformer is ok to do. I think the reason some amps with tpa3116 have lower pop and hiss, is because they changed the gain setting. Its easy to do with two resistors
Speaker sensitivity directly proportional to annoyance. A pair of 105+db horns will blow your goldfish off the table with what is a slight plop on your average speaker..
OH YEAH they will ! I have a pair of 104db drivers for use with SE tube amps (~13W*2) and seldom output more than 1watt. The old saying, "The first watt is the most important watt".
@@CraftAero Absolutely. Nothing beats a simple tube amp of quality and sensitive speakers... Well not much..Apart from Quad ESL57 electrostatics driven by a quality valve amp too.. Open Baffle high sensitivity also amazing.
@@martinda7446 I'm very interested in electrostatics. I hear they are incredible in the near range. Once the garage thaws out I'm going to build a pair of transmission speakers that I painstakingly designed over the winter (there was a LOT to learn). I'm hoping to coax a little more bass out of my 6L6 SE at low/mid volumes. I went with a full range Tang Band 8" driver (@95db). By calculation (lol) I should be able to drop the rated 42Hz down to ~32Hz. That would make me soooo happy ! The loss in efficiency only means I may have to run 4-5 watts instead of 1. I do love the valves !
@@CraftAero Excellent, I approve of the Tang Band. The Quads are jaw dropping magic if working right... The midrange pours out like liquid gold. Simply nothing better- 50 years in audio,
All of these amps and more I have tried connected to Tannoy Golden Monitors (BBC monitors). All of them cost less than a bottle of cheap booze in the UK. Why did I do this? A it cost almost nothing and B it was fun. I built my own linear supply (38V 10A). I also bought /made several pre amps and RIAA units. It's been great fun and I ended up with your favourite. It works so well I didn't even bother to change back to my Sansui amp (re capped). Been following you for years John but arouund 2/3 goes right over my head. Keep well, it's still nasty 'out there'.
the best class-d amplifier card so far is the L15D of the cheap ones and the hypex ucd180hg of the more expensive ones. but a class-ab like L12.2 is the one you should choose if you are looking for a cheap and good amplifier with good sound
Great video! But what is the reason for that hiss in speakers? TPA3116 has over 100dB SNR and surprisingly for me, it changes with different board. Could it be bad input/output filters? Or bad component layout overall?
I don't know about really modern amps, but most commercial amps seem to go with the delayed output relay option - giving time for everything to settle down.
The first amp that you look at was also my first amp board ordered from China 8 years ago. I waited 3 months, plugged it in and immediately it died in smoke... Good times.
I think the reason for this pops is that the tpa3116 has a biased input at 3v. I have one diy amp with the same board as the first you tried. I made a circuit for the delay start, using the mute pin amd it works great. Only thing is, i couldnt figure a way to do it without a diod before the big capacitor i have, because i needed something to instantly change its state after i turn off the power. That lowers the voltage by a volt or so. I could have done it with a separate bridge rectifier for the delay schematic, but i dont know if using two bridge rectifiers on the same transformer is ok to do. I think the reason some amps with tpa3116 have lower pop and hiss, is because they changed the gain setting. Its easy to do with two resistors
Speaker sensitivity directly proportional to annoyance. A pair of 105+db horns will blow your goldfish off the table with what is a slight plop on your average speaker..
OH YEAH they will !
I have a pair of 104db drivers for use with SE tube amps (~13W*2) and seldom output more than 1watt.
The old saying, "The first watt is the most important watt".
@@CraftAero Absolutely. Nothing beats a simple tube amp of quality and sensitive speakers... Well not much..Apart from Quad ESL57 electrostatics driven by a quality valve amp too.. Open Baffle high sensitivity also amazing.
@@martinda7446 I'm very interested in electrostatics. I hear they are incredible in the near range.
Once the garage thaws out I'm going to build a pair of transmission speakers that I painstakingly designed over the winter (there was a LOT to learn). I'm hoping to coax a little more bass out of my 6L6 SE at low/mid volumes. I went with a full range Tang Band 8" driver (@95db). By calculation (lol) I should be able to drop the rated 42Hz down to ~32Hz. That would make me soooo happy ! The loss in efficiency only means I may have to run 4-5 watts instead of 1. I do love the valves !
@@CraftAero Excellent, I approve of the Tang Band. The Quads are jaw dropping magic if working right... The midrange pours out like liquid gold. Simply nothing better- 50 years in audio,
@@CraftAero PS 6L6 is lovely.
All of these amps and more I have tried connected to Tannoy Golden Monitors (BBC monitors). All of them cost less than a bottle of cheap booze in the UK. Why did I do this? A it cost almost nothing and B it was fun. I built my own linear supply (38V 10A). I also bought /made several pre amps and RIAA units. It's been great fun and I ended up with your favourite. It works so well I didn't even bother to change back to my Sansui amp (re capped). Been following you for years John but arouund 2/3 goes right over my head. Keep well, it's still nasty 'out there'.
the best class-d amplifier card so far is the L15D of the cheap ones and the hypex ucd180hg of the more expensive ones.
but a class-ab like L12.2 is the one you should choose if you are looking for a cheap and good amplifier with good sound
Could you put a delay circuit and relay on the 'out' to the speaker, so it would connect to the speaker a second or two after power up ?
5:10 i have that red big board amplifier 🖖
you should definitely try the tda7498 (not E version, no bluetooth) i think it’s better for 8 ohm loads
Sounds like exciting things to come. Might have been nice to see the turn on pop on a scope for this video. Do some capturing.
which one has best frequency response ?
Hi! Have you tested the TDA8954 and if so, can you give me a link to the video? Thanks.
Great video!
But what is the reason for that hiss in speakers? TPA3116 has over 100dB SNR and surprisingly for me, it changes with different board. Could it be bad input/output filters? Or bad component layout overall?
Do these boards use genuine TI parts? It seems quite unlikely for the price.
Only popping get if air not coming out for speaker mixer dose
Thanks John!
can i have all of that amp board sir john? coz i really love music from Philippines
#ghettoaudiophile
A home for ya old stuff😎
would be funny to have on the bench a can of turn on pop (soda) or diet turn on pop ..it pops when you open the can ..lol
interesting video, pretty cool!