Some of these new Class-D chips have Single-ended, Bridge-Tied-Load and Parallel-Bridge-Tied-Load configurations. The PBTL configurations can be a real pain to layout on PCB sometimes but my current favorite is a TPA3255 with an OPA1632 on the analog inputs to keep it from randomly hitting overcurrent protection at high power. The TPA chips with their protection circuits really love having perfectly balanced inputs for some reason and the OP1632 fully-differential op-amp works great for this.
John I want to say thank you for making this video and the amplifier pop on sounds video you made convinced me to get the TDA7498e. I found it normally around 10USD, but with some deal hunting and waiting I got it down to about 5USD making it my cheapest amplifier purchase to date. Currently testing it with a 19V 45w laptop charger with great results and its way better than any of my other Class D amp boards. It has some slight differences to the one you have. Biggest one is that it has a green PCB. Other differences include a different style screw terminal that's smaller, pin header gain control instead of switches, no included nylon standoffs, and reversed RCA inputs (Red on Left and White on Right). The reversed color RCA inputs tripped me up, but its ok since just a simple cable swap fixes that. Its pretty quiet with no audio playing, no pop sounds on power on, and best of all it doesn't have the auto mute after being silent for a while that a lot of TPA3116 boards have that can make the first second or two after playing something again to be only silence which I find particularly annoying especially for video. Thanks again.
Definitely would respect your professional opinion reviewing the TPA3255 used in some low-cost boards. Your suggestions over the last 5 years have led to great results so far.
Hi there John. I had also bought this amp some years ago and i have tested on 6ohm load diy 2way loudspeaker and i can say it sounded pretty good. Good bass response and overall good mid and high. But i guess it have some more detail in the highs in 8ohm. I have tested the amp on around 30-32v dc on a linear powersupply. Also tested on a switched 360w 36v on 2x 4 ohm subwoofers with good punch resultts. Higly reccomended cheap amp dor dc psu or dual 12v battery in serie to 24v. Thanks for the very informative and honest videos.
@Dumpfbrumsel i´m thinking of combining cllass d on the bass mid level and class abb tda7377 or tda7379 4ch brudge to 2ch .And they can work good around 12v to 18v or on a simple dc laptop adapter but that will be some mixed up power options but 24v battery is a very good startpoint for many little powerful amp board like tda7492p simple 2ch amp or tpa3118d2 or tda3116d2. But my two favorites are tda7498e and tda7492p without the bt module.
Testing it only on a speaker is no good ters. Some of the ones I have. (TDA-7492) (TPA-3116) (L15D) If you compare those with middle class, clasd-ab amplifiers from the 70's 80's 90's so the vast majority of Class-ab have better sound than the new cheap class-d has. Class-ab that does not have good sound (Name NAP250 clone) (Qad405 clone) class-ab that HAS good sound (L12-2) (L15) (L20)
If you are looking for a good class-d for a bass speaker then the L15D is a good amplifier for bass. It measures 150w in 4 ohms. with a large enough 50v-0v-50 power supply. Watts reding on aliexpresd and ebay are in 10%THD and do not count.
Class D amps are interesting. Back in the 80's I used to work on ways to transmit audio using PWM and we used to listen to the Beegees, Beatles, Rolling Stones, etc as a test signal :-)
Full range speakers, sure. It's a bit different for multiple speaker cabinets with passive crossover circuitry. It would ideally look pretty flat(but realistically would have bumps around the crossover frequencies).
Thanks John. Mouser has this as STEVAL-CCA044V1 listed at $76.25. What could the big difference be? The chip is only $6.39. There is another version rated @ 100w + 100w listed as a TDA7498TDR FOR $8.11. Very sorry about Snickers passing. He was a very sweet cat. I too have lost many cats in the past and I still miss them all. We have 4 cats, 1 is hers 2 are ours and 1 is mine. All strays. God always keeps us plenty of companions around.
I looked up the STEVAL-CCA044V1. I'd guess they are likely using better parts. I still think about Snickers every so often. I hope to get another cat when things settle down in my life.
@@JohnAudioTech I've always found that a cat will show up when it's time. The last time I missed having a cat around I found the nicest tuxedo kitten running around the parking lot of my old job. She knew I wanted a buddy and found me.
@@bugdrvr That's my thinking as well. Snickers showed up at my parents' house. My parents once had a tux named Bo. If a cat could have a full personality, it was Bo.
Hi John, just got one, exactly like yours (Sanwu at the bottom of PCB, same brand of fan) negligible hissing (even very close to my ear) with Dell 20V/4.5 A (ADP-90FB revB) very nice sounding amplifier for $17.92 plus $3 shipping cost and $1.60 CA tax . Not bad at all.
OK, my measurements on 4 Ohm load in parallel output - PBTL MONO mode (with jumpers J1 to J4 set to ON), clean output power like you measure it, just below fuzzies: at 24V Ucc ..... Pout = 60,6W at 27V Ucc ..... Pout = 70,2W at 32V Ucc ..... Pout = 101,3W at 36V Ucc ..... Pout = 135,2W The distortion (checked with FFT of oscilloscope) is around 1% I am very very impressed. I paid for it 14€. (I need it for bass instrumental amp so roll of at HF doesn't bother me)
did you saw the topping pa5? its a tpa3255 based amp that blew every other one away, even ones that were like many many times more expensive in terms of distortion and noise . its not ebay china board priced tho.
i once built a amp and used one of these modules, i hooked it up to my rectifier / cap bank and upon turning it on it blew the chip and traces around it. it did work before that.
I pre-ordered the Wuzhi/Sinilink 7498 amp last year, put it on 24v6A supply and it is still too loud in the Arizona heat! I Recommend most of the black boards, no matter the brand.
Those chееsy Chinа amps are for party speakers only. Class D itself _can_ sound better though. The additional complexity isn't really worth it for home HiFi as you don't need so much power at home in my opinion. For party or portable speakers class-D is quite good.
Properly made class D amps are amazing, I'm using 50W (25 with my 8 ohm speakers) ICE power I bought for like $100, it's pretty good and no hiss at all, I rarely listen at more than 40% loudness! I've also heard some great three way speakers with an active crossover, and tri-amped - two 50W class D amps (for lows and mids), and a 50W AB amp for highs. I have to admit that it sounded nicer and more powerful than exactly the same speakers with a single 400W amplifier and passive crossovers! It was "an upgrade" and all the parts together were cheaper than the 400W amplifier from before so it was pretty sick!
@@westelaudio943 Yes, a nice little amp. It's also very cheap when you buy just a module while big companies sell their amps with this exact module inside for thousands of dollars!
@@zlac Definitely one of the better switching amp modules, compared to all this red board Сhina pridе stuff. And even a schematic is available (a luxury these days). I though about buying one but I don't really have use for it ATM and it's pretty costly. I'm more into tube amps and 80s receivers for daily use.
Bought 2 of them for a 2.1 setup but the second Amp that I set as bridge died in few weeks. Probably I got a fake one because the marking on the PCB is XINRUI, unlike yours marked SANWU. Plus mine have the fan always on and found out that the supposed to be thermistor was replaced with just ordinary resistor.
you get the hiss when you connect the DC power supply from the mains, if you connect a battery you would have no noise, for a bluetooth portable speaker this would be fine
Hey John, I ordered a simple 36V 5A power supply "brick" for this. You were saying the 32 volts setting would make the unit last longer. Is there an easy way to just keep the input turned down or something to help if I still use the 36V supply?
Hi John thanks for your time and good info. I am on a budget and Iam trying to build a rear channel amp for my bus. How does this amp compare to the tda7293 as far as sound reproduction is concerned. I would use a boost converter to power the amp. I would be using apair of 6.5 and a tweeter per channel. Based on the cost to build this a similar amp bought would be over $100. Thanks any input would be appreciated.
Bridging strapping btl what ever you want to call it doesn't let you lower the impedance I have no idea why they say that the two channels see half the final load so you actually need to run it at higher impedance when strapped
He did explain this, the "BTL" label on the PCB is incorrect. The outputs are already bridged, the jumpers allow the two BTL outputs to be connected in parallel which doubles the current capacity of the combined output and allows lower impedance loads. The trade-off being you now have a mono amplifier so you'll need two of them for stereo.
Hey John, is it possible to wire up several of these mini amplifiers in series and say triple the output…….safely?? And if so what sort of power supply? Thanks.
Not really a practical way of doing this. They are already bridged for maximum power at a given supply voltage. I'd go for something that can take a 50v supply if you need more power.
Very interesting video, I have the same Tda7498e amplifier but I use a 32v 5A power supply. The fan on mine never turned on but I was also never able to turn the volume to maximum and I usually have the volume at less than half because if it was at maximum volume it would be unbearable, is it the reason why the fan doesn't turn on and the chip doesn't heat up enough to turn it on? I have a Technics SB-EX3 pair of speakers, they have 250W and 4 Ohm connected to this amplifier and the sound looks decent to me and without visible distortion but do you think this amplifier is more suitable for speakers of 8 Ohm load?
great video, I am currently using a 2.1 Bluetooth amp with the tpa3116 chip with 50W+50W+100W for my TV speakers, and it's awesome, great volume levels, and bass response, but I am wanting to upgrade to a little more wattage, what can I use that is just as good? I had recently purchased one off Aliexpress that was a XY-S350H 2 x 220W + 350W APP Control Bluetooth 5.1 TPA3251D2 and it totally sucks, no volume to it even cranked all the way up, and virtually zero bass response. Can you recommend something as good as the TPA3116?
Is their a good trick to getting a larger gauge wire between a board and the banana jacks when installing into a chassis permanently? The holes on the boards are so small... Or is a smaller gauge acceptable because it's carrying the signal over such a short distance? It seems odd to me to be connecting 12 gauge wire between the banana jacks and the speakers with such a small wire bridging the jack to the board.
@@JohnAudioTech you are so greatly appreciated. Thanks for the response. I noticed a .1 or so volt difference in my stereo boards output. You had recommended 1% resistors to get them outputting equally. What about a variable precision pot to replace the feedback resistor so the output can be balanced as well as the gain set with a single pot in each channel?
John, is this an Amazon purchase? The closest I've found so far is a DAJUNGUO brand that looks the same, has the same specs and parallel output instructions, but its ~$30 US. Still very inexpensive for the power you get. You'll spend just as much or more on a suitable power supply. Of course, I found plenty more similar amps, with different fans and build qualities. Such is the online marketplace.
@@JohnAudioTech Thanks. I have a guy on a DIY board who is looking for something to use with a sub he wants to build, and this came at a most opportune time. Hope you are doing well. Catch you on the flipflop.
Hey bro, I'm looking to build a 50 watt pedal board amp and I'm wondering if this would be a good board and if not what would you recommend... Also looking to go transformerless
Tda7498e gives out 160+160 watts stereo and 220 watt pbtl mode, as per datasheet. How come results of this test completely contradict???? Might be fake ic(tda7493 used on this board instead 7498e)
maybe someone can help me? I have a preamplifier in a small box with external power supply. The preamplifier card should have 15v-0v-15v To make it easier, I use a regular AC adapter and 2 diodes and 2 capacitors (volt doubles) but I get 50 Hz noise. when I plug out the power adapter and before the capacitors are discharged the noise disappears but there is still music for 2-3 seconds. why? does anyone have the answer to that? With current from capacitors, 50hz is completely gone I have tried large capacitors and several AC adapters without this having helped.
The reason sound persists for 2-3 secs after power is disconnected is that the PS capacitors hold a lot of charge and that continues to drive the amp. The 50 Hz hum comes from the mains AC, so when that is disconnected there is no more a source of 50 Hz.
@@gibbogle9486 Ebay. 273874382475 Yes i know this. Not what I was wondering. Why can I not get it noise free? Do power doubles with 2 diodes have this weakness? I use a 2x transformer and a bridge rectifier and 2 capacitors for my other preamplifier and amplifier card without getting this problem
@@ford1546 I am no expert, but I do know from experience that eliminating hum created by grounding circuitry can be tricky. A search online should throw up some pointers about this.
I have bought a number of different class-d amplifiers of this type and have no good experience! the sound quality of them is not so good either. A speaker never has a constant ohm. but varies with frequency. this type of class-d construction is very common. almost all are built this way. only good class-d I have bought are Hypex ucd and ncore. they do not respond to speaker load ohms. and has very good sound hypex has a patent on the method they use. cheap class-ab is almost always better than cheap class-d
@@buddhistsympathizer1136 Everyone knows that if you put a capacitor or coil in series with the speaker, they behave differently at different ohms. loads. The frequency is not exactly the same. I would much rather have bought the L20 class-ab or L12.2 class-ab than all the cheap class-d amplifiers if sound quality is a priority!
@@ford1546 Thanks for the reply, but I don't see how that addresses the question I asked. You say that the Class D amplifiers that you purchased 'do not respond to speaker load ohms' - Then how are they doing the output filtering? - It cannot be inductive or capacitive - So what is it then to achieve this?
@@buddhistsympathizer1136 An amplifier should be independent of ohms. load and give flat frequency at all ohmic loads. Many class-d cannot do this. This comes from how a cheap class-d is created and the output filter. almost all cheap class-d are made the same.
How can you say it's ok with all that horrible "wiggles" at high power, it looked ok at 80% of that. That is what I would use to say is the max TRUE power. ????????????
@@ferrumignis Which all have a DAC inside, why have them all and convert to analog to send to a class D amp to convert to analog again. The turntable is about all that is mainstream and analog. I have two FM radios here with entirely digital processing, one even has a toslink output. Be it good or bad according to the views of the listener if it is digital at source why keep converting and converting and converting?
@@pauledwards2817 You think a FM radio or a record player has a DAC inside it? Audio is an inherently analog signal, it can be digitised but it has to be converted back to analog at some point. You either have the DAC in the source or the amplifier, a Class D amp is still an analog system despite the output stage being driven by PWM.
Some of these new Class-D chips have Single-ended, Bridge-Tied-Load and Parallel-Bridge-Tied-Load configurations. The PBTL configurations can be a real pain to layout on PCB sometimes but my current favorite is a TPA3255 with an OPA1632 on the analog inputs to keep it from randomly hitting overcurrent protection at high power. The TPA chips with their protection circuits really love having perfectly balanced inputs for some reason and the OP1632 fully-differential op-amp works great for this.
how do I add the OPA1632 to the board? I really need this, mine cut out all the time
@@MojaFilm for that amp board you would need a special adapter board. I designed my own amp board so mine always come built in.
Hey John this is John from India 😁yaay I get to put the first comment. Thanks for the video meant to use this with a pair of 60w 6 ohm speakers
John I want to say thank you for making this video and the amplifier pop on sounds video you made convinced me to get the TDA7498e. I found it normally around 10USD, but with some deal hunting and waiting I got it down to about 5USD making it my cheapest amplifier purchase to date.
Currently testing it with a 19V 45w laptop charger with great results and its way better than any of my other Class D amp boards.
It has some slight differences to the one you have. Biggest one is that it has a green PCB. Other differences include a different style screw terminal that's smaller, pin header gain control instead of switches, no included nylon standoffs, and reversed RCA inputs (Red on Left and White on Right).
The reversed color RCA inputs tripped me up, but its ok since just a simple cable swap fixes that.
Its pretty quiet with no audio playing, no pop sounds on power on, and best of all it doesn't have the auto mute after being silent for a while that a lot of TPA3116 boards have that can make the first second or two after playing something again to be only silence which I find particularly annoying especially for video.
Thanks again.
Definitely would respect your professional opinion reviewing the TPA3255 used in some low-cost boards. Your suggestions over the last 5 years have led to great results so far.
Hi there John. I had also bought this amp some years ago and i have tested on 6ohm load diy 2way loudspeaker and i can say it sounded pretty good. Good bass response and overall good mid and high. But i guess it have some more detail in the highs in 8ohm.
I have tested the amp on around 30-32v dc on a linear powersupply. Also tested on a switched 360w 36v on 2x 4 ohm subwoofers with good punch resultts. Higly reccomended cheap amp dor dc psu or dual 12v battery in serie to 24v.
Thanks for the very informative and honest videos.
@Dumpfbrumsel i´m thinking of combining cllass d on the bass mid level and class abb tda7377 or tda7379 4ch brudge to 2ch .And they can work good around 12v to 18v or on a simple dc laptop adapter but that will be some mixed up power options
but 24v battery is a very good startpoint for many little powerful amp board like tda7492p simple 2ch amp or tpa3118d2 or tda3116d2. But my two favorites are tda7498e and tda7492p without the bt module.
Testing it only on a speaker is no good ters.
Some of the ones I have.
(TDA-7492)
(TPA-3116)
(L15D)
If you compare those with middle class,
clasd-ab amplifiers from the 70's 80's 90's so the vast majority of Class-ab have better sound than the new cheap class-d has.
Class-ab that does not have good sound
(Name NAP250 clone)
(Qad405 clone)
class-ab that HAS good sound
(L12-2)
(L15)
(L20)
If you are looking for a good class-d for a bass speaker then the L15D is a good amplifier for bass.
It measures 150w in 4 ohms.
with a large enough 50v-0v-50 power supply.
Watts reding on aliexpresd and ebay are in 10%THD and do not count.
I have NO idea what all you were saying. But at ~$20, I'm going to give it a shot.
Thanks for taking the time to make the review and tests.
Class D amps are interesting. Back in the 80's I used to work on ways to transmit audio using PWM and we used to listen to the Beegees, Beatles, Rolling Stones, etc as a test signal :-)
Just a note that most speakers past 10 khz the impedance tends to go up
Full range speakers, sure. It's a bit different for multiple speaker cabinets with passive crossover circuitry. It would ideally look pretty flat(but realistically would have bumps around the crossover frequencies).
Thanks John. Mouser has this as STEVAL-CCA044V1 listed at $76.25. What could the big difference be? The chip is only $6.39. There is another version rated @ 100w + 100w listed as a TDA7498TDR FOR $8.11.
Very sorry about Snickers passing. He was a very sweet cat. I too have lost many cats in the past and I still miss them all. We have 4 cats, 1 is hers 2 are ours and 1 is mine. All strays. God always keeps us plenty of companions around.
I looked up the STEVAL-CCA044V1. I'd guess they are likely using better parts. I still think about Snickers every so often. I hope to get another cat when things settle down in my life.
@@JohnAudioTech I've always found that a cat will show up when it's time. The last time I missed having a cat around I found the nicest tuxedo kitten running around the parking lot of my old job. She knew I wanted a buddy and found me.
@@bugdrvr That's my thinking as well. Snickers showed up at my parents' house. My parents once had a tux named Bo. If a cat could have a full personality, it was Bo.
Hi John, just got one, exactly like yours (Sanwu at the bottom of PCB, same brand of fan) negligible hissing (even very close to my ear) with Dell 20V/4.5 A (ADP-90FB revB) very nice sounding amplifier for $17.92 plus $3 shipping cost and $1.60 CA tax . Not bad at all.
Hi John this is a top class amp to me 👍the frequency response of my ears rolled off to 9khz a few years ago 😂
Mean
OK, my measurements on 4 Ohm load in parallel output - PBTL MONO mode (with jumpers J1 to J4 set to ON), clean output power like you measure it, just below fuzzies:
at 24V Ucc ..... Pout = 60,6W
at 27V Ucc ..... Pout = 70,2W
at 32V Ucc ..... Pout = 101,3W
at 36V Ucc ..... Pout = 135,2W
The distortion (checked with FFT of oscilloscope) is around 1%
I am very very impressed. I paid for it 14€.
(I need it for bass instrumental amp so roll of at HF doesn't bother me)
did you saw the topping pa5? its a tpa3255 based amp that blew every other one away, even ones that were like many many times more expensive in terms of distortion and noise . its not ebay china board priced tho.
Imagine that more money is more better 😂
I have been a long time viewer of this channel since 2018. I can send one in if you are interested, John. 😀
i once built a amp and used one of these modules, i hooked it up to my rectifier / cap bank and upon turning it on it blew the chip and traces around it. it did work before that.
I'm finding all these "higher wattage" TDA amps to be fairly noisy. The quietest ones I've found are the little blue "60watt" mono TDA3118 board.
I pre-ordered the Wuzhi/Sinilink 7498 amp last year, put it on 24v6A supply and it is still too loud in the Arizona heat! I Recommend most of the black boards, no matter the brand.
It's a rough old waveform into 4 ohms .... I think I'd prefer to listen to your JAT501 amp, John !
Right. JAT501 is sweet little angel.
Right. JAT501 is sweet little angel.
Thank you very much for the review it was very informative
If I want hiss I'll listen to one of my cassette decks using a Type One tape without Dolby NR. A-B amps for the win.😎
Those chееsy Chinа amps are for party speakers only. Class D itself _can_ sound better though. The additional complexity isn't really worth it for home HiFi as you don't need so much power at home in my opinion. For party or portable speakers class-D is quite good.
Properly made class D amps are amazing, I'm using 50W (25 with my 8 ohm speakers) ICE power I bought for like $100, it's pretty good and no hiss at all, I rarely listen at more than 40% loudness!
I've also heard some great three way speakers with an active crossover, and tri-amped - two 50W class D amps (for lows and mids), and a 50W AB amp for highs.
I have to admit that it sounded nicer and more powerful than exactly the same speakers with a single 400W amplifier and passive crossovers! It was "an upgrade" and all the parts together were cheaper than the 400W amplifier from before so it was pretty sick!
@@zlac
50asx2?
@@westelaudio943 Yes, a nice little amp. It's also very cheap when you buy just a module while big companies sell their amps with this exact module inside for thousands of dollars!
@@zlac
Definitely one of the better switching amp modules, compared to all this red board Сhina pridе stuff. And even a schematic is available (a luxury these days). I though about buying one but I don't really have use for it ATM and it's pretty costly.
I'm more into tube amps and 80s receivers for daily use.
Good review.
Bought 2 of them for a 2.1 setup but the second Amp that I set as bridge died in few weeks. Probably I got a fake one because the marking on the PCB is XINRUI, unlike yours marked SANWU. Plus mine have the fan always on and found out that the supposed to be thermistor was replaced with just ordinary resistor.
you get the hiss when you connect the DC power supply from the mains, if you connect a battery you would have no noise, for a bluetooth portable speaker this would be fine
Hi John, heard that amp was pretty good.
Thanks John for the review. Im planning to buy that, and good thing i watched your video. More power to your channel...
Short to bride is for mono PBTL mode ( Parallel Bridge Tied Mode )
Damn, where were these in 95 when i started playing guitar?
Awesome review!..
For $20 in India you can easily get class AB that can deliver 100 watt per channel @0.1 distortion .
do you have alink for purchase
Do Indonesia amplifier in video only $8.75😂
Thanks for review where do you buy these boards? I am looking for a good quality 200w per channel that can drive 4ohm loads comfortably.
Nice review. I wish these class D boards would fix the hiss issue. For me, it's a dealbreaker.
Just get older... and you won't notice it.
Hey John, I ordered a simple 36V 5A power supply "brick" for this. You were saying the 32 volts setting would make the unit last longer. Is there an easy way to just keep the input turned down or something to help if I still use the 36V supply?
many higher watt cheap class-d use 2 ic. 4 channels and btrl down to 2 channels.
L15D is a decent amplifier that I have measured to 150w in 4 ohms
Hi John thanks for your time and good info. I am on a budget and Iam trying to build a rear channel amp for my bus. How does this amp compare to the tda7293 as far as sound reproduction is concerned. I would use a boost converter to power the amp. I would be using apair of 6.5 and a tweeter per channel. Based on the cost to build this a similar amp bought would be over $100. Thanks any input would be appreciated.
Just buy a car amp... cheaper, and designed for the job.
Does anyone know if the left hand right channels have a high pass filter?? Is so, what frequency
You make it back just from the pure joy that you get dealing with us alone, haha.
Bridging strapping btl what ever you want to call it doesn't let you lower the impedance I have no idea why they say that the two channels see half the final load so you actually need to run it at higher impedance when strapped
He did explain this, the "BTL" label on the PCB is incorrect. The outputs are already bridged, the jumpers allow the two BTL outputs to be connected in parallel which doubles the current capacity of the combined output and allows lower impedance loads. The trade-off being you now have a mono amplifier so you'll need two of them for stereo.
Very professional👍
Hi sir, pls video for btl this amplifier - I wanna drive subwoofer speaker for car audio 🙏
This board output filter is fine for 4~8 ohm loads ??
Thank You John.
The hiss maybe attenuated with a quiter PSU ?
No. It's all from the amplifier.
@@JohnAudioTech did you listen to it with the input shorted?
@@davidkclayton I had the volume control all the way down which is the same.
@@JohnAudioTech 😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣💯
Posso alimentarlo con batteria litio da 42v?
This is what is in the fosi bt30c i believe
Hey John, is it possible to wire up several of these mini amplifiers in series and say triple the output…….safely?? And if so what sort of power supply? Thanks.
Not really a practical way of doing this. They are already bridged for maximum power at a given supply voltage. I'd go for something that can take a 50v supply if you need more power.
Ican cannect valume ,bass ,trabel control bord. Please reply
You are using RCA to 3.5mm?
tnx for sharing sir john..
How to add Bass , Treble , Volume , control with this board
Very interesting video, I have the same Tda7498e amplifier but I use a 32v 5A power supply. The fan on mine never turned on but I was also never able to turn the volume to maximum and I usually have the volume at less than half because if it was at maximum volume it would be unbearable, is it the reason why the fan doesn't turn on and the chip doesn't heat up enough to turn it on?
I have a Technics SB-EX3 pair of speakers, they have 250W and 4 Ohm connected to this amplifier and the sound looks decent to me and without visible distortion but do you think this amplifier is more suitable for speakers of 8 Ohm load?
12-15v 3-5 A for 4 oms
U think 🤔 you might need to revisit the 👀 mini amps again they have more features nowadays
great video, I am currently using a 2.1 Bluetooth amp with the tpa3116 chip with 50W+50W+100W for my TV speakers, and it's awesome, great volume levels, and bass response, but I am wanting to upgrade to a little more wattage, what can I use that is just as good? I had recently purchased one off Aliexpress that was a XY-S350H 2 x 220W + 350W APP Control Bluetooth 5.1 TPA3251D2 and it totally sucks, no volume to it even cranked all the way up, and virtually zero bass response. Can you recommend something as good as the TPA3116?
Try to sound check so they know how powerfull the amplifier is. More on computation and explanation but the amplifier keep silent
The chip is a STMicros.
Is their a good trick to getting a larger gauge wire between a board and the banana jacks when installing into a chassis permanently? The holes on the boards are so small... Or is a smaller gauge acceptable because it's carrying the signal over such a short distance? It seems odd to me to be connecting 12 gauge wire between the banana jacks and the speakers with such a small wire bridging the jack to the board.
16 gauge is fine for running a few inches inside a case.
@@JohnAudioTech you are so greatly appreciated. Thanks for the response. I noticed a .1 or so volt difference in my stereo boards output. You had recommended 1% resistors to get them outputting equally. What about a variable precision pot to replace the feedback resistor so the output can be balanced as well as the gain set with a single pot in each channel?
Buy a Pin Crimping set. By far the best way to terminate stranded wire prior to soldering or putting into a screw terminal.
I need an amp for bass guitar. 300 W RMS and more with flat response and low distortion. Any recommendation?
Marshall.
John, is this an Amazon purchase? The closest I've found so far is a DAJUNGUO brand that looks the same, has the same specs and parallel output instructions, but its ~$30 US. Still very inexpensive for the power you get. You'll spend just as much or more on a suitable power supply.
Of course, I found plenty more similar amps, with different fans and build qualities. Such is the online marketplace.
I bought it from ebay seller czb6721960. Listed for $21.44. It was on my watch list for a couple days and they offered a discount for $19-something.
@@JohnAudioTech Thanks. I have a guy on a DIY board who is looking for something to use with a sub he wants to build, and this came at a most opportune time.
Hope you are doing well. Catch you on the flipflop.
160W Duel channel Class D amplifier.
W0w after years of garbage recommendations utub finally offered up a good channel!
SUBBED
Hey bro, I'm looking to build a 50 watt pedal board amp and I'm wondering if this would be a good board and if not what would you recommend... Also looking to go transformerless
cool video, thanks.
Wiil a 24v 10a significantly improve sound quality in tda7498 compare to 24v 5a?
No. 5 amps should be plenty at 24 volts with 4 ohm or higher speakers.
@@JohnAudioTech i am running 8 ohm 6.5 inch speakers 90 watt 89db with 8 ohm tweeter... bass is good but little on lower side treble is very good.
People please send boards to John if you want to review.
Tda7498e gives out 160+160 watts stereo and 220 watt pbtl mode, as per datasheet. How come results of this test completely contradict????
Might be fake ic(tda7493 used on this board instead 7498e)
They are talking of 10% THD, which is unacceptable.
We are measuring at 1% Thats why.
maybe someone can help me?
I have a preamplifier in a small box with external power supply. The preamplifier card should have 15v-0v-15v
To make it easier, I use a regular AC adapter and 2 diodes and 2 capacitors (volt doubles) but I get 50 Hz noise. when I plug out the power adapter and before the capacitors are discharged the noise disappears but there is still music for 2-3 seconds. why? does anyone have the answer to that? With current from capacitors, 50hz is completely gone
I have tried large capacitors and several AC adapters without this having helped.
The reason sound persists for 2-3 secs after power is disconnected is that the PS capacitors hold a lot of charge and that continues to drive the amp. The 50 Hz hum comes from the mains AC, so when that is disconnected there is no more a source of 50 Hz.
@@gibbogle9486
Ebay. 273874382475
Yes i know this. Not what I was wondering. Why can I not get it noise free? Do power doubles with 2 diodes have this weakness? I use a 2x transformer and a bridge rectifier and 2 capacitors for my other preamplifier and amplifier card without getting this problem
@@ford1546 I am no expert, but I do know from experience that eliminating hum created by grounding circuitry can be tricky. A search online should throw up some pointers about this.
101.9W per channel if you test 1 channel, what about testing both simultaneously?
Should be about the same depending on your power supply. Mine can't handle the current of both channels.
@@JohnAudioTech ok, thanks
160 watts 10%THD so 40 watts RMS
Clean 60watt at 8 ohm
36v thd 1℅...125?...
Now I’ve got that UA-cam-safe melody stuck in my head. Help!!
Saludos desde Bolivia
just found your channel........great job just sub'ed keep it up.....find a kit and send 2 u.....later
I have bought a number of different class-d amplifiers of this type and have no good experience! the sound quality of them is not so good either. A speaker never has a constant ohm. but varies with frequency. this type of class-d construction is very common. almost all are built this way.
only good class-d I have bought are Hypex ucd and ncore. they do not respond to speaker load ohms. and has very good sound
hypex has a patent on the method they use.
cheap class-ab is almost always better than cheap class-d
If this is the case (they do not respond to varying speaker impedance across frequencies) I wonder what they use for output filtering then?
@@buddhistsympathizer1136 Everyone knows that if you put a capacitor or coil in series with the speaker, they behave differently at different ohms. loads. The frequency is not exactly the same. I would much rather have bought the L20 class-ab or L12.2 class-ab than all the cheap class-d amplifiers if sound quality is a priority!
@@ford1546 Thanks for the reply, but I don't see how that addresses the question I asked.
You say that the Class D amplifiers that you purchased 'do not respond to speaker load ohms' - Then how are they doing the output filtering? - It cannot be inductive or capacitive - So what is it then to achieve this?
@@buddhistsympathizer1136
An amplifier should be independent of ohms. load and give flat frequency at all ohmic loads.
Many class-d cannot do this.
This comes from how a cheap
class-d is created and the output filter. almost all cheap class-d are made the same.
@@buddhistsympathizer1136 Another thing is that many class-d have a slightly colder sound type which is common for clasd-d
8 ohm loads or old people...
1 how old are you?
2 your voice is like Tobey Maguire
How can you say it's ok with all that horrible "wiggles" at high power, it looked ok at 80% of that. That is what I would use to say is the max TRUE power. ????????????
Why do we still have class D amplifiers with analog inputs when most audio is digital!
Because most sources have analog outputs, not all have digital.
@@ferrumignis Which all have a DAC inside, why have them all and convert to analog to send to a class D amp to convert to analog again. The turntable is about all that is mainstream and analog. I have two FM radios here with entirely digital processing, one even has a toslink output. Be it good or bad according to the views of the listener if it is digital at source why keep converting and converting and converting?
@@pauledwards2817 - Class D amps aren't really digital at all. They use pulse width modulation, and that is not digital like a Toslink.
Because the D in Class D doesn't mean digital. It's basically Amplifier Class Four.
@@pauledwards2817 You think a FM radio or a record player has a DAC inside it?
Audio is an inherently analog signal, it can be digitised but it has to be converted back to analog at some point. You either have the DAC in the source or the amplifier, a Class D amp is still an analog system despite the output stage being driven by PWM.
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