Using PlusNuts: L-track Install - DIY Sprinter Camper Van
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- Опубліковано 29 кві 2018
- This video shows how I used PlusNuts to install Airline (L-track) on the sidewall of my van. L-track is great for tying down gear or for supporting bed framing. Products used: go to ourkaravan.com and click on "store" in the upper right corner.
If the store does not work, here are the direct product links:
Pre-drilled L-track: amzn.to/2HkaupS
If you want L-track that is not drilled, you can buy it here: www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/He...
Countersink bit: amzn.to/2Kp4Rr5
Cap Screws: www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-20-Flat-...
PlusNuts: amzn.to/36k4qe5
Website: ourkaravan.com
Instagram: our.karavan
Music:
Fortythr33 - Bay Breeze: / bay-breeze-original-mix
Note: This video contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. Please know we only promote products we actually use and believe in. - Авто та транспорт
Perfect job!!! Love the magnet idea and stop collar too.
Always a pleasure to watch you work. There is something about high speed hammering that just cracks me up, every time!
Yes!!! New vid! Great job as usual!
thank you for this video! Solid work!
Perfecto as always. Thanks for all the wise hints (magnet to grab shavings, the brace to hold the bar level...)
Great video and great work. Keep it up! Thank you!
Yeah good work - it certainly is a trick to get the holes lined up for Rivnuts/Plusnuts. I have 2 tricks:
- Install the rivnuts and put a bolt in them all that pokes out a bit. The press the object onto it so it leaves an imprint for the positions to drill. If the object isn't soft enough, put some insulation tape or thin foam on roughly where the bolt should be, and it will leave an impression of the bolt. This works well when you already have the holes in place on the wall.
- Clamp the item in place as you did in this video, and drill a pilot hole for both the object and the wall.
- For big heavy items with multiple holes, I do the 2 ends first to hold it in place, then drill out the rest.
It so great to watch a craftsman at work.
Excellent! Good video
Learned a ton from watching this video; Thank you. Wow! L-track is so versatile in van support & storage.
It is great stuff, and thank you!
Plan to use both of these also in my build, so appreciate the magnet idea to catch drill shavings and prevent rust! I will use them vertical though, to make the bed platform adjustable height... Since I'll be putting a lot of the Rivnuts in, glad I have the rivet style insertion tool as the wrench alternative makes the $20 Harbor Freight nutsetter look like the much faster way to go...
I think the tool is a good way to go if using a lot of plusnuts/rivnuts. Other than the L-track install I only have a few others in the van.
Thanks for the positive feedback, always appreciated!
Great work, as usual. Really like that you emphasized using a stop collar. Also that you painted the bare edges of the holes.
The use of magnets to catch some shavings from drilling is simple genius!
I agree with the magnets. I use this trick all the time. One hint, wrap your magnet in plastic. It makes cleaning off the metal shavings easier and less likely to get those pesky slivers in you.
Great vids, keep them coming!
Really not genius, just another means of maintaining cleanliness... a piece of tape would do!
@@SuperSpecialty Some people never learned the lesson from their mother: If you don't have anything nice to say...
@@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt You’re right, also taught to tell the truth & to be gentle for “they know not what they do”!
@@SuperSpecialty Rather than try to justify an uncalled for comment, simply delete it.
Keep the tips coming I'm getting great information from your videos. I like the precision of everything you do. Thanks
Hi Ken. More great work! I have used a lot of Plus nuts in my Sprinter build, specifically 3/8 -16. They work great but you must have the hole center perfect. I guess I have to step up my game and get a magnet. There are metal chips everywhere. Vacuum daily. RB Components doesn't use Plus Nuts installed in factory sheetmetal because of tear out. They actually weld in heavier gauge metal to bolt into. Metal works is heavy duty but super strong. I have the equipment and skill to do the same but I just could bring myself to welding on my new Sprinter. I think Plus nuts will work because I used extra.????
Haha love how it ended up at night time, it always does... this shit takes sooooo long! I did the same thing but put 5mm of foam in between the L-track and van metal in hopes to eliminate some of the thermal bridging. Love how you used the magnet too, I wish I knew about that little trick a few weeks back! I wonder if I could drag a big magnet down the outside of my lower to try search for any that may have fallen down.. Great work as always :)
How did it work with the 5mm foam between L-track and metal wall?
Thanks for this video
I’m installing rivnuts through a Duratherm liner and it’s a pain in the ass
several rivnuts have failed. I see others on Amazon rivnut reviews complaining of the same thing
I think plus nuts are probably superior and will be trying them out next
I’d make a video on my install but I’m not much of a UA-camr
for anyone thinking to do this install the best method seems to be to drill the L track directly onto the metal wall just like in this video. then partially unscrew the screws, only maybe 1/4”. then push the Duratherm wall up against the screws so that the screws make an indentation on the foil backing of the Duratherm walls. then drill through those indentations
these holes should more or less line up with the plus nuts/rivnuts. You can always drill a larger diameter hole through the Duratherm walls and it won’t show as the L track will cover it up
sorry for the spiel on your video but hopefully this helps someone who was in my predicament!
Thanks, as always, for the great videos! For your plus nuts, it seems like sometimes you use 1/4-20, and sometimes 5/16-18. If that's correct, can you share why? Are the existing holes in the Sprinter frame different sizes? Similarly, sometimes I see references to the .020-.280 grip range and sometimes .280 - .5. I'm about to purchase some plus nuts for my own build and I am curious which I should purchase? Thanks, in advance, for any help you can provide!
5 years after the party started but better late than never -
When using magnets to catch filings put them in a torn square of a plastic bag. Then you can remove the shavings by just taking the magnet out of the bag.
Unless they get too hot. Then the bag melts and you make a mess.
Brilliant! 👍👍👍👍
Glad you liked it!
Hey.....love your vids.
Question, what length cap screws did you end up using for this project..
Thanks!
Nice video. Thanks. These fixings are only as strong as the substrate...ie.. the thin sheet metal. If you absolutely can't reinforce with thicker steel (which is best and does not require welding just holding in place behind the sheet during fit) then sika fix along the whole length as well as riv nuts. Riv nuts alone tear out under stress. Happy travels everyone. John
Agreed, I wouldn't tie down a 1,200 lb angry steer in the back of my van, but for affixing portable tables and camping stuff, it's great.
@@ourkaravan I really like your build and your video skills so please don't take my feedback as criticism. I've used riv nuts and seen them fail. When building a vehicle interior it's not just about what you would normally tie down there. We need to think like the vehicle manufacturers do. ...I. e. What happens in an accident including a vehicle roll over ? Huge forces are at play in these situations. Its no use thinking it won't happen to you. (I'm not suggesting you personally think that way but lots of people do ) Build as strong as possible. Replace riv nuts with nut and bolt if access allows. Use rear strengthening bars either way. If it doesn't absolutely need to be easily removable then make it absolutely immovable. A 30lb bed frame coming at the back of your heads is no joke. I know I'm coming across as a killjoy here but I see a lot of road traffic accidents in my daily work. The saddest outcomes are those that would have been easily prevented. Best wishes. John
super video, very helpful. wondering if you can provide some detail about the tools you used to tighten the plusnuts down? what is that besides the two box wrenchs?
thank you!
Ken, thanks for going the extra mile in your sharing. Question for you. I have seen some use steel or aluminum bracing in their building, creating a mesh like structure, then attaching the L-track and other items to the bracing. Did you look into the bracing option? Any reason why you did not go in that direction (if you looked into it)? Thx in advance!
Hi, I’m having trouble picturing the mesh like structure. Can you expand on your description of it?
I believe you and Greg Virgoe .in uk , should get together to build a camper conversation it would be awesome ,total perfection and all us minions could learn how it done I give you both 4stars out of five to get five stars it has to be factory made. I’m not even a one star but I’m learning from you to guys ,many thanks for putting all this information out there for us to see Best regards Mike....uk
I totally agree, Kenetube and Greg Virgoe are the two best UA-cam channels for Sprinter van builds.
Yeah, because factory made is better then custom 🤥
Great video! Only complaint is that i had to turn up to hear you and then the music parts are deafening.
kenetube I've learned a lot from you and in my opinion, your content is the easiest and clearest on ytube. You're doing great 👍
Your channel is such a great resource for DIY'ers like me who are considering their own build, thank you for the content! This question is a little off topic and I apologize if you've already answered this question in a previous comment. I have been looking closely at honeycomb composite panels for interior construction to help save weight. I would love to hear your opinion on this material and if you think it would be viable for a camper build? Do you have any direct experience with it? Did you consider it before deciding on 80/20? Thanks!
Thanks for the reply. I was researching specifically what ship/boat builders use for yachts etc. Its been difficult since many of the companies seem to only sell wholesale. There are two that appear to sell retail that I've found. Singcore and Rhinokore are two that may be options. They claim their panels are a third the weight of plywood and stronger. My concern is being able to join the cut pieces together. I will keep looking at this idea. Thanks!
Hi Ken great informative videos. I was very impressed with how you maintained a thermal break with the L track on one side of the van and hope to use that method on my next build, but I don't understand why you have not worried about it with the airline track on the otherside of the van. In freezing conditions I have seen screw heads connected to the outside body be a big condensation problem, let alone a hole airline track.
Hi, I've made various attempts at using thermal breaks but I'm just not certain it makes a big difference. I've "heard" it does, which is why I've experimented with it, but I can't say I notice a significant difference between the stuff that is isolated and the stuff that is not.
I worry about the same as my Sprinter has airline tracks installed from the factory already without a termal break. I think I will cover at least parts of the tracks with plastic covers similar to these www.suer.de/en/Load-securing-DIN-and-standard-parts/Mechanical-load-securing/Anchor-tracks/Cover-strip-for-Airline-anchor-tracks-black.html to minimize the open area.
That works too.
Thank you for your helpful videos! My husband and I are planning out our van build and having a debate about what to use...he wants to put upper rails in the van for hanging cabinets. I see people using L-track/airline track, but he sees that Superstrut is cheap and available at Lowes. Why did you pick L-track instead of Superstrut (apart from all those ugly holes!).
Hi Natasha, I used a combination of mounting methods. The L-track seen in this video was mainly to support the top of the lower wall panel and the bottom of the upper wall panel, and to provide a place to tie down cargo. But for my actual upper cabinets, I used 80/20 extruded aluminum. I have a video on building the uppers. I then bolted the 80/20 framing to that to frame-out my cabinets. I'm not sure how I would build them with uni-strut but anything is possible. Perhaps if you cover the uni-strut with full overlap-doors and drawers like I did, perhaps you wouldn't see the holes?
You do beautiful work and you make great videos. Is painting the steel enough to prevent galvanic corrosion in this application?
Galvanic corrosion occurs when one metal corrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another in the presence of an electrolyte. The last few words being key. In short, use of the proper fasteners in an RV application should not result in galvanic corrosion. It would be better to not drill any holes, but my van would serve no use to me as a bare van. Use of zinc fasteners helps, particularly when attaching aluminum structures (like the 80/20 I use) to steel of the body.
Thanks for the complement!
Thank you for clarifying that.
Don't the plusnuts damage the paintwork around the hole on the inside when they expand?
What length cap screws did you use to fasten the L-track?
I have an L-track in the floor of my Toyota Hiace and I want to fix a long piece of 2x2 to it as part of my bed frame. What is the best method for fixing it? Thanks
Nice job! Thanks for sharing, really enjoy your content!
Thank you, I always appreciate the comment!
Great video. Can you tell me where I can purchase that tool that you used to set the plusnuts? Thanks you.
I did a quick look and the retailer that was selling the plusnuts with the simple tool does not seem to have the product in stock right now. You may want to check ebay and see if someone is selling the tool separately? It's just a bolt, washer and a spacer, but it's handy for sure.
such an educational video. I was amazed by your website and how easy was to find related information. I have been searching to find some references in using extrusion aluminium in a camper van project and your website and videos answer many of my questions. I can easily see there is an engineering mind behind all the designs.
Thank you Mohammad, I appreciate the words of encouragement!
what happed to the product links that were there just yesterday? getting ready to order those L tracks from US Cargo...
thank you for the awesome videos on your Sprinter conversion. Very helpful!
Hi, the links are in the description below the video. I'll link it here: amzn.to/3IwRYZL
Glad you found it helpful! -Ken
Great video. What bolt length did you use? What drill bit size did you use to drill into the L-Track?
I used 1" bolts...there's a link in my store page here: kit.co/ourkaravan/wall-panels-headliner-shelf-l-track
I can't remember exactly on the drill bit, but considering it's a 1/4" bolt I probably used one size up to give a little wiggle-room.
I just installed a number of these for L-track and I can say with 100% certainty that there is NO NEED for a special installation tool. Some of the dedicated tools actually do an inferior job. A grade 8 bolt, oversized nut and wrench, and a couple washers combined with a drill or bit driver works perfectly. These things are really soft and I set most with a stainless screw right through the L-track. Just don't over-do it.
I agree, I think the install tool comes into play if you have a lot of them to install. I did not, and the "tool" my plus nuts came with was about as basic as the setup you describe. Thanks for the comment.
I really think the rivet-gun style tools area kind of a scam. They are an overly complicated way to do a simple job. They are kind of primitive compared to using power tools, and look like a lot more work. Some guys say they also have a tendency to sett he plus nuts on an angle.
Good to know, now I don’t feel like a fool for not buying one.
Wow, great video! I didn't even know about plus nuts. Is the sheet metal thick enough for these to be the full strength 5.4kn? Also did you use/drill out those pre-existing holes or did you add some?
Thank you!
Good job. Should you use lock washers? If not, have they come loose with the vibration? Thanks
The lock washers wouldn't allow you to countersink the bolts, and then the attachments wouldn't slide the length of the track. I haven't had one come loose in 4.5 years, and our van is always off-road.
Hi, nice work, I appreciate that you shared. Could you help me where did you get those fixing bolts what you put into Ltrack? I mean those golden colour at the end of video (and also end of Ltrack, next to the rear door) thanks a lot!
kenetube Unfortunately not. I'm referring to those one what you put to the Ltrack anywhere on the track, than you can fix things to the Ltrack. I checked the link, but it's not included. Thanks in advance!
kenetube it's visible, just before the video fade out.
kenetube thanks a lot! :)
Hi. Thanks for posting these videos! May I ask, which plusnut tool did you use? I have a tacklife rivnut tool and I'm having a heck of a time trying to get plusnuts to work with it. Using the washer trick that others have posted and it not happening. Anyway - if you can share which tool I'd really appreciate it - I'm installing 1/4-20 plusnuts.
kenetube thanks! I've resorted to using a carriage bolt and k nut as mentioned by the faroutride website. Plus nuts that didn't crimp seem pretty easy to fix using this method but it's time consuming.
How much weight are these tracks intended to hold? Also are they only intended to hold weight between two walls, like you have, or can I hang two of them in parallel from a wall to hang my generator box on the outside of the van?
kenetube I'll keep researching. Thank you for getting back to me.
Hi Ken. Great work! Do you remember which size bit you used for the initial hole in the l track? I’m guessing you used 1/4” 20 plusnuts and wondering if you used a 1/4” bit or 5/16” bit?
I *think* the spec bit for a 1/4-20 plus nut is 23/64", however I used an 11/32" bit and it worked great. Very slightly smaller, which required a light tap of the plusnut with a rubber mallet, but this helps reduce the chance of getting a spinning plusnut.
Thanks for getting back Ken. In the video it appears to be 5/16” bit and your links (which I’ve been using) are for 1/4” plusnuts and bolts. Did you use 5/16” plusnuts or 1/4” plusnuts?
@@tylerschmuckle8049 In the near future I plan to reorganize the store to make it easier to navigate. I definitely used 1/4-20 plus nuts here. I used the 5/16-18 plusnuts to hang my overhead cabinets. The body size is 0.384". The stated hole size is 0.386 to 0.391 per this: www.rivetsonline.com/documents/products/crossnuts.pdf Be sure to use page 4 referencing the pre-bulbed version. 3/8" is 0.375" and 25/64" is 0.391". I'd go 3/8" and either tap them in or touch with a hole file. Check my math.
hey ken. rivnuts or plusnuts? can you use the same tool? ive got the astro 1442 that is for rivnuts.
I have never used rivnuts. The fact that you have the tool, I'm thinking why not?
Any idea what these would hold for weight? Looking to put some of these in my van to string up a hammock.
I am fairly confident it would. I'm sure someone here can provide the fastener pull out strength numbers...
Zen Master Ken, is there a particular reason you went with L-track over 80/20 for this application? I thought you might try to make this rail consistent with the rest of your van. I'm debating between L-track and 80/20 for main horizontal rails on both sides of my van in order to have versatility for cabinets, bed platform, cargo tie down points. I'm leaning toward 80/20 because it's more versatile for cabinet builds. I'm not seeing a reason NOT to use it, which is why I'm curious about your decision to use L-track. Thanks.
Good question, and one I have thought about too. I put the L-track there to use to tie down gear (camp table etc) and it seemed like the easiest thing to reorient for different items, but I could have achieved the same thing with 80/20 with carriage bolts sliding the entire length. The only possible advantage I can think of with the L-track is mine is flanged, which means my upper and lower wall panels can sandwich under the lip of it. Otherwise, there are good arguments to be made for just using 80/20.
What anticorrosion treatment did you apply to the sheet metal after you drilled the holes? I didn't see it in the item list.
Quick question what are you using to file out the holes? Thanks
Are you referring to the countersink hole I put in the track so the head of the bolt is flush?
Great video. Do you have any information about how you attached the bed rails above the L track?
Hi Blake, I don't have a high-mount bed in my van. My seat folds into a bed. That said, I left the wall panels open where bed panels would go should I decide to ever go that route.
Would you use this for an elevated bed platform? Have you made one of those already? Would love to see you build one.
I don't have an elevated bed in my van (my seat folds to a bed), but I think there is plenty of support there to do that.
Don’t need music or to watch mundane tasks such as drilling etc., or you not wearing any eye protection! Other than that thanks for sharing. All, what is important to us is your neat idea & the final outcome
Did you also attach the 8020 cabinetry to the l-track?
I did not since my L track is on the other side of the van, but you certainly can.
Maybe could be useful: if you wrap the magnet in A4 paper or something like that, you won't need to be cleaning up the magnet afterwards, you just unwrap the paper and throw away the paper with the shavings inside it.
Good suggestion
Hey Ken, what kind of paint are you using to protect metal from corroding?
Hi, I’ve just been using a small pint of Rustoleum oil based paint. I typically apply with a small hobby paintbrush.
@@ourkaravan Thanks...Your channel is of great help! Keep it up!!
What type of paint is that you use around drilled holes?
I just used an oil-based rustoleum paint from the big box store. Pint-size, I believe.
So here's what's probably a dumb question, since I don't think anyone's asked it in the five years since this video was made. There's a row of pre-drilled holes, running north-south, just beneath the ltrack that you installed. Why didn't you just mount the ltract to the wall using these pre-drilled holes (with rivnuts, plusnuts, whatever)? That would save you the burden (and risk) associated with drilling new holes. Is it just that you needed your ltrack a few inches higher than the height of these pre-drilled holes?
Not a dumb question at all. My recollection is those holes were larger than the plusnuts I was using. -Ken
@@ourkaravan Ah, well that certainly makes sense. Thanks!
What type of nuts did use in plusnuts (6:35mint )
I used these plus nuts: amzn.to/3IzCDt0
seems like plusnuts are the same thing as rivnuts, correct?
Same idea, different execution. Rivnuts mushroom out while a plus nut spreads to form a plus pattern, which offers higher pull put strength. What I prefer about plusnuts is they grab the steel more and are less likely to spin on you.
The link for the plus nuts is no longer working. I don't suppose you know a supplier who sell m8 size plus nuts and can ship to Ireland? :D
I would try eBay. Otherwise I'm not sure, but wish you luck! (The Amazon link works when the item is in stock, but it's often out of stock, unfortunately.)
@@ourkaravan Thanks, did you mean the ebay link works when they are in stock? I don't see an amazon link for plus nuts..
Yes sorry I meant eBay
Found them, here you go: amzn.to/3lI9Y8v
@@ourkaravan ah thanks a lot! That link was sending me to amazon.co.uk, and it was saying there were no results, but then on changing the .co.uk to .com, it showed me what you were linking to. Now I just have to figure out what size matches a M8, I can't get my head around the US sizing system haha.
PlusNuts are the best way to go or RivNuts?
I have never tried rivnuts, but the plusnuts have worked great for me. They are less like to spin because of how they bite the backside of the sheetmetal vs the rivnuts, which is why I went with them.
@@ourkaravan awesome, thank you! Where are you getting them and that tool?
@@lostgriz I've been buying them on ebay but I have not been able to find them with the handy install tool. If you find a source for it please let me know!
@@ourkaravan will do. Thank you for the help as usual!!
@@lostgriz You're welcome!
..drilling out the holes in the van with the pre-drilled rail in place
ua-cam.com/video/kGw0KxQvdX0/v-deo.htmlm12s
I would suggest use the Big Gator drill guide to drill in a STRAIGHT line
Ken I guess you are cling Rivnutta pus nut? I was able to purchase a rivnutt tool on Amazon to do this install, Thanks
I threw that horrible supplied tool away and bought a proper rivnut tool for $50. Best money I ever spent.
I definitely recommend the tool if you have a lot of plusnuts to set. I think I only have fifteen in my entire build.